Excellent video! It will be good to see techniques recommended for the different types of stone. As well as different types stones recommended for different types of knives and or cladding ie wrought iron, soft iron, all steel, etc This will help us to more accurately gauge which stones to invest in. Thank you
Thank you I follow Ivan's amazing work for longtime .It's so good to see fresh videos from you guys often now .I'm going to buy and use all the Oboro set . Kind regards Balazs 😊
@@komonjapan And how would you rate these vs Naniwa professional stones? In speed/ feedback and longevity. And if you would gradually switch from naniwas, which ones would you replace first. (have 400 800 1000 2000 3000 and 8000). My main use are some of my japanese kitchen knives, like my fujiwara denka etc
Both Hakuto1 and Oboro Knife are harder, faster cutting speed and have excellent feed back, the Oboro knife being harder of the two. To start I would recommend Oboro Knife #400 or if you are only maintaining the edge Hakuto1 #1500. The Oboro Knife #400 is very egressive and can remove minor chips or reset bevels quickly, the Hakuto1 #1500 is a good all round stone either on its own or as a transitional stone into higher grits.
@@komonjapan thank you very much for the reply, and I assume both outperform naniwas when it comes to more excotic steels due to the diamonds. (High vanadium steels) And do they last as long as a normal whetstone or longer?
Thanks for your question! It is a little difficult to answer because so many variables that play into 'how often you need to flatten'. For example- what type of knife are you sharpening (single bevel vs double bevel)? Are you doing edge sharpening or thinning? What state of polishing are you in? All of these can give drastically different answers. That said, for reference, when Ivan used to use Chosera stones for rough polishing, he often found he needed to re-flatten his stones every 10-15 minutes to maintain performance. With the NSK Diamond stones, there are times when he doesn't need to flatten more than once in a two-hour session. For honbazuke (final edge sharpening) with NSK Diamond stones he feels the need to flatten even less than that. Hope this helps!
@@Stgpx9 it's not even about flatting with abrasives like this. it's just about refreshing the surface. You could call it "unclogging" the stone. You do this as often as you'd like based on how you use it. The stone itself should never go out of flat much if used correctly and the stone itself should have a very long service life. that is my exerinced with such stones but I have never seen a very soft one.
I generally like harder low grit stones and softer higher grit stones. The reasons are obvious. So these are bonded diamond with different levels of hardness and "friabilty" in the bonding, obvious the diamond itself isn't friable. the bonding is. I feel like most users don't even really know how to do things well enough to warrant equipment like that but I'd love to get something like that in a lower grit for sure. I'd like to get a fast cutting hard 200 mostly cuz coated abrasives suck. A nice like finer course stone or courser medium stone, say somewhere like 600 lets say. and finer medium stone or a courser fine stone like 3k lets say. anything beyond that i'd just use diamond on wood.
That make sense what you write. For the preference, we recommend using a the new series Oboro Knife #200-800 is for rough sharpening, and the Hakuto2 3000S and 6000S (softer stone) is for medium polishing, we believe you’ll like the combination.
Idk what hes talking about when he says other products on the market are not accurate. the only times I've seen this issue is when they have binders that are abrasive in themselves. or its a bootleg product. getting very accurately graded industrial diamond abrasive powder isn't difficult. even consumers can buy it in small quantities for not very much money. I've never seen this issue unless I don't understand what he means. One of the only consumer products on the market for instance the naniwa diamond stones, they are exactly what it says on the box. Not many other consumer goods on the market like that so again IDK what he's getting at.
Thank you for your comments. This is from a person who worked in the Japanese sharpening stone manufacturing industry for many years, and he told me that in Japan there are no set rules for determining the grain size of sharpening stones. The grain size is determined by the manufacturer's own sense. For example, even if the same 800 grit is used, the roughness varies slightly from company to company, so depending on the sharpener and the steel to be sharpened, it may be difficult to move from coarse to fine sharpening stones in that order because the grit depth is not consistent with what the manufacturer has stated on the product, This is a big problem for some sharpeners who use the 800 grit but are not able to produce the exact scratch.
Thank you for this video. You should do another in-depth of which stone for the knife or sharpening your trying to do.
Excellent video!
It will be good to see techniques recommended for the different types of stone.
As well as different types stones recommended for different types of knives and or cladding ie wrought iron, soft iron, all steel, etc
This will help us to more accurately gauge which stones to invest in.
Thank you
We just shot Ivan's sharpening clips and are working on making new video now.
Please wait a little while more🙏
Amazing system for accurate progression of sharpening and polishing
Very interesting stones
NSK Kogyo's stones may change your sharpening experience
Thank you so much to show these amazing product .Im looking forward to see how Ivan uses them .Im curious on the polishing side specially.
Thank you for your comment! We just posted 2nd video which is about Ivan's sharpening with NSK Kogyo's stone. I hope you can check it soon.
Thank you I follow Ivan's amazing work for longtime .It's so good to see fresh videos from you guys often now .I'm going to buy and use all the Oboro set .
Kind regards Balazs 😊
Do you need to soak these stones?
Hi, and chance I can get some info on what a good basic grit progression with these would be? 400 800 2000 4000?
It's depend on the sharpening what you would do, but for new line Oboro Knife, we recommend #200, 400, 800, 2000 would be the good set.
@@komonjapan And how would you rate these vs Naniwa professional stones? In speed/ feedback and longevity. And if you would gradually switch from naniwas, which ones would you replace first. (have 400 800 1000 2000 3000 and 8000). My main use are some of my japanese kitchen knives, like my fujiwara denka etc
Both Hakuto1 and Oboro Knife are harder, faster cutting speed and have excellent feed back, the Oboro knife being harder of the two.
To start I would recommend Oboro Knife #400 or if you are only maintaining the edge Hakuto1 #1500.
The Oboro Knife #400 is very egressive and can remove minor chips or reset bevels quickly, the Hakuto1 #1500 is a good all round stone either on its own or as a transitional stone into higher grits.
@@komonjapan thank you very much for the reply, and I assume both outperform naniwas when it comes to more excotic steels due to the diamonds. (High vanadium steels)
And do they last as long as a normal whetstone or longer?
Hello, could I speak with someone regarding these stones? I have a couple more questions on the features of these stones.
Of course! You can always contact us through Komon's website.
@@komonjapan as a point of reference for wear, how many knives can you sharpen on kyokuha series until you need to re-flatten the stone?
Thanks for your question! It is a little difficult to answer because so many variables that play into 'how often you need to flatten'. For example- what type of knife are you sharpening (single bevel vs double bevel)? Are you doing edge sharpening or thinning? What state of polishing are you in? All of these can give drastically different answers.
That said, for reference, when Ivan used to use Chosera stones for rough polishing, he often found he needed to re-flatten his stones every 10-15 minutes to maintain performance. With the NSK Diamond stones, there are times when he doesn't need to flatten more than once in a two-hour session. For honbazuke (final edge sharpening) with NSK Diamond stones he feels the need to flatten even less than that.
Hope this helps!
@@komonjapan mostly for general sharpening but also reprofiling.
@@Stgpx9 it's not even about flatting with abrasives like this. it's just about refreshing the surface. You could call it "unclogging" the stone. You do this as often as you'd like based on how you use it. The stone itself should never go out of flat much if used correctly and the stone itself should have a very long service life. that is my exerinced with such stones but I have never seen a very soft one.
I generally like harder low grit stones and softer higher grit stones. The reasons are obvious. So these are bonded diamond with different levels of hardness and "friabilty" in the bonding, obvious the diamond itself isn't friable. the bonding is. I feel like most users don't even really know how to do things well enough to warrant equipment like that but I'd love to get something like that in a lower grit for sure. I'd like to get a fast cutting hard 200 mostly cuz coated abrasives suck. A nice like finer course stone or courser medium stone, say somewhere like 600 lets say. and finer medium stone or a courser fine stone like 3k lets say. anything beyond that i'd just use diamond on wood.
That make sense what you write. For the preference, we recommend using a the new series Oboro Knife #200-800 is for rough sharpening, and the Hakuto2 3000S and 6000S (softer stone) is for medium polishing, we believe you’ll like the combination.
Where can I get that 150 grit.??
Unfortunately, the lowest sharpening stone NSK Kogyo currently produces is the Oboro Knife #200 or Hakuto1 #200.
Idk what hes talking about when he says other products on the market are not accurate. the only times I've seen this issue is when they have binders that are abrasive in themselves. or its a bootleg product. getting very accurately graded industrial diamond abrasive powder isn't difficult. even consumers can buy it in small quantities for not very much money. I've never seen this issue unless I don't understand what he means. One of the only consumer products on the market for instance the naniwa diamond stones, they are exactly what it says on the box. Not many other consumer goods on the market like that so again IDK what he's getting at.
Thank you for your comments. This is from a person who worked in the Japanese sharpening stone manufacturing industry for many years, and he told me that in Japan there are no set rules for determining the grain size of sharpening stones. The grain size is determined by the manufacturer's own sense. For example, even if the same 800 grit is used, the roughness varies slightly from company to company, so depending on the sharpener and the steel to be sharpened, it may be difficult to move from coarse to fine sharpening stones in that order because the grit depth is not consistent with what the manufacturer has stated on the product, This is a big problem for some sharpeners who use the 800 grit but are not able to produce the exact scratch.