I doubt you are a pushover even standing!😂 Seriously, I'm a CAD drafter and have worked for many residential architects. It amazes me how little they are aware of shear and uplift requirements, and will happily draw glass boxes and be shocked at the added cost to engineer solutions, nevermind construction added costs! A structural engineer once remarked to me that structure is no longer taught to Architecture students. I can believe it! I think what you are doing is great!
The architecture profession has alot to learn!!! They are not anywhere near the projected image.........maybe its time to pull them boots up and actually do some work?
Very inventive use of the insulation space! The 2x4 “struts” rely on the nails top and bottom for their shear value the same as a panel’s value is determined by the nailing. As you said, you only needed a little bit of help. We have used Simpson CS16 coiled strap for the same purpose. It works great on remodels where the siding remains intact. Just let in 1/4” so the drywall lays flat.
Interesting video about a subject you (or others) haven't really talked about before. Great series Steve! Let's say you would build this house today, what would you do different? I think that could be a whole video in itself, so I'm kind of hoping you will do just that :)
Steve with the know! Love it. Quick question: Would the 2x4 diagonal bracing be stronger if it was indeed let in to the studs? My thought is that the force is transferred to the nails in shear but if it was also transferred directly to the studs it was let into, wouldn't it make for a greater load resistance?
Hi Steve! In looking at the layout of the ZIP panels on the elevations I see you have an 8’ high ZIP panel that connects the first floor mudsill, the raised floor system and a portion of the height of the first floor walls. Then you have what is probably a 4’ high ZIP panel continuing up to the top of the second floor framing, and then another 8’ ZIP panel above that. In high wind zones (especially ones that experience hurricanes) I’ve read about the Fortified System of building and they say that it is important to tie together the first floor walls, the second floor framing and 2nd floor walls with one continuous piece of sheathing so why didn’t you switch the locations of the 4’ high panel with the 8’ high panel above it? Wouldn’t that longer middle panel then tie the second floor wall framing to the first floor wall framing and really strengthen the whole house?
What you suggest and what Fortified recommends I am sure may be correct. This particular home was fully engineered and the specs I laid out here are the requirements of the engineer's analysis
At 19:00 you show the struct nailed to the sill plate on the inside surface of the wall. Could a steel strap perhaps 1/8" by 2 inches wide be used and secured to the studs and sill plate instead--to produce a smooth interior wall and carry the tensile loads?
Do you think it's possible to get close to a PH build for $225-250/sq ft in Washington State? I've talked to a couple of builders and they laughed when I asked.
I doubt you are a pushover even standing!😂 Seriously, I'm a CAD drafter and have worked for many residential architects. It amazes me how little they are aware of shear and uplift requirements, and will happily draw glass boxes and be shocked at the added cost to engineer solutions, nevermind construction added costs! A structural engineer once remarked to me that structure is no longer taught to Architecture students. I can believe it! I think what you are doing is great!
The architecture profession has alot to learn!!! They are not anywhere near the projected image.........maybe its time to pull them boots up and actually do some work?
Very inventive use of the insulation space! The 2x4 “struts” rely on the nails top and bottom for their shear value the same as a panel’s value is determined by the nailing. As you said, you only needed a little bit of help. We have used Simpson CS16 coiled strap for the same purpose. It works great on remodels where the siding remains intact. Just let in 1/4” so the drywall lays flat.
Thank you
I don't think I've ever seen anyone cover this topic before, and certainly not in this detail. Great video!
I get around lol.......thank you for joining in
Great EDU Professor Steve!
Im enjoying the potpourri of EDU.
Cheers, Eric
Cheers buddy
Interesting video about a subject you (or others) haven't really talked about before. Great series Steve!
Let's say you would build this house today, what would you do different? I think that could be a whole video in itself, so I'm kind of hoping you will do just that :)
Steve with the know! Love it.
Quick question: Would the 2x4 diagonal bracing be stronger if it was indeed let in to the studs? My thought is that the force is transferred to the nails in shear but if it was also transferred directly to the studs it was let into, wouldn't it make for a greater load resistance?
Hi Steve! In looking at the layout of the ZIP panels on the elevations I see you have an 8’ high ZIP panel that connects the first floor mudsill, the raised floor system and a portion of the height of the first floor walls. Then you have what is probably a 4’ high ZIP panel continuing up to the top of the second floor framing, and then another 8’ ZIP panel above that.
In high wind zones (especially ones that experience hurricanes) I’ve read about the Fortified System of building and they say that it is important to tie together the first floor walls, the second floor framing and 2nd floor walls with one continuous piece of sheathing so why didn’t you switch the locations of the 4’ high panel with the 8’ high panel above it? Wouldn’t that longer middle panel then tie the second floor wall framing to the first floor wall framing and really strengthen the whole house?
What you suggest and what Fortified recommends I am sure may be correct. This particular home was fully engineered and the specs I laid out here are the requirements of the engineer's analysis
At 19:00 you show the struct nailed to the sill plate on the inside surface of the wall.
Could a steel strap perhaps 1/8" by 2 inches wide be used and secured to the studs and sill plate instead--to produce a smooth interior wall and carry the tensile loads?
Do you think it's possible to get close to a PH build for $225-250/sq ft in Washington State? I've talked to a couple of builders and they laughed when I asked.
What are they claiming it costs?
Is that price inclusive of foundation? (still learning all this)