Trying to FIX a Faulty PlayStation Vita - Sony PS Vita Slim
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ธ.ค. 2018
- Hi, this video shows me attempting to fix a PS Vita Slim that was sent to me by a viewer called David. He told me that it suddenly stopped charging and it is now completely dead. He fully understands that there is a very high chance that I may not be able to fix it, but would like to see it attempted on a video.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
My mum recently passed away, I've been watching your videos to help keep my mind occupied so thank you
I'm sorry for your loss. Stay strong brother.
I'm so sorry to hear that. I unfortunately had to go through that as well . Over time the pain will start to ease. Take care, Vince.
Lost my dad about 5 yrs ago its tuff even to this day. Hope the best for u
I felt the same last year when mom passed away also,,
Take care and pray to Allah for your mom will enter paradise
Great video vince! thanks for fixing my vita :D. You were right as soon as you mentioned about corrosion i thought its screwed for sure :'). Always great content keep it up!
Cheers David :-) Email me over your address (not here) and I will get it posted back to you :-)
OK now come clean... How did it get water damaged?
How did you get it wet?
@@solidamber Probably took it in the bath with him.
@@GGigabiteM lol
The thing I love the most about these videos is not the fact that we get to learn (and that they are so relaxing), rather that you don't split them into 3 to 4 parts and time them over a weekly release period. We get to watch a whole repair process from start to finish in a single video.
You're one of the best repair channels out there, IMHO! Keep it up!
Thanks for the nice feedback :-)
Great job there!!!! The reason those 2 holes were not unblocking is the fact it has a super large ground plane and the number of layers probably. Your iron doesn't have the thermal power - it's not just a question of temperature, it's a question of how much heat the layers suck away. Pre-heating with hot air at around 400 to 450 for 3 or 4 minutes before using the iron can often help! You can also carefully drill solder like that, but you need to use exactly the right sized bit and when the hole is not circular like that it can be a pain.
But that's a last ditched thing really - I wouldn't recommend drilling holes out as you can damage the through hole plating. Another tip - when trying to get solder onto the pads like that, solder in the direction the pads sit according to their largest dimension, you have least risk of them coming off the PCB that way. I know you didn't lose any, but if you tried a similar thing on some PCBs I would guarantee after a number of heating cycles they would start floating and sliding around.
Na you should bot use a Drill exectly the size of the Hole, if you have a Hole of about 0,8mm I'd use a 0,5mm Drill. This way there is a pretty little chance of damaging the "Troughlayer". You should also try to suck away as much solder as possible so you get a nice even concave hole
@@jonathanlang9711 What I would do in this case is applying additional solder on the pad, then suck it with the braid, repeat until the hole is cleared. Indeed with a larger tip, not a tiny one. No need for excessive heat though, just the iron tip must be large enough to conduct correctly.
@@NiamorH Thats excactly what he did in the first place for about 5-10 Times with the bigger tip. and tgen switched to a smaller. Also he actually mentioned that probably the smaller Tip can't conduct enough heat as well. But as seen the larger Tip didn't bring a good result to.
@@jonathanlang9711 true I missed it, the timelapse is so fast I didn't see it. maybe I would have added even MORE solder than he did, on both sides as well :) I don't know, usually it does work pretty well.
What you can do is add some new solder to the top side of the hole, put the solder sucker at the bottom side of the hole, then you take your biggest tip and apply heat to the top side. That way the sucker and the iron aren't fighting for space, and you can keep the heat on right up until you activate the sucker. Getting everything in position takes some holding your tongue at the right angle, but it can be amazingly effective.
For batteries with 3 wires/contacts, the third one (usually the middle one on batteries with flat recessed contacts) is almost always a thermistor (temperature sensor) with its other pin on battery negative. The charging circuit, or sometimes the overall power management circuit, will use this to monitor the temperature of the battery and cut off the power if it gets too hot (maybe even when too cold). Smart monitoring/identification signals do exist but usually only in 4-contact batteries along with the thermistor.
Thanks for the great info :-)
Very nice repair, Vince!
I enjoy watching your repairs and attempted repairs.
I'm still an amateur myself, but what I noticed: You seem to become more and more confident with each video.
That's great! And encouraging to newbies to electronics repair.
Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the feedback and support :-)
Great video, and good job fixing the thing! Love watching you get stuff working again, gives me hope for the old devices in the future, as you can always fix them!
Vince you're quite a nice , intelligent skillful guy.Good work on this people wouldn't even try to fix it.Should cost at least a 100 pound for that repair.
Thank you :-)
I mean, I don't understand why people wouldn't try, just take some time out to open it and have a look, just remember how to put it back together.
You are getting significantly better at fault finding. Keep up the good work! Cheers!
Thank you so much :-)
Every single one of your vids I'm sat there willing you to fix whatever it is!
Brilliant job and keep up the great content and fixes well done 😁😁😁
Thank you mate, I appreciate that :-)
You're very welcome matey 😁
I really enjoy your videos and I also like fixing things but I have never looked into board repairs. I might tinker with some old stuff and learn.
I also really love how excited you get when your fixed goods turn on. Its that moment you realise your hard work and dedicated time has paid off.
Keep learning and keep up the good work.
I used to really enjoy fixing broken electronics off ebay. Your channel has made me want to do it again!
The reason the solder isn't melting properly is the fact you're using a small tip on a large piece of metal shielding it just draw all the heat out of the iron tip. Use large tips when working on grounds since they always have a large surface area
Thanks, I had a larger tip on to begin with but next time I will try an even bigger one :-)
@@Mymatevince while a larger tip can help, it's just a workaround, the reason is that your iron doesn't have enough wattage to keep up with the heat wicked away by the large ground plane, without more wattage the only work arounds are to get a larger mass tip to hold more energy or raise the temp to again increase the amount of energy in the iron
T12 irons work better, as the heater is right near the tip. Get a 75w bakon 950d £35.
You wouldn't regret it.....Ive bought so many cheap irons and they were all hopeless, even other T12's.
But the BK950D really impressed me considering its size.
This video was very satisfying to watch. Especially hearing that accent. It also taught me the basics of soldering.
You just earned another subscriber. Keep up the good work!
Brilliant vid mate. Your attention to detail and fault finding process is exemplary. Very entertaining.
Totally enjoyable video again Vince great repair job!, i was curling my toes when you were scratching away at the pad willing it to stay in one piece haha, to me it looked as though the pads were pitted slightly from the corrosion you probably rescued it in the nick of time, already looking forward to the next fix it video.....
Nice one. Always enjoy your videos. Inspires me to start looking for broken consoles so I can practice soldering...
Well done Vince! You must be buzzing after your fixes especially when it involves soldering! Bravo 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks mate :-)
Just found your channel and loved watching you repair the vita, i found it really relaxing. i used to repair my own things too but now for some reason when i try to solder my hands shake like mad even if i rest my arms on the desk. strange thing is it only happens when i'm soldering never any other times. i've subbed and pressed the bell.
These videos are amazing thank you vince for these entertaining vids ❤ much love & support
Well done Vince. You are inspiring me to look at purchasing a proper soldering kit and doing this as a hobby
I know the problem with the solderholes. I spent nearly an hour to clean it out. You make a great job. I love your channel.
nice job dude, you're explaining is clear to follow for simpletons like myself, even just for entertainment
Great job! I like your style that you showing us the failures and the stragguls...what is not so common amoungst the TH-cam repair videos. Keep up the good work and the excellent content!
Thanks for the nice feedback :-)
Good job man.You made that David guy a happy person and I'm thinking you fulfilled your expectation with this rather hard learning curve.Please give that David guy a break on the price of fixing the vita even know you put quite alot of time in fixing it.Very good job and I'm glad you just didnt throw in the towel.Hell I would of gave up but then again my hands are to shaky for even using a soldering iron.Nice video man. Great job
Great Job! Nice video Vince. Please, never stop!
Hey Vince, cleaning out ground plain pins is always a struggle (they are made to dissipate heat), on a thin tip if you are at 350C (element temp) the thin tip will lose heat very fast and wont be 350 at the tip. thus the board doing its job. too clean those a fat tip with high heat and board on its side, you heat it up one side and suck it out the other while heating it.just be care full not too heat the other pins the same because it may lift the pads.
Great advice. Thank you :-)
@@Mymatevince just an add on to this you might want to invest in one of these desoldering guns that keep the solder hot whilst it's been sucked away from the board rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&ipn=icep&toolid=20004&campid=5338356139&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FPro-Desoldering-Station-Vacuum-Removal-Iron-Gun-ZD-915-230V-140W-Soldering-SMD%2F352448817980%3Fepid%3D9005522184%26hash%3Ditem520f962b3c%3Ag%3AJnQAAOSwuMRbgc~e%3Ark%3A22%3Apf%3A0
Vince, you should tin your soldering iron tip too. It needs to hold solder to transfer heat effectively.
Nice one Vince, great fix that really kept us guessing until the end.
Excellent repair there vince!!! And well executed 👌👍
Another great video vince!. And as someone else has said it’s just the pcb and copper plane complexity/width/size rather than a question of temperature. It soaks the heat of the iron away before it has chance to melt the solder. Best bet is a future upgrade to a higher wattage soldering iron. One of the reasons I use a decent quality high wattage iron up to 120w (antex).
On really hard areas like this, you can also preheat the board to help with the heat soak.
We got there at the end, the soldering was frustrating but patience was of the essence. The bonus was your tea was ready and if that was the Mrs she's better then mine as I'd have had that PlayStation put where the sun doesn't shine!
Super job as always Vince! Well done! 👍
Brilliant work! That was a tough one! Sure owner was very pleased! 👍🏾 Thanks so much for Sharing!
Wow Vince just found your channel, sorry never heard of your channel until now. You have some fantastic repairs I love fixing stuff. I mainly make videos on test gear but really impressed with your work. I have more gear than I know what to do with but you do amazing work with basic gear,. Thanks for sharing regards Chris.
great video Vince... really cool to follow... i mean i've started fixing stuff myself... soldered in a new charging port on my Xbox 1 controller... might buy some more to fix and mod. cheers Vince... keep up the good work.
Thank you and well done for fixing your own stuff :-)
12:55 put the lid back on the 'IPA' Isopropyl Alcohol That breaks my heart LOL great video !!
clean clean clean clean, i have the perfect flux for this type of repair it puts a solid coating
between all the contacts..And protects them we use it on bga chips that have had
bad water/pop damage..it sets like glass !!If the pad is missing find out where it goes
to and from and you can just run a jumper wire.
Few things keep the soldering tip clean and check out some soldering tutorials.
Hey My Mate Vince always poppin off new video in the american AM hours!
Made my morning, mate! Thanks for the new video!
Thanks mate :-)
Solder balling up on itself when you try to tin the tip indicates your iron tip is dirty. When it's dirty, thermal transfer is significantly reduced. As GadgetUK164 told you, preheat the area first. Also, a more agressive flux would be useful here, but clean up well after you've used it.
Soldering any components or ports in is tough let alone very small ones. Great job!
This is a good channel for anyone interested in electronic wanting to know how to fix stuff.
I usually use a combination of heat gun on a lower temp to keep the board at a reasonable temp as well as a soldering iron; heat is a form of energy, and energy is cumulative. The board dissipates at a faster rate than the iron can handle, but even with the same iron and another source of heat, the combined energy input is enough to make the solder melt much easier
Thanks for the advice :-)
Great video. I do repair a lots of items mostly a mobile phone but never do the micro usb before because for phone, I just need to swap with a new charging board. For Vita, I only replaced the faulty analog button once and I don't dare to replace the faulty power LED (red faulty, green in OK). I also still learning this kind of stuff since 30 years ago. New products, new items to learn. Subs to you now.
Another great fix and video vince nice one mate and merry Christmas
Thank you and I hope you have a Merry Christmas too :-)
Another WINNER! Keep up the great work!
Whooooooooooooooo over the moon for ya Vince !!!! great fix ..... keep em coming , could sit for hours watchin your fix it videos !!!! ....Shaun.
Love the vid. You are getting serious skills !!!!. The station should kick in the heater when it senses the temperature drop (because the heat disiaption to the board). Probable on your the temp sensor is too far away from the tip that takes time to realize that more power is needed. I have seen stations (generic, but decent) that when you got the issue you had in the pad, the measured temperature falls like a rock on the LCD and the heater is turned to compensate as much as the max power can (60W in the case Im telling). Even on a fine tip, it really manages to do bigger jobs
Yay a new vid 😊. Just got a Switch (fully working when I bought it) and love it.
I love your excitement when it actually starts up the first time :-D
Hi Vince your great videos encourage me to fix things from eBay. You are a great youtuber and great at fixing things.
This is great, glad it appeared on my recommendations! Have a sub!
You have so much patience. Great channel.
So satisfying. This can bring lots of business for you! Keep it up!
I’m hooked by these videos, best one yet!
Thanks :-)
Another job well done! Thanks for another great video.!
Excellent job Vince.
Another great fix video and new stuff learned on the way. Big fan of these video's. thank you.
Excellent, thanks for the comments :-)
Great job, Vince!
I havent quite finished the video yet so im not sure if you fixed the vita or not?.That fix is kicking your ass but nice job none the less. I give you alot of credit.nice job.I wish my hands were steady enough to do that type work.Nice job.I hope when I get to the end of the video you actually got it fixed but if not then know one can say you didnt try.Nice job man
Hey Vince, a little tip for getting solder out of holes.... use thinner solder braid, I use 1.2mm. Push the braid in the hole with a small tipped iron. I do this daily when removing large relays from boards... hope this helps. Great vids by the way
Bro, I thought you were going to go threw the whole video without noticing that the ps button on the psv 2000 don't have an LED in it. Excellent work none the less
great job!! always interesting to watch!
mymatevince- breaks a small green thing from the motherboard
alsomymatevince- i hope it wasn't a component
i seriously love you man
YESSSS thank you so much Vince!!
Amazing vídeo :) congrats from Dublin. I am your fan
Love your video keep up with the great content :)
Enjoy the videos Vince! I notice that a less "pretty" way of clearing the holes on a PCB never gets any play. I OFTEN heat the solder in the holes and then tap the PCB on the table to knock the molten solder out. Can splash, so use with caution ;-)
You're getting better and better with fixing things, Vince. Not sure if you know of his channel, but if not you should check out Lukemorse, the man is just a wizard with bringing things back from the dead like this.
I got my fat Vita for 20 bucks due to having the same problem, it wouldn't charge, turns out one of the pins of the charger port was slightly bent to the side, just grabbed a needle and bend it back to place and there! It worked perfectly!
Vince does it again! great vid :D
Thanks :-)
Sometimes i find that tinning the tip of the iron before soldering helps. Also your soldering iron dosent have the power to melt the solder (in the two holes), so using your reflow station at 400-500°C can help to get that initial heat. The solder is basically absorbing all your heat and not melting it. I only have 2 years experience myself but it does help.
I learned much from your videos. verry great I love them :) pls more of it ^^
Hey Vince love your videos the are really good and I look forward to the next video
Thank you :-)
Great video Vince.
That board might consist of many layers and relay on metal for solidity; also, it should provide even better heating because they at Sony confirmed that they had to downclock the original PS Vita to avoid overheating.
So that's why it *should* drain heat so well.
Congratulations on your successful repairing! You have done a really great job. I love that feeling when you can make something to work. I have a similar problem when my battery drains for a certain low percentage my vita refuses to charge it up. I bought 2 another batteries that worked well until they reached that same critical battery percentage level,too. Do you think I have the same problem?
Great video. It is not unheard of to use hot air to pre heat the board or to even remove components. The board will consume most of the heat giving one a hard time to get either remove or replace the components due to the thermal transfer. I have even used both hot air, soldering iron, flux and wick to remove solder from those difficult holes. Keep up the good work.
Thank you :-)
hi Vince sometimes when the solder won't melt we use a small hand tool with a drill bit in (Eclipse no.121) it's for ground planes so you don't delaminate the board when heating it.
Awesome job! Hopefully you can find some more Vita's to repair in the future off ebay.
The slims are different from the phat vitas. I was saying that to the tv when you where like this button should light up lol.
on *phat* Vitas, the *P* button lights up, on *slim* it doesn't. :|
Great job My Mate VINCE
If you can't Get the solder out of some Holes, you can drill/mill out the Solder with a very little Drill, like 0,4-1 mm depending on how big the hole is
Love you Vince!!
20:00 them's some sturdy pads and traces, they're still there after that assault !
Great job Vince, saved a Vita.
Not bad for a semi amateur solderer giving it a go. You fixed it which is the best result and a Vita lives on to fight another day :). Hope you learnt from the experience. It looked really neat in the end too and your friend will be well chuffed I bet!!
That little square thing with the 4 connectors that goes to the middle pins on the micro USB port is probably a electro magnetic filter it keeps electromagnetic fields from messing up data transfers (the ps vita memory card might be accessable from a pc while still in the vita to fix courupted files like the vitas big bro the psp)
Never reuse a corroded connector, because corrosion will only continue spreading. The only way to protect corroded area is to clean affected area with petrol, reflux, retin, use a new connector and on the end put some colophonium rosin flux on it, because it will prevent the rust from reappearing by cutting oxygen from it.
The Tired Techie Rosin flux is brilliant stuff and also easy to clean off if you want
I recommend getting some solder paste (paste not flux) for thos things, you can just heat it with the air or iron after applying a small amount to the pads and it will effortlessly create perfect joints
Top job Vince!
Thank you mate :-)
Vince, when you are soldering, the steps are - tin the tip if it needs it (there shouldn't be a glob on it when you tin it, wipe to glob off on your sponge), apply the tip to the surface you want solder on and heat it up, then push your solder into the point where your tip meets the target area. It seems like you try to get a glob to stick to a surface from your tip too often. Solder won't stick to a surface that is colder than its melting point.
edit: Another reason why a glob won't stick from the tip is that by the time you have heated the target to right temp with the glob still on your tip - the solder is burnt up and won't want to stick anyway.
Thanks for the helpful tips :-)
The anchors on the micro USB connector need a lot of heat. It helps to preheat the entire PCB and use a low temp solder to get the existing solder stuck in those anchors to flow.
With Christmas coming up, I'm looking to buy a few tools, it would be great to hear your views on which tool has been invaluable to you since you started fixing things, and which tools have left you with buyers remorse.
Nice job Vince!!!!
Nice work. Pleasure to watch. USB / HDMI are sods because of the ground plane. Had the same on a PS4 HDMI with my Aouye 968A+. Very frustrating. Gonna invest in a Quick hot air station next year. Higher temp but for less time is probably better for the board on balance. The way Andrew does it is to mix in leaded and leave the solder in the holes and somehow align it whilst still molten but you need a Quick for that lol. The reason the outher 2 pads won't take is the same reason. Need more heat. Keep it up.
Vince, great job. Only use a charger with the same rated output voltage that the console needs. If you use a higher voltage output charger you can damage the board.
not necessarily but better be safe than sorry
Patients of a saint... bravo fix pal
Thank you :-)
If you have a steady hands you can use 1mm drill bit and try an remove solder that way, some of em are tricky because of inner layers of the board.
Edit : If you are worried about damage, you can do a lot more damage to the board using excessive heat, than with any of the mechanical ways to remove it, components rarely can hold above 100 degrees, unless they are power components.
i know this video is now 4 years old but just wanted to say that i had so many vitas for repair and it amazes me that the batteries on them are very very good, i didnt have one with a bad battery yet to be honest.
yeah of course they do get less life out of them but i didnt see any swell up or not turn on because of a broken battery.
Gotta get away from game companies doing dumb crap...Hey Vince is fixing a PS Vita, something cool to watch!
Hey Vince nice video as always, but you really need to invest in a new Camera and a new lighting system cause the video looks lil dark :)
Livres Audio it’s probably just your brightness.