Thanks for your response to my comments. Just for grins I took the Ranger to a local Ford dealer here in Yuma and they wanted $1,000 to do the work. George, a mutual car guy and independent mechanic did the job and he did it in about 3 hours the same day I took it in. Cost me $423. I'm getting too old to do it myself. Hip, hip hooray for local independent mechanics that know what they are doing.
Cost is good to know. You always have to ask the question..........Is it worth my time to try it or do I throw a few dollars at the project. Thanks for sharing
This video is still really helpful! Just got a 1996 ford ranger for 900$ because she got some problems and the filler hose was one of them. Definitely will be using this video!
You did a very good job explaining the process. I would have liked to see/hear some comments about purchasing parts and their cost. Other than that 'Great Job'.
Thanks for leaving a comment. I probably should have mentioned cost if I didn't. This video is 8 years old (I can't believe it's been that long) and the price may not be relevant today. I will add in future.
you are the best just changed my fuel pump and it was a piece of cake thanks to you ,by the way DO NOT BE SCARE OR THINK IS GOING TO BE HARD IS EASY AS HELL THIS WAY ,just have some help when it comes to take off the bed ,also is a T55 star bit for the 6 screws of the bed , easy 2 thumbs up
I shopped around for this job and even went to the local (Yuma, AZ) Ford Dealer just for grins. Ford dealer part: $400 +/-. Ford dealer labor est.: $600 +/-. I had no intention of taking my truck to the dealer. I knew it would be very expensive. I had a local independent mechanic do the job for $423. I'm an old man and if I was 20 years younger I would have done it myself. the job is really mostly labor. Local guy, George did a good job. I took the truck in at 8:00 a.m. George had the job done and I picked up the truck the same day at 2:00 p.m. George gives all his customers free rides from the shop home and home to the shop. Thanks, George you'll get future business from me. Don't go to the local Ford Dealer.
Chris Cohick I'd like to know how it worked for you.I have a 93 4 cyl that I think may have this problem?If you would thank you.This video was so well layer out.Im really tempted to jump right in.
First video EVER that I hunted for that was exactly, well almost, what I was looking for. My main interest was, are there nuts on the bed bolts that I have to work from underneath. It doesn't appear that there are. All of what this guy says is true. The filler tube is $140 and the fuel filter/ pump assembly is $66 in my local auto store, NAPA. I'm going to do a work around with some flexible hose the auto guy recommended, buying it by the foot is cheaper than the one that fits on the truck. Good video, thanks.
Getting ready to do mine. Leak in the filler hose is setting off the emissions and computer is causing engine to run rough at idle. The mechanics want $500 to do what you have shown in this video. I'm 70 and wasn't looking forward to taking my truck to anyone, having worked on my own vehicles all my life. Figured I'd check TH-cam to see if there were any vids on how to remove that bed, having never done it before. Gotta say! Excellent video that will save me hundreds of dollars....now that I know just how easy it is. A lot better than dropping the tank from under the truck! Thanks...WELL DONE... :)
Been putting it off all summer because I had a camper and ladder rack on the Ranger making the removal of the bed a bit more complicated. Recently bought a Chevy S10, moved the camper and rack over to it, (perfect fit). Prior to that, it meant dropping the tank and that's why I put it off. Now that the bed is open I looked up your video to see what I was now dealing with. No big deal! Not worried at all about it now and may start on it this afternoon. I'll have a buddy come over to help lift it off. Again, thanks for the video and taking all the worries about this away. Nice to see what I am dealing with, before tackling the project. Mine is a 97 Ranger with the extended cab and 6 foot bed. All the easier to remove. ha,ha
I think I need to pull the bed to get to replace the one crossmember. Not the one that holds the tank, the one behind it. I can't seem to find that piece online tho, so I guess I have to make it
What is the purpose of the approx 2 inch by 4 inch (slightly) curved piece of shiny sheet metal on the side of the fuel tank filler neck piece. I just bought one of these and mine has it also. I'm guessing it's just some area that has some "rubbing potential" so the shiny metal place is there for protection.
I wondered that myself. I just assumed it was in an exposed area of the hose, maybe it sat near the bed.. You have me curious again. I will see if I can find out.
The sheet metal may be support for an area of the hose that sees some stress, or for potential rubbing against the frame (but if it was for rubbing against the frame, i'd think it would be turned approx 90 degrees to be at a better location. I just removed / replaced the original equipment fuel tank filler neck (Motorcraft) on my 1995 Ranger XLT. The Motorcraft filler neck had the sheet metal piece in the exact same location. Even though the Motorcraft filler neck had gone bad, it seems like a much better quality product than the Spectra Premium ($90) filler neck I just installed. The three screw holes in the new Spectra Premium filler neck were too small and had to be drilled out to accept the screws (junk). That ended up being the hardest part of the job. I took the bed off to replace the filler neck, but ended up replacing the fuel pump (which was easier than I thought), the 6 screws and spring clamps / nuts (rusted out, threads stripped) , and rear shocks. Shocks were easier with the bed off, but I wouldn't remove the bed just to do the shocks. Also discovered that the exhaust support that goes to the frame just behind the muffler had rusted out and broke off. Thanks for posting this presentation it was of immense help.
On acceleration my 5 speed stalls till I apply more gas.... so hope this helps. 2.3 1996..I'll start with this stuff first and work my way to the engine. ..excellent video!!!
I googled your problem and maybe this is something else you can try if fuel system is not it. IAC Valve and it may be easier to start with this. th-cam.com/video/QHp6AKsmcVE/w-d-xo.html
I really liked your video. very precise and easy to understand. I have a 1996 ford ranger 4WD STX with a 4.0L engine. I look forward to more videos about your truck.
Right On! Thanks for the help, very well done sir. Clear cut, to the point instructions spoken in layman terms pretty much that you have to be stuck on Stoopid not to understand how to do this job properly to complete the fix. It's never too late to give ya an atta boy for that, pal. ++Peace & Rock n' Roll 4 Your Soul My Friend++. 🤘😉🤘
Hi Joey, not sure how I missed your question. I am not 100% sure on the size of the beds. I think the 98 may have had a longer wheel base and that could impact the question. check out the wiki. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Ranger_(North_America)
Patrick PhippsPA I hope it works for you. One thing I thought about the other day was bedliner could be an issue. Didn't think of that since I didn't have one.
Thanks again! My factory liner came out with 4 screws and lifted right out. No issue at all. It sits on the lawn upside down. I ran out of daylight so I'll be on this first thing tomorrow. Thank you!
Thanks a lot for the video, we are about ready to do this on my father in laws 99 ford ranger. So, so , so much easier to do the fuel pump when removing the bed.
+Jackleg I'm sure it'll work great. We were shocked to find out that the entire hanger and pump cost about 230 dollars from O'reilly's. Or just the pump was $95.00 . So we opted to order a fuel pump on Amazon Prime. We are going to install the pump, new screen and new O ring onto the old Hanger assembly. Total cost including a new Fuel Filter is $40. USD Can't beat that. What do you think the bed weighed? About 200lbs?
+Tommy Armour Sorry Tommy, I totally didn't see your question. Maybe 200, did not seem very heavy if I remember right. I assume you have completed the job now. again, sorry I didn't see your question.
Yes job is finished. We did buy a entire hanger assembly, but a cheaper model online. Job went pretty well. Ended up Bending a pin under the relay, ran a toggle switch for that. That turned out more complicated than the fuel pump. Diagnosing the problem anyway.
Thanks for your response to my comments. Just for grins I took the Ranger to a local Ford dealer here in Yuma and they wanted $1,000 to do the work. George, a mutual car guy and independent mechanic did the job and he did it in about 3 hours the same day I took it in. Cost me $423. I'm getting too old to do it myself. Hip, hip hooray for local independent mechanics that know what they are doing.
Cost is good to know. You always have to ask the question..........Is it worth my time to try it or do I throw a few dollars at the project. Thanks for sharing
This video is still really helpful! Just got a 1996 ford ranger for 900$ because she got some problems and the filler hose was one of them. Definitely will be using this video!
Thanks for the comment and the 96 is a pretty solid truck. I see a lot of them out there.
You did a very good job explaining the process. I would have liked to see/hear some comments about purchasing parts and their cost. Other than that 'Great Job'.
Thanks for leaving a comment. I probably should have mentioned cost if I didn't. This video is 8 years old (I can't believe it's been that long) and the price may not be relevant today. I will add in future.
you are the best just changed my fuel pump and it was a piece of cake thanks to you ,by the way DO NOT BE SCARE OR THINK IS GOING TO BE HARD IS EASY AS HELL THIS WAY ,just have some help when it comes to take off the bed ,also is a T55 star bit for the 6 screws of the bed , easy 2 thumbs up
thanks, I am glad it help you out!
Thanks for putting together such a thorough & effective walk-thru vid!
I hope it helped out. thank you for the great comment!
I shopped around for this job and even went to the local (Yuma, AZ) Ford Dealer just for grins. Ford dealer part: $400 +/-. Ford dealer labor est.: $600 +/-. I had no intention of taking my truck to the dealer. I knew it would be very expensive. I had a local independent mechanic do the job for $423. I'm an old man and if I was 20 years younger I would have done it myself. the job is really mostly labor. Local guy, George did a good job. I took the truck in at 8:00 a.m. George had the job done and I picked up the truck the same day at 2:00 p.m. George gives all his customers free rides from the shop home and home to the shop. Thanks, George you'll get future business from me. Don't go to the local Ford Dealer.
Great video. I need to perform this operation on a '93, and you have given me confidence!
Chris Cohick
I'd like to know how it worked for you.I have a 93 4 cyl that I think may have this problem?If you would thank you.This video was so well layer out.Im really tempted to jump right in.
First video EVER that I hunted for that was exactly, well almost, what I was looking for. My main interest was, are there nuts on the bed bolts that I have to work from underneath. It doesn't appear that there are. All of what this guy says is true. The filler tube is $140 and the fuel filter/ pump assembly is $66 in my local auto store, NAPA. I'm going to do a work around with some flexible hose the auto guy recommended, buying it by the foot is cheaper than the one that fits on the truck. Good video, thanks.
Thanks for the comment.
Getting ready to do mine. Leak in the filler hose is setting off the emissions and computer is causing engine to run rough at idle. The mechanics want $500 to do what you have shown in this video. I'm 70 and wasn't looking forward to taking my truck to anyone, having worked on my own vehicles all my life. Figured I'd check TH-cam to see if there were any vids on how to remove that bed, having never done it before. Gotta say! Excellent video that will save me hundreds of dollars....now that I know just how easy it is. A lot better than dropping the tank from under the truck! Thanks...WELL DONE... :)
Steve White I hope it goes smooth! Thanks for the comment.
Been putting it off all summer because I had a camper and ladder rack on the Ranger making the removal of the bed a bit more complicated. Recently bought a Chevy S10, moved the camper and rack over to it, (perfect fit). Prior to that, it meant dropping the tank and that's why I put it off. Now that the bed is open I looked up your video to see what I was now dealing with. No big deal! Not worried at all about it now and may start on it this afternoon. I'll have a buddy come over to help lift it off. Again, thanks for the video and taking all the worries about this away. Nice to see what I am dealing with, before tackling the project. Mine is a 97 Ranger with the extended cab and 6 foot bed. All the easier to remove. ha,ha
@@stevewhite3315 So did you do it? Was it as easy as depicted in this rather clear video?
I think I need to pull the bed to get to replace the one crossmember. Not the one that holds the tank, the one behind it. I can't seem to find that piece online tho, so I guess I have to make it
Great video thanks. Glad I watched it before I tried dropping the tank from the bottom
Thanks for the comment
What is the purpose of the approx 2 inch by 4 inch (slightly) curved piece of shiny sheet metal on the side of the fuel tank filler neck piece. I just bought one of these and mine has it also. I'm guessing it's just some area that has some "rubbing potential" so the shiny metal place is there for protection.
I wondered that myself. I just assumed it was in an exposed area of the hose, maybe it sat near the bed.. You have me curious again. I will see if I can find out.
Great step-by-step video
Thanks for the comment.
Sounds easy. About to attempt, but you mentioned something about new gasket not fitting?
The gasket for the fuel pump didn't fit on the kit I purchased. I just used the old one. It's fine
The sheet metal may be support for an area of the hose that sees some stress, or for potential rubbing against the frame (but if it was for rubbing against the frame, i'd think it would be turned approx 90 degrees to be at a better location. I just removed / replaced the original equipment fuel tank filler neck (Motorcraft) on my 1995 Ranger XLT. The Motorcraft filler neck had the sheet metal piece in the exact same location. Even though the Motorcraft filler neck had gone bad, it seems like a much better quality product than the Spectra Premium ($90) filler neck I just installed. The three screw holes in the new Spectra Premium filler neck were too small and had to be drilled out to accept the screws (junk). That ended up being the hardest part of the job. I took the bed off to replace the filler neck, but ended up replacing the fuel pump (which was easier than I thought), the 6 screws and spring clamps / nuts (rusted out, threads stripped) , and rear shocks. Shocks were easier with the bed off, but I wouldn't remove the bed just to do the shocks. Also discovered that the exhaust support that goes to the frame just behind the muffler had rusted out and broke off. Thanks for posting this presentation it was of immense help.
On acceleration my 5 speed stalls till I apply more gas.... so hope this helps. 2.3 1996..I'll start with this stuff first and work my way to the engine. ..excellent video!!!
I googled your problem and maybe this is something else you can try if fuel system is not it. IAC Valve and it may be easier to start with this. th-cam.com/video/QHp6AKsmcVE/w-d-xo.html
What size hex drive is needed for the bolts on the bed of the truck?
Iranianjunkie hey, sorry just read this message. I think they were T-55.
T-55
This is exactly what I needed. Thanks for the easy way to do this work!
Thanks for the comment Anthony, it makes it all worth the time. Glad it helped.
Thanks for the tutorial, Ive got to replace my filler neck too. Hopefully i can do it solo
Kevin01SH thanks for the response I hope it helps.
Awesome Video Sir! I have to tackle my filler neck and was not sure how to go about it....Thanks
Kurt Heffner thanks for the comment Kurt. I hope it helps you.
Hey man THX A lot! I have to fix the filler hose. & I'm saving this video. You help out bro!
Excellent video , thank you. It helped me change my filler neck on my truck. Much appreciated!!!
George Tovar glad it helped. makes putting the videos out there worth it.
I really liked your video. very precise and easy to understand. I have a 1996 ford ranger 4WD STX with a 4.0L engine. I look forward to more videos about your truck.
thanks, I am happy it helped.
Right On! Thanks for the help, very well done sir. Clear cut, to the point instructions spoken in layman terms pretty much that you have to be stuck on Stoopid not to understand how to do this job properly to complete the fix. It's never too late to give ya an atta boy for that, pal. ++Peace & Rock n' Roll 4 Your Soul My Friend++. 🤘😉🤘
Thanks for the comment! It is greatly appreciated.
Do you know if a 94 ford ranger 4cy as the same bed as a 98 6cy?
Hi Joey, not sure how I missed your question. I am not 100% sure on the size of the beds. I think the 98 may have had a longer wheel base and that could impact the question. check out the wiki. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Ranger_(North_America)
thanks man!
A big help! Thank you so much!
Thanks for the comment! Glad it helped you.
Outstanding video! Exactly what I'm doing today. Thank you!
Patrick PhippsPA I hope it works for you. One thing I thought about the other day was bedliner could be an issue. Didn't think of that since I didn't have one.
Thanks again! My factory liner came out with 4 screws and lifted right out. No issue at all. It sits on the lawn upside down. I ran out of daylight so I'll be on this first thing tomorrow. Thank you!
Excellent job explaining brother, super professional. Thank you. Well, well, well done. A+ job. Thanks.
+Osvaldo Cintron Thank you for the comment! I am glad it helped.
Thanks a lot for the video, we are about ready to do this on my father in laws 99 ford ranger. So, so , so much easier to do the fuel pump when removing the bed.
+Tommy Armour I hope it helped!
+Jackleg I'm sure it'll work great. We were shocked to find out that the entire hanger and pump cost about 230 dollars from O'reilly's. Or just the pump was $95.00 . So we opted to order a fuel pump on Amazon Prime. We are going to install the pump, new screen and new O ring onto the old Hanger assembly. Total cost including a new Fuel Filter is $40. USD Can't beat that. What do you think the bed weighed? About 200lbs?
+Tommy Armour Sorry Tommy, I totally didn't see your question. Maybe 200, did not seem very heavy if I remember right. I assume you have completed the job now. again, sorry I didn't see your question.
Yes job is finished. We did buy a entire hanger assembly, but a cheaper model online. Job went pretty well. Ended up Bending a pin under the relay, ran a toggle switch for that. That turned out more complicated than the fuel pump. Diagnosing the problem anyway.
Diagnosing can certainly be the long item. I just went through a long diagnosis on another issue. well, glad you got it done.
Thanks so much
thanks you very helpful video,I'll do mine,thank you so much God bless you.
Great video .... really great!
thank you Rick! I hope it helps.
Very Good Video...Thank you!!
trying to remove the fuel tank on a 93. Impossible job contrary to the suck ass factory manual which makes it sound like a no brainer