Essential Mini Lathe Tools And Accessories
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- Mini lathes are one of the most versatile machines that one can have access to in a workshop. They can turn parts, cut threads, bore and drill holes and can be set up to do basic milling operations. However it must be said that the range of tooling and accessories can be overwhelming at first, and can become a big expense very quickly.
Thankfully to do basic lathe work, you only need to purchase a small amount of tooling and the rest can be acquired later down the road when they are needed, or when the tooling budget allows for it.
This is a list of some of the useful tooling I have acquired for my Sieg C3 7x14 mini lathe. Cheers.
I have a strong magnet on the side of the head stock of my pillar drill and I haven't lost a chuck key for years 😉 . A very useful and informative video, thank you.
Great tips and well explained. I am returning to hobby machining now that I am retired. Great videos, thanks. I have my first Chinese mini lathe and now on a learning curve.
Just got a lathe, know nothing, but will learn. Thanks for the content of this video.
Same, got mini lathe Seig C3 and know nothing, thinking to convert to CNC lol
Bought myself a Proxxon PD250/E last week. Whatever I thought I knew about lathes came from watching others. Now there's no excuse left anymore than to delve into it myself.
Of course, no mini-workshop would be complete without a mill, next to a lathe. So, I also bought a mini-mill from Proxxon. Should arrive today.
This has been the most helpful and extremely info dense to-the-point video on mini lathes. Thank you soooo much for putting this together.
I’m considering buying a mini lathe for small projects and repairs on bikes, and this is a really good source of information.
best video for beginner in mini lathe machining
This is great info, thanks! I'm shopping for a lathe soon, and this content helps me know better what I'm going to need.
I watched this video twice just too make sure I didn't miss anything. Very informative! Thank you!
Thank you. Just starting up the learning curve on a Craftsman 101!
I just bought a brand new mini lathe and this information has been very helpful! 👍🏽
th-cam.com/video/PywbeDE7NGA/w-d-xo.html
Very good advice.
If you always misplace your jacobs chuck key stick a magnet somewhere on top of the lathe and just always stick the key to it.
I have a slot in the pegboard to store it between uses. 9 times out of 10 I remember to put it back. That 1 time though when I forget though, always useful to have the end a bright colour to help it stand out when it gets lost. Cheers.
you opened up the video talking about how versatile this tool is. I make jewelry out of exotic wood and pine cones with a 7x12 palmgren mini medal lathe 😁
That's pretty cool!
I've been thinking of getting a small lathe and I wasn't sure what I'd need to go with it so thanks. Very useful video for me, if you think I will need anything else please let me know. 10/10
Hi Mate, to always keep track of your Jacobs chuck key fix a magnet to the side of your machine head and ALWAYS put your chuck back on the magnet when finished!
Not a bad idea :)
I use magnets for the same thing on lots of my tools. I have a "Dummy cord" attaching my chuck key on the back end of my lathe. Now, it's impossible even for me to lose. 😂
Excellent tips and tools. I've used my mini lathe a few times for a couple of metal pens but haven't used it in over a year...I do need to get a few other tools and accessories for sure...I've yet to put the quick change tool post holder onto my lathe, however I know that's part of the issue I'm having is the tool post holder that comes with the lathe is very limiting and time consuming to adjust.
th-cam.com/video/PywbeDE7NGA/w-d-xo.html
thumbs up, i will be back to watch this and other videos....You did a great job and explained clearly the importance of what is presented.
Glad it was helpful! Cheers
I did find this video useful, thank you
Excellent video! Thanks for posting!
well it's a lathe th-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
Very interesting and instructive video, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Cheers
Glad you enjoyed it, Cheers
Hello I got me a db200. Because my shop is only 10 wide x 16 with 6’ garage style door. Not a lot of room. Have mig welder ,drill press, band saw, 2’x3’ steel fab table with 2” holes. Made by Klutch. Good table for money. Nice tool chest. And no room left. Lol. But that’s one reason got Unimat.it was old but brand new. A dr bought it in the early 60s and never used it. Got it from his estate sale. Had some good extra goodies. And the original wood box. Wasn’t rusty or scratched up. Wow. Got it for 500$ us. Has milling attachments. So I’m working with it I’ve bought some upgrades for it dail holder when in mill set up. Makes a dro. Quick turn screws to slide tail stock and head stock. Extra mx70 cross slide table from proxxon. Little but nice. Little carbide cut set. Harbor freight. Now get quick tool holder and go to town. Thinking of building a big garage for ole lady’s car and other stuff so my little building would just be little shop. Free up lot room. Air compressor stuff be in big garage just pipe into little shop. Just thinking u know how that goes. Anyway love the channel. Stay safe from ur ole WV hillbilly buddy.
Great Content!! Very informative, although I wouldn't recomend to mark parts with that type of calipers because you can damage them, you can find parallel marking gauge vernier calipers that are made for this task
Cheers. About the calipers, I would agree with you that I would never use my expensive calipers as marking scribes, but I don't have an issue with using my cheaper ones as marking scribes. The steel is hardened on the ones I use, so they are pretty resistant to wear.
@@artisanmakes ,
Please provide the address for this mini lathe dealer/distributor, in *Indonesia* .
Great video. 👍
thanks for the education
Great video. Great voice over
Missed one - a light. You can't have too much illumination on your work.
Live on forest?
Great video! Keep up the great content!
i know this is a bit off topic, but i just have to give some appreciation for the fact that the music is listed in the description
i've always wanted to find that song
No worries, thanks for watching
@@artisanmakes good vid btw! nice and informational
Good content, well presented.
Very useful video 4lathe Works👏thanX 🎉
sharpies and dry erase board markers but the dry erase whips off easy but if u part is already chucked up they work fine.
FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE
*** TOOLS FOR MINI LATHE ***
HSS Lathe Tools (w/ Narrow Parting Tool)
Carbide Lathe Tools
Cobalt Drill Bits for Steel
Sutton High Speed Steel for Everything Else
Combination Spot and Centre Drills
MT2 Chuck for Tailstock
Live Centre for Tailstock
Layout Fluid (Chisel Tip Texta)
Calipers (Digital or Vernier)
ISO 68 Way Oil
Lighter Oil for Cross Slides
630 88 Lithium Grease for Other Parts
*** OPTIONAL ***
Quick Change Tool Post
Independent 4 Jaw Chuck
Dial Indicator With Magnetic Base
Thread Pitch Gauge
Threading Dial (Attaches to Lead Screw Just Right of Slide Stock)
Tail Stock Die Holder
Machinists Hammer (With Nylon Face)
Thin Shim Stock
Cutting Fluid (3-in-1 Oil, Paraffin Oil, etc)
Micrometer
Spring Divider
Steady Rest
Very useful information
Glad you liked it. Cheers
Great vid!
I disagree with 4:23, I think if you are to use a center drill for spotting, you should only use the conical tip, and not the cylindrical section of the center drill. If you go into the cylindrical section, the next drill encounters a hard edge, not the conical hole made by the tip, which serves as the location fixing.
Correct, conical tip is serving as aide for a drill, specially the very tip.
Cool video 😀
Interesting video.
Very informative videos, thank you. I'm planning a table saw project for which I'd need to turn the 260mm long and about 30mm diameter arbor from steel. It would installed in pillow block bearings. I was looking at a 1000+€ small lathe, similar power to this but it has hardened ways. Do you this would be doable on that lathe, with practice? Another more optional project would be making male and female interlocking trunnions from 100mm diameter disks, for tilting the blade sideways.
Köszönöm!
Nagyon jó!
Nice video
I plan to cut a lot of steel and titanium with mine at a high ish tolerance around 10micron runout and a 2-5 thousandths tolerance
Remember when cutting titanium...make sure to clear the chips extremely frequently...titanium fires are hard to put out and can damage machinery
QCTP never get the aluminum bodied QCTP with the cam and piston. they do not hold the cutting tool rigid. I soon go frustrated with my piston type and bought a wedge type.
I think you can get DYMARK engineer blue ...which i use in my company in perth ...and not that expensive
5:40 Since the chuck isn't moving, could you make the key stay on permanently?
Vibrations and bumping will make it a bit dangerous to just leave it in the chuck. What I have seen done is drill a small hole through the key and attach a cord to that. Then have the cord attach to the tailstock. And maybe throw in a magnet somewhere as well. :)
Thanks for the heads up!
I noticed an oddity at minute 3:46
The twist drill bit, when backed out of the hole, actually drops a bit, indicating that either the bit and tailstock isn’t parallel with the bed, or the bit is bent. Perhaps, also, the centerline of the chuck isn’t parallel to the bed.
What is the remedy for this?
This was an early issue with the tailstock. It was a combination of the tailstock being slightly misaligned with the spindle, which was fixed by realigning using the hex screw under the tailstock. The vertical alignment issue was fixed by adding a small shim under the front of the tailstock to tilt it up. This took a bit of time because I had to disassemble the tailstock to wedge the shim in place.
@@artisanmakes ,
Please provide the address for this mini lathe dealer/distributor, in *Indonesia* .
Greets video!
I am new at machining. So If some experienced using mini lathe could answer my question. Can a mini lathe 8x16 with 900 wat motor turn steel such as you would have a on an trailer axle spindle? Which is fairly hard steel.
I'm sure you could if you use a sharp cutter and take light ish passes. My lathe is smaller with a 1/2 hp motor and I can turn high tensile steel within reason.
I have a 8x16 grizzly coming I have a oxa quick change post to install do I want to use 1/2 inch tooling for rigidity? Or do u want to use 3/8? Looks like the stock tool holder lists 3/8 tooling
I use larger 10 and 12mm tooling because there are more options for holders and inserts.
Are chuck bolt patterns universal? how can i know if a chuck will fit my mini lathe?
If you buy a 80mm chuck with no backplate installed for your 7x lathe it’ll fit. Chucks have either a 3 or 4 hole pattern and these smaller lathes have both patterns drilled into the spindle nose.
Just so you know, that is a test indicator not a dial indicator
I was wondering what should be the correct size chuck for a 9 x 20 lathe. I bought a 6" new replacement chuck for the small 4" three jaw chuck because I don't have both sets of the jaws for the 4" one. But I have yet to install it. It is a self centering three jaw setup. But I think I would also like a four jaw individual setup for odd parts. What is your suggestions?
Depends on your usage. I'm a machinist by trade so when I bought my lathe I immediately outfitted it with a 3 jaw, 4 jaw, and two collet chucks since I'm used to the versatility. That may be a bit excessive for a hobbyist starting out however, but I would definitely recommend an independent 4 jaw and self centering 3 jaw at minimum as it will give you the ability to do everything even if it takes you a little longer dialing stuff in on the 4 jaw
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If my Lathe comes with a 100mm chuck can I still use a 125mm 4 jaw chuck ?
You might need to make a backplate for it fit the larger chuck. I haven't done it personally but I have seen it be done.
Thank you for the fast answer ! If I don´t want to make a backplate then I better do stick same 100mm right ?
Cheers, good to see someone local putting out material on mini lathes. Do you have a website or email?
@Jamal Blaze Pretty sure nobody actually gave a shit ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Measuring the ID of a part with calipers with bores is pretty much impossible to get perfectly accurate because of the trigonometry of the offset jaws. A telescoping gauge set are a cheap but vital tool for measuring precise bores. A bore gauge or bore calipers are better but more expensive. Pin gauges are amazing for really small holes
رائع
How'd you make that dome/doorknob shape at around 2:36?
Those are the stock ones that come with the lathe. Normally to cut domes I use form tools, but there are radius cutter attachments for lathes that are easy to make. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Thanks for the reply!
3:48 re drillbits " a better finish on the whole ". I see what you did there
what size chuck do you use on tailstock?
It is a B18 size chuck on a Morse 2 taper.
i keep thinking of buying a mini lathe, but for my needs. do i really need to spend the money ($700. USD up to $1,000. USD. more for the packages, more tools)for one? now saying that i have bought "other" tools for one-two off jobs. a mini lath in and of it's self is not that much money. but all the "other" items can easily double or quadruple the cost.
after seeing this video i see i do not need to buy package 3 on the web sites. maybe package 2 to get started. as package 1 is just a bare lathe.
then the why? nothing else will do one job i have in mind, but what other jobs could i do to make one worth the money spent. just another costly play thing to let sit and rust?
HI Artisan Makes
I disagree on the digital caliper. I buy cheap Harbor Freight dial calipers. For most of the work i do these are accurate enough and they never have a dead battery
they are so cheap that if they ever get erratic i can just throw them away and buy new ones. I have never had a HF dial caliper go bad due to dirt or swarf in the rack and pinion gear.
my two cents
Great vid, as always. What is the steel backboard on your lathe that you hang things from?
Cheers Paul, the steel is just a steel pegboard that is a part of the workbench. I am not a huge fan of the off the self peg board accessories so I find it easiest to make my own holders and zip tie them to the board to they are secure.
A bright colour to make it stand out! What i’ve been screaming at spectacle manufacturers and those who pump out hand tools that come in matching uniform coloured handles, and their promotional black interior deep tool cases with a complementary cylindrical black roll-away torch. I mean WHY ! All i want to do is find it not guess and squint at the bit of the tool. A different bright and visually contrasting handle for each different size, yes i made a beginners mistake and cheaped out on a set from the red handle brigade. Buy cheap repent forever.
Safety glasses. Ten bucks.
Another essential tool is a carbide scriber. YOU NEVER USE THE VERNIER CALIPER JAWS AS SCRIBERS!
I wouldn't stress much about these. They're an old cheapo set for scribing
> Calipers
> Very accurate
More like approximators, if compared to micrometers. Of course I don't know what I'm talking about as non machinist. Nice video though.
For a diy or hobby machinist, they’re plenty accurate.
Don't confuse accuracy with resolution. And remember the source of errors. CALIPERS measure out of line with the beam unlike a" micrometer" G clamp shaped instrument. Which measures inline with the measured thing.....
Hmm, the chances of chips getting into the gears of a high quality dial calliper like the Mitotoyo shown are just about zero. If you are making you tube videos the dial is an excellent way of showing readings on camera. Vernier scales are a right pain to read for a beginner and mechanical dial gauges do not need those pesky batteries that are always dead when you need them. BobUK.
Hey Robert, I think I should have clarified that the chips that I really worry about getting in the calipers rack is brass chips. When I first got the lathe I used the dial calipers a fair bit and had to clean out the rack a few times, though you are right it doesn't happed tooo much with aluminum chips. And you are right, Vernier scales are a real pain to learn. My first course in university had us learn how to use them off by heart, but once you pick it up you never forget how to use them. Cheers
If you buy a decent digital caliper you can have the battery last upwards of a year or two. I use mitutoyo digitals at work every day and I last replaced the battery some time 2019. They will cost way more than a set of dial or vernier scale calipers, and you have to be careful not to buy a counterfeit caliper too, but if you can afford it, or find a used pair online, I would totally recommend one
Using the vernier caliper as a marking gauge is one of the worst shop practices there are.
Not worth getting too worked up over a cheap $5 set of callipers. Hardened steel and last years
9
Using the calipers to make marks is the worst idea ever!
Each to their own, hardened steel scoring a line in dykem won't damage them much and in every event they are $10 callipers that are dedicated for
Scribing
you certainly dont include a single wide shot in your videos, do you? really trying to exemplify the macro-experience of manufacturing miniscule items, huh. makes me claustrophobic and makes your video lack context and clarity, jsyk.
Just dont scribe with your mitutoyo