I truly believe you produce the best informative climbing content on TH-cam. It's rare that a video provides a deeper understanding of the sport or a further insight into tactics etc, yet every single video you put out gives me both - thank you!
Thanks so much! This channel is my attempt is to share what I learned along the way of my personal journey of deep engagement with climbing. I appreciate your subscription - it means a lot and I sincerely hope you get a chance some day to use the mobeta guidebook!
One of the few channels where a new video is an instant click. So much quality practical advice and infectious psych. Having to take a break from regular climbing (sad!) but can still learn!
@Simikins Thanks so much! Sad indeed, but it's all part of the journey. I spent 3 years clandestinely climbing in a storage locker as my only access, and had 2 hip surgeries with extensive recoveries recently. Happy I can help keep the psych high for you in your metaphorical storage locker!
Very interesting, in my experience preventing flappers from occuring by filing calluses is very effective, although maybe to a lesser extent in the context of harsh cold outdoor rock
@Asdfghjkl-ls1or Agree completely. Excessively thick skin is a flapper risk. Unfortunately, in severe sub zero temps, the skin is essentially frozen and just sheers off regardless.
@middle-agedclimber Necessity is mother of invention. I needed to sterilize my hands at work which was brutal, so I desperately experimented with water proof coverings.
Very interesting as always! On the subject of skin, do you have a particular approach regarding raw skin after a long climbing day? Does applying vaseline hourly until you do to bed to something similar would be effective?
@flanfl7556 If the epidermis is intact (which it typically is) then time and nutrition are pretty much your only options. There's not magic at this stage. I do have a special clamp I use to stimulate callus, but at that red raw stage you've already maximized signals to the keratinocytes to kick into high gear.
@flanfl7556 Food. For the most part topical products just influence epidermal hydration, negligible effect on skim growth rate once the wound is closed.
@scoobyisadog The most experienced outdoor climbers in Nova Scotia don't use antihydral. It's more effective for gym climbing than sharp outdoor micro holds. Edit: if you use it for outdoors, definitely microdose.
@tangran-ok7ci Double at least. It's hard to overstate how much faster the complete protection and moist environment of the hydrocolloid speeds healing. Edit: Depends of course on your bandaid barrier effectiveness, but finger tips and traditional bandaids often don't do well. Once you are epitheliazied, switching to moisturizing with ointment is a good idea.
@calebgerhard7313 it helps as long as you are through the epidermis. Just worn down with intact epidermis it won't help. I do use it on knee and ankle scrapes which heal more slowly.
@calebgerhard7313 Voltaren gel works for the pain and is magic in that regard. I don't recommend NSAIDS at all for atheletes however. Use on special occasions.
@enotkvit medical literature doesn't support one method versus the other (popping vs leaving). Personally, I've found popping, trimming and patching to be the better method. I suspect the skin maceration and inevitable uncontrollably popping and shearing during climbing is the issue in finger context, but there is no evidence to support this.
@@Mobeta Interesting! Thanks for the feedback. Also, do you have any opinions on moisturizers that contain vitamin C? I've been using one nightly, and my skin feels better after gym sessions. But I'm not sure if the vitamin C in the moisturizers helps, or is just a marketing gimmick.
@enotkvit I do the same. I would add a collegen supplement as well. You can make delicious gummy bears and jello. Personally, the burden of evidence for inexpensive supplements and skin care isn't very high.
Hello Dave, very interesting video. As for me no need of glue, a good bandage type "band aid" put on the wound after the teared skin is cut seems better because, while being relatively hermetic, it lets enter a little humidity (while washing my hand fior exemple) which can't get out and create a humid environment for the skin to grow back. I also put some vaseline sometimes on it before placing the bandage.The wound is completely healed in less than a weak but 3 days after the tear the new skin is thicker enough to be strapped and almost painless while climbing (even if i don't wait for it to climb again). It is a very complicated subject, we argue a lot about it with Guillaume... unfortunately he believes you more than me.
Hi Marie! I disagree for a variety of reasons too nuanced to debate here. That's not important anyways. The more important issue is when are you coming back to Nova Scotia?? I opened many new blocs, and I bought a much bigger and more comfortable boat for our adventures. Let me know so I can book vacation! Love you guys!
@havinleung1928 medical glue is super glue with softening agents added. In this case, we aren't contacting the wound anyway, we are using it on intact epidermis so it is doubly fine.
@kerwinloukusa My partner is A plastic surgeon and a fan of Medi honey. They don't have a product suitable for fingertips that I'm aware of and I would prioritize the moist wound healing.
so you keep the patch on with glue under tape and continue climbing or rest the wound until it's healed? Most people i know just tape and keep climbing with zero rest on the skin until their body rest day
@1bird_d sorry if it wasn't clear, this is a rest day healing protocol. I just tape and keep climbing as well. This get you back to primo skin faster for next sesh. I do it as soon as the sessions over - restoring the epithelial barrier is the rate limitng step in healing.
I truly believe you produce the best informative climbing content on TH-cam. It's rare that a video provides a deeper understanding of the sport or a further insight into tactics etc, yet every single video you put out gives me both - thank you!
Thanks so much! This channel is my attempt is to share what I learned along the way of my personal journey of deep engagement with climbing. I appreciate your subscription - it means a lot and I sincerely hope you get a chance some day to use the mobeta guidebook!
Thanks for sharing. I am glad to have found the channel.
the king of tactics is back
@@yuderekyu 😂 more skin = more grinding
Thank you, I literally got a very similar tear the day after you uploaded this, this has been super helpful
@JusticeGort tis the season. Glad I could help! Mines fully healed and ready for another go
One of the few channels where a new video is an instant click. So much quality practical advice and infectious psych. Having to take a break from regular climbing (sad!) but can still learn!
@Simikins Thanks so much! Sad indeed, but it's all part of the journey. I spent 3 years clandestinely climbing in a storage locker as my only access, and had 2 hip surgeries with extensive recoveries recently. Happy I can help keep the psych high for you in your metaphorical storage locker!
Ive always used waterproof bandages but i ripped a crater in my finger yesterday so im trying this out, excited to see the results
Update left it on for a day an the skin was virtually perfect
Great video, very informative, fun and easy to watch, and straight to the point. climb on!
@@kylehaddad6714 Thanks, that's what I'm going for with this series!
Appreciate the sharing! It's super helpful.
Very interesting, in my experience preventing flappers from occuring by filing calluses is very effective, although maybe to a lesser extent in the context of harsh cold outdoor rock
@Asdfghjkl-ls1or Agree completely. Excessively thick skin is a flapper risk. Unfortunately, in severe sub zero temps, the skin is essentially frozen and just sheers off regardless.
Man, brilliant in its simplicity. why did I never think of hydrokoloid patches, having many of them at home???
@middle-agedclimber Necessity is mother of invention. I needed to sterilize my hands at work which was brutal, so I desperately experimented with water proof coverings.
How do feel about liquid Band-Aid, also love the content I like how in depth you get about stuff I would never think about.
@p_o_k_e_yproductions5369 I've found skin glue works well for tiny punctures (
Very interesting as always!
On the subject of skin, do you have a particular approach regarding raw skin after a long climbing day? Does applying vaseline hourly until you do to bed to something similar would be effective?
@flanfl7556 If the epidermis is intact (which it typically is) then time and nutrition are pretty much your only options. There's not magic at this stage. I do have a special clamp I use to stimulate callus, but at that red raw stage you've already maximized signals to the keratinocytes to kick into high gear.
@Mobeta thanks! For clarification, when you say nutrition it's about food or skin nutrition like hand cream? (Sorry it's a silly question 😅)
@flanfl7556 Food. For the most part topical products just influence epidermal hydration, negligible effect on skim growth rate once the wound is closed.
@@Mobeta thanks! Much clearer 😁
I'd love a video on skin conditioning for hard sends. I'm getting to the point where skin pain is a limiting factor on sharp rock.
@scoobyisadog thanks, good idea, I'll add it to the list. We have the smallest, sharpest holds in the world, so pain is part of hard climbing here.
@@Mobeta Ive played around with antihydral and vitamin E but struggle to find the balance between thin/glassy and thick/tissue paper.
@scoobyisadog The most experienced outdoor climbers in Nova Scotia don't use antihydral. It's more effective for gym climbing than sharp outdoor micro holds.
Edit: if you use it for outdoors, definitely microdose.
Great beta. I apply antibiotic ointment or vasoline with a bandaid and replace once a day or so. Will the hydrocolloid patch be more effective?
@tangran-ok7ci Double at least. It's hard to overstate how much faster the complete protection and moist environment of the hydrocolloid speeds healing.
Edit: Depends of course on your bandaid barrier effectiveness, but finger tips and traditional bandaids often don't do well. Once you are epitheliazied, switching to moisturizing with ointment is a good idea.
Would the same idea apply more superficial wounds, like worn down skin on the fingertips from long/frequent sessions?
@calebgerhard7313 it helps as long as you are through the epidermis. Just worn down with intact epidermis it won't help. I do use it on knee and ankle scrapes which heal more slowly.
@@MobetaI figured. So no amazing solution for pain with intact epidermis?
@calebgerhard7313 Voltaren gel works for the pain and is magic in that regard. I don't recommend NSAIDS at all for atheletes however. Use on special occasions.
How about blisters that haven't popped - what is the fastest way to heal those? Should I pop them and trim the skin, or should I leave it alone?
@enotkvit medical literature doesn't support one method versus the other (popping vs leaving). Personally, I've found popping, trimming and patching to be the better method. I suspect the skin maceration and inevitable uncontrollably popping and shearing during climbing is the issue in finger context, but there is no evidence to support this.
@@Mobeta Interesting! Thanks for the feedback. Also, do you have any opinions on moisturizers that contain vitamin C? I've been using one nightly, and my skin feels better after gym sessions. But I'm not sure if the vitamin C in the moisturizers helps, or is just a marketing gimmick.
@enotkvit I do the same. I would add a collegen supplement as well. You can make delicious gummy bears and jello. Personally, the burden of evidence for inexpensive supplements and skin care isn't very high.
Do you have a similar hack for raw tips ?
@sightreader2507 Time is the main factor. I use a special clamp to apply pressure and stimulate callus formation.
Hello Dave, very interesting video. As for me no need of glue, a good bandage type "band aid" put on the wound after the teared skin is cut seems better because, while being relatively hermetic, it lets enter a little humidity (while washing my hand fior exemple) which can't get out and create a humid environment for the skin to grow back. I also put some vaseline sometimes on it before placing the bandage.The wound is completely healed in less than a weak but 3 days after the tear the new skin is thicker enough to be strapped and almost painless while climbing (even if i don't wait for it to climb again). It is a very complicated subject, we argue a lot about it with Guillaume... unfortunately he believes you more than me.
Hi Marie! I disagree for a variety of reasons too nuanced to debate here. That's not important anyways. The more important issue is when are you coming back to Nova Scotia?? I opened many new blocs, and I bought a much bigger and more comfortable boat for our adventures. Let me know so I can book vacation! Love you guys!
superglue? or something more gentle?
@havinleung1928 medical glue is super glue with softening agents added. In this case, we aren't contacting the wound anyway, we are using it on intact epidermis so it is doubly fine.
What about manuka honey?
@kerwinloukusa My partner is A plastic surgeon and a fan of Medi honey. They don't have a product suitable for fingertips that I'm aware of and I would prioritize the moist wound healing.
so you keep the patch on with glue under tape and continue climbing or rest the wound until it's healed? Most people i know just tape and keep climbing with zero rest on the skin until their body rest day
@1bird_d sorry if it wasn't clear, this is a rest day healing protocol. I just tape and keep climbing as well. This get you back to primo skin faster for next sesh. I do it as soon as the sessions over - restoring the epithelial barrier is the rate limitng step in healing.
@@Mobeta thanks :)
Flappers HATE this one simple trick
@@climbingr0cks 😂 I'll get you to help up my titles game
pet dat dawg
🫡