Thank You!! Very, very informative! I really appreciate the time you spent doing this. I have recently retired and have again taken up my youth-full passion of Analog Photography . . . medium format with the Hasselblad V system. I will be applying these lessons in my own darkroom. Thank you again!
Great video as usual, Borut! Thanks. I ran a commercial B&W lab for several years, you're right on the money. Enjoy your Paris trip! Hope to see more on these darkroom techniques soon!!
Thank you! These things I've learned as a student in 1994-98 and now it's all coming back. All I needed is what is best motivation for every photographer and that is ... Another new camera!
Topshit vlog as always Borut, thank you for sacrificing your sleep to make it!! Fascinating difference between the two dilutions, I didn't expect it to be so different. Hope you have a great trip to Paris.
Yes, 1+3 dilution have its place, but I didn't cover that in the video. Like photojournalists were using 1+3 developer to get sharper, more contrasty image. I suspect Corbin was using that for his B&W band shots of Nick Cave and U2.
Always informative and very entertaining Mr B :-) Thank you....... You've opened my eyes to stock developing :-) & yes... I'd love to hear more about D76 and ID11 :-)
I am very interested, please do more videos like this. I have recently retired and got back to analog medium format (Hasselblad System V) photography. This was the best side by side comparison of stock vs diluted developer I have seen to date. My go to films are Ilford Pan F Plus 50 asa and Kodak Tri-x 400 with D-76 or Microdol X. Thanks! Subscribed and liked :)
Interesting video, I think I will test my own negs now with this method. I did a few rolls of TMax 400 in D76 1:1 and loved the results. Thanks for doing these videos and sharing your knowledge to the community!!
Thing is with 1:3 dilution is it's not consistent and you have to keep altering times, that's the reason I use 1:1 and throw it after each use. I prefer 1:1 dilution as well in terms of quality of image. It gives me four 120 rolls per 1L. Stock solution starts getting expensive when you develop quite a lot of rolls.
I've always been the type to research the sht out of things before I get involved. Then, I go with my gut feeling. I haven't developed film since 1987 and this video has helped point me in the right direction. I also noticed that you didn't use the X-pan so if it's taking up too much space you can always send it my way and I'll make use of it... :)
Thank you for your comment. Concerning the X-pan, I wish you would made the comment a day earlier. You are right I am not using x-pan at all, since I have Linhof Technorama. Anyway since I don't use the x-pan and yesterday it was quite cold so I've used the x-pan as a burning wood. It didn't emit that much heat, I tell you, just a lot of smoke and the not to mention the ash and other remains... I was deeply disappointed with X-Pan and I would gladly send it to you, if you would just ask a day earlier...
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography Well, had I known I would have suggested a BBQ, nothing like cooking out over an old Hasselblad. Let me know if you plan on an X-pan II cookout, I'll bring the bratwurst, lol. On a more serious note, do you have a favorite film and ISO that you work with? I love your attention to detail with the development process.
Greetings from Florida. Just happened up on your channel. You have amazingly strong content. Very easy to understand and follow. Your explanation of what is taking place in dark room. Is very interesting. I have recently gotten back into photography and shooting film. I have developed my own, back when I worked at the newspaper. It’s good to have unbiased information. We had to use what they provided. With very little time to process. Every thing was needed. Like ten minutes ago. I see you have a 4x5 camera. Learning a good amount from your blogs. Thank you for doing this. Any more prints going to eBay?
As you are mixing D76 from scratch, maybe you want to experiment with some variants. I've made Adox MQ, a variant with 80g sulphite instead of the 100g (that seems to gain some bite being dulled by the extra sulphite) , some added potassium bromide (fresh D76 is quite active, as I've read, and it mellows with time in a replenishment system - the bromide works as an antifoggant). There's an corresponding replenisher recipe; I typically make 2l of stock solution, 2l of replenisher, and replenish 20-25 ml per 35mm roll processed. It's quite consisten and I kinda like it more than straight D76 - even if it's a placebo effect ha!
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography No worries! Times would need to be adjusted up a bit - from 25 to 33%, as you are both adding less sulfite (accelerant) and adding a small amount of restrainer (potassium bromide).
Ahh, I remember developing film, such an interesting thing to do, compared with sticking a memory card in a computer. Thank you for refreshing my memory, and knowledge!
Excellent and timely for me. I am planning to shoot more film, medium and 4 by 5. I will also use my Leicas for 35mm. I have been wondering about film development. D-76 was the standby in school and I will use that soon. Any info on processing old roll film appreciated.
I used D76 for years processing mainly TX 400 if the guys wanted to push things we used HC110 to push Tri x to 1600 very grainy, though it worked well enough. The D 76 is very forgiving - gives a wide latitude - stay safe
Hi there - interesting. I remember my grandfather (who introduced me to photography decades ago) telling me - also a long time ago - that Kodak D-76 and Ilford ID-11 were identical film developers but I’ve never heard anyone else say that since ... until now! By the way, Land Rovers which are made in my hometown in England, seem to get everywhere!
This video was watched before Dank Spangle became famous and no longer had time to comment on Borut's videos. (Love your videos.)(And your photos.)(Put more on the bay.)
I will do so. One more hour of travel until I come back home. I don't like Paris as much as I like my woodland. By the way, if you want to make a disclaimer for my vlog just send me a voice recording: This video was made before Borut Peterlin became rich & famous and ....... (Remember it has to be short) my email is borutpeterlin@gmail.com Thank you!
thanks, I didn't know that the highlights were more affected by the diluted developer and I expected the lower contrast. Accutance seems better with the undiluted version, may be the contrast increase.
Yes, the weak developer doesn't have the strength to build silver on shadows, but highlights are catching proportionally much more silver then shadows, thus "overblown" highlights. In Anchell's book The Darkroom Cookbook it is described how dilution enhance the sharpness of the grain, but in my test that's not so evident. I think it will be more obvious with normal analogue blowup with my super sharp Durst 138s enlarger.
slowly and methodically is the recommended way. The excessive shaking of the tank will make highlights a bit brighter possibly overblown, but I doubt it. It adds a bit of the contrast. That said, try it out for yourself and see what works best in combination with your enlarger. The habit of violent shaking is coming from my student years when I had an enlarger with multigrade head, meaning diffused unfocused light and I needed stronger more contrasy negatives. Now, when I use condenser head I should not do that anymore, but it's a habit...
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography ah, I use a colour head so diffused! Thanks for telling me this. I will probably shake it more hard when a roll has been shot in flat light
Very interesting comparison. For many years I was assembling the developer from separate ingredients just like you do. I was satisfied with the results until I bought the original D-76. I have the impression that the films have a slightly finer grain. Is it possible that Kodak would add a secret ingredient to its recipe?
I don't know about the grain difference, but certainly original D-76 has an ingredient that makes it possible to mix together powders together without metol reacting to hidroqinon. (I'm not sure which component is in "conflict" with the other.) That is why ID-11 is in two bags and D-76 is in one bag.
Thank you for your quick answer. In fact, the original D-76 is in one package. This can have a slight effect on the appearance of the grain. However, the differences noticed by me are so small that a cheaper option to assemble the developer from different components will be an obvious choice. In my country it is up to 10 times cheaper. The only problem is that chemicals should be purchased in bulk quantities.
I've developed tens of thousands of films and I have more an attitude of a cook than a scientist. I can bet you if someone or even yourself, you develop two rolls of film, you couldn't tell the difference between the one done with destiled water and one with ordinary tap water. It's true what you say, theoretically, but more importantly than the water is what kind of enlarger do you use and what is your personal preference in the aesthetic. It's just like cooking, it's a matter of taste.
Definitely interesting. I've been using D-76 for months now, but only stock. Based on this, I can't really tell why it would be used diluted as the results of the stock version develop faster and look much better in the end.
Better is not a proper word, when diluted the stock you got better and more smooth grain than not to, better using diluted chemical while you are doing portrait or any theme that require fine grain and detail if you need to enlarge it. Pushing the film is the main reason to me using a stock chemical. Also, a thinner film like ACROS100 or Foma, PAN-F & Delta series from Ilford, you better use a diluted formula (D76 1+1/1+3 or so).
I HEAR YOU MORTAL! I hear you and that is why I've published incomplete list of workshops for 2019. Follow the link on my website and of course, SUBSCRIBE! ;-) www.borutpeterlin.com
This is pretty awesome, Borut! I would be interested in seeing more of this. I have used d-76 stock for a couple years. I never went through the process of diluting it. I would love to get the recipe you are using there! Thank you for sharing. How about using d-76 with expired film?
Oh, I haven't wrote the receipt: 750water 2gr of Metol 100gr of Sodium sulfite 5gr of hydroquinone 2gr of borax But it's cheaper to buy the prepackaged developer, just sodium sulfite is more expensive than the developer these days...
happy new year! thank you for this, I am a fan of d76 as it has beautiful tonality and it is cheap. It was very interesting to see that 1+3 looked unsharp and a little muddy, I thought it would be the opposite as it is with Xtol (my favourite!). Can you solve this with sodium sulphite? I would like to know some more details on how you develop, like for example if you extend the developing time a little to have better separation and local contrast, or how you deal with various types of highlights. Thanks again and great video as always!
Cool video, really interesting how time and dilution effects the final result. Haven't used D-76 myself I usually use Tetenal Ultrafine... but maybe in the future. But anyway Happy new year!
Loved your way of explaining things,! I'm returning to developing after a few decades and just became a subscriber of your chanel. You're great and are doing an amazing work on this digital world. Watching this video I noted a small detail: (@ 9:34m) A dilution of 1:3 isn't: - one part of product plus - three parts of water? So, if you used 300 ml of developer shouldn't you've added 900 ml of water for a final 1.2 l of final solution? Isn't the dilution you used here actually 1:2 - 300ml of developer + 600 ml of water (for a final 900ml)? Thanks for sharing you experiences, good work and being so good at it! See ya!
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography Hi! It would be great if you could compare xtol and D76/id11. I'm thinking od switching from id11 to xtol. According to this episode: very interesting, I can't wait to see prints and comment about sodium sulfite. Szczęśliwego Nowego Roku!
Pulling=better grain+decrease of contrast, Diluted stock=better grain+decrease of contrast. It just depends on how much contrast and grain you need (And what type of film you are using)
@@joehsu6975 what do you mean by better grain? Smaller, sharper? Or better tonality, less pronounced grain? Because rich sodium sulphide developer will dissolve some silver from the film and "rub" it back between halide crystals, so the result will be better tonality, but less sharp grain. For the pull process, I would recommend stock solution, but that said, it's my guess, I haven't test that.
Smaller the size of halide silver crystals will be better performance of the grain I could say. I do agree with you that it also makes rich tonality and it needs some bigger crystalline solid to "sharpen" the detail of the film. But to some film pulling and use of stock solution just make the develop time too short to react... it could depend on different combination tho... (BTW, I'm thinking if I should use diluted solution to push my film now, even the chemical effect seems gonna slow down, I personly use stock to shorten the pushing process, blurring now.😂 ) @@BorutPeterlinPhotography
I want to see the follow-up. That was one of the more topsh...., uh, i mean, informative and entertaining videos I have seen on the film development in a while.
It's a good developer for fine grain or push process, it can be replenished and stored, it comes in powder that is cheaper to ship and better to store, so basically it became a standard developer for the industry from 1927 when it was introduced. It is not excelling in any way, it's not better then Rodinal for sharpness and it's not better than Microphen in push process, but D-76 does everything. In last half a century there wasn't a film maker that would produce a film which wouldn't behave well in D-76, that's another reason.
Subscribed! Love the informal yet engaging style of your videos. I am new to darkroom printing, possible to do some videos on darkrooms techniques? Topshit forever!!
I'm still in Paris due to heavy snow storm in Germany and Austria. I'll go tomorrow, but I'll take the route through Italy, Milano, Venice Ljubljana where there isn't any snow. So yes, next week!
yes, I'll compare different cameras for the same job and I'll compare Xpan, Technorama, Fuji GSW 6x9 and digital D850 with panoramic head. It's whole lot of work to do that, though...
I enjoyed this and learned from it. Your agitation method is unlike any I’ve seen, with the possible exception of one in a movie one time.... So, yeah, show us your development workflow. There are too many misconceptions about developing, I think, and too many sacred cows-too many misremembered or misunderstood Ansel Adams bromides.
Is it really down to developer difference? It basically looks like the photo from diluted developer is moved during exposure. I doubt that you would shake it on the tripod using cord but still, this is how it looks.
I share your exact thoughts. I am planning to do the second part of the test and I'll repeat the test. I'm also suspecting that the scanner and scanning played a part in it.
I like your channel, so you got a new subscriber! :) I have a question...how did you cut the film in half in the dark to develop in two different developers? How did you know you weren't going to cut the image by accident?
I spent 15 to 20 years with a black and white darkroom. It has wonderful memories, but I wouldn't go back unless there is a gun to head. I used microphen with replenisher a lot
The other way is to use a developer that is already in liquid form and you just dilute it. It can not get airborne and if you wear glows and apron it can not get on you, so under condition that you aren't developing in a kitchen sink, you will be safe from Metol regardless if it is in the developer or not.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography I use gloves for both printing and dev, but still itches like hell. Have tried without glove on one hand to see if its the gloves but that was awful lol. It must be developer and probably metol. Almost seems to get worse each time i develope. 3-4 days of itchy hands. Will have to try one without :) thanks for the replay!
Ilford Microphen is phenidol based. No metol. Similar to ID11 / D76 but gives just a little bit more film speed (a 'push'). Perfectly good as your everyday developer, though. There are many others. Rodinal is liquid, last forever (longest shelf life of any liquid developer) and no metol. I use it a lot because I leave big gaps between developing films and when I come back to do some more film photography - Rodinal is the only developer than hasn't gone bad... Bit grainy compared to ID11 but again, can be used as your every day developer if you don't mind a bit of grain. Both should be easy to obtain anywhere you can get any developer.
Hey you making cocktails or developing film? Slowly slowly with the inversions :) - Would love to hear the answer and how dilution effects other developers as well such as Xtol. I develop film in the bathroom and avoid metol as I don't want to trigger a reaction other members of my family and get band!
Metol can cause allergic dermatological reactions, but I seriously doubt it would in such a small quantities and if well cleaned after. I heard about gentle inversion method preferred by some, I always done it with some extra strength. I guess it doesn't really matter, or at least in the last three decades as I am developing films, I haven't noticed any problem with it. Photography is like cooking, some prefer this to other.
Well, I have this version: www.sekonic.com/united-states/products/l-398a/overview.aspx It says it has an amorphous photocell in it (=solar cell), which is: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amorphous_silicon. So, it is silicone based. I had a selenium based light meter in the past, but that one showed that there is light even in total darkness. It wasn't accurate in low light.
Hey, it looks like you're using a dilution factor rather than a dilution ratio. At 9:30 you state 1 to 3 but add 600ml of water to 300ml of developer, which is a 1 to 2 ratio - a 1 to 3 ratio dilution of 300ml developer would yield a total of 4 parts, or 1200ml total. Is this something simple that a ton of photographers are potentially getting wrong? Am I getting it wrong? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dilution_ratio
No, you are right, but my editing was wrong. I did dilute it properly, but after I finish my editing I go back and shorten the vlog where I can. Obviously, as you correctly noticed, I haven't made the editing cut properly. If I wouldn't dilute it properly the development wouldn't be correct, which is not what happened.
D-76 is the most famous developer because it's the most versatile, multipurpose developer and it can be successfully replenished. It was introduced in 1927 and ever since all film manufacturers were making films that develop well in D-76. Rodinal is more specialised developer and for dedicated method superior to D-76. Actually D-76 is not excelling neither in sharpness, or fine grain or push process, it's just great developer for all of the films on the market, it does everything, but specialised developers do work better for the niche they were intended. Stick to Rodinal for low ISO films is my suggestion.
it depends from various factors: the film that ur using, if ur doing any pushing, the contrast that you want to achieve and for the most part personal taste. I personally shot HP5 rated at 1600 and i develop it in Ilfotech HC with very nice results, better than the one I got from D76.
that's probably the best side-by-side comparison that I've seen up to now. many thanks!
Happy Christmas and New Year. You say you develop in a different way, yeah would like to see that, always keen to learn new methods.
Your vlogs are very beautiful to see and very interesting. I’m learning much more from you than from other sites.
Keep it up!
My dude, this was both entertaining and super informative! Thank you!
Thank you. Yes , very interested to learn. More please.
Anthony
One of the best channels on TH-cam.....
Thank You!! Very, very informative! I really appreciate the time you spent doing this. I have recently retired and have again taken up my youth-full passion of Analog Photography . . . medium format with the Hasselblad V system. I will be applying these lessons in my own darkroom. Thank you again!
Great video as usual, Borut! Thanks. I ran a commercial B&W lab for several years, you're right on the money. Enjoy your Paris trip! Hope to see more on these darkroom techniques soon!!
Thank you! These things I've learned as a student in 1994-98 and now it's all coming back. All I needed is what is best motivation for every photographer and that is ... Another new camera!
Thank u for very nice information 😊
Topshit vlog as always Borut, thank you for sacrificing your sleep to make it!! Fascinating difference between the two dilutions, I didn't expect it to be so different. Hope you have a great trip to Paris.
Enjoy Paris! Merry Christmas and a happy new year! Absolutely would love to see how your development process looks like!
Cool video and laidback style! Subscribed !
Beautiful shot and informative.
This was fantastically informative, thank you so much for posting this.
Nice stuff! Love this channel!
Have a safe trip, Borut! Interesting comparison of dilutions - it's important to find what you want and need that suits your style!
Yes, 1+3 dilution have its place, but I didn't cover that in the video. Like photojournalists were using 1+3 developer to get sharper, more contrasty image. I suspect Corbin was using that for his B&W band shots of Nick Cave and U2.
Thanks for these videos, very informative. It is d76 and id-11 exactly the same formula? Any chance ilford made a better version?
Always informative and very entertaining Mr B :-) Thank you....... You've opened my eyes to stock developing :-) & yes... I'd love to hear more about D76 and ID11 :-)
Great video thanks for again making very informative & interesting videos.
Subscribed. Try not to die developing for our knowledge. Ha! I just discovered your channel. Happy New Year 2019! Topshit stuff!
I am very interested, please do more videos like this. I have recently retired and got back to analog medium format (Hasselblad System V) photography. This was the best side by side comparison of stock vs diluted developer I have seen to date. My go to films are Ilford Pan F Plus 50 asa and Kodak Tri-x 400 with D-76 or Microdol X. Thanks! Subscribed and liked :)
Yes please, would love to see how you develop from start to finish 👍👌
Great content. Looking forward to part 2.
Great vid and awesome photo!! I can see the big difference in not diluting....thanks for the info!
Interesting video, I think I will test my own negs now with this method. I did a few rolls of TMax 400 in D76 1:1 and loved the results. Thanks for doing these videos and sharing your knowledge to the community!!
Thing is with 1:3 dilution is it's not consistent and you have to keep altering times, that's the reason I use 1:1 and throw it after each use. I prefer 1:1 dilution as well in terms of quality of image. It gives me four 120 rolls per 1L. Stock solution starts getting expensive when you develop quite a lot of rolls.
I've always been the type to research the sht out of things before I get involved. Then, I go with my gut feeling. I haven't developed film since 1987 and this video has helped point me in the right direction. I also noticed that you didn't use the X-pan so if it's taking up too much space you can always send it my way and I'll make use of it... :)
Thank you for your comment. Concerning the X-pan, I wish you would made the comment a day earlier. You are right I am not using x-pan at all, since I have Linhof Technorama. Anyway since I don't use the x-pan and yesterday it was quite cold so I've used the x-pan as a burning wood. It didn't emit that much heat, I tell you, just a lot of smoke and the not to mention the ash and other remains... I was deeply disappointed with X-Pan and I would gladly send it to you, if you would just ask a day earlier...
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography Well, had I known I would have suggested a BBQ, nothing like cooking out over an old Hasselblad. Let me know if you plan on an X-pan II cookout, I'll bring the bratwurst, lol. On a more serious note, do you have a favorite film and ISO that you work with? I love your attention to detail with the development process.
Happy new year!!!
Would love to see/learn
More about your developing technique!
Greetings from Florida. Just happened up on your channel. You have amazingly strong content. Very easy to understand and follow. Your explanation of what is taking place in dark room. Is very interesting. I have recently gotten back into photography and shooting film. I have developed my own, back when I worked at the newspaper. It’s good to have unbiased information. We had to use what they provided. With very little time to process. Every thing was needed. Like ten minutes ago. I see you have a 4x5 camera. Learning a good amount from your blogs. Thank you for doing this. Any more prints going to eBay?
Thanks. Now I'm selling mostly through my website www.borutpeterlin.com/shop
Thanks ! Great video! Looking forward to see more on development!
As you are mixing D76 from scratch, maybe you want to experiment with some variants. I've made Adox MQ, a variant with 80g sulphite instead of the 100g (that seems to gain some bite being dulled by the extra sulphite) , some added potassium bromide (fresh D76 is quite active, as I've read, and it mellows with time in a replenishment system - the bromide works as an antifoggant). There's an corresponding replenisher recipe; I typically make 2l of stock solution, 2l of replenisher, and replenish 20-25 ml per 35mm roll processed. It's quite consisten and I kinda like it more than straight D76 - even if it's a placebo effect ha!
Thank you Santiago! If I may, I'll mention that option in my next D-76 story.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography No worries! Times would need to be adjusted up a bit - from 25 to 33%, as you are both adding less sulfite (accelerant) and adding a small amount of restrainer (potassium bromide).
Ahh, I remember developing film, such an interesting thing to do, compared with sticking a memory card in a computer. Thank you for refreshing my memory, and knowledge!
Great video, as always.
Hello thanks for this comparison.... the difference is very interresting. Particularly visible on the tree....
Welcome to france....!
Excellent and timely for me. I am planning to shoot more film, medium and 4 by 5. I will also use my Leicas for 35mm. I have been wondering about film development. D-76 was the standby in school and I will use that soon. Any info on processing old roll film appreciated.
I'd love to learn more about your chemical alchemy for black and white film.
Ovo je odlicno! Ne znam kako te ranije nisam pronasao ali better late then never :D
I want to know more about sodium topshit sulfite, D-76 is my sole B&W developer. Looking forward to part 2, safe travels.
Brother in Land Rover and in photography. Very good. 😊
I didn’t know you could shake the rank so hard. I always do gentle inversions. 🤣
Agree, I always gave the tank a thump to dislodge air bubbles as well.
please show how you develop films
Yes, Part 2. More discussion on diluted vs. non-diluted in general.
I used D76 for years processing mainly TX 400 if the guys wanted to push things we used HC110 to push Tri x to 1600 very grainy, though it worked well enough. The D 76 is very forgiving - gives a wide latitude - stay safe
Hi there - interesting. I remember my grandfather (who introduced me to photography decades ago) telling me - also a long time ago - that Kodak D-76 and Ilford ID-11 were identical film developers but I’ve never heard anyone else say that since ... until now! By the way, Land Rovers which are made in my hometown in England, seem to get everywhere!
Excellent video. I’m hoping to visit in 2019. All the best.
Thank you for making this, very informative!!!
This video was watched before Dank Spangle became famous and no longer had time to comment on Borut's videos. (Love your videos.)(And your photos.)(Put more on the bay.)
I will do so. One more hour of travel until I come back home. I don't like Paris as much as I like my woodland. By the way, if you want to make a disclaimer for my vlog just send me a voice recording:
This video was made before Borut Peterlin became rich & famous and ....... (Remember it has to be short) my email is borutpeterlin@gmail.com
Thank you!
thanks, I didn't know that the highlights were more affected by the diluted developer and I expected the lower contrast. Accutance seems better with the undiluted version, may be the contrast increase.
Yes, the weak developer doesn't have the strength to build silver on shadows, but highlights are catching proportionally much more silver then shadows, thus "overblown" highlights.
In Anchell's book The Darkroom Cookbook it is described how dilution enhance the sharpness of the grain, but in my test that's not so evident. I think it will be more obvious with normal analogue blowup with my super sharp Durst 138s enlarger.
Very interesting. Subscribed. Enjoy your trip!
I would love to see in-depth comparison and explanation about stock vs diluted. You're videos are great!
I always see lots of people violently shaking the tank when developing. I do it quite slowly and methodical. Does this mean I am agitating wrong?
slowly and methodically is the recommended way. The excessive shaking of the tank will make highlights a bit brighter possibly overblown, but I doubt it. It adds a bit of the contrast. That said, try it out for yourself and see what works best in combination with your enlarger. The habit of violent shaking is coming from my student years when I had an enlarger with multigrade head, meaning diffused unfocused light and I needed stronger more contrasy negatives. Now, when I use condenser head I should not do that anymore, but it's a habit...
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography ah, I use a colour head so diffused! Thanks for telling me this. I will probably shake it more hard when a roll has been shot in flat light
Very interesting comparison. For many years I was assembling the developer from separate ingredients just like you do. I was satisfied with the results until I bought the original D-76. I have the impression that the films have a slightly finer grain. Is it possible that Kodak would add a secret ingredient to its recipe?
I don't know about the grain difference, but certainly original D-76 has an ingredient that makes it possible to mix together powders together without metol reacting to hidroqinon. (I'm not sure which component is in "conflict" with the other.) That is why ID-11 is in two bags and D-76 is in one bag.
Thank you for your quick answer. In fact, the original D-76 is in one package. This can have a slight effect on the appearance of the grain. However, the differences noticed by me are so small that a cheaper option to assemble the developer from different components will be an obvious choice. In my country it is up to 10 times cheaper. The only problem is that chemicals should be purchased in bulk quantities.
Happy new year from Argentina. I love ur vlogs, the information you provide is very useful. Thx a lot. #analogisnotedead
What a cool video. Fresh!!
Why don't you use distilled water? Hard or soft water affect the activity of the developer and consequently developing times.
I've developed tens of thousands of films and I have more an attitude of a cook than a scientist. I can bet you if someone or even yourself, you develop two rolls of film, you couldn't tell the difference between the one done with destiled water and one with ordinary tap water. It's true what you say, theoretically, but more importantly than the water is what kind of enlarger do you use and what is your personal preference in the aesthetic. It's just like cooking, it's a matter of taste.
Definitely interesting. I've been using D-76 for months now, but only stock. Based on this, I can't really tell why it would be used diluted as the results of the stock version develop faster and look much better in the end.
Better is not a proper word, when diluted the stock you got better and more smooth grain than not to, better using diluted chemical while you are doing portrait or any theme that require fine grain and detail if you need to enlarge it. Pushing the film is the main reason to me using a stock chemical. Also, a thinner film like ACROS100 or Foma, PAN-F & Delta series from Ilford, you better use a diluted formula (D76 1+1/1+3 or so).
Where is the video about developing film ?
The next three vlogs are about the development of films.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography wow! I watched this video in the right year, not 2018 ahaha
I thought the oldest , and most famous film developer is Rodinal? Can you do an episode about it?
Yes, Rodinal is in production since 1891 and D-76 is from (if I remember correctly) 1927. No, enough about the developers, time for photography.
i dont know who you are
what u do for living
where are you from
but
teach me master!!!!
I HEAR YOU MORTAL! I hear you and that is why I've published incomplete list of workshops for 2019. Follow the link on my website and of course, SUBSCRIBE! ;-)
www.borutpeterlin.com
Can you buy pre-mixed developer?
Oh, of course. Not the FX-1, but all the rest, yes.
Very informative, thanks!
This is pretty awesome, Borut! I would be interested in seeing more of this. I have used d-76 stock for a couple years. I never went through the process of diluting it. I would love to get the recipe you are using there! Thank you for sharing. How about using d-76 with expired film?
Oh, I haven't wrote the receipt:
750water
2gr of Metol
100gr of Sodium sulfite
5gr of hydroquinone
2gr of borax
But it's cheaper to buy the prepackaged developer, just sodium sulfite is more expensive than the developer these days...
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography Thank you!
Your darkroom is cleaner than mine was back in 1970.
Super Meister borut... Keep going... topshit as usually... cheers Meister Hans
happy new year! thank you for this, I am a fan of d76 as it has beautiful tonality and it is cheap.
It was very interesting to see that 1+3 looked unsharp and a little muddy, I thought it would be the opposite as it is with Xtol (my favourite!). Can you solve this with sodium sulphite?
I would like to know some more details on how you develop, like for example if you extend the developing time a little to have better separation and local contrast, or how you deal with various types of highlights.
Thanks again and great video as always!
Cool video, really interesting how time and dilution effects the final result.
Haven't used D-76 myself I usually use Tetenal Ultrafine... but maybe in the future. But anyway Happy new year!
Loved your way of explaining things,! I'm returning to developing after a few decades and just became a subscriber of your chanel. You're great and are doing an amazing work on this digital world.
Watching this video I noted a small detail: (@ 9:34m) A dilution of 1:3 isn't:
- one part of product plus
- three parts of water?
So, if you used 300 ml of developer shouldn't you've added 900 ml of water for a final 1.2 l of final solution? Isn't the dilution you used here actually 1:2 - 300ml of developer + 600 ml of water (for a final 900ml)?
Thanks for sharing you experiences, good work and being so good at it! See ya!
Thanks for a great video! I switched from D76 1+1 to Xtol about 2 years ago, because D76 gave me so-so tonality and it looked kind of muddy.
You've made the right choice. Xtol is intended to be Kodak's update for D-76
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography Hi! It would be great if you could compare xtol and D76/id11. I'm thinking od switching from id11 to xtol. According to this episode: very interesting, I can't wait to see prints and comment about sodium sulfite. Szczęśliwego Nowego Roku!
Happy New Year!!
Very interested in seeing prints of these. First time I saw a difference between diluted vs stock developer.
I wonder I have been pulling my film for the first time. Will it be better to use stock solution when pulling. I have been diluting D76 1-1.
Pulling=better grain+decrease of contrast, Diluted stock=better grain+decrease of contrast. It just depends on how much contrast and grain you need (And what type of film you are using)
@@joehsu6975 what do you mean by better grain? Smaller, sharper? Or better tonality, less pronounced grain? Because rich sodium sulphide developer will dissolve some silver from the film and "rub" it back between halide crystals, so the result will be better tonality, but less sharp grain. For the pull process, I would recommend stock solution, but that said, it's my guess, I haven't test that.
Smaller the size of halide silver crystals will be better performance of the grain I could say. I do agree with you that it also makes rich tonality and it needs some bigger crystalline solid to "sharpen" the detail of the film. But to some film pulling and use of stock solution just make the develop time too short to react... it could depend on different combination tho... (BTW, I'm thinking if I should use diluted solution to push my film now, even the chemical effect seems gonna slow down, I personly use stock to shorten the pushing process, blurring now.😂 ) @@BorutPeterlinPhotography
I want to see the follow-up. That was one of the more topsh...., uh, i mean, informative and entertaining videos I have seen on the film development in a while.
You have ordinary and you have extraordinary. You have sh*t and you have topshit. Sh*t and topshit happens...
ftw @@BorutPeterlinPhotography
Yup... curious of your topcat method.
Enjoy Paris! I am interested in why D-76 is still so popular.
It's a good developer for fine grain or push process, it can be replenished and stored, it comes in powder that is cheaper to ship and better to store, so basically it became a standard developer for the industry from 1927 when it was introduced. It is not excelling in any way, it's not better then Rodinal for sharpness and it's not better than Microphen in push process, but D-76 does everything. In last half a century there wasn't a film maker that would produce a film which wouldn't behave well in D-76, that's another reason.
Subscribed! Love the informal yet engaging style of your videos. I am new to darkroom printing, possible to do some videos on darkrooms techniques? Topshit forever!!
I'm still in Paris due to heavy snow storm in Germany and Austria. I'll go tomorrow, but I'll take the route through Italy, Milano, Venice Ljubljana where there isn't any snow. So yes, next week!
I'd like to know more about Linhof technorama and xpan
yes, I'll compare different cameras for the same job and I'll compare Xpan, Technorama, Fuji GSW 6x9 and digital D850 with panoramic head. It's whole lot of work to do that, though...
would love to see your process
this place is beautiful. Where is it located?
Thanks, it's a walking distance from my home. It's river Temenica, last stretch between Prečna and Loke, near Novo mesto, Slovenia.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography thank you so much. First few days getting into Image editing and photography, feeling very lucky that I found this channel
I enjoyed this and learned from it. Your agitation method is unlike any I’ve seen, with the possible exception of one in a movie one time.... So, yeah, show us your development workflow. There are too many misconceptions about developing, I think, and too many sacred cows-too many misremembered or misunderstood Ansel Adams bromides.
Yeah it's really interesting, never used this developer but enjoyed the video. I tend to either use RO9 or homemade pyrocat hd
Is it really down to developer difference? It basically looks like the photo from diluted developer is moved during exposure. I doubt that you would shake it on the tripod using cord but still, this is how it looks.
I share your exact thoughts. I am planning to do the second part of the test and I'll repeat the test. I'm also suspecting that the scanner and scanning played a part in it.
Top shit! Keep it up! 👍🏻
I like your channel, so you got a new subscriber! :) I have a question...how did you cut the film in half in the dark to develop in two different developers? How did you know you weren't going to cut the image by accident?
Well that's easy. I had four shots, I knew I will destroy one, so I did cut it approximately. Two were good at the end.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography haha that's interesting :) great video anyway, hope to see more :)
I spent 15 to 20 years with a black and white darkroom. It has wonderful memories, but I wouldn't go back unless there is a gun to head. I used microphen with replenisher a lot
Do you know of developers that does not contain metol? I think i am allergic but cant seem to find one without to test...
search Google for phenidone-based developers
The other way is to use a developer that is already in liquid form and you just dilute it. It can not get airborne and if you wear glows and apron it can not get on you, so under condition that you aren't developing in a kitchen sink, you will be safe from Metol regardless if it is in the developer or not.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography I use gloves for both printing and dev, but still itches like hell. Have tried without glove on one hand to see if its the gloves but that was awful lol. It must be developer and probably metol. Almost seems to get worse each time i develope. 3-4 days of itchy hands. Will have to try one without :) thanks for the replay!
@@federicomuciaccia9191 cant find any commercial developers when googling. Seems like Ilford makes one but which one is it?
Ilford Microphen is phenidol based. No metol. Similar to ID11 / D76 but gives just a little bit more film speed (a 'push'). Perfectly good as your everyday developer, though. There are many others. Rodinal is liquid, last forever (longest shelf life of any liquid developer) and no metol. I use it a lot because I leave big gaps between developing films and when I come back to do some more film photography - Rodinal is the only developer than hasn't gone bad... Bit grainy compared to ID11 but again, can be used as your every day developer if you don't mind a bit of grain. Both should be easy to obtain anywhere you can get any developer.
Yes please make a video showing your technique to develop film. We need the Top Shit secret method.
That agitation is wild! 🤙🏽
Hey you making cocktails or developing film? Slowly slowly with the inversions :) - Would love to hear the answer and how dilution effects other developers as well such as Xtol. I develop film in the bathroom and avoid metol as I don't want to trigger a reaction other members of my family and get band!
Metol can cause allergic dermatological reactions, but I seriously doubt it would in such a small quantities and if well cleaned after. I heard about gentle inversion method preferred by some, I always done it with some extra strength. I guess it doesn't really matter, or at least in the last three decades as I am developing films, I haven't noticed any problem with it. Photography is like cooking, some prefer this to other.
Oh, stick with Xtol, it's a modern and better version of D-76.
Hi good suny year for you congratulations from ARGENTINA very good your esperience i use D 76 an ID 11 for 40 years pure or diluted 1 + 1
Gerardo Dalchiele Lueiro I do the same I love D76 for the versatility and ease of use.
Nice vid
Just discovered and subscribed right away ! :-)
I hope you enjoy(ed) Paris ;-)
gooooood job thankssss
Good stuff!
I have the same light meter, but with a silicone based sensor
Silicone based light-meter? Did you misspelled? It's selenium based light-meter.
Well, I have this version: www.sekonic.com/united-states/products/l-398a/overview.aspx
It says it has an amorphous photocell in it (=solar cell), which is: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amorphous_silicon. So, it is silicone based.
I had a selenium based light meter in the past, but that one showed that there is light even in total darkness. It wasn't accurate in low light.
Hey, it looks like you're using a dilution factor rather than a dilution ratio. At 9:30 you state 1 to 3 but add 600ml of water to 300ml of developer, which is a 1 to 2 ratio - a 1 to 3 ratio dilution of 300ml developer would yield a total of 4 parts, or 1200ml total. Is this something simple that a ton of photographers are potentially getting wrong? Am I getting it wrong? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dilution_ratio
No, you are right, but my editing was wrong. I did dilute it properly, but after I finish my editing I go back and shorten the vlog where I can. Obviously, as you correctly noticed, I haven't made the editing cut properly. If I wouldn't dilute it properly the development wouldn't be correct, which is not what happened.
Topshit Photography sweet! Thanks for clearing that up. Really love your videos!
Gave Rodinal a go last time I bought developer and I think I'll prefer that over D-76.
D-76 is the most famous developer because it's the most versatile, multipurpose developer and it can be successfully replenished. It was introduced in 1927 and ever since all film manufacturers were making films that develop well in D-76. Rodinal is more specialised developer and for dedicated method superior to D-76. Actually D-76 is not excelling neither in sharpness, or fine grain or push process, it's just great developer for all of the films on the market, it does everything, but specialised developers do work better for the niche they were intended. Stick to Rodinal for low ISO films is my suggestion.
If D76/ID11 is not the best developer, what is?
it depends from various factors: the film that ur using, if ur doing any pushing, the contrast that you want to achieve and for the most part personal taste.
I personally shot HP5 rated at 1600 and i develop it in Ilfotech HC with very nice results, better than the one I got from D76.
If I'm not careful, I may be tempted to grab an "Ansel Adams" rig and head out to Half Dome.
I know, it happens to the best of us!
Great comparative test.
Thanks for your work, you looks very tired at the end.
Thanks for the video. It was very informative. Have a great trip.