Make your own T-Tracks and T-Slots!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2024
- Includes tips for sharpening router bits, and setting router table fence distance. Why spend money on buying t-tracks, when you can cut your own t-slots, or make your own t-tracks, using specialized router bits? I demo a $14 bit, and a $35 bit. Believe it or not, I like the cheaper one better!
Index:
Start: 00:00
Yonico Bit: 00:49
Rockler Bit: 02:59
Making T-Tracks: 04:01
T-Slot Bits Recap: 07:04
Closing: 08:11
Other Relevant Videos:
Installing T-Tracks, for Newbies: • Installing T-Tracks, f...
Review of Powertec T-Tracks: • Review of Powertec T-T...
Dust Collection for Router Table Dados: • Dust Collection for Ro...
All Products featured in my videos: www.amazon.com/shop/thenewbie...
Products seen in this video:
NOTE: The Yonico bit linked here probably isn't the one shown in the video, so double-check the specs before you buy it: Router Bit (T-Slot) - Yonico: amzn.to/2KjREhN
Router Bit (T-Slot) - Rockler: amzn.to/2NWBvSm
Router Bit and Saw Blade Cleaning Kit - Rockler: amzn.to/2LTwCLX
Sharpening Hone (Double-Sided): amzn.to/2LU0ibz
Sharpening Hone (Single-Sided): www.homedepot.com/p/DMT-Singl...
Kreg Router Table Setup Bars: amzn.to/2LgFniP
Featherboards: amzn.to/2Aw1ygD
Digital Height Gauge - Wixey: amzn.to/2LMbgRh
Router Bit (1/4" Shank) - 1/4" x 3/4" - Freud: amzn.to/2M9F06G
Router Bit (1/4" Shank) - 3/8" x 7/8" - Freud: amzn.to/2AxwYmV
Flip Stop - 2 1/4" - Rockler: amzn.to/2JrkAnD
Router Plate (Phenolic) - Rockler: amzn.to/2D4q1q9
Xtreme Xtension Router Collet Extension: amzn.to/2AxfM0H
Push Block - Bench Dog: amzn.to/2Fv6AJ2
Micro Jig Grr-Ripper: amzn.to/2CELfvw
Caliper (Digital): amzn.to/2CasjDX
SawStop JobSite Table Saw - Amazon: amzn.to/2HkawNh - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![แข่งแลกของ 1 วัน!! ของใครแพงสุดชนะ!! [Ver.2024]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/joRT59ilPHg/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for sharing your skills with us. The use of clamps to return the fence to the original position is brilliant. Thank you.
Thanks! I always try to throw in different tips, and I'm glad that one helped. Using clamps like that really does make it simpler. 😄
Thanks for such a comprehensive explanation. Your craftwork looks exemplary and I enjoy your presentation. Thanks again.
Thanks for the nice words! And you're welcome! 😄
Another great video, Dan! I love your experimentation, education, and humor. I never thought of using wooden t-tracks, but I like this. 👍🏼
Thanks! What humor? 😛
A very timely video for me. I watched several on this topic and yours was by far the best.
Thanks! That means a lot! 😄
Yes, you are indeed an engineer. THANKS! Your engineering background makes your top down (completed project shown 1st) presentation great! Plus I like the long list of links you post for parts. Keep it up! We need more engineers making woodworking videos. I myself got my BSEE from NCSU in '77. Yes that far back :)
Thanks for the great comment! Technically, I'm a software engineer, but it's the same mindset. I got my first programming job in 1979, so I suspect we're close in age. The links are actually "affiliate" links, which means I earn a small amount on each purchase (at no extra expense to you), so being thorough is as much for my benefit as yours. 😛 And yes, I prefer to show everything first. I realize it means I'll get some people who drop out early, but I hate it when videos make me wait to the end to see what the video is really about. I try to make a video I would want to watch. For better or worse! 😂 Thanks again.
laughing at "programming", they call themselves developers nowadays don't they. That explains why you are very thorough in your tutorials...each instruction a line of code :-) thanks for all your efforts Dan.
@@RADCOMJ1 Yeah, I'm very logically-minded. It's one of the reasons it takes me too long to make videos. Everything has to add up. 😄
I've been planning to make my own t track, and your explanation and experiences with it are very helpful. Thank you
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
Very well presented, thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
Great video! Very informative and well presented. Thanks!
Thanks, and you're quite welcome!
Thanks! I just ordered my Yonico T track router bit on Amazon just now!
Awesome! I hope it works well for you.
Amazing, your workshop is very clean. Good job
Thanks. And it's only clean when the camera is rolling. 😄
This is Genius! I'm doing that to my drill press!! Thanks so much for posting this!
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
Thank you for a very well explained and informative video, great tips and presentation
Take care
Sam
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
Looks nice and subtle.
Thanks for the comment!
Love your sense of humour. " Just kidding. I love fire" chuckled
Thanks! 😄
I'm a subscriber. A truly brilliant video leaving some good tips as well as the router bit demo
Awesome! Thanks! 🙂
Thanks for this video. Been getting things together to do some jig and drill press table with t-track so this was very helpful.
Thanks, and glad to help!
I like the use of the clamps as a method for fence alignment.
i also liked the way you phrased the joke ending with "...i like fire." :)
Thanks, Steve! I was hoping the clamp idea would be useful. And thanks for getting the joke. I was afraid nobody would get it. 😛
Thanks, very clear and concise. Well done!
Thanks! 😄
What an EXCELLENT video!
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
Great edutainment! Love your wit as well as your wisdom. Liked and subscribed.
Thanks! Glad to have you aboard! 😄
Very informative & passionating video sir. Thanks you
Thanks! 😄
Excellent, as always.
Thanks! 😄
Goo video Dan I worked at a ArchitectualWoodworking company for over 25 years and one of the owners was excellent at creating internal systems on how we built and installed everything we made one of those systems was using 1/4” inch bolts for most of our jigs and machine set ups including T tracks the benefit of that was if you stocked the 1/4X20 bolts in every size in stock and we did you were almost always guaranteed to make it work in house that cut down on costly down time and having to run around town trying to find all the hardware
Thanks, and I totally agree. In fact, I'm mentioning that idea in the video I'm working on right now. Great minds think alike, I guess. 😄
Very Helpful Video.
Thank you!
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
Your channel is really fantastic.
Thanks! I appreciate it! 🙂
I've seen other two videos with YONICO router bits, and all of them highly recommend that brand.
Interesting. Thanks for the info! 😄
Thank you. That was very informative.
You're quite welcome!
I really enjoy your videos!
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
Great video. Great channel. Thanks for the great content.
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
You always do a great job!
Thanks!
- Thanx for the hints.
You're welcome!
nice explanation simple and informative thanks
Thanks, and you're welcome!
Cool build!
Thanks! 😄
Very interesting. Gave me a slew of ideas
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
Great video thanks,a hug here from Portugal 🇵🇹🇵🇹🇵🇹
Thanks! 😄
Thank you for making this video. I got some great ideas that will help me in my current project. I'm just in the planning stage of building a router table(on a budget, haha) and I have been trying to figure out how I was going to handle the fence and a track for a miter gauge. I also liked your setup for holding down materials on the drill press. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! A couple of thoughts, for the budget-minded 😄:
1) For a router table, the fence doesn't *need* t-tracks. You can just clamp the fence to the table, as long as your table has enough overhanging lip to clamp to. I've seen some TH-cam videos on the subject, but honestly, a board with a cut-out for the bit is all that's absolutely necessary.
2) As for the miter track, I have one and never use it. That doesn't mean *you'll* never use it, but you could always add one later.
3) Lastly, in case you haven't seen it, I have a video on building a router lift: th-cam.com/video/LJqPDADi8MM/w-d-xo.html. And I show how you can use it as a mini router table until you can build a "real" table. 😄
The Newbie Woodworker thanks for the tips.
@@njneer 👍
@@TheNewbieWoodworker We really appreciate your honest response: "you really don't need T-Tracks for the fence... That´s good!
@@alfredomarquez9777 Thanks! I actually like having t-tracks for the fence, but I don't have a good reason. I think I just like the looks. 😄
Well done!
Thanks! 😄
Great ! I need to make T tracks for my router table in order to make T tracks !
That sounds about right. 😄
Great humor👏🏼
Thanks! 😄
Thanks for the info. 👍
You're quite welcome! 😄
good help. thank you for the tutorial.
Thanks! Glad to help. 😄
Thanks! Best explanation!
Thanks, and you're welcome! 😄
great video, thanks!
Thanks!
That was awesome.. thank you
You're quite welcome! 😄
I just watched this video right after I watched your review of the PowerTec T Track. Hmmmmmm conundrum.
If you don't mind spending the money, I'd buy the PowerTec, as opposed to cutting my own t-track. Unless you have a good reason for cutting your own. It looks nice, and it's smooth.
Awesome ! You bet me to it.
Now I know it can be done. Thx
You're quite welcome! 😄
12/1/2020 USA Grandpa Bill: I'm new here Sir, and after seeing just one of your videos I subscribed. Your speed, careful selection of material, and video prowess have made my viewing and learning experience pleasant and productive. Your voice, appearance (lower half of face), and methods of presentation make me think you are a principal of a school and have written lesson plans hidden under the boards. Thank you for being on TH-cam, for the energy and effort you put into these well-timed instructional lessons. I admire your work, and I'm here to stay. (Unless you suspend me for smoking in the garage. -Bill
LOL, and thanks, Bill! And as long as you don't smoke in *my* garage, I don't mind at all. 😄 I'm a retired software engineer, and I spent a lot of time writing documentation for other developers, so this really isn't anything new for me (except for the video part). I'm thrilled you're enjoying it, and welcome aboard!
Thanks Dan, your videos are great! I like your router fence that I've seen in several of your videos, particular with the dust collection port. Do you have any videos or hints on how that fence was constructed? Pausing your videos gives me some clues, but you've got some details with knobs and dust collection that intrigue me. Thanks again.
Thanks, Mark. I don't have a video of my router table, sorry. But you can see some of it here: th-cam.com/video/CqctN68a46o/w-d-xo.html. And I have a couple of SketchUp models here: 3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/by/TheNewbieWoodworker. And of course, my router lift is here: th-cam.com/video/LJqPDADi8MM/w-d-xo.html
great video
Thanks! 🙂
One disadvantage of using wooden t-tracks is that when locking a bolt down, you can only apply as much pressure as the wood will allow. Oak could split, and ply can separate from the other plies. This is why aluminum is better. That said, if you never need more than what the wood will support... great! But I wouldn't use it for say a drill press, or band saw jig, which might need to really stay put. Some useful info here, and I'll definitely be looking into the router bits!
Thanks for the comment, and I think I pretty-much agree with what you said. I will say, however, that the ones on my drill press still work, and they haven't broken yet. I can hear some cracking noises if I really tighten down the clamps, but they still work, more than a year later. Knock on wood. 😄
Well done.
Thanks!
wow, the imperial system seems so difficult to learn when i hear other people use it. Much respect for those people that are able to work with that system.
LOL. There's plusses and minuses. For instance, 1/8" in decimal is .125. What's half of .125? I'd have to think. But fractionally, you just double the bottom number, so half of 1/8" is 1/16". Don't get me wrong, I'd rather not deal with fractions, but like I said, there are at least a few plusses.
we don't need your respect. we can do fractions..
@@ydnark83 thank you, you are a nice person
I find it easier on the router if I make initial grooves using a circular saw then follow up with the t-track bit.
Stay safe and all the best from Australia.
Interesting - thanks!
Gosto muito de ver vc trabalhando sou novato e sempre aprendo um pouco muito bom.
Ainda bem que pude ajudar!
Nice job. Doing one myself atm.
Thanks, and cool - Good luck!
Good stuff
Thanks! 😄
I can see the difference in price between Yonico and Rockler bit but you have to account for the 1/4" vs 1/2" shank bits. Even identical cutter bits from same manufacturer are different prices if different shank sizes as far as I have seen. Regardless of the price very informative video TYVM
True enough. And thanks!
Careful with the Yoniko 3/8" bits. The head should be 1/16" smaller. If you get dust on your shaft and think you are bottoming out, the head will twist through the slot.. The 3/8" shaft has a 9/16 wrench head and will twist right at 5/8" in a wrench, so, softer wood for sure it will twist.
Find another bit for 3/8, or back up the fence 1/8" and make two passes with the 1/4" bit.. 1/4" does all I need though 99% of the time in a wooden track.
Enjoy your videos. Thanks.
Thanks for the info! 👍
Tip. Measure distance from the fence to the cutting blade it's more accurate ❤
👍
Really enjoyed this. Really helpful because that t track is so expensive. Saw one table, the gut had close to $400 worth of track. Six intersections and a few straight pieces. Ridiculous.
Thanks, and I'm glad it helped. By the way, Powertec makes a decent t-track that's reasonably cheap: amzn.to/2Nhuw5A. Not enough so I'm going to make that kind of table, of course. 😄
I used cheap curtain rail track with ground down carriage bolts for my drill press table.
Hey, whatever works, right? :)
A different kind of comment for you. Your Photoshop simulation of the t-slots installed on your drill press table is pretty good from a perspective point of view. The right side t-slot is spot on in fact, but the left not so good. If you are using a Windows PC then Lazy Nezumi Pro has a preset called Vanishing lines that lets you set rulers to existing perspective so you can match composited elements to it. It is an absolute god-send for illustrators. It's the best $35 you'll ever spend when it comes to Photoshop plug-ins. It's still doable if you have a Mac. Bert Monroy, for instance uses a Mac, and what he does is map a pair of connected paths to the existing perspective to find the vanishing point, and move the outer ends of the paths to create guides. When transforming to match perspective, always make the layer a Smart Object - this keeps the handles in the original corners for if you want to fine tune. BTW I am an Adobe Community Professional and you can find me on the Adobe forums. Good luck.
Thanks for the information. FYI, I was using the term "photoshop" as a generic term - I actually did it in GIMP. And for videos like this, "close enough" is plenty good enough. 😄
Nice! I really like them metal t-tracks also. Maybe a little too much, Something about them just makes you want to build a jig even if you don’t need one. Lately I’ve been pricing the aluminum extrusion with T-slots, and 😐😭 why oh why does the good things gotta be just outta reach. Guess this is one of the excuses we build (even if it’s at double the cost, lol). Build on my friend, build on! Enjoy your videos👍
Thanks, and I know what you mean about wanting to build something just to use them. 😄 Powertech makes some that are cheaper, and still good quality.
Just saw this video and I use the cheap bit with t slot bolts just move the fence 1/16 each way then use 1/4 or 5/16 T bolts 😊
Thanks for sharing! 😄
Just thinking of getting into using my router (I bought years ago) and your video was quite timely
Great! Make sure you watch some safety videos. I didn't do that, when I first started using my router a lot, and I made some very bad mistakes that could have had serious consequences. A little TH-cam time would have prevented it. 😮
The Newbie Woodworker I certainly will Just recovering from a recent operation so doing little else these days, but hopefully not for too long Keep those videos coming. And I second the comment in a subsequent post about the clamps to retain the fence position My table saw has an awful alignment problem so I set up a new one each time I rip something- probably why I don't use it more often - that clamp idea will help me a lot.
@@colrodrick8784 Cool! Good luck with your recovery. 🙂
Once again, nice detailed info on the exact topic I need to upgrade my shop.
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworkerI have been having trouble finding the actual width of standard T-bolt heads. I don't know if it depends on the thread width, but I am looking to buy 5/16" T-bolts. If you have any that size (or close), could you measure the width of the head for me? It would really help, because I have to special order them and I'd like to order the cutter at the same time and minimize the play in the slot.
@@MauriceCalis According to the Rockler website, 5/16" t-bolts: Foot measures 9/16" wide x 7/8" long x 7/64" thick
Being in Europe, it is interesting to see you measure and work with decimals of inches, like 0.6 of an inch.
Trust me, I'd love to be able to do metric, or at least decimal Imperial. And in fact when I use SketchUp, I'm often switching from fractional Imperial to decimal, especially since 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood is almost exactly .7", and 1/2" is almost exactly .45". Hey, now that I think about it, we could keep Imperial measurements, yet still use decimal values. As long as I can remember that .6875" is 11/16"... never mind. 😛And the problem really is that it's hard to find hardware and tools that are metric, in my neck of the woods. So, I make due.
Long live metric, most of the world use it. That's for a reason! It's easier.
Very good.
Thanks!
Greetings from Sonu Model Project Makers Noida India your videos are very useful 👍👍👍🌼
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
Good Job
Thanks!
Newbie Dan, your answer to a better depth gauge is in your hand -@the 5:33 minute As a former machinist, I too had to learn to look at the obvious. The slide out extension on your calipers is for measuring depth/ height even for thicknesses. And also from experience using digital calipers, they can easily be out of adjustment by simple debris in the racking gears. Whereas a dial or veneer can be cleaned and re-zeroed.
William - Thanks for the comment. You got me to stop and think a little - I hate when that happens! 😄 But then I remembered why I used that gauge. I liked how it has two feet, making it more likely I'd get the fence to the right distance. At least that's what I was thinking, anyway. By the way, I have both digital and analog calipers, but I wanted to do the math with decimals. Of course, I didn't realize it was going to be such easy math... Oh, and both of my calipers, and the other gauge, can be calibrated, so that's not an issue. Assuming of course I actually *do* calibrate them. Fortunately, I didn't need to be *that* accurate for this. My table saw's fence, which made the final cut to 1", is a lot less accurate than the gauges. 😛 Do you agree with my thinking about the "two feet"?
The Newbie Woodworker to quote from my cartoon her o Daddy Duck, 'That sounds logical.' And I understand you on zeroing the calipers. And good to hear that yours are able to do so. Back 30 years ago when digital were coming out they were a bugger to keep zeroed.
Again looking forward to seeing more of your drillpress top.
Thanks. I took another look at the digital calipers, and I'm not 100% sure they can be calibrated, however, I can use the "ABS" function to temporarily reset where "0" is, if I need to. I know for a fact the depth gauge can be calibrated, because I did it accidentally once, and had to "undo" it. :) Regarding looking forward to seeing more of my drill press table, so am I! I'm so close to done, I can taste it!!
I use the same gauge for the same reason. The caliper can be trickier to align and to ensure that it's perpendicular to the fence, especially when your fence is opened for the bit and dust collection.
Thanks for the info!
Your router table looks just like mine !
I knew I'd seen it somewhere before. 😂
Very good info & well presented. Questions: How do you think the wood t-tracks will hold up over the long haul? Are you at all worried about wood expansion/contraction? Just curious.....................Thanks again..............
Thanks, and here's the answers: 1) No idea, and 2) yes. Oh, you want more than that? 😛 I think the wood t-tracks will hold up great in everything except for high-stress clamping situations, and since that'll be the case with my drill press table, I guess I'll find out! As for expansion/contraction, I don't have enough experience to know how much it will affect things. I *do* have red oak edging on my router table, and it's over a year old, and the edging hasn't separated or anything. But that's different than being surrounded on both sides by plywood. I guess time will tell, right?
Sapele Steve...aluminium expands and contracts too...!!...but in such small bits of wood etc I don’t expect it is that much, unless you require exceptional accuracy...?
Stuart - Correct. But when you combine two types of wood that have vastly different seasonal changes, then there's definitely a potential for issues. Since it's hot now, the worst that would happen is that when winter comes, the red oak will pull away from the plywood to some degree, as it shrinks. But even if it does, I doubt it'll be an issue. Then again, ask me next year. 😛
Dan, I think you may have slipped. I could be wrong tho. @7:20, when you are talking about the Yonico bit and a 'smaller router', you suggest making multiple passes. It took me awhile to tie that back to using a straight bit before using the 'Yonico'. You made me have to think - but that's a good thing. ;-)
Thanks for the comment. Yep, that wasn't at all clear on my part. The worst part is, I knew it wasn't clear and left it that way. Chalk it up to a case of "I'll be darned if I'm going to make one more change - I'm posting it as is. People will figure it out." Admittedly, that's never a good attitude. But I'm glad you *did* figure it out!
Yeah, I was trying to figure out how you'd do multiple passes with a t-track bit. Thanks for clarifying.
Dangit! I *know* better than to leave something "wrong" when I post a video. Shame on me for not fixing it. I hope this time, I learn my lesson. 🙄
Jay Herde
Informative video!✅
When you talk about taking multiple passes, how can you do that with this bit? Do you mean cutting a dado first then using one of these bits? Thanks!
Thanks! Yes, that's exactly what I mean.
good job
Thanks! 😄
Dan - this is great. I'm working on a clamp/brace mechanism for some custom sliding wood doors I am making. One question though - I don't have a router table or a router. Do you buy the whole router + router table together? It looks like I can get a handheld router used for about $50. Could these tracks be made with that?
Router tables are expensive. You should watch some TH-cam videos to get some idea of what's available. You could also make your own. I don't have a video of that, but I do have a video for a router lift you could build: th-cam.com/video/LJqPDADi8MM/w-d-xo.html.
Yes, you could do it with a handheld router, but I wouldn't recommend trying to route it in a narrow strip of wood. If you can route it in a wider piece first, then cut it down, that would be best.
But most importantly, if you've never used a router, please watch some safety or "how to" videos. Routers are sneaky dangerous. Just see my accident video: th-cam.com/video/BJmdSgWeaas/w-d-xo.html
which router bits did you use i use 5/16 toilet bolts in most of my jigs some 1/4 20 mostly the larger i ordered them threw rockler with star knobs
The Rockler bit will work with the Rockler t-bolts that came with the star knobs. I haven't tried the toilet bolts, but I think they'll work also. If you don't want to spend the money on the Rockler bit, look for other bits that cut the same dimensions.
Thank you so much!! I just bought a bunch of T-Track and then started thinking....can't I just cut the slots into the wood? With a little care I should be able to do so....but I needed some guidance on which bits to use and what heights to set the router tol This will be a vital bookmark until I get familiar with how to do it without continually looking back. 😂😂
Awesome! Glad I could help.
Big thank
You're welcome! 🙂
What a coincidence, I also like fire!
I don't get it - help me out here? I probably just don't remember something I said in the video... 🙄
Thanks so much for this video. I really learn a lot from you. I have a question. Do I need an adapter for the bigger bit because it won’t fit my router?
You're quite welcome. You can't use a bit with a shaft larger than your router will accept. Sorry.
Thanks
@@PastorEbolden 👍
Hi Dan, I need your thought on an observation that I just realize while making (still designing phase in sketchup) a drill press table: some fences have their T-tracks on top (like your drill press, correct?) and some on the side (like your router table or steve's drill press). Are there specific reasons to put them on top or the side? KUTGV! BTW, my drill press will have 3D printed T-tracks (or al least I gonna try, I did not yet see 3D printed T-tracks on youtube makers videos and maybe there is a reason fo :p).
Well, I *think* this is how I do it, but I reserve the right to be wrong. 😄If I want to use a flip-stop, then the t-track goes on the top of the fence (the "back" portion of two 3/4" pieces of plywood glued together). And it has to be a certain height, typically pretty low (check the requirements of the flip-stop you might want to use). But for the router table, I want the fence a little taller so the sliding pieces don't have to be too small, and also so that there's room for the dust port. So like I said, I think this is how I usually think about it. I hope that helps. 😄
Дет ты молодец👍👍👍
Great minds think alike. I have both of the same bits! I'm interested in any strength differences between the aluminum and red oak tracks. Were you planning any non-scientific tests? Along that line, Wood Glue makes the joint stronger. What about a glued up t-track for those without routers and perform the same non-scientific strength test. Just some of the thoughts popping into my head from your video's. Great video once again by the way.
Thanks for the comment. That's funny about the bits. I had the Rockler one for a year or so, and decided to get the Yonico bit for this video - who knew I'd end up loving it? Since I'll be putting these t-tracks in my drill press table, they'll certainly get put to the test, strength-wise. But I'll leave someone else to do the tests. And I'm not a gluing expert by any means, so again, although it's a good idea, I'll leave it for someone else. Thanks!
.
Amana makes a good 5/8 X 3/16 1/2" shank T-Slot bit also, for a few dollars less than the Rockler.
Good to know - thanks!
Отличное решение. Лайк100%👍👍👍
👍
I know...I just found another of your old videos...and in it you said you would be doing a video showing the install of the t-tracks after finishing it...looked all over your channel, could not find one...ever make it?
Yeah, I never did the video. Sorry!
I made a ruler using Free paint...net software. It's accuracy rivals the metal INCRA rulers I bought.
I've already put them into my workbench top and front. And made a 16 inch wide by 1/2 inch tall one zero center for my router fence.
You could have put a ruler on the pieces of oak that you cut off.
Interesting! Thanks for the info. 😄
My question would be, how strong is the shoulder when you clamp down on material. Seems the shoulder of the T-track might snap or is there any upward pressure against the underside of the shoulder?
That's a great question. I've been using these on my drill press table for quite a while now. Yes, they make cracking sounds sometimes when I clamp down hard on something. So far, it hasn't resulted in any visible cracking, but time will tell. Honestly, I think they look great on my drill press table, but they're not nearly as practical as aluminum ones. Using them on something like a router table or a router table fence would make more sense, because any clamping doesn't really put much lifting pressure on them.
Did you change your dust collection set up? The dust collection video where all your tools were in line.
Nope, it's pretty-much the same. The router table is at the end of my tools, and I don't feature it much, so maybe you just haven't noticed before?
Are they still holding up or have you since switched over to manufactured t-slots? Also, do you think that using regular bolts is better than using t-slot bolts? Here’s why I ask...I’m thinking that the extra thickness of a regular bolt head would work better up against the wood groove, than the super thin head of a regular t-bolt or toilet bolt. I’m wondering if the regular thin t-boots or toilet bolts would eventually created spots in the groove that would make it hard to clamp to if needing to be off by a small fraction. For example let’s say a stop was regularly used at 20” over and over again. I’m assuming an indented groove would be created at that exact spot from the repeated use, especially from a thin t-bolt in a wood slot. If I now needed to have a stop block at 19 7/8” for example, I’m wondering if it would be extremely hard to do because the t-bolt would naturally fall into the 20” groove that was made from repeated use. A regular bolt I’m assuming could create the same issue, but with the extra “meat” (metal on the head), would it be less?
Curious to hear your experience.
I think you're worries are well-founded. If I was using them like that, I think I'd want aluminum tracks. To me, it's not worth saving a few bucks when something is critical, like that.
FWIW, I'm still using them in my drill press table, which is the only place I installed them. I use carriage bolts now, because they slide really well with the rounded heads. I use an angle grinder to flatten two "sides" of the head, so it fits in the slot. Have to be careful not to grind off *too* much, but it's easy once you do it a couple of times.
So far the track is holding up fine. If I crank down a clamp too much, I can hear the wood "creaking", so I try to be careful. Personally, I love the way it looks in my drill press table, especially on camera. But I don't know how much I'd use them in other projects - I'd have to think on it for a while.
The Newbie Woodworker. Thanks for the detailed reply and update. Very helpful!
@@PartyTimeProDJs 👍
Thank you for this very informative video. T-tracks are awesome! Can you please tell us about your video setup. Editing software, camera, lights, microphone. etcetera. Thank you so much!
Thanks! For software, I use Final Cut Pro X to do the editing. And I have a lot of stuff automated using Keyboard Maestro along with a lot of custom JavaScript (JXA) code. I use iZotope RX 7 Audio Editor (fantastic software) to clean up my mouth clicks, which there are a ton of, and remove some of the echo from recording in my office. I also use it to help clean up the shop background sounds, by removing the AC or fan noises, etc. And I use a plugin from Neat Software that clears up some of the graininess in the video, since I use cheap cameras. Speaking of which...
Hardware-wise, I use a couple of Canon Powershot cameras. I have LED lights in the workshop, but I supplement them with a pair of Neewer LED fill lights. I have an articulated ceiling mounted camera dolly I built, that I use most of the time. Otherwise I use a cheap Amazon tripod. For the few times I do voice work in the shop, I have an Aspen lavalier mic, and a Zoom H1 recorder. For voiceovers, which is what I do most often, I use a Blue mic on a Rode articulating arm.
I'm probably forgetting something, but that's the gist of it. Too much info? 😛
I have been thinking about grabbing one of those bits. How strong are the slots?
So far, they're holding up pretty well. The ones cut with the smaller bit.
I have seen someone use slat wall as T-track on a CNC machine, he also used the aluminum track reinforcement
Interesting. Man, if I had a CNC machine and a 3D printer, I'd never come out of my room. 😛
Newbie:
Too funny ¡
Get yourself a Snapmaker, which is a 3 in 1 (Laser Cutter, CNC Engraver & 3D Printer) Check it out at snapmaker.com. I am buying one in about two months time.
LOL. I'd end up spending so much time playing with it, I'd never get another video done! 😛
“I love fire.” 😂😂😂
😂
Hi there!
Yonico does have 1/2" shank t-slot router bits. 3/8" X 1/2" and 1/2" X 1/2."
I don't know if they sell them separately, because the ones I have came with the big 1/2" shank. set. I hope this will help somebody though.
Thanks! 😄
I’m going to try and make some wooden T tracks myself
👍
Cool idea. I use t tracks on my projects on my channel. However, I can't imagine these are even close to as strong as the aluminum ones. What have you experiencd since you've made them?
They're actually surprisingly tough (depending on what they're made out of), but obviously not nearly as good as the aluminum ones. There are a lot of times where you don't need a lot of downward pressure, like with a fence. But the bottom line, for me, is that I'd only use them if there was a specific reason to, like how something looks. Especially since I've learned that you can use epoxy with aluminum t-tracks, so if you don't have enough room for screws, the epoxy holds great.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker That's awesome, good to know! Thanks!
@@HowIDoThingsDIY You're quite welcome! 😄
Quick question for a newbie router owner. When you seat a bit in the router do you drop it in as far as you can?
Yes, but then you lift it back out a little, maybe 1/16" (which is pretty hard to judge, so just back it out "a little"). When the bit gets hot, it expands, and if it presses down against the bottom of the collet, it can get stuck.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Thanks for the reply. I'll use a feeler gauge for both.
@@hogue3666 You're welcome. You don't have to be that precise - just as long as it's off the bottom, I'm sure it's OK.