Compared to the many other 3 series tutorial videos yours is by far better and this makes me more confident in replacing mine on my E36 thanks so much!
I agree with Zach on the brakes. I had HORRIBLE vibrations and replaced the rotors and pads (pads were about 60% used but I like to replace them as a set) and now it is as smooth as silk. While doing the brakes I noticed my right tie-rod was toast, so now I'll be doing that too.. Thanks for the vid
Z-Man. You're a good kid. You've saved me hundreds with you DIY videos. I also use FCPEuro now for my parts. I'm making a donation to Wounded Warriors in your name for all the bucks you've saved me.
Nice work Zach. This helped me alot today when I did both sides in about 2 hours. I had the newer style boot that needed the old tie rod to be hacked in two which caused a delay and the two prong separator broke on me (HF junk). I used the heavy duty sepatator in the kit from HF . .will be returning tomorrow for a refund! My steering vibration while stopped was greatly reduced, steering response is back, no more clunks, and steering vibration on the highway is almost unnoticeable as well.
I'm following you! great video! I like how you actually SHOWED what you were doing as you were doing it and put different views to show what you were doing. Saved me some money! Upload as many vids as you can bro!
Great video, thank you for posting. I wish I had watched it before ordering parts, I only ordered the tie-rod ends. Ugh, hopefully I can swap them out for complete tie-rods. Live and learn.
Top tip from Edd China on Wheeler Dealers: when changing tie rods, count how many full rotations you make to unscrew the old tie rods - this helps with proper alignment later on with the new tie rods screwed in just as the old ones were originallly set up.
THANK YOU SOOO MUCH, from the valve cover gasket video, and know this, all my answers have been answered, though my car is an e39 im pretty sure the same concept is applied.
Vibration, especially when braking means the rotors are warped. Noise could be caused by the same problem, or a loose/miss-fit/ missing "anti Rattle Clip". Good luck!
Zach, great video. it's a great help. I've been get scraping noise and vibration on my front-end...it sounds like the pads are scraping against the rotors (but I don't think it's the case). most of the action is coming from the driver side. the scraping noise is prominent when driven under 30 mph. would you be able to give some hints as what's causing the noise and vibration?
very nice, informative and very well explained 🖒 thanks I have to do this to mine for mot now at least I will save money rather than paying for garage expenses.
Thank you so much. I have a question about your video. The length of this video is 7 mins 7 secs and at 5 mins 30 secs, you pull tie rod from the other side. Why ? Is it important that both tie rods be replaced at the same time ?
Excellent video. Quick question though. I just did the tie rods, control arms and bushings, and sway bar end links but my steering wheel ended up severely crocked (half to hold it facing to the right to drive straight). Is this something that will be fixed when I get my alignment done? Thanks
That's brilliant, thank you. I have to cha he my steering rack, you haven't got a video for that have you? Or any hints or tips? Keep up the good work!
Hello!liked the video, very focused, I am wondering though...I`m experiencing that noise and minor steering wheel play,mecanic thought it`s the rack,but didn`t remove the boots on the inner ball joint.could be the fault?thank you!
Thanks good video , I did myself too but after run the car a little noise come from there I have appointment to balancing I hope the noise desapare any advice , thanks
@czerwiec04 I found two things, One, the rubber gloves normally tear on sharp edges. And the mechanics cloth gloves usually get caught on a edge too, but it just gets your hand stuck :)
Hey Zach! Another great video-keep up good work! BTW - you never seem to wear gloves or anything to protect your hands from grease and dirt-is that because of personal preference or you just like skin on metal feel :D
Kingof484: If the "collar" of the inner tie rod is really tight, then mere channel lock pliers will not work too well as you have to apply an enormous amount of hand pressure gripping the pliers simultaneously trying to turn the "collar" loose. That is a difficult situation. I just used a big adjustable wrench, just big enough to still fit in the limited space as my car was not on lifters but just on jack-stands. As Zach states, make sure you are turning counter clockwise when trying to loosen the inner tie rod (as in usual cases). Good luck as I just finished installing mine this afternoon.
Is this the same exact thing for e36's? Im about to order a complete 5 piece overhaul kit from you guys. Does the promo code work with the spring10 code as well?
There is a good chance that the tie rod is bad. The easiest way to diagnose is to jack-up the car and move the tire left to right and feel for any movement in the tie rod. But a torn booth and vibration. Good Luck! - Zach
I have a 2005 ZHP I tried to replace my right tie rod but came into one huge problem....your DIY says you used a 20mm wrench. That's not even close to fitting the inner tie rod. Do you know how big of a wrench I actually need? I am waiting on my tie rod in the mail and I would like to have the old one off before it arrives.
@dansingha1 I happend to change the two at the same time, but I only recorded the Right side. I think maybe you mistook the camera position for switching sides. :D
i`ve got the same puller but i can not remove the rod. it does not pop up? scared to damage the screw. what u think? puller doesn`t stay straight on it...
The comment on the "dented brake dust shield", use a ball-joint puller made by OEM. I rented one at Pop Boys. It fits just fine within the limited space, without scratching much less denting the the shield. Note that the label on the package of the puller is "tie rod end" puller when you buy/rent the tool.
Took my E46 M3 to a shop for tie rod replacement and they told me in order to do so i must also replace complete rack assembly. I was under the impression you could in fact just replace the tie rod? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
You can say that again. People don't know what they're getting into with these cars. You better have cash or be a DIY guy cause major or minor issues add up in with parts and labor. I love my ///M but omfg i had no idea how much money can add up on theses but you live and you learn. Thanks guys
what are the symtoms of a bad tie rod? i been geting some vibration on my steering wheel when im driving at 70 to 80 mph!!! i checked the tie rod last night and i notice the boot has a crack or hole!!! and when i do a left u turn i get a scraping noise like a grinder noise!!
I think 60-80,000 is about average for mine. I've put almost 200,000 on the car so far (car has almost 300,000 now. Good thing, every part is lifetime warranty through FCPEuro.com ! ! !
Also, at 5:29 I noticed the tie rod assembly was being pulled back inside towards the car. Did you at some point in the beginning pullout the rack where the inner tie rod attaches to?
Did you release the locking tab with a chisel first? And it may sound silly. but make sure you're shining in the correct direction. Email for more help! millertimebmw@hotmail.com
Compared to the many other 3 series tutorial videos yours is by far better and this makes me more confident in replacing mine on my E36 thanks so much!
I agree with Zach on the brakes. I had HORRIBLE vibrations and replaced the rotors and pads (pads were about 60% used but I like to replace them as a set) and now it is as smooth as silk. While doing the brakes I noticed my right tie-rod was toast, so now I'll be doing that too.. Thanks for the vid
Z-Man. You're a good kid. You've saved me hundreds with you DIY videos. I also use FCPEuro now for my parts. I'm making a donation to Wounded Warriors in your name for all the bucks you've saved me.
Nice work Zach. This helped me alot today when I did both sides in about 2 hours. I had the newer style boot that needed the old tie rod to be hacked in two which caused a delay and the two prong separator broke on me (HF junk). I used the heavy duty sepatator in the kit from HF . .will be returning tomorrow for a refund!
My steering vibration while stopped was greatly reduced, steering response is back, no more clunks, and steering vibration on the highway is almost unnoticeable as well.
I'm following you! great video! I like how you actually SHOWED what you were doing as you were doing it and put different views to show what you were doing. Saved me some money! Upload as many vids as you can bro!
Thanks !!!
Real talk. Best video on this topic. Well explained and the footage is what was the best
Great video, thank you for posting. I wish I had watched it before ordering parts, I only ordered the tie-rod ends. Ugh, hopefully I can swap them out for complete tie-rods. Live and learn.
Thnx for the great video. This is just one of several that you made that has helped me a lot in repair/replacements in my car.Thnx.!
that was the smoothest diy tierod video lol... thanx
Great video. Thank you
really like how you explained the steps with tools
Top tip from Edd China on Wheeler Dealers: when changing tie rods, count how many full rotations you make to unscrew the old tie rods - this helps with proper alignment later on with the new tie rods screwed in just as the old ones were originallly set up.
Nice. Great camera angle and lighting.
what a nice instructional video, this is such a nice tutorial, this is how its done!
Thanks for instructions. I just did it in E36. It's just like in your video.
made it look so easy, I will install my own! save myself lots of cash! Great video!
+Mario Gonzalez Glad to hear!
The best explained DIY video by far, nice work m8 helped me out hugely :)
Great video very informative and saves a lot of money. Also great tips during the video.
THANK YOU SOOO MUCH, from the valve cover gasket video, and know this, all my answers have been answered, though my car is an e39 im pretty sure the same concept is applied.
Vibration, especially when braking means the rotors are warped. Noise could be caused by the same problem, or a loose/miss-fit/ missing "anti Rattle Clip". Good luck!
Zach, great video. it's a great help.
I've been get scraping noise and vibration on my front-end...it sounds like the pads are scraping against the rotors (but I don't think it's the case). most of the action is coming from the driver side. the scraping noise is prominent when driven under 30 mph. would you be able to give some hints as what's causing the noise and vibration?
very nice, informative and very well explained 🖒 thanks I have to do this to mine for mot now at least I will save money rather than paying for garage expenses.
Thank you so much. I have a question about your video. The length of this video is 7 mins 7 secs and at 5 mins 30 secs, you pull tie rod from the other side. Why ?
Is it important that both tie rods be replaced at the same time ?
very nice work,Zach,keep doing this!
Zak good vid as always! How much is the set torque for locking the rods? Thanks
Good Job with the explanation and the clear video..
Excellent video. Quick question though. I just did the tie rods, control arms and bushings, and sway bar end links but my steering wheel ended up severely crocked (half to hold it facing to the right to drive straight). Is this something that will be fixed when I get my alignment done? Thanks
Dude, you did a great job with video. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks man.
LKDJOIE Hey thanks so much!
Very informative I gotta replace mines already looking to do it next couple weeks when the weather gets nice ☺
Samuel Badillo Awesome, let me know if I can help! Good Luck
Excellent video and easy to understand, keep up the great work - Cheers
thanks for sharing your video, great job explaining the process and tools required
Great vid, thanks. Will be doing this job this weekend
Great straight forward video thanks
Very generous of you! Thanks!
Thanks man clear explanation and instruction... Awesome
Is this car a e46 bmw? I see a drive shaft to the front wheels. Not sure. Good video though. Helped me alot. Thank you
That's brilliant, thank you. I have to cha he my steering rack, you haven't got a video for that have you? Or any hints or tips? Keep up the good work!
Thank you ... Where do I get the parts from ? any site you recoomend.
Yes it is 100% the same! And Yes that code will work, Good luck!
Hello!liked the video, very focused, I am wondering though...I`m experiencing that noise and minor steering wheel play,mecanic thought it`s the rack,but didn`t remove the boots on the inner ball joint.could be the fault?thank you!
Thank You so much. Great info. Very helpful. Thanks again.
Great vid. What bmw is this? Front wheel drive e46? 330ix?
Great job Miller.
How I can to measure exactly the new tie rod if the old is broken?
+Luis Lainfiesta Can you measure the turns it takes to remove it?
Thanks good video , I did myself too but after run the car a little noise come from there I have appointment to balancing I hope the noise desapare any advice , thanks
@czerwiec04 I found two things, One, the rubber gloves normally tear on sharp edges. And the mechanics cloth gloves usually get caught on a edge too, but it just gets your hand stuck :)
do you have a video on lower control arm replacement, E36, i replaced my valve cover gasket because of your tutition yesterday and wanna say thanks.
please keep up the good work soon it will cost me nothing for repairs haha
Hey Zach! Another great video-keep up good work! BTW - you never seem to wear gloves or anything to protect your hands from grease and dirt-is that because of personal preference or you just like skin on metal feel :D
Excellent guide
great video man,how much does this usually cost at a shop for parts and labor?
Kingof484: If the "collar" of the inner tie rod is really tight, then mere channel lock pliers will not work too well as you have to apply an enormous amount of hand pressure gripping the pliers simultaneously trying to turn the "collar" loose. That is a difficult situation. I just used a big adjustable wrench, just big enough to still fit in the limited space as my car was not on lifters but just on jack-stands. As Zach states, make sure you are turning counter clockwise when trying to loosen the inner tie rod (as in usual cases). Good luck as I just finished installing mine this afternoon.
Is this the same exact thing for e36's? Im about to order a complete 5 piece overhaul kit from you guys. Does the promo code work with the spring10 code as well?
There is a good chance that the tie rod is bad. The easiest way to diagnose is to jack-up the car and move the tire left to right and feel for any movement in the tie rod. But a torn booth and vibration. Good Luck! - Zach
thanks for the video ... it really helped me
I have a 2005 ZHP I tried to replace my right tie rod but came into one huge problem....your DIY says you used a 20mm wrench. That's not even close to fitting the inner tie rod. Do you know how big of a wrench I actually need? I am waiting on my tie rod in the mail and I would like to have the old one off before it arrives.
hey man i cant take off one of the tie rods since the nut isnt reachable. How did you move the steering rod like you did in the video?? please man
@dansingha1 I happend to change the two at the same time, but I only recorded the Right side. I think maybe you mistook the camera position for switching sides. :D
Yes they do, they lock the inner to the steering rack. - Zach
Is the e46 similar to a e39? Great video!
That's video very helpful. Thank you so much.
i`ve got the same puller but i can not remove the rod. it does not pop up? scared to damage the screw. what u think? puller doesn`t stay straight on it...
Thank You,great video!
Very well done. Thanks.
There is a locking tab I used a hammer to fold the locking collar into place. No need for loctite. :) - Zach
Is there any reason to change out the entire rack if it is not leaking?
Great vid thanks
Are there any torque specs that I need to observe for the inner and outer tie rod connections?
The comment on the "dented brake dust shield", use a ball-joint puller made by OEM. I rented one at Pop Boys. It fits just fine within the limited space, without scratching much less denting the the shield. Note that the label on the package of the puller is "tie rod end" puller when you buy/rent the tool.
Took my E46 M3 to a shop for tie rod replacement and they told me in order to do so i must also replace complete rack assembly. I was under the impression you could in fact just replace the tie rod? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Micro Beast just the inner and out tie rod like in The video here
Never go back to that shop.
Micro Beast I hate it that they see us in bmws and think were automatically made out of money
Micro Beast that's why its best to learn small diagnostics of mechanical failures and jus maintence
You can say that again. People don't know what they're getting into with these cars. You better have cash or be a DIY guy cause major or minor issues add up in with parts and labor. I love my ///M but omfg i had no idea how much money can add up on theses but you live and you learn. Thanks guys
Just got my parts from oembimmerparts
About to give it a go!
Thanks for the clear, simple instructions
Is this the inner and outer tie rods?
Super video. Cheers mate.
what are the symtoms of a bad tie rod? i been geting some vibration on my steering wheel when im driving at 70 to 80 mph!!! i checked the tie rod last night and i notice the boot has a crack or hole!!! and when i do a left u turn i get a scraping noise like a grinder noise!!
thank you very much, I served much the video
very helpful video....
Good tut is that e46 4wheel drive
Great video :)
Nice video, great explanation! However, I find that zip-ties only last 1-2 years before they break form the engine heat and elements.
+Eddie Padilla I keep an eye on mine and they are still in tact. but you raise a good point.
Cool you have a xi? I see a driveshaft
How many miles were on the vehicle at the time? what do you think is a typical life expectancy?
I think 60-80,000 is about average for mine. I've put almost 200,000 on the car so far (car has almost 300,000 now. Good thing, every part is lifetime warranty through FCPEuro.com ! ! !
@@millertimebmw yeah I love FCPeuro. They dont sell junk. Thanks for the input.
Also, at 5:29 I noticed the tie rod assembly was being pulled back inside towards the car. Did you at some point in the beginning pullout the rack where the inner tie rod attaches to?
+rednightist - @millertimebmw - can you pls. elaborate on this comment? Thanks!
hi where u buy the tie rod and how much the cost
Thanks!
LOCTITE. I'd put couple drops of loctite on the tie rod bolt where it screws into the rack bar.
fantastic
Is this the same setup as a 1996 E36 328ic? The dealer wants $602.00
Perfect
It will become perfectly straight after the alignment, or it should !! - Zach
@7674Princess You can do this too, even on an E38!!! :)
the e36 has locking plates for safety. the e46 doesnt?
does anyone know where to buy the little cap for the dust boot? I got a new dust boot that didn't come with a cap and my old one is destroyed
is this job the same on an e36
Very informative, but, you forgot to apply some thread lock and some grease the ball of the inner tie rod.
Haha same kind of question, would this work for a 94 325i?
+Jordan Clay Yes, it's the same process :D
I cant get the inner tie rod off. Channel locks are not working, Im just rounding the nut. any advice?
Did you release the locking tab with a chisel first? And it may sound silly. but make sure you're shining in the correct direction. Email for more help! millertimebmw@hotmail.com
@iimprezu I thought the same thing. I checked my rack (no indents like the e36) and checked realoem.com too and didn't see them.
Thanks for watching!
Just turn the wheel to the side you want to work on :)
how tight should you wrench those nuts? just hand tight?
Install wheel arch also :)
Yup, sure is. :)