In this video we are talking about the different leather glues available on the market today with a specific focus on more modern, water based glues and how they compare to solvent based glues. There is both a demonstration of using the glue as well as discussion about the different products and applicators available.
Hey mate was wondering if you can give me some insight... how you stock your materials? I mean how you know how much leather you should buy and etc? Do you buy leather in advance or something else?
Ian. Want to thank you for the inspiration your work gave me and thank you for the hours of videos you have that helped me, immensely, in my own leather crafting. I really appreciate everything you've put in to your channel and your work. Thank you.
You have an innate way of knowing what questions that come up while in the middle of making a project I have needed answered, while learning Leathercrafting. I have ran up against problems right in the middle of a project, and got so frustrated I had to walk away from it. Then I would look and look on TH-cam, just trying to find out what I needed to do. I am so glad I found your Channel! You have answered so many questions I have needed answered while in the middle of a project, and giving tips and answers on some things that could be a problem BEFORE I get to them, that I hadn't even thought about beforehand! Brilliant! Thank you so much for the information you give on your tutorials, on your Great Channel!
Cheers Ian. Just to let you know, everything I have learned about leathercraft, I have learned from you. Thanks a lot mate. Much appreciated. Hope you are feeling better.
Was not aware of the shelf life of the water based glues. I just started in leather work and bought this as I was concerned about the compounds in the solvent based glues. As it turns out, I bought my supplies in the fall of 2019 and did not actually start any projects until March. Good to know my glue may be nearing the end of its useful life. Thanks Ian! Love your work and the education you provide. Very much appreciated my friend!
Thanks for another very good informative video Ian. I've only recently taken up leathercraft as a hobby and have made mostly archery related items so far, armguards and quivers. I've used 3.5mm veg tan for the two quivers so far and need to glue them prior to stitching. I struggled to understand which glue to use and then found availability difficult, especially during this lockdown. I ended up buying a tube of own brand contact adhesive from Wilkinson's and it did the job admirably and at just £2 for a decent size tube. It probably doesn't have all the qualities of more expensive glues but I must say worked for me. Thanks again.
I used original Barge since 1978 up until this year. February 1 2023. I am using Barge TF. We will see if there is a marked difference. I'm also trying E6000 and shoe goo. Actually gluing is a temporary holding method and is not a stand alone binder. Cobblers like myself use glue to build the item before sewing. The benefit of a strong for cable glue helps hold the leather longer and give support to the sewn welt or top leather. When the glue begins to lose its support, then the thread will hold it. The shoes or boots begin to lose some of its form and that's when it might be a good idea to replace a heal or give it a half sole etc. You want a glue that's not permanent. You want to be able to rebuild the product when needed. There maybe times you want to just t how it away after you get your use out of it. That's a personal preference but it's not industry standard practice in my experience.
I have a good friend who use to fix shoes in a small room for a shoe business. He got sick and luckily left the industry. It amazes me that they could do that in America.
Rocky Mountain Leather recommended the Aquilim 315. It is fantastic for thin leather projects. I use Master Contact Cement for thicker leather (used by shoe repair shops. Bedo's specically) and there is one other glue. May be Seiwa. From Rocky Mountain. Water based. Single side application. Apply wet, clamp. These are my three mainstays for adhesive/glue. The Aquilim is the most amazing stuff. Bonds in seconds after dry and almost as good as solvent based glue/cement. I will never use Barge ever again. Their newest formula constantly needs thinning in a metal container. I think they changed their formula. Master's is best as a solvent cement.
I tend to use Evo-Stik Impact adhesive for thinker leathers and I also have Aleenes Leather and Suede Glue (Water based) glue for lighter leathers and wallets. I found that some of the water based adhesives can leave a flakey residue which can be a pain, no such issues with solvent based ones. I guess they will get better over time though. Great video thank you Ian, very informative..
I want that rougher and artists spatula 😍 thanks for the info on glues. I have always used barge but hated how bad it is chemically. I think I’m gonna give the water based a try 👍
Funnily enough, in the south american country I am, I didn't even knew about water based glues (and they're super hard to come by, as I researched just now) but I can get a tin of contact cement by crossing the street and walking 60 meters from home.
Another Very Informative Video. Thank you very much for posting this, Ian. I would like to also mention spray adhesives. 3M makes some excellent products. I especially like using the 3M Super 77, especially when I am needing to cover a large area. One thing about the water based glues, is that when they get wet, the glue tends to reactivate and the pieces can come apart very easily. I have not had that happen with solvent based glues. I am in Canada, so it's still easy to get the solvent based glues. I used both types of glues and for quick jobs I use the water based and for heavy use or outdoor use, I tend to use the solvent based glues, just for a bit extra security. I did not know about the silicone spatulas from the art supply store. Great tip !! I will have to buy one of those and I will certainly cut that handle down, it seems a bit long. Thanks again for another great post. Take care and stay safe.
spray adhesive is something else I had in the video and cut for time, it has its place but mainly for sticking linings or large areas as it's not easy to control so I don't use it that often. The handle does want cutting down on the silicone brush yes, they're designed for artists but it will cut and sand easily enough.
Hello Ian. Thanks for your response. Yes, I had a suspicion that you had thought about spray adhesive. You are correct, I mainly use it for large pieces like linings and what not and it can be messy to use. Thanks again. Take Care.
I use the water-based glue seiwa from Japan and I will tell you it works very well but I'm not sure about the shelf life this video is the first I've heard of any shelf life with glue
Interesting! I’ve never seen the modern water based leather glues used this way, waiting for it to feel dry before combining the layers. The instructions for the glues I’ve seen, including Kyoshin, is to stick the pieces together immediately and then wait for the glue to dry. Like most regular glues really. Having said that, I’ve never seen the exact types you use so I have no reason to doubt your information. Just new to me. Where I live you can only buy old fashioned solvent based contact cement which is odd to me since it isn’t manufactured here and is probably more difficult to import than water based adhesives.
@@Leodis.Leather The glue I was thinking of that differs is the Seiwa which I have now purchased and tested. The label, which I google translated, says that you can apply the glue and then bond and rearrange the pieces freely for twenty minutes before the glue sets. Very useful for some projects although I found it to be more like ten minutes before the parts grab each other. Seems very strong the next day. Your video led me to the 1816B which I now also use as per your demonstration. I’m very happy with the results so thanks for that!
Thank you for the informative video. I'm in the US and use Tanner's Bond and EcoWeld and both work great. I didn't know the EcoWeld was a rebranded version of the other glue but it's no surprise, really. I'll have to try the silicone brush technique.
Thanks for the video. For me, it seems the water-based glue wins hands down over the solvent glues. I can remember when I was into leatherwork back in the 1970s - the era when the fashion was for hippy style handmade items - I would find after completing a batch session of solvent gluing the result would be ending up as high as a kite, along with a strong headache.
I don't think it wins 'hands down' necessarily because I'm still not convinced it's quite as strong (but it certainly strong enough) and the shelf life of it is frustrating. However, I think the health aspects score more highly that those points so it certainly wins out in terms of that which is the most important thing. Buying one pot of glue per year is a small price to pay for better health!
I know I'm a bit late to the party, and I'm more of a hobbyist than anything, but I've been using a DAP product called weldwood contact cement. It works quite well on leather, although I'm not sure about its availability in the UK.
Great seeing you Ian . As always full of great info thanks for the trouble of researching all this . As for me a Barge guy through & through in a well ventilated garage with an exhaust fan that keeps the air clear . Happy trails from the lock down in California .
I've had good results with aquilim on veg tan leather but not so great with waxy chrome tan. So I stuck with barge for that. Trying out saregum 130 now. So far so good.
Greetings Ian. Many different considerations when it comes to leather adhesives. Strength is of course #1 on anyone's list. But for me the #2, which wasn't mentioned, is 'aroma.' When a project has concluded, and the client handles their item for the first time, mine always put it to their nose. Is it preferable that a well crafted item reek like a glue factory? My answer is: definitely no. Any self respecting artisan would prefer that it smell like fresh leather. Seiwa remains my first choice. It bonds quickly, dries clear, cleans up easily and is completely fragrance free. Thanks for the content.
I use a Solvent based glue, and just like the Customer, I enjoy smelling the work as I go through the construction :oD I also have not noticed any residual smell left from the Solvent Based glue once it has gone past it's curing time...
Thanks Ian, a lot of helpful information. I haven't used any of the water based glues, but like you I have stocked up with solvent based because they have run out a couple of times at our local Tandy store.
Thanks for that informative video, I wonder and need what product is available in UK to repair a very superficial scratch on a veg tan leather which is already with the finishes. Thanks again
Again, a well informed, well executed and well explained video... thank you Ian, as always... I think I found your videos when I first started out a few years ago, and have watched them ever since, especially as you are a UK based maker which makes the information in the video about tools, etc more relevant, as you pointed out with the glue availability... I found TimeBond comes in a couple of types, a more liquid type, that I have seen you use, and another more viscous type - similar to AussieWax in consistency... I bought the latter as I wasn't aware at the time of the difference and thought it was all the same stuff (we live and learn, as the saying goes!)... I use one of those "cheap plastic applicators" you mentioned and have found it easy to use to apply the glue and spread it evenly and to clean off after use... I have no experience in the Water based solvents... my experience in the Shoe trade going back some 30 odd years ago now was that the Solvent type glues were used, mainly the "Copydex" style of ammonia based glues, so I guess the trade has moved with the times, as that was horribly smelly to use, although over-spill of the glue was easy to clean up, especially once stitched, as you could use a standard pencil eraser to rub it off (Or a ball of the glue itself...) but the memory of the smell put me off using it when I started out, hence turning to TimeBond...
Another great video Ian. As a maker I use 2 main adhesives for my projects. The white water based one and a contact adhesive. I have a shoe repair and use about 3 other adhesives from polyurethane adhesive! Cyonacralyte (crazy glue), spray adhesive and epoxy. Because of the fumes I also use a respirator and a fume buster in my shop Stay safe and thanks again for the video
Good video Ian. ..as usual. Straight up honest presentation I enjoy watching your stuff and your videos are the knowledge base to turn to because you explain in detail then show us how to. .. Well done Ian, yerraguddun. Best wishes as always. LeZc @@
Wow, great info! Water based has a expiration date is news to me! I have an off subject question here on something that you mentioned. You showed a thin leather finished on both sides when talking about gluing card slots together. What is that leather called and weight? Any idea where one would buy that? Thank you for such a thorough video, sure helps me as a newbie! I just discovered your channel through a link at the American Leather Direct (ALD) website. Liked and subscribed to your channel!
Im recovering 3 leather seat cushions on my couch with textured vinyl and glue forming folded edges. what glue wd u recommend for very fast strong bonding leather to vinyl strips that has little or no smell as its indoors eh...thnx
I would like to know if it is possible to glue leather to wood. I am making a dead blow mallet and want to make one end with a leather surface. If so, what would be the best adhesive for this application?
Ian love the videos and I’m very new to this. With that said there is a Tandy leather a few miles from me and they sell the contact glue. Is this something that I can purchase for you and send to you? I’m not sure when it comes to currency what the difference is sorry or how much the shipping would be to get it to you but I don’t mind trying if you need me to.
32:22 Interestingly, this is proving a point made earlier regarding how glue behaves with the different sides of leather. The nylon brush, like leather's flesh side, is fibrous, giving it a very high surface area throughout its volume, leaving many places for the glue to soak through. The silicon brushes, on the other hand, are more like the smooth surface of the grain side, leaving very little for glue to adhere to. It wipes away easily.
It’s the same as the Tandy leatherweld. Same exact stuff. I use it daily. It works well and cleans up easy. Not quite as strong as either tanners bond contact cement or barge contact cement, though.
Kind regards, I am a follower of yours, and I would love, please, could you provide me, some address of a trusted store to buy, tools of artisan shoemaker, to make custom shoes, such as a "gouger" and others special tools related to the trade. Thanks in advance.
The Old LEATHER SMITH here, I use a 20 oz plastic bottle 2 store and use my glues, I drill a 1/8" hole in the screw on cap and use a small piece of Sheep wool skin 2 close the hole and some times smooth it evenly around my project, the cap can also Be used 2 spread the glue, just 2 let you know of another way 2 save and use glue, since I hand sew more than glue I have never lost glue 2 this method, I have been doing leather craft 4 over 40 years, GOD'S BLESSINGS BROTHER ✝️⚾🙃
@@Leodis.Leather I believe U miss understood me, I was only commenting on how U store your glue, I use the bottle, 4 me is easier than what U use, and most recently I have found double sided tape, which I have found is good 4 zippers, that is all, I only do CUSTOM work and TEACH LEATHER CRAFT, so I am ALWAYS willing 2 learn something new, that is Y I watch U Tube channels, if I offended U I apologise. GOD'S BLESSINGS BROTHER ✝️⚾🙃
it can be used for tacking things in place but it's not a primary glue for leatherwork and is best avoided I would say. There are specialist glues available to it's better to use those.
@@Leodis.Leather Please don't take this in the wrong way, but your statement is not true. Saddle makers use wood glue in there builds. I use Titebond and it works very good, other wise I wouldn't of stated it here. The issue most leather pep have is not allowing enough time to let the glue set up. Just like Contact glue, you need to let it set before applying to the saddle tree. I do use a hairdryer to help the process along. But yes you can use wood glue to glue leather together.
I have to disagree with Ian on this one, PVA glue works well, I can't speak for longevity of the bond as the oldest item I've glued with that is only one and a half years old now but for the strength of the glue bond it definitely works. I doubt it will be worse for leather than for wood, as both are porous materials, and more often than not in woodworking it's the wood that breaks - not the bond of PVA.
@@trevordavis2760I'm replying to an old post. About 10 years ago I rawhide-backed an oak bow I made with Titebond. I don't know which version. I soaked the rawhide, spread glue on the wood, and tied it in place with twine for days while the rawhide and the glue both dried. About a week later I trimmed and finished. It's still on there and it would be flinging arrows still, had I extended the rawhide far enough. I split it below the backing.
Ian, very nice video but sorry, I laughed upon seeing the Gorilla urethane glue on the thumbnail of this video.. I haven't tried it on leather but have you? I could imagine it being very unpractical in leatherwork.
@@Leodis.Leather it's very tricky glue, as it requires moisture. And after that it must be clamped tightly because the urethane spreads so much. It would be interesting to see someone use it and see the results.
@@Leodis.Leather I understand. But speaking of Gorilla, that brand's wood glue works in leatherwork quite well - I've used it when working on knife sheaths.
Can we talk about that 30cm long wrist watch band?? Perhaps you wear it on your thigh when you ride a bike? also... great video, thumbs up, subscribed. thanks...
In this video we are talking about the different leather glues available on the market today with a specific focus on more modern, water based glues and how they compare to solvent based glues. There is both a demonstration of using the glue as well as discussion about the different products and applicators available.
Hey mate was wondering if you can give me some insight... how you stock your materials? I mean how you know how much leather you should buy and etc? Do you buy leather in advance or something else?
Ian. Want to thank you for the inspiration your work gave me and thank you for the hours of videos you have that helped me, immensely, in my own leather crafting. I really appreciate everything you've put in to your channel and your work. Thank you.
@@stonecirclecreations961
I agree with you completely.
I love Ian's Channel. He is very thorough in explaining what he is doing in each tutorial.
You have an innate way of knowing what questions that come up while in the middle of making a project I have needed answered, while learning Leathercrafting.
I have ran up against problems right in the middle of a project, and got so frustrated I had to walk away from it.
Then I would look and look on TH-cam, just trying to find out what I needed to do.
I am so glad I found your Channel! You have answered so many questions I have needed answered while in the middle of a project, and giving tips and answers on some things that could be a problem BEFORE I get to them, that I hadn't even thought about beforehand!
Brilliant!
Thank you so much for the information you give on your tutorials, on your Great Channel!
Glad to help :)
Cheers Ian. Just to let you know, everything I have learned about leathercraft, I have learned from you. Thanks a lot mate. Much appreciated. Hope you are feeling better.
Was not aware of the shelf life of the water based glues. I just started in leather work and bought this as I was concerned about the compounds in the solvent based glues. As it turns out, I bought my supplies in the fall of 2019 and did not actually start any projects until March. Good to know my glue may be nearing the end of its useful life. Thanks Ian! Love your work and the education you provide. Very much appreciated my friend!
Thanks for another very good informative video Ian. I've only recently taken up leathercraft as a hobby and have made mostly archery related items so far, armguards and quivers.
I've used 3.5mm veg tan for the two quivers so far and need to glue them prior to stitching. I struggled to understand which glue to use and then found availability difficult, especially during this lockdown.
I ended up buying a tube of own brand contact adhesive from Wilkinson's and it did the job admirably and at just £2 for a decent size tube.
It probably doesn't have all the qualities of more expensive glues but I must say worked for me.
Thanks again.
I used original Barge since 1978 up until this year. February 1
2023. I am using Barge TF. We will see if there is a marked difference.
I'm also trying E6000 and shoe goo.
Actually gluing is a temporary holding method and is not a stand alone binder. Cobblers like myself use glue to build the item before sewing. The benefit of a strong for cable glue helps hold the leather longer and give support to the sewn welt or top leather. When the glue begins to lose its support, then the thread will hold it. The shoes or boots begin to lose some of its form and that's when it might be a good idea to replace a heal or give it a half sole etc.
You want a glue that's not permanent. You want to be able to rebuild the product when needed.
There maybe times you want to just t how it away after you get your use out of it. That's a personal preference but it's not industry standard practice in my experience.
I have a good friend who use to fix shoes in a small room for a shoe business. He got sick and luckily left the industry. It amazes me that they could do that in America.
Rocky Mountain Leather recommended the Aquilim 315. It is fantastic for thin leather projects. I use Master Contact Cement for thicker leather (used by shoe repair shops. Bedo's specically) and there is one other glue. May be Seiwa. From Rocky Mountain. Water based. Single side application. Apply wet, clamp. These are my three mainstays for adhesive/glue. The Aquilim is the most amazing stuff. Bonds in seconds after dry and almost as good as solvent based glue/cement. I will never use Barge ever again. Their newest formula constantly needs thinning in a metal container. I think they changed their formula. Master's is best as a solvent cement.
I tend to use Evo-Stik Impact adhesive for thinker leathers and I also have Aleenes Leather and Suede Glue (Water based) glue for lighter leathers and wallets. I found that some of the water based adhesives can leave a flakey residue which can be a pain, no such issues with solvent based ones. I guess they will get better over time though. Great video thank you Ian, very informative..
I want that rougher and artists spatula 😍 thanks for the info on glues. I have always used barge but hated how bad it is chemically. I think I’m gonna give the water based a try 👍
Glad you’re back. Hope your health continues to improve. I am recovering from a bone marrow transplant. I know how hard recovery can be.
My health hasn’t improved at all, get well soon
Still the best teacher out there !
Funnily enough, in the south american country I am, I didn't even knew about water based glues (and they're super hard to come by, as I researched just now) but I can get a tin of contact cement by crossing the street and walking 60 meters from home.
On another note, I'm certain that if you asked someone here in America, we could send you what you need!
Another Very Informative Video. Thank you very much for posting this, Ian. I would like to also mention spray adhesives. 3M makes some excellent products. I especially like using the 3M Super 77, especially when I am needing to cover a large area. One thing about the water based glues, is that when they get wet, the glue tends to reactivate and the pieces can come apart very easily. I have not had that happen with solvent based glues. I am in Canada, so it's still easy to get the solvent based glues. I used both types of glues and for quick jobs I use the water based and for heavy use or outdoor use, I tend to use the solvent based glues, just for a bit extra security. I did not know about the silicone spatulas from the art supply store. Great tip !! I will have to buy one of those and I will certainly cut that handle down, it seems a bit long. Thanks again for another great post. Take care and stay safe.
spray adhesive is something else I had in the video and cut for time, it has its place but mainly for sticking linings or large areas as it's not easy to control so I don't use it that often. The handle does want cutting down on the silicone brush yes, they're designed for artists but it will cut and sand easily enough.
Hello Ian. Thanks for your response. Yes, I had a suspicion that you had thought about spray adhesive. You are correct, I mainly use it for large pieces like linings and what not and it can be messy to use. Thanks again. Take Care.
I use the water-based glue seiwa from Japan and I will tell you it works very well but I'm not sure about the shelf life this video is the first I've heard of any shelf life with glue
it was news to me as well which is why I thought it was important to include the information
@@Leodis.Leather yes good video as always very informative
Great video. These longer form ones are really interesting. Thanks very much.
Interesting! I’ve never seen the modern water based leather glues used this way, waiting for it to feel dry before combining the layers. The instructions for the glues I’ve seen, including Kyoshin, is to stick the pieces together immediately and then wait for the glue to dry. Like most regular glues really. Having said that, I’ve never seen the exact types you use so I have no reason to doubt your information. Just new to me. Where I live you can only buy old fashioned solvent based contact cement which is odd to me since it isn’t manufactured here and is probably more difficult to import than water based adhesives.
the usage information shown in the video came direct from my discussions with the manufacturers so is correct
@@Leodis.Leather yes, like I said I have no reason to doubt you. Thank you for responding! 🙂 I have learned a lot from your videos!
@@Leodis.Leather The glue I was thinking of that differs is the Seiwa which I have now purchased and tested. The label, which I google translated, says that you can apply the glue and then bond and rearrange the pieces freely for twenty minutes before the glue sets. Very useful for some projects although I found it to be more like ten minutes before the parts grab each other. Seems very strong the next day.
Your video led me to the 1816B which I now also use as per your demonstration. I’m very happy with the results so thanks for that!
most thorough video ive seen in a while. Cheers
Thank you for the informative video. I'm in the US and use Tanner's Bond and EcoWeld and both work great. I didn't know the EcoWeld was a rebranded version of the other glue but it's no surprise, really. I'll have to try the silicone brush technique.
Thanks for the video. For me, it seems the water-based glue wins hands down over the solvent glues. I can remember when I was into leatherwork back in the 1970s - the era when the fashion was for hippy style handmade items - I would find after completing a batch session of solvent gluing the result would be ending up as high as a kite, along with a strong headache.
I don't think it wins 'hands down' necessarily because I'm still not convinced it's quite as strong (but it certainly strong enough) and the shelf life of it is frustrating. However, I think the health aspects score more highly that those points so it certainly wins out in terms of that which is the most important thing. Buying one pot of glue per year is a small price to pay for better health!
Answered one of the questions I've been wondering about for a long while. Thanks!
I know I'm a bit late to the party, and I'm more of a hobbyist than anything, but I've been using a DAP product called weldwood contact cement. It works quite well on leather, although I'm not sure about its availability in the UK.
Great seeing you Ian . As always full of great info thanks for the trouble of researching all this . As for me a Barge guy through & through in a well ventilated garage with an exhaust fan that keeps the air clear . Happy trails from the lock down in California .
I've had good results with aquilim on veg tan leather but not so great with waxy chrome tan. So I stuck with barge for that. Trying out saregum 130 now. So far so good.
Greetings Ian. Many different considerations when it comes to leather adhesives. Strength is of course #1 on anyone's list. But for me the #2, which wasn't mentioned, is 'aroma.' When a project has concluded, and the client handles their item for the first time, mine always put it to their nose. Is it preferable that a well crafted item reek like a glue factory? My answer is: definitely no. Any self respecting artisan would prefer that it smell like fresh leather. Seiwa remains my first choice. It bonds quickly, dries clear, cleans up easily and is completely fragrance free. Thanks for the content.
I’ve never used any glue that has any aroma once dry of any kind.
I use a Solvent based glue, and just like the Customer, I enjoy smelling the work as I go through the construction :oD I also have not noticed any residual smell left from the Solvent Based glue once it has gone past it's curing time...
Thanks Ian, a lot of helpful information. I haven't used any of the water based glues, but like you I have stocked up with solvent based because they have run out a couple of times at our local Tandy store.
There is a Tandi big store in Spain, a city call Jerez de la Frontera, Tandi EU.
Just what I needed, being a person who lives in the uk
Thanks for that informative video, I wonder and need what product is available in UK to repair a very superficial scratch on a veg tan leather which is already with the finishes.
Thanks again
Again, a well informed, well executed and well explained video... thank you Ian, as always... I think I found your videos when I first started out a few years ago, and have watched them ever since, especially as you are a UK based maker which makes the information in the video about tools, etc more relevant, as you pointed out with the glue availability... I found TimeBond comes in a couple of types, a more liquid type, that I have seen you use, and another more viscous type - similar to AussieWax in consistency... I bought the latter as I wasn't aware at the time of the difference and thought it was all the same stuff (we live and learn, as the saying goes!)... I use one of those "cheap plastic applicators" you mentioned and have found it easy to use to apply the glue and spread it evenly and to clean off after use... I have no experience in the Water based solvents... my experience in the Shoe trade going back some 30 odd years ago now was that the Solvent type glues were used, mainly the "Copydex" style of ammonia based glues, so I guess the trade has moved with the times, as that was horribly smelly to use, although over-spill of the glue was easy to clean up, especially once stitched, as you could use a standard pencil eraser to rub it off (Or a ball of the glue itself...) but the memory of the smell put me off using it when I started out, hence turning to TimeBond...
Amazing video! Objective, clear and well based information.
In the UK Aquilim 315 is available from Leather and Grindery (a shoe repairs supplier), they are cheaper than Amazon.
Perhaps but they are currently out of stock and the entire shop is shut
Ian Atkinson Fair enough.
Thanks for this really useful overview 😊👍
Great tutorial, thank you!
Another great video Ian. As a maker I use 2 main adhesives for my projects. The white water based one and a contact adhesive. I have a shoe repair and use about 3 other adhesives from polyurethane adhesive! Cyonacralyte (crazy glue), spray adhesive and epoxy.
Because of the fumes I also use a respirator and a fume buster in my shop
Stay safe and thanks again for the video
I like using a toothpick for applying a thin line of glue for stitching.
ah, cool video Ian! I enjoyed this very much!
Very comprehensive, cheers!
Good video Ian. ..as usual.
Straight up honest presentation I enjoy watching your stuff and your videos are the knowledge base to turn to because you explain in detail then show us how to. .. Well done Ian, yerraguddun.
Best wishes as always.
LeZc
@@
Wow, great info! Water based has a expiration date is news to me! I have an off subject question here on something that you mentioned. You showed a thin leather finished on both sides when talking about gluing card slots together. What is that leather called and weight? Any idea where one would buy that? Thank you for such a thorough video, sure helps me as a newbie! I just discovered your channel through a link at the American Leather Direct (ALD) website. Liked and subscribed to your channel!
Many thanks Ian very useful information
Thanks for the info Ian, a lot of good quality information there
Excellent Guide Ian! Thank you for sharing valuable knowledge!
Any thoughts on Klebfest? I'm getting good results with it so far.
No, never used it.
Im recovering 3 leather seat cushions on my couch with textured vinyl and glue forming folded edges. what glue wd u recommend for very fast strong bonding leather to vinyl strips that has little or no smell as its indoors eh...thnx
Have you ever used hide glue?
what is a good spray glue?
I would like to know if it is possible to glue leather to wood. I am making a dead blow mallet and want to make one end with a leather surface. If so, what would be the best adhesive for this application?
Yes you can use contact adhesive
@@Leodis.Leather Thanks for your reply.
Very informative review Ian
Ian love the videos and I’m very new to this. With that said there is a Tandy leather a few miles from me and they sell the contact glue. Is this something that I can purchase for you and send to you? I’m not sure when it comes to currency what the difference is sorry or how much the shipping would be to get it to you but I don’t mind trying if you need me to.
thanks for the offer but that's not necessary, the same issues with shipping would be there as mentioned in the video
Excellent Ian, many thanks.....
Very helpful! Thank you so much!
32:22 Interestingly, this is proving a point made earlier regarding how glue behaves with the different sides of leather. The nylon brush, like leather's flesh side, is fibrous, giving it a very high surface area throughout its volume, leaving many places for the glue to soak through. The silicon brushes, on the other hand, are more like the smooth surface of the grain side, leaving very little for glue to adhere to. It wipes away easily.
This is so useful. Thank you.
One other water based glue I would be curious about would be Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement. Have you had any experience with it?
It’s the same as the Tandy leatherweld. Same exact stuff. I use it daily. It works well and cleans up easy. Not quite as strong as either tanners bond contact cement or barge contact cement, though.
thanks for the information
Kind regards, I am a follower of yours, and I would love, please, could you provide me, some address of a trusted store to buy, tools of artisan shoemaker, to make custom shoes, such as a "gouger" and others special tools related to the trade. Thanks in advance.
The Old LEATHER SMITH here, I use a 20 oz plastic bottle 2 store and use my glues, I drill a 1/8" hole in the screw on cap and use a small piece of Sheep wool skin 2 close the hole and some times smooth it evenly around my project, the cap can also Be used 2 spread the glue, just 2 let you know of another way 2 save and use glue, since I hand sew more than glue I have never lost glue 2 this method, I have been doing leather craft 4 over 40 years, GOD'S BLESSINGS BROTHER ✝️⚾🙃
Everything I make is hand sewn but it still all gets glued, I never just line pieces up and stitch them.
@@Leodis.Leather I believe U miss understood me, I was only commenting on how U store your glue, I use the bottle, 4 me is easier than what U use, and most recently I have found double sided tape, which I have found is good 4 zippers, that is all, I only do CUSTOM work and TEACH LEATHER CRAFT, so I am ALWAYS willing 2 learn something new, that is Y I watch U Tube channels, if I offended U I apologise. GOD'S BLESSINGS BROTHER ✝️⚾🙃
Brilliant Ian, thank you.
long yes worth it YES Thank You very much
Hey, Ian! Do you have any experience with PVA (common woodworking glue) - are there any drawbacks, except time to dry?
it can be used for tacking things in place but it's not a primary glue for leatherwork and is best avoided I would say. There are specialist glues available to it's better to use those.
Ian Atkinson thanks
@@Leodis.Leather Please don't take this in the wrong way, but your statement is not true. Saddle makers use wood glue in there builds. I use Titebond and it works very good, other wise I wouldn't of stated it here. The issue most leather pep have is not allowing enough time to let the glue set up. Just like Contact glue, you need to let it set before applying to the saddle tree. I do use a hairdryer to help the process along. But yes you can use wood glue to glue leather together.
I have to disagree with Ian on this one, PVA glue works well, I can't speak for longevity of the bond as the oldest item I've glued with that is only one and a half years old now but for the strength of the glue bond it definitely works. I doubt it will be worse for leather than for wood, as both are porous materials, and more often than not in woodworking it's the wood that breaks - not the bond of PVA.
@@trevordavis2760I'm replying to an old post.
About 10 years ago I rawhide-backed an oak bow I made with Titebond. I don't know which version. I soaked the rawhide, spread glue on the wood, and tied it in place with twine for days while the rawhide and the glue both dried. About a week later I trimmed and finished.
It's still on there and it would be flinging arrows still, had I extended the rawhide far enough. I split it below the backing.
Ian, very nice video but sorry, I laughed upon seeing the Gorilla urethane glue on the thumbnail of this video.. I haven't tried it on leather but have you? I could imagine it being very unpractical in leatherwork.
It can be used on leather, I never have.
@@Leodis.Leather it's very tricky glue, as it requires moisture. And after that it must be clamped tightly because the urethane spreads so much. It would be interesting to see someone use it and see the results.
It was just there for the thumbnail to be honest
@@Leodis.Leather I myself use the cheapest contact cement from local market, I tried also the Seiwa water based glue. It worked allright.
@@Leodis.Leather I understand. But speaking of Gorilla, that brand's wood glue works in leatherwork quite well - I've used it when working on knife sheaths.
Thank you very much!
Can we talk about that 30cm long wrist watch band??
Perhaps you wear it on your thigh when you ride a bike?
also... great video, thumbs up, subscribed. thanks...
It’s called a NATO strap
👍👍👍👍thanks
Hard times😕
Please increase your audio level.
Gummo sent me.
💗💝💗