Just a quick thought you might want to take some old chain and cut in say 6 or 7 inch lengths slide on a piece of cold roll and space about an inch apart. Take the rod and mount to the front of the cutter so it helps keep flying chunks from flailing out and then to to keep those chunks in the cutter to chop up as your mowing. It's not fun getting pelted by hunks of sticks or if in a field where cows been and have a wet pie flung at ya!! Ask me how I know!?? Lol! Looks like a great piece be looking forward to see how tough it's gonna take before it shears a drive pin.
For your lower 3 point arms, instead of limiting the range of motion with the chains, you might try having a sway block mounted to the frame of the tractor that would limit how far the arm could move toward the center. When you have an implement (rotary mower or blade) attached, the blocks would limit how far the arms could move toward the middle and the implement would keep the other side from being able to hit the tire. When you don't have an implement mounted, a tarp strap (bungee) would keep the arms from hitting the tires. It would work the same as the chains but acting in reverse. Just be sure to leave a little bit of slack so that you can hook the implement up. Thanks for the video
Turn buckles would work better then the chains. It will allow you to stabilize the bush hog in the center of rear wheels with little to no side to side play.
Have you ever thought about using a cub cadet to build a a scaled down version of the big versatile or articulating tractor? You know the ones that doesn’t have steering thru the wheels but hydronics pivot it in the center allowing it to turn? Or maybe build a front end loader for the tractor you building the bus hog for? I think it would be cool if you modified your dozer blade in look like a real dozer blade. I’ve been a welder and fabricator all my life and live watching your builds. But I think it would make the mini dozer perfect with a blade that has the contour and the ends with the flared edges just like the real dozer has I love the mini dozer but the blade is the only part that in my opinion was out of place as far as comparing it to the real dozer blade. Just wondering because you’re finish with the bush hog and we gonna need something else to watch 😂
All great ideas. The articulating cub cadets have been done many times by other builders. Most with 4WD. As for the dozer, there are many blade shapes, but the really big ones have that flare at the ends like you said. That would look cool, too.
I mentioned one thing a few videos ago and you answered saying it’s being changed which it apparently needs as we can see at the end. One thing that only became apparent is the relative size comparison between the tractor and the deck. Hopefully the tractor has the PTO power to spin the blades. Weight isn’t an issue. If needed you’ll make a weight rack for it.
The tractor should have no problem running this mower as these tractors routinely came with 42, 44, 48 and even 50 inch mower decks. I have used an identical (except for rear PTO) tractor with a 48 inch deck for years. To your point, however, a bush hog is a different beast than a belly mounted mower. I'll demonstrate it's operation when it's done but we won't have any real grass to cut until later this spring.
The larger blade will have more angular momentum (think like a flywheel) so will have some energy storage, while the smaller blades have very little. Size of the blades is almost irrelevant, it's the work being done that matters, and that's overcoming the resistance of the grass to the rotation of the blades. You might think that a larger diameter blade would require more torque to rotate to a given speed, but remember, it has a higher blade tip speed than a smaller blade for the same rpm. For the same tip speed, it is geared down, providing the needed increase in torque. #appliedphysics #engineering
Another flat bar that hooks up down where you had the chain and run it back to where you hit the bush hog up on one side only Zahl you need to stabilize the whole thing
Question regarding the top link attachment point on the mower itself. Is there a pivot bracket that would allow for the top link to swing both above and below the mower without causing additional stress on the PTO?
With the weight of the bush hog, is there a need for the rear wheel weights? I feel like that is just adding un needed weight over the fulcrum. I think youll need counterweight at the front
There were never any such implements. I've seen the PTO used to drive a grain elevator or a corn sheller or, more for fun at a tractor show, to drive an ice cream maker. But nobody actually built any attachments. I think the PTO was there originally hoping after market companies would develop implements maybe? I've also heard (but don't know for a fact) that the rear PTO qualified the Cub Cadet for some sort of farm equipment write off that would not be applicable to just a garden tractor.
frank a beautiful job as always but coming from some one that knows nothing about that tractor or the brush hog you built , it looks like it needs or should be on a bigger tractor. more H.P. and weight .
I do my own. This particular tractor got a rebuilt engine and some mechanical work but not an actual restoration, per se. I do have 10 restored and running tractors, several of which are true frame-up restorations.
Please please please change your dragging strumming guitar music . That is a suggestion from me please change and get a more upbeat introduction. Your build is absolutely wonderful I think that this the most practical build yet. A little counterweight and you are set.
frank those chains length changes when the arms are up or down.
Hey Frank I know you will work out all the problems and get it working just fine.
I like your music at your opening and closing, good choice!
If it doesn’t have a live pto, an overrunning clutch may be necessary.
Looks like a factory attachment frank, beautiful job!!!
Just a quick thought you might want to take some old chain and cut in say 6 or 7 inch lengths slide on a piece of cold roll and space about an inch apart. Take the rod and mount to the front of the cutter so it helps keep flying chunks from flailing out and then to to keep those chunks in the cutter to chop up as your mowing. It's not fun getting pelted by hunks of sticks or if in a field where cows been and have a wet pie flung at ya!! Ask me how I know!?? Lol! Looks like a great piece be looking forward to see how tough it's gonna take before it shears a drive pin.
Probably will be a future enhancement.
I really enjoy all your projects. Your editing has really came a long ways. Be blessed and stay healthy to do these things.
For your lower 3 point arms, instead of limiting the range of motion with the chains, you might try having a sway block mounted to the frame of the tractor that would limit how far the arm could move toward the center. When you have an implement (rotary mower or blade) attached, the blocks would limit how far the arms could move toward the middle and the implement would keep the other side from being able to hit the tire. When you don't have an implement mounted, a tarp strap (bungee) would keep the arms from hitting the tires. It would work the same as the chains but acting in reverse. Just be sure to leave a little bit of slack so that you can hook the implement up.
Thanks for the video
Turn buckles would work better then the chains. It will allow you to stabilize the bush hog in the center of rear wheels with little to no side to side play.
I would bend the runners up on the rear like the front or when you go to backup mowing there going to dig in, at least that's how I use my mower.
Hmm, good point. too late for that now, I cut them too short to do that. Hopefully, the tail wheel will prevent that from happening.
Have you ever thought about using a cub cadet to build a a scaled down version of the big versatile or articulating tractor? You know the ones that doesn’t have steering thru the wheels but hydronics pivot it in the center allowing it to turn? Or maybe build a front end loader for the tractor you building the bus hog for? I think it would be cool if you modified your dozer blade in look like a real dozer blade. I’ve been a welder and fabricator all my life and live watching your builds. But I think it would make the mini dozer perfect with a blade that has the contour and the ends with the flared edges just like the real dozer has I love the mini dozer but the blade is the only part that in my opinion was out of place as far as comparing it to the real dozer blade. Just wondering because you’re finish with the bush hog and we gonna need something else to watch 😂
All great ideas. The articulating cub cadets have been done many times by other builders. Most with 4WD. As for the dozer, there are many blade shapes, but the really big ones have that flare at the ends like you said. That would look cool, too.
As a former drag racer I love to see some wheelies, but I’m sure you’ll want to be able to steer it, so front weights may be needed.
Episode 16. Two weeks. It's hilarious. Yes, front weights are on the list.
My tractor came with a Bundgy cord between the rear arms. Possibly you could do something like that connected up to the Top Link bracket?
I mentioned one thing a few videos ago and you answered saying it’s being changed which it apparently needs as we can see at the end.
One thing that only became apparent is the relative size comparison between the tractor and the deck. Hopefully the tractor has the PTO power to spin the blades. Weight isn’t an issue. If needed you’ll make a weight rack for it.
The tractor should have no problem running this mower as these tractors routinely came with 42, 44, 48 and even 50 inch mower decks. I have used an identical (except for rear PTO) tractor with a 48 inch deck for years. To your point, however, a bush hog is a different beast than a belly mounted mower. I'll demonstrate it's operation when it's done but we won't have any real grass to cut until later this spring.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048
I’m not an engineer but a 48” blade will take much more power to spin than 3 smaller blades on a mower deck.
#physics
The larger blade will have more angular momentum (think like a flywheel) so will have some energy storage, while the smaller blades have very little. Size of the blades is almost irrelevant, it's the work being done that matters, and that's overcoming the resistance of the grass to the rotation of the blades. You might think that a larger diameter blade would require more torque to rotate to a given speed, but remember, it has a higher blade tip speed than a smaller blade for the same rpm. For the same tip speed, it is geared down, providing the needed increase in torque. #appliedphysics #engineering
Look at the hitch of a international 633 for the stab chain
Very nice work. You’re doing well.
Maybe a turnbuckle with two rods instead of chains to stabilize the lift arms. That's how my Kabota hitch is rigged.
Still need a better attachment point. I think I solved it, you'll see in a few weeks.
Another flat bar that hooks up down where you had the chain and run it back to where you hit the bush hog up on one side only Zahl you need to stabilize the whole thing
I’m sorry this phone does not understand Redneck
Just like your work
Question regarding the top link attachment point on the mower itself. Is there a pivot bracket that would allow for the top link to swing both above and below the mower without causing additional stress on the PTO?
Yes.
Any tractor I've aver seen has had the lower arms connected together, with a little bit of slack. Hope that helps
None of my other tractors (a pair of Kubota BX's and a Ford 2000) are connected together. All are attached at a central point.
With the weight of the bush hog, is there a need for the rear wheel weights? I feel like that is just adding un needed weight over the fulcrum. I think youll need counterweight at the front
Yeah, you are right. No harm, just decorative really.
Is is supposed to be a little wider so it mows the tractors tracks
Yep!
So question for you, what implement did the cub cadet have available that used the rear PTO, but didn’t need a 3 point connection?
There were never any such implements. I've seen the PTO used to drive a grain elevator or a corn sheller or, more for fun at a tractor show, to drive an ice cream maker. But nobody actually built any attachments. I think the PTO was there originally hoping after market companies would develop implements maybe? I've also heard (but don't know for a fact) that the rear PTO qualified the Cub Cadet for some sort of farm equipment write off that would not be applicable to just a garden tractor.
Well, whatever the reason was it worked out really well for you, and for all of us who are enjoying watching this build.
frank a beautiful job as always but coming from some one that knows nothing about that tractor or the brush hog you built , it looks like it needs or should be on a bigger tractor. more H.P. and weight .
Do you restore your cub cadets or have them done?
I do my own. This particular tractor got a rebuilt engine and some mechanical work but not an actual restoration, per se. I do have 10 restored and running tractors, several of which are true frame-up restorations.
No need for the music. Verry annoying.
Yes the music is annoying but not as much as that awful draggy guitar intro. Please help him understand, please.
Please please please change your dragging strumming guitar music . That is a suggestion from me please change and get a more upbeat introduction. Your build is absolutely wonderful I think that this the most practical build yet. A little counterweight and you are set.