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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.พ. 2020
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In this darkroom experiment we take a look at the dilution differences of Kodak D-76 stock vs 1+2.
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I come back to this video often to refresh my brain ❤
Good to watch! Was just working on some D76 videos!!
Looking forward to it!
I always wondered about the differences of stock vs. 1+2. I started out using D-76 1+2 in college but then moved to Rodinal and never got around to comparing the two D76s. It was nice to finally see a comparison. Thanks.
Thank you, well done comparison.
Thanks Blue :)
Nice to see more names added at the end of the video, well done.
It’s interesting to see the comparison. I haven’t used Kodak products for quite a few years now (I have a professional relationship with Ilford), but if I recall correctly I wasn’t keen on d76. So it’s cool to see this.
Thanks for that. So am I. I may need a second page soon, a good problem to have!
I use d76 a lot, normally at 1:1, sometimes at stock - thanks for doing this: very useful info, Azriel.
Thanks :)
I shoot a lot of Kentmere 400 (box speed) and I use D76, I have found that I like my negatives better when I dilute 1:1. I'm sure this has a lot to do with the way I meter a scene and agitate my film too. I think we just have to experiment to figure out what we like.
i used like 3 months "exhausted" d76 at 1+3 and my negs turned out dense enough for me 🤷🏾♂️
I‘m using it at full strength but just for the sake of saving space when store the used soup in a canister...
Timely! I have some D76 on it's way from Adorama and was on the fence on diluting vs stock. I imagine of you were to try 1:1, you wouldn't realize the same benefits either way?
Hey Rick. From what I hear a lot like 1+1, you will likely see results in between what I showed.
Great video. Are you using Dektol as your print developer?
Thanks Bill. I am using Dektol!
Kodak originally designed D-76 to be used at stock with a carefully calculated addition of a replentisher solution after each use to compensate of consumption of developing agents in the stock solution. When I first started doing B&W about 60 years ago, that's what you did. Now, there's no way you could get people to manage that process at home, so you either just reuse the exhausting stock solution and watch your development consistency slide off the rails, or you dilute the unused stock 1:2 for one-shot use. One-shot will retain rigid consistence you can never get by just adding some extra time when reusing the ever more exhausted stock. This consistence is very important if you are making prints in a darkroom, because you have fairly limited controls over print characteristics without going to huge trouble. The last thing you need is a batch of negatives changing density and contrast on you. If you are scanning, it's not so important because you have more digital adjustments available, and because the uses for most scanned images are not that critical.
Back in the day I always used D76 or Ilford ID11 1:1 with TriX (generally @ 400). It was capable of superb results and would still be my preference.
Good to know, thanks Mark!
Thanks for this video! But how are you getting 38 rolls from 1+2? If you use a 16oz tank that’s just over 5oz of d76 right? Which would only give you 24 rolls from the gallon no? Sorry I’m just learning let me know what I’m missing. Thank you!
Thanks for the question Nicholas. This is based on a single reel tank and 35mm only. so 300ml tank, or 100ml of D76 per, with a bag that provides a total of 3.8L.
I hope this answers it!
@@AzrielKnight Yes it does thank you!
Thanks so much for this! Just got my D-76. I'm just getting back into developing my own film. A colleague who makes his own BW chem told me that developing BW film in straight Dektol gives an insane amount of grain. Have you tried this?
I have and it does :)
@@AzrielKnight oh awesome! What film did you try? I shoot on Tmax3200. Do you have a video about it?
Tri-x and no, no episode, but i might.
i've seen people talking about using d-76/id-11 to develop the print.
what do you think?
Rafael Ramos da Costa I have used it to develop paper negatives. Works fine.
No 1:1 or 1:3, or is that another video?
Definitely dilute it 1+2. Find it much easier not worrying about developing times. Works very well with Tri-X at ISO 400. Try and see how you like Ilford HP5 with it. Used quite a bit of Arista brand, reboxed Ilford at the time in the mid 80's Fun stuff. My go-to developer...
Easy to measure as well. Thanks for the comment.
I get a 3.8 liter bag, then when it is time to develop I get 20-25 gram powder per roll and go for stock development.
When I don't use the powder developer I set a strong piece of tape on the small opening that I cut in the bag so that air doesn't ruin the powder!
Interesting. I've read that the contents need to be poured in its entirety to prevent lobsided ratios but never tried it.
How many rolls do you get?
@@AzrielKnight around 20
@@AzrielKnight doing this method I go by the recommended dev times for my fim and don't have to add more powder in order to get the strength of the chemicals back.
Yes I admit that I am probably wasting some of the chemicals and would be able to develop a extra roll using the already mixed powder but I don't want to gamble with my roll.
Thanks Azriel. I am giving a try to Kodak d-76. I want to make 1+2 dilution but I do not find the times I need. I had a look to the time chart and the times doesn't look as straight as when processing with Rodinal or Hc-110. Do you know the how to get the times from 1+1 or stock solution. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment! I'm tossing out some Discord invites today, you may be able to find your answers there.
discord.gg/rbvcmgxJ
@@AzrielKnight Thanks, I will have a look.
Would you (or the commentators) recommend them for starting out in developing? (For foma 400 in 135)
D76 is the gold standard by which all others are compared.
@@AzrielKnight alright then! It mentions that as a good one on the data sheet. I was thinking xtol initially, but d76 seems to give it a bit more sensitivity. Thank you
Hi Azriel, thank you for the great episode, it's quite reasonable at least try to save some money with developer. I only developed two rolls, but I found the process really interesting. Unfortunately it doesn't make sense in terms of money. Our lab provides free developing when you order to scan the roll. So, I tried to develop just for fun and I really enjoyed it. Considering to build some primitive scanning tool with smartphone) Best regards from Moscow.
Hey! Thanks for the comment. If I had a lab that was cheaper and I didn't care about waiting, I would do probably use it at least sometimes.
Also, thanks for being the first to sign up to the YT loyalty program!
Hi Azriel, problem here is that nowhere (even the MDC) mentions D76/Ilford ID-11 at 1+2. Stock, 1+1 or 1+3 no problem, but 1+2 seems to be very much in the "try it and see" realm. Annoying to be honest as I'm sort of forced to use 1+3 for 20 minutes until I can afford the time and filmstock to experiment a little. What is even more perplexing is the fact I'm sure that back in the 1980's, both Ilford and Kodak listed development times for 1+2 ID-11/D-76. Maybe they didn't and it's all part of some crazy dream :) Anyway, many thanks for the video, it at least proves that somebody somewhere has researched the subject.
Thanks for the comment Lloyd!
Kodak's D76 replenisher has not been available for years, but I could make my own, I just choose not to. 1+2 is not a dilution I have ever tried.
Another excellent experiment. Proves the robustness of the modern chemical process. Use more, buy more -or risk a roll of film and thin it out as far as it goes. I know which one I'm in favour of. I tend to extend the time my film is in developer/fix etc by 25% anyway, rather that than find its all a bit washed out.
You add 25% to developing time?
Yep, don't find a problem. Mind you I will tend to re-use developer/fix etc. I tend not to shoot more than a couple of rolls with any one camera, as I suffer from GAS and a week later I'm shooting with a completely different camera. Variations are most likely due to exposure in camera rather than any chemical over-use. I'm also doing a good pre-heat/wash and giving the dried developed film a second wash under a warm tap (faucet) to remove any residue. Comes out clean and shiny. If a film can manage stand development I can't see how giving it a little extra time can harm it. Don't tend to be a clock watcher, tend to go with gut instinct when it comes to timing. Probably too many variables for your more scientific mind ;-)
1:1 is the classic dilution not 1:2. You get full film speed, excellent acutance with restrained grain.
Thanks for the comment, but you get "full film speed" regardless of dilution.
Why not testing 1+1 dilution?
Not enough of a difference between stock and 1+1, so I went with 1+2. People can assume 1+1 lies somewhere in between the results.
mmhh? A diluted developer works faster than an undiluted? 3:26...
The second column is the additional time it takes for each set, not the total.
Opinions from a self-described total noob… D76 to me IS black and white photography, it’s the classic. D76 is to developers what Tri-X is to film. Not technically the best but for better or worse, it’s the gold standard by which all developers are compared to. That’s my perception of it anyway.
Not too long ago I bought a sealed box of Kodak Super-X that expired in 1939, which of course I promptly unsealed… and inside there was a pamphlet with all the info about the film, including not only a suggestion to process it in D76, but also the entire recipe to make your own D76 from scratch!
The problem with D76 for me is it’s shelf life. I personally don’t shoot film frequently enough to make use of all of it, so anytime I’ve bought and mixed up a gallon, at least half of it has totally gone to waste. It is not cost efficient in my case, and for that reason l personally would never dilute it. I also love the simplicity of having an already mixed stock solution that I can just pour out and use one-shot.
I’ve switched to HC-110 which isn’t my first choice, and mixing up up exact dilutions every time is a chore, but the long shelf life makes self-dev b&w a little more practical for me. If I decide to shoot another roll or two a few months from now, it’ll still be there for me in a usable form. I just disposed of some d76 I mixed up about 9 months ago, straight up looked like something alive was growing in the bottle.
I come back to this video often to refresh my brain ❤