LOOK 765 Gravel RS enters the Kreamery | SRAM DUB gets REAMED | MY NEW TATTOO
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- This is a review of the LOOK 765 Gravel RS bike. It passed on all accounts with flying colours.
The SRAM DUB crankset has its problems and these have not changed. They are not insurmountable but it does go to show how SRAM's efforts to avoid Shimano's patents have resulted in a suboptimal design. This is coupled with the variable manufacturing tolerances. SRAM's solution is to visit Timmy's tea room for some Grease.
The bottom bracket used in this video is Hambini BB386EVO to DUB
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Page about DBCA, Short Axles etc
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Hmmm, so SRAM recommends more grease to manage tolerances lol. Good discussion and well presented.
This would be considered front page news in any other engineering discipline, for the bike industry, it does not even register
They do that because stiction in the preload adjuster (which is a crappy plastic part) can prevent it from being threaded out far enough to take up the axial play.
Shockingly shit
Sooooo? Hambini's assistant hairdresser DEMANDS more grease to manage tolerances, you know what I mean, right?
Yep, I took the drive of shame to the bike shop for a stack of spacers for my Red crank. Jesus.
It's a surprisingly satisfying feeling to see Hambini wholeheartedly endorse a bike that you own! I bought this exact Look 765 Gravel RS partly due to Hambini's love for Look bikes, and I'm happy to see that this particular model is no exception. I have 12000 miles on the original BB with my frame, and I haven't heard a single creak out of it yet. Best gravel bike I've ever owned
That bike is a beautiful thing. I'm not a fan of press fit, mostly because I already have tools for threaded. But, this could be one to get me to change over, at least for 1 frame. Although, to be honest, I'm not sure what the difference is between this model and the 795 Optimum+
Cane Creek, Kogel and several other companies make higher quality preload adjustment nuts for Sram cranks. I bought a Kogel since it was the least expensive option at the time. It has worked well for me with none of the issues of the cheap plastic from the Sram version.
That comparison to the time though 🥵 Would love to see campy vs shimano vs sram engineering shootout.
turning up to a fight, Look turns up with a pistol and Time turns up with an F35
Add microshift to the mix.
@Hambini most other bicycle manufacturers would have a broken mouldy stick...
@@Hambini what's the Specialized weapon? Soft cock or my bet is beyond their abilities?
@@henkdevrjes9640 most manufacturers turn up with a can of whipped cream and a limp wrist
Got this bike since 2019 (Token BB for Shimano 24mm axle).
The frame is very tough. No problems with the BB and it spins like crazy. The frame is stiff and solid, stearing - surprisingly fast and agile for that head tube angle. Too stiff in my opinion for a real off-road gravel though. After switching wheelsets and even trying 650b fat wheels I finally decided to use this bike specifically for allroad purposes with GRC1400 wheels from DT and 34mm road tires. And it eats bad tarmac for breakfast))) It's not slower that my road bike on real-world roads, but ride comfort is uncomparable.
Now, there are some issues with this bike that you need to know before buying one.
1. Front brake caliper mounts. They suck. If you try to tighten the bolts to Shimano specs - you'll kill the fork. I did. The bolts will pull the aluminium inserts out of the carbon and damage the adapter plate and you'll never be able to adjust the brake caliper position anymore. Thankfully I got the replacement fork from LOOK and now barely tighten these brake caliper mount bolts to 4.5 Nm. And they STILL manage to slightly pull the inserts out slowly... So, it works for three years now, but can't predict what happens next.
2. Mavic's quick-release axles. They suck next level. These motherfuckers have a so-called double-lead threads (M12X2 P1) rated for 6.5-9 Nm of torque (sick!). I will not post theory here, google it. But the rear axle can't keep the tension even for one ride, even if you overtighten it to 11-12 Nm. For my specific frame it leads to annoying clicks under load, especially out of the saddle. Took a year to find the reason...
I managed to address that issue. There is a shop on aliexpress that sells rear derailleur hangers for bikes. They have LOOK 765 Gravel RS hanger, but in two versions. One have "standard" double-lead thread and the other one uses normal M12 P1 thread (MTB standart). Then you need a L167 M12x1.0 axle for this new hanger. This axles usually have a cone washer, I give you sizes without this washer and also be sure that it's removable or try to find axle without a cone washer - they exist. I also use a 19mm diameter brass washer (flat, 2mm thick). Now it keeps tension much better and can be tighten to 12Nm without any fear of damaging the dropout. Still not perfect because of this cut-out dropout for fast wheel change...
3. The native stem is... let's say strange. Weighs a ton, one-bolt and very narrow clamping that leaves deep marks on the steerer. And you can not put these plastic washers on top of this stem, so the only option is to cut the steerer and it still will never be in optimal position on your steerer tube (which should ideally go a little higher than stem clamp). Changed for Zipp SL Speed carbon stem and never looked back. And yes, you can use normal spacers and stems on this bike.
4. Change the factory steerer tube insert, it's not working properly.
5. Changing cable housings and brake hoses on this frame without removing the BB is PITA at the very least. I did (and really shouldn't). Personally I think this frame needs some type of "screw-together" BB (stock Token is fine) so it can be removed for cable management.
Hope this helps. The bike is on fire otherwise)))
P.S. I believe this Mavic's double-lead axle standard has a great potential for a proper reaming 👹
Good episode and very relevant to my recent experience. I installed a Hambini BB386 EVO (for DUB) on a Time Alp D'Huez about 6 months ago and it was nowhere near as easy as this install, and exactly for the reason cautioned by Hambini in this video. The rear hydraulic line wouldn't clear the BB. Time chain stays cantilever into the BB shell and there wasn't enough space to wrap the hydraulic line around the one-piece BB shell and into the left chain stay. My only solution was to take a Dremel to the cantilevered end of the chain stay on the pristine Time frameset.
Regarding DBCA discussion, after 100k+ miles riding on square taper and 2K+ on SRAM DUB, the slop seems good enough. Agree, not ideal, but as my mentor taught me starting out in Aeropace some 40 years ago, "better is the enemy of good enough".
I would love to see you review a Decathlon Van Rysel EDR Bike
my 16.5 year old Look 585 still sees the most action out of any of my bikes.
This plastic DUB spacer should click in into DUB BB. I think that for your BB you should replace it with common alu 29mm spacer.
MUC Off, Koegel and a boat load of other companies make nice aluminum preloaders - yes you get oil slick finish too 😅
I have a shortlist of dream roadbikes. A Look is on that list and because of your Look reviews I'm starting to think that the Look probably is the best shot quality wise.
All SRAM dub bottom brackets use 40x30 bearings. The 29mm ID is accommodated with the "top hat" bearing covers.
I LOVE that SRAM supposedly went with a 29mm axle to keep the bearings bigger, and then went to a small bearing on every single size, even if there aren't any space limitations.
The Dub BBs do last okay, but it helps if you carefully remove the dust shields (very easy to break), wipe, and apply a full layer of grease.
The preload collars aren't crap. Just don't unscrew the screw so much. Even if you didn't skip a thread, unscrewing any preload collar clamp more than necessary risks over preloading when tightening it back up. I've never seen a broken plastic collar, but I have seen cracked and seized aluminum collars.
I've seen several plastic collars with stripped threads or some other fault.
Very happy with my 795 Blade RS with Record 12. Coming up to 3 years and everything is rock solid. A lot of people have trouble with the headset but there is an upgraded expander bung which sorts it out.
can you share a link to where i buy this aftermarket expander please. I've worked out a technique for keeping the headset tight but I don't trust the expander plug
@@MP48 any Look dealer. I bought mine from Bellatisport. Andrea will sort you out.
excited for this one. did I make the right choice 2 years ago!
SRAM is an easy target for criticism, the explanation at the end of the video was well researched presented both sides of the rationale behind the engineering and legal reasons why SRAM designed such a product. Thank you.
It's amazing that they can machine the BB, consistently, to within .01 of a mm. I mean that's solid work right there and how it should be if you're spending thousands of dollars on a bike frame.
Why no, that's not amazing at all.
Machining is easy and repeatable while cutting into soft buttery resin.
Molding and curing a round hole that's expanding in an oven is difficult
That tolerance is not exceptional and common in the era of computer controlled milling.
@@janeblogs324I think 10ktube has a point doh. Why not mold around a metal/allu/titan/rvs starish shaped ring with a low tolarance inner circle (for bb) and a starshaped outer shape for loads of surface area to glue/ with the frame? and build the whole frame on the bb + the rear axle bracket ? Or am i missing something.
now i wonder what do these tolerances do under load lol. Prolly not remain .22m.m . And how much increase of frictrion will this yield. That perfect little bb fabricated hole will get raped hard under load so isnt this whole BB tolerance thing nit a whole load of bollucks?
@@blauwzakjecrack they put it in an oven to cure and the plug expands and contracts at different rates and sizes. Someone does use carbon molds as they expand in sync with the frames.
They also rush to demold the frames instead of waiting for a full 7 day cure
I’m running 2 different SRAM cranks and I was also skeptical of the plastic preload adjuster. But after several years, I’ve had zero issues. There are higher quality aftermarket version available, but no need…..yet.
Ditto. I had horrible experiences with the RaceFace version which pretty much uses a tiny wood screw and thin plastic. My DUB cranks were watched very closely and after a year it is still functioning perfectly as it's a bit thicker plastic (was eyeballing the Kogel and Cane Creek options).
So basically LOOK still makes really good bikes. I've owned many high end bikes. Now on a BH Ultralight and it's great but one of my favorite riding bikes was my LOOK Jalabert. It just felt great on the road. Not a fan of those adjustable rear drop outs. But they did remove them.
3 of my friends had problems with the 795 blade RS. All loose BB's. Look replaced them all in the end but it was a struggle to get them to replace it. I think it was more look's distributor than Look themselves.
I've had exactly this - proper fight to get them to understand what was the issue. In the end I had to get a mate who's a native french speaker to translate through to french as the UK disty couldn't get them to do anything. My experience here is that the disty was parroting what look told them and look were just hugely resistent to accepting there was an issue. Given it's a one-piece alu shell for the BB on the 795 blade RS it's quite shocking they're so far out.
That said, once sorted, utterly superb bike.
But isn't that more to do with the shop that has put the bike together? It seems like the frames where well enough just needed a new and better installed BB right
No - in my case, I built from a base frame with a hambini BB which essentially slid out. Hambinis BB was bang on the right measurements, look just machined a frame out of spec
I have the recommended Token BB and not had any problems but yes, I've heard quite a few reports of issues. As you say, very strange as it's a machined sleeve rather than carbon.
@@nstrug I ve got same problem but with Token. Any ideas how to fix it, bike has 50km and its noisiest BB I ever had.
All suggestions for the absolute krapp scale of engineering bs and dubious marketing claims gratefully received.
get your hands on some Festka stuff...would really love some review on that, since i have czech ancestry..
I like the "Bag of wank" term.
One of the fake SL7s from China.
DUB --> DUMB
David Arthur Stamp of Approval seems nice
I changed the preload ring on my GX cranks to an alloy ring from cane creek, feels so much nicer to work with
Did you need to pry off any of the original preload assembly? I have a Cane Creek adjuster sitting here, but I’m having trouble finding completely clear instructions on how to install the part.
@@SkarTisu I had to remove the plastic thread on the crank and install a new one that was included with the cane creek ring. Put some Loctite superglue between the ring and crank and wait for a few hours for it to completely harden.
There was a paper with assembly instructions included, and I found this video th-cam.com/video/DsrTrlArUgM/w-d-xo.html that walked through it pretty good
@@Wiroe That video was perfect. I hadn’t found instructions on how to get the original threaded ring off, so this was the missing piece. Thanks for the help!
I've just bought a look 695 light frame (2015),im glad I didn't buy the newer version.
That is some first class ink. I don't have any tat's, but something of that quality could convince me to get one. So, two questions: 1. Who's the artist (do they travel to Australia)? Does it impress the hairdresser?
The arsonist was called Sharpie!
@@Hambini as is the one doing macron`s wife`s eyeliner...
Since, I own the selfsame bike (in my profile pic), I was terrified and what Mr. H would come up with. My bike sports Shimano 105 Mechanical; 11 speed. I love the bike and frankly the running gear has remained smooth and silent for over 4500 miles. I have a Campy Zonda wheelset for road use, and she has been great on the road or on the trails.
I'm concerned for the hairdresser, the pen i5 sounds painful. Very good video as always, great start to 2023.
Is this the type of misogynistic frat boy clicks you're trying to cultivate here Hambini? Ugh.
13:47
Where you took the spacer off 11:54 it appears to have come from the other side of the BB,
which is not how it went back in on the dry fit 11:59.
I think it sits against part of the elevated surface that contacts the axle on the bearing.
The final assembly at 15:53 still has the spacer drive-side.
If the spacer is meant to be on the other side, the chainline has moved outwards (meaning the gearing will at least have to be adjusted).
It also would affect the effective adjustment range on the preload collar.
16:54 seems to suggest it is now possible to run it out past the threads?
Cane creek sells metal preload collars, but I don't know if it works for DUB.
They do sell them for dub. I bought one just because I thought it would be more robust (I don't care about weight). My mechanic, however, RAVES about it and now tries to get his other customers to buy them because he says it makes his life easier.
@@georgeforeman89 the plastic ones are fine as long as you are gentle with the screw.
@@lux-3001 for me it's not the screw, it's the threads. It was really difficult for me to thread that stupid thing on. I haven't done the cane creek one because my mechanic did that, but he said it was a lot easier.
The spacer is supposed to be on the drivetrain side because the purpose of the sram wide crankset along with a special wide front derailleur is to give about said 2,5mm of more clearance to gravel tire between them and the front derailleur
Spacer goes on the driveside as Hambini correctly reinstalled it.
Digs on Gerard Vroomen never get old!!😂
The dummy BB, a masterpiece of work.
SEEMS LIKE THE PRINCESS AVOIDED ANY SIGNIFICANT REAMING ON THIS VIDEO~! HAMBINI,HAMBINI, HAMBINI......FELT MORE LIKE A CORDIAL DINNER DATE THAN THE SHAGGING THE HAIRDRESSER ARRANGEMENT U GOT GOING ON. That being said u are the most informative likeable video makers with relevant candor dry humor and uber intelligent sir~! thx U in advance for the content always a good time Hambini~ keep em coming
Have to say I love my SRAM RIVAL AXS. Admittedly upgraded to a Red Crankset and chainring. Setting it up and running it is so intuitive compared to the shite Shimano E-tube app. Done 1500km on the groupset and have zero problems with it so far...
I can confirm that the 765 Gravel RS is made in Taiwan. When I received my frameset, the box still had a couple of the original importing labels. I can also confirm the finish of the frame was outstanding, BB was round and well within tolerance, disc brake mounts were faced, and the headset cups were clean. Inside the frame was mostly clean however the factory did leave some tape inside along with some bagging material in the chain stays. Chain stay junctions with the BB were a little scabby inside the chain stays. Absolutely no assembly issues including Hambini BB. Very compliant while still being stiff. 🤣 Surely the compliance has nothing to do with the 40mm tires?!
"An opt'um graal bike!". Scran roval is exceedingly heavy, probably one of strongest forged cwanks out there. 6k euros for a sram rival bike? No fanks. These are just random thoughts as i watch. What a terribly structured comment.
i wonder what it's like when you are pissed.
@@Hambini lol
Pissed? How about when a bit buzzed?
that black and gold frame is class. that may be my next bike
Great review and tattoo too! Bonus if you were to add and I at the end, could also work if you ever wanted to go to Italy! Holly macaroni that’s a really pasta joke eh 🎉
This guy is hilarious but not everybody seems to notice. I have 2023 695 frame with the new Shimano BB, so no such problem.
The video section between the video title and HELLLLOOOOOOOUUU is for us to like the video!
795 Blade RS wishing it had a bb65. Zed cranks were cool.
Regarding the spline and effective axle width between the arms, I've found that, regardless how many times you remove and install the arms, as long as you're greasing the spline area, the spindle width doesn't really change. For one, the arms bottom out. The end of the spindle stops against the arm under the bolt head. Secondly, the arm expansion from the force of the spindle spline must be all elastic. It's not like the days of square taper bottom brackets. With those nearly tangential surfaces attempting to transmit torque, coupled with a very shallow 2° taper, the arms were living a hard life. They would wallow open, especially if the tapers were greased.
The preload adjuster needs to be backed all the way out before tightening the drive side. The preload ring should not be tightened at all beforehand. Then bring the preload in as the final step and tighten the small screw. It appears there is a too large a gap between the non drive crank and the adjuster. This is likely due to incorrect spacers. Sram has a chart for all dub bbs and cranks and specifies the drive and non drive spacers required. It appears one on the non drive is needed. Having done countless dub crank installs, the sram chart is accurate and the preload adjuster should never be far from the crank, after is is set. And as a result it will not run out of thread.
10:20 love the shimano crank burn
Hambini, what do you think in General of GravelBikes? I also have one but i think it was one of my greatest Bike mispurchase. Too slow on the Tarmac and completely useless if the Gravel Path gets too rough...
You’re doing something wrong then….
There there are so many styles of gravel bike, and ways to set them up, it’s possible you bought the wrong style or need to make some changes. Sticking tyre inserts into the wheels and running lower pressure makes a massive difference to confidence off road (you’re not worried about bashing a rim). Choosing the right tyre is key (think more about confidence off road than out and out rolling speed), and then it’s a question of mindset. Ride a gravel bike like a road bike and you’re missing the point/fun entirely.
I wanted something faster than a mountain bike and wider tires than a typical road bike, so it fit the bill for me
I bought a bike and am not immediately proficient on it in it’s designed area of use. I’ve obviously made a bad purchase.
I steal KOMs from the MTB crowd while on my gravel bike all the time. I promise you your problem isn’t your bike.
Not sure where you're riding, but that has a lot to do with how one perceives a gravel bike, I think. My ride today was about 2 hours on 80% farm road (ranging from sun-baked hard pack, to rutted from tractors, to sand), 15% tarmac, and 5% chunder more appropriate for a XC bike. Many would say I could just get a XC bike here, but that would be way overbiked. And, on the US high plains we regularly see 20mph sustained winds and in shoulder seasons as high as 60mph gusts. So aero is important, even on those of us going slow. I feel like this is the type of place gravel bikes were invented for.
With the lastest 765 Optimum endurance bike they switched to a T47 BB. Good move, I'd say. Apart from that, it looks much the same as this gravel version, just narrower tyre clearance. Good move yet again.
765 optimum comes in PF30, BB386 and T47 depending which model (optimum, optimum+, optimum disc)
I have no idea why they made it that confusing.
Big fan of my Optimum + but the Token BB that came with it went and was replaced pretty rapidly.
@hambini, any idea why they switched to T47? I find it warrying...
@@christophericcio I think T47 fits larger bearings. and it's threaded. I could be wrong.
@@oftankoftan Yes but threaded is used when tolerences are not very strict as it give some play. Look has historically great tolerences so I am not seeing the value : It costs more to manufacture, it's heavier. I would much prefer that they stick to BB386 EVO. But maybe I am missing something..
When that frame was released i was quite shocked with the design, copying that ugly as fuck Vroomeh/3T Exploro style of dip in the drive side seatstays so i made a comment on Look's instagram page saying something about those molds seen over and over on so many frames. The response i got from them was that it was indeed a far east produced frame but under the strict specifications of Look's design & engineering team. So, I'm still sad it's not produced in Tunisia where they had built this amazing savoir-faire over many years which to my eyes is much more important than saving a couple hundred quids here and there on what still is a high end frame at a pricey selling point (although not BMC extreme, those basterds), but at least your video confirms it is still fairly up to the Look standard we know and love.
The DS spacer on DUB cranks is directional and usually sits on the bearing when you remove the crank. It kinda clicks in. I guess it has a bit of a labyrinth seal on it to protect the bearing a bit more.
It's possible this spacer is reused from BB30 bottom brackets/cranks or it's 30 mm just to add some additional clearance. Considering it's positioned radially by the BB it doesn't make it a problem that it's 1 mm oversized.
As for DUB, 30 mm and 24 mm, isn't 24 mm cumbersome in BB30&co frames? Does 30 mm fit in threaded BB (MTB) frames with a half decent bearing? DUB covers all the frames and standards currently on the market, wouldn't be surprised if that was a factor in all of it.
DUB exists to have one BB for all BB shells
I think I’ll make an audio clip of your opening and use it for my wake-up alarm. Maximum volume of course.
The original 3mm spacer that comes with a SRAM dub BB seats squarely in the grooves on the SRAM DS BB face.
for the krap meter 40 should be GCN journalism
Hey. I was really enthusiastic about the new 765 Endurance. What’s giving me pause: 1) my trusted LBS told me that out of 10 Look older generation 765 they sold, 3 ended up with cracked seat tubes (apparently they were torqued to spec). The 3 were under warranty but took over 6 months. 2) I read in a French review article that the new 765 endurance is now made on Taiwan. Anyone else got experience with the 765? Thanks guys
Interested as well by this bike, I find the geometry really nice and wanted a well made frame ... :S Does anyone know if the previous 765 was well made ' 765 OPTIMUM DISC PROTEAM WHITE GLOSSY ' ? Not a lot of info about these bikes on the internet.
The new one seems to have a BB T 47 85.5 SRAM DUB (Threaded bottom bracket)
I own the 765 Optimum+ which I bought nearly two years ago. It's the same frame as the Gravel RS (including geometry and big tyre clearance), except for having less holes in the frame. Mine has a PF30 though. The LBS told me the gravel model has a reinforced frame, but I doubt it would make a difference for my 47kg... I still ride this one off road.
Last summer and 10 000km later I noticed a crack at the top of the seat tube. Gutted... LOOK agreed to supply a new frame which came just under 3 months later. The shop told me it has been an ongoing issue that LOOK is aware of, but new frames (including my replacement) have issue corrected. I bloody hope so! I was 'lucky' though, as other customers were waiting around 6 months for theirs.
The bike is on the heavy side, but I love the tyre clearance and the versatility it brings. I had no idea this was such a high end frame when I bought it, it just happened to have a very suitable geometry for my long legs/short torso and it was in stock.
If LOOK have indeed corrected the problem, you might be ok buying a bike now.
@@nluisa thanks for the reply. That’s exactly my situation…long legs combined with short torso. Glad to hear that they corrected the issue. I like the fact that they provide lifetime warranty.
I have the first generation of 765 for three years now, and I was mostly riding it in the wet and cold weather as it's my "winter bike" and I didn't have any issues with it. Very good quality 👍
I've owned 765 Pro Team (2016) for three years. Bought as frame kit. Built it up with Campag Chorus, and DT Swiss pr1400 rims. I'm a 100 kgs, strong rider and put it through its paces. Never had a problem or concern. Lovely bike and would buy Look again without hesitation.
Best ally frame budget ,I’ve had Evans own brand road bike ace bit of kit now on wiggle 105 second hand both about 8kg retail £1000 ten years ago can’t find replacement frame of same quality under 700£
Blimey Charlie 100 k well done no shill racing
16:55
at this point, i just use another spacer to take up the slack
thank you sram~~~lot of spacer require
Watching this now- the 30mm ID on SRAM DUB spacers is irrelevant because the spacers actually snap into the outside of their DUB BBs and don’t actually contact the spindle at all.
Yes, normally the thin ring pops into a groove on the bearing cover on SRAM BB (which also transforms the bearing i.d. to 29 mm axle). And only then you have the spacer thickness which is written on and the designed chainline by SRAM. Used as shown in the video the spacer is thicker as written on.
SRAM uses 30mm bearings with .5mm thick spacers... you can use any DUB BB with 30mm spindle cranks by removing the spacers or use DUB cranks in 30mm BBs be repurposing said spacers. I believe Hope and Chris King even sell DUB conversion kits for their respective bottom brackets. Same as 24mm shimano in 25mm standard bearings. Seems like SRAM doesn't want to advertise this and wants it to look special. I've run 30mm 5DEV cranks in SRAM DUB BBs without the spacers and used them to put sram cranks on a bike with a generic 30mm PF92 BB.
damn dude, actually looking up the website adn callin out the bs! lets go!!!
Where did Dub come from? That's a good question. SRAM's hand was kind of forced, by mountain bike companies like Pivot that worked on the BB92 standard with Shimano. BB92 was intended for 24mm cranks...but then when Race Face carbon fiber Next SL cranks were all the rage, they abandoned that original intent and then shoved the 30mm cranks into the BB92 hole to try and make their bikes seem lighter...which wasn't big enough for proper bearings. These manufactures knew better, but didn't care, they shouldn't have speced 30mm cranks in the first place and they are the ones that developed the standard. So as BB92 gets more widespread, 28.99 becomes a way they can make cranks for both BB92 and regular BB30 standards with one spindle size...and still get decent sized bearings in there. There's a few "30mm in BB92" solutions out there, but none are optimal or cost-effective. The crap part is that we are forced to this odd bearing size, instead of 30mm, which is readily available from multiple industrial bearing suppliers. The mountain bike companies that keep specing BB92 is really the issue. BB92 should have been bigger if they wanted to use these 30mm cranks...or just spec 24mm. But nope, we can't have nice things.
What a beauty! I wonder if you'll get a goodie bag 🤗
I do find it amazing how many people not only continue to buy sram's garbage but think they're buying high end componentry as their prices and markup are so incredibly high for the quality received
Love the videos and I’m all for watching the odd advert to support the channel, but just lately they’re getting a bit much 👀
Mr whitworth, we applaud you
Another patient cured by Dr. Hambini 🤸♀️
I bought a Look 795 Blade RS in 2020. The first frame's seat tube was too big and the seatpost wobbled like crazy. 6 months later look finally replaced it. The replacement frame had a 20mm crack in the seat tube appear after one ride, eventually look offered to replace that frame but wouldn't provide a like for like replacement, in the end the bike shop (who were brilliant btw) gave me a refund. Look's customer service was shocking, and looking at some of the comments here they have a major QC problem on that frameset.
The latest frame from TIME ADHX with mic of carbo and Dyneema® strands for wide tires up to 35mm is the top of gravel frames.
TIME has also prepared a new color scheme for 2023! Just wait and see.
I wil never install SRAM products on my bikes, since my first Sram Rival mechanical which is a disaster and clanky system. Whatever they offer, there always a problem.
ive been waiting for this
perhaps u should make an aftermarket sram preload adjuster that isnt crap. im sure a lot of people will buy it.
if you released this video litt earlyer today, i wouldnt broke my preload adjuster on my easton cranks just like you have said😁 so for now adjuster is reenforced with ziptie)))
17:15 there are already really good aftermarket alternatives from Muc Off and Cane Creek which are machined out of aluminium... fitted all my bikes with the Cane Creek Preloaders, they are much better the the Sram plastic ones !
From what I heard, Look moved production from Tunisia to some Asian country, maybe Taiwan.
It was a bummer for me when I discovered it, after buying my 795 Blade RS :/
Garlic blood for the win!
@Hambini on my phone at least I can zoom in on videos now so if you want to add time to allow the audience to zoom in on any key features that can work as well
What do you think of the Mavic Speed Release system used here? I.e. 1.5mm pitch dual-lead threads. How does a dual lead thread affect clamping loads? The torque limiter on the axle seems to set be very low.
I ride a look 765 rd and most people on treks, specialized ask if my bike is from Amazon because they never heard of it 🤯🤯 I reply yes and keep on moving lol
What’s your opinion on wavy washers? Easy and foolproof solution but it could result in bearing/axle wear due to the cranks moving side to side?
23:52 The pen was indeed working...
"I'm from Marseille and bleed garlic blood."
Hi Mr. Hambini, random ass question that doens't have anything to do with this video: have you ever made a BB86 into 30mm by using straight 4130 bearings? Plus, maybe experience regarding durability and functionality? Didn't find a video from you. Obv, I would use weaker bearings + am directly relying to my 2018 Canyon Ultimates BB-fit-quality. Not sure how I should feel about it if I have to do that..😅
As someone who has historically spent ridiculous money on bikes... I'm getting increasingly convinced carbon fiber is not worth the money and frankly creates more problems than its supposedly fixing. Even Cervelo once made an excellent alloy frame, but they stopped selling it because they could not figure out how to charge >$5000 for it. Funny how actual professional road racers really don't care about weight.
Flame on, but I hypothesize that there are more important places to spend money on a bike build than the frame.
Same sentiments. I ride an aluminum Giant TCX from 2014, and it's done me very well, despite the BB shell being a little small when measured on the vernier caliper (though not enough to cause BB install/removal problems or other headaches). Any bike I replace it with will most likely be steel, or titanium at a stretch.
The more I see carbon frames with issues, the more turned off I am with them - and I don't really entertain thoughts of riding carbon any more unless the frame's made by Time. Their ADHX looks pretty damn sweet.
It’s a shame that SRAM has changed to 29mm axles with AXS. One more reason not buy…For sure they want to sell their own Truvativ bearings and make margins on it. I have the old SRAM red BB30 axle which allows me to use NTN bearings. I agree … the preload adjuster is a cheap plastic part which slips on the threads if you close it too much…same technology on my old SRAM red. But did I miss something? How did you use an NTN bearing in your bottom bracket if NTN has a 30 mm diameter?
could you review Titanium bike frame as well? Would like to see how it stacks up.
There was one ages ago
@@neilbuckley5796 yeah, we need a new review in 2023.
There is a Aussie titanium bike frame, Bossi STRADA SS, that is modelled with a “modern” look instead of the classic look. Not 3D printed iirc. Would be interesting but someone needs to donate one I imagine
100K!! 💯
I just bought a litespeed ti frame with a head tube ovalised by 0.25mm. They said it was "within tolerance".
Hambini time!!!
Some of your questions I can clarify for you:
-The cable routing comes from MTB --> Right hand side is for rear brake.
-DUB crankshaft has an oversized diameter to be able to use aluminium as crankshaft material. Shimano crankshafts are made of steel and therefore a lot heavier (again MTB technology ;-))
- Also the tapered steering tube with its integrated headset ('intended radial play') is standard with MTBs since many years...
Welcome to the off-road world, Hambini!
What happened to the “shite and sarcasm show?” that always set me in the right mood in the beginning of your deep dives.
TH-cam's starting to cracking on foul language lately, so I think Hambini is being careful.
Yes as above, TH-cam have started to crack down on the channel. I think they were topped off by absolute crap
I believe Look's frames are made in a factory they own in Tunisia.
canecreek does sell alloy preload adjusters for sram dub axles
Are the NTN 6806 LLU bearings also suitable for mountain bike applications?
The brand generally pushed on us is Enduro.
I tried Sram Dub crankset but went back to Shimano HT2. I think there is a potential weakness with Sram Dub crankset in whih the spindle is attached to non-drive-side crank arm. Perhaps it would have been better if the spindle is permanently attached to drive-side crank arm. Another unfortunate thing was I only get to know that in where I live, a Dub BB cost twice the price of BBR60 Ultegra/105 BB.
I've been cynical about SRAM (and all the big brands) in regard to "standards" and propitiatory systems but I think DUB was in some part at least a genuine attempt to make a large diameter spindle crank system that could fit (almost) any bike regardless of BB type/width. Trouble with doing things like that is you make too many compromises.
FSA's BB386EVO spindle standard is about as universal as it gets, features a 30mm spindle and it fits almost any bottom bracket. I run a SRAM Force 386EVO crank (manufactured pre-DUB) in a steel BSA shell. DUB 29.97 is just their rework of 386EVO to make something they own.
"Precision French Engineering" 🤣🤣Sorry. Couldn't help myself.
Roadies sure love all their weird proprietary parts. When aero is the only upgrade that exists i guess 😅
Please also ream X-Driver. I assume you are also of the opinion that having splines AND threads on ONE piece is a bad design.
I personally would spend less money in a powermeter and more in frame protecion. A gravel carbon frame like this would look like shit in less than a year
remember ZED2 crank.
Speaking of market segregation it just realized that Shimano created two the version of the BCD 96mm:
- FC M4000 BCD96 mm with symmetrical crank branches ( 90° between chainring holes )
- FC M8000 BCD96mm with asymmetrical crank branches ( 120° and 60° between chainring holes )
I bought a Renthal 1XR chainring BCD 96mm, which of course, doesn't fit the FC M4000, so now bought an FC M8000.
My question to you would be:
Do you think there is a real interest in doing two different crank branches' positions as they did? How crank branches' position affect the bike mechanically speaking?
From a Marseille's Hambini fan.
BTW, at 5:13 - is the frame chipped?
Sram Rival axs groupo weights about 3.2 kg. I bet that bike is a tank, no matter how light the frame it
garlic blood
The 765 isn't made in Tunisia. Its made in Taiwan. I ordered a frame and it said so on the packaging.
This is the RS version, not the "regular"one
I have a 2020 model 765 Gravel RS. It was definitely originally shipped from Taiwan to France
Not sure on the rs version, there is some blurb about rsb being made in France
@@dimitrifayolle896 Yeah my RS was made in Taiwain. I have pictures of the package labels. Believe it. I was disappointed because I assumed I bought something made near the EU.
Hello! Do you know the exact dimensions of the upper and lower headset bearings (outer diameter of the bearings)? Thank you.
Kreamery,love it 😎