I definitely like the new pegs that you shaped and installed. I wish it were that easy for me to do that. I'd change my pegs today if I could do it myself without fear of failure and ruination of my violin.
Hi Kimon! Thank you so much for all your videos! I just did a set of pegs and followed your teachings on this topic step by step and I am very pleased with how they came out! I have been watching you and all your videos for a few months now and I am starting my first Violin build using the same maker of the model you are video taping except mine will be The Messiah model! Thanks again and soon I will become a contributing patron to you and your teachings! Best Regards, Kurt
Nice job. Yes the new pegs are nice but i found the old system quite interesting and i felt was very professionally installed as well. Anyway just wanted to say you do excellent work and i think your videos are some of the best on TH-cam
I loved the old pegs and if they were original on the instrument I am a bit sad to see them replaced. That said, if the functionality for the player improved with the new ones and otherwise there was no difference, that is more important. Thank you very much for the video.
Very informative. I was thinking about getting some rosewood fittings for my violin and decided to do some research. Glad I didn't just buy them, because I didn't realize all these special tools were required to fit them.
Good to hear that my video was helpful to you in some way! The best is to bring your violin to a luthier. Also be careful with rosewood as it is a protected wood since a couple of years.
I have watched all of your videos and found them extremely informative and enjoyable. I have been restoring a dead violin for a few months now (lockdown hobby!) and I am about to cut the the new pegs (that's why I am revisiting some episodes). Many thanks for you help!!!
I way much preferred the old ones. Looked robust, and like they were trying to fix loose peg problems. Like I can see that being something someone would make a business idea.
Are there different thicknesses of pegs available? Do you change progressively to thicker and thicker pegs then as the pegbox holes wear down? How do you know when you need bushings? How do you make the bushings? What is the best depth to start with and why are the peg blanks so much longer to start out with?
Nice Kimon, but all these videos to miss how to match up the exact shaping of the pegs to the reamer, and is the reamer ever placed inside the shaper to achieve the profile? Videos of peg fitting always seem to miss that part out? Thanks.
what are the right positions for each hole of each peg at minute 6:30 ...I got a new set of pegs in blank and I would like to know where exactly make the holes. My violin is 3/4
How far should the new Peg protrude from the opposite side. Is it flush with the Peg Box side or does it stick out a bit. Also should the drill bit size be 1/16th for the Peg hole. Thanks.
Maestro, I read not to use the peg reamer to enlarge the holes to get the peg to fit @ 4:40? Why didn't you use the peg shaver to fit the peg to final fitment?
Maestro, I would think you would only want to enlarge the holes as a last resort or very fine tuning. At some point of replacing pegs and constantly reaming the holes they would become too large. Ideally you wouldn't be replacing them often, but it might save someone else a lot of work in the future. Also, if you mess up on a peg you can easily get a new one, if you mess up on the hole you got a lot more work to do. Maybe shave the peg as close as you can, then use the peg reamer to get the perfect fit. I'm sure after doing it many times you would get the feel of your peg shaver and get a closer fit and reduce the amount wood you would be taking out of peg holes with the peg reamer.
@@maestrokimon The holes for the strings that you showed drilling in the pegs, I thought, have to be carefully marked and drilled to be aligned with the string grooves at the end piece of the fingerboard. I just thought that it was important.
I see, now I understand! The first two pegs (G and E) have to be drilled in the middle, the D 1mm to the right (towards the tremble) and the A 1mm to the left (towards the bas).
Thank you for the very clear instructions. Do you have experience with the modern geared pegs like the Wittner pegs? I am restoring a viola and I would like to keep the old tailpiece without fine tuners, but instead use the geared pegs. Can you use the same peg hole reamer on the violin as on the viola, or do they have different angles?
I have experience with the Wittner gear pegs. they work good and are reliable but you feel the gear, turning step by step. Looking for other pegs but haven't found anything yet.
I prefer very simple pegs. Ebony, oval, with a small ring at the base. A white dot or mother of pearl is ok, too, but the little balls at the end of some pegs seem to break off very often and that can be difficult to replace. I see a lot of violins with one or more missing. Do you know a trick for that? If so, please demonstrate some time.
Mostly the small balls are not part of the peg (especially when it is another color that the peg) but are glued in place. You can buy them but often by 50 or 100 son it's not interesting for a player that misses only one. Sometimes violin makers have some spare ones.
Hello, what is a diameter of each "entry" hole? I have two hole shaver and yesterday I realized that the biggest hole entry is cca 8mm in diameter on my shaver which is too small. I have old violin where I wanted to replace the pegs and the diameter of the hole on the violin is already over 8mm, cca 8.3 :(
That is a bit the problem when the holes are too big: your tools don't fit anymore! One another violin, where the holes where even bigger I used the peg reamer and shaper for the cello.
@@maestrokimon Geared pegs tend to be even more accurate cause this means you no longer need fine tuners on that tailpiece & that'll allow the instrument to vibrate more freely. Geared tuners are Basically Pegs & Fine tuners all in one piece & eventually the client who owns this Instrument could considor switching to planetary perection pegs due to how much easier it is to tune up. Stringing up w/ Planetery Perfection pegs is easier than you think cause they're locking tuners.
@@maestrokimon Then again, I'd much prefer geared tuners cause this means you no longer need fine tuners on that tailpiece & that'll allow it to vibrate more freely.
I've been thinking about your problem with youtube. You should do some comparison videos: different ways to do a certain job, different tools to do it, why you prefer one over the other. I also wonder why you didn't fill the screw holes in the peg box.
It's a real shame the client wanted to change the pegs. The old ones look really cool and are very unusual. I wonder why it went out of fashion. Quite often violins now have the fine tuners at the bottom of the strings but with these it might not be necessary.
Kimon, I am just abut to reverse an existing violin headstock to left hand. Any advice? I have bought some new pegs which are thicker than the existing ones and I do have a reamer ready to spring into action.
My advice is not to do it! Playing the violin (viola or cello) the other way round will limit your possibilities to play with others. As you have to learn two things that are equal difficult as important (using the bow and playing the notes) there is no advantage being left or right and playing the instrument on this way o the other. As you don't convert your car if you are a lefty because you wont be able to use the road anymore!
maestro-Kimon Kimon, I was asking for technical advice rather than whether to do it or not! The violin is already reversed an I AM going to learn lefty! I already play guitar lefty so picking another string instrument in the other hand just ain’t gonna happen! I just need advice on reversing the pegs as they have not been done yet.
I can't think about something in particular. In January I will publish a video about how to close and reopen the peg-holes. Keep in mind the you should also swipe the soundpost and base-bar as the strings will be put from right to left instead than left to right.
Thank you for your kind words! The edge diameter of the reamer is 5,5mm so I used a 6mm dril bit. You can see my video about the tools here: th-cam.com/video/utYue9IDoxo/w-d-xo.html
Maestro, facci un video dove ci mostri come sostituire una corda. E' terribilmente difficile avvolgerla attorno al bischero in modo che non si srotoli da sola, nel tempo. Grazie
It's hard to fix put a new peg on your instrument on your own as you need tools that cost more than €200,- I think that the price is reasonable. Where do you leave?
I don't know Michael! It's not only functionality, it's also appearance, and influence on the sound. There are other solutions that look better and are lighter. Did you see my videos on the Wittenr and Knilling pegs?
I definitely like the new pegs that you shaped and installed. I wish it were that easy for me to do that. I'd change my pegs today if I could do it myself without fear of failure and ruination of my violin.
Too clever, Maestro! Watching your artist's hands while working is a joy for our eyes. Great!
Always enjoyable and very informative and educational . Ave Kimon the violinists salute you
Hi Kimon! Thank you so much for all your videos! I just did a set of pegs and followed your teachings on this topic step by step and I am very pleased with how they came out! I have been watching you and all your videos for a few months now and I am starting my first Violin build using the same maker of the model you are video taping except mine will be The Messiah model! Thanks again and soon I will become a contributing patron to you and your teachings! Best Regards, Kurt
Thank you for your kind words Kurt. Enjoy the journey of making your own instrument!
Nice job. Yes the new pegs are nice but i found the old system quite interesting and i felt was very professionally installed as well. Anyway just wanted to say you do excellent work and i think your videos are some of the best on TH-cam
That old system is ingenious and works very good. But is not the traditional one so people don't wont it.
Thank you for your king wards!
I loved the old pegs and if they were original on the instrument I am a bit sad to see them replaced. That said, if the functionality for the player improved with the new ones and otherwise there was no difference, that is more important. Thank you very much for the video.
Very informative. I was thinking about getting some rosewood fittings for my violin and decided to do some research. Glad I didn't just buy them, because I didn't realize all these special tools were required to fit them.
Good to hear that my video was helpful to you in some way! The best is to bring your violin to a luthier. Also be careful with rosewood as it is a protected wood since a couple of years.
the new ones are beautiful.
Thank you!
@@maestrokimon There are geared pegs.
very nice! I like the pegs you installed, they have a nice ornamental head to them. Looking forward to your next violin making video!
Thank you! I Also like the heart model pegs. Next Violin making video, begging of October!
@@maestrokimon How did it sound after you changed them out ?
I have watched all of your videos and found them extremely informative and enjoyable. I have been restoring a dead violin for a few months now (lockdown hobby!) and I am about to cut the the new pegs (that's why I am revisiting some episodes). Many thanks for you help!!!
Good to hear that you enjoy my videos Stephan. All the best with your project.
@@maestrokimon All done now and the violin is about to be tested by a professional player... fingers crossed! :)
i like rosewood it is soft and feel like butter once you put the compound
very good video and so good to see a good workshop -- harry farmer
Thank you Harry!
Great job, Kimon!
Lina Petrauskiene thank you!
Great Video Maestro Kimon. Well explained. I'm working on renewing cello pegs today and have seen your video on the cello peg box.
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative. Thanks!
very educational!
Definitely the new pegs.
Nicely done. I want to drill out my peg holes. Glue in bushings. Then re bore new holes and fit new pegs.
Thank you! good luck with your pegs!
Great video! Would be really fun to see you change the bridge on a violin! Thanks for good content!
Thank you! I will consider making a video on this topic.
I way much preferred the old ones.
Looked robust, and like they were trying to fix loose peg problems.
Like I can see that being something someone would make a business idea.
I'm interested in the proper location of the string hole for each peg if different.
thank you for the informative video.
Very nice video really. I like all of your videos. Very informative video.
Thank you so much for your kind feedback!
The Guitar Style Mechanical Violin pegs are what you'll see on the Violins in a Hupfeld Phonolist Violina.
I’ve never seen those original pegs before😲
I also don't see theme that often...
good job, congratulations
Thank you!
Muchas gracias maestro
You are welcome!
Good jobb! Than you for this amazing video.Best regards
Thank you for your kind words!
you know your stuff man lv vids
Thank you very much for your kind words!
Are there different thicknesses of pegs available? Do you change progressively to thicker and thicker pegs then as the pegbox holes wear down? How do you know when you need bushings? How do you make the bushings? What is the best depth to start with and why are the peg blanks so much longer to start out with?
Yeah I need new pegs
The original Mechanical pegs look like Standard friction pegs as well as the new ones.
Thanks my friend
Thank you for watching!
Nice Kimon, but all these videos to miss how to match up the exact shaping of the pegs to the reamer, and is the reamer ever placed inside the shaper to achieve the profile? Videos of peg fitting always seem to miss that part out? Thanks.
if based solely on looks though, i think boxwood definitely looks the nicest.
Boxwood fittings look indeed very nice!
what are the right positions for each hole of each peg at minute 6:30 ...I got a new set of pegs in blank and I would like to know where exactly make the holes. My violin is 3/4
For the G and E peg in the middle, the D one millimeter of center to the right and the A one millimeter of center to the left. Also for 3/4 size.
How far should the new Peg protrude from the opposite side. Is it flush with the Peg Box side or does it stick out a bit. Also should the drill bit size be 1/16th for the Peg hole. Thanks.
I always put theme flush with the pegbox.
Maestro, how did the violin sound with those old pegs?
There was no real difference in the sound before and after the repair.
Maestro,
I read not to use the peg reamer to enlarge the holes to get the peg to fit @ 4:40? Why didn't you use the peg shaver to fit the peg to final fitment?
The peg reamer is much more precise.
Maestro,
I would think you would only want to enlarge the holes as a last resort or very fine tuning. At some point of replacing pegs and constantly reaming the holes they would become too large. Ideally you wouldn't be replacing them often, but it might save someone else a lot of work in the future.
Also, if you mess up on a peg you can easily get a new one, if you mess up on the hole you got a lot more work to do.
Maybe shave the peg as close as you can, then use the peg reamer to get the perfect fit. I'm sure after doing it many times you would get the feel of your peg shaver and get a closer fit and reduce the amount wood you would be taking out of peg holes with the peg reamer.
Great content! Just wondering if you could one day make a video about bridges (brands, selection, fitting)?
Thank you for your kind words! It's in the planning!
What's the difference between peg paste & peg soap?
Maestro-Kimon very nice demonstration of replacing the pegs. Do the holes in the pegs have to be aligned precisely with the strings spacing?
Thank you Haimteicher! I don't think that I understand your question. Can you explain what you mean?
@@maestrokimon The holes for the strings that you showed drilling in the pegs, I thought, have to be carefully marked and drilled to be aligned with the string grooves at the end piece of the fingerboard.
I just thought that it was important.
I see, now I understand! The first two pegs (G and E) have to be drilled in the middle, the D 1mm to the right (towards the tremble) and the A 1mm to the left (towards the bas).
@@maestrokimon Thank you very much this is very helpful
Thank you for the very clear instructions. Do you have experience with the modern geared pegs like the Wittner pegs? I am restoring a viola and I would like to keep the old tailpiece without fine tuners, but instead use the geared pegs. Can you use the same peg hole reamer on the violin as on the viola, or do they have different angles?
I have experience with the Wittner gear pegs. they work good and are reliable but you feel the gear, turning step by step. Looking for other pegs but haven't found anything yet.
@@maestrokimon You found them! th-cam.com/video/RAhw9kxEcUE/w-d-xo.html
I prefer very simple pegs. Ebony, oval, with a small ring at the base. A white dot or mother of pearl is ok, too, but the little balls at the end of some pegs seem to break off very often and that can be difficult to replace. I see a lot of violins with one or more missing. Do you know a trick for that? If so, please demonstrate some time.
Mostly the small balls are not part of the peg (especially when it is another color that the peg) but are glued in place. You can buy them but often by 50 or 100 son it's not interesting for a player that misses only one. Sometimes violin makers have some spare ones.
Hello, what is a diameter of each "entry" hole? I have two hole shaver and yesterday I realized that the biggest hole entry is cca 8mm in diameter on my shaver which is too small. I have old violin where I wanted to replace the pegs and the diameter of the hole on the violin is already over 8mm, cca 8.3 :(
That is a bit the problem when the holes are too big: your tools don't fit anymore! One another violin, where the holes where even bigger I used the peg reamer and shaper for the cello.
Are the new Pegs friction pegs or Geared? Geared pegs never slip
The new pegs are traditional friction pegs, made by a good violin maker never slip!!!!
@@maestrokimon Geared pegs tend to be even more accurate cause this means you no longer need fine tuners on that tailpiece & that'll allow the instrument to vibrate more freely. Geared tuners are Basically Pegs & Fine tuners all in one piece & eventually the client who owns this Instrument could considor switching to planetary perection pegs due to how much easier it is to tune up. Stringing up w/ Planetery Perfection pegs is easier than you think cause they're locking tuners.
@@maestrokimon Then again, I'd much prefer geared tuners cause this means you no longer need fine tuners on that tailpiece & that'll allow it to vibrate more freely.
Tools needed? $20 for reamer, $30 for peg carver, $50+ for dremel with tools to cut, drill, grind and sand.
Do you drill the holes in a line or stagger them according to the string position on the fretboard?.
Great vid as usual!
The holes are never in line. They are ta the center of the width with the D 1mm lower and the A 1mm higher.
I like the pegs you installed. I did not like the looks of the ones you removed. Did you have to fill the screw holes ?
Yes I did but forgot to film it!
The old tuning pegs were cool looking, but not very convenient. Good for a wall-hanger violin, but not a playing one.
Very professionals, but in home conditions, I don't have all those instruments
I've been thinking about your problem with youtube. You should do some comparison videos: different ways to do a certain job, different tools to do it, why you prefer one over the other.
I also wonder why you didn't fill the screw holes in the peg box.
Thank you for the support and the suggestion of other topics.
I did fill the screw holes, only forgot to film that part!!!!!!
You can sell that old outfit on Ebay. Some people collect things like that. I'd guess $50 for the whole set.
The instrument wasn't mine so I gave it back together with the pegs.
It's a real shame the client wanted to change the pegs. The old ones look really cool and are very unusual. I wonder why it went out of fashion. Quite often violins now have the fine tuners at the bottom of the strings but with these it might not be necessary.
How did you fill the holes left by the screws?
I used some glue with wood dust.
where did you put the holes on the pegs?
Sorry, I don't understand your question.
Kimon, I am just abut to reverse an existing violin headstock to left hand.
Any advice? I have bought some new pegs which are thicker than the existing ones and I do have a reamer ready to spring into action.
My advice is not to do it! Playing the violin (viola or cello) the other way round will limit your possibilities to play with others. As you have to learn two things that are equal difficult as important (using the bow and playing the notes) there is no advantage being left or right and playing the instrument on this way o the other. As you don't convert your car if you are a lefty because you wont be able to use the road anymore!
maestro-Kimon Kimon, I was asking for technical advice rather than whether to do it or not!
The violin is already reversed an I AM going to learn lefty! I already play guitar lefty so picking another string instrument in the other hand just ain’t gonna happen!
I just need advice on reversing the pegs as they have not been done yet.
I can't think about something in particular. In January I will publish a video about how to close and reopen the peg-holes. Keep in mind the you should also swipe the soundpost and base-bar as the strings will be put from right to left instead than left to right.
My violin hole getting bigger what should I do?? :(
You should go to a violin-maker!
What size drill bits did you use? Awesome job on those pegs. Also, where can someone get those tools like the reamer or sharpeners?
Thank you for your kind words! The edge diameter of the reamer is 5,5mm so I used a 6mm dril bit. You can see my video about the tools here:
th-cam.com/video/utYue9IDoxo/w-d-xo.html
Maestro, facci un video dove ci mostri come sostituire una corda.
E' terribilmente difficile avvolgerla attorno al bischero in modo che non si srotoli da sola, nel tempo.
Grazie
Grazie per il suggerimento Marco. Forse qualcosa per un prossimo video.
how do you know how much distance there must be between the pegbox and the peghead?
thx ;)
The distance between the begbox and the first ring on the schaft of the peg must be 12,5mm for a 4/4 violin.
@@maestrokimon thank you very much. 🤗please let me ask one more question: how is it with a viola (15,2”, 38,8cm) or is there a calculation formular?
I woud do about the same, maybe 13mm. There is no calculation formula.
@@maestrokimon thank you very much! 🙏🏼
are there specific pegs to use on different strings?
No! When you buy a set of pegs you can fit any peg in any hole (with the appropriate tools).
Hellos sir, how much do you charge for this job on a standard violin?
Sorry but I don't share prices in the comments. If you need a quotation for a repair or want some advice you can send me an e-mail.
Me: um my peg just fell out and I needed it back in * sad noises*
Just put it back!!! did you lose it?
my peg broke and i am said to spent 50 euros and more to get it fixed, i want to fix it by myself, is it possible?
It's hard to fix put a new peg on your instrument on your own as you need tools that cost more than €200,- I think that the price is reasonable. Where do you leave?
@@maestrokimon I live in Finland, Helsinki. But thank you nonetheless for your answer.
I see. That's not so close to me!!!
@@maestrokimon I figured ;D
Violinist , Violists and Cellists just join the rest of the string instrument world and have geared tuners its much better.
I don't know Michael! It's not only functionality, it's also appearance, and influence on the sound. There are other solutions that look better and are lighter. Did you see my videos on the Wittenr and Knilling pegs?