Oh man I feel this video SO much. My house was built in 1978 and has had a few owners over the years that have done some special DIY jobs haha. I’ve been redoing my sprinkler system all summer and find stuff like this all the time. Pulled out a bunch of repairs and put in simple couplings and new pipe. One of the worst things was I have 9 valves, but somehow it got down to 8 wires and then 6 at the controller… because they bought a 6 zone controller. I bought a 12 zone, and rewired it all so I can actually run each valve on its own zone. It was a nightmare to troubleshoot before with multiple valves activating with a single zone.
All kinds of "bad" ! Nice opp to make it almost like new. Good stuff. Two years ago, a repair call from a new potential client. He had a "mysterious" leak which I found as I was doing what I'd call fuss budget maintenance on an old valve manifold and v box arrangement. I used a hose(w a sprayer which enabled me to off/on the flow and control it) to clean off the valves and what-have-you. Before filling in around the v box and such, I turned on the system, which I had turned off before digging around the valves. To my pleasant surprise, a tiny spray showed from a nearly-invisible crack in a tee in the manifold, which was why I was there in the first place. The case was solve-ed because I was being thorough and going about it patiently and not getting freaked out. The client is a very nice guy, who shared in the mellow vibe, which is a big part of it. A good experience and impressed new client. I wasn't the first guy there, either, so I looked good. PTL.
I had five repairs within 5 feet and am going to follow your advice, especially did back further. My problem is putting the pieces together before the cement hardens. Also, most videos show putting the cement glue over the primer before it dries even. Is it okay to let it dry completely first?
Oh man. I know the feeling. It is recommended to not let the primer dry completely before the cement goes on. Most of the solvent welds out there dry really fast, so you must work quickly. Have everything nearby and set out and ready to go and easy to reach. This will help glue pieces together fast before the weld sets up. Hope this helps.
Yeah man, I cut that kind of crap out all the time. I love how people use slip fixes on a lateral line. Dig back and 2 couplings,bell or k flex options and your done
I just subscribed... thanks for the good ideas. Have you done one on multiple zones coming on at the same time?... problem that I am trouble shooting now.
Lmao so it’s not just here in Northern California where people decide to put two slip fixes on a mainline or slip pics going right into a compression fitting lol I just posted a few videos about this a while back great content keep it coming
I know what you mean. I see some real thin stuff out there that is terrible. We use mainly class 200 but I will use schedule 40 for main line a lot of the time. Our soil here is a sandy loam with not very many rocks so class 200 works well, but when I work in other places where there are a lot of rocks I'll use sch 40 for everything and backfill with good top soil.
@@AmericanIrrigator I have learned the hard way to avoid using compression couplings, slip fixes and push on fittings and eliminate/remove them whenever I can. instead I've been using no-stop couplings that have been much more dependable and way cheaper. Also I only use schedule 40 pipe and fittings.
Oh man I feel this video SO much. My house was built in 1978 and has had a few owners over the years that have done some special DIY jobs haha. I’ve been redoing my sprinkler system all summer and find stuff like this all the time. Pulled out a bunch of repairs and put in simple couplings and new pipe. One of the worst things was I have 9 valves, but somehow it got down to 8 wires and then 6 at the controller… because they bought a 6 zone controller. I bought a 12 zone, and rewired it all so I can actually run each valve on its own zone. It was a nightmare to troubleshoot before with multiple valves activating with a single zone.
All kinds of "bad" ! Nice opp to make it almost like new. Good stuff.
Two years ago, a repair call from a new potential client.
He had a "mysterious" leak which I found as I was doing what I'd call fuss budget maintenance on an old valve manifold and v box arrangement.
I used a hose(w a sprayer which enabled me to off/on the flow and control it) to clean off the valves and what-have-you.
Before filling in around the v box and such, I turned on the system, which I had turned off before digging around the valves. To my pleasant surprise, a tiny spray showed from a nearly-invisible crack in a tee in the manifold, which was why I was there in the first place.
The case was solve-ed because I was being thorough and going about it patiently and not getting freaked out. The client is a very nice guy, who shared in the mellow vibe, which is a big part of it.
A good experience and impressed new client. I wasn't the first guy there, either, so I looked good. PTL.
Way to go. Keep up the good work.
I had five repairs within 5 feet and am going to follow your advice, especially did back further. My problem is putting the pieces together before the cement hardens. Also, most videos show putting the cement glue over the primer before it dries even. Is it okay to let it dry completely first?
Oh man. I know the feeling. It is recommended to not let the primer dry completely before the cement goes on. Most of the solvent welds out there dry really fast, so you must work quickly. Have everything nearby and set out and ready to go and easy to reach. This will help glue pieces together fast before the weld sets up. Hope this helps.
The instructions from the cement manufacturers usually say to apply the cement "immediately and while primer is still wet".
Yeah man, I cut that kind of crap out all the time. I love how people use slip fixes on a lateral line. Dig back and 2 couplings,bell or k flex options and your done
Yes. You got it.
Good useful tips!
the compression coupling started leaking because the slip fix retracted. You can't use a slip fix near any type of gasketed joint.
That's right. Good point.
I just subscribed... thanks for the good ideas. Have you done one on multiple zones coming on at the same time?... problem that I am trouble shooting now.
Lmao so it’s not just here in Northern California where people decide to put two slip fixes on a mainline or slip pics going right into a compression fitting lol I just posted a few videos about this a while back great content keep it coming
I hate thin wall, I know it's cheaper but it always costs way more in repairs than it saves up front
I know what you mean. I see some real thin stuff out there that is terrible. We use mainly class 200 but I will use schedule 40 for main line a lot of the time. Our soil here is a sandy loam with not very many rocks so class 200 works well, but when I work in other places where there are a lot of rocks I'll use sch 40 for everything and backfill with good top soil.
why not dig back another 2 feet on the low side and ditch the elbow, didn't you just say simpler is better?
Good idea. Any time you can do that, it would be good.
@@AmericanIrrigator I have learned the hard way to avoid using compression couplings, slip fixes and push on fittings and eliminate/remove them whenever I can. instead I've been using no-stop couplings that have been much more dependable and way cheaper. Also I only use schedule 40 pipe and fittings.
Glueing straight is difficult. Elbow is proper. But in this case pipe was long so it could have been bent to get in the straight fitting to glue.
Pvc is garbage for irrigation