This is actually a remarkable result. I’ve had crack repairs done by the manufacturers at the same plant the guitar was made at before, and the result was no where near this good. Very impressive.
Great video. I've been able to fix numerous guitar cracks and finish cracks after seeing this. I do have one question, though. When using this method on a guitar with a matte/satin finish, how do you blend that in with the rest of the guitar? It's easy to do on a gloss finish, but I'm having an issue with the matte/satin finish repair. Thanks for everything you do on these videos!!!
Outstanding, thank you Robert, Don here from Hamilton NZ on my Wife's tablet, thanks again, I might have a guitar of mine ( a Martin D3) with just that type of split in its finish, I'll see how I go,take care
Hi Ian, always good to hear from an O'Brien. Your guitar can be repaired. Humidify it and install cleats along the centerline to help hold everything together. That should do it.
Good question. Sometimes solvents are the best way. On this guitar I knew what finish the maker used. That made my decision easier as to how to repair the finish.
The checking of the finish is a natural breakdown of the lacquer aging process. Some people even pay good money for guitars with cracked finishes. You can actually devalue the instrument by trying to fix it. If you can't resist then use an amalgamator.
Hey Robbie! Nice work! Even though I've been keeping my guitars in humidified cases all winter, one guitar in particular (a new one) has developed a crack on a Honduran rosewood back due to not having quite enough humidity. It runs about two inches off of the center seam and nearly parallel with the seam itself. Even though it's barely visible to the eye (just reveals an elongated dimple in the finish about four or five inches long), I know it's there since I actually heard the crack when it occurred. It didn't break through the finish itself, but I did have a local luthier look at the crack to confirm my findings, and he thought I should simply take aggressive action to re-humidify the guitar so that it'll seal itself back up and be done with it. The crack is also faintly visible from the inside of the guitar, but everything looks tight and perfectly aligned with no separation whatsoever. With that being said, I'm currently re-humidifying the guitar by placing a soaked sponge (not overly saturated) on a plastic coffee can lid inside the guitar while closing the soundhole for two or three days.....perhaps longer if necessary. My question is this: once the guitar has returned to its normal state - which wasn't terribly bad in the first place - should I proceed to have the crack repaired? Since it would be impossible for any glue to penetrate the crack from the back, I'm not sure if it could be repaired from the inside, either. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Robbie!
+jpridx I would probably put a cleat on the inside after it has been humidified. Hopefully the crack will never work its way through the wood and into the finish.
Wow! That was a quick reply! Placing a cleat on the inside sounds like a good idea, for I'm not feeling very comfortable with leaving it alone. I'll likely have another luthier look at it in a few days. Thanks for your help!
Great video. I just bought a Martin Road Series. It was mint when I bought it but recently I was surprised to discover a couple small cracks on the bottom side. One is more pronounced and the wood raises a bit. One is a tiny hairline. I've been careful with the guitar, perhaps it was the change in humidity, as the guitar was sent to me. I play it a lot and it's a 6 week wait to take to the repairmen, so thinking of fixing it myself. The finish is a satin that seems very thin and brittle. I'm worried about destroying the finish by glueing the cracks and using a razor blade on it. Thanks.
Lacquer is high solvent and relatively low solids. Spoon a small amount into a jar and let some of the solvent flash off. This way you are applying more of the solid to the fill area.
Great job. How do you determine the specific type of finish before proceeding? Did you really need to re-apply a finish to the entire back's surface? Wouldn't a CA-leveling, fine sanding, polishing and buffing have been sufficient? Thanks.
The CA would probably be visible if you didn't re-finish the entire surface. Sometimes you can get away with a small repair using just CA glue on finishes like polyester, urethane etc. For lacquer I like to use lacquer since it will melt in to the area and you can do spot finish repairs. To determine the type of finish you have wipe a small amount of lacquer thinner on the surface. If the finish softens it is lacquer, if not it is probably a poly of some type.
Já tive este problema com o jacarandá brasileiro, mas em geral acontece por causa da umidade muito baixa. Até, uma dica pra deixar aqui é que caso a trica esteja muito aberta, é bom deixar a umidade do ambiente aumentar um pouco e deixar o violão em um ambiente com temperatura um pouco mais baixa, a trinca geralmente fecha um pouco, então aplicar a cola. Meu Inglês não é dos melhores, por isso a postagem em português. Abraço
Beautiful work. Sir, I have a few cracks on the back and sides of my laminate Brazilian Rosewood classical guitar. The cracks are only on the outer layer; is it stable or does it need repair? Many Thanks. Ed
Any way of telling if more cracks could be surfacing in the future? s it a matter of proper humidity, or does BR tend to become more stable after the initial cracking has occurred?
Flat sawn; not quarter sawn? I have a piece of flat sawn Honduran or Brazilian Rosewood and have been wondering about using it for a guitar back. I have had it for 40 years and have never had a project that was good enough for this precious timber. So should I use it? The piece is about 14mm thick and plenty wide and long enough to get several guitars from it.
@@OBrienGuitars thank you very much for your advice Robert. I will use it for my next guitar. Four years ago when I realised I could have a go at making a guitar I was so excited that I could use this timber and then really disappointed when I learnt about the quarter sawn issue. THANKS for your endorsement!
Olá mestre! Muito obrigado pela legenda perfeita em "português". Eu tenho um curso seu (em vídeo), mas tenho muita dificuldade, pois não entendo nada em "inglês". Espero que um dia você possa presentear os brasileiros com um curso em português. Um abraço
Hi there- I have a 1959 Gibson L-1 that has old finish with cracks running everywhere, how can I make this look better without stripping and starting over? Varnish and sand?
Good stuff OB, may i pick your brains about something? I recently started a distance learning course, it's a Luthiers course, i'm already a time served joiner but wood finishes were never an issue when i was building houses.Anyway as part of the course we have been asked to repair a Nitro Cellulose coated Guitar. My example is a JHS Vintage V400 Resonator.A chip the size of a match head has befallen the instrument and it is in a place were your gaze is just drawn staight to it. I noticed your use of CA glue, with the Nitro finish is it possible to use an Acetone to destablise the finish add a drop of the specific colour, this being black and then build it up with super glue Using the blade technique? If it is possible what type of colourant would work? Thanks OB.
I am interested in learning who is doing the distance learning course you are taking, I wasn't aware of anyone doing one. For lacquer finishes I prefer using lacquer for repairs. I would get a small amount of lacquer and dye it black using Transtint black dye. Use this for the repair. You could also try the black version of Glu Boost.
OBrienGuitars, thank you for the reply! Awesome, I’ll be sealing it then. Should cleats be used or is it unnecessary since it is so thin? (It’s about 7 inches long though.)
Hello Mr. O'Brien. Love the videos. I just completed an OM model of my own, and within about 2 months it has developed a small hairline crack in the finish on the top. Do you have any insights about how to approach a cosmetic, hairline crack, in spruce. It was finished with nitro lacquer. Thanks in advance.
Top cracks are a bit more difficult to do because of the lighter colored soundboard material. Ideally if you could refinish the top after fixing the crack it would be best but not always the most convenient solution. Probably what you have is a small crack in the wood that is showing up in the finish. First stabilizer the crack by cleating it from inside. Humidify first to get it too close and then address the finish. If you can get away with drop filling and then leveling and buffing it is best.
Is the process of leveling and buffing the finish on catalyzed urethane the same as lacquer finishes. I have searched high and low for leveling and buffing on urethane finishes and almost all seem to stop filming during this process. This maybe is a good idea for a future video on urethane finishes; the different methods of leveling and buffing of all the types of urethane finishes on the market today. The skipping of this process has mislead me to believe that when applying urethane finishes the final coat that has been sprayed is the final finish and only buffing to high gloss is left, with no more wet sanding with micro mesh. Please elaborate. Thanks again, i watch your videos daily, over and over again.
For urethane finishes I level and buff like I would a normal finish. Wet sand and then buffing machine. On lacquer I use lacquer instead of CA glue to repair the finish.
After watching your video on - Buffing High Gloss Finishes, i realized i am applying the urethane too thin and I'm level sanding thru the previous layer. How were you able to build a finish spraying thinned urethane to be able to wet sand without going thru.
Do you spray the finish over the sanding shellac? Don't you have to remove completely shellac first, to make the surface shine, or it's not necessary? I ask you that because after sanding shellac and wetting with water, after the water dry, the surface return to be matt. Thanx
Er Singa I am not quite sure I understand your question. Shellac can go under or over just about any product out there. You can spray over it. Shellac can be wet sanded and buffed but you must be very careful to not go through it or damage it during the process.
i got hairline crack on the to of my solid spruce, to be exact below the bridge. can you help me sir? can i do the same way like this video to gluing it? or do you have a video about it? thanks before
Hi, thanks for the video! I also have a guitar with some cracks on the back that are the same kind as you repaired here. But I was wondering is the CA Hotstuff glue enought ? In which case should we use a cleat or not ? Because the amount of work is not really the same (specilly if the sound hole cannot let the hand slip throught the instrument).
You can try CA glue. Mostly I use that method when I want to also repair a synthetic finish. If not I use hide glue. Cleats are not necessary if you get the glue into the crack and close it well.
Hello sir. I am also an O'Brien, over here in Northwest England. I stumbled across this video and saw our family crest. Hopefully it is a good sign. My Turner CE64 - which is the one and only guitar I have ever truly thought I could not be without, seems to have developed a hairline crack down the centre - running from the soundhole, beneath the bridge. There is no play in it and it seems solid. Can it be easily repaired do you think? Here's hoping the gentlest hand may prove uppermost :)
If the cracks are on the front it is a different kind of repair as the wood is lighter in color. To refinish a guitar after repairing cracks can run in the hundreds of dollars. Depending on where you got the instrument it could cost more than it is worth. On a high end guitar like this one it is worth the repair cost.
The idea is that the wood will expand and contract at the same rate. Using a different species is probably fine as well. For example, you could use Indian rosewood instead of Brazilian.
I have a Taylor GS7 that has a hairline crack in the top that I might attempt to repair with CA glue. Do you know if the entire top would need refinished given the UV cure lacquer that Taylor uses, or could I simply sand and buff the top? Or some other method? This link references the finish used on the guitar. www.guitarcenter.com/Taylor/GS7-Rosewood-Cedar-Grand-Symphony-Acoustic-Guitar.gc#productDetail
I have a Ukulele that was cracked years ago... I'm thinking this might be the fix I need. The crack is large enough that it totally buzzes the sound of the instrument tho. Think this might work? If so where might I get the glue you used?
i know your a busy man i have a question since you are the professional here. im buying a Taylor 814ce 2013 who ha the top fixed there was a crack in it that was fixed. cant notice it to much, for the price he wants was wondering if you think it was a fair deal ?? he wants like $2000.00 any info would be great thank you sir.
Is there any way to just wipe excess glue before it dries hence avoiding a refinish ? I have a crack on an Indian rosewood back French polish finish, right along the seam in the middle.
i got a same problem my acoustic guitar with backside Solid Ebony got cracked :( even i brought my guitar to a luthier it always cracked after a few weeks after repaired. a luthier said the ebony is not dried well so the melamic is always got cracked. is it true a ebony wood is need a long time to got good condition wood?pls i need advice :) glad if you answe my question. thanks you!!
I teach construction classes in my personal shop in Colorado and have courses available via my website. www.obrienguitars.com/courses However, I do not teach repair classes.
Depending on how large it is you may need to splice a new piece in. Most times you can hydrate it and then cleat it from the inside and use the method I show in the video.
This guitar was several years old and the finish had shrunk back into the pores a bit. Fairly common on these type finishes. The back was refinished. Sometimes as a repair person you have to do what the owner wants and can afford rather than what we prefer.
This is actually a remarkable result. I’ve had crack repairs done by the manufacturers at the same plant the guitar was made at before, and the result was no where near this good. Very impressive.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Excellent, just what I needed to see to correct some fine cracks in a friend's guitar, thank you very much and success always!
Thanks for watching. Glad you found the information useful.
Great video. I've been able to fix numerous guitar cracks and finish cracks after seeing this. I do have one question, though. When using this method on a guitar with a matte/satin finish, how do you blend that in with the rest of the guitar? It's easy to do on a gloss finish, but I'm having an issue with the matte/satin finish repair. Thanks for everything you do on these videos!!!
Thanks fot this demo.
I understand that the majority of the repairing cost is for the refinishing.
Outstanding, thank you Robert, Don here from Hamilton NZ on my Wife's tablet, thanks again, I might have a guitar of mine ( a Martin D3) with just that type of split in its finish, I'll see how I go,take care
That Guitarback is just Gorgeous!
Hi Ian, always good to hear from an O'Brien. Your guitar can be repaired. Humidify it and install cleats along the centerline to help hold everything together. That should do it.
That was an amazing repair. True artistry.
Good question. Sometimes solvents are the best way. On this guitar I knew what finish the maker used. That made my decision easier as to how to repair the finish.
Only a MUSICIAN would think to use markers for wood repair and grain matching. Bravo - encore.
The checking of the finish is a natural breakdown of the lacquer aging process. Some people even pay good money for guitars with cracked finishes. You can actually devalue the instrument by trying to fix it. If you can't resist then use an amalgamator.
Keeping the guitar at the proper humidity level certainly helps. Brazilian usually moves much more than Indian rosewood or other woods though.
Fantastic, haven't been any of these vids in too long
Thank you. Glad you are enjoying the videos.
There are two links. The first one is my website the second one is an email address. Perhaps you are trying to access the second one?
Hey Robbie! Nice work! Even though I've been keeping my guitars in humidified cases all winter, one guitar in particular (a new one) has developed a crack on a Honduran rosewood back due to not having quite enough humidity. It runs about two inches off of the center seam and nearly parallel with the seam itself. Even though it's barely visible to the eye (just reveals an elongated dimple in the finish about four or five inches long), I know it's there since I actually heard the crack when it occurred. It didn't break through the finish itself, but I did have a local luthier look at the crack to confirm my findings, and he thought I should simply take aggressive action to re-humidify the guitar so that it'll seal itself back up and be done with it. The crack is also faintly visible from the inside of the guitar, but everything looks tight and perfectly aligned with no separation whatsoever.
With that being said, I'm currently re-humidifying the guitar by placing a soaked sponge (not overly saturated) on a plastic coffee can lid inside the guitar while closing the soundhole for two or three days.....perhaps longer if necessary. My question is this: once the guitar has returned to its normal state - which wasn't terribly bad in the first place - should I proceed to have the crack repaired? Since it would be impossible for any glue to penetrate the crack from the back, I'm not sure if it could be repaired from the inside, either. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Robbie!
+jpridx I would probably put a cleat on the inside after it has been humidified. Hopefully the crack will never work its way through the wood and into the finish.
Wow! That was a quick reply! Placing a cleat on the inside sounds like a good idea, for I'm not feeling very comfortable with leaving it alone. I'll likely have another luthier look at it in a few days. Thanks for your help!
Great video. I just bought a Martin Road Series. It was mint when I bought it but recently I was surprised to discover a couple small cracks on the bottom side. One is more pronounced and the wood raises a bit. One is a tiny hairline. I've been careful with the guitar, perhaps it was the change in humidity, as the guitar was sent to me. I play it a lot and it's a 6 week wait to take to the repairmen, so thinking of fixing it myself. The finish is a satin that seems very thin and brittle. I'm worried about destroying the finish by glueing the cracks and using a razor blade on it. Thanks.
satin finishes are easier to repair than gloss finishes but you always run the risk of damaging things if you are not careful.
@@OBrienGuitars thanks for the reply :)
Thanks so much for all your very helpful and easy to follow tip!!!
This exact phenomenon happened with my guitar. I breathed a sight of relief because it fixable.
Lacquer is high solvent and relatively low solids. Spoon a small amount into a jar and let some of the solvent flash off. This way you are applying more of the solid to the fill area.
Great video but.... the link given at the end doesn't work?
Great job. How do you determine the specific type of finish before proceeding? Did you really need to re-apply a finish to the entire back's surface? Wouldn't a CA-leveling, fine sanding, polishing and buffing have been sufficient? Thanks.
The CA would probably be visible if you didn't re-finish the entire surface. Sometimes you can get away with a small repair using just CA glue on finishes like polyester, urethane etc. For lacquer I like to use lacquer since it will melt in to the area and you can do spot finish repairs. To determine the type of finish you have wipe a small amount of lacquer thinner on the surface. If the finish softens it is lacquer, if not it is probably a poly of some type.
Já tive este problema com o jacarandá brasileiro, mas em geral acontece por causa da umidade muito baixa. Até, uma dica pra deixar aqui é que caso a trica esteja muito aberta, é bom deixar a umidade do ambiente aumentar um pouco e deixar o violão em um ambiente com temperatura um pouco mais baixa, a trinca geralmente fecha um pouco, então aplicar a cola. Meu Inglês não é dos melhores, por isso a postagem em português. Abraço
Cracks in the wood, finish or both? A picture would be helpful.
Beautiful work. Sir, I have a few cracks on the back and sides of my laminate Brazilian Rosewood classical guitar. The cracks are only on the outer layer; is it stable or does it need repair?
Many Thanks. Ed
+edward siu It probably needs repair. The lamination can actually come apart in severe cases.
+OBrienGuitars Thank you for your time to reply.
Any way of telling if more cracks could be surfacing in the future? s it a matter of proper humidity, or does BR tend to become more stable after the initial cracking has occurred?
How much does a repair like that run?
Flat sawn; not quarter sawn? I have a piece of flat sawn Honduran or Brazilian Rosewood and have been wondering about using it for a guitar back. I have had it for 40 years and have never had a project that was good enough for this precious timber. So should I use it? The piece is about 14mm thick and plenty wide and long enough to get several guitars from it.
Flat sawn lumber can be used for back and side wood so I say go ahead and use it.
@@OBrienGuitars thank you very much for your advice Robert. I will use it for my next guitar. Four years ago when I realised I could have a go at making a guitar I was so excited that I could use this timber and then really disappointed when I learnt about the quarter sawn issue. THANKS for your endorsement!
Olá mestre! Muito obrigado pela legenda perfeita em "português". Eu tenho um curso seu (em vídeo), mas tenho muita dificuldade, pois não entendo nada em "inglês". Espero que um dia você possa presentear os brasileiros com um curso em português. Um abraço
Quem sabe se um dia isto seria possível.
How much does it cost to have this done?
Hi there- I have a 1959 Gibson L-1 that has old finish with cracks running everywhere, how can I make this look better without stripping and starting over? Varnish and sand?
Good stuff OB, may i pick your brains about something? I recently started a distance learning course, it's a Luthiers course, i'm already a time served joiner but wood finishes were never an issue when i was building houses.Anyway as part of the course we have been asked to repair a Nitro Cellulose coated Guitar. My example is a JHS Vintage V400 Resonator.A chip the size of a match head has befallen the instrument and it is in a place were your gaze is just drawn staight to it. I noticed your use of CA glue, with the Nitro finish is it possible to use an Acetone to destablise the finish add a drop of the specific colour, this being black and then build it up with super glue Using the blade technique? If it is possible what type of colourant would work? Thanks OB.
I am interested in learning who is doing the distance learning course you are taking, I wasn't aware of anyone doing one. For lacquer finishes I prefer using lacquer for repairs. I would get a small amount of lacquer and dye it black using Transtint black dye. Use this for the repair. You could also try the black version of Glu Boost.
Thank you for the great video! Could I seal a hairline crack in the back of a 1980 Ramírez 1a using this method minus the refinishing?
yes, you can repair the crack but not the finish.
OBrienGuitars, thank you for the reply! Awesome, I’ll be sealing it then. Should cleats be used or is it unnecessary since it is so thin? (It’s about 7 inches long though.)
Hello Mr. O'Brien. Love the videos. I just completed an OM model of my own, and within about 2 months it has developed a small hairline crack in the finish on the top. Do you have any insights about how to approach a cosmetic, hairline crack, in spruce. It was finished with nitro lacquer. Thanks in advance.
Top cracks are a bit more difficult to do because of the lighter colored soundboard material. Ideally if you could refinish the top after fixing the crack it would be best but not always the most convenient solution. Probably what you have is a small crack in the wood that is showing up in the finish. First stabilizer the crack by cleating it from inside. Humidify first to get it too close and then address the finish. If you can get away with drop filling and then leveling and buffing it is best.
Excellent 'how to' videos!
Is the process of leveling and buffing the finish on catalyzed urethane the same as lacquer finishes. I have searched high and low for leveling and buffing on urethane finishes and almost all seem to stop filming during this process. This maybe is a good idea for a future video on urethane finishes; the different methods of leveling and buffing of all the types of urethane finishes on the market today. The skipping of this process has mislead me to believe that when applying urethane finishes the final coat that has been sprayed is the final finish and only buffing to high gloss is left, with no more wet sanding with micro mesh. Please elaborate. Thanks again, i watch your videos daily, over and over again.
For urethane finishes I level and buff like I would a normal finish. Wet sand and then buffing machine. On lacquer I use lacquer instead of CA glue to repair the finish.
After watching your video on - Buffing High Gloss Finishes, i realized i am applying the urethane too thin and I'm level sanding thru the previous layer. How were you able to build a finish spraying thinned urethane to be able to wet sand without going thru.
It takes practice. The more you do the better you get at it.
Do you spray the finish over the sanding shellac? Don't you have to remove completely shellac first, to make the surface shine, or it's not necessary? I ask you that because after sanding shellac and wetting with water, after the water dry, the surface return to be matt. Thanx
Er Singa I am not quite sure I understand your question. Shellac can go under or over just about any product out there. You can spray over it. Shellac can be wet sanded and buffed but you must be very careful to not go through it or damage it during the process.
i got hairline crack on the to of my solid spruce, to be exact below the bridge. can you help me sir?
can i do the same way like this video to gluing it? or do you have a video about it?
thanks before
How can you tell different finishes from each other without using solvents?
Great video! I have a crack in the finish on my Fender Dao exotic wood. It seems to run under the saddle. How much of a pain would that be to fix?
I would need to see pics but the crack would be relatively easy to fix. The finish perhaps a bit more difficult.
Hi, thanks for the video!
I also have a guitar with some cracks on the back that are the same kind as you repaired here. But I was wondering is the CA Hotstuff glue enought ? In which case should we use a cleat or not ? Because the amount of work is not really the same (specilly if the sound hole cannot let the hand slip throught the instrument).
You can try CA glue. Mostly I use that method when I want to also repair a synthetic finish. If not I use hide glue. Cleats are not necessary if you get the glue into the crack and close it well.
Hello sir. I am also an O'Brien, over here in Northwest England. I stumbled across this video and saw our family crest. Hopefully it is a good sign. My Turner CE64 - which is the one and only guitar I have ever truly thought I could not be without, seems to have developed a hairline crack down the centre - running from the soundhole, beneath the bridge. There is no play in it and it seems solid. Can it be easily repaired do you think? Here's hoping the gentlest hand may prove uppermost :)
If the cracks are on the front it is a different kind of repair as the wood is lighter in color. To refinish a guitar after repairing cracks can run in the hundreds of dollars. Depending on where you got the instrument it could cost more than it is worth. On a high end guitar like this one it is worth the repair cost.
Hi Robert. What is the reason for using cleats of the same wood type as the cracked wood that is being repaired?
The idea is that the wood will expand and contract at the same rate. Using a different species is probably fine as well. For example, you could use Indian rosewood instead of Brazilian.
I would have liked to see the spraying, leveling and buffing too..
I have a Taylor GS7 that has a hairline crack in the top that I might attempt to repair with CA glue. Do you know if the entire top would need refinished given the UV cure lacquer that Taylor uses, or could I simply sand and buff the top? Or some other method? This link references the finish used on the guitar. www.guitarcenter.com/Taylor/GS7-Rosewood-Cedar-Grand-Symphony-Acoustic-Guitar.gc#productDetail
What about "cleating" internally ? Thanks.
If you feel it needs it then go ahead and cleat on the inside. Generally the thin CA glue is enough.
how much do you reckon this would cost to get done at a shop?
Does it sound any difference after repair
your are typing the addres incorrectly for LMI it is lmii not lmmi
Like new! or even better. Excellent tip.
How do you know if the finish is poly or nitro? Thanks.
Nitro will dissolve if you wipe it with lacquer thinner.
I have a Ukulele that was cracked years ago... I'm thinking this might be the fix I need. The crack is large enough that it totally buzzes the sound of the instrument tho. Think this might work? If so where might I get the glue you used?
Difficult to offer advice without seeing the instrument. If it has a crack that large it might have other issues as well that need to be addressed.
my friend's child sat on it.. :( I'd send photos but it's actually at my mom's in GA atm..
i know your a busy man i have a question since you are the professional here. im buying a Taylor 814ce 2013 who ha the top fixed there was a crack in it that was fixed. cant notice it to much, for the price he wants was wondering if you think it was a fair deal ?? he wants like $2000.00 any info would be great thank you sir.
***** That price seems to be about market price. Make sure the repair was done right and it should be fine.
thank you for getting back with me sir.
hey robert! what name brand finnish did you use for the resray..thanks
Is there any way to just wipe excess glue before it dries hence avoiding a refinish ? I have a crack on an Indian rosewood back French polish finish, right along the seam in the middle.
If done with care the CA glue can act as a finish.
OBrienGuitars do you wipe it off before it dries?
you can try. I prefer to use a small amount of thin viscosity and let it self level with the crack.
OBrienGuitars ok, many thanks
i got a same problem my acoustic guitar with backside Solid Ebony got cracked :( even i brought my guitar to a luthier it always cracked after a few weeks after repaired. a luthier said the ebony is not dried well so the melamic is always got cracked. is it true a ebony wood is need a long time to got good condition wood?pls i need advice :) glad if you answe my question. thanks you!!
Dimas Kamil ebony is prone to cracking an must be kept at a constant relative humidity to help prevent this.
OBrienGuitars so it does not mean my ebony is not good?btw thanks you for answering my question!!you help a lot!
Is it possible to repair this huge crack that goes all the way down the center on the back of my gutar?
Yes, it is possible to fix anything but a broken heart!
OBrienGuitars
How about the crack of dawn?
Seth Burgin Well that and plumber's crack are hard to repair.
What is the difference in the glue your using and super glue in the thin set .
same stuff probably. Make sure it is water thin.
that looks totally awesome
what would be the cost for a repair like this?
+Mathias Chaidez Hundreds of dollars.
its says you're and instructor. Do you teach and offer classes on repair?
I teach construction classes in my personal shop in Colorado and have courses available via my website. www.obrienguitars.com/courses However, I do not teach repair classes.
This glue is called CA glue. Cyanoacrylate glue is the official name. It is also sold under several common names like super glue.
For lacquer finishes I usually just drop fill with lacquer, This way you have no layers in the finish.
how about a crack that goes all the way through the wood. Its on a back, which is off, on a 46 pre silvertone f hole arch top
Depending on how large it is you may need to splice a new piece in. Most times you can hydrate it and then cleat it from the inside and use the method I show in the video.
thanks
Does it sound any difference after repair?T_T
why would it? lol
great video as always. Good music too, LOL. Play that funky music white boy.
if you are the domain owner, you should know... it further says: The domain lmmi.com may be for sale by its owner!
How much does a job like that cost?
This can run several hundred dollars
I see. Thanks. Yeah, that's about what I expected.
what if the carcks on the front, and larger...
What grit sandpaper?
180 and 220
How could I send you pics?
My address is on my website. www.obrienguitars.com
I used Cambpell's brand for this guitar
the Braziilian guitar is a GIANNINI? old 70's i think i have the same one...well same exact back guitar haha
actually that guitar was made by Brazilian master Antonio Tessarin and I guarantee that it sounds much netter than a Giannini.
I liked that! thanks
A little internet, and you can find most makers and ask what finish they use.
No cracks in the wood, just old paint, thousands of cracks. I didn't want to strip it down so as to save the value and headstock logo-'Gibson'
Great vid, lovelly guitar, but the close up shows that the finish on this guitar sucks, maybe a refinish would have been in order anyway.
This guitar was several years old and the finish had shrunk back into the pores a bit. Fairly common on these type finishes. The back was refinished. Sometimes as a repair person you have to do what the owner wants and can afford rather than what we prefer.
I address spraying, leveling and buffing in other videos I have already done. Check out my channel to learn more about these topics.
Aaaamazing
Wow!
Muito bom
dejure you mean
cracks*
hahaha... I am not that dumb... seriously... I ried loging to
Immi(dot) and it say website for sale?
thats called checking you cant really fix that...just leave it it's worth more that way
That guitar would be no good to me as I'd spend more time looking at it than playing it.
oh dear - this is really NOT the way to repair lacquer cracks - you do it by applying a very thin amount of lacquer locally and it will reglue itself
antigen4 this finish is not lacquer. I also am repairing the crack in the wood with the CA glue and not just the finish.
ah i see - my mistake - because i got this video FIRST while doing a search for the terms 'laquer repair' - go figure huh?
Does it sound any difference after repair
It sounds exactly the same.