Funny how the algorithm works, This was one of the first inlay videos I liked and downloaded way back in 2011, and it pops back up on my suggested list today. Still one of the best demonstrations on using the inlay kit.
Brian, your vid couldn't have been better! Your timing and, especially, your dry sense of humor added to a superb instructional piece of work. My inlay set just arrived in the mail - thanx!
Great instructional video Brian! I've had an inlay bushing/bit for a score of years and have never used it. When I do get ready to tackle an inlay project I'll definitely refer back to this vid. Great instruction and tips!
I have seen many, many, woodworking videos and I must saw you are the ONLY person I have seen use a chisel in the way it was intended. Congrats, And thanks for the vid.
A few years ago, I discovered your series "At the lathe". Over the following several weeks you taught me everything I needed to know about wood turning to feel comfortable at the lathe and well equipped to continue learning by experimentation. Thank you for that. This video is another excellent example of your teaching capabilities, so thank you once again. Off to find the mentioned second video in this series. Thanks always for sharing. Cheers from BC.
Wow Brian! The Production & Editing was Superbly done! I thoroughly enjoyed the entire process! Thanks for Sharing! When I launch my WoodWorking/Turning/Maker TH-cam Channel, Router Inlays will certainly be a part of the adventure! I will be sure to acknowledge the clear and concise instructional Videos from you, for sure! Hope to join the Community Soon! Very Excited! Have A Super Week!.....Gus
Hi Brian, I've watched many of your videos and have to say that you're a great teacher!I've learned a lot from watching you and I'm 75 so old dogs "can" learn new tricks! LOL I don't know (yet) if it will work with a wood inlay but I used to make sterling silver jewelry and cut my own cabochons for each setting I made.Before trying to fit a cabochon into a setting a long piece of dental floss is laid across the setting before fitting the stone.If the stone is too tight you hold one end of the dental floss while pulling up on the other end.This pulls the cabochon back out of the setting. This may work with a wood inlay?? Thanks for this and all of your videos! Tom
Excellent tutorial. I am just getting started and haven't used a router before, however, your video has helped me understand more and encouraged me to give it a try. I fancy trying to add a Badger image to my bandsaw boxes. Many thanks
Superb! Pace is just right, neither too fast but nor too slow or boring. Well spoken.... but most importantly thought and delivery process is just OUTSTANDING (tells you the sequence of things to do, what is important to know, and in a methodical & precise manner!). Video quality is EXCELLENT (sound is not too bad either). My favorite part of this video is with the DETAILS - something that most presentations lack (and thus tire & frustrate the audience). I think that is the most important asset of Brian's presentation! Well done my friend!.... you got me glued... will watch your other videos. Many thanks!
Great video! Was trying to tell a buddy how to do it but had a hard time explaining. This video would have done it completely. One question I have for you. Why don't you use one of those flattening type bit to hog out the remaining inside? I think that is what I might do. Great vid. Subscribing now!😊😊😊
Thank you for that video! I building an Urn for my wife's ashes who succumbed to cancer in March. I wanted to create an attractive inlay in the lid. I've done wood work for many years but it was almost all very simple stuff. I'm a 1st class machinist by trade, (retired), and specialized in precision milling. If I had to do this in steel, I'd have no problem, (assuming I had access to a vertical milling machine). However, wood milling is very different and many of the techniques are worlds apart. I have purchased a Router kit, (Dewalt 2.75 HP with 1/2" & 1/4" collets and additional plunge base). I also wound up buying an inexpensive router table, a large assortment of bits, a router guide bushing set, a number of various size dovetail and round-over bits, and a dovetail jig. It's kind of funny because my wife had insisted that I not buy any expensive Urns. In fact, she wanted me to get the least expensive, standard plastic urn provided by the funeral home. I objected but after a number of attempts to change her mind, I agreed. I told her I would make one that would house her and our dear pet cat who died about 5 years ago. At this point I spent at least twice as much as I would have, had I bought an 'expensive urn', LOL. I'm sure I'll find other uses for the router tools so I can argue the justification from that POV. Anyway, I thought it would be easier to route a large rectangular shape (1/4" deep), into the lid of the urn using a router table. I was initially thinking of setting up a set of straight edge guides that would stop the lid as I moved it over a 2" facing bit to remove the material inside the inlay area. Of course, I would change to a smaller bit to achieve the 1/4" radius in the four corners. Please understand that I hadn't gone into any serious considerations regarding the logistics of doing it that way. Now that I'm a little closer to that stage of the urn, I can see all kinds of problems with trying to cut that inlay on a router table and after seeing your video, the idea of doing it that way is completely "off the table", (pardon the pun). Now, it appears that I'd be better off doing the entire inlay job with a plunge router and bushing guides, coupled with a template as you show here. Your video has certainly given me a decent idea of what I need to do. I have plenty of 'practice stock' which I used a lot of when I taught myself how to cut the dovetail joints I completed for the main box body. I'm not in a huge hurry and it's a good thing because I can see I'll be doing things quite slowly as I go along. Thanks again, Rich
@@zactaubman365 Thank you. In fact, I actually completed it on April 23 2020, (less than a month ago). It turned out very nice but it isn't "perfect" if one looks too closely. My late wife insisted that I not buy an Urn, especially an expensive Urn. Well, I didn't, but after I added up the cost for a variety of tools and Jigs, (in addition to the wood for the urn and 'practice' wood I needed to use for the hand carved pieces and setting up the dovetail cuts), I spent more than $650, lol.
Brian, thanks, this was an excellent video - the best video out there on doing sensible inlays. I used your technique to do some of my own inlays. Found Harbor Freight has a good price on the template guide.
I have a hexagon piece of plastic that I want to insert into wood. Would the template be the same size of the hexagon or bigger to account for the spacer of the inlay kit? Could u do a video on making a template for an object you already have which u want to inlay. Thanks. Your videos are so informative.
Template oversizing: Assuming the removable bushing on the router inlay kit is 9/16" and the router bit is 1/8", then the margin around the edge of the template is 7/32". I arrived at this number by subtracting the removable bushing diameter by the bit diameter (9/16" - 1/8" = 7/16") and then dividing that by 2 ( 7/16" / 2 = 7/32"). Note that this is a margin _around_ the template, so a 4" circle would require a template that is 4-7/16" in diameter ( 7/32" + 4" + 7/32")
Thanks - good, clear explanations. One question occurs to me. After routing the edge of the negative, would it make sense to switch from the inlay bit to a wider straight bit to clear out a large area such as the one you were demonstrating? Obviously nothing that would compromise the edges of a smaller or more intricate pattern, but only for wide areas.
Nice tip with the playing cards. Countless projects stop because someone thinks they need to spend 20-50 bucks at the hardware store, while some oversimplified solution sat quietly in a junk drawer.
Thank you so much for that very informative video.. I really really have always wanted to see how inlays were made as they can add such old world charm and beauty to any piece. Can you make a suggestion as to what would be a good first router..( not cheap but not over the top expensive.) a nice mid grade router that will last quite a few yeArs for a hobbyist.( not someone who will be doing inlay everyday.?Ps. Your son is adorable!:) Would it be easier with a router table or no?? Thanks again!
Any of the name brands should be good, but a small Porter Cable 690 would do the job. You do not need a lot of power for doing inlay. One big consideration for doing inlay, if you can afford it, is to get a plunge router or an extra plunge base. You can get away with doing inlay with a fixed base router, but it is really convenient to be able to plunge into the work. I have not seen router inlay done on a router table. I think I would prefer doing it by hand for better visibility.
Hi Brian great video and you explained the steps great. The only thing I would like to know is where do you get the bushing and bits and attachments for the small bits. I will send you a email tonight about this. thanks so much again.. stan m
Great video. I used your techniques to patch some holes in composite decking. I also owe myself a few dollars for forgetting to take off the spacer ring before cutting my first set of positives.
So if I wanted to use this technique for inlays with 90 degree corners, would I use the router for the majority, and clean it up with chisel set to remove the debris from corners themselves?
Nice clear video but I am still confused on how you match up the positive and negative with the use of the bushing spacer? You said to reinstall the spacer when preparing to cut the "negative" piece but won't this move the router bit in closer to the center thereby making the negative piece too tight to accept the positive piece? What am I missing here?
Actually, this is the way to go (reinstalling the bushing). Take for example a 4x4 square (that you cutout as your template). If you route the positive piece without the bushing and with the 1/8 bit, you will be cutting a 3 3/4 x 3 3/4 square because you remove an 1/8 on each side of the square. If you try to route the negative with the same piece you will actually be cutting out a 4x4 hole because the bit itself will follow the template that is why you need to reinstall the bushing that will allow the bit to shift to the center of the template an 1/8 of an inch to make it "perfect"... hope you understand Annony Mouse :-)
Annony Mouse What you wrote seems to make sense, but remember that when cutting the "positive" the bit will cut on the "inside of the bit" thus closer to the developing positive profile (making this piece smaller by the diameter of the bit) and further away from the template (the template is a negative too). When cutting the negative, the bit cuts to the "outside of the bit" making this cut-out bigger...too big, unless you re-install the bushing.
The bushings are machined to close tolerance to specific increments of thickness and diameters. Grab so scrap and try it and see for yourself. You need everything handed to you?
It hasn't happened to me yet but the 1/8 inch bits have a tendency to break, but Lee Valley has a guide kit that uses a 1/4 inch bit that cuts the same size as the 1/8 guide kit. I also use a DeWalt 611 plunge base router with a clear base and LED lights so I can see my progress. Using a full size router is overkill in my opinion.
The blooper at 15:45 had me laughing my ass off. This happens quite often with me especially when one is in a hurry. I could sense the frustration as soon as he dropped the positive piece into the negative. :)
If the positive is not too proud and I only need to take off a little bit, then I will use a card scraper followed by sanding. But there are other options: drum sander, if you have one available; power sander (belt or random-orbit); hand plane, if one is handy with planes.
new to this, I am thinking very much to doing something like this to my built in wardrobe, can you recommend a kit? Also if you know if they ship to the uk? Not kidding w ehave some things here which originate in the Usa but its modified to a sub standard level :(, milescraft jigs for example
Brilliant..TY. I will just add…modern wood glue, like Titebond, is immensely strong. Try it…a pea sized blob between wood. Once dry, you just try pulling it apart by hand!!! So when fitting an inlay you really don’t need it slathered in thick gopping glue. You’ll get less or zero squeeze out, and save money, by using a small amount as appropriate. All wood channels apply glue like jelly on toast, then clamp it until 95% of it has oozed down the outside of the piece. My 0.02.
Bro I will die in the 14 15th of this month just believing in jesus an God is not enough. What out for a guy called Gary he will be my end times I am back I promise I died an jesus sent me back to prove mum and. Can live in peace. If. The tables are reset they boulder have I was there last before a reset. But I failed them. Ytc peace pray
Funny how the algorithm works, This was one of the first inlay videos I liked and downloaded way back in 2011, and it pops back up on my suggested list today. Still one of the best demonstrations on using the inlay kit.
Brian, your vid couldn't have been better! Your timing and, especially, your dry sense of humor added to a superb instructional piece of work. My inlay set just arrived in the mail - thanx!
Great instructional video Brian! I've had an inlay bushing/bit for a score of years and have never used it. When I do get ready to tackle an inlay project I'll definitely refer back to this vid. Great instruction and tips!
I have seen many, many, woodworking videos and I must saw you are the ONLY person I have seen use a chisel in the way it was intended. Congrats, And thanks for the vid.
Thankyou Brian, for your beneficial & clear Lessons. Chris From . . . Norwich, England
A few years ago, I discovered your series "At the lathe". Over the following several weeks you taught me everything I needed to know about wood turning to feel comfortable at the lathe and well equipped to continue learning by experimentation. Thank you for that. This video is another excellent example of your teaching capabilities, so thank you once again. Off to find the mentioned second video in this series. Thanks always for sharing. Cheers from BC.
Wow Brian! The Production & Editing was Superbly done! I thoroughly enjoyed the entire process! Thanks for Sharing! When I launch my WoodWorking/Turning/Maker TH-cam Channel, Router Inlays will certainly be a part of the adventure! I will be sure to acknowledge the clear and concise instructional Videos from you, for sure! Hope to join the Community Soon! Very Excited! Have A Super Week!.....Gus
Hi Brian,
I've watched many of your videos and have to say that you're a great teacher!I've learned a lot from watching you and I'm 75 so old dogs "can" learn new tricks! LOL
I don't know (yet) if it will work with a wood inlay but I used to make sterling silver jewelry and cut my own cabochons for each setting I made.Before trying to fit a cabochon into a setting a long piece of dental floss is laid across the setting before fitting the stone.If the stone is too tight you hold one end of the dental floss while pulling up on the other end.This pulls the cabochon back out of the setting.
This may work with a wood inlay??
Thanks for this and all of your videos!
Tom
Excellent tutorial. I am just getting started and haven't used a router before, however, your video has helped me understand more and encouraged me to give it a try. I fancy trying to add a Badger image to my bandsaw boxes. Many thanks
Superb!
Pace is just right, neither too fast but nor too slow or boring.
Well spoken.... but most importantly thought and delivery process is just OUTSTANDING (tells you the sequence of things to do, what is important to know, and in a methodical & precise manner!).
Video quality is EXCELLENT (sound is not too bad either).
My favorite part of this video is with the DETAILS - something that most presentations lack (and thus tire & frustrate the audience). I think that is the most important asset of Brian's presentation! Well done my friend!.... you got me glued... will watch your other videos. Many thanks!
Thank you for taking the time to make and share this video with us. I'm going to have to try my hand at it now.
Great video! It explains the process clearly and concisely, not too much info, not too little, just right.
Thanks!
Great video! Was trying to tell a buddy how to do it but had a hard time explaining. This video would have done it completely.
One question I have for you. Why don't you use one of those flattening type bit to hog out the remaining inside? I think that is what I might do.
Great vid. Subscribing now!😊😊😊
Thank you for that video! I building an Urn for my wife's ashes who succumbed to cancer in March. I wanted to create an attractive inlay in the lid. I've done wood work for many years but it was almost all very simple stuff. I'm a 1st class machinist by trade, (retired), and specialized in precision milling. If I had to do this in steel, I'd have no problem, (assuming I had access to a vertical milling machine).
However, wood milling is very different and many of the techniques are worlds apart. I have purchased a Router kit, (Dewalt 2.75 HP with 1/2" & 1/4" collets and additional plunge base). I also wound up buying an inexpensive router table, a large assortment of bits, a router guide bushing set, a number of various size dovetail and round-over bits, and a dovetail jig.
It's kind of funny because my wife had insisted that I not buy any expensive Urns. In fact, she wanted me to get the least expensive, standard plastic urn provided by the funeral home. I objected but after a number of attempts to change her mind, I agreed. I told her I would make one that would house her and our dear pet cat who died about 5 years ago.
At this point I spent at least twice as much as I would have, had I bought an 'expensive urn', LOL. I'm sure I'll find other uses for the router tools so I can argue the justification from that POV. Anyway, I thought it would be easier to route a large rectangular shape (1/4" deep), into the lid of the urn using a router table.
I was initially thinking of setting up a set of straight edge guides that would stop the lid as I moved it over a 2" facing bit to remove the material inside the inlay area. Of course, I would change to a smaller bit to achieve the 1/4" radius in the four corners. Please understand that I hadn't gone into any serious considerations regarding the logistics of doing it that way. Now that I'm a little closer to that stage of the urn, I can see all kinds of problems with trying to cut that inlay on a router table and after seeing your video, the idea of doing it that way is completely "off the table", (pardon the pun).
Now, it appears that I'd be better off doing the entire inlay job with a plunge router and bushing guides, coupled with a template as you show here. Your video has certainly given me a decent idea of what I need to do. I have plenty of 'practice stock' which I used a lot of when I taught myself how to cut the dovetail joints I completed for the main box body.
I'm not in a huge hurry and it's a good thing because I can see I'll be doing things quite slowly as I go along.
Thanks again,
Rich
I just watched Brian's "inlay" video, but I wish to give you my condolences for your loss. Best of luck with her urn.
@@zactaubman365 Thank you. In fact, I actually completed it on April 23 2020, (less than a month ago). It turned out very nice but it isn't "perfect" if one looks too closely. My late wife insisted that I not buy an Urn, especially an expensive Urn. Well, I didn't, but after I added up the cost for a variety of tools and Jigs, (in addition to the wood for the urn and 'practice' wood I needed to use for the hand carved pieces and setting up the dovetail cuts), I spent more than $650, lol.
Thank you for the time and effort you put in to make this video.
Very good. The issue is all the effort already put into the piece you are inlaying.....if it doesn’t go as planned.
The most simple and easy explanation I’ve seen yet. Btw. Love the comedy bit with the kid at the beginning.😊
That was nice to see your son do the introduction, He sound like my 7years. Thanks for the video,
Brian, thanks, this was an excellent video - the best video out there on doing sensible inlays. I used your technique to do some of my own inlays. Found Harbor Freight has a good price on the template guide.
I have a hexagon piece of plastic that I want to insert into wood. Would the template be the same size of the hexagon or bigger to account for the spacer of the inlay kit?
Could u do a video on making a template for an object you already have which u want to inlay.
Thanks. Your videos are so informative.
Great job explaining this. You made East to understand. Now I just have to try it.👍
Template oversizing:
Assuming the removable bushing on the router inlay kit is 9/16" and the router bit is 1/8", then the margin around the edge of the template is 7/32". I arrived at this number by subtracting the removable bushing diameter by the bit diameter (9/16" - 1/8" = 7/16") and then dividing that by 2 ( 7/16" / 2 = 7/32").
Note that this is a margin _around_ the template, so a 4" circle would require a template that is 4-7/16" in diameter ( 7/32" + 4" + 7/32")
great video Brian ,very well presented ,
I like it very much,but tell me, what projects can i create,or where can i found these?
Great work! You explained everything clearly and succinctly. Pleasure to watch.
Now you have given me some great inspiration to use my new plunge base Bosch. Just gotta get the bushing kit.:-)
Great tutorial! One of the best I've seen. Thanks, Brian!
Which plunge router and inlay kit would you recommend and where to buy. Thanks for the video
Hey Brian excellent video. I'm going to try this. THANKS.
Informative and easy to follow. Great job.
Thanks - good, clear explanations. One question occurs to me. After routing the edge of the negative, would it make sense to switch from the inlay bit to a wider straight bit to clear out a large area such as the one you were demonstrating? Obviously nothing that would compromise the edges of a smaller or more intricate pattern, but only for wide areas.
Use a length of fishing line under the positive to help pull it out when sanding the final fit.
Thanks for the free class on woodworking, I owe you bro!
Very good, the best explanation that I found in youtube.
Always wanted to learn this. Thanks Brian this was the best explained easy to fallow video I have watched. Great Job
Excellent tutorial; Thank you Brian !! Do you think it may be possible to inlay a similar shape using my router in the table ? Greetings from England
I would like to see how you laid-up the bubinga veneer tabletop from the opening teaser
thank you so much for a superb fantastic super clear instructional video for a newbie like me
Nice tip with the playing cards. Countless projects stop because someone thinks they need to spend 20-50 bucks at the hardware store, while some oversimplified solution sat quietly in a junk drawer.
YES SIR. GOOD WORK VERY USEFUL WELL PRESENTED..AM IN N.S. W. AUSTRALIA.. DAVID..
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this very clear and informative video. I am eager to try router inlays and this is a great reference tool.
Loved the intro.
Wow! You made that look really simple!!! Great camera angles made each step easy to see!
Great video Brian Thank you
Thank you so much for that very informative video.. I really really have always wanted to see how inlays were made as they can add such old world charm and beauty to any piece. Can you make a suggestion as to what would be a good first router..( not cheap but not over the top expensive.) a nice mid grade router that will last quite a few yeArs for a hobbyist.( not someone who will be doing inlay everyday.?Ps. Your son is adorable!:) Would it be easier with a router table or no?? Thanks again!
Any of the name brands should be good, but a small Porter Cable 690 would do the job. You do not need a lot of power for doing inlay. One big consideration for doing inlay, if you can afford it, is to get a plunge router or an extra plunge base. You can get away with doing inlay with a fixed base router, but it is really convenient to be able to plunge into the work.
I have not seen router inlay done on a router table. I think I would prefer doing it by hand for better visibility.
Hi Brian great video and you explained the steps great. The only thing I would like to know is where do you get the bushing and bits and attachments for the small bits. I will send you a email tonight about this. thanks so much again.. stan m
Thank you that was awesome i been trying to learn how to inlay looking at other videos but they don't explain the way you did thank's again am a fan 👍
Great video. I used your techniques to patch some holes in composite decking. I also owe myself a few dollars for forgetting to take off the spacer ring before cutting my first set of positives.
Cool idea!
Exellent demo! Very helpful. I've always wanted to give this a try.
So if I wanted to use this technique for inlays with 90 degree corners, would I use the router for the majority, and clean it up with chisel set to remove the debris from corners themselves?
thank you mr Havens. i learned a lod from you. may God bless you
Very good video.
Nice work and very informative.
Nice job, this was the best video I’ve seen so far on inlays. Have you ever done more intricate inlays? I really want to try some scrollwork.
Nobody cares. Douchebag
Excellent video. Thanks.
excellent... thank you for taking time with the graphics to explain stuff... subscribing now :)
Nice work
Cool video!
Good presentation!
Good info. Complete pro tutorial. Tnx
Brilliant! Thanks for posting.
Nice clear video but I am still confused on how you match up the positive and negative with the use of the bushing spacer? You said to reinstall the spacer when preparing to cut the "negative" piece but won't this move the router bit in closer to the center thereby making the negative piece too tight to accept the positive piece? What am I missing here?
Actually, this is the way to go (reinstalling the bushing).
Take for example a 4x4 square (that you cutout as your template). If you route the positive piece without the bushing and with the 1/8 bit, you will be cutting a 3 3/4 x 3 3/4 square because you remove an 1/8 on each side of the square. If you try to route the negative with the same piece you will actually be cutting out a 4x4 hole because the bit itself will follow the template that is why you need to reinstall the bushing that will allow the bit to shift to the center of the template an 1/8 of an inch to make it "perfect"... hope you understand Annony Mouse :-)
Annony Mouse What you wrote seems to make sense, but remember that when cutting the "positive" the bit will cut on the "inside of the bit" thus closer to the developing positive profile (making this piece smaller by the diameter of the bit) and further away from the template (the template is a negative too). When cutting the negative, the bit cuts to the "outside of the bit" making this cut-out bigger...too big, unless you re-install the bushing.
Eric D. V
The bushings are machined to close tolerance to specific increments of thickness and diameters. Grab so scrap and try it and see for yourself. You need everything handed to you?
It hasn't happened to me yet but the 1/8 inch bits have a tendency to break, but Lee Valley has a guide kit that uses a 1/4 inch bit that cuts the same size as the 1/8 guide kit. I also use a DeWalt 611 plunge base router with a clear base and LED lights so I can see my progress. Using a full size router is overkill in my opinion.
thank you for sharing your knowledge
Excellent tip. Thanks for sharing!
Great video...
would it work with veneer too?
Very cute. Thanks for the vid.
Super orientation, thank you.
Thanks for the info, It helped a lot.
The blooper at 15:45 had me laughing my ass off. This happens quite often with me especially when one is in a hurry. I could sense the frustration as soon as he dropped the positive piece into the negative. :)
nice video, thanks for the info
What did you use to level the inlay?
If the positive is not too proud and I only need to take off a little bit, then I will use a card scraper followed by sanding. But there are other options: drum sander, if you have one available; power sander (belt or random-orbit); hand plane, if one is handy with planes.
new to this, I am thinking very much to doing something like this to my built in wardrobe, can you recommend a kit? Also if you know if they ship to the uk? Not kidding w ehave some things here which originate in the Usa but its modified to a sub standard level :(, milescraft jigs for example
How thick of an inlay can you do with that set up?
I think I have the same inlay kit
thanks
John
As thick as the length of your mounted bit plus the maximum plunge depth of your router. Like DUH!
Brilliant..TY. I will just add…modern wood glue, like Titebond, is immensely strong. Try it…a pea sized blob between wood. Once dry, you just try pulling it apart by hand!!! So when fitting an inlay you really don’t need it slathered in thick gopping glue. You’ll get less or zero squeeze out, and save money, by using a small amount as appropriate. All wood channels apply glue like jelly on toast, then clamp it until 95% of it has oozed down the outside of the piece. My 0.02.
Very informative video; thanks and I subscribed...cheers...rr
If you ever get tired of that boy, give him to me. All my kids are grown and life isn't the same.
you are the best thanks
Good tutorial. Thank you.
A cute mini-david-marks :)
por que no lo pueden traducir al español
And WALLAH!
Thanks for the video. But what is it lol
I did it with Woodprix.
painful
Positive/negative = male/female
Bro I will die in the 14 15th of this month just believing in jesus an God is not enough. What out for a guy called Gary he will be my end times I am back I promise I died an jesus sent me back to prove mum and. Can live in peace. If. The tables are reset they boulder have I was there last before a reset. But I failed them. Ytc peace pray