In-Depth Guide to Leather Antique
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.พ. 2023
- In this video, Daniel Reach from the Leatherverse takes us on a deep dive into all things antique! The two primary reasons we use antique are to accentuate a stamping or tooling design, and to add depth to our leather project. Depending on the look you're going for, you can antique before or after you seal your leather for totally different results.
Fiebing's Antique Finish: www.weaverleathersupply.com/p...
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I’ve been doing leather for about 5 years off and on, still a intermediate beginner, I have enjoyed and learned so much from you it ‘s unquestionable. If you had classes I’d be first to apply! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and artistic abilities. Please don’t stop! Forever grateful
Nobody at my local shop told me to seal before antiquing, resulting in some ruined projects, luckily they were small, and a lot of frustration. Thanks for the enlightenment, you folks at Weaver are amazing!
That's the first I've ever heard of it. Chuck never does!
Daniel, I just did my first antique job on a project and it totally did not do what I wanted after watching this I know why and how to fix it. Thank you so much!
That is exactly why I love teaching! I'm so glad to hear it helped!
I use Angelus acrylic finish, then Angelus antique followed by another coat or two of the acrylic finish. I have been experimenting with the Angelus neutral antique mixed with acrylic paint and have been very pleased. The first layer of finish really needs to dry thoroughly. For me that is the main thing. I then wipe off the antique immediately.
Great information!! Keep those videos coming!!! Thank you!
Thank you for this!
Of course! Happy to help!
I literally just bought some antique today LOL! Glad I saw this before I started...
It's hard to mess it up, but it's possible. 😄 Glad I could help.
Another great video Daniel. I have great results with these exact steps BUT only if I am patient enough to let them dry,Patience is the key to a great finish.
Fantastic point! Totally agree.
Thank you!💙
Thank you for the great video 🌵
That map is just awesome!!!😸
Thank you!
Very good video. Thank you
My pleasure! Glad it was useful!
I would like to add is that the depth of your tooling will make a big difference. Regardless of the type of antique you choose.
Great point!
Much needed video
Glad it helped!
@@DanielReachCreations so I recently made a holster and I bought some leather balm to use as a top coat. So I applied and removed the excess antique and then immediately applied the leather balm and it seemed to have removed some of the antique. How long should I wait to apply the leather balm after antiquing
@Cade Watkins I usually wait about 20 min before I buff it, but I don't use leather balm. And, I use just enough to dampen the paper towel. You might experiment with using less or waiting longer. If you don't want it to remove any, feel free to let it sit over night... just know that it's REALLY going to adhere to the leather. So get it to a place you like.... let it sit over night, then buff it.
That felt like a rambling answer. Did that make sense?
@@DanielReachCreations so basically just wait longer
@@cadewatkins5226 That should definitely work. 😄
Always appreciate your instruction and guidelines. Enjoy the learning my man. Keep the, coming. Question about sealer though. Not much research from me but is there a matte sealant as I a, it a fan of the gloss Resolene finish?
Yes! Great question! I'm not a fan of glossy leather either. Krylon or Rustoleum Matte sealer (like you get at Home Depot) work great. Just put multiple light coats. Very light.
Been having issues with the antique paste flaking back out of the grooves once the the leather starts being used/flexed. What makes this happen and how can I help prevent it?
not the same energy as chuck but your videos are just as fun to watch. And id be doing a disservice if i didnt mention that your videos so far feature a tad bit more info.
I totally get what you're saying about the energy. It's a thin line between being upbeat and energetic.... and fake. Sometimes you hit the mark, sometimes you're a little low key. This one turned out a little more on the low key side just because there was sooooo much information in it. I really do try to keep the energy level up without sounding fake. Chuck is a natural at it.
@@DanielReachCreations And as he has admitted. COFFEE. lots of coffee XD. I think theres a different pace and energy for everyone. Both got higher for chuck the older he's gotten (having seen some of his first weaver videos vs now). You are admittedly a bit easier to follow BECAUSE you are not at chucks level of pace and energy. In my personal opinion though, a slower pace with obvious "love of the craft" is what makes a good video (a good example is the host of 18th Century cooking here on youtube). Lookin forward to the next one and I'll see ya this wednesday if you are around for the live.
@JRTime Thank you! Hearing all of that is very encouraging. I'll definitely see you Wednesday!
Thank you for this . I didnt know you needed to seal it first then antique on a piece thats not painted at all. No wonder the dye comes off when i put it on. Very helpfull,
Happy to help!
Just so we're on the same page. The sealer acts as a resist so the antique doesn't color the leather...it just sits in the low spots.
Sealer will lock in the dye better, and help prevent rub off. Key word....help... not prevent totally. 😉
@@DanielReachCreations yep same page thank you
But if you wanted to both color and add depth with the antique, would you seal first? I am thinking no.
Good tip on the sealing after the antique with just a light paper towel. I used a dauber for my Tan Kote sealer application after antiquing and it removed too much of the antique. Next time I will just use a paper towel and lightly apply. Or maybe I will try the aerosol…
@@sharont10 I've sealed before painting and after and haven't seen a difference.
Can you airbrush the sealer?
Is it possible to airbrush resolene?
You definitely can. You'll need high air pressure...45psi or higher, do it outside while wearing a respirator, and clean your airbrush immediately after your done.
I feel you have answered all of the Hidden fears of antiquing projects. 😅
Check out The Leatherverse
Thanks for the mention!
Good info, but a lot of us would rather see Chuck presenting this, not random people we have not heard of. You've built a very loyal fan base here around your best instructor and presenter.
I second this opinion. No explanation, no introduction, no anything. I am here to watch Chuck, and learn some more about Leather Craft while I am here.
There was an intro video introducing this award winning artist. I recommend going back and watching it. These videos have been great. But if you only want chuck, just scroll past the non chuck videos....
I glad someone said it...
I didn't want Weaver to get made at me... lol
Wow , was the info good? Yes it was Chuck has not been replaced this is another voice with talent and wisdom. There is only one YT guy I won't listen to and I will never mention who he is online if you don't like a guy scroll past.
Glad someone else said it! 100% agree
Daniel, I did my first Tooling Project and then decided to use antique black to give my project depth. I first covered the leather with Pure Neatsfoot Oil to seal my project. After it dried, I only had British Tan; Light Tan; Black and Neutral Antiques. I thought if I used the Tans I wouldn’t get the depth I wanted. I decided to use the Black Antique from Weaver. I added the Black Antique and let it dry for thirty minutes then took an old towel and buffed the project to remove what I could of the Black Antique. In hindsight, I should have left the project bare. The project is very dark. Is there anything I can do at this late stage to remove the Black Antique or put a lighter Antique over what’s there? Best regards, Richard
That turquoise gel antique, is it available product or selfmade?
That was Fiebing's Antique Finish in Neutral mixed with Angelus paint in Turquoise! Here is the video: th-cam.com/video/gY75DzBdAkI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=67b-j6Heu2tN4FMV It's around the seven minute mark!
Just a comment to keep the algorithm going.
I really appreciate your tips and tricks. 👍🏻
Much appreciated!
HOW LONG DO YOU LET THE TAN KOTE DRY BEFORE ANTIQUING THE PROJECT
I don't have tan kote, can I use bees wax?
It wouldn't be my first choice. There are a lot easier options out there, but.... having never tried it myself....I would say probably. Just test it before you try it on a project.
Tan Kote, Resolene, Neat Lac, Leather Sheen, Super Sheen, are all viable options.
I started off using rosolene as my resist. Then I was told a product called "mop and glo" is essentially the same thing but exponentially cheaper. And it is what I use now. It's a cheap floor polish for wood. I always get it at my local dollar store
@@jackpetty7379 I might have some of that laying around the house somewhere
@@jackpetty7379 I've heard of that but never tried it. You get pretty good results with it?
My method is basically the same, except I make my own antique finish. It’s made of artist’s oil paint, alkyd gel and cobalt drier.
The fact that this was recommended DIRECTLY after Chuck's video on antiquing is hilariously ironic.
I want that lamp behind you there.
Can I send you my bark brown leather briefcase (my name laser engraved) for you to do my name in gold?
Where is CHUCK? Who are these random people doing Weaver Leather videos? CHUCK is Weaver Leather.
Ha ha just because you have not been paying attention does not make them random. There is a video introducing this award winning artist. Or maybe it was on the beginning of the first collaboration video? Even chuck, before we learned about him, was just some random person.
@@jasonduggan2987 Do you always feel the need to make a comment to someone who’s not even speaking to you?
Public forum. You were speaking to the public. I am part of the public. You were speaking to me......