Dude! I just plugged your 4mm nozzle profile into Cura to see what happens, and got the best print I've ever had! The layer lines are barely visible, on a SILK GOLD! I haven't even tried the 2mm nozzle profile yet! You just took so many hours of tinkering and research and frustration out of the process for me! You're truly the best 3D printing channel on TH-cam!
You are the best printing channel I have found I can get my FDM printer to print like my resin printer just from watching your videos. Thank you so much.
You sir changed my life. You’re the best advisor out there. And your products are great!!! Already purchased several terrains from Fat Dragon and it’s amazing!!!!!
So this video is great, and the profile is fantastic, but there's some missing info that's a major oversight. You HAVE to go into machine settings in Cura and change your nozzle size to 0.2, otherwise Cura will OVERRIDE line quality settings, reverting them back to 0.4 resulting in a mess of plastic leaking out from the heater block due to increased pressure behind the hot end. This is such an important thing to mention that I'm stupefied it wasn't brought up at all. As a relative newbie I loaded this profile in and immediately did a test print. When it looked to be working, I left for two hours. When I came back everything had gone to shit and I had to spend over an hour cleaning my hot end assembly and replacing tubing/nozzles.
im pretty sure the issue youre raising is a cura 4.4 issue. This didnt used to happen in cura 4.0; which is what this video is designed around. Check the version of the cura software you are using. In his more recent videos from 5th December, he goes through how 4.4 over-rides nozel settings if you dont re-set it in the pull down box.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! The 0.2mm cura 4.4 miniature profile works great! Before I tried that I was getting clogs. I bought the owlbear miniature, great detail! I modded the profile a bit because my nozzle is stainless steel, so I have 215 C nozzle and 60 C bed temp. I found I needed to have blue painters tape to get pt 2mm prints to stick, whereas I never had a problem on pt 4mm nozzle, so that’s a notable difference. I also really like the raft setting, it makes it much easier to get your print off when it’s done. (I am using cura 4.6.1).
Profile works well, I adjusted the values shown in the video as they did not match the file but my first test print came out amazing and this saved me weeks of test prints.
Use my latest settings/profiles available at my website, they improve quality significantly over these settings which are several years old at this point.
I did get my first clogged nozzel with the settings ~10 hrs of printing, going to try a filament filter do you have any other suggestions to try Neptune 3 ESun PLA+@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors
Ok I think I figured it out I added a filament filter to stop dust and after some nylon cold pulls I am printing again with your profile and it looks great.
Man those are some clean looking prints on an FDM printer. You have me interested in getting a 2mm nozzle and trying this out! I’m a miniature painter so the smoother the prints the better
For what its worth I'm using a Hictop 3DP-12 fitted with a 0.2 nozzle . I have entered your configuration and sliced into Cura 4.3.0 the print results are noticeably a lot better. I'll keep watching out what you bring out next. All the best
That's honestly how I tuned my leveling. I slice and print a bed leveling test with each of my profiles and while it prints I slowly raise the bed until extrusion stops because I'm too close to the bed then I back off ever so slightly until it's exactly where I want it. When I first got my printer that was the hardest thing for me to figure out was why my prints were failing. It ended up being I was never close enough to the bed.
These are among the best FDM printable miniatures out there. And I can attest they print even better in resin. I use both a PrusaI3 Mark2 for FDM and Anycubic Photon for resin.
Those are truly some amazing quality prints there and it has me thinking I can really print other things with detaill that I need like keyboard hinges. Really is very impressive. Thanks so much!
@@CalmPlains just keep in mind the toxicity of the resin, and the safety precautions you must adhere too. I see way too many people not doing their homework on it and making mistakes like rinsing uncured resin in a kitchen sink, using latex gloves instead of neoprene or nitril, throwing empty bottles with uncured resin in their trash, etc.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Safety first! think the big deal breaker for me with FDM is the sheer amount of troubleshooting involved. More variables, more things that can wrong, more expertise required. Contrast that to an Elegoo Mars plug N play printing, and far less mechanical bits that can get screwed up.... I want to like FDM but it seems like a mountain im too lazy to climb. That being said I have not made a purchase decision yet.
I literally JUST took my 0.2mm nozzle off to put a 0.4 back on and use your 0.4 profile 1 week ago. That said, it definitely looks like it's worth it to go back...
Have u tried using towers? If not, I guess u could give it a try. Then set the support placement as touching buildplate and the density of all the parts of the support to be around 10% - 15%. I personally use 10%. The rest leave as default.
Just wanted to stay thanks for the videos, I am a micro armor gamer and just started 3d printing, 1/100 and 1/200th scale. Looking forward to trying you setting.
i have to say that with a 0.2 nozzle, getting your bed height from the nozzle is one of the hardest things to get right. With such a small nozzle you REALLY don't have much room to play with and if you get it barely wrong, your extruder stepper motor will start slipping and popping... you'll end up with a clog faster from an improper bed level with a 0.2 nozzle than probably anything else. GET THOSE UPGRADED BED SPRINGS! That won't solve your problems, but it will definitely 100% help you get that perfect bed level that you NEED when printing with 0.2mm nozzles. Cheers guys
@@samsteel4456 because the stock ones are weak and don't press against the plate as firmly. micro adjustments made with lots of tension (from the upgraded springs) hold their position much better than weak springs.
@@LauraDelvecchio Spring force is a function of compression. If you are looking for more force against the plate, why not simply compress the spring more?
@@LauraDelvecchio Well I'll strongly disagree with you. It's hardly an upgrade that makes a "big difference". In fact, it makes absolutely no difference at all in print quality. Like I said, you can achieve the same thing by simply tightening the springs. In the 8 years of 3d printing I've been doing with the 10 bots I have, my experience tells me it literally makes no difference at all. Like zero. However, if you've convinced yourself it's giving you better prints then carry on. But it's kind of like saying, when you were a kid, that your new running shoes make you run faster.
Another great video. I use to use your cura profiles as my main go to profiles, but changed to to another one that has "experimental support" settings. Please, do a video and share a cura profile that uses some of the experimental cura settings (especially supports). I know your designs are supportless, but it would help a lot of us out! thanks
Wish you could do this for the PrusaSlicer app. I'm getting pretty good prints with my settings there, but I'd love to not have to translate these, as many Cura settings don't have direct analogues. :(
Been using a tweaked version of the 0.4 profile with my clone-of-a-clone prusa mk3, with cheapest pla available, to very good results. Shall give this one a go. :)
Probably not soon as nothing I sculpt requires supports, so devoting that much time to experimenting with them is better spent on other topics applicable to my models. :)
Great video but I just don’t understand how you printed that first model without supports, I was hoping to see the orientation, how can you print that staff or the arms in mid air? Do you have another video that explains that?
well, okay it's not "absolutely" 100% perfect, but that seems pretty close! I just got my first ender 3 v2 (used) haven't even printed anything yet, but I was convinced I wouldn't be doing miniatures without a resin printer. But I could definitely live with that quality, and the nozzles don't even seem very expensive!
4.3 doesn't work with our profiles currently (you need to create a custom printer profile, not use the pre-loaded reality ones as they will overwrite many of my settings.) I recommend using Cura 4.0 for now.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I also would very much appreciate the tutorial on how to properly set the support to mini. Do you use the automatic Cura version or do you support yourself in another program?
What are the pros and cons of printing multiple models at once? I would think that the printer should be tight enough to pick back up and keep the same level of detail, while also giving the area more of a time to cool down.
I've found with fdm printed mini's washes bring out the mould lines so its best to wash the recesses, then bring to colours back to solid elsewhere and hide the lines
Impressive prints. I'm currently into this now actually and I was wondering if you have any good suggestions on painting techniques to compensate for the smallest of print lines. Obviously smaller print lines will give less issues but when washes are applied the wash tends to highlight the layer lines. I would love to see how your recent prints hold up to standard painting techniques. Maybe you won't have any issues with the quality you are reaching.
Such great videos and results are amazing Thank you! I was wondering if you had any advice on normal and tree supports. I know your models come support free but not everyone else's do and when they don't all the models printed with your profile look great but the supports ruin the greatness of your profiles.
Which Ender model would you recommend? I've seen you use a couple different ones throughout the channel. I'd like to make it my first 3D printer, but I was wondering if you had to start out again with just one, which one would you pick?
Seems like the printer profile is no longer available in the description, could you put that back in or whatever version would work best for the.2mm nozzle you are talking about
Lol .... wish you put this out before I splurged on a resin printer.....oh well I have much terrain to produce at .4 BUTout of curiosity how much did it increase your print time? Always super helpful videos !
Just getting into 3D printing, and I'm glad I found your channel! Do these settings work well as a general starting place for all FDM printers? Will these settings work well for larger statues as well?
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Thank you. I sort of copied over from previous version you had available - I too did have to go with a higher temp. I did notice my prints are a little more pliable/softer/easier to break now with the smaller nozzle but I'm not sure why because it looks great.
Im getting the following error, I have cura 4.11 new install so not sure what could be wrong. Printer (ender 3) is setup and nozzle is correct. Successfully imported profile Cura4-11_Mini_02mmNozzle_v1 #2. Warning: The profile is not visible because its quality type 'super' is not available for the current configuration. Switch to a material/nozzle combination that can use this quality type.
Oh wow, I'm definitely giving a 0.2mm nozzle a shot once I run out of Hatchbox and crack open my eSun PLA+! Would you say using this profile and a 0.2mm nozzle to print large models (like your Eye Beast or Giant Spider, or possibly even bigger) is a good idea or is it overkill?
I once watched a video on printing miniatures and this guy prints all his figurines as 100% top layers and the resolution was unbelievable, even with a .4 nozzle, unfortunately, I can't find that video I think it must have been in my recommended feed
That sounds like the siepie profile. I've tried it, I personally didnt like it but it's a pretty popular profile so you might give it a shot. My issue was that since it's based on a trick in the slicer, when if didnt work troubleshooting was all but out of the question
I've really been on a journey of discovery with your videos over the last few days. Implemented the stringing fix and installed the 0.2mm nozzle (along the way throwing out a heater block and thermistor due to clumsiness). I'm not quite there yet (stringing just wont go away...starting to suspect it's the filament I'm using), but I've learned a lot about printing, slicing, and the printer itself. Much appreciated! Question, what do you think of replacing the heat block with a copper one? Apparently it offers more temperature stability and thus cleaner prints.
First of all, thank you very much for all your videos! I really appreciate it very much - the settings you use work perfectly for me and the explanations are awesome :) Only one short question - you said, that your figurines are 100 % support free. How is it possible to print the stick like this? Because it's actually nearly horizontal - maybe I have missed something. Thank you for your answer right away :)
My best guess is "bridging." If you have really good cooling and decent natural supports (in this case, lizard-man's hands!), FDM printers can actually drag reasonably straight filament across small gaps. Seeing as we're dealing with ~28mm miniatures here, those gaps are actually quite small from the printer's point of view. I had a teeny-tiny horizontal arrow shaft on one of my sculpts print reasonably straight, and I was quite impressed. :)
In one of your videos you say that using supports is in another video and that you will go over it in more detail. I am having a horrible time finding that video as I go through your videos. I am sure this has been addressed somewhere in your channel, whether it be the video I am looking for or embedded in another video that I have not found. Pointers? I am really curious about how you handle this and want to make certain that I use them when necessary in this approach to printing minis, and when I do use them, how to get the best outcome with them. Thanks! :D
they are superb very detailed how long does it take to print one of these figures on an ender 3 pro please ? I am really struggling to print anything atm but have only just built my Ender 3 pro so a lot to learn 🙄
Hi man. Big fan of your tutorials : without them I'll still be failing all my prints. I've noticed your Cura 4.6 profile do not contain 0.2 mm nozzle profile. Can I use the 4.4 Cura profile without problem?
Love the info and the To3DPH vids have been a great hep in getting my Ender 3v2 up and running for minis. The only issue I see here, using a .2mm setup and these settings, is the wildly slow print times. Any thoughts of how this could be sped up a bit without much risk to mini quality outcome?
this is amazing quality! I could have swarn it was resin before you said it wasnt. Im looking to get my first printer and am thinking of getting the Bambu A1 mini (when it eventually comes out). Am i safe to assume it could achieve the same quality with a 0.2nozzle? Also- ill love to see how these settings work for larger prints (albeit much longer prints) would the detail still hold out with larger prints?
I have seen prints from the A1 (prototype) that look like it will definitely do this quality or better AT SLOWER SPEEDS similar to the Ender-2 Pro speeds.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors would you say the ender 3 would give finer quality prints than the a1 mini? (Sorry - just trying to get my head around all the different printer types 🤦♂️)
@@nickholl the current top printer for doing minis is the Ender-2 Pro (see my video on that one), I think (but cannot say for sure until I get one and test it) that the A1 will be as good or better on minis than that one.
Hi! Your channel is incredible. I recently picked up this printer and I'm looking forward to getting results like this. Will using Cura 4.4 change these results? Should I install a legacy version to use these settings?
Hello! Awesome and very useful video as usual, your profiles are always on-point ! Do you have any tricks or suggestions for "good" supports settings? Because that's the only thing I'm having trouble with your otherwise perfect profiles!
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors How do you manage to print those without supports? Looking at the lizard man at the beginning of this video, with the spear overhang...how would that print without supports??
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Apparently so. Lol. I just can't wrap my head around the physics of it. But apparently it's not a setting but function of the design. I had to buy a custom mini for a character I'm playing and was hoping it was a trick I could use, because this thing definitely needs supports! But the supports are ruining it. :(
Hello there. Super interesting video; I'm starting to get interested in this world and I have a question that comes from ignorance: PLA being biodegradable, won't print get ruined over time? In short, why bother printing miniatures and scenarios (and then painting everything) if then in a short time it is all to be replaced? And I wanted to know: Is there a material that does not have this problem? (like resin ecc)
Do you think I can get the same results with a .3mm nozzle since it can go down to a 0.08mm layer height? This way I could go to a 0.2mm layer for terrain without the need to switch nozzles. What do you think?
Hi! Great video but I have a question as someone who's just starting out. Using this Cura profile I'm getting gaps in the shell each layer (in the slicer preview, haven't printed anything with it yet). Is that intended to avoid overlaps or is there some settings I should change? Thanks for all the help I've gotten through you videos.
It's because of the coasting settings. Coasting stops extrusion right before the layer is finished and the rest is printed with the remaining pressure in the nozzle, hence you see a gap in cura where it stops
A small question, do you print one miniature at a time, or it is safe to print a couple? For example I would like to print several miniatures overnight. I`m asking because the travel acceleration is quite high and it could possibly knock or damage some pointy parts.
After watching several of your videos, I'm seeing a common thread of techniques to avoid the radiant heat from the nozzle from raising previously printed layers above the glass transition temperature. Would printing multiple models at the same time also help? The hypothesis that I've heard for this is each layer on the first model gets more time to cool down while the printer is working on a layer of the second model, and then vise versa. Allowing the model to cool more requires more radiant heat to warm the plastic. Do you think there is anything to this technique? Have you experimented and found any evidence to support this hypothesis, or have you not really seen any noticeable benefit? I know the risk of printing multiple objects is if one fails it has the potential to ruin the print of all the others.
I've started printing multiple objects at a time and I don't seem to have an issue. This is mostly referring to terrain w/ a .4mm nozzle at first I did have an issue with failures but I switched to the glass bed and spent a good amount of time leveling (some would argue my Z axis is too low) and I haven't had a failure since then. I also clean the bed with Isopropyl before every print.
Yes, multiple models helps with this issue. I sometimes print a 5x5mm tower that is slightly taller than my mini as the thin tower does not add as much time to the print. In cura there is also a minimum layer time setting, I use 10 seconds. If the layer take less than 10 seconds to print the head moves away from the print untill the remainder of the 10 seconds has passed. Btw, I'm ordering a .2mm nozel now. I've had quite good success with my .4mm and can only hope for results like this.
Hi! I do have a question regarding supports and supports interface. i'm tinkering with my custom profile for my Delta Mini. The trial prints resulted in GREAT surface (PLA+ at 190°, fantastic) but some blobs here and there, mostly where supports touch the mini. I have lowered "support interface density" from 80% to 50%. do you have any experience in tinkering with that?
I am looking to buy an Ender 3 pro and replace with .2mm nozzel Nd use for minitures like d&d and 40k proxies. What is the print time on a standard d&d human size character esrimated to be at these settings? I am looking for high detail if possible.
Just wondering. I once suggested if you could add a PDF of your settings on your web download. So anyone that dose not have a Ender 3. Can just in put manually the settings in Cura for their printer. And thanks for your reply and explaining time commitments would be an issue. I'm now wondering would it be easier and faster to do a screen shots like you have done here in this video, instead of do a full doc??
Follow tutorials to switch from .4mm to a .2mm, and got the same bad results as I have each time I've tried in the past...everything works fine when I do a bed level/print test, but when I actually go to print, it's like the nozzle is to close to the bed and not printing. I've used the latest .2mm setting in Cura 5. So, I'm giving up. I'm really tired of something so easy screwing up and causing so much frustration.
I was trying to use your .4mm Cura profiles with .2mm nozzle, but I find it difficult to set proper settings (with 0.08 and 0.12mm layer hights). Which settings shall be changed when nozzle is replaced?
Hello , is a 0.3mm nozzle better for details ( from the 0.4mm ) given the fact that 0.2mm is stressfull to operate ( from what i have read )? And im kinda new to this so i don't want to go to deep waters from the beggining. Thanks
FDM seems very fiddly compared to resin printing. I guess it comes down to the question of whether or not you need to be able to make large(r) prints. If you need to print larger things, FDM is really the only choice. Right now, 2k printers are marked down in price as everyone's moving to 4k. Some quality minis have been produced in excellent detail with 2k resin printers. So right this moment, you can't easily buy a decent FDM printer for a whole lot less than the cost of a decent 2k resin printer … but you can build a decent printer for a little less if that's your thing. Resin printers cost less per print and are less fiddly in setup (fewer variables) but at the cost of more (mostly different IMO, but more) cleanup and … fumes are a thing. FDM has more variables, you need to learn to dial things in for what you're printing and what you're printing them with, but they can produce similar quality. Oh, and they can produce (relatively) big prints. Have to learn where to get quality filament, and it's not cheap.) All of this is subject to my research being wrong today, or changes in the 3D printing industry tomorrow. 😃 But it's what I'm going on right this minute because that seems to be what research is telling me. If minis are my goal, I want resin. If terrain, box organizers, cases for electronics projects, and a host of other things are my goal, I really want FDM. Probably, if I can find space and budget for it, I want both.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Dude! I just plugged your 4mm nozzle profile into Cura to see what happens, and got the best print I've ever had! The layer lines are barely visible, on a SILK GOLD! I haven't even tried the 2mm nozzle profile yet! You just took so many hours of tinkering and research and frustration out of the process for me! You're truly the best 3D printing channel on TH-cam!
Did you try my latest Cura 5.0 profiles from my website? They are even better than the quality these older settings produce :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I'm still on Windows 7 so I'm stuck on Cura 4 lol, but noted, once I get a new PC and Windows 10 I totally will check it out!
did you use supports?
May I ask what do you do for post processing for a 28mm miniature to erase the layer lines ? Do you recommend resin, sanding or what ?
Use a layer of primer @@jchamorrob
You are the best printing channel I have found I can get my FDM printer to print like my resin printer just from watching your videos. Thank you so much.
Thanks for watching! :)
2:31 there’s more layer lines on your fingers than on any of the prints you’ve shown, great job!
You sir changed my life. You’re the best advisor out there.
And your products are great!!! Already purchased several terrains from Fat Dragon and it’s amazing!!!!!
Thanks for supporting us! :)
So this video is great, and the profile is fantastic, but there's some missing info that's a major oversight. You HAVE to go into machine settings in Cura and change your nozzle size to 0.2, otherwise Cura will OVERRIDE line quality settings, reverting them back to 0.4 resulting in a mess of plastic leaking out from the heater block due to increased pressure behind the hot end. This is such an important thing to mention that I'm stupefied it wasn't brought up at all. As a relative newbie I loaded this profile in and immediately did a test print. When it looked to be working, I left for two hours. When I came back everything had gone to shit and I had to spend over an hour cleaning my hot end assembly and replacing tubing/nozzles.
im pretty sure the issue youre raising is a cura 4.4 issue. This didnt used to happen in cura 4.0; which is what this video is designed around. Check the version of the cura software you are using. In his more recent videos from 5th December, he goes through how 4.4 over-rides nozel settings if you dont re-set it in the pull down box.
@@atienofiachra2874 No, I was using the correct version of Cura. 4.0 is the only version I have installed.
Thank you for the information! I've learned so much about 3D printing from this channel! You actually explain the reasoning behind certain settings.
Thank you,I started 3d printing last year,I couldn’t print minis right so gave up ,these settings work brilliant 🥰
Amazing detail. Wish there were more models out there that were made to minimize overhangs. My struggle has always been with support structures.
Briteminis has a few on thingiverse and on patreon
Thank you, thank you, thank you! The 0.2mm cura 4.4 miniature profile works great! Before I tried that I was getting clogs. I bought the owlbear miniature, great detail! I modded the profile a bit because my nozzle is stainless steel, so I have 215 C nozzle and 60 C bed temp. I found I needed to have blue painters tape to get pt 2mm prints to stick, whereas I never had a problem on pt 4mm nozzle, so that’s a notable difference. I also really like the raft setting, it makes it much easier to get your print off when it’s done. (I am using cura 4.6.1).
Profile works well, I adjusted the values shown in the video as they did not match the file but my first test print came out amazing and this saved me weeks of test prints.
Use my latest settings/profiles available at my website, they improve quality significantly over these settings which are several years old at this point.
I did get my first clogged nozzel with the settings ~10 hrs of printing, going to try a filament filter do you have any other suggestions to try Neptune 3 ESun PLA+@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors
Ok I think I figured it out I added a filament filter to stop dust and after some nylon cold pulls I am printing again with your profile and it looks great.
Man those are some clean looking prints on an FDM printer. You have me interested in getting a 2mm nozzle and trying this out! I’m a miniature painter so the smoother the prints the better
Same here!
For what its worth I'm using a Hictop 3DP-12 fitted with a 0.2 nozzle . I have entered your configuration and sliced into Cura 4.3.0 the print
results are noticeably a lot better.
I'll keep watching out what you bring out next.
All the best
I really had to lough " a hair too low" would naerly be a nozzle crash. Thanks for the vid! Great work.
That's honestly how I tuned my leveling. I slice and print a bed leveling test with each of my profiles and while it prints I slowly raise the bed until extrusion stops because I'm too close to the bed then I back off ever so slightly until it's exactly where I want it. When I first got my printer that was the hardest thing for me to figure out was why my prints were failing. It ended up being I was never close enough to the bed.
I'm so glad you posted this video! I just got a .2mm nozzle and love your .4mm profile! Was looking for a .2mm profile and BAM! Thanks!
Dear Johnhorus1, Would you be so kind and point me to 0.4 mm profile, thx.
@@jozesaje, The Resources tab on the FDG website has their profiles.
@@jozesaje The profile is on fatdragongames.com! He's got a whole section of profiles for FDM printed minis and terrain!
@@johnhorus1 thx
Thanks! With your methot I'm printing very good minis in my fdm printer.
Just wow.. Looks awesome. Thank you so much for sharing the information.
Thanks for watching :)
These are among the best FDM printable miniatures out there. And I can attest they print even better in resin. I use both a PrusaI3 Mark2 for FDM and Anycubic Photon for resin.
Thanks!
Those are truly some amazing quality prints there and it has me thinking I can really print other things with detaill that I need like keyboard hinges. Really is very impressive. Thanks so much!
Thanks Tom! 0.2mm nozzles ordered!
Amazing, if I can get results like yours I won’t bother buying a resin printer!
^ Exactly this. Currently weighing my options. Love the FDM print size and material costs... but that Resin quality tho...
@@CalmPlains just keep in mind the toxicity of the resin, and the safety precautions you must adhere too. I see way too many people not doing their homework on it and making mistakes like rinsing uncured resin in a kitchen sink, using latex gloves instead of neoprene or nitril, throwing empty bottles with uncured resin in their trash, etc.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Safety first! think the big deal breaker for me with FDM is the sheer amount of troubleshooting involved. More variables, more things that can wrong, more expertise required. Contrast that to an Elegoo Mars plug N play printing, and far less mechanical bits that can get screwed up.... I want to like FDM but it seems like a mountain im too lazy to climb. That being said I have not made a purchase decision yet.
I literally JUST took my 0.2mm nozzle off to put a 0.4 back on and use your 0.4 profile 1 week ago. That said, it definitely looks like it's worth it to go back...
Thank you so much for all of these as a newer 3D printer your video's have been the keys to success.
As always, super informative. You are my goto youtube channel when it comes to 3d printing. Cant wait to try these setting out. Thanks!
Thanks for watching! :)
Great video, great channel! How would you configure supports if you had to use supports? i kinda struggle with them on some prints :(
Have u tried using towers? If not, I guess u could give it a try. Then set the support placement as touching buildplate and the density of all the parts of the support to be around 10% - 15%. I personally use 10%. The rest leave as default.
Thank you Tom for the profiles and videos. I made two further purchases on DTRPG this evening to say thanks. Snake and Goblinoids sets 1.
Thank you!
Just wanted to stay thanks for the videos, I am a micro armor gamer and just started 3d printing, 1/100 and 1/200th scale. Looking forward to trying you setting.
i have to say that with a 0.2 nozzle, getting your bed height from the nozzle is one of the hardest things to get right. With such a small nozzle you REALLY don't have much room to play with and if you get it barely wrong, your extruder stepper motor will start slipping and popping... you'll end up with a clog faster from an improper bed level with a 0.2 nozzle than probably anything else. GET THOSE UPGRADED BED SPRINGS! That won't solve your problems, but it will definitely 100% help you get that perfect bed level that you NEED when printing with 0.2mm nozzles. Cheers guys
Why will different bed springs "help you get that perfect bed level"?
@@samsteel4456 because the stock ones are weak and don't press against the plate as firmly. micro adjustments made with lots of tension (from the upgraded springs) hold their position much better than weak springs.
@@LauraDelvecchio Spring force is a function of compression. If you are looking for more force against the plate, why not simply compress the spring more?
@@samsteel4456 okay use the stock springs then lol it's a 5$ upgrade that made a big difference for me and maaaany other users.
@@LauraDelvecchio Well I'll strongly disagree with you. It's hardly an upgrade that makes a "big difference". In fact, it makes absolutely no difference at all in print quality. Like I said, you can achieve the same thing by simply tightening the springs. In the 8 years of 3d printing I've been doing with the 10 bots I have, my experience tells me it literally makes no difference at all. Like zero. However, if you've convinced yourself it's giving you better prints then carry on. But it's kind of like saying, when you were a kid, that your new running shoes make you run faster.
Oh god, i dont know how can u be too good at this.
If I could send you pictures about my issues you would help me a lot
Another great video. I use to use your cura profiles as my main go to profiles, but changed to to another one that has "experimental support" settings. Please, do a video and share a cura profile that uses some of the experimental cura settings (especially supports). I know your designs are supportless, but it would help a lot of us out! thanks
Just enable them in settings. Under preferences, settings you type experimental and choose those.
Another great video! Thank you! I’ll use your link to purchase my new 0.2mm nozzles for my Ender 3 Pro.
Wish you could do this for the PrusaSlicer app. I'm getting pretty good prints with my settings there, but I'd love to not have to translate these, as many Cura settings don't have direct analogues. :(
i second that :(
Love your videos ❤️ i hope you will upload some new ones about FDM miniatures printing ! Keep it Up man 👏
Been using a tweaked version of the 0.4 profile with my clone-of-a-clone prusa mk3, with cheapest pla available, to very good results. Shall give this one a go. :)
Don't use cheap PLA with a .2, I recommend eSun PLA Pro or Hatchbox.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Alright, though, those might not be readily available around here. :(
Switched to Cura for my cr 10, been impressed with results using variant of your profile
Will you please do a video tutorial on support setting (and/or experimental three support) on cura?
Probably not soon as nothing I sculpt requires supports, so devoting that much time to experimenting with them is better spent on other topics applicable to my models. :)
You gave a lot of great information! Thanks for sharing your knowledge on this subject and giving everyone a good base to start at.
Thanks ! An amazing tutorial. A SLIC3R profile would be awesome too.
Great video but I just don’t understand how you printed that first model without supports, I was hoping to see the orientation, how can you print that staff or the arms in mid air? Do you have another video that explains that?
The staff/hands are a separate piece that you glue on.
That explains it. I've been breaking up the models I've beed getting from thingiverse to help with this.
well, okay it's not "absolutely" 100% perfect, but that seems pretty close! I just got my first ender 3 v2 (used) haven't even printed anything yet, but I was convinced I wouldn't be doing miniatures without a resin printer. But I could definitely live with that quality, and the nozzles don't even seem very expensive!
Thank you. Will try that 4mm profile for Cura 4.3
4.3 doesn't work with our profiles currently (you need to create a custom printer profile, not use the pre-loaded reality ones as they will overwrite many of my settings.) I recommend using Cura 4.0 for now.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors oh didn't know. Thank you again wise sir :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I also would very much appreciate the tutorial on how to properly set the support to mini. Do you use the automatic Cura version or do you support yourself in another program?
@@jackzahllor7064 I rarely ever use supports because none of my sculpts require them.
This man deserves everything
Thank you for your marvelous video! I assume the profiles named 2, 3 and 4 mm mean 0.2, 0.3 and 0.4 mm nozzle, right?
Yep!
The link to download your profile seems to be broken today. Great video!
Impressive job you have done
Thanks for sharing this great video👍😀
Thanks :)
What are the pros and cons of printing multiple models at once? I would think that the printer should be tight enough to pick back up and keep the same level of detail, while also giving the area more of a time to cool down.
Awesome yup about the settings i use on all my prints
Any chance you could put a wash over this to see how suitable these are for painting in that way? That would be amazing. Thanks.
I've found with fdm printed mini's washes bring out the mould lines so its best to wash the recesses, then bring to colours back to solid elsewhere and hide the lines
Impressive prints. I'm currently into this now actually and I was wondering if you have any good suggestions on painting techniques to compensate for the smallest of print lines. Obviously smaller print lines will give less issues but when washes are applied the wash tends to highlight the layer lines. I would love to see how your recent prints hold up to standard painting techniques. Maybe you won't have any issues with the quality you are reaching.
Check out my miniature painting tutorial, I have a technique for eliminating layer lines. :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Went through your videos and I can't find such video. I'd love some painting tips on hiding those pesky lines. Thanks!
@@dotjn5 th-cam.com/video/I2mtVPplfu8/w-d-xo.html
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Thank you very much. Love your work and all the great tips and tricks.
You = Hero!
Thanks :)
Such great videos and results are amazing Thank you! I was wondering if you had any advice on normal and tree supports. I know your models come support free but not everyone else's do and when they don't all the models printed with your profile look great but the supports ruin the greatness of your profiles.
Sorry, no.
Thanks for your help mate
The prints look fantastic ! thank you for sharing the information.
Which Ender model would you recommend?
I've seen you use a couple different ones throughout the channel. I'd like to make it my first 3D printer, but I was wondering if you had to start out again with just one, which one would you pick?
Seems like the printer profile is no longer available in the description, could you put that back in or whatever version would work best for the.2mm nozzle you are talking about
Very informative. Thanks!
Lol .... wish you put this out before I splurged on a resin printer.....oh well I have much terrain to produce at .4 BUTout of curiosity how much did it increase your print time? Always super helpful videos !
Depends on the mini, but a little over twice as long
Just getting into 3D printing, and I'm glad I found your channel! Do these settings work well as a general starting place for all FDM printers? Will these settings work well for larger statues as well?
These settings aren't up to date, use the newer Cura profiles on my website under the Resources menu. No, these settings are only for miniatures.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Thanks for replying!
Noted. I'll check out the new settings!
Thanks for another great video Tom. Can you please release a 2mm profile for Cura 4.4?
I will when I have time to complete it, all of these profiles and videos are done in my spare time.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors can we just make the changes you detailed in the video to the .3mm or .4mm profile for Cura 4.4.x?
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Thank you. I sort of copied over from previous version you had available - I too did have to go with a higher temp. I did notice my prints are a little more pliable/softer/easier to break now with the smaller nozzle but I'm not sure why because it looks great.
Im getting the following error, I have cura 4.11 new install so not sure what could be wrong. Printer (ender 3) is setup and nozzle is correct. Successfully imported profile Cura4-11_Mini_02mmNozzle_v1 #2.
Warning: The profile is not visible because its quality type 'super' is not available for the current configuration. Switch to a material/nozzle combination that can use this quality type.
this vid convincef me to swap to 0.2mm for minis
Oh wow, I'm definitely giving a 0.2mm nozzle a shot once I run out of Hatchbox and crack open my eSun PLA+! Would you say using this profile and a 0.2mm nozzle to print large models (like your Eye Beast or Giant Spider, or possibly even bigger) is a good idea or is it overkill?
For those it is probably overkill, I prefer a .3mm nozzle for things like them, and a .4mm for large things like dragons. :)
I once watched a video on printing miniatures and this guy prints all his figurines as 100% top layers and the resolution was unbelievable, even with a .4 nozzle, unfortunately, I can't find that video I think it must have been in my recommended feed
That's not the best way to print miniatures, I discuss why in this video here: th-cam.com/video/AqEWl51s9Rw/w-d-xo.html
That sounds like the siepie profile. I've tried it, I personally didnt like it but it's a pretty popular profile so you might give it a shot.
My issue was that since it's based on a trick in the slicer, when if didnt work troubleshooting was all but out of the question
Hey! Can we expect a 4.6 2mm nozzle profile any time soon? I'm loving your 4mm profile so far but looking to get that sweet sweet detail ^^.
Just use our current .2mm nozzle profile, it works fine with 4.6
I've really been on a journey of discovery with your videos over the last few days. Implemented the stringing fix and installed the 0.2mm nozzle (along the way throwing out a heater block and thermistor due to clumsiness). I'm not quite there yet (stringing just wont go away...starting to suspect it's the filament I'm using), but I've learned a lot about printing, slicing, and the printer itself. Much appreciated!
Question, what do you think of replacing the heat block with a copper one? Apparently it offers more temperature stability and thus cleaner prints.
First of all, thank you very much for all your videos! I really appreciate it very much - the settings you use work perfectly for me and the explanations are awesome :)
Only one short question - you said, that your figurines are 100 % support free. How is it possible to print the stick like this? Because it's actually nearly horizontal - maybe I have missed something.
Thank you for your answer right away :)
My best guess is "bridging." If you have really good cooling and decent natural supports (in this case, lizard-man's hands!), FDM printers can actually drag reasonably straight filament across small gaps. Seeing as we're dealing with ~28mm miniatures here, those gaps are actually quite small from the printer's point of view. I had a teeny-tiny horizontal arrow shaft on one of my sculpts print reasonably straight, and I was quite impressed. :)
In one of your videos you say that using supports is in another video and that you will go over it in more detail. I am having a horrible time finding that video as I go through your videos. I am sure this has been addressed somewhere in your channel, whether it be the video I am looking for or embedded in another video that I have not found. Pointers? I am really curious about how you handle this and want to make certain that I use them when necessary in this approach to printing minis, and when I do use them, how to get the best outcome with them. Thanks! :D
I've not covered supports as of yet as all of the Dragonlock terrain and miniature models I design are supportless.
they are superb very detailed how long does it take to print one of these figures on an ender 3 pro please ? I am really struggling to print anything atm but have only just built my Ender 3 pro so a lot to learn 🙄
Hi man. Big fan of your tutorials : without them I'll still be failing all my prints. I've noticed your Cura 4.6 profile do not contain 0.2 mm nozzle profile. Can I use the 4.4 Cura profile without problem?
Yes
Great Stuff, thanks. Which PLA should i use for miniatures and terrain?
I like eSun PLA Plus (Pro)
About to try out my 0.25 mm nozzle. Thanks for posting, any advice when dialing in between your 0.2 and 0.3 mm profiles?
Love the info and the To3DPH vids have been a great hep in getting my Ender 3v2 up and running for minis. The only issue I see here, using a .2mm setup and these settings, is the wildly slow print times. Any thoughts of how this could be sped up a bit without much risk to mini quality outcome?
If you want quality you print slow. My latest .2mm (and .3mm) minis profiles are on the FDG website. If you want faster, go with the .3mm nozzle.
Thank you so much!
Did you ever do a video on the support?
No, none of the models I design require supports.
this is amazing quality! I could have swarn it was resin before you said it wasnt. Im looking to get my first printer and am thinking of getting the Bambu A1 mini (when it eventually comes out). Am i safe to assume it could achieve the same quality with a 0.2nozzle? Also- ill love to see how these settings work for larger prints (albeit much longer prints) would the detail still hold out with larger prints?
I have seen prints from the A1 (prototype) that look like it will definitely do this quality or better AT SLOWER SPEEDS similar to the Ender-2 Pro speeds.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors would you say the ender 3 would give finer quality prints than the a1 mini? (Sorry - just trying to get my head around all the different printer types 🤦♂️)
@@nickholl the current top printer for doing minis is the Ender-2 Pro (see my video on that one), I think (but cannot say for sure until I get one and test it) that the A1 will be as good or better on minis than that one.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors oh! Interesting. I’ll definitely take a look. And it’s £100 cheaper than the mini (and available).
Hi! Your channel is incredible. I recently picked up this printer and I'm looking forward to getting results like this.
Will using Cura 4.4 change these results? Should I install a legacy version to use these settings?
I will release a native Cure 4.4 profile for .4mm and .3mm nozzle this week, and a .2mm nozzle version in week or two. :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Is the .2mm version still coming?
@@captaincoo1 yes, when I get some free time to devote to it (which has been sparse over the holidays, obviously.)
Hello! Awesome and very useful video as usual, your profiles are always on-point !
Do you have any tricks or suggestions for "good" supports settings? Because that's the only thing I'm having trouble with your otherwise perfect profiles!
I'm afraid not, I haven't spent time developing settings for supports since none of the miniatures I sculpt require them.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors How do you manage to print those without supports? Looking at the lizard man at the beginning of this video, with the spear overhang...how would that print without supports??
@@unB10 we're experts at no-support sculpting! Seriously, nothing we sell requires slicer supports. EVER. :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Apparently so. Lol. I just can't wrap my head around the physics of it. But apparently it's not a setting but function of the design. I had to buy a custom mini for a character I'm playing and was hoping it was a trick I could use, because this thing definitely needs supports! But the supports are ruining it. :(
Hello there.
Super interesting video; I'm starting to get interested in this world and I have a question that comes from ignorance: PLA being biodegradable, won't print get ruined over time? In short, why bother printing miniatures and scenarios (and then painting everything) if then
in a short time it is all to be replaced?
And I wanted to know: Is there a material that does not have this problem? (like resin ecc)
It is only biodegradable in an active compost pile, that is kept wet and over 130˚. They will not degrade in a home environment. :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors speak for yourself, I'm currently squatting in the giant crystal cave en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cave_of_the_Crystals
Where do you get the files of the minitures from? Awesome video by the way😉
Have you done any tests with a 0.3mm nozzle? Best of both worlds?
Yes, and my .3mm profile can be found here: www.dropbox.com/sh/vr9lkpjt6zw7s8s/AADH5OeOrZll_pIxg9XPOuuQa?dl=0
Do you think I can get the same results with a .3mm nozzle since it can go down to a 0.08mm layer height? This way I could go to a 0.2mm layer for terrain without the need to switch nozzles. What do you think?
fantastic!
That's nice
Hi! Great video but I have a question as someone who's just starting out. Using this Cura profile I'm getting gaps in the shell each layer (in the slicer preview, haven't printed anything with it yet). Is that intended to avoid overlaps or is there some settings I should change?
Thanks for all the help I've gotten through you videos.
It's because of the coasting settings. Coasting stops extrusion right before the layer is finished and the rest is printed with the remaining pressure in the nozzle, hence you see a gap in cura where it stops
A small question, do you print one miniature at a time, or it is safe to print a couple? For example I would like to print several miniatures overnight. I`m asking because the travel acceleration is quite high and it could possibly knock or damage some pointy parts.
For absolute best quality I do one at a time.
After watching several of your videos, I'm seeing a common thread of techniques to avoid the radiant heat from the nozzle from raising previously printed layers above the glass transition temperature. Would printing multiple models at the same time also help? The hypothesis that I've heard for this is each layer on the first model gets more time to cool down while the printer is working on a layer of the second model, and then vise versa. Allowing the model to cool more requires more radiant heat to warm the plastic.
Do you think there is anything to this technique? Have you experimented and found any evidence to support this hypothesis, or have you not really seen any noticeable benefit? I know the risk of printing multiple objects is if one fails it has the potential to ruin the print of all the others.
I've started printing multiple objects at a time and I don't seem to have an issue. This is mostly referring to terrain w/ a .4mm nozzle at first I did have an issue with failures but I switched to the glass bed and spent a good amount of time leveling (some would argue my Z axis is too low) and I haven't had a failure since then. I also clean the bed with Isopropyl before every print.
Yes, multiple models helps with this issue. I sometimes print a 5x5mm tower that is slightly taller than my mini as the thin tower does not add as much time to the print. In cura there is also a minimum layer time setting, I use 10 seconds. If the layer take less than 10 seconds to print the head moves away from the print untill the remainder of the 10 seconds has passed.
Btw, I'm ordering a .2mm nozel now. I've had quite good success with my .4mm and can only hope for results like this.
Hi! I do have a question regarding supports and supports interface. i'm tinkering with my custom profile for my Delta Mini. The trial prints resulted in GREAT surface (PLA+ at 190°, fantastic) but some blobs here and there, mostly where supports touch the mini. I have lowered "support interface density" from 80% to 50%. do you have any experience in tinkering with that?
I am looking to buy an Ender 3 pro and replace with .2mm nozzel Nd use for minitures like d&d and 40k proxies. What is the print time on a standard d&d human size character esrimated to be at these settings? I am looking for high detail if possible.
i have an Ender 3 and i just downloaded his profile and ran a mini the time was 8 hours 41 minutes
Just wondering. I once suggested if you could add a PDF of your settings on your web download. So anyone that dose not have a Ender 3. Can just in put manually the settings in Cura for their printer.
And thanks for your reply and explaining time commitments would be an issue.
I'm now wondering would it be easier and faster to do a screen shots like you have done here in this video, instead of do a full doc??
I did screen shots about two weeks ago, look in the Cura 4.6 folder for them. :)
Thank you
Love the videos! For minis that DO require supports is there support settings you recommend so you don't break your print removing them?
So I found that tree supports with towers turned on gives me a really clean removal
@@chefdeadpool8481 is that on the new cura?
@@PapaBoey71 it is, it's also in the previous version, tree supports are under the "experimental" tab and towers are in the "advanced supports" tab
Hi...does this setting work for ender 5 plus too ?
With a smaller nozzle can you do smaller layer heights?
Thanks for the amazing video! How long did it take to print the miniature with those settings?
Likely a looong time, give the painfully low print speeds.
Follow tutorials to switch from .4mm to a .2mm, and got the same bad results as I have each time I've tried in the past...everything works fine when I do a bed level/print test, but when I actually go to print, it's like the nozzle is to close to the bed and not printing. I've used the latest .2mm setting in Cura 5. So, I'm giving up. I'm really tired of something so easy screwing up and causing so much frustration.
I was trying to use your .4mm Cura profiles with .2mm nozzle, but I find it difficult to set proper settings (with 0.08 and 0.12mm layer hights).
Which settings shall be changed when nozzle is replaced?
I can't seem to find the 2mm nozzle profiles. Only the 4mm nozzle profiles are in the Dropbox folder.
I just checked, it is indeed there: Cura4-8Miniature2mm_V1.curaprofile
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Oh thanks! I thought Cura4 meant for the 0.4mm nozzles. I see now all the nozzle sizes (2, 3, 4) are there.
Hello , is a 0.3mm nozzle better for details ( from the 0.4mm ) given the fact that 0.2mm is stressfull to operate ( from what i have read )? And im kinda new to this so i don't want to go to deep waters from the beggining. Thanks
Tried to import your cura profiles and some reason Cura 4.4 doesn't let me.
Can I use PETG with a 0.2 mm profile? I assume temps will need to change, what else?
Stick with PLA Pro.
FDM seems very fiddly compared to resin printing. I guess it comes down to the question of whether or not you need to be able to make large(r) prints. If you need to print larger things, FDM is really the only choice. Right now, 2k printers are marked down in price as everyone's moving to 4k. Some quality minis have been produced in excellent detail with 2k resin printers. So right this moment, you can't easily buy a decent FDM printer for a whole lot less than the cost of a decent 2k resin printer … but you can build a decent printer for a little less if that's your thing.
Resin printers cost less per print and are less fiddly in setup (fewer variables) but at the cost of more (mostly different IMO, but more) cleanup and … fumes are a thing. FDM has more variables, you need to learn to dial things in for what you're printing and what you're printing them with, but they can produce similar quality. Oh, and they can produce (relatively) big prints. Have to learn where to get quality filament, and it's not cheap.)
All of this is subject to my research being wrong today, or changes in the 3D printing industry tomorrow. 😃 But it's what I'm going on right this minute because that seems to be what research is telling me. If minis are my goal, I want resin. If terrain, box organizers, cases for electronics projects, and a host of other things are my goal, I really want FDM. Probably, if I can find space and budget for it, I want both.