I am a researcher working with material science. For 2 weeks I've been trying to learn about epoxy coatings, and I've not learned from research papers as much as I have learned from your 10 mins videos. Thank you !
Most whitepapers seem to be written by space aliens, not written in an empathic or human way for beginners or newbie researchers to understand well. Mostly it seems papers for experts written by experts.
@@AlumiliteCorporation Which resin would be best to protect car interior dash/panels that would work on a wide range of surface materials like plastic & wood?
I like your video. It’s very informative and helpful. My only problem is when you flipped the white board and stopped using the terms the way you had used them in the first part, I got confused. I know this was because you’re using the names of your products instead, but my brain has a hard time keeping track without the continuity. I appreciate the good information!
Another amazing video. You really know how to deliver these. I certainly want to understand more about hardness, especially considering that not everyone uses the same scale.
Ohhhh my!!! If only all TH-cam informative videos were made by you! Your style is perfect and your helpful-'to the point' are the best on TH-cam ---> BAR NONE ! THANK YOU!
New to epoxy after falling in love with a diorama artist. Thought I should check out safety and other things first and glad I did. Excellent helpful informative content. Thanks heaps.
What would you recommend for a 1/2" board with small cracks and a knot? Bought go all the way through the wood. Going to cover the whole board with TT epoxy after filling the cracks and and knot. This is for a charcuterie board.
I have a bean mosaic table that I am just finishing. Since there are different depths because of different beans in the design, I need your help. The top is attached to the base so I know I would need to collar when I resin the top. I'd like to know if I should brush the first coat. After watching your videos it seems the the ACC+ would be the best epoxy for a project like this? It is 24" in diameter & not sure how much I will need. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have spent months on this project. I don't want to wreck it & hope to do more like it. Thanks & great info!
Your bean mosaic table sounds amazing! 🌟 It’s clear you've put a lot of love and time into this project, so let’s make sure your resin finish is just as beautiful. Here’s how to tackle this step-by-step: 1. Choosing the Right Epoxy Yes, you're right-Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast Plus (ACC+) is an excellent choice for this kind of project. It’s known for its durable, crystal-clear finish and enhanced UV resistance, which will help preserve your table's design and colors. 🌈✨ 2. First Coat Strategy Starting with a brushed-on seal coat is a great idea. This first thin coat helps to lock in the different elements and reduces the chances of air bubbles escaping during the main pour. Here's what to do: Mix a small batch of ACC+ according to the directions (1:1 by volume). Brush a thin layer over the surface, making sure it reaches into all the nooks and crannies between the beans. This will act as a sealant and create an even surface for the next layer. Allow this coat to partially cure (become tacky) before applying the main pour. This step is key for preventing floating or displacement of the beans. 3. Creating a Resin Barrier (Collar) Since your table top is already attached to the base, a collar is essential for containing the resin: Use a flexible material like acetate sheets or painter’s tape to create a barrier around the edge. Secure it well with tape or clamps to prevent leaks. Make sure the collar extends at least 1/2" above the highest point of the mosaic to accommodate the resin's height. 4. Calculating the Resin Volume For a 24" diameter table, the amount of resin needed depends on the depth you’re pouring. Here’s a rough estimate: Seal coat: For the first brushed coat, you’ll only need about 2-4 ounces. Flood coat: To cover the entire surface with a depth of about 1/8" (which is typical for an even coating), you’d need approximately 16-20 ounces of mixed resin. Calculation Tip: Use the following formula for deeper pours: 5. Final Pours and Finishing Once the seal coat is tacky, prepare your larger batch for the flood coat. Pour slowly in a spiral pattern from the center outwards. This helps reduce trapped air. Use a heat gun or torch to pop any bubbles on the surface. Move it gently across the surface, about 2-3 inches above, to avoid overheating. Extra Tips: Work in a dust-free area to ensure the finish remains pristine. Wear gloves and protective gear to stay safe while handling the resin. Your table is sure to turn out beautiful with these steps! 🌟 If you have any more questions or need more tips, don't hesitate to reach out. We’re cheering you on as you finish this masterpiece! 🏆✨ For more guidance or support, feel free to call us at (269) 488-4000 or email info@alumilite.com. Good luck, and we can’t wait to hear how it turns out! 😊
Great information. Thanks QUESTION What makes a resin food safe? I see some resins touting the fact that they are food safe. Are there any resins that are not food safe or are there things to look for to ensure a resin is food safe?
Here's the thing. I want to make one single small project, and according to this video I would need AQC and ADP for that (seal the wood, then pour ~1,5cm). Is it possible to seal the wood with ADP and just wait a little longer? Or do you have to use AQC for that? Because having 1 type of epoxy lying around is one thing, but I don't want to have an entire shelf full of materials for this one project By the way, AMAZING video!!
I'm considering a deep pour epoxy on vertical timbers with backlighting drilled from back to the crevice of the cured epoxy. Q1: what's the best epoxy for light conduction? Q2: best epoxy for no run over years? Q3 is there a good epoxy for this or should I be looking at acrylics? My plan is to backlight with a light interrupting wheel that may give the illuminated resin the look of water flow. Thank you, im just beginning
If you are using two different types of deep pour for example; one a 2:1 mix ratio and one a 3:1 mix ratio can you pour one over the other when the first pour is in the gel stage?
Another attribute that you should consider is high temp resistance. Epoxies are available that resist heat up to 500 degrees, and are used for countertops (put a hot pan on it) or for coasters and/or trivets. Most epoxies are only good up to about 140 degrees F., before they start to soften.
Sadly there isn't a way to recycle epoxy but there are a lot of habits you can implement into your making-process to minimize the amount of waste you create with your art. We highly recommend checking out @fantasyfigments on Instagram - she has some great tips for reducing waste in her "Process" highlight!
Thank you my friend Excellent explanation, your video is very useful. I'm wondering: how can I identify the products that suppliers sell so I can classify them within their chart because I noticed that those names appear on some product labels but not on others? Again, thank you very much.
This is extremely helpful! Thanks so much for this 😃 I paint wood with acrylic paint and cover it with resin. Currently I use UV resin but I noticed after it cures there’s this weird thing happening between the paint & resin where it looks like they’ve separated. I hope that made sense. I’ll have to try your AQC.
i think after all this detail ! we know how to make rocket,, i mean tons of information i m glad you made it a very friendly presentation which was my favorite,, thanks god you didn't act like a high profile CEO during explanation,, thank you very much,,, i love your presentation method , simple and down to earth mood. ,,,, regards
So I hope you can help. I purchased the ACC epoxy to do a photo casting. But the mold is a 5x7 with a 2-inch depth. Can I pour a 3/8 depth, let it harden, and pour another 3/8 "
This is a great question! We have an epoxy safety video on our channel but we highly recommend talking with a medical professional before working with chemicals while you're pregnant.
Hi , I made this flexible strip of "ribbon" with epoxy and glitter and Swarovski "rocks" using a long silicone tray (cut later) ... I attempted to repeat it today and now I can't get the ratio of A&B perfect to make it flexible. I may also be using a different type of resin, but I'm pretty sure it was ice resin because I need the backing to be clear. I'm not sure what the heck I'm doing wrong and I'm hoping you can help me!! Also if my two cents mean anything, I love the sciencey stuff!! Thanks for all you do ❤
What epoxy you recommend to do carbon fiber part repair for a spoiler of a vehicle. I need to have high UV resistance, but will it work well with Carbon Fiber or is there a different product to use?
I used Alumilite to fill nail holes in a pallet wood cutting board. I mixed it perfectly and it bubbled up and cured with millions of holes, like styrofoam.
It sounds like the resin you used to fill the nail holes in your pallet wood cutting board experienced excessive bubbling and trapped air during the curing process. There are several reasons why this might have happened: Possible Causes: Moisture in the Wood: Pallet wood, especially if it hasn't been properly dried or sealed, can contain moisture. When resin comes into contact with moisture, it can create bubbles or a foamy texture as it cures. Temperature and Humidity: High humidity or low temperatures during the resin mixing and curing process can cause air bubbles to form and get trapped. If the resin or the wood was too cold, the resin might not have flowed properly, leading to air bubbles. Improper Mixing: Even though you mentioned mixing the resin perfectly, if there was any error in the resin-to-hardener ratio or if the components were not thoroughly mixed, it could result in improper curing. This can also introduce air bubbles. Type of Resin Used: Some resins are more prone to air bubbles, especially if they are not designed specifically for filling gaps or voids in wood. The wrong type of resin may not have the necessary properties to self-level and release trapped air effectively.
Recommended Resin: Alumilite Amazing Deep Pour: This resin is specifically formulated for deeper pours and gap filling. It has a very low viscosity, which helps minimize the formation of bubbles and allows them to escape easily during the curing process. With a longer open time, it also provides ample time for air bubbles to rise to the surface and dissipate before the resin begins to cure, making it ideal for projects that involve filling voids or gaps like nail holes. Additional Tips: Seal the Wood First: Apply a thin coat of resin or another wood sealer to the cutting board to create a barrier that prevents air and moisture from the wood from entering the resin. Use a Heat Gun or Torch: After pouring, use a heat gun or torch to gently heat the surface, which helps to pop any remaining bubbles. Pour in Layers if Needed: If the nail holes are particularly deep, consider pouring the resin in layers, allowing each layer to partially cure before adding the next. This can help reduce bubble formation.
Hi Kandie! Those applications typically dip into our urethane resins (Alumilite Clear, Clear Slow) but Amazing Clear Cast epoxy and Amazing Deep Pour epoxy can be used for blanks as well - they just take much longer to cure than your typical urethane resin.
Great video! nice info but still not sure what kind of epoxy I can use to cover a cigar ashtray. Any advice? I need a high temperature resistance on that resin as the cigar can bring a 500-700 C deg temperatures. I searched the internet but can't find any real info. Your advice is very much appreciated. Thanks!
Great video, amazing host (except for the "like" "subscribe" thing they make you say every single time). Am confused as to why the huge art supplies chain store (Michael's) was selling only your quirk cast type of epoxy but not ACC or ACC+. Can i really not pour this one thicker than 1/8th in a small silicone mold? Can't do anything very artful. I was planning on trying to mimic stained glass sheets but not if it's going to yellow pretty quickly. I would have thought that one is more suited to a hardware store or woodworking supply store and they should have the ACC line
Amazing Clear Cast (ACC) and ACC+ are available at Michael's and other local retailers! Both of these resins are perfect for thicker pours and offer better UV protection, making them ideal for projects like the stained glass look you're aiming for. ACC+ has added UV resistance, so it’s particularly suited for long-lasting, crystal-clear finishes. If you don’t see them at your local Michael’s, you can always check online! Our products are in Joann's, Lowes, Dick Blick, Rockler, Walmart and Hobby Lobby!
Great video.. Does the quick cast cure at a constant rate or more like not much then all at once? I ask because I want an 1/8 inch coat over an uneven surface....ocean diorama.
I am making a 6 feet, 3/8inch thick, 20inch diameter cylindrical transparent aquarium to be kept outside under the sun, it gets up to 50 celsius from where I am from. Is it advisable for me to make this out of UV resistant resin. Or should I be using some other material?
What kind of respirator would you recommend for sanding a piece with an epoxy river pour? I want to make sure we get the kind that will handle that fine of a particle. Thanks
Great video you break it down nicely & make it not quite so intimidating!! I don't know if I missed some information somewhere in this or not, but I'm wondering about heat. UVis right out in the open & easy to understand but sis I miss info on which ones are best in f heat might be a factor? Not like super hot...I'm talking coasters for drinks. I have heard so many artists complain that even after weeks of curing they have issues with stickiness if a hot cup of coffee is places on a coaster! I understand than some are probably inexperienced folks that maybe didn't mix properly, but not all of them. I have a commission to do for kitchen tile & I want to make sure there aren't any heat issues. Which do you recommend for heat protection on tile?!?
very informative . does any one know what would be the best type of resin to bond laminate sheets of plywood together in a mould for making skateboards. lm looking for a strong but flexible bonding with the ply but don't want to use pva glues as they can be brittle. ant one have any idea
Hello, I’m new to this epoxy thing, I’m trying to build a bar in my basement, and the bartender counter top Ill to make it of 3/4” plywood, but I’ll like to know what epoxy to lay on top ! I’ll try to make it look like marvel, any recommendations are welcome
Is Epoxy resin mixed with cellulose fiber sheet ideal for jalousie slat making? does expoxy can withstand the heat index here in the philippines approximately heat index here reaches about 43 celsius
please where do small projects like jewelries, coasters, trays etc fall on this spectrum please. this is a question I've been trying to answer for a while, your response will make my dayyy!!
Great question! For all of the projects you mentioned, our Amazing Clear Cast will work really well (Amazing Clear Cast Plus if you are extra concerned about UV rays)! But for the really small projects, like jewelry and keychains, our Amazing Quick Coat will save you loads of time and work just as well!
I am making lamps, and I need a resin that doesn't break easily, something that I can pigment but lets light shine trough it, the lamps are thin like 1 or 2 mm thickness, and it has to harden quickly in case I want to make many in a day or two, what would you suggest?
I'm looking at doing a bar top outside I see I will need the ACC+ this bar will not be covered it will be directly in the elements and we do have hot summer (110°F) and cold winters (-20°F) so my question would be how would Is temperature affected and about how long before the UV take a toll on it based off your experience?
hi, I am planning to do sidewalk tiles with led. I gonna use epoxy. They'll be installed on sidewalks at outside. Uv-resistant epoxy resins are hard to find in my country, I googled at internet everybody suggests I have to use spar ( yacht ) varnish. So how about your opinion about applying spar varnish over cured epoxy. Does it work? my tiles will be colored also, they'll not be crystal clear.
Thanks for this! So for casting, I'm trying to understand how to interpret the "depth" numbers. Does this mean epoxies (specifically Deep Pour) shouldn't be used in molds with over a 2" vertical depth? Similarly, 3/8" seems like a really shallow mold. I've been using polyurethanes up till now, and I'm thinking about expanding into epoxies, but these numbers seem kind of limiting. How easy is it to get around these limits with successive layers? Thanks!
Great questions Brian! Unfortunately depth limitations on their own are very difficult to say "this is the exact way to do this." What really matters is the mass of the pour - so for something like a river table or cutting board with Deep Pour, you'll never want to pour over 2 inches or you'll get a large exothermic reaction. Same with ACC and 3/8inch. Filling something like a coaster mold will be no problem with epoxy. Larger molds do work better with Deep Pour, etc. Happy to help clarify further if needed!
I'm trying to repair my Lava me3 guitar that fell off the strap. It's made of a carbon fiber composite. Due to the constant string tension, which type of resin is best? Much appreciated for any advice.
Do you think that the acc+will work ok for coating poly clay jewelry?. I got your 16 oz kit and I cant wait to try it. I can let stuff sit, but the costs will be thin. Still think it's good? I wanted the extra uv protection to prevent yellowing from wear
One more question; tell me about expansion and heat. Can we fill really deep voids all in one pour? How hot does it get? Will it expand out of the container?
Great question! When you're working with deep voids and large epoxy pours, it's essential to consider the heat generated during the curing process. Epoxy resins, especially in large volumes, undergo an exothermic reaction-meaning they release heat as they cure. If you pour a lot of resin at once (especially with deep pours), the reaction can get quite hot, sometimes reaching temperatures well over 200°F (93°C)! In these situations, the heat can cause several issues: Overheating and Cracking: The heat can build up too fast, causing the epoxy to crack or even distort your project. Foaming or Expansion: Excess heat can lead to expansion or foaming, causing the resin to rise out of the mold or container. This can leave behind unwanted bubbles or surface irregularities. ⚠ Fumes: At high temperatures, epoxy can release fumes, so it's always a good idea to work in a well-ventilated area or wear a respirator for safety. To avoid these problems, we recommend breaking large pours into multiple thinner layers, especially for deep voids or large surface areas. It allows each layer to cool properly, minimizing heat buildup and ensuring a controlled, solid cure. If you want to do deeper pours, there are deep pour resins specifically designed to handle thicker layers, with slower curing times to manage the heat. Just be sure to follow the product's thickness guidelines carefully
I mixed one to one forgot to read the mixing amounts, did not cure I had poured other epoxy that was already Pre measures bottles had no problems Can I pour new epoxy over the wrong Batch of shed floor and will it harden Right . The bad batch was one gallon Resin and one gallon hardener my fought ok I’m an edit. Or do I have to Remove the bad pour and I what chemicals to use. What type of Respirator do you recommend ?
This video was absolutely 100%free of any and all forms of bullshit. As well as encouragement to like the video; only if the viewer genuinely likes it.
Absolutely loving your videos! I am working on a project where I need to make Epoxy art in the shape of long cylinders that are around 0.5 to 2 inch in diameter and 2-3 feet in length. Can you suggest me what kind of epoxy should be considered for such small diameter and lengths? I have the creative freedom and might use bonding with small wooden chunks as well
How long after pouring 1/8 inch of the the AQC epoxy can I add another layer? And you mentioned ADP avoids exotherming turning the epoxy yellow and gross. Does exotherming do anything other than discolor the material? Will the material be significantly weaker?
You are the epoxy guru on YT and if you are still active, I am wondering if you can suggest a readily available epoxy that will have very low shrinkage. I am working with tight tolerances so it should also be abrasion resistant. Thank you.
I want to make epoxy figures, paint them and sell them. Is there a suitable mold material that I can pour them into? Just like making a clay sculpture, taking its mold and then pouring plaster into that mold. But it will be epoxy instead of plaster.
For small projects like pendants and jewelry you can typically get away with using Amazing Quick Coat but if you want to play it safe then Amazing Clear Cast will be the way to go!
When pouring resin on rough wood for a table, does the wood need to be processed any specific way to ensure that it does not pull away from the resin when it is finished?
I have the same question as Charles and would also like to know if there are any wood stain products (Minwax?) that are compatible as a base? I'm working on a bar top bar top with collectible fibre board coasters embedded. GREAT VIDEOS!!
I am a researcher working with material science. For 2 weeks I've been trying to learn about epoxy coatings, and I've not learned from research papers as much as I have learned from your 10 mins videos. Thank you !
Glad to help!
Is it possible to cast epoxy using topology optimization , generative design
Most whitepapers seem to be written by space aliens, not written in an empathic or human way for beginners or newbie researchers to understand well. Mostly it seems papers for experts written by experts.
@@AlumiliteCorporation Which resin would be best to protect car interior dash/panels that would work on a wide range of surface materials like plastic & wood?
He's the goat!!! I have to return a bunch of uv epoxy and things cause I know I now need liquid polyurethane for the project I'm doing
This is the most helpful explanation of resin that I have ever seen! GREAT Job!
I like your video. It’s very informative and helpful. My only problem is when you flipped the white board and stopped using the terms the way you had used them in the first part, I got confused. I know this was because you’re using the names of your products instead, but my brain has a hard time keeping track without the continuity. I appreciate the good information!
Another amazing video. You really know how to deliver these. I certainly want to understand more about hardness, especially considering that not everyone uses the same scale.
That's a great point, Jerry! We'll look into it and see what we can do!
Ohhhh my!!! If only all TH-cam informative videos were made by you! Your style is perfect and your helpful-'to the point' are the best on TH-cam ---> BAR NONE ! THANK YOU!
This is high praise, Steven! Thank you for watching!
You are a fantastic teacher !! Thank you !!
Just ordered my first epoxy (2 gallons). I’ll give it a try. Your videos are funny but informative!
New to epoxy after falling in love with a diorama artist. Thought I should check out safety and other things first and glad I did. Excellent helpful informative content. Thanks heaps.
BTW - I share your videos in my groups to help newbies. I especially like to share this one and your resin safety video. Thank you for them.
What an incredible analogy!!! Well done!
What would you recommend for a 1/2" board with small cracks and a knot? Bought go all the way through the wood. Going to cover the whole board with TT epoxy after filling the cracks and and knot. This is for a charcuterie board.
I have a bean mosaic table that I am just finishing. Since there are different depths because of different beans in the design, I need your help. The top is attached to the base so I know I would need to collar when I resin the top. I'd like to know if I should brush the first coat. After watching your videos it seems the the ACC+ would be the best epoxy for a project like this?
It is 24" in diameter & not sure how much I will need. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have spent months on this project. I don't want to wreck it & hope to do more like it.
Thanks & great info!
Your bean mosaic table sounds amazing! 🌟 It’s clear you've put a lot of love and time into this project, so let’s make sure your resin finish is just as beautiful. Here’s how to tackle this step-by-step:
1. Choosing the Right Epoxy
Yes, you're right-Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast Plus (ACC+) is an excellent choice for this kind of project. It’s known for its durable, crystal-clear finish and enhanced UV resistance, which will help preserve your table's design and colors. 🌈✨
2. First Coat Strategy
Starting with a brushed-on seal coat is a great idea. This first thin coat helps to lock in the different elements and reduces the chances of air bubbles escaping during the main pour. Here's what to do:
Mix a small batch of ACC+ according to the directions (1:1 by volume).
Brush a thin layer over the surface, making sure it reaches into all the nooks and crannies between the beans. This will act as a sealant and create an even surface for the next layer.
Allow this coat to partially cure (become tacky) before applying the main pour. This step is key for preventing floating or displacement of the beans.
3. Creating a Resin Barrier (Collar)
Since your table top is already attached to the base, a collar is essential for containing the resin:
Use a flexible material like acetate sheets or painter’s tape to create a barrier around the edge. Secure it well with tape or clamps to prevent leaks.
Make sure the collar extends at least 1/2" above the highest point of the mosaic to accommodate the resin's height.
4. Calculating the Resin Volume
For a 24" diameter table, the amount of resin needed depends on the depth you’re pouring. Here’s a rough estimate:
Seal coat: For the first brushed coat, you’ll only need about 2-4 ounces.
Flood coat: To cover the entire surface with a depth of about 1/8" (which is typical for an even coating), you’d need approximately 16-20 ounces of mixed resin.
Calculation Tip: Use the following formula for deeper pours:
5. Final Pours and Finishing
Once the seal coat is tacky, prepare your larger batch for the flood coat.
Pour slowly in a spiral pattern from the center outwards. This helps reduce trapped air.
Use a heat gun or torch to pop any bubbles on the surface. Move it gently across the surface, about 2-3 inches above, to avoid overheating.
Extra Tips:
Work in a dust-free area to ensure the finish remains pristine.
Wear gloves and protective gear to stay safe while handling the resin.
Your table is sure to turn out beautiful with these steps! 🌟 If you have any more questions or need more tips, don't hesitate to reach out. We’re cheering you on as you finish this masterpiece! 🏆✨
For more guidance or support, feel free to call us at (269) 488-4000 or email info@alumilite.com. Good luck, and we can’t wait to hear how it turns out! 😊
@@AlumiliteCorporation What a great help..
Should be ordering soon & will finish this project before the Holiday with any luck. You are awesome!
nice informative video, a question from a beginner: can epoxy parts be glued together?
To get a good bond we would recommend using an epoxy glue and buffing the surfaces beforehand.
Wonderful information. Thank you
Which one to buy for making a machine part that will be exposed to 150F heat?
How soon can you do a second layer of epoxy if you are using the clear cast plus?
Are they using Epoxy resin do these rock/stone walkways? And if so, which kind?
Awesome clear and to the point explanation! 👌
Great information. Thanks
QUESTION
What makes a resin food safe?
I see some resins touting the fact that they are food safe. Are there any resins that are not food safe or are there things to look for to ensure a resin is food safe?
I'm using clear cast + one a deep engrave on a cutting board. Is the ok or should I use ACC
Can you do a coat of the quick cast followed up by a coat of clear cast plus?
Here's the thing. I want to make one single small project, and according to this video I would need AQC and ADP for that (seal the wood, then pour ~1,5cm). Is it possible to seal the wood with ADP and just wait a little longer? Or do you have to use AQC for that? Because having 1 type of epoxy lying around is one thing, but I don't want to have an entire shelf full of materials for this one project
By the way, AMAZING video!!
I'm considering a deep pour epoxy on vertical timbers with backlighting drilled from back to the crevice of the cured epoxy. Q1: what's the best epoxy for light conduction? Q2: best epoxy for no run over years? Q3 is there a good epoxy for this or should I be looking at acrylics? My plan is to backlight with a light interrupting wheel that may give the illuminated resin the look of water flow. Thank you, im just beginning
which one would you recommend for 3/4 x 3/4 x 5" pen blanks and can I use ADC with a pressure pot? Thanks.
If you are using two different types of deep pour for example; one a 2:1 mix ratio and one a 3:1 mix ratio can you pour one over the other when the first pour is in the gel stage?
Another attribute that you should consider is high temp resistance. Epoxies are available that resist heat up to 500 degrees, and are used for countertops (put a hot pan on it) or for coasters and/or trivets. Most epoxies are only good up to about 140 degrees F., before they start to soften.
I'm an aspiring artist interested in sustainability with my materials. Are there any suggestions when it comes to recycling epoxy?
Sadly there isn't a way to recycle epoxy but there are a lot of habits you can implement into your making-process to minimize the amount of waste you create with your art. We highly recommend checking out @fantasyfigments on Instagram - she has some great tips for reducing waste in her "Process" highlight!
You can’t recycle, but there are epoxies and curing agents that are made from natural oils and recycled products.
This video really helped me! I want to make a locket with flowers in it so now I know to use the ACC+ for it! Thank you!
Thank you my friend
Excellent explanation, your video is very useful.
I'm wondering: how can I identify the products that suppliers sell so I can classify them within their chart because I noticed that those names appear on some product labels but not on others?
Again, thank you very much.
What kind if epoxy would you use for making like, motorcycle armor or other protective clothing?
Great video mate Which one will best for cricket bat toes ?
Great explaination(s) Sir! Thank You!
Thanks for watching!
This is extremely helpful! Thanks so much for this 😃 I paint wood with acrylic paint and cover it with resin. Currently I use UV resin but I noticed after it cures there’s this weird thing happening between the paint & resin where it looks like they’ve separated. I hope that made sense. I’ll have to try your AQC.
Great video. Have you ever poured a bathroom sink? I would like to do that but looks like it may not be a good idea. Thanks
When can I start sanding my project (tumbler)? What part should I pour first? Because I have heard you pour part B first.
What's the best epoxy for a 5" turtle mold? should I use deep pour for the shell and casting for the fins? or??? thank you for your help ~!
i think after all this detail ! we know how to make rocket,, i mean tons of information i m glad you made it a very friendly presentation which was my favorite,, thanks god you didn't act like a high profile CEO during explanation,, thank you very much,,, i love your presentation method , simple and down to earth mood. ,,,, regards
Will the AQC hold up under the sun outside? I'm assuming it will discolor but will it hold up to weather and lots of sun?
So I hope you can help. I purchased the ACC epoxy to do a photo casting. But the mold is a 5x7 with a 2-inch depth. Can I pour a 3/8 depth, let it harden, and pour another 3/8 "
Hello ! Thanks for the informative video. Just wanna ask if a pregnant women can do resin art with all these precautions?
This is a great question! We have an epoxy safety video on our channel but we highly recommend talking with a medical professional before working with chemicals while you're pregnant.
@@AlumiliteCorporation thank you!
Wonderful
The best teacher
Seriously really good and clear explanation!!
Thanks for the kind words 😄
Hi , I made this flexible strip of "ribbon" with epoxy and glitter and Swarovski "rocks" using a long silicone tray (cut later) ... I attempted to repeat it today and now I can't get the ratio of A&B perfect to make it flexible. I may also be using a different type of resin, but I'm pretty sure it was ice resin because I need the backing to be clear. I'm not sure what the heck I'm doing wrong and I'm hoping you can help me!! Also if my two cents mean anything, I love the sciencey stuff!! Thanks for all you do ❤
im assuming if wanting to wrap carbon fibre over motorcycle plastics i would use the uv resin?
Excellent video! Can I download the info sheet that matches your white board? Pleeeease!
We don't have a digital version but it's a great idea!
hey there, what epxy do you recomend fora snap surfboard??
What epoxy you recommend to do carbon fiber part repair for a spoiler of a vehicle. I need to have high UV resistance, but will it work well with Carbon Fiber or is there a different product to use?
I used Alumilite to fill nail holes in a pallet wood cutting board. I mixed it perfectly and it bubbled up and cured with millions of holes, like styrofoam.
It sounds like the resin you used to fill the nail holes in your pallet wood cutting board experienced excessive bubbling and trapped air during the curing process. There are several reasons why this might have happened:
Possible Causes:
Moisture in the Wood: Pallet wood, especially if it hasn't been properly dried or sealed, can contain moisture. When resin comes into contact with moisture, it can create bubbles or a foamy texture as it cures.
Temperature and Humidity: High humidity or low temperatures during the resin mixing and curing process can cause air bubbles to form and get trapped. If the resin or the wood was too cold, the resin might not have flowed properly, leading to air bubbles.
Improper Mixing: Even though you mentioned mixing the resin perfectly, if there was any error in the resin-to-hardener ratio or if the components were not thoroughly mixed, it could result in improper curing. This can also introduce air bubbles.
Type of Resin Used: Some resins are more prone to air bubbles, especially if they are not designed specifically for filling gaps or voids in wood. The wrong type of resin may not have the necessary properties to self-level and release trapped air effectively.
Recommended Resin:
Alumilite Amazing Deep Pour: This resin is specifically formulated for deeper pours and gap filling. It has a very low viscosity, which helps minimize the formation of bubbles and allows them to escape easily during the curing process. With a longer open time, it also provides ample time for air bubbles to rise to the surface and dissipate before the resin begins to cure, making it ideal for projects that involve filling voids or gaps like nail holes.
Additional Tips:
Seal the Wood First: Apply a thin coat of resin or another wood sealer to the cutting board to create a barrier that prevents air and moisture from the wood from entering the resin.
Use a Heat Gun or Torch: After pouring, use a heat gun or torch to gently heat the surface, which helps to pop any remaining bubbles.
Pour in Layers if Needed: If the nail holes are particularly deep, consider pouring the resin in layers, allowing each layer to partially cure before adding the next. This can help reduce bubble formation.
@@AlumiliteCorporation probably moisture. Sometimes I leave the boards in my truck bed, and they get rained on.
I want to use resin in a small craft, like the size of a ballpoint pen. I need it to maintain its shape, but be slightly soft and bendy to the touch.
Ok, that's good, but, specifically, which epoxy is best for knotholes and/or cracks. Sounds like ACC, but it wasn't mentioned.
Thanks
What is the best epoxy to use for waterproofing 1/2 inch to 1 inch gap in the concrete floor/patio.
Can you use those with carbon fiber or glass fiber ? Also, is it good with heat ?
How about which ones to use for pen blanks, label casting and those type of things?
Hi Kandie! Those applications typically dip into our urethane resins (Alumilite Clear, Clear Slow) but Amazing Clear Cast epoxy and Amazing Deep Pour epoxy can be used for blanks as well - they just take much longer to cure than your typical urethane resin.
THX for these videos! Can AQC be sprayed? via paint sprayer or air compressed sprayer?
Great video! nice info but still not sure what kind of epoxy I can use to cover a cigar ashtray. Any advice? I need a high temperature resistance on that resin as the cigar can bring a 500-700 C deg temperatures. I searched the internet but can't find any real info. Your advice is very much appreciated. Thanks!
ACC for a painted table top? TOP is painted withacrylic paint. THANKS A LOT.
Thanks for this video.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, amazing host (except for the "like" "subscribe" thing they make you say every single time). Am confused as to why the huge art supplies chain store (Michael's) was selling only your quirk cast type of epoxy but not ACC or ACC+. Can i really not pour this one thicker than 1/8th in a small silicone mold? Can't do anything very artful. I was planning on trying to mimic stained glass sheets but not if it's going to yellow pretty quickly. I would have thought that one is more suited to a hardware store or woodworking supply store and they should have the ACC line
Amazing Clear Cast (ACC) and ACC+ are available at Michael's and other local retailers! Both of these resins are perfect for thicker pours and offer better UV protection, making them ideal for projects like the stained glass look you're aiming for. ACC+ has added UV resistance, so it’s particularly suited for long-lasting, crystal-clear finishes.
If you don’t see them at your local Michael’s, you can always check online! Our products are in Joann's, Lowes, Dick Blick, Rockler, Walmart and Hobby Lobby!
What kind is best for fixing carbon fiber cracks?
Can I use the AQC to level my countertop and then the ACC for the actual pour with color or should I sue the ACC for both?
Yes, you can use AQC first and then layer ACC overtop, just make sure to let the AQC cure before adding ACC.
Great video.. Does the quick cast cure at a constant rate or more like not much then all at once? I ask because I want an 1/8 inch coat over an uneven surface....ocean diorama.
Epoxy cures at a constant rate!
I just want to make jewelry and keychains. Which is best? If you need to mix ,how to?
Lots of great info! Just what I was looking for 🤙
Your video was awesome!
What would be best for sticking a marble on a plastic handle that would be heavily used? First time using resin epoxy and im mot sure what to use.
I am making a 6 feet, 3/8inch thick, 20inch diameter cylindrical transparent aquarium to be kept outside under the sun, it gets up to 50 celsius from where I am from. Is it advisable for me to make this out of UV resistant resin. Or should I be using some other material?
Are any of these epoxy good for a thin coating of a cars splitter..just to add more durability and strength to it over a vinyl
What kind of respirator would you recommend for sanding a piece with an epoxy river pour? I want to make sure we get the kind that will handle that fine of a particle. Thanks
Great video you break it down nicely & make it not quite so intimidating!! I don't know if I missed some information somewhere in this or not, but I'm wondering about heat. UVis right out in the open & easy to understand but sis I miss info on which ones are best in f heat might be a factor? Not like super hot...I'm talking coasters for drinks. I have heard so many artists complain that even after weeks of curing they have issues with stickiness if a hot cup of coffee is places on a coaster! I understand than some are probably inexperienced folks that maybe didn't mix properly, but not all of them. I have a commission to do for kitchen tile & I want to make sure there aren't any heat issues. Which do you recommend for heat protection on tile?!?
What epoxy for topcoat on surfboards? I just came across your videos,😊very nice.
very informative . does any one know what would be the best type of resin to bond laminate sheets of plywood together in a mould for making skateboards. lm looking for a strong but flexible bonding with the ply but don't want to use pva glues as they can be brittle. ant one have any idea
Hello, I’m new to this epoxy thing, I’m trying to build a bar in my basement, and the bartender counter top Ill to make it of 3/4” plywood, but I’ll like to know what epoxy to lay on top ! I’ll try to make it look like marvel, any recommendations are welcome
Thanks for your explanation !! U make it fun man 💪💪 and super easy to understand
We're glad you like it!
So helpful! Thank you so much!
Is Epoxy resin mixed with cellulose fiber sheet ideal for jalousie slat making? does expoxy can withstand the heat index here in the philippines approximately heat index here reaches about 43 celsius
please where do small projects like jewelries, coasters, trays etc fall on this spectrum please. this is a question I've been trying to answer for a while, your response will make my dayyy!!
Great question! For all of the projects you mentioned, our Amazing Clear Cast will work really well (Amazing Clear Cast Plus if you are extra concerned about UV rays)! But for the really small projects, like jewelry and keychains, our Amazing Quick Coat will save you loads of time and work just as well!
Can you do multiple 3/8" pours with ACC+ to build up thickness?
Absolutely!
Hello Jordan, does Polycarbonate resin exist for casting? If not, what can be used for space application?
Is small castings considered like coasters, small trays, small silicone molds etc. ?
I am making lamps, and I need a resin that doesn't break easily, something that I can pigment but lets light shine trough it, the lamps are thin like 1 or 2 mm thickness, and it has to harden quickly in case I want to make many in a day or two, what would you suggest?
I'm looking at doing a bar top outside I see I will need the ACC+ this bar will not be covered it will be directly in the elements and we do have hot summer (110°F) and cold winters (-20°F) so my question would be how would Is temperature affected and about how long before the UV take a toll on it based off your experience?
Thanks for such a wornderful informative video. Keep up the good work buddy.
What is the best resin for fiberglass and carbon fiber
hi, I am planning to do sidewalk tiles with led. I gonna use epoxy. They'll be installed on sidewalks at outside. Uv-resistant epoxy resins are hard to find in my country, I googled at internet everybody suggests I have to use spar ( yacht ) varnish. So how about your opinion about applying spar varnish over cured epoxy. Does it work? my tiles will be colored also, they'll not be crystal clear.
Thanks for this! So for casting, I'm trying to understand how to interpret the "depth" numbers. Does this mean epoxies (specifically Deep Pour) shouldn't be used in molds with over a 2" vertical depth? Similarly, 3/8" seems like a really shallow mold. I've been using polyurethanes up till now, and I'm thinking about expanding into epoxies, but these numbers seem kind of limiting. How easy is it to get around these limits with successive layers?
Thanks!
Great questions Brian! Unfortunately depth limitations on their own are very difficult to say "this is the exact way to do this." What really matters is the mass of the pour - so for something like a river table or cutting board with Deep Pour, you'll never want to pour over 2 inches or you'll get a large exothermic reaction. Same with ACC and 3/8inch. Filling something like a coaster mold will be no problem with epoxy. Larger molds do work better with Deep Pour, etc. Happy to help clarify further if needed!
You should be a science teacher,great job. I make concrete benches for outdoor garden which epoxy or resin should I use to coat the top?.
I'm trying to repair my Lava me3 guitar that fell off the strap. It's made of a carbon fiber composite. Due to the constant string tension, which type of resin is best? Much appreciated for any advice.
Would there be any problems useing a deep pour on a 1 in pour
Nope!
I need a product that has similar properties as PLA used in 3D printing (Hardness and Impact resistance) what do you recommend?
Do you think that the acc+will work ok for coating poly clay jewelry?. I got your 16 oz kit and I cant wait to try it. I can let stuff sit, but the costs will be thin. Still think it's good? I wanted the extra uv protection to prevent yellowing from wear
One more question; tell me about expansion and heat. Can we fill really deep voids all in one pour? How hot does it get? Will it expand out of the container?
Great question! When you're working with deep voids and large epoxy pours, it's essential to consider the heat generated during the curing process. Epoxy resins, especially in large volumes, undergo an exothermic reaction-meaning they release heat as they cure.
If you pour a lot of resin at once (especially with deep pours), the reaction can get quite hot, sometimes reaching temperatures well over 200°F (93°C)! In these situations, the heat can cause several issues:
Overheating and Cracking: The heat can build up too fast, causing the epoxy to crack or even distort your project.
Foaming or Expansion: Excess heat can lead to expansion or foaming, causing the resin to rise out of the mold or container. This can leave behind unwanted bubbles or surface irregularities. ⚠
Fumes: At high temperatures, epoxy can release fumes, so it's always a good idea to work in a well-ventilated area or wear a respirator for safety.
To avoid these problems, we recommend breaking large pours into multiple thinner layers, especially for deep voids or large surface areas. It allows each layer to cool properly, minimizing heat buildup and ensuring a controlled, solid cure.
If you want to do deeper pours, there are deep pour resins specifically designed to handle thicker layers, with slower curing times to manage the heat. Just be sure to follow the product's thickness guidelines carefully
I mixed one to one forgot to read the mixing amounts, did not cure I had poured other epoxy that was already
Pre measures bottles had no problems
Can I pour new epoxy over the wrong
Batch of shed floor and will it harden
Right . The bad batch was one gallon
Resin and one gallon hardener my fought ok I’m an edit. Or do I have to
Remove the bad pour and I what chemicals to use. What type of Respirator do you recommend ?
This video was absolutely 100%free of any and all forms of bullshit. As well as encouragement to like the video; only if the viewer genuinely likes it.
Absolutely loving your videos!
I am working on a project where I need to make Epoxy art in the shape of long cylinders that are around 0.5 to 2 inch in diameter and 2-3 feet in length. Can you suggest me what kind of epoxy should be considered for such small diameter and lengths?
I have the creative freedom and might use bonding with small wooden chunks as well
How long after pouring 1/8 inch of the the AQC epoxy can I add another layer?
And you mentioned ADP avoids exotherming turning the epoxy yellow and gross. Does exotherming do anything other than discolor the material? Will the material be significantly weaker?
Loved this! Great breakdown!
- Seth
Hey Seth - glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
You are the epoxy guru on YT and if you are still active, I am wondering if you can suggest a readily available epoxy that will have very low shrinkage. I am working with tight tolerances so it should also be abrasion resistant. Thank you.
I want to make epoxy figures, paint them and sell them. Is there a suitable mold material that I can pour them into?
Just like making a clay sculpture, taking its mold and then pouring plaster into that mold. But it will be epoxy instead of plaster.
Which one would you recommend for pendant small molds projects? Half inch deep estimation but needs to be durable? Thank you so much
For small projects like pendants and jewelry you can typically get away with using Amazing Quick Coat but if you want to play it safe then Amazing Clear Cast will be the way to go!
When pouring resin on rough wood for a table, does the wood need to be processed any specific way to ensure that it does not pull away from the resin when it is finished?
I have the same question as Charles and would also like to know if there are any wood stain products (Minwax?) that are compatible as a base? I'm working on a bar top bar top with collectible fibre board coasters embedded. GREAT VIDEOS!!
Whenever working with wood and resin you want to make sure your wood is completely dry first - getting out a moisture reader is your best bet!
Where does one find this chart to download?
Hi Victor - we're currently working on one. We'll be sure to throw it in the description when we have one available!