Agreed, the 750W limit in the US is better than some countries that are stuck with 250W but it's still not enough. 1200W is the bare minimum IMO. Anyone looking to build one(that doesn't have past motor cycle experience) should start with a cheap 48V 1500W motor kit from eBay paired with a 52V battery. When they get used to that and want something more upgrade to a 72V+ battery and higher power controller, that 1500W motor will handle up to a 4000W setup normally.
I've been watching this video in parts because I'm busy. But I just thought of something else. If I had a job to go to, I would have to commute to town (20+ km) 5 days per week. As it is, there's still times I have to commute to town. I do things illegal when I have to. There's no bike lanes. There's no sidewalk for 22km. No paved shoulder. The gravel shoulder is often sketchy. Our government is pressing hard for emissions reductions. Which an E-bike is good for. For me to commute via E-Bike either I would have to be allowed to hinder traffic or have a bike that could do the posted speed limit for cars.
The government will most likely continue to make e-bikes more expensive. Currently happening with batteries, not just the UL certification but also the tariffs now being imposed . The good thing about doing “illegal things on bicycles” is its usually rolling through a stop sign to preserve momentum when there are no vehicles within sight, or riding on a sidewalk to avoid a dangerous section of road with no shoulder etc. The only people that care about illegal things like that on bicycles are the Karen’s in the comments that have never rode a bike in their life. The police face greater horrors daily and that is why these “illegal things” go unpunished is because its a victimless crime , except to Karen, in which case she believes she is the victim just because she witnessed it online and her limited brain capacity doesn’t understand it.
I agree you want a bike that can go slighty faster than 30 , i fell safer being able to do 40 personally. It can cover 95% of my local traveling. In my opinion its safer going fast. 750w will get you killed , DIY will aways be better in that regard. Unless they lift the 750w limit or more manufacturers start ignoring it or offering faster options, diy will be much better in terms of speed. Right now its like a million companies using bafang fat bike motors. Then a few like lyric cycles and goat power etc that sell bikes that go faster
My BBSHD is on its 3rd bike. I don’t think you mentioned that benefit. Show me a manufactured bike that has done that. You make a comment about cheap(inexpensive) bikes but my bike is full suspension fox components that you would think it would make it heavy but it’s actually only 56lbs with 20s4p pack. I just took my entire cassette apart and my steel freehub body looks like I just bought it after a year of use at 5Kw. My frame is aluminum so what I’m saying is inexpensive is fine but you can really shed some more weight with a good bike that is easily found on Facebook Marketplace. I’m still a fan of diy especially since if the authorities crack down I think the bikes that look like a bike not a manufactured ebike we will fly under the radar for a bit longer.
For power boats, some places require a license/certification to use any engine that is 10hp or more. Same idea. My understanding is that over the 37 km/h (where I live), one would need a license to ride it. IMO, if people could just "do as they please", Some people would be doing/making very risky/dangerous stuff. E-bikes are great for: 1. Regaining personal mobility. I can't have a driving license because I have a seizure disorder. The nearest store to me is 24 km away past two significant hills. I can't just get a ride with someone else when I need to go to town. It would take me 5.5 hrs to walk one way. and one hour on bike. For either, I'd be too tired to move by the time I got there. I've ordered an e-bike that will get me there and back at 25 km/h and, hopefully, not tired out. I plan to get a generic higher capacity battery right away and build a plug adapter. As for power, I have to wait and see if I need more power for the hills and/or towing a full trailer. 2. combining exercise and exploration. PAS means one can still have the resistance exercise of a bike while being helped go further and thru harder places. Places s/he wouldn't go without the power assist. 3. combining human power with electric power for even less emissions for commuting or travel. For the first one, there needs to be a bike that can't be dangerous. And people with known risk factors must be regulated to those. For the second, posted on road speed limits need to be enforced. Off road, it should be up to one's own courage in risk taking. For the third, License and speed limits would be needed the same as for gas powered street bikes. In short, We need different classes of e-bikes for different needs of the owners.
Thanks for your thoughts. I like the way your bike sounds- I'm not sure if the mid drive sounds a lot different than a hub motor, but those tires are a big improvement in sound vs knobby treads. Fat tires might be OK for certain conditions, but for everyday use I agree that a 2 to 3 inch tire is better for most bikers. Although I like the look of bikes that conceal batteries in the frame, you raise a valid point about replacing batteries that are configured to fit a specific shape, the inflated prices to replace those batteries, and the inability to choose better batteries than what the manufacturer offers.
I was lucky and got a bike from Candian tire that was upgraded and then sold at 60% off after they upgraded something. I have no idea what they upgraded but I thought 60% and a random upgraded sounds good to me. I do need a battery. I got to 48v lithium pack off amazon, and it turns out my bike pulls more amps than I thought. I recommend building an e-bike but don't cheap out on the battery. Don't want to get stuck in my spot (broke and now I can't upgrade my battery).
Also if your batteries have on/off switches, glue the switches "on" The danger of batteries is joining two batteries with different voltages. Never let this happen!
Wow, great U Tube as answered many of my questions. 2 yrs ago got a Mars 500W 20" fat tire folder with 60NM torque & 12.5 AH 15A controller that I unlocked for 23mph. Took off the chain, chain ring, derailleur, shifter & cable. Put on a new crankarm set with them rotated to match on the crankshaft. Put 9.5" rise gull wing bars on the folding giraffe telescoping stem with a new motorcycle style seat with real springs & a softest possible setting spring loaded seatpost. I'm 165# so not that heavy. Now with baskets on both ends & saddlebags not rubbed by the chain, I'd like an AWD set up with a 6" extended air fork, 2"-3" tire on a bigger diameter wheel with a direct drive motor maybe for speed & extra hill climbing ability. A separate system completely with the battery & controller for the front in the front basket & a left handed thumb throttle. 35-40 mph is as fast as an unregistered, unlicensed, uninsured eBike should go IMHO. The 3 Classes are in Federal Law making eBikes, as classified, bicycles & consumer products NOT SUBJECT to state motor vehicle codes & the totalitarians can't stand that they can't regulate & tax everyone to death.
As a long time biker for 72 of my 73 years Ima told, there is 1 thing you should seriously consider & fix ASAP. You need at least 1 rear view mirror & 2 are better. You don't want to end up the human filling between 2 cars in a crash. I use bar end mirrors hanging down as my hands are up high at shoulder top height almost.
a lot of ebikes with generic high capacity batteries use cells that only do like 5 - 10 amps, so in 4 or 5p they cant do much more than the stock controller requires. If you get an ebike where its got good genuine cells then Yeah possibly might be able to squeeze a few more amps out of it. But idk if worth it to upgrade the bms on a battery just to do a few more amps. Like most of the time if u got some stock ebike battery it can only do 30 amps and thats about it
You are not wrong, I got 10A short burst peak discharge cells in 4P configuration stock, the stock BMS is limited at 25A so I squeezed a 35A smart BMS on it but I only did that because the controller was having issues with 25A BMS... it's now fine, no more cut outs@EBikeBuilder_
ents Add a comment... @joeberginc7415 0 seconds ago I agree with your Chinese statement. I have 4 ebikes all with 3k to 4k watts. 90% of the parts are Chinese and I love the stuff. I do say things like having to replace all the cheap Chinese connectors if you want reliability. I feel racist...but the Chinese have given me this amazing hobby. Also, my opinion on ebikes is: 50-60 amps continuous, 60v with 30ah battery, AWD and full suspension make an awesome ebike. 40mph is the fastest I ever want to go on a bike... Plus pas, brake cutoff...all deleted. Keep it simple👍 A store bought ebike would bore me to death.
I like the idea of middrive especially for mountain biking, but chains and cassettes don't stand up well... I also like buying a 30 yr old high quality vintage full suspension bike to diy conversion. Many of these bikes are like NASA quality. 2.3 kenda tires at 55psi is my optimal choice
Buy or DIY..... BOTH!!! When you buy, you get something made to please the widest group of people. When you try to please everyone, you please no one. When deciding on which bike to order, The ability to upgrade was one of the factors. Buying a prebuilt e-bike will get you the styling an frame meant for e-bikes. Admittedly, I have no doubts about my technical skills. That makes upgrading easy for me. So I bought the bike that would do for now and had a frame style that makes upgrading/modifying easy.
Recently bought a used 750w bbs02b im hoping i can disable peddle assist with & the speeed app & a usb programming cable. The cable still in shipping but hoping i can set all the peddle assist percentages to zero. I might need to set assist level 1 to 100% to get the throttle to work. Will find out when the lead turns up. Hate peddle assist just want the throttle & no peddle assist.
Just set power level 1 to 1 and rest of power levels to 0 if what you want for throttle to work in power level 1 and not in other power settings if that's what you want to do.
Diy builders are leading the way to manufacturers, we are constantly innovating. For instance, the ideal series for a 48v system with lifepo4 chemistry is 17S. Don't ask me how I know, I just experimented with it...
@@donolinger6904 top speed and range don’t mix , but it can go 45 to 50 mph on flat , I’ve gone 40+ miles on the single 21s 5p battery aka 20ah 75v, you will not go far doing the top speed however, its not made for wide open throttle non stop, its a 1000w motor
DIY because motor power restrictions make no sense.
We have 1000hp cars on the road but 250, 500w is "too much".
This is a ridiculous
Agreed, the 750W limit in the US is better than some countries that are stuck with 250W but it's still not enough. 1200W is the bare minimum IMO. Anyone looking to build one(that doesn't have past motor cycle experience) should start with a cheap 48V 1500W motor kit from eBay paired with a 52V battery. When they get used to that and want something more upgrade to a 72V+ battery and higher power controller, that 1500W motor will handle up to a 4000W setup normally.
Meanwhile the bike I just got is 8000 watts, yeee haw 🤠
Solid points about manufacturers choices in programming. I do a lot of the same thinking when Im out of rides.
When you have a Cycle Analyst cadence sensor is great. You can put 20 levels.
Génial; ça donne envie d'acheter un BBSHD.
I've been watching this video in parts because I'm busy.
But I just thought of something else.
If I had a job to go to, I would have to commute to town (20+ km) 5 days per week. As it is, there's still times I have to commute to town. I do things illegal when I have to.
There's no bike lanes. There's no sidewalk for 22km. No paved shoulder. The gravel shoulder is often sketchy.
Our government is pressing hard for emissions reductions. Which an E-bike is good for.
For me to commute via E-Bike either I would have to be allowed to hinder traffic or have a bike that could do the posted speed limit for cars.
The government will most likely continue to make e-bikes more expensive. Currently happening with batteries, not just the UL certification but also the tariffs now being imposed . The good thing about doing “illegal things on bicycles” is its usually rolling through a stop sign to preserve momentum when there are no vehicles within sight, or riding on a sidewalk to avoid a dangerous section of road with no shoulder etc. The only people that care about illegal things like that on bicycles are the Karen’s in the comments that have never rode a bike in their life. The police face greater horrors daily and that is why these “illegal things” go unpunished is because its a victimless crime , except to Karen, in which case she believes she is the victim just because she witnessed it online and her limited brain capacity doesn’t understand it.
I agree you want a bike that can go slighty faster than 30 , i fell safer being able to do 40 personally. It can cover 95% of my local traveling. In my opinion its safer going fast. 750w will get you killed , DIY will aways be better in that regard. Unless they lift the 750w limit or more manufacturers start ignoring it or offering faster options, diy will be much better in terms of speed. Right now its like a million companies using bafang fat bike motors. Then a few like lyric cycles and goat power etc that sell bikes that go faster
My BBSHD is on its 3rd bike. I don’t think you mentioned that benefit. Show me a manufactured bike that has done that. You make a comment about cheap(inexpensive) bikes but my bike is full suspension fox components that you would think it would make it heavy but it’s actually only 56lbs with 20s4p pack. I just took my entire cassette apart and my steel freehub body looks like I just bought it after a year of use at 5Kw. My frame is aluminum so what I’m saying is inexpensive is fine but you can really shed some more weight with a good bike that is easily found on Facebook Marketplace. I’m still a fan of diy especially since if the authorities crack down I think the bikes that look like a bike not a manufactured ebike we will fly under the radar for a bit longer.
For power boats, some places require a license/certification to use any engine that is 10hp or more. Same idea.
My understanding is that over the 37 km/h (where I live), one would need a license to ride it.
IMO, if people could just "do as they please", Some people would be doing/making very risky/dangerous stuff.
E-bikes are great for:
1. Regaining personal mobility. I can't have a driving license because I have a seizure disorder. The nearest store to me is 24 km away past two significant hills. I can't just get a ride with someone else when I need to go to town. It would take me 5.5 hrs to walk one way. and one hour on bike. For either, I'd be too tired to move by the time I got there.
I've ordered an e-bike that will get me there and back at 25 km/h and, hopefully, not tired out. I plan to get a generic higher capacity battery right away and build a plug adapter.
As for power, I have to wait and see if I need more power for the hills and/or towing a full trailer.
2. combining exercise and exploration. PAS means one can still have the resistance exercise of a bike while being helped go further and thru harder places. Places s/he wouldn't go without the power assist.
3. combining human power with electric power for even less emissions for commuting or travel.
For the first one, there needs to be a bike that can't be dangerous. And people with known risk factors must be regulated to those.
For the second, posted on road speed limits need to be enforced. Off road, it should be up to one's own courage in risk taking.
For the third, License and speed limits would be needed the same as for gas powered street bikes.
In short, We need different classes of e-bikes for different needs of the owners.
Buying one and modifying it is an option too if you want a specific frame
My problem is finding a frame, I want something with awesome suspension. There's prebuilts that fit but I'd rather build something if I can
I have a cadence sensor on my bike. The sensortivity can be adjusted in the menu from emedietly to 3 sec plus.
Thanks for your thoughts. I like the way your bike sounds- I'm not sure if the mid drive sounds a lot different than a hub motor, but those tires are a big improvement in sound vs knobby treads. Fat tires might be OK for certain conditions, but for everyday use I agree that a 2 to 3 inch tire is better for most bikers. Although I like the look of bikes that conceal batteries in the frame, you raise a valid point about replacing batteries that are configured to fit a specific shape, the inflated prices to replace those batteries, and the inability to choose better batteries than what the manufacturer offers.
I was lucky and got a bike from Candian tire that was upgraded and then sold at 60% off after they upgraded something. I have no idea what they upgraded but I thought 60% and a random upgraded sounds good to me. I do need a battery. I got to 48v lithium pack off amazon, and it turns out my bike pulls more amps than I thought. I recommend building an e-bike but don't cheap out on the battery. Don't want to get stuck in my spot (broke and now I can't upgrade my battery).
Also if your batteries have on/off switches, glue the switches "on"
The danger of batteries is joining two batteries with different voltages. Never let this happen!
Wow, great U Tube as answered many of my questions. 2 yrs ago got a Mars 500W 20" fat tire folder with 60NM torque & 12.5 AH 15A controller that I unlocked for 23mph. Took off the chain, chain ring, derailleur, shifter & cable. Put on a new crankarm set with them rotated to match on the crankshaft. Put 9.5" rise gull wing bars on the folding giraffe telescoping stem with a new motorcycle style seat with real springs & a softest possible setting spring loaded seatpost. I'm 165# so not that heavy. Now with baskets on both ends & saddlebags not rubbed by the chain, I'd like an AWD set up with a 6" extended air fork, 2"-3" tire on a bigger diameter wheel with a direct drive motor maybe for speed & extra hill climbing ability. A separate system completely with the battery & controller for the front in the front basket & a left handed thumb throttle. 35-40 mph is as fast as an unregistered, unlicensed, uninsured eBike should go IMHO. The 3 Classes are in Federal Law making eBikes, as classified, bicycles & consumer products NOT SUBJECT to state motor vehicle codes & the totalitarians can't stand that they can't regulate & tax everyone to death.
As a long time biker for 72 of my 73 years Ima told, there is 1 thing you should seriously consider & fix ASAP. You need at least 1 rear view mirror & 2 are better. You don't want to end up the human filling between 2 cars in a crash. I use bar end mirrors hanging down as my hands are up high at shoulder top height almost.
7:05 maybe do a tutorial how to upgrade BMS on stock battery, just gotta get datasheets
a lot of ebikes with generic high capacity batteries use cells that only do like 5 - 10 amps, so in 4 or 5p they cant do much more than the stock controller requires. If you get an ebike where its got good genuine cells then Yeah possibly might be able to squeeze a few more amps out of it. But idk if worth it to upgrade the bms on a battery just to do a few more amps. Like most of the time if u got some stock ebike battery it can only do 30 amps and thats about it
You are not wrong, I got 10A short burst peak discharge cells in 4P configuration stock, the stock BMS is limited at 25A so I squeezed a 35A smart BMS on it but I only did that because the controller was having issues with 25A BMS... it's now fine, no more cut outs@EBikeBuilder_
ents
Add a comment...
@joeberginc7415
0 seconds ago
I agree with your Chinese statement. I have 4 ebikes all with 3k to 4k watts. 90% of the parts are Chinese and I love the stuff. I do say things like having to replace all the cheap Chinese connectors if you want reliability. I feel racist...but the Chinese have given me this amazing hobby.
Also, my opinion on ebikes is: 50-60 amps continuous, 60v with 30ah battery, AWD and full suspension make an awesome ebike. 40mph is the fastest I ever want to go on a bike... Plus pas, brake cutoff...all deleted. Keep it simple👍
A store bought ebike would bore me to death.
I like the idea of middrive especially for mountain biking, but chains and cassettes don't stand up well... I also like buying a 30 yr old high quality vintage full suspension bike to diy conversion. Many of these bikes are like NASA quality. 2.3 kenda tires at 55psi is my optimal choice
Buy or DIY..... BOTH!!!
When you buy, you get something made to please the widest group of people. When you try to please everyone, you please no one.
When deciding on which bike to order, The ability to upgrade was one of the factors.
Buying a prebuilt e-bike will get you the styling an frame meant for e-bikes.
Admittedly, I have no doubts about my technical skills. That makes upgrading easy for me. So I bought the bike that would do for now and had a frame style that makes upgrading/modifying easy.
Recently bought a used 750w bbs02b im hoping i can disable peddle assist with & the speeed app & a usb programming cable. The cable still in shipping but hoping i can set all the peddle assist percentages to zero. I might need to set assist level 1 to 100% to get the throttle to work. Will find out when the lead turns up. Hate peddle assist just want the throttle & no peddle assist.
Just set power level 1 to 1 and rest of power levels to 0 if what you want for throttle to work in power level 1 and not in other power settings if that's what you want to do.
Diy builders are leading the way to manufacturers, we are constantly innovating. For instance, the ideal series for a 48v system with lifepo4 chemistry is 17S. Don't ask me how I know, I just experimented with it...
I have a 20000w 72v 75ah 200amp controller it goes 75 to 80mph
What's the range and top speed?
@@donolinger6904 top speed and range don’t mix , but it can go 45 to 50 mph on flat , I’ve gone 40+ miles on the single 21s 5p battery aka 20ah 75v, you will not go far doing the top speed however, its not made for wide open throttle non stop, its a 1000w motor
What chain, chainring and cassette are you using?
At the point when you said they’re just getting in the way really caught me off guard and I started cracking up 😅😂
And how much teeth is the chainring and cassette? I see you have a single speed