At minute 2:00 I see that your intake manifold is already cracked. You should swap it soon. Best of both. And at minute 6:44 you can prevent the quick up and down movements by squeezing the tube at the top of the bar a little. The air can still pass through, but is slowed down somewhat.
I am really impressed your mechanical on the V-Star 1100 I have a V-Star 1100 2003 it needs a lot of work I am going to sink the carburetors now I'm going to assemble a calibrating to like you did. I know you step-by-step instructions that you lay it out for me. I'm hoping to see all your videos. Thanks a lot.
@@lukejosselyn7706 you replied back didn’t you. Maybe you learned something today, or maybe someone else who is looking for information through the TH-cam video archives in the future can learn something, don’t you think?
@@robertatkins272 I replied to a comment that was 12mins old not one over a year old. I learned it was the same thing a year ago as anyone else would if they did some research.
Mike will it work if I have the AIS system still on the bike and have a hypercharger installed as well? Is there just one screw that I turn left and right or am I going to be looking for two small screws?
After watching the video again I realize that there’s only one screw but if you could still answer for me if it will work if I still have the AIS system installed and a hypercharger on the bike please
Ok first things first that video was a helpful tool ok I noticed that I'm missing a vacuum line right there bye were u hooked up the tool but the nipple is bigger were it go do I need it and all that is that why my bike idles high when it's warm thanks againmike
Consider revving and keep it revved to your cruising RPM and adjusting at that point. 98% of your riding is at this RPM and not idle so that's really where you want the carbs/TB's sync'd. Thanks for posting esp. your DIY device.
yeah.... rev your engine with this thing attached to your vacuum ports, it will suck the fluid into your pistons and hydrolock slam the pistons and fluid into your heads rev it good, maybe you can blow both heads off your engine! Jesus! Just spent the $20 and get a pair of vacuum gauges from amazon - a used replacement engine for your bike will cost you over a grand
Spot on ! I adjusted mine at 100-120kmh and there is no more buzzing but at idle the synch is way off. If I go the other way, and synch at idle it buzzes at highway speed
My xvs650 used to buzz very badly at 100-120kms. I adjusted the valves clearance, made little difference. Connected the two vacuum gauges and stuck them on The tank and went riding. Kept adjusting the synch screws until the buzzing stopped at 100kms and noted the vac was synced at that speed but when back to idle it was way off. If I set the sync at idle it would buzz at highway speed
Any way u can tell me where that vac line that comes down from between both carbs connects to? Mine is disconnected and I can't figure out where it goes.
Connects to a little spot behind your air filter, it's an overflow tube so it just mounts to a little hole on the frame directly behind your air filter box. You can see it from the opposite side as the air filter housing, pull the hose down straight and look behind that housing, you should see the mount.
This was very informative, but it took me a bit to see the adjustment screw. I t would have helped had you pointed to it with a tool so it would easily be seen. Beyond that, great job. Thanks,
MIKE'S GARAGE thanks, currently putting my bike together, bought it all torn apart and I started to remove the AIS, I just like to see what everyone else has done
At around 2:02, you were trying to point out the adjustment screw, but there are 2 or 3 other screws in the frame. Which one is it? Is it the black phillips head in the center of the frame?
Roland Keith correct. Think about it like a flaky biscuit. You can peel away layers but their is more underneath. It’s just the coating that’s cracking
I just ordered carb boots. My looks the same way. But I believe I should replace them before syncing. Just In case. No sense in doing it twice! Nice manometer!
This does not work for a 2004 VStar. My front cylinder had a vacuum tube that went somewhere instead of a plain end cap nipple like yours. All it succeeded in doing was suck all the 2 cycle oil into the front cylinder, start smoking, and foul my plug. I got better results using my ear to sync the carbs. I'm going to have to use actual gauges instead of this oil method. I followed you instructions exactly and no matter how little oil I had in the tube, it would still get sucked in. To say the least, I am disappointed in the results and feel like this instructional is one of those troll "charge your phone in the microwave" videos.
you clearly did it wrong. Unplug the line that was on the front cylinder hahaha you created a vaccum with just one cylinder and sucked fluid into! omg haha
Mate I'm definitely not mechanically minded but followed step by step and I nailed it.. thanks heaps..
Kelvin Lewis glad I could help
At minute 2:00 I see that your intake manifold is already cracked. You should swap it soon. Best of both. And at minute 6:44 you can prevent the quick up and down movements by squeezing the tube at the top of the bar a little. The air can still pass through, but is slowed down somewhat.
i was thinking that might be causing his readings to jump around.
That is fantastic Mike
I've been thinking of buying a tool for this job
You just keep making these videos, and I will keep learning
Respect
Very interesting. I've learned something about my 650.
Thanks for watching
I am really impressed your mechanical on the V-Star 1100 I have a V-Star 1100 2003 it needs a lot of work I am going to sink the carburetors now I'm going to assemble a calibrating to like you did. I know you step-by-step instructions that you lay it out for me. I'm hoping to see all your videos. Thanks a lot.
Guy Monticello this video is for a 650 not an 1100.
@@lukejosselyn7706 works the same
@@robertatkins272 what did you hope to achieve by replying to a comment that is over a year old 🤦🏻♂️
@@lukejosselyn7706 you replied back didn’t you. Maybe you learned something today, or maybe someone else who is looking for information through the TH-cam video archives in the future can learn something, don’t you think?
@@robertatkins272 I replied to a comment that was 12mins old not one over a year old. I learned it was the same thing a year ago as anyone else would if they did some research.
What if when you turn the bike on to use the diy sync tool, fluid shoots up 1 side and you have to shut the bike off before fluid goes into it?
If you use the 2stroke it will just burn it. But if both sides of the tube are connected it won’t do that
I tried this on my 2005 VTX 1800c and it worked great. Thank you.
Mike will it work if I have the AIS system still on the bike and have a hypercharger installed as well? Is there just one screw that I turn left and right or am I going to be looking for two small screws?
Single screw, ais does not matter, and hypercharger does not matter
After watching the video again I realize that there’s only one screw but if you could still answer for me if it will work if I still have the AIS system installed and a hypercharger on the bike please
Christopher O'Connor yes it will
Should the choke be off by the time you test it?
Yes it should be warm
Ok first things first that video was a helpful tool ok I noticed that I'm missing a vacuum line right there bye were u hooked up the tool but the nipple is bigger were it go do I need it and all that is that why my bike idles high when it's warm thanks againmike
Consider revving and keep it revved to your cruising RPM and adjusting at that point. 98% of your riding is at this RPM and not idle so that's really where you want the carbs/TB's sync'd. Thanks for posting esp. your DIY device.
yeah.... rev your engine with this thing attached to your vacuum ports, it will suck the fluid into your pistons
and hydrolock slam the pistons and fluid into your heads
rev it good, maybe you can blow both heads off your engine!
Jesus! Just spent the $20 and get a pair of vacuum gauges from amazon - a used replacement engine for your bike will cost you over a grand
Spot on ! I adjusted mine at 100-120kmh and there is no more buzzing but at idle the synch is way off. If I go the other way, and synch at idle it buzzes at highway speed
@@phantomrose1999 Mine was the same way but eventually the computer seemed to smooth the idle out.
My xvs650 used to buzz very badly at 100-120kms. I adjusted the valves clearance, made little difference. Connected the two vacuum gauges and stuck them on The tank and went riding. Kept adjusting the synch screws until the buzzing stopped at 100kms and noted the vac was synced at that speed but when back to idle it was way off. If I set the sync at idle it would buzz at highway speed
Te recomiendo usar aceite para transmisión automática ya que es mas denso y preciso o el aceite para moto 2tiempos también sirve
Will it work with Ais ? I have a tube in one of the ports
Will it work on Yamaha outboard F50 motor?
×4 carburetors
Any way u can tell me where that vac line that comes down from between both carbs connects to? Mine is disconnected and I can't figure out where it goes.
Connects to a little spot behind your air filter, it's an overflow tube so it just mounts to a little hole on the frame directly behind your air filter box. You can see it from the opposite side as the air filter housing, pull the hose down straight and look behind that housing, you should see the mount.
This was very informative, but it took me a bit to see the adjustment screw. I t would have helped had you pointed to it with a tool so it would easily be seen. Beyond that, great job.
Thanks,
Does It Work on the 1100 Vstar?
@@josdedam yes
Nice design, bu I would add cheap plastic or metal restricor valves inline on both tubes to get rid of the fluid jumping around
Did not see the video previous..but I believe the carbs on my vstar are not in sync..got it out of the shop 2cweeks ago..still popping at 50mph..
Nice bike! Like the paint and seat. 👍
Thanks for watching. I have build videos on my channel.
Awesome man thank you
Hey mike, not sure if you have done a video on it or not but maybe you want to. Demonstrate and show everyone how you removed the AIS
blissman20 it was a bitch to remove but I got the directions from 650ccnd.com
MIKE'S GARAGE thanks, currently putting my bike together, bought it all torn apart and I started to remove the AIS, I just like to see what everyone else has done
Hello Mike, what year is your xvs650?
Roland Fehlinger 2005
At around 2:02, you were trying to point out the adjustment screw, but there are 2 or 3 other screws in the frame. Which one is it? Is it the black phillips head in the center of the frame?
Minh Pham it’s a black screw in the middle of the two carbs
@@MIKESGARAGE813 Thanks.
But that’s just the idle screw ?
The carb adjusting pilot screws are on the opposite side ??
Great video, thanks for the help!
Just bought a vstar 650 last night... Sweet tool man. Gonna make one and check mine out. Thanks. Sub'd
Nice video!
Excellent!!!
seller559 thanks please subscribe
Good Video on the sync tool and how to use it as well.
Man it looks like you might be in need of new intake manifolds soon though.
Roland Keith are you talking about the rubber cracking? They tend to do that but there is no function issue.
yes I was talking about the rubber. So it just looks worse than what it is.
Roland Keith correct. Think about it like a flaky biscuit. You can peel away layers but their is more underneath. It’s just the coating that’s cracking
Okay I got ya.....Cool and thanks for the info👌
I just ordered carb boots. My looks the same way. But I believe I should replace them before syncing. Just In case. No sense in doing it twice! Nice manometer!
Thanks
This does not work for a 2004 VStar. My front cylinder had a vacuum tube that went somewhere instead of a plain end cap nipple like yours. All it succeeded in doing was suck all the 2 cycle oil into the front cylinder, start smoking, and foul my plug. I got better results using my ear to sync the carbs. I'm going to have to use actual gauges instead of this oil method.
I followed you instructions exactly and no matter how little oil I had in the tube, it would still get sucked in.
To say the least, I am disappointed in the results and feel like this instructional is one of those troll "charge your phone in the microwave" videos.
Then you did it wrong. Both cylinders have the vacuum line. You probably place it on the wrong outlet. Do you have a pic of what you did?
you clearly did it wrong. Unplug the line that was on the front cylinder hahaha you created a vaccum with just one cylinder and sucked fluid into! omg haha
Caleb Lambert no need to laugh at people's mistakes, have a heart & help people instead of having a laugh + criticising 🤷🏻♂️