Bro, as a fellow car guy you’ve help me so damn much. Your videos are clear with communication, descriptions and resolutions. Hope this helps back some. BrakeKleen for life lol.
I have a 2010 Honda CR-V with a small leak and I feel like I just want to sell it to fix the problem! BUT used cars are pricey. It’s cheaper to just install new OEM Honda parts. I now need to buy a car lift. Lol.
Eric, not only do I learn a tremendous amount of useful info from your videos, I also find great entertainment in them. Case in point, I paused this video for a moment and came back to you making a facial expression that I found quite amusing. Educational, personable and entertaining. You are the king, man 🤘
You are spot on with your observation that a standing EVAP code can mask something more serious. One of my dinosaurmobiles routinely sets a P0442 and lights up the CEL, usually at around the 3/4 tank level as soon as the vehicle goes into closed loop. So whenever it does, I check that out and as long as P0442 is the only code listed I just clear it and get on with my life. I only put 1200-1500 miles a year on the car and chasing down some intermittent EVAP leak is not in my lifeplan.
So To anyone who watched this video and aplauds this great video, this was misdiagnosed!! The cvs is a normally opened solinoid.. So when he thinks he is turning it on with his bi directional tool he is actually shutting it off.. That is why he thought that he got a bad part. His words "solinoid came partially opened" The cvs is open the ECU controls the ground to close the valve and cut off vapor.. Obviously this guy never even realized he diagnosed this incorrectly or he would have updated it..
I agree and he also mis-identified the by pass valve for the vent valve in the beginning of the video when he was activating them. Still, he eventually got them correctly identified and demonstrated what techs are up against between the amount of equipment, needed, the time spent diagnosing and accessing and parts quality.
As a Honda tech for 20 years, the Canister vent shut solenoid valve, it is normally open (key off) when the computer commands the solenoid 'on' that would make the valve 'closed'
I'll add to that, when testing too much pressure builds up with valve closed, which over powers the spring that normally opens and holds it open. most likely the reason for it not clicking at video end.
@@throttlebottle5906 applying the smoke through the vent valve port should go in the right direction and show the difference in flow action when opening and closing the valve then.
@@dubmob151 the vent valve is designed to hold against negative pressure of a certain range. positive pressure in the atmospheric vent port may throw it way off. depending on design. even if you mean upstream of the vent valve, in which over pressure can keep it forced closed.( very cold fuel into very warm climate, or vice versa and suck it open. flawed junk is flawed junk and that is 96%+ of all vehicles and everything today! zero real world/field testing and faksde claims of durabiity backed by "up-sped" lab testing, which claima it's all great and stable for the next 100+ years... 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@throttlebottle5906 the valve should have been open from the start with no power applied but it showed no evidence of flow right after installation. It would have required a sudden burst of overpressure to lock up the valve and close it, which the smoke machine wouldn't be capable of with its low flow. Seems like the valve might not have been working properly and was stuck closed, which may not trigger the leak code but cause other issues.
My 67 Dodge D200 is probably 70% Mercedes-Benz wiring harness reworked...... that's one thing I've always admired under the hood of German vehicles: rarely will you spot inadequately wrapped wire or brittle connectors. Maybe it's just relativity. The bulkhead connectors of older Dodge vehicles make me think of using a fork and toaster as a conductor, though that would probably be safer!
I have a 2004 Honda Civic EX with a P1457. I was contemplating whether I could do this by myself, but after watching this video and discovering I could be dealing with rusted bolts, possible leaks from multiple different parts, and fume exposure. I have decided not to proceed with the repair myself. Thank You for the informative video.
This really helped especially with mental preparation and being careful. I used a one foot needle-nose plier on the tiny clamps, which possibly gave me extra leverage and visibility -- also wiggling up and down so the clamp ring gets some movement. Thank you for also putting everything back so I do this the right way. Great video!!
I had a P1457 on my 1999 Acura Integra GSR a few times recently. Once was the EVAP cannister purge solenoid wiring being so corroded that working in the engine bay, I totally severed the wires just by bumping into it with tools/hands/parts removal. So I redid the wiring on that. It was a difficult area to reach so I must've not gotten the most solid connection, so when I was rebuilding my engine and transmission later I must've severed the wire again (tugging it with parts or tools). I bought an entirely new pigtail connector and wired it in (same as the one redone in the video, coincidentally haha). Yet the issue still came back, but this time it was a p1456 instead of p1457. I tested a few solenoids/valves with 12v power and then decided that because it was a p1456 I would try the gas cap. I had an aftermarket locking gas cap so I decided to switch back to the original one that came with the car. Problem was the o-ring on the old cap was so worn/ripped/torn that I would need to buy a new OEM one. Instead I just took the o-ring off the aftermarket cap and put it on the OEM (or at least OEM-style) cap that came with the car. Problem fixed! It's been about 2000 miles roughly and haven't seen the issue come back yet, but if so I will buy a new OEM Acura cap.
Evap leaks are sometimes, such a pain in the ... HOWEVER, Eric has a SUPER GOOD POINT that I also push frequently. If your Check Engine Light is on, you'll have NO WAY of knowing if a new issue has cropped up, unless you fix the reason it's on, first.
Terrible convention to have one light for the most complicated chunk of the vehicle, yet 2 or 3 just for the brakes. With more vehicles going to digital dashboards, it would be lovely to have a diag mode where it will display the codes on the dash or console. Easier for consumers to know what's wrong instead of getting blindsided, and easier for techs to give accurate quotes.
Yes and no. You can refer to mode 6 data generic obd 2 on your scan tool to see exact Perameters of a specific part/monitor. Gives you an idea of a possible future or present problem.
I've been trying to figure out that code on my 08 Ford for months! This video helped me tremendously to understand the system so I can fix and find the leaks. Thank Eric!! shout out from michigan!
Had the same issue with my 2002 Honda Odyssey, I had changed the entire evap system and gas cap including evap solenoids in the engine bay which still gave me issues. Took it to the shop, smoked it out, replace a small canister next to the evap canister, worked great for a few weeks and the same p1457 came back on.
Same with my parents 2002 Odyssey, I replaced everything and that damn code kept coming back over and over, finally gave up and they just drive it as is.
I've found the same. I bought a washer fluid cap from them for less than $10. Within less than a year it completely disintegrated. I reached out for warranty purposes and told them it fell apart and sent a photo of the pieces I found under the hood. They wanted me to mail every piece of the part to honor the warranty. I explained that due to it literally disintegrating, there were some pieces that had fallen into the road while driving. They wouldn't honor the warranty even though I had a picture of what was left. Told me everything I needed to know. By the way, a mentos gum cap works and holds up better than their replacement part 😂
Eric a lot of the time the vent valves near the canister are defaulted to open and you have to close them with a scan tool or by applying 12v to it, I have to do this with any chevrolets when I am smoking the system.
I swear, 90% of the Dorman crap I've bought either didn't work / fit out of the box, or failed within a week. I've stopped giving them chances at this point.
It doesn't look like it even worked at all... Activating the valve should have let smoke out right? The code for a small leak isn't going to come back if you never open the vent 😜
@@chrisej5987 I'm actually pretty sure that those valves are suppose to be normally open unless energized, so I think he replaced a good valve. but it's very possible I'm wrong here.
I was raising my hand saying Eric take the ADS and close the valve it is a normally open solenoid. Every time I come across an Evap problem and it comes time to test them I hear Scanner Danner's lecture on Normally Open and Normally Closed.
VERY useful. My 1457 has been gone for 4 months or more but did finally come back. I tightened the gas cap and we'll see but any more trouble and I'm buying WATER BALOONS! To put on those selenoid valves to check for leaks and sprayway glass cleaner too ! Thanks!
I can understand you wanting to maybe keep that old valve around, since it was still working (maybe use it again later)---- but I would have really like for you to take it apart, or cut it open. Just to see what's inside/ how it works/ and maybe why it was partially leaking. Great vid- but I never fix this stuff when it goes bad. lol
You sir are a excellent teacher and very thorough with the explanations and showing the actual actions on the job.Thank u very much..I so needed this and will incorporate some of the checks that u did👍🏽
ITS HARD TO REALLY FIND A MECHANIC KNOWING WHAT HIS JOB IS,, ALL MECH I'VE KNOWN DONT DO SHT TO FIX CARS ONLY TRICKS THAT WORKS FOR A WHILE THEN CAR BROKES DOWN !!! YOU;VE AMAZING KNOWLEDGE !!
It sounds as though your scan tool isn't too happy about its lack of airtime. Perhaps if you give it more than a cameo next time it will stop complaining. 😁 Great video, Eric. Still the best on TH-cam. 👌
Dorman makes some extremely crappy electronic parts. I'd probably buy the Honda valve and keep it in the glove compartment for WHEN it fails. Great explanation of the system! I hate EVAP work probably more than anything on any vehicle today.
Heyo Eric! Fellow Honda/Acura enthusiast here! I am not sure if you have covered this in a previous video, but could you possibly make a video on J series LMAs? I’m pretty sure mine are worn out after 173,000 miles and I’m pretty confident I can replace them no hassle but I’d feel more at ease if you could make a video covering this! Thanks!
Hey Eric. Mahalo for the video! I've had a code P1457 for over a year. Tried fixing the o-rings and springs of the vent shut valve a few times.. but, it comes back every third drive cycle. Don't have a smoke machine.. I'll get to fixing it one of these days. Thanks for showing some techniques/possibilities. Hope You've been doing well! Aloha 🤙🤙🤙🤙
Great video, I tried to do the same with my 98 Honda Civic but it doesn’t have the purge cap, just a purge hose connected to the canister, so I tried pumping smoke into different places and the problem ended up being the gas filter, so I changed and no more P1457!
This reminded me of a so so friend who used a bic lighter to find gas leaks in his home heating system, which is quite dangerous but has the advantage of a pressurized gas which is pure, where as gasoline fumes from a cracked charcoal canister is not. Since it is cracked air can get in and mix with the fumes and you essentially have a possible big boom if met with a bic flame, which if you haven't guessed is exactly what happened. The canister went away and so did most of my friends hair, this was the old GM style ,really epic boom ,fortunately he had safety glasses on, LOL.
After you repaired the connector and pressurized the system with smoke, why didn't the flow increase when you commanded the valve open? Is the solenoid valve actually working (Dorman!!!)?
Hello, Being an electrical engineer by profession, the polarity of the solenoid does make a difference because internally across the coil may be a suppression diode(it is polarity sensitive;; the cathode of the diode is normally connected to the positive and the anode is connected to the negative). This is also called a fly-back diode. If you connect the polarity in the wrong direction then the solenoid will never work.
@@ericthecarguy Most schematics do not show the diode(it is an internal part that is part of the whole solenoid structure). You can't even measure the presence of this diode since the resistance of the coil will always show up unless the diode is a really shorted, then you would read a very low ohmic value(close to the value when you short your DVM test leads together in "resistance or ohmic" mode.
In my experience, Honda schematics usually show a diode in a solenoid if there is one. An example is the AC diodes. Given that this is a low amp circuit, I don't think there was a need to put one in. Cost always drives design when it comes to auto production. If they can save on a diode, they do. BTW, I never stated the OG poster was wrong.
@@ericthecarguy OK and thanks. Hey, did you ever find out why that brand new part did not work?? Was this a defective brand new part that failed (DOA).
Squirrels 🐿️. I went round and round with one of these issues. Started with the gas cap and the valve on the throttle body. Then went through some electrical diagnostic. After watching this video I built a DIY smoke machine and traced it back to the gas tank. Some kind of rodent was living on top of the gas tank and chewed the vent hose. Should be an easy repair but the part was kind of expensive ($80). Thanks for the helpful video. I was about ready to give up.
Back when I had an Elantra, evap codes were the bane of my existence. Car taken to the shop so many times, every part replaced once if not more times... never solved it. Looking back, I don't know why I didn't just bypass or delete the system entirely. Either way, eventually sold the car to a guy in a county that didn't require emissions testing.
hi Eric since you know Honda very well, especially Odyssey, i have a 2008 Odyssey touring when i went to start the van, starter motor went and at the time, it some how shocks the electrical system where i can not get both sliding doors to work, the latch motors work, trunk won’t open but the latch lock works same goes with radio, turn on but no sound anywhere where i can start looking ?
Hey Eric I seen one of your video from 10 years ago congratulations 🎊🍾 and I see you work with a lot of Honda’s. So I have a serious problem fixing a swapped d16y8 in to my 98 civic ex the car turns over but won’t start up and run it’s been stressing me out and can’t never get it start
What doesn’t give me a lot of confidence is a Dorman part. Best practice may have been to just buy an entire canister with new valves already on it. Of course that’s easy to say at the end. Good work!
Two things that I would like to make a note on: 1) Please take this part from my days as a pipefitter. The Vise-Grips were being used backwards. The small jaw should be used as an arrow pointing toward the other jaw for the correct direction for rotation. It's the same principle for Channel-Loks. This greatly reduces the chances of slipping on the fastener. 2) If you are working with threaded knurls going into plastic, a very good trick is to use a soldering iron to heat the knurl enough to melt the plastic that it goes into. It will stay for a very long time.
You are correct on the vice grips, but in this case, the grips actually only worked in this direction because the screw was so close to the part. I would not be able to turn it otherwise. Thanks for the heads up on the plastic trick. I'll have to try that next time.
FYI i believe the Shadier is a Reverse threaded valve. Are you closing the cvsv with the scanner? KOEO. Are you plugging the Purge? you wont see smoke going in the engine. I start with the purge by checking for vacuum with the engine running and electrical connector disconnected. then connect a vac/press gauge to it and then smoke from the tank with the cvsv or vent valve shut KOEO. Ohh I forgot, I have noticed on honda, kia and hyhundi, Some Valves will stick Shut because of the oil residue/ the smoke is mineral oil(holding the valve "ON" for long periods) Nice explanation on the evap sys and diagnostic flow
The vent valve should be open when it has no power key off, and closed when power is supplied, plus control ground from the ECM. Unplugging it and not having a leak doesn't make sense.. You will probably get a different code if the vent doesn't open and possibly problems filling with fuel. I love watching your videos, cause you never know when your going to learn something new.
Cute to see Eric the mechanic stumbling around with this dreaded 1457 code even with a smoke machine. The new solenoid breather valve power reset may have been all it needed. In fact the old one may not have been getting power either because of the smashed taped over plug. The vacuum valve was likely good as they are almost always silent and your machine showed a bad leak after it was replaced and until the solenoid vent breather reset. Expensive from the dealer but hey are you going to take it off and see if the old one is good and try to return an electrical item to the dealer? " Well if it's suddenly working after I changed some parts that's a win. " SO, Definitely check the power connections first before changing more parts. I thought you were going to supply 12 volts to all the valves before changing them out. I use CRC 226 on all the electrical plugs on my old Honda and they stay corrosion free and clean. I feel for you Eric . 1457 is a bitch. I changed the vent solenoid last year and now it's back again.
Yes I agree I also put a doorman evap canister in my 2004 CRV lasted maybe nine months Gollum from RockAuto I could not find the receipt needless to say I was screwed I had to buy another one this time I went to the dealer and purchased it I am retyre from the auto parts business 40 years started off in 1976 what's the hottest selling Parts where VW Beetles and British Dorman Products have been around forever I have to say from my experience they are very subpar
Great video. Too bad I don't have a machine like that. What I did was change one evap valve, drove for a few days get another check engine light. Change another, did the same. Change another, see again if I get another check engine light. Very pricey way to do, I know.
Eric! 99 civic swap b18c1. I just swap out my fuel pump from b16 to b18c1. Before that i had check engine for o2 sensor. Now i have po1457 or so code. Could it be leaking at the fuel pump since i did switch it out?
Hey Eric…so I have the same problem on my 98 accord….when I put the smoke machine on it like you did the smoke came out inside the frame…so does that mean with the car off all the valves should be closed and no smoke should be coming out inside the frame?
Eric, did you call it choke hold canister? I’m trying to order the whole part together not just the Solenoid valve. I have a 2001 Civic EX and I’m sure the entire thing needs to be replaced.
Nice work man ever dealt with P2646 it’s an oil pressure code when the VTEC engages, i have replaced the whole assembly checked wires for proper connection I’m thinking it might be the computer because at this point I can’t seem to trace a problem just wondering if you’ve ever encounter it this with these 2.4 motors.
Funny you should ask. That will be featured in an upcoming video about the Fixing it Forward Odyssey. Make sure the oil is at the proper level and be sure you're using the viscosity printed on the oil cap.
@@ericthecarguy thanks for getting back to me I appreciate the info, at this moment the oil is new, at the correct level, and the right type so it’s been boggling my mind /: I’ve been told these motors are super sensitive about oil type and amount, I’m looking forward to your video the work is always appreciated 👍
Have the code on my 02 CRV. Replaced canister/valve and that was not it. I don't think its actually a leak as I have noticed when I fill up at a higher elevation and then drive down a mountain, CEL goes away. Leads me to think its actually a pressure sensor. Having a very hard time finding where that is located and part number. Any ideas? Tank also holds pressure, have had it hiss when removing the cap after sitting on a hot day. Wouldn't mind even tricking the ECU into thinking its fine. Affects nothing and my state has no emissions but the CEL always on keeps me from knowing if something else comes up.
Just curious I have the p1457 code. Can it be a bad purge valve with this code or does a bad purge valve has its own fault code? Btw the symptoms my car has is long cranks to start and at times it wont start. I replaced fuel pump, ect sensor, coil pack. still same issue. I was told it could be a bad purge valve. Thoughts ?
The purge valve on these cars will hold vacuum but not pressure. You can incorrectly call a faulty purge valve if you aren't careful. Also, I have seen partially shorted purge valves which will move when activated, but cannot hold themselves against manifold vacuum. Meaning, the Venturi effect will pull the valve shut when it's running a duty cycle.
I had the same code on a 2004 Honda CRV. Replaced that canister valve and confirmed it worked (clicked). Check engine light came back on like before. Did the smoke test and found the new valve did not seal when closed (even though the test showed that it opened and closed). Installed a new Honda OEM valve, problem solved.
Great info Eric! The Schrader valve for the evaporative emission system is reverse thread.
I should have thought of that. Thanks.
@@ericthecarguy I thought that maybe you were trying to turn it backwards, since it was facing away from you. lol.. happens to me all sometimes
The valve core is a Left-hand thread.
@@GrayRaceCat No shit Sherlock. James already pointed that out.
@@ipdjbt now now children...
Bro, as a fellow car guy you’ve help me so damn much.
Your videos are clear with communication, descriptions and resolutions.
Hope this helps back some.
BrakeKleen for life lol.
Eric O was screaming at the screen when you showed the Dorman part. I could hear from here.🤣
In Eric O's voice: Frickin' Dorman...
@@xesior you know it!🤣
"Dorman junk" as Mr O would say.
Mr. O definitely not a Dorman fan
Also, Dorman is not a sponsor
Nice to see a mechanic doing this and going into so much detail. I feel that these days most mechanics do not operate like this. Way to go brother!
Lip pop l
❤oupopp
That's exactly how I fix my car, just start replacing shit until you get it fixed! You are an inspiration, Eric.
I have same car and code....i dont have eric's expensive tools to diagnose. I am doing same thing and replace what I can replace..
@@benjaminfrancisgonzales8431 fr I got that code rn😂 might just go to the junkyard and replace the whole canister
I have a 2010 Honda CR-V with a small leak and I feel like I just want to sell it to fix the problem! BUT used cars are pricey. It’s cheaper to just install new OEM Honda parts. I now need to buy a car lift. Lol.
Eric, not only do I learn a tremendous amount of useful info from your videos, I also find great entertainment in them. Case in point, I paused this video for a moment and came back to you making a facial expression that I found quite amusing. Educational, personable and entertaining. You are the king, man 🤘
You are spot on with your observation that a standing EVAP code can mask something more serious. One of my dinosaurmobiles routinely sets a P0442 and lights up the CEL, usually at around the 3/4 tank level as soon as the vehicle goes into closed loop. So whenever it does, I check that out and as long as P0442 is the only code listed I just clear it and get on with my life. I only put 1200-1500 miles a year on the car and chasing down some intermittent EVAP leak is not in my lifeplan.
So To anyone who watched this video and aplauds this great video, this was misdiagnosed!! The cvs is a normally opened solinoid.. So when he thinks he is turning it on with his bi directional tool he is actually shutting it off..
That is why he thought that he got a bad part.
His words "solinoid came partially opened"
The cvs is open the ECU controls the ground to close the valve and cut off vapor..
Obviously this guy never even realized he diagnosed this incorrectly or he would have updated it..
I agree and he also mis-identified the by pass valve for the vent valve in the beginning of the video when he was activating them. Still, he eventually got them correctly identified and demonstrated what techs are up against between the amount of equipment, needed, the time spent diagnosing and accessing and parts quality.
As a Honda tech for 20 years, the Canister vent shut solenoid valve, it is normally open (key off) when the computer commands the solenoid 'on' that would make the valve 'closed'
looks like we have 22 honda tech here
I'll add to that, when testing too much pressure builds up with valve closed, which over powers the spring that normally opens and holds it open. most likely the reason for it not clicking at video end.
@@throttlebottle5906 applying the smoke through the vent valve port should go in the right direction and show the difference in flow action when opening and closing the valve then.
@@dubmob151 the vent valve is designed to hold against negative pressure of a certain range. positive pressure in the atmospheric vent port may throw it way off. depending on design.
even if you mean upstream of the vent valve, in which over pressure can keep it forced closed.( very cold fuel into very warm climate, or vice versa and suck it open.
flawed junk is flawed junk and that is 96%+ of all vehicles and everything today! zero real world/field testing and faksde claims of durabiity backed by "up-sped" lab testing, which claima it's all great and stable for the next 100+ years... 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@throttlebottle5906 the valve should have been open from the start with no power applied but it showed no evidence of flow right after installation. It would have required a sudden burst of overpressure to lock up the valve and close it, which the smoke machine wouldn't be capable of with its low flow.
Seems like the valve might not have been working properly and was stuck closed, which may not trigger the leak code but cause other issues.
Old harness' are just as valuable if not more valuable than a bucket of nuts and bolts. Priceless in a pinch. Great vid thanks Eric.
My 67 Dodge D200 is probably 70% Mercedes-Benz wiring harness reworked...... that's one thing I've always admired under the hood of German vehicles: rarely will you spot inadequately wrapped wire or brittle connectors. Maybe it's just relativity. The bulkhead connectors of older Dodge vehicles make me think of using a fork and toaster as a conductor, though that would probably be safer!
I have a 2004 Honda Civic EX with a P1457. I was contemplating whether I could do this by myself, but after watching this video and discovering I could be dealing with rusted bolts, possible leaks from multiple different parts, and fume exposure. I have decided not to proceed with the repair myself. Thank You for the informative video.
I have changed canister, soleniod, vent valve, fuel pressure sensor/purge valve and the gas cap no luck so far. I gave up for now…
Did you fix it?? @@mercpindi5522
17:30 "It'll only be a few seconds for you.. "
I wish all of my repair efforts were that fast!
🤣👍
This really helped especially with mental preparation and being careful. I used a one foot needle-nose plier on the tiny clamps, which possibly gave me extra leverage and visibility -- also wiggling up and down so the clamp ring gets some movement. Thank you for also putting everything back so I do this the right way. Great video!!
I had a P1457 on my 1999 Acura Integra GSR a few times recently. Once was the EVAP cannister purge solenoid wiring being so corroded that working in the engine bay, I totally severed the wires just by bumping into it with tools/hands/parts removal. So I redid the wiring on that. It was a difficult area to reach so I must've not gotten the most solid connection, so when I was rebuilding my engine and transmission later I must've severed the wire again (tugging it with parts or tools). I bought an entirely new pigtail connector and wired it in (same as the one redone in the video, coincidentally haha). Yet the issue still came back, but this time it was a p1456 instead of p1457. I tested a few solenoids/valves with 12v power and then decided that because it was a p1456 I would try the gas cap. I had an aftermarket locking gas cap so I decided to switch back to the original one that came with the car. Problem was the o-ring on the old cap was so worn/ripped/torn that I would need to buy a new OEM one. Instead I just took the o-ring off the aftermarket cap and put it on the OEM (or at least OEM-style) cap that came with the car. Problem fixed! It's been about 2000 miles roughly and haven't seen the issue come back yet, but if so I will buy a new OEM Acura cap.
You might also be able to find one in salvage. I believe they're all the same. Just get one off a Honda.
Eric that's just great! I feel like I was the only one that yelled at inanimate objects kept on annoying me!
Evap leaks are sometimes, such a pain in the ...
HOWEVER, Eric has a SUPER GOOD POINT that I also push frequently.
If your Check Engine Light is on, you'll have NO WAY of knowing if a new issue has cropped up, unless you fix the reason it's on, first.
Terrible convention to have one light for the most complicated chunk of the vehicle, yet 2 or 3 just for the brakes. With more vehicles going to digital dashboards, it would be lovely to have a diag mode where it will display the codes on the dash or console. Easier for consumers to know what's wrong instead of getting blindsided, and easier for techs to give accurate quotes.
Yes and no. You can refer to mode 6 data generic obd 2 on your scan tool to see exact Perameters of a specific part/monitor. Gives you an idea of a possible future or present problem.
@@dillonv4298, We as mechanics can, but the average consumer can't.
I've been trying to figure out that code on my 08 Ford for months! This video helped me tremendously to understand the system so I can fix and find the leaks. Thank Eric!! shout out from michigan!
Awesome. I feel my work is done. Good luck finding your leak.
I kinda love the fact that the scan toool listened to you,and shut up after you told it to :) Lovely video,mister :) Greetings from Norway ,Stefan :)
Good test equipment and knowledge of how to use it is priceless.
OMG do miss EGC! Need my fix of Eric the car guy fixing things!
Had the same issue with my 2002 Honda Odyssey, I had changed the entire evap system and gas cap including evap solenoids in the engine bay which still gave me issues. Took it to the shop, smoked it out, replace a small canister next to the evap canister, worked great for a few weeks and the same p1457 came back on.
Did u find the problem
@@sickvick83 no, I end up getting rid of the car
Same with my parents 2002 Odyssey, I replaced everything and that damn code kept coming back over and over, finally gave up and they just drive it as is.
Dorman product, that is the issue. You have better chance of getting a part from a junk yard to work than getting a new part from Dorman.
Poorman strikes again
I agree they’re not exactly OEM quality and can be subpar but It was a wire and connector issue? How is that a faulty new or Doorman part?
I've found the same. I bought a washer fluid cap from them for less than $10. Within less than a year it completely disintegrated. I reached out for warranty purposes and told them it fell apart and sent a photo of the pieces I found under the hood. They wanted me to mail every piece of the part to honor the warranty. I explained that due to it literally disintegrating, there were some pieces that had fallen into the road while driving. They wouldn't honor the warranty even though I had a picture of what was left. Told me everything I needed to know. By the way, a mentos gum cap works and holds up better than their replacement part 😂
Thank you Eric. Lovin' your videos since the start of your channel.
You can tell he loves that scan tool, the gentle voice with which he asks it to be quiet
Thank you Eric I always love watching your wonderful videos I show us how you find faults I am from South Africa
Eric a lot of the time the vent valves near the canister are defaulted to open and you have to close them with a scan tool or by applying 12v to it, I have to do this with any chevrolets when I am smoking the system.
Diagnoses is an art. Also, I wish I had all those badass tools.
Great tip on the gas smell! THANKS! I will have to remember that one!
As soon as I saw Dorman on the box, I was like, oh damn. That's gonna fail again soon.
I swear, 90% of the Dorman crap I've bought either didn't work / fit out of the box, or failed within a week. I've stopped giving them chances at this point.
@@Drives31forhalo the stuff I’ve bought from dorman falls apart as I pull it out of the box.
It doesn't look like it even worked at all... Activating the valve should have let smoke out right? The code for a small leak isn't going to come back if you never open the vent 😜
@@chrisej5987 I'm actually pretty sure that those valves are suppose to be normally open unless energized, so I think he replaced a good valve. but it's very possible I'm wrong here.
@@chrisej5987 it shouldn't set a leak code but might make it difficult to fuel the vehicle with the vent stuck closed though.
I was raising my hand saying Eric take the ADS and close the valve it is a normally open solenoid. Every time I come across an Evap problem and it comes time to test them I hear Scanner Danner's lecture on Normally Open and Normally Closed.
VERY useful. My 1457 has been gone for 4 months or more but did finally come back. I tightened the gas cap and we'll see but any more trouble and I'm buying WATER BALOONS! To put on those selenoid valves to check for leaks and sprayway glass cleaner too ! Thanks!
I can understand you wanting to maybe keep that old valve around, since it was still working (maybe use it again later)---- but I would have really like for you to take it apart, or cut it open. Just to see what's inside/ how it works/ and maybe why it was partially leaking. Great vid- but I never fix this stuff when it goes bad. lol
Yo the tune of the scan tool just got me every time.
Great video Eric! We need you back making more! Hope all is well.
Eric, great job diagnose & explaining EVap system. thanks for taking the time to explaining step by step.
You sir are a excellent teacher and very thorough with the explanations and showing the actual actions on the job.Thank u very much..I so needed this and will incorporate some of the checks that u did👍🏽
Good information, watching from Africa, Botswana
ITS HARD TO REALLY FIND A MECHANIC KNOWING WHAT HIS JOB IS,, ALL MECH I'VE KNOWN DONT DO SHT TO FIX CARS ONLY TRICKS THAT WORKS FOR A WHILE THEN CAR BROKES DOWN !!! YOU;VE AMAZING KNOWLEDGE !!
Very detailed tutorial on how to repair the evap system on this car! Keep the great content coming!
Thank you for another new tips video sir Eric, and good to have you back for a long year by the way.👍
Hey Eric, thank you for all you do. I like your videos. They are helpful and good quality.
Dorman-Where quality is someone elses problem.
Try to sell me dorman parts...........THERES THE DOOR, MAN!!!!!!!!!!!.......how dorman got its name
It sounds as though your scan tool isn't too happy about its lack of airtime. Perhaps if you give it more than a cameo next time it will stop complaining. 😁
Great video, Eric. Still the best on TH-cam. 👌
The scan tool is annoying, but it does work better than the last one they sent. That was painfully slow. I hope you have a great weekend.
Dorman makes some extremely crappy electronic parts. I'd probably buy the Honda valve and keep it in the glove compartment for WHEN it fails. Great explanation of the system! I hate EVAP work probably more than anything on any vehicle today.
Excatly. Its 2021, aftermarket has gone to the toilet. I go used OEM parts if possible
I had a Honda valve fail in just over a year. Replaced it with a Dorman.
Heyo Eric! Fellow Honda/Acura enthusiast here! I am not sure if you have covered this in a previous video, but could you possibly make a video on J series LMAs? I’m pretty sure mine are worn out after 173,000 miles and I’m pretty confident I can replace them no hassle but I’d feel more at ease if you could make a video covering this! Thanks!
Hey Eric. Mahalo for the video! I've had a code P1457 for over a year. Tried fixing the o-rings and springs of the vent shut valve a few times.. but, it comes back every third drive cycle. Don't have a smoke machine.. I'll get to fixing it one of these days. Thanks for showing some techniques/possibilities. Hope You've been doing well!
Aloha 🤙🤙🤙🤙
Just like my 2002 rav4. 19 years old and +400 000km. Still runs great. And thats in eastern canada with the -20°c winters and salty roads
Great video, I tried to do the same with my 98 Honda Civic but it doesn’t have the purge cap, just a purge hose connected to the canister, so I tried pumping smoke into different places and the problem ended up being the gas filter, so I changed and no more P1457!
just in time, 4 days after this video i had this on my 2004 Civic
This reminded me of a so so friend who used a bic lighter to find gas leaks in his home heating system, which is quite dangerous but has the advantage of a pressurized gas which is pure, where as gasoline fumes from a cracked charcoal canister is not. Since it is cracked air can get in and mix with the fumes and you essentially have a possible big boom if met with a bic flame, which if you haven't guessed is exactly what happened. The canister went away and so did most of my friends hair, this was the old GM style ,really epic boom ,fortunately he had safety glasses on, LOL.
Solid repair, Eric. Thanks! I've been successful using a laser pointer to find small, hard to find leaks.
Great share Eric ! These days with the price of fuel and the crappy fuel we get ,MPG mean a lot .. ENJOYED
After you repaired the connector and pressurized the system with smoke, why didn't the flow increase when you commanded the valve open? Is the solenoid valve actually working (Dorman!!!)?
I agree seam ripper is your best friend for electrical work I use mine for tape all the time @EricTheCarGuy
Hello, Being an electrical engineer by profession, the polarity of the solenoid does make a difference because internally across the coil may be a suppression diode(it is polarity sensitive;; the cathode of the diode is normally connected to the positive and the anode is connected to the negative). This is also called a fly-back diode. If you connect the polarity in the wrong direction then the solenoid will never work.
Thank you for that input. Perhaps you missed that there wasn't a diode in the wiring diagram I showed in the video. Thanks for the comment.
There appear to be plenty of solenoids which do not require polarity.
@@ericthecarguy Most schematics do not show the diode(it is an internal part that is part of the whole solenoid structure). You can't even measure the presence of this diode since the resistance of the coil will always show up unless the diode is a really shorted, then you would read a very low ohmic value(close to the value when you short your DVM test leads together in "resistance or ohmic" mode.
In my experience, Honda schematics usually show a diode in a solenoid if there is one. An example is the AC diodes. Given that this is a low amp circuit, I don't think there was a need to put one in. Cost always drives design when it comes to auto production. If they can save on a diode, they do. BTW, I never stated the OG poster was wrong.
@@ericthecarguy OK and thanks. Hey, did you ever find out why that brand new part did not work?? Was this a defective brand new part that failed (DOA).
Excellent video Eric and thanks for sharing. Stay safe and well Artie 🇺🇸😊
This is the best video I have ever seen. Thank you Eric
Your excellent electrical repair made me give you a like! Shrinking tube and the whole deal... Nice work, as always!
Good video Eric! Always learn something new
Just love your efforts you put into the repair work and explaining it along way 👍🏻
Your video are very informative. I enjoy them very much so . Thank you for your time Sir.
Squirrels 🐿️. I went round and round with one of these issues. Started with the gas cap and the valve on the throttle body. Then went through some electrical diagnostic. After watching this video I built a DIY smoke machine and traced it back to the gas tank. Some kind of rodent was living on top of the gas tank and chewed the vent hose. Should be an easy repair but the part was kind of expensive ($80). Thanks for the helpful video. I was about ready to give up.
Shocking, a new Doorman part may not work? SHOCKED...SHOCKED I TELL YOU! As soon as I saw it I thought back to Eric O and saying "Just say no"...LOL
I put a cam phaser on a cr-v and told my manager it would be back. 1 week later it had vet performance codes.
Back when I had an Elantra, evap codes were the bane of my existence. Car taken to the shop so many times, every part replaced once if not more times... never solved it. Looking back, I don't know why I didn't just bypass or delete the system entirely. Either way, eventually sold the car to a guy in a county that didn't require emissions testing.
You really can't delete the system. You don't want pressure building up in the fuel tank on hot days, or, if air can't get in, fuel can't get out.
@@ericthecarguy what was done on cars prior to evap? just vent to atmosphere?
Yes.
@@ericthecarguy Loosen the gas cap fixed.
So do does that hose under the cross member also need to be replaced? I saw smoke under there as well.
Schrader valves on evap systems are reverse Thread Counter clock wise to release @EricTheCarGuy
Thank you for sharing the video.
hi Eric
since you know Honda very well, especially Odyssey, i have a 2008 Odyssey touring when i went to start the van, starter motor went and at the time, it some how shocks the electrical system where i can not get both sliding doors to work, the latch motors work, trunk won’t open but the latch lock works
same goes with radio, turn on but no sound
anywhere where i can start looking ?
Hey Eric I seen one of your video from 10 years ago congratulations 🎊🍾 and I see you work with a lot of Honda’s.
So I have a serious problem fixing a swapped d16y8 in to my 98 civic ex the car turns over but won’t start up and run it’s been stressing me out and can’t never get it start
Fun fact: smoke machine also works for sick guitar solos on stage.
What doesn’t give me a lot of confidence is a Dorman part. Best practice may have been to just buy an entire canister with new valves already on it. Of course that’s easy to say at the end. Good work!
Two things that I would like to make a note on:
1) Please take this part from my days as a pipefitter. The Vise-Grips were being used backwards. The small jaw should be used as an arrow pointing toward the other jaw for the correct direction for rotation. It's the same principle for Channel-Loks. This greatly reduces the chances of slipping on the fastener.
2) If you are working with threaded knurls going into plastic, a very good trick is to use a soldering iron to heat the knurl enough to melt the plastic that it goes into. It will stay for a very long time.
Fellow fitter here. Can confirm. UA290 hand. You?
You are correct on the vice grips, but in this case, the grips actually only worked in this direction because the screw was so close to the part. I would not be able to turn it otherwise. Thanks for the heads up on the plastic trick. I'll have to try that next time.
@@spacepope-1 I was part of local 286 in Austin, TX back in 2006
Remember having issue with my first explorer problem was none of the evap stuff you could buy so had to get real creative to fix it to pass emissions.
FYI i believe the Shadier is a Reverse threaded valve.
Are you closing the cvsv with the scanner? KOEO.
Are you plugging the Purge? you wont see smoke going in the engine.
I start with the purge by checking for vacuum with the engine running and electrical connector disconnected. then connect a vac/press gauge to it and then smoke from the tank with the cvsv or vent valve shut KOEO.
Ohh I forgot, I have noticed on honda, kia and hyhundi, Some Valves will stick Shut because of the oil residue/ the smoke is mineral oil(holding the valve "ON" for long periods)
Nice explanation on the evap sys and diagnostic flow
The vent valve should be open when it has no power key off, and closed when power is supplied, plus control ground from the ECM. Unplugging it and not having a leak doesn't make sense.. You will probably get a different code if the vent doesn't open and possibly problems filling with fuel. I love watching your videos, cause you never know when your going to learn something new.
Scan tool working hard to steal Erics thunder. “Quiet scan tool!”
Cute to see Eric the mechanic stumbling around with this dreaded 1457 code even with a smoke machine. The new solenoid breather valve power reset may have been all it needed. In fact the old one may not have been getting power either because of the smashed taped over plug. The vacuum valve was likely good as they are almost always silent and your machine showed a bad leak after it was replaced and until the solenoid vent breather reset.
Expensive from the dealer but hey are you going to take it off and see if the old one is good and try to return an electrical item to the dealer?
" Well if it's suddenly working after I changed some parts that's a win. "
SO, Definitely check the power connections first before changing more parts.
I thought you were going to supply 12 volts to all the valves before changing them out.
I use CRC 226 on all the electrical plugs on my old Honda and they stay corrosion free and clean. I feel for you Eric . 1457 is a bitch. I changed the vent solenoid last year and now it's back again.
Yes I agree I also put a doorman evap canister in my 2004 CRV lasted maybe nine months Gollum from RockAuto I could not find the receipt needless to say I was screwed I had to buy another one this time I went to the dealer and purchased it I am retyre from the auto parts business 40 years started off in 1976 what's the hottest selling Parts where VW Beetles and British Dorman Products have been around forever I have to say from my experience they are very subpar
So need to shut vent valve or bypass valve for these tests?
Great video. Too bad I don't have a machine like that. What I did was change one evap valve, drove for a few days get another check engine light. Change another, did the same. Change another, see again if I get another check engine light. Very pricey way to do, I know.
You are the man Eric!!!!
I have gotten a po442, 447 448 and 456, but not the one you described. 447 and 448 were evap voltage related which cost me big bucks.
Eric! 99 civic swap b18c1. I just swap out my fuel pump from b16 to b18c1. Before that i had check engine for o2 sensor. Now i have po1457 or so code. Could it be leaking at the fuel pump since i did switch it out?
Hey Eric…so I have the same problem on my 98 accord….when I put the smoke machine on it like you did the smoke came out inside the frame…so does that mean with the car off all the valves should be closed and no smoke should be coming out inside the frame?
😂. I was fixing to go off on one of my Dorman-rants.
Eric, did you call it choke hold canister? I’m trying to order the whole part together not just the Solenoid valve.
I have a 2001 Civic EX and I’m sure the entire thing needs to be replaced.
A very informative video, great job
ty so much i learned and fixed my evap issue . awesome 👌
Nice work man ever dealt with P2646 it’s an oil pressure code when the VTEC engages, i have replaced the whole assembly checked wires for proper connection I’m thinking it might be the computer because at this point I can’t seem to trace a problem just wondering if you’ve ever encounter it this with these 2.4 motors.
Funny you should ask. That will be featured in an upcoming video about the Fixing it Forward Odyssey. Make sure the oil is at the proper level and be sure you're using the viscosity printed on the oil cap.
@@ericthecarguy thanks for getting back to me I appreciate the info, at this moment the oil is new, at the correct level, and the right type so it’s been boggling my mind /: I’ve been told these motors are super sensitive about oil type and amount, I’m looking forward to your video the work is always appreciated 👍
What manufacturer/model scan tool can you recommend for bi-directional operation to monitor codes and activate solenoids for EVAP testing?
thinktool
@@prmayner how much $$?
Refresh until new video comes out gang
Eric how about if you get a code p145c can you continue to drive or should I fix it right away? Oh it's on a Honda Accord LX 2012
Eric will be doing this exact video again when the Dorman part fails. I thought he liked using only oem Honda parts
Have the code on my 02 CRV. Replaced canister/valve and that was not it. I don't think its actually a leak as I have noticed when I fill up at a higher elevation and then drive down a mountain, CEL goes away. Leads me to think its actually a pressure sensor. Having a very hard time finding where that is located and part number. Any ideas? Tank also holds pressure, have had it hiss when removing the cap after sitting on a hot day. Wouldn't mind even tricking the ECU into thinking its fine. Affects nothing and my state has no emissions but the CEL always on keeps me from knowing if something else comes up.
Just curious I have the p1457 code. Can it be a bad purge valve with this code or does a bad purge valve has its own fault code? Btw the symptoms my car has is long cranks to start and at times it wont start. I replaced fuel pump, ect sensor, coil pack. still same issue. I was told it could be a bad purge valve. Thoughts ?
The purge valve on these cars will hold vacuum but not pressure. You can incorrectly call a faulty purge valve if you aren't careful. Also, I have seen partially shorted purge valves which will move when activated, but cannot hold themselves against manifold vacuum. Meaning, the Venturi effect will pull the valve shut when it's running a duty cycle.
Good video very informative Eric @EricTheCarGuy
I had the same code on a 2004 Honda CRV. Replaced that canister valve and confirmed it worked (clicked). Check engine light came back on like before. Did the smoke test and found the new valve did not seal when closed (even though the test showed that it opened and closed). Installed a new Honda OEM valve, problem solved.
Hey Eric. Can I use diesel oil 15w40 in my gasoline engine 5w30 oil??
Where do u find the yellow gas cap tool for the test?