Nice bit of kit, cheap enough to just give a go and not worry. Same with server PSUs... Usually I have to modify mine to run in series (floating the negative output), but they are so damn cheap I don't worry if one lets the magic smoke out. Surplus sellers love selling em in bulk, and I usually get em $5 a pop. Back when I worked in I.T., Id get so many PSUs for free from the constant upgrade process. We almost never resold the hardware, we had an onsite scrap processing zone. Induction and high current is always so much fun
I have just received the Banggood 2500W ZVS driver. I have three 12v/62A server PSU's (indentical to yours) in series and working fine at full test load...(may get a 4th). The ZVS has SIX FET's (two sets in parallel for each phase)....about to test the IH when assembled. One thing that has bothered me about these drivers from the beginning is that all seems to depend on the FET gates NOT turning on simultanusualy at power-up. With SIX FET's, this concerns me even more: Now SIX FET's are under this constrant!! ALL THREE on one phase must turn on BEFORE ALL THREE on the other side! What if, for one example, TWO on one side and only ONE on the other turn on first?? Especially over many power ON-OFF cycles as the device is used over time. I always thought that a slight difference in resistor sets may be an answer, i.e. ~ 470 OHMs for one set and 480 OHMs for the other??? Any thoughts on this? I already replace the wirewound resistors with 5W metal oxide to cut down on parasitic LC oscillations. THANKS MUCH!! ...Also, I do wonder if the supplies can be turned on/off via the low current jumpers rather than 230VAC switches (I have no schematics to verify this), as this may allow digital control here.
i know its an old video.. but you can give it power power by using 4 power supplies as it goes up till 48v. Only thing is that the fan controller and pump controller circuit they include cannot be used when you go above 40 Only thing minus adding the heated pads is i would always run the unit horizontal rather then sideways because heatsinks dont work very well when you tilt them at an angle.
I supply the pump and fans from a tap on one of the power supplies, its just a extra wire to get 12V from the first grounded power supply. Forced air cooled heat sinks does not worry about orientation, but more about available space for good air flow.
Any plans to use it for blacksmithing? I also wonder if, by using a differently shaped coil, one of those induction heaters would work as a DC powered induction cooker for off grid use.
I will give it to my father that does black smithing, more specifically knifes. You could insert a pan into a larger coil or experiment with a flat pancake coil to make this into a induction cooker, that will work just fine.
Current is not changed, the load is changing and thus the current draw rises. When the IH is just powered up without anything in the coil, the power use is just the losses in the coil itself. Once a work piece is inserted, the energy transferred to the work piece draws a lot of power. This also stabilizes at a equilibrium, just like when there is no load.
its an older video, but never the less . you need to put the working coil a little further from the components board .even whit the cooling sistem you risck to overheating the thing , and if you put the coil in to a termic enclosure , you wont have sufficient space to doit .a small modification that might save you some troubles along the way .anyway , once again, good design :) have funn
If you check out one of the later videos, where I added insulation, the heat from the work piece melted some of the HDPE cutting board in the front. It is not heat from the work coil that is the problem, but from the work piece.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk seenit now. iup.. kind of my point . you need the working coil much more further from the electronics , and maybe some brick heat resistant enclosure . at least for my end goal (melting metals ) i thinked to that kind of enclosure . anyway, a extra half meter distance betwin "engine" and the coil , + the soft heat protection should keep your machine portabile and protected
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150W induction heater: th-cam.com/video/A8FWSzfHgGc/w-d-xo.html
1800W induction heater: th-cam.com/video/jmAZhjl8Ybk/w-d-xo.html
36V 2200W server power supply: th-cam.com/video/xRAlXCzsY3Q/w-d-xo.html
40V 2000W laptop power supply: th-cam.com/video/5iMFYdDMfXo/w-d-xo.html
1800W IH 10 minute stress test: th-cam.com/video/v-TsBLFp8yo/w-d-xo.html
Nice bit of kit, cheap enough to just give a go and not worry. Same with server PSUs... Usually I have to modify mine to run in series (floating the negative output), but they are so damn cheap I don't worry if one lets the magic smoke out. Surplus sellers love selling em in bulk, and I usually get em $5 a pop. Back when I worked in I.T., Id get so many PSUs for free from the constant upgrade process. We almost never resold the hardware, we had an onsite scrap processing zone.
Induction and high current is always so much fun
Agreed, the price tags on all components are so low that it is no bigger worry :)
I have just received the Banggood 2500W ZVS driver. I have three 12v/62A server PSU's (indentical to yours) in series and working fine at full test load...(may get a 4th). The ZVS has SIX FET's (two sets in parallel for each phase)....about to test the IH when assembled.
One thing that has bothered me about these drivers from the beginning is that all seems to depend on the FET gates NOT turning on simultanusualy at power-up. With SIX FET's, this concerns me even more: Now SIX FET's are under this constrant!! ALL THREE on one phase must turn on BEFORE ALL THREE on the other side! What if, for one example, TWO on one side and only ONE on the other turn on first?? Especially over many power ON-OFF cycles as the device is used over time. I always thought that a slight difference in resistor sets may be an answer, i.e. ~ 470 OHMs for one set and 480 OHMs for the other??? Any thoughts on this?
I already replace the wirewound resistors with 5W metal oxide to cut down on parasitic LC oscillations.
THANKS MUCH!!
...Also, I do wonder if the supplies can be turned on/off via the low current jumpers rather than 230VAC switches (I have no schematics to verify this), as this may allow digital control here.
i know its an old video.. but you can give it power power by using 4 power supplies as it goes up till 48v.
Only thing is that the fan controller and pump controller circuit they include cannot be used when you go above 40
Only thing minus adding the heated pads is i would always run the unit horizontal rather then sideways because heatsinks dont work very well when you tilt them at an angle.
I supply the pump and fans from a tap on one of the power supplies, its just a extra wire to get 12V from the first grounded power supply. Forced air cooled heat sinks does not worry about orientation, but more about available space for good air flow.
Hehe I'm building one thinking of using a rectified buzzbox as the power supply but I think I could find some server PSU's cheap enough.
Amazing! Now you have to buy a big anvil, some work hammers, and for safety... a nice fire extinguisher ;-)
My father got all he smithing tools, he will also get this machine from me :)
Any plans to use it for blacksmithing? I also wonder if, by using a differently shaped coil, one of those induction heaters would work as a DC powered induction cooker for off grid use.
I will give it to my father that does black smithing, more specifically knifes. You could insert a pan into a larger coil or experiment with a flat pancake coil to make this into a induction cooker, that will work just fine.
Do you think this induction heater could levitate a small ball of aluminum with the proper coil setup?
No, it is simply not powerful enough. The small coil needed for a small load like that, would result in a too high frequency.
Where did you get the insulation used on the coil? What type of material is it?
I bought fiber glass tubing on ebay like this www.ebay.com/i/353171117016
What dictates the amount of amps being used? You aren't changing the voltage really, so the current is being changed?
Current is not changed, the load is changing and thus the current draw rises. When the IH is just powered up without anything in the coil, the power use is just the losses in the coil itself. Once a work piece is inserted, the energy transferred to the work piece draws a lot of power. This also stabilizes at a equilibrium, just like when there is no load.
YOU SHOULD WRITE IN THE TITTLE 2kw INDUCTION HEATER. LOL.. AWESOME !!!
What is your input voltage to the psu?
230VAC single phase
its an older video, but never the less . you need to put the working coil a little further from the components board .even whit the cooling sistem you risck to overheating the thing , and if you put the coil in to a termic enclosure , you wont have sufficient space to doit .a small modification that might save you some troubles along the way .anyway , once again, good design :) have funn
If you check out one of the later videos, where I added insulation, the heat from the work piece melted some of the HDPE cutting board in the front. It is not heat from the work coil that is the problem, but from the work piece.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk seenit now. iup.. kind of my point . you need the working coil much more further from the electronics , and maybe some brick heat resistant enclosure . at least for my end goal (melting metals ) i thinked to that kind of enclosure . anyway, a extra half meter distance betwin "engine" and the coil , + the soft heat protection should keep your machine portabile and protected