How to Keep T-Shirts from Sticking to Screens - Overprint Screen Printing Tutorial - Anatol Titan M
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- How to Keep T-Shirts from Sticking to Screens - Overprint Screen Printing Tutorial - Anatol Titan M | Ulano TZ Emulsion - amzn.to/3jfQkOS
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If y'all take only one thing away from this let it be 'STOP PRINT FLASH PRINTING YOUR BASE! Use a base and highlight white!' Good stuff Matt!
Thank, Jonathan! Bingo.
Great video Matt i use 200 mesh. I think the ink a little and I’ve not had that problem lol
That’s thin the ink lol
@@bagwear8689 LOL! 200 works well. It pretty hot here so it tends to flow pretty well, but during the winder we'll cut it a little to get it flowing. Thanks Karen!!!
Your videos about the basics helped me make my own all over print tees at home and they ended up in a few local shops now as a result. Thank you
Thanks for this!
Sure thing!
I’m having an issue where my ink is sticking, and when I remove the screen the white graphic looks like it’s missing half the ink, is my ink too thick? Am I not pressing hard enough? Am I squeegeeing too fast?
So 230 mesh for the underbase might not put quite enough ink down? Are you using reducer or viscosity buster tou help get the white to clear the mesh and have good coverage? Thank you again for all of these great tutorials. If I'm ever in your neck of the woods I'm bringing you guys pizza and a couple cases of beer.:)
Hahah, thanks, we'd appreciate that. It's enough coverage and we don't use reducer. If it's a simple print we'll use a 195 mesh. For more detailed work, we use 230 mesh. It's all about squeegee angle, pressure, and a good quality ink.
Something I've always been curious about, top white, do you create that screen with no stoke, exact, butt registered? I hope that's not confusing! You printed base white, red, gold, and finished with top white, does that top white butt register to the red and gold or do you add .5 stroke, etc..? Is it also the exact print file for the base white, minus where there other colors are being printed requiring precise registration to land exactly on top of the base white?
Wet-on-wet is great when everything works as it should!
I still haven't dialed it in to print w-o-w when colors are touching though, always have to send it around for another flash. Any tips?
Use a higher mesh, like 230 or 305 to limit the amount of ink being put down. Sometimes there are colors that just need an additional flash to keep the edges crisp.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 I typically do 155 for underbase, 230 for overprints. Ran a 600 pc job yesterday on the auto in one spin using your method. 200m underbase, flash, flatten, 230 gold, 200 white. Colors had some spots that touched, but the whole thing ran GREAT.
If I'm ever in the area, I owe you and your team some pizza and beers! Learned a lot over the years from your videos
My problem with going with a higher mesh for the underbase is that it doesn't matdown those fibers properly. I try to use the roller as little as possible.
Understandable. We tend to use a flattening screen for every job, aside from white wet on wet jobs.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 I have the roller on our 6 color press, so that usually takes away another head. I only really have the fiber issue when doing white prints only and using a 110 mesh for the underbase usually solves the issue. Would be nice if all cotton shirts printed like they do on poly..lol
What are some of the methods you use to keep your shirts from sticking to your screens?
Honestly, I thought this would be a far simpler process by just adding a thin layer of silicon to the bottoms of the screens or adding an additive to reduce inks from sticking. No??? The problems lies when you are printing very large designs and when you use CMYK mixing of water-based inks. You have no choice. You have to use a ton of ink to mix the colors correctly.
Silicon works as well. Multiple ways of addressing the same issue.
Can I ask you a question. We just got our titan and are using 21x28 screens jow far down on the screen are yiu starting your graphic so you can get the full flood? I am at 6.5" and its still kind of close
We put our image about 6" down. The image is high enough so the squeegee can reach above our registration marks. The flood bar doesn't necessarily need to go all the way past the top of the image. Just make sure you have a decent amount of ink in the screen, and not too much pressure on the flood bar towards where it's putting a line in the printed image.
Only time I have that problem is when I have a huge open area of white. Doesn’t seem to be much I can do about it, other than slow down stroke speed.
You're right about that. Sometimes it's almost unavoidable depending on the design and size.
Damn, wish I would of watched this first before buying the current screens I got. Awesome, info. Thank you for sharing this information.
Any time!
How do you get the ink on your shirt to not feel thick. I'm not a screen printer so I have a serious question. When I shop at target, and get myself a graphic tee from their section of starwars and marvel and all that, the ink is really thin, almost feels like it's part of the shirt. However, when I order screen printed shirt for school, the ink is THICK and when i go outside it sticks to my back because of how much ink is used.
I softer feeling, or thinner layer of ink is achieved by using a higher mesh count, which lays down less ink.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 do you have examples of you doing thin ink on shirts in your videos?
U always use 230 mesh mikey to do hasltone . why.
U dont like to use 305 mesh .
Why not tiger
230 is my go to but I also use 195, 200, 230, and 305. I mainly use 305 for dark colors such as black.
Sir, What precautions we should take while we are doing with nylon mesh and white colour?
Same precautions. Try a higher mesh count, use a separate screen for white, and that should help.
So your white top is a 230 mesh also? Sorry about all of the questions.
Not a problem. That's correct. The white top doesn't need as much ink put down because you're printing ink on top of ink.
One question..why are your pallets all black in center?
Lots of t-shirt printing and lint collecting.
good morning, how are you? I hope so, congratulations on another video hugs great deals
I'm doing well and I hope you are too! Thank you and hugs!
It doesn't look like you scrub your platens with water and scrub pad. Sometimes you can clean the lint off the glued platens and sometimes reuse the original glue to print jobs. We call it washing the platens, it only works on waterbased glue, with no spray tack. Sometimes I would print 600 shirts wash the platens then heat them up and do 400 more.
I do. I'm in the middle of training Mario and getting him used to the way things work around here so we have just been going going going. I have a video up on how to remove the lint, and in a lot of my vlogs I do just that. Time to get my new dude on board. Baby steps.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 that's cool baby steps worked for me I had come from an all manual place to an all automatic place, and I asked them where's the spray tack to which I got the worst looks. They shocked me into waterbased glue and washing platens.
@@jesselejarzar5114 I hear that! I honest just need to get to Home Depot and get another water spray bottle because the one I have been using for years finally went out. Starting to get things caught up around here with our new hire.
Thanks Matt for your teaching appreciate you
Thank you! I appreciate it.
Hi can we add pigment color in white plastisol ink to make new colors? what are the pros and cons
You definitely can. That's how a lot of custom Pantone colors are made and there is no draw back. Just make sure you use plastisol ink with plastisol because Waterbased will not mix with plastisol. Ask me how I know lol.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 well thats amazing.. i bought bunch of discharge base along with Pigment inks.. now i was wondering if i can mix those pigment into White plastisol and start printing. Hope it works!?
@@gyantechguru3129 Yeah, should work like a champ and do well with a mixing system. You can easily nail Pantone colors.
cool video matt print looks crisp good work
Thank you!!! I appreciate it. We hope you're doing well.
So it's cool if the ink builds up?
For the over prints, yes! It'll save the time of flashing and it'll increase production. If the colors bleed together, you can flash between, but for the most part wet on wet after flashing the base works well on most jobs.
Thanks Matt that is some really awesome tips , that really helps,,, you are greatness
Thanks, Matt! I figured doing a video for you would be a great way to show how we did it. Even though it was kinda run and gun, but I hope it helped.
Totally it helps , everything you do helps, alot of us really appreciate your knowledge you are awesome.
@@matthewgrider33 Anything to help out. If I can squeeze in a video about it I will.
👍
Thank you!
Have you thought about scrubbing your palates in between jobs and just reactivating glue instead of just applying more glue over the top?
I do, but my new screen printer is kinda lazy and doesn't. Time for some retraining.