If you enter the setting mode, you can change the setting "SL2" from the default "0000" to "0001" which will allow the unit to switch from Celsius to Fahrenheit. You can get the documentation here: www.fmfranklin.com.au/products/data/rkc/c100set.pdf or you can get another one here: www.rkcinst.co.jp/english/pdf_manual/imnzc22e1.pdf I have both. the first document allows you to write your settings in. I made my own spreadsheet. I am using the PID to heat a metal foundry to melt aluminum, so I am using a type K thermocouple (code K05) that goes from 0C to 999C. The thermocouple supplied with the PID C-100 only goes from 0-400C for those who watch this.
Hello I have AOB508 economy digital indicating controller the temperature inside bio-gas reactor is 10 decrease less than the temperature that shown on the digital screen. Can you kindly tell me how to correct this. Thank you
if you're melting glass, in say a crucible, it's a furnace. the glory hole is used to reheat the piece of glass you're making, and is just an on/off device. no need for a thermocouple or controller on a glory hole (glories heat around 2600 F, sometimes a little hotter). I'm a glassblower by the way. just an FYI, not trying to be snooty.
on the control side 16-14 gauge wire should be fine. On the relay supply side it should be rated for the amperage you are using. 30amp- 10 gauge, 40amp- 8 gauge, 50amp- 6 gauge.... and don't over load the relay.
Hi Kevin, A few remarks. I bought the same K-type thermocouple with the ceramic tubes. It was advertised on ebay as 1372 centigrade. I don't think you can use it for melting glass above 2000 C. I tested the thermocouple with a blow torch like you did. But I only heated the tip and did not break the ceramic parts :-) With my torch I could not get it above 1050 C but the metal turned orange in colour and you can expect it to melt a a certain point. When you read the wikipedia page for k-type thermocouples, you will see that the chromel-alumel alloys used to fabricate the thermocouples melt at: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromel: 1420 C (2588 F) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alumel: 1399 C (2550 F) In the video, I saw that your PID controller is of model C100FK02. FK02 has a temperature range of 0-400 C Did you find a way to reprogram the controller to get above the 400 C mark?
I've put this project on a back burner for now. I am keeping an eye open for a controller that will ramp the temperature for annealing the glass. On and off I've been building a blast furnace that will reach 2300 degrees for melting glass as time and money permits. Good info on Wikipedia!
If you really want to save money, don't just try to go el cheapo on the building materials. This site lets you calculate the amount of heat leaking away through the insulation material: www.engineeringtoolbox.com/conductive-heat-transfer-d_428.html Scroll a bit down to the "Conductive Heat Transfer Calculator" What I know of melting glass is that you need to leave the furnace on for quite a long time to spread the heat evenly through the material. Dartington Glass in Devon England leaves the furnace on for more than a day before they start taking crystal from the melt. A material like 2" aluminium silicate blanket around the fire bricks will save you a lot of energy!
Living and learning the hard way. When I started this project, well over a year ago, I was thinking $200 to $300 dollars. I'm closer to $1,000 now and still slow but sure buying materials as I go. The down times, when I'm broke, allow for more time and research, along with help and suggestions from others, Like yourself! I'll still be a head of the game dollar wise. To buy a glass melting furnace of the size I'm making would cost over $5,000. The inside of my chamber is 18"X18"X 18", but I've been rethinking this to add more insulation on the inside along with the blankets around the outside. I hope to get back on this with more free time in later 2018.
The REX-C100 can detect temperatures from 0°C to 1300°C (2372 F). It can measure temperatures from 0°C to 400°C in the panel mount 48×48 package. It can also be used to ramp the temperature up or down: www.google.com/search?q=automate+Ramp+temperature+with+REX+c100+PID&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS910US912&oq=automate+Ramp+temperature+with+REX+c100+PID&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRirAjIHCAMQIRirAtIBCTMxMjY5ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 @@kevincronin60181
you can ramp it with a little moding and a raspberry pi. if you want to ramp it with 4 ºC/MIN, can you wire the "SET" button and arrow "UP" button, to two transister, which you control with a adroino or raspberry. then you loop "SET" "UP" "SET" "15 sec pause" 580 times to get from 20 ºC to 600 ºC with 4 ºC/MIN. i thinck you get the point. here is a video on how to code the raspberry to send the signal th-cam.com/video/9uot9uIC5CA/w-d-xo.html
I am trying to figure out how to ramp the temp over a time periord Example: Hold it at 975 Fahrenheit , then when ready, slowly (turn on Annealing of glass) lower the temperature over an 8 hours down to 375, then shut off .
ve had inuf, thats the 9th or 10 th vid am watchin, nobody knows or cant really explain pid settings, useless. getting manual and readin it is the best and only option
If you enter the setting mode, you can change the setting "SL2" from the default "0000" to "0001" which will allow the unit to switch from Celsius to Fahrenheit. You can get the documentation here: www.fmfranklin.com.au/products/data/rkc/c100set.pdf or you can get another one here: www.rkcinst.co.jp/english/pdf_manual/imnzc22e1.pdf I have both. the first document allows you to write your settings in. I made my own spreadsheet. I am using the PID to heat a metal foundry to melt aluminum, so I am using a type K thermocouple (code K05) that goes from 0C to 999C. The thermocouple supplied with the PID C-100 only goes from 0-400C for those who watch this.
Hello
I have AOB508 economy digital indicating controller
the temperature inside bio-gas reactor is 10 decrease less than the temperature that shown on the digital screen. Can you kindly tell me how to correct this.
Thank you
Good info to know and keep handy!
I have no idea.
Hello
Is it possible to perform temperature calibration and what is the command?
if you're melting glass, in say a crucible, it's a furnace. the glory hole is used to reheat the piece of glass you're making, and is just an on/off device. no need for a thermocouple or controller on a glory hole (glories heat around 2600 F, sometimes a little hotter). I'm a glassblower by the way. just an FYI, not trying to be snooty.
Building one to cool / anneal the glass after blowing.
I have one that is missing pin 5? the diagram on the side is different, I can not find any info on it.
Hi - Please , Possible use with my Kiln 980° in 6 or 8 Hour ? Thanks
I aws trying to step down the temp over time to make an annealing Kiln. No luck
Hi, What size of awg wire do you use for connections?
on the control side 16-14 gauge wire should be fine. On the relay supply side it should be rated for the amperage you are using. 30amp- 10 gauge, 40amp- 8 gauge, 50amp- 6 gauge.... and don't over load the relay.
Hello, I try to install my PID Controller Rex c100 but only three flash that working 1 is missing. how solve it Kevin?
Have no idea what a "Three Flash" is??? and what a 1 is??
Did you find out if you where able to ramp?
Not with this controller. Would have to reset temp every time to lower temp.
www.google.com/search?q=automate+Ramp+temperature+with+REX+c100+PID&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS910US912&oq=automate+Ramp+temperature+with+REX+c100+PID&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRirAjIHCAMQIRirAtIBCTMxMjY5ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
do you have the manual?
This is a old Video I did years ago. I recall someone posting a link in here. You'll have to search for it. Sorry!
Hi Kevin,
A few remarks. I bought the same K-type thermocouple with the ceramic tubes. It was advertised on ebay as 1372 centigrade. I don't think you can use it for melting glass above 2000 C.
I tested the thermocouple with a blow torch like you did. But I only heated the tip and did not break the ceramic parts :-)
With my torch I could not get it above 1050 C but the metal turned orange in colour and you can expect it to melt a a certain point.
When you read the wikipedia page for k-type thermocouples, you will see that the chromel-alumel alloys used to fabricate the thermocouples melt at:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromel: 1420 C (2588 F)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alumel: 1399 C (2550 F)
In the video, I saw that your PID controller is of model C100FK02.
FK02 has a temperature range of 0-400 C
Did you find a way to reprogram the controller to get above the 400 C mark?
I've put this project on a back burner for now. I am keeping an eye open for a controller that will ramp the temperature for annealing the glass. On and off I've been building a blast furnace that will reach 2300 degrees for melting glass as time and money permits.
Good info on Wikipedia!
If you really want to save money, don't just try to go el cheapo on the building materials.
This site lets you calculate the amount of heat leaking away through the insulation material:
www.engineeringtoolbox.com/conductive-heat-transfer-d_428.html
Scroll a bit down to the "Conductive Heat Transfer Calculator"
What I know of melting glass is that you need to leave the furnace on for quite a long time to spread the heat evenly through the material. Dartington Glass in Devon England leaves the furnace on for more than a day before they start taking crystal from the melt.
A material like 2" aluminium silicate blanket around the fire bricks will save you a lot of energy!
Living and learning the hard way. When I started this project, well over a year ago, I was thinking $200 to $300 dollars. I'm closer to $1,000 now and still slow but sure buying materials as I go.
The down times, when I'm broke, allow for more time and research, along with help and suggestions from others, Like yourself!
I'll still be a head of the game dollar wise. To buy a glass melting furnace of the size I'm making would cost over $5,000.
The inside of my chamber is 18"X18"X 18", but I've been rethinking this to add more insulation on the inside along with the blankets around the outside. I hope to get back on this with more free time in later 2018.
The REX-C100 can detect temperatures from 0°C to 1300°C (2372 F). It can measure temperatures from 0°C to 400°C in the panel mount 48×48 package. It can also be used to ramp the temperature up or down: www.google.com/search?q=automate+Ramp+temperature+with+REX+c100+PID&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS910US912&oq=automate+Ramp+temperature+with+REX+c100+PID&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRirAjIHCAMQIRirAtIBCTMxMjY5ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
@@kevincronin60181
where you connect the heater?
Heating elements connect to the digital relay controller.
you can ramp it with a little moding and a raspberry pi. if you want to ramp it with 4 ºC/MIN, can you wire the "SET" button and arrow "UP" button, to two transister, which you control with a adroino or raspberry. then you loop "SET" "UP" "SET" "15 sec pause" 580 times to get from 20 ºC to 600 ºC with 4 ºC/MIN. i thinck you get the point.
here is a video on how to code the raspberry to send the signal th-cam.com/video/9uot9uIC5CA/w-d-xo.html
I am trying to figure out how to ramp the temp over a time periord Example: Hold it at 975 Fahrenheit , then when ready, slowly (turn on Annealing of glass) lower the temperature over an 8 hours down to 375, then shut off .
How much smoke does the controller contain?
??? Smoke ???
none
Would that be the MAGIC smoke? - You can't tell unless you let it put then the the PID won''t work any more.
Thermocouple, not thermocoupler
And it's Pee-eye-dee controller, Not "pit" or "pid" Sounds like Bob Villa when you say "pid for the thermocoupler"
That pid controller is only good for 400C
ve had inuf, thats the 9th or 10 th vid am watchin, nobody knows or cant really explain pid settings, useless. getting manual and readin it is the best and only option
gah that strobe is going to give me a seizure!
Thats all I had handy at the time.
THERMOCOUPLE...NOT THERMOCOUPLER...