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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มิ.ย. 2020
- My custom ESP32 PCB for my moon lamp has arrived from JLPCB. I opted to get the board SMT assembled so I only have to solder on the ESP32 module, the header pins and the screw terminals.
The board works really well, I was slightly worried about the power regulator as I'd skimped slightly on the output filtering capacitors swapping the tantalum caps for ceramic. But that doesn't seem to have made an impact on the functionality.
The ESP32 is the brains of the operation and has a built-in Web UI that you can use to change the brightness of the Red, Green and Blue channels of the 3W LED.
You can learn how that works in this video: • ESP32 HTTP Web Server ...
It also featured Over The Air (OTA) updates - you can learn how to do this here: • ESP32 Over The Air (OT...
I'll do a more in-depth video on the software later.
There are detailed videos on the prototyping of the electronics, schematic design and PCB layout here:
Prototype Electronics - • Driving an RGB LED fro...
Schematic Design - • ESP32 RGB LED Driver C...
PCB Layout - • Custom ESP32 PCB: Layo...
Hope you enjoy this video as much as I enjoyed making it - there will be more projects coming so please subscribe to the channel by clicking here: / @atomic14
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Interested in ESP32 Audio: th-cam.com/play/PL5vDt5AALlRfGVUv2x7riDMIOX34udtKD.html
Looking for all my ESP32 projects: th-cam.com/play/PL5vDt5AALlRdN2KyL30l8j7kLCxhDUrNw.html
Get you some desodering braid and flux, works wonders
If you use a thinner solder wire you have better control over the amount of solder and most likely don't have to correct so much with the solder sucker.
Quite right - I did another board recently with much thinner solder and it was a lot easier - th-cam.com/video/mGHrxK5xrUU/w-d-xo.html
I'm making an alarm project using an esp32 which is controlled via android with bluetooth and a 5Ah battery as a power supply. my problem is how to reduce the current consumption so that my battery lasts a long time without having to use the sleep mode method.
Do you solder anything underneath esp32-module? I've seen documentation suggests a thermal ground pad below the module
There is a thermal pad. According to Esspresif it's optional - you will get better thermal performance if you solder it, but it's not required.
@@atomic14 ok...thank you!
I have some 10w RGB COB LEDs which need different voltages for each individual colour, why dont yours and where can i get them?
I'm using 3W modules off eBay - the actual listing I got them from seems to have expired but the forward voltages were Red: 2.6, Green, Blue: 3.4 And the current Red: 400ma, Green, Blue: 350mA. My working assumption was that it kind of balanced out, with the red channel having a lower voltage drop, but higher forward current. If you wanted you could give each channel a different resistor value to fine tune the current for each color.
Why did you have them presolder all components excepts the esp32? Was it not available at the time?
Yes, this was before they supported the ESP32 in their parts library. They do it now along with a lot more components including USB connectors.
coming from the future: JLCPCB won't assemble ESP32s with the cheaper multi-customer assembly process, so you either have to pay more or do it yourself
Question on the PCB design.
So I am making my own dev board using the ESP32, and I was wondering what the purpose of the resistors and caps at the top left of your board for? At 0:43.
Also, nice video!
Thanks! I'm glad you like it.
One of the capacitors is a bypass capacitor - see here in section 4 for details - www.espressif.com/sites/default/files/documentation/esp-wroom-02_pcb_design_and_module_placement_guide_0.pdf
The other Resistor Capacitor pair is on the enable line as recommended here in section 3 here - www.espressif.com/sites/default/files/documentation/esp32_hardware_design_guidelines_en.pdf
I believe it is there to add a short delay to the chip starting up while the power line stabilises.
Good luck with your board - post a link to it when it is finished!
@@atomic14 how come you have no button with EN and Boot then?
@@thilotech For programming I tie GPIO0 low which puts it into programming mode on power-up.
It's not as convenient as having buttons, but once I've flashed the board with the first sketch I use over the air updates. So unless I brick the board I don't normally need to put it into programming mode.
The next board I build I will put a USB interface on it and set it up so that it goes into programming mode automatically as that is a lot more convenient even if you aren't doing it very often.
@@atomic14 But what aobut the EN pin? Don't you need to pull that one low too?
@@thilotech Provided you have GPIO0 held low when the board boots it will go into programming mode. You can trigger a reboot by taking the EN pin low or just by removing power.
so how hot do those current limit resistors get ;)
Pretty toasty if you run it at full whack :) But I’m only cranking it up to around 70% as it’s pretty bright.
@@atomic14 yea i know the problem but this is the easy way of controlling a high pwr rgb led
Please share the pcb file
Do you know any possible reasons why when I connect my esp32 board to the USB UART connection all the LEDs on the USB UART turn off and nothing happens? Is there a short circuit somewhere or do I need to connect any other connections together? The connections are the same from this video and I connected pin 0 to ground for the programming part and I have a similar PCB design as yours.
I can send you more information if needed.
@@debatestuff6897 If you can share the schematic you are using then I'll take a quick look. It definitely sounds like some kind of short circuit.
@@atomic14 Ok thank you. i.imgur.com/9RabJ3v.png - here is the link to an image of the schematic, and here is the link to the EasyEDA project file easyeda.com/join?type=project&key=0a3e334f8dd04178923e8224b411e923.
@@debatestuff6897 I can see a DRC error on the PCB imgur.com/a/RFlEOnP it looks like the 5V line is connected to GND. Double-check this on your side to make sure it's not just my view of the project. Also worth double-checking on the PCB - just do a continuity check between 5V and GND.
@@atomic14 Oh I do see actually continuity between the 5V and GND. I think I just made a wiring mistake on the PCB sketch is there any way to salvage this? I still have a 3.3V input directly to the ESP32 so I can work around the regulator.
Why not order with the esp already soldered on?
This video was made before JLCPCB offered it as a SMD component.
1. The PCB has thermal or ground pad at the centre. Assuming that you had designed the PCB that way, why did not you solder the ground pad?
2. There is a some Brazilian or some foreign guy TH-cam channel that solders things, and in that guy's video, he just apply a lot of flux and then simply glide the soldering iron on the SMD pins. Does it not work at the guy shows? I mean, if it works, why are you soldering each pin one by one taking a lot of time?
With the ESP32 the ground pad doesn't need to be soldered - there is some thermal efficiency gained, but it doesn't make a huge difference - www.esp32.com/viewtopic.php?t=1864
The gliding the soldering iron only works for surface mount pins - the ESP32 modules have castellated holes - there's a good video here that walks through in details how to solder them th-cam.com/video/rGvvwXrv310/w-d-xo.html
You forgot to solder the ground UNDER THE CHIP For cooling.
With the ESP32 the ground pad doesn't need to be soldered - there is some thermal efficiency gained, but it doesn't make a huge difference - www.esp32.com/viewtopic.php?t=1864
Nice job, would you sell few boards?
I've got a couple of spare boards you can have if the postage is not too much - you should be able to contact me from the channel page.
use flux
Nice project. Since your PCB has solder mask, paste flux and drag soldering should get your SMD soldering for the ESP32 down under a minute.
Next time use flux - and all is fine and u dont need to fix something
Dude you're crazy, why in the world you're not using flux... this isn't some childish LED soldering where flux isn't needed. If you used some good flux, you don't need to "redo/refix" the soldered bridges, with flux you only solder once and go.
Thanks for the tips - you might like the follow up video - th-cam.com/video/mGHrxK5xrUU/w-d-xo.html