Perhaps you rescue your collet tooling runout by gripping nice round blank material in the ER collets. Then hold the round blank material in a clocked 4 jaw chuck. Carefully centre drill the shank and support with a tailstock. Lastly, turn the shanks with a decent insert, perhaps ceramic...
Hey Dave, Nice work! I don't know how a tapmatic is supposed to work but won't the tap get forced into the material when the collet/holder breaks free?
The idea is I want to set the force so it breaks free just before breaking a tap. A safety device when using the mill to thread rather than threading by hand...
My Ridgid tapper uses a Jacobs collet, which uses two sizes of rubber & steel inserts to hold the taps. If you want to make your own, you can buy just the inserts for the Jacob. You didn't show a test of your Tapmatic, but my gut tells me you may need to affix the new ball cage to the top half to get it to work. It's just agut reaction, but if you end up with the balls rotating in both halves... I'd also be concerned about the steel on the aluminum. Your design reminds me of a clutch or something I've had a apart, before. The difference is, it had slopes on the side of the holes, in the direction the balls moved. Don't recall what it was, or it's purpose, but I know when I'm designing something, the more info, the better, so hope it helps. Oh, history on Ridgid. They made a self reversing power tapper in the 60-70’s, (if memory serves me), and they're not seen much, in comparison to Procunier or Tapmatic. You are correct about power tapping with small taps. The Ridgid will do as small as #6, but anything under #10 makes me too nervous, and I'm cautious with #10, especially if it's steel, and wouldn't consider doing SS. I used an extra Port-A-Lign, those hand drill attachments for 90°, (and angled), hand drilling, as a tapping tool. I mounted a ¼" drill chuck, and use it when I need pendendicular tapped holes, or when I can't get material in the drill press. I also added a knobbed handle to the input shaft. It takes the tedium out of multiple tapping, is much easier/faster than a tap handle, and costs much less than a manual tap stand, (they're multiple $100’s, as I recall).
place adjustable angle block on bed of vise, with its longest side parallel to solid jaw, place part to be machined in the angle block, close vise against part to be machined. angle block will likely be able to slide perpendicular to solid jaw once part is clamped.
Is the mill motor single phase? If it is a Cap start, Cap run single phase motor some have centrifugal switches (to switch from start top run) that don't operate properly in reverse. This might be where your unpleasant sounds were originating.
The mill is a DC motor driven by a pulse width modulator driver. The switch would simply reverse the polarity on the motor. The sound is simply the Hum of the motor coils as they are pulsed.
Was this project ever finished? Tried finding the follow up video
Nope I messed up hole placement, but it would work. Others have made it.
Definately a project id like to try
Hi mate does the tapping head work ok?
I didn't have a DRO to make it accurately, so I gave up. Funny I did just get a real one-off Craigslist.
I can't wait to see the tapmatic finished! Really nice project, thanks for the video.
I never did finish it didn't have the right equipment to make it but the concept should work.
Good to see you back Dave. Keep up the great videos
Hi Dave. Maybe you could consider a small drill chuck.
Problem is a drill chuck only has 3 jaws and you need 4.
It's a V block that requires a clamping kit. The block will put part to be machined in orientation but will require clamping kit to secure part.
Perhaps you rescue your collet tooling runout by gripping nice round blank material in the ER collets. Then hold the round blank material in a clocked 4 jaw chuck. Carefully centre drill the shank and support with a tailstock. Lastly, turn the shanks with a decent insert, perhaps ceramic...
Good tip!
I like the idea of the shop made Tapmatic.
Look forward to seeing the demonstration. Your machine work is so dang nice!
I found them and bought 2 samples.
Thanks for Your video!
Regards,
Stefan
Hey Dave,
Nice work! I don't know how a tapmatic is supposed to work but won't the tap get forced into the material when the collet/holder breaks free?
The idea is I want to set the force so it breaks free just before breaking a tap. A safety device when using the mill to thread rather than threading by hand...
Glad to see your back on great video ty. Tapmatic look good cant wait till its done:)
My concern with your design is that when the ball clutch operates is it going to hammer the tap?
The design is different than you think but decided later power tapping with small taps is a bad idea anyway.
My Ridgid tapper uses a Jacobs collet, which uses two sizes of rubber & steel inserts to hold the taps. If you want to make your own, you can buy just the inserts for the Jacob.
You didn't show a test of your Tapmatic, but my gut tells me you may need to affix the new ball cage to the top half to get it to work. It's just agut reaction, but if you end up with the balls rotating in both halves...
I'd also be concerned about the steel on the aluminum. Your design reminds me of a clutch or something I've had a apart, before. The difference is, it had slopes on the side of the holes, in the direction the balls moved.
Don't recall what it was, or it's purpose, but I know when I'm designing something, the more info, the better, so hope it helps.
Oh, history on Ridgid. They made a self reversing power tapper in the 60-70’s, (if memory serves me), and they're not seen much, in comparison to Procunier or Tapmatic.
You are correct about power tapping with small taps. The Ridgid will do as small as #6, but anything under #10 makes me too nervous, and I'm cautious with #10, especially if it's steel, and wouldn't consider doing SS.
I used an extra Port-A-Lign, those hand drill attachments for 90°, (and angled), hand drilling, as a tapping tool. I mounted a ¼" drill chuck, and use it when I need pendendicular tapped holes, or when I can't get material in the drill press. I also added a knobbed handle to the input shaft.
It takes the tedium out of multiple tapping, is much easier/faster than a tap handle, and costs much less than a manual tap stand, (they're multiple $100’s, as I recall).
Hello, is working the home made tapmatic? When the friction starts it jumps and can brake the Tapper or ruin the thread?
The angle block is just an adjustable vblock for setting up work on a angle in ur vise...use like u would constants, angle blocks, or v blocks
Hi!
I looked at "Tapmatic Video #133" and You showed a little block that could be turned around some 135 degrees
Regards,
Stefan
Hi!
From where does the mysterious part come, the one looking like a craddle? I could use such a thing.
Regards,
Stefan
I believe you are referencing the angle block which can be found on Ebay.
The angle block is for setting your work like a sine bar. Not a vise.
I like it, the Shop made "TapMatic." Have you finished it yet?
place adjustable angle block on bed of vise, with its longest side parallel to solid jaw, place part to be machined in the angle block, close vise against part to be machined. angle block will likely be able to slide perpendicular to solid jaw once part is clamped.
yea its just for setting angle in a vice for something that has atleast 1 flat the jaws clamp the part the adjustable v just helps index.
Is the mill motor single phase? If it is a Cap start, Cap run single phase motor some have centrifugal switches (to switch from start top run) that don't operate properly in reverse. This might be where your unpleasant sounds were originating.
The mill is a DC motor driven by a pulse width modulator driver. The switch would simply reverse the polarity on the motor. The sound is simply the Hum of the motor coils as they are pulsed.
These little shiny round things are called bearing balls, not ball bearings.
Ball bearings are complete assemblies that contain bearing balls.