Nice job sir. What you really needed between the stepper and the shaft was an 'Oldham coupling'. They are a really nice way of isolating two shafts that are not completely concentric. I can't readily explain how they work here, but just google 'Oldham coupling', and you will see what I mean.
I looked at some different couplings but I couldn't get past how much length they added... I've got some tricks up my sleeve for the next version that should solve the problem :)
Could you not just mount the motor on rubber standoffs? That'd allow for a small amount of misalignment without otherwise affecting its operation. For this application it'd likely be all you'd need.
You do good work and I understand why your company would allow you to do your own projects; I can tell that you learned a lot about design and construction of a somewhat advanced tool and your company will be getting a better employee in exchange for a little tool time. I'm going to subscribe for and I hope you use the lathe to make more tools.
Using tools to make tools? Brilliant! Yeah my company is awesome with that, it really lets people hone their design and machining skills off the clock, so everybody wins.
Only a minute in and an SKF Speedi Sleeve would have been my first thought. I'll watch remainder to see your solution. Normally wouldn't comment early but planning to remember something doesn't always survive the distractions. You have enough room to put an internal coupling fixed to the motor shaft and allow for any misalignment problems. You know a lot more about electronics than you give yourself credit for. Just let your needs show you what to learn next, it can be better than filling your brain and having to look through it in an industry driven by new things. All the best, thanks for sharing.
hlaps1990 I used my first one in 1976 on the harmonic balancer of my 327 small block Chevy. It provides a new surface for the oil seal to seal to. Knurling or center punching can take of clearance issues too. I'll follow your projects as I'm able. Thanks for replying.
Subscribed. One minor change I humbly suggest for version 2 is the addition of an encoder so your computer can determine which position is currently selected. An optical encoder should work but might have problems with cutting fluids/coolant. A magnet based encoder would be very reliable though
I randomly stumbled across this video. Very well thought out mechanism. I see this is an older video, and am looking forward to seeing how this project matures. Subscribed
Nice job. But since the indexing motor is a stepper, there is no feedback of the indexed position. How do you ensure there is wrong or no indexing due to some problem and the right tool is in to the position.
any Progress? looks like very interesting concept 7:13 its a arduino pro mini since it has no usb, the nano is simila size but with usb and 25-40% more "expensive" (3$ :D) , seller throw in nano in some auctions to confuse the new buyers to overpay the product.
Yep it's a pro mini, my bad. Here's the update -- th-cam.com/video/Yi-YXHsrbfA-/w-d-xo.html- I made 2 new ones. I'm probably going to redesign it at some point for the new lathe as well, but one step at a time!
+I8THEmagictoaster i think i would need some compliance in the shaft as well.. I was thinking about an integral semi compliant connection inside the shaft, but it never panned out
Now you just need to buy a cast iron furnace and sell small work envelope super heavy duty lathes. You can even 3d print the patterns these days, some of the filament burns away and leaves almost zero dust. I think they coat the 3d printed plastic parts with some kind of ceramic/silica material.
Very nice, great work! Regarding your concerns of tool location at 7:40, could you not code the stepper to reverse rotate slightly so it seats the ratchet?
Ah cool! Great minds think alike :) Stalling steppers is usually avoided like the plague, but for this application any skipped steps in reverse can simply be ignored as you'll be starting any subsequent 'forward' moves from a known position. Win. I noticed your subscriber count is increasing fast, deservedly!
Did you get any chatter when in use? I would think the tool would need to be locked in place bidirectionally.. even though the cutting force is pushing against your ratchet I'd expect the tool to bounce as the chip breaks.. awesome work.. if the place you work at is hiring let me know 😂
Yep, definitely some. my newer turrets get less due to a light preload from a spring plunger. I'm planning on making a third iteration someday that has a stronger preload, but thats not going to be for awhile. Thanks for watching!
Use a spiral coupler, Go past the tool position, then move back overshooting it a gain by just a couple of micro-steps. This will give you the bearing decoupling, slight preload against the ratchet and could be invisible to the eye. I know I'm a bit late to say this, but hell... Nice work!
I really like the idea of using a spiral coupler as a spring element! I had also considered using a spider coupling with a really soft cast rubber insert, but a spiral coupler would be much easier. Maybe someday I'll do a version 3 :P
It's a pretty easy explanation of why your micro controller was shutting down. The large chip on the board is a linear regulator (probably a MC7805). Linear regulators basically just turn unused voltage into heat and that particular chip has a temperature cutoff that stops you from cooking it. Basically if you want to use your digispark, either find a way to passively cool it through the aluminum or rout an extra wire into it with a lower voltage.
If the control electronics is in the same place on the new one, a pattern of holes drilled in the shaft with magnets glued in to them could operate hall-sensors on the back of the PCB (you only need 3 sensors for 8 tools) for a simple position encoder.
I think I'm going to try to free up the rear of the shaft on the next iteration and use a standard encoder unit. Good thinking though, That little set screw hole would be perfect for that!
I use encoders a fair bit, and I think that they are rather over-kill for a tool position sensor. A pattern of flat spots on the shaft and 3 microswitches is another way to do what is needed. There are lots of very cheap 16-position encoders out there (radio knob style) but 16 into 6 is not a good fit, and might cause problems. The other alternative is to just have a single sensor, and run a homing sequence. I am not sure how to do that in Mach3, but here is a general-purpose tool changer component that I wrote for LinuxCNC. github.com/LinuxCNC/linuxcnc/blob/master/src/hal/components/carousel.comp
Hazzard Eilts while it may be an idea worthy of that, how many people have a CNC lathe that could use this? Kickstarter is a platform that's much better for selling cheap things to masses of people rather than expensive things to a few.
Shafts that bearings run on should be as round as the bearing, the bearing tends to deform to fit the shaft. They will bridge over small holes/depressions, but high spots will deform the inner race. Excess shaft thickness will reduce bearing clearance by an equal amount for a solid shaft, a hollow shaft should have less effect, but no experience there. I can see the high spots on your shaft at std resolution.
Really nice job :) Now If you want to make mark 4, you could try the mechanic old projectors and watches used. :) Cant really remember the name of it, but if you want, I can defentely find it :) Keep it up ! :)
Yes ! Thats the one. :) I was watching a video about them the other day and they sad it was used in old laces for changing tools. :) Had to subscribe even though Im electro engineer :)) Thanks for the content.
Possibly out of place, i'm new to cnc machining and i'm looking at designing a gearbox planning to mill it out of a solid chunk of aluminum it won't be any bigger than the main body you've built here . Do you think i could get any advice on machining something like that? i'm guessing the only way to do it is with a 5 axis am i right? how else would you do it ?
I'd have to see the part to comment on specifics, but for a part like this, and indeed I would say most parts, you can get away quite comfortably with 3 axis. The trick is a good setup and being able to locate well. I did this part in 5 setups on a 3 axis, though a 5 axis could have done it in one!
Would you consider to share the macro for Mach3 ? I mean I have one, but mine work with a humble pneumatic actuator, that push the tool out to rotate, then it locks back in place.. but I never have been able to figure it out how to make the Visual-basic equation to make it work properly! Don't get me wrong.. If I set my tools in series.. 1, 2, 3. It follows and works, but It make me feel a bit bad about my self that I can not just go back to say if I'm on t3 M06, and need to go back to T1 M06.. I just can't do that... thanks for posting and best of luck...
You don't have to have VB in your script if you don't know VB. You can use the Mach script engine (i think it is provided by Cypress Software) which is already integrated in the software, and standard logical arguments to control position (if / then/ else). If you are knowledgeable in using and manipulating spreadsheets you can use that knowledge to make your macros.
Well since I honestly never have use spreadsheets, would you consider to share a few video samples? I'm positive that there a more than a few samples here on youtube...
tell you what, I have designed a turret to mount on my Taig Mill which appears to be built the same as yours. When I get to it I will assist you as much as possible www.dropbox.com/s/lqo90t7n4d3msv7/turret.PNG?dl=0
Wow, that is a really nice ATC.. may I ask you how do you plan to lock it on place? you plan to extend it in and out on a set of locking pins. I can see clearly the spring?? also yours is a 8 tools! I have a very humble 6, I chose it because I really like the looks on the Emco COMPACT5
if you have enough space, you could mount the motor side by side to the toolpost axle and use the gt2 timing belts they sell on eBay for 3d printers. I've used them for several gearbox experiments, they are pretty robust. This way you could solve your over determined problem and if you wish, could bring in some gear reduction.
I'm certainly playing with that idea. I was also thinking of using an idler as a sort of one-way tensioner, where the motor could drive backwards and "compress" the idler and then the idler would act as a preload against the pawl. Still working out the details on that :P
instead of the set screw holding both shafts together you can try to put a pin in the motor shaft that mates with a slot in the changer shaft. This type of coupling creates a "gimbal" joint between two shafts that is rigid radially but flexible axially. Drilling a perfectly centered hole in hardened motor shaft may be a challenge.
A suggestion on the electronics heating problem. It may be the voltage regulator lacks proper input de-coupling and is self oscillating, gets worse with long supply leads. Try adding a 100nF capacitor between the input terminal and ground....
That's interesting... I'll give it a try... I've never heard of a capacitor used for that reason! I think the regulator is just a cheapie though (some electronics guys at my work scoffed at it) so maybe that's a problem it has! Thanks Ray!
I don't know about smart, just stubborn and enthusiastic! Manual machining is an awesome place to start to learn about metal cutting. Then you can start in CNC with a low cost router style machine and work your way up from there.
Nice work,I really admire your determination. I know it's a proof of concept. But you did a nice job regardless. Little tweaks here and there,but you don't get there on the first try that's what a prototype is all about. Subscribed.
+Nate P thanks Nate! Ive learned that sometimes you need to just dive into machining to encounter mistakes you wouldn't have caught in CAD. Ive tried using only CAD with no prototyping before and i've found that the idea hits a wall pretty quickly!
I designed a automatic tool changer 4 tools, smaller. DC reduction motor, Tool Feedback signal control ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I made a mini CNC lathe,Aluminium alloy and steel Z-200mm X-60mm It's not finished yet Finished uploading to TH-cam this month, maybe nice video,thanks
Well that is simply sensational given your apparent skills. Where there’s a Will there’s a Way! Couple of things: I DEFINITELY change the ratchet for a proper lockdown system that holds the tool Rigid! No movement at all. Maybe pneumatic locking with locating pins. The servo or closed loop stepper you are using will have no trouble with accurate positioning prior to locking it in. And, how are you going with integrating that into your G-Code? Be great to see it all up and running! I have been thinking on this same project for quite a while now and I realise how much I have over complicated my design! May I have your permission to use some of your ideas in my design please! My design is more tool changer/selector rather than a multi tool holder. Anyways, you blew me away. Great work! You should seriously consider selling your design and completed prototype to some larger tool manufacturers that deal in smaller ‘hobby’ lathes. I love it! You have totally inspired me, thank you! Michael 🇦🇺
Very excited for the continuation of this project. Are you planning on selling plans upon its completion? I look forward to seeing continued videos detailing the other electronics, especially related to the clearpath you have on there. Thanks for showing us your work excellent job.
+Jradical im certainly open to the idea of sharing plans (maybe via patreon to take the sting out of doing the extra work!) but every time i sit down to do a drawing i cant get past the little design flaws lol. We'll see!
hlaps1990 I know the feeling haha. It would be really cool to see a whole group of guys building a similar machine. I feel like most guys who would be interested in the plans would end up putting their own spin on it to utilize their parts on hand. Which could end up in some neat innovation for all.
@@TabletopMachineShop thanks for the reply. I judge by your terminology that you are an engineer am I correct? I'm planning on building a heavy but small cnc lathe by the way. Aiming at 200-300kg weight (plus base) with under 200mm swing and about as short as yours. And at least 8 tool turret and hydraulic power chuck and what not. So far I've only bought the chuck. I'm a beginner with the electronics but guess I'll just need to do the dirty work of studying about that as well.
Been thinking about this. You can use 4 cam lobes on the shaft with micro limit switches to make it 4 bit compatible. All contained no exposed magnets, no need to home machine always knows what tool is up.
I'm planning on uploading the code I have to my Patreon, but it's basically a state change detection script (much like this www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/StateChangeDetection). I will be using an Arduino pro nano and a DRV8825 for electronics
Perhaps you should establish Harmonic Drive , it will add rigidity, will eliminate a side play. The truth it is more expensive. With interest I will monitor your work. Subscription.
That drv stepper driver has a tiny trimpot that adjusts the current so you probably just overloaded the stepper with too much current, adjust the trimpot and you'll be fine. :) cool atc though, I've just started designing mine for unimat.
+The Metal Butcher not bad, it needs some kind of damping though--theres a bit of "bounce" between the ratchet and pawl... should be fine when the motor is actually powered lol
I really miss updates on this project. Hope you are doing ok in this tough times, and hope you and your loved ones are healthy!
Nice job sir.
What you really needed between the stepper and the shaft was an 'Oldham coupling'.
They are a really nice way of isolating two shafts that are not completely concentric.
I can't readily explain how they work here, but just google 'Oldham coupling', and you will see what I mean.
I looked at some different couplings but I couldn't get past how much length they added... I've got some tricks up my sleeve for the next version that should solve the problem :)
Could you not just mount the motor on rubber standoffs?
That'd allow for a small amount of misalignment without otherwise affecting its operation.
For this application it'd likely be all you'd need.
Ratchet is not enough - there must be a Hirth coupling.
That's probably the simplest ATC I've ever seen. Well done mate
Thanks! This is one of the few fields where simple is a compliment :P
Outstanding, one of the best projects i've seen... Keep up the good stuff !
Thanks Quentin! You're too kind!
Very good video Sir
Can you plz deeply describe the electrnical part of tool changer with mach3 board and mach3 calibration
You do good work and I understand why your company would allow you to do your own projects; I can tell that you learned a lot about design and construction of a somewhat advanced tool and your company will be getting a better employee in exchange for a little tool time.
I'm going to subscribe for and I hope you use the lathe to make more tools.
Using tools to make tools? Brilliant! Yeah my company is awesome with that, it really lets people hone their design and machining skills off the clock, so everybody wins.
What a beautiful tool changer!!! The pawl even makes official sounding clicks.
I like that... "official sounding clicks" :P
You are driving the stepper with that little chip? If so, that may be why it got hot. You need some kind of motor driver I'd think. Great build!
+Lucas Choate there is a separate driver as well... it stayed fairly cool
I hope that you put together a drawing or sketch package on this. someday.
Only a minute in and an SKF Speedi Sleeve would have been my first thought. I'll watch remainder to see your solution. Normally wouldn't comment early but planning to remember something doesn't always survive the distractions. You have enough room to put an internal coupling fixed to the motor shaft and allow for any misalignment problems. You know a lot more about electronics than you give yourself credit for. Just let your needs show you what to learn next, it can be better than filling your brain and having to look through it in an industry driven by new things. All the best, thanks for sharing.
Hi Jim, I'd actually never heard of Speedi Sleeves, so I'm glad you commented when you did!
hlaps1990 I used my first one in 1976 on the harmonic balancer of my 327 small block Chevy. It provides a new surface for the oil seal to seal to. Knurling or center punching can take of clearance issues too. I'll follow your projects as I'm able. Thanks for replying.
Subscribed.
One minor change I humbly suggest for version 2 is the addition of an encoder so your computer can determine which position is currently selected. An optical encoder should work but might have problems with cutting fluids/coolant. A magnet based encoder would be very reliable though
good suggestion. I'm implementing one in version 3 :)
I randomly stumbled across this video. Very well thought out mechanism. I see this is an older video, and am looking forward to seeing how this project matures. Subscribed
Thanks Keith!
Nice job. But since the indexing motor is a stepper, there is no feedback of the indexed position. How do you ensure there is wrong or no indexing due to some problem and the right tool is in to the position.
Youre correct, if something went wrong the wrong tool could be presented... i might add an encoder on the stepper
any Progress? looks like very interesting concept
7:13 its a arduino pro mini since it has no usb, the nano is simila size but with usb and 25-40% more "expensive" (3$ :D) , seller throw in nano in some auctions to confuse the new buyers to overpay the product.
Yep it's a pro mini, my bad. Here's the update -- th-cam.com/video/Yi-YXHsrbfA-/w-d-xo.html- I made 2 new ones. I'm probably going to redesign it at some point for the new lathe as well, but one step at a time!
Nice work! I hope you publish a set of plans.
Thanks Joe! I think I have plans on my Patreon now -- I've since redesigned it, so it may be those plans.
Instantly subscribed
Calvin Stence me three!
Cool project... i have BL20L manual lathe and i interested to convert it to CNC...
Ah cool, conversions are tough. I'd love to see your progress though when you start!
Freaking awesome!
I like the design, even without any flexible coupling, as it won't rotate that much.
Subscribed.
Awesome! Welcome aboard Tony!
Got any drawings or plans for these? I have a small lathe ive converted to CNC and something like this would be ideal for it.
Put a soft silicone gasket between housing and motor so it can have some flexibility
+I8THEmagictoaster i think i would need some compliance in the shaft as well.. I was thinking about an integral semi compliant connection inside the shaft, but it never panned out
Now you just need to buy a cast iron furnace and sell small work envelope super heavy duty lathes. You can even 3d print the patterns these days, some of the filament burns away and leaves almost zero dust. I think they coat the 3d printed plastic parts with some kind of ceramic/silica material.
Oh man, I wish I had a cast iron furnace :P
Very nice, great work!
Regarding your concerns of tool location at 7:40, could you not code the stepper to reverse rotate slightly so it seats the ratchet?
Good thinking - it's actually been implemented in the firmware recently :)
Ah cool! Great minds think alike :)
Stalling steppers is usually avoided like the plague, but for this application any skipped steps in reverse can simply be ignored as you'll be starting any subsequent 'forward' moves from a known position. Win.
I noticed your subscriber count is increasing fast, deservedly!
Did you get any chatter when in use? I would think the tool would need to be locked in place bidirectionally.. even though the cutting force is pushing against your ratchet I'd expect the tool to bounce as the chip breaks.. awesome work.. if the place you work at is hiring let me know 😂
Yep, definitely some. my newer turrets get less due to a light preload from a spring plunger. I'm planning on making a third iteration someday that has a stronger preload, but thats not going to be for awhile. Thanks for watching!
Use a spiral coupler, Go past the tool position, then move back overshooting it a gain by just a couple of micro-steps. This will give you the bearing decoupling, slight preload against the ratchet and could be invisible to the eye. I know I'm a bit late to say this, but hell... Nice work!
I really like the idea of using a spiral coupler as a spring element! I had also considered using a spider coupling with a really soft cast rubber insert, but a spiral coupler would be much easier. Maybe someday I'll do a version 3 :P
I look forward to watching more. Thanks for the great overview!
It's a pretty easy explanation of why your micro controller was shutting down. The large chip on the board is a linear regulator (probably a MC7805). Linear regulators basically just turn unused voltage into heat and that particular chip has a temperature cutoff that stops you from cooking it. Basically if you want to use your digispark, either find a way to passively cool it through the aluminum or rout an extra wire into it with a lower voltage.
+Chris Ray yeah i guess i was just expecting their specs to apply without additional cooling... oh well, what youre saying makes sense
If the control electronics is in the same place on the new one, a pattern of holes drilled in the shaft with magnets glued in to them could operate hall-sensors on the back of the PCB (you only need 3 sensors for 8 tools) for a simple position encoder.
I think I'm going to try to free up the rear of the shaft on the next iteration and use a standard encoder unit. Good thinking though, That little set screw hole would be perfect for that!
I use encoders a fair bit, and I think that they are rather over-kill for a tool position sensor.
A pattern of flat spots on the shaft and 3 microswitches is another way to do what is needed.
There are lots of very cheap 16-position encoders out there (radio knob style) but 16 into 6 is not a good fit, and might cause problems.
The other alternative is to just have a single sensor, and run a homing sequence. I am not sure how to do that in Mach3, but here is a general-purpose tool changer component that I wrote for LinuxCNC. github.com/LinuxCNC/linuxcnc/blob/master/src/hal/components/carousel.comp
the least I can say is nice consept =). I dub it kick starter worthy
Hazzard Eilts while it may be an idea worthy of that, how many people have a CNC lathe that could use this? Kickstarter is a platform that's much better for selling cheap things to masses of people rather than expensive things to a few.
Agreed -- its an exceedingly small market, perhaps not worth selling at all as a matter of fact lol
reason to do anything "i like it cause its shiny"
So awesome man, have been following on Instagram for a while, but videos would be so good, keep it up!
Thanks!
Shafts that bearings run on should be as round as the bearing, the bearing tends to deform to fit the shaft. They will bridge over small holes/depressions, but high spots will deform the inner race. Excess shaft thickness will reduce bearing clearance by an equal amount for a solid shaft, a hollow shaft should have less effect, but no experience there. I can see the high spots on your shaft at std resolution.
Really nice job :) Now If you want to make mark 4, you could try the mechanic old projectors and watches used. :) Cant really remember the name of it, but if you want, I can defentely find it :) Keep it up ! :)
Geneva mechanism? the tolerances would have to be pretty tight, I don't know if I could pull it off... Thanks for watching!
Yes ! Thats the one. :) I was watching a video about them the other day and they sad it was used in old laces for changing tools. :) Had to subscribe even though Im electro engineer :)) Thanks for the content.
+Matěj Zeman thanks for watching!
Possibly out of place, i'm new to cnc machining and i'm looking at designing a gearbox planning to mill it out of a solid chunk of aluminum it won't be any bigger than the main body you've built here . Do you think i could get any advice on machining something like that? i'm guessing the only way to do it is with a 5 axis am i right? how else would you do it ?
I'd have to see the part to comment on specifics, but for a part like this, and indeed I would say most parts, you can get away quite comfortably with 3 axis. The trick is a good setup and being able to locate well. I did this part in 5 setups on a 3 axis, though a 5 axis could have done it in one!
very nice cnc tool turret, I would love one, are you making them for sale, thanks daniel
Maybe some day, if I can design one I'm totally happy with
hlaps1990 i dont even have any machines and i just want one of these turrets, hopefully to keep for a day when i do get my own machines.
I have a 2004 traub cnc b18 lathe and live tooling 860 796 0230 if anyone need some well below market price.USA
Plaza Machines how much?
Would you consider to share the macro for Mach3 ? I mean I have one, but mine work with a humble pneumatic actuator, that push the tool out to rotate, then it locks back in place.. but I never have been able to figure it out how to make the Visual-basic equation to make it work properly! Don't get me wrong.. If I set my tools in series.. 1, 2, 3. It follows and works, but It make me feel a bit bad about my self that I can not just go back to say if I'm on t3 M06, and need to go back to T1 M06.. I just can't do that... thanks for posting and best of luck...
Hi,
Yeah I'm totally open to sharing the macro -- I just havent written it yet :P! It's on my list for sure!
You don't have to have VB in your script if you don't know VB. You can use the Mach script engine (i think it is provided by Cypress Software) which is already integrated in the software, and standard logical arguments to control position (if / then/ else). If you are knowledgeable in using and manipulating spreadsheets you can use that knowledge to make your macros.
Well since I honestly never have use spreadsheets, would you consider to share a few video samples? I'm positive that there a more than a few samples here on youtube...
tell you what, I have designed a turret to mount on my Taig Mill which appears to be built the same as yours. When I get to it I will assist you as much as possible
www.dropbox.com/s/lqo90t7n4d3msv7/turret.PNG?dl=0
Wow, that is a really nice ATC.. may I ask you how do you plan to lock it on place? you plan to extend it in and out on a set of locking pins. I can see clearly the spring?? also yours is a 8 tools! I have a very humble 6, I chose it because I really like the looks on the Emco COMPACT5
Wonderful video, you have a great step-by-step pragmatic teaching style. Amazing project!
+Kent VanderVelden thanks a lot Kent!
Awesome video mate! :) Looking foward to the next one!
+Luka Radakovic Thanks hopefully ill have enough done for one next weekend!
The bit about constraint and shaft coupling made the video for me. Share more about machine design principles! Liked and subbed.
Hi Jimmy, I certainly will do! Constraining components is a vast topic, perhaps I'll try a video on it! Thanks for watching!
if you have enough space, you could mount the motor side by side to the toolpost axle and use the gt2 timing belts they sell on eBay for 3d printers. I've used them for several gearbox experiments, they are pretty robust.
This way you could solve your over determined problem and if you wish, could bring in some gear reduction.
I'm certainly playing with that idea. I was also thinking of using an idler as a sort of one-way tensioner, where the motor could drive backwards and "compress" the idler and then the idler would act as a preload against the pawl. Still working out the details on that :P
Hallo, mir gefällt die Bauweise. Ich würde gerne Wissen ob ich die Baupläne erwerben kann und ich ihn bauen darf für mich.
instead of the set screw holding both shafts together you can try to put a pin in the motor shaft that mates with a slot in the changer shaft. This type of coupling creates a "gimbal" joint between two shafts that is rigid radially but flexible axially.
Drilling a perfectly centered hole in hardened motor shaft may be a challenge.
Thats a really good idea, I might try it out. I dont even think the shafts are that hard on cheaper motors!
You could have removed the back tool changer bearing leaving only the front motor bearing to help with that problem.
A suggestion on the electronics heating problem.
It may be the voltage regulator lacks proper input de-coupling and is self oscillating, gets worse with long supply leads.
Try adding a 100nF capacitor between the input terminal and ground....
That's interesting... I'll give it a try... I've never heard of a capacitor used for that reason! I think the regulator is just a cheapie though (some electronics guys at my work scoffed at it) so maybe that's a problem it has! Thanks Ray!
Nice concept and looking good for future development! Well done.
Thanks David!
You are really smart. I am always interested in cnc, but I have no idea where to start. Now just manually machine parts.
I don't know about smart, just stubborn and enthusiastic! Manual machining is an awesome place to start to learn about metal cutting. Then you can start in CNC with a low cost router style machine and work your way up from there.
mind blown!! Holy crap that is awesome.
Awesome, small and functional
Thanks!
That's pretty slick👍👍
Nice work,I really admire your determination. I know it's a proof of concept. But you did a nice job regardless. Little tweaks here and there,but you don't get there on the first try that's what a prototype is all about.
Subscribed.
+Nate P thanks Nate! Ive learned that sometimes you need to just dive into machining to encounter mistakes you wouldn't have caught in CAD. Ive tried using only CAD with no prototyping before and i've found that the idea hits a wall pretty quickly!
Wooo amazing project!! Very well done!!
Thanks!
6-16 volts are you sure the voltage is limited in a/c or dc
It should be DC regulated -- there's a regulator on the board that claims to bring it down to 5V
Sweet build! Very impressive.
haven`t seen no updates on this is there any yet
Looks great. Killer job! Now, I need to make one for my Shopmaster Mill Turn CNC.
Do it!
A less complicated approach would be to mount the tools horizontally on the cross slide and simply move the cross slide up for each tool.
Much less fun though!
are these files available anywhere??? kinda wanna maybe probably going to try and make my own!
So freaking cool dude. So extremely cool.
Cool thing! Bravo!
Thanks!
I designed a automatic tool changer
4 tools, smaller. DC reduction motor, Tool Feedback signal control
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I made a mini CNC lathe,Aluminium alloy and steel
Z-200mm
X-60mm
It's not finished yet
Finished uploading to TH-cam this month,
maybe
nice video,thanks
+hjoz long i'll make sure i subscribe!
very cool design! subscribed :D
I have a 2004 traub cnc b18 lathe and live tooling 860 796 0230 if anyone need some well below market price.USA
Subscribed!
Great you share your progress and setbacks.
Cheers from Denmark.
Thanks for subscribing!
is that pawl and screw rigid enough? it takes most of the cutting forces after all.
Soo cool, I want one when you are done.
Well that is simply sensational given your apparent skills. Where there’s a Will there’s a Way! Couple of things: I DEFINITELY change the ratchet for a proper lockdown system that holds the tool Rigid! No movement at all. Maybe pneumatic locking with locating pins. The servo or closed loop stepper you are using will have no trouble with accurate positioning prior to locking it in.
And, how are you going with integrating that into your G-Code? Be great to see it all up and running! I have been thinking on this same project for quite a while now and I realise how much I have over complicated my design! May I have your permission to use some of your ideas in my design please! My design is more tool changer/selector rather than a multi tool holder. Anyways, you blew me away. Great work! You should seriously consider selling your design and completed prototype to some larger tool manufacturers that deal in smaller ‘hobby’ lathes. I love it! You have totally inspired me, thank you! Michael 🇦🇺
That's slick dude.
Nice job. Learning by doing is the best.
Agreed!
Very excited for the continuation of this project. Are you planning on selling plans upon its completion? I look forward to seeing continued videos detailing the other electronics, especially related to the clearpath you have on there. Thanks for showing us your work excellent job.
+Jradical im certainly open to the idea of sharing plans (maybe via patreon to take the sting out of doing the extra work!) but every time i sit down to do a drawing i cant get past the little design flaws lol. We'll see!
hlaps1990 I know the feeling haha. It would be really cool to see a whole group of guys building a similar machine. I feel like most guys who would be interested in the plans would end up putting their own spin on it to utilize their parts on hand. Which could end up in some neat innovation for all.
Very nice, where can I buy it?
Thanks! This is just a prototype, I don't have anything sellable at the moment
when will it be ready to sell?or share drawing for DIY?
lower voltage but same wattage means more amps. and thus more heat
they should definitely be provisioning for more heat if they claim to support 15V. I even tried a heatsink!
WRONG! Refer to Ohm Law chart.............P=I*E
Need to use some add-a-thou spray on those bores
Good old green loctite :p
@@TabletopMachineShop thanks for the reply. I judge by your terminology that you are an engineer am I correct? I'm planning on building a heavy but small cnc lathe by the way. Aiming at 200-300kg weight (plus base) with under 200mm swing and about as short as yours. And at least 8 tool turret and hydraulic power chuck and what not. So far I've only bought the chuck. I'm a beginner with the electronics but guess I'll just need to do the dirty work of studying about that as well.
Cool project!
WIshed you would continue posting videos - you do great work!
Very nice project - keep up the good work .
nice one
which controller are you using for driving turret where are the components and programming
Wow, wonderful project!
Thanks Kent!
That's awesome, keep up the good work!
Thanks!
Been thinking about this. You can use 4 cam lobes on the shaft with micro limit switches to make it 4 bit compatible. All contained no exposed magnets, no need to home machine always knows what tool is up.
Very cool! Nice work on this.
Thanks!
Awesome stuff!!!
please sugess how to program by arduino uno controller
I'm planning on uploading the code I have to my Patreon, but it's basically a state change detection script (much like this www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/StateChangeDetection). I will be using an Arduino pro nano and a DRV8825 for electronics
Gained a sub mate. Love this out of the box type work.
+Thom Pascoe thanks!
Any time I'm based in Australia myself.
very nice and clearly presented.
could use an mechanic pin in/out to clamp that keeping on position the tool adding an push button option one to change tool other to clamp
For the lose bearing cut thin (say .001") shim stock for width and circumference to be a press fit!
THIS IS SO COOL. Do you happen to have a CAD model for the parts?
The CAD for the newer model is up on my Patreon, I never really considered releasing the CAD for this version...
Amazing compact toolchancher ! do you sell these ?
This DRV Stepper Drivers always overheat.
Looks skookum.
Thanks!
Nice job on your build
Perhaps you should establish Harmonic Drive , it will add rigidity, will eliminate a side play. The truth it is more expensive. With interest I will monitor your work. Subscription.
Thanks fore the subscription! I did look at harmonic and cycloidal drives, but like you said, they're pretty expensive!
Nice job!!! Very nice!!
Thanks!
more volts = less amps for the same wattage = less power dissipation maybe
Very cool, subscribed
great project the bearing that's loose bore it out oversize and sleeve it.
This is super cool! What mill did you use to make the housing?
+Anand Rajamani thanks! i used a Tormach PCNC1100 at my work
nice design!!
thanks!
I have a 2004 traub cnc b18 lathe and live tooling 860 796 0230 if anyone need some well below market price.USA
That drv stepper driver has a tiny trimpot that adjusts the current so you probably just overloaded the stepper with too much current, adjust the trimpot and you'll be fine. :) cool atc though, I've just started designing mine for unimat.
Thanks for the tips and the view!
Cool, did it solve the problem?
Well that's really cool. Also neat to see your machining getting better. How is the rigidity?
+The Metal Butcher not bad, it needs some kind of damping though--theres a bit of "bounce" between the ratchet and pawl... should be fine when the motor is actually powered lol
Уважаемый автор. Поделитесь чертежом с 3д моделью. Спасибо. Работа просто класс!!! Все в миниатюрное. Как раз для настольного станка
That was awesome mate. You're a very clever man. Just hurt my finger racing to click the subscribe button on your channel. Cheers, Aaron.