What I like about this video is it not only shows you how to asemble the panel he tells you all of the pitfalls that can happen while putting the panel together.
its cool to create your solar panel from scratch... it will give you the best feeling of satisfaction when it work.... I just got that feeling after everything is working great!
Possibly, just make sure the resin has limited UV exposure, white tape. Also do not over do it with the MEK as the endothermic reaction of hardening can create a lot of heat and stress the cells. I usually do not like fiberglass for application, thin fiberglass with no cloth structure cracks and gets weird when heated. solar eva sheets are a good cheap option.
@iiinsaiii Hi, thanks for enjoying our work. This is back encapsulation, how most commercial panels are made, the wood sealer is mentioned in the previous video.
Just a thought, try adding a strain relief to the wire before it exits the panel, even just a knot in the wire will keep it from pulling off the solder if it is pulled. I used mc5 connectors on mine to make it easier to tie them together and to be more modular. I also would always paint all sides of the bare wood prior to assembling the glass in it to add durability and stabilize the wood frame more, or you can use aluminum as the frame material instead of wood.
shartne, Tempered glass is a good idea. You can often salvage it out of old storm doors. I have beaten on it with a hammer without breaking it. Suggestion about the two holes: drill them before you put the cells in the wooden frame.
i love how real this guy is...haha, that's great. making mistakes all over the place - and that's totally fine to just leave in the video to show people that shit happens and help keep us from making the mistakes.
Roughly 70 Watts peak, I later discovered my tester was giving me bad AMP readings. The real readings are 3.3A @ 20.9V. Amps times Voltage will give you watts (in this case 68.9 Watts). the panel has a total of 39 pieces of 3x6 inches.cells with 1 inch spacing between each column to aid in heat dissipation. It makes the glass covered area 22 inches wide by 120 inches tall. These cells were bought at ebay and were rated at 1.8Wp so they are working well.
Very good panel, where do you buy your broked cell? may i suggest when you put your wire to make a node when its the frame so the wire will not be able to escape the frame and help to not add stress on the wire connection (soldering)
Isn't there a better way to get them to lay down flat? Seems like this is a vital step to get each cell taped down to prevent the resin from flowing in front of them.
Just curious, since I'm learning all this for the first time... What is the purpose/benefit of encapsulating the cells rather than just using a thin board, for example, to hold the cells in the frame? I mean, the cells seemed to work in your earlier video when you tested them, so it can't be about functionality. Or can it?
So.. how do I know how to select the best schottke diode? Lets say I'm using a different size panel.. what's the formula? Thanks for the awesome videos.
Hey Dan, thanks for the tip, I'll add a layer of fiberglass cloth to the mix to make it stronger yet flexible. So far so good, I made a 3 x 13 solar panel wich is producing 20.9V and 5.5Amps. I tought about using EVA, but it is costly to have it ordered because I live in the Dominican Republic. So I will experiment by completely covering the cells with transparent tape, then I will add a layer of fiberglass. What do you think of this approach? is it worth trying?
Hey Dan, I'm about to do this kind of encapsulation with my solar cells, but I will be using regular fiberglass resin in order to lower the cost. I have waterproofed my wood frame and painted it white. I'm gonna use RTV silicon as an additional sealant. Do you think fiberglass resin could do the trick?
I tried this idea, but it failed. I live in Arizona where we have extreme sunshine and heat. In my opinion, it failed because a small pocket of air between the glass and solar cell is trapped inside when the tape prevents epoxy from front encapsulating cells. This air will expand when heated by sunshine, creating very high pressures inside, and eventually forces the epoxy to crack and detach from the glass.
im sorry dan if its a stupid qustion but why not just use 2 glass panel one rear one front seal in between withe silicon and maybe even vacum air between glass for an air tight seal? resin is expensive and messy to use...
Putting down some cross supports on top of the cells inside the frame and applying a small force on them and then casting the void areas would prevent the cells from lifting. You could just cast the supports in place. It would add weight but also rigidity. Just an idea. Your the guy getting it done. I'm just an observer.
I think most residental users are paying top retail rates. IN my state the utility bill makes it'sdifficult for the residental user to figure out his bill /KILLOW WATT HOUR RATE. My utility company will not send me a brake down of my bill. why?Each KWH you produce is one less KWH you payfor at full retail rate.
first off thanks for all your hard work, but I do see alot of stuff you didnt do. 1. you didnt seal the wood. in a few months there going to turn green and brown and then fall apart. 2. you want the resin to go in front of the cells to seal it and make it air tight. but over all nice panel. thanks
You need to prevent oxygen from degrading the solar cells. If you don't seal the cells from the elements by encapsulating or other means, they will not work well for long.
Sillicone for a buck? try 8$ for waterproof sillicone tube. you may have only squeezed a buck but that tube's more than a buck. also to solve the snagging problem you can make a knot in the wire on the inside. your way might be better to not compromise the seal.
@electrodacus most people watching this MIGHT be able to afford a project, over a couple of years, that runs 50 thousand dollars, most people watching this will NOT be able to afford a 150 thousand dollar project at 3$ per watt to service a full up and up non enhanced houses power requirements....this does NOT include the price for batteries if those are chosen to be gone with. It's about making the technology ACCESSIBLE.
I make my panels out of aluminum and tempered glass sealing the cells in with liquid silicone. My panels should last longer than 30 years. Check out my channel I show you everything.
What I like about this video is it not only shows you how to asemble the panel he tells you all of the pitfalls that can happen while putting the panel together.
Some of your best work Dan. I really like this series of videos.
its cool to create your solar panel from scratch... it will give you the best feeling of satisfaction when it work.... I just got that feeling after everything is working great!
Possibly, just make sure the resin has limited UV exposure, white tape. Also do not over do it with the MEK as the endothermic reaction of hardening can create a lot of heat and stress the cells. I usually do not like fiberglass for application, thin fiberglass with no cloth structure cracks and gets weird when heated. solar eva sheets are a good cheap option.
@iiinsaiii
Hi, thanks for enjoying our work.
This is back encapsulation, how most commercial panels are made, the wood sealer is mentioned in the previous video.
Just a thought, try adding a strain relief to the wire before it exits the panel, even just a knot in the wire will keep it from pulling off the solder if it is pulled. I used mc5 connectors on mine to make it easier to tie them together and to be more modular.
I also would always paint all sides of the bare wood prior to assembling the glass in it to add durability and stabilize the wood frame more, or you can use aluminum as the frame material instead of wood.
shartne,
Tempered glass is a good idea. You can often salvage it out of old storm doors. I have beaten on it with a hammer without breaking it.
Suggestion about the two holes: drill them before you put the cells in the wooden frame.
All I can say is thanx .. your videos really benefit me!!
Learned additional tips and tricks to be ready for the next DIY task.
@electrodacus I think you're right, but it's good to encourage people to make things. I like Dans work.
Why are these so much fun to watch? Ill probably never do this lol
Dan,
Great videos.
Great video! Is there a part 5?
i love how real this guy is...haha, that's great. making mistakes all over the place - and that's totally fine to just leave in the video to show people that shit happens and help keep us from making the mistakes.
Roughly 70 Watts peak, I later discovered my tester was giving me bad AMP readings. The real readings are 3.3A @ 20.9V. Amps times Voltage will give you watts (in this case 68.9 Watts). the panel has a total of 39 pieces of 3x6 inches.cells with 1 inch spacing between each column to aid in heat dissipation. It makes the glass covered area 22 inches wide by 120 inches tall. These cells were bought at ebay and were rated at 1.8Wp so they are working well.
Very good panel, where do you buy your broked cell?
may i suggest when you put your wire to make a node when its the frame so the wire will not be able to escape the frame and help to not add stress on the wire connection (soldering)
Isn't there a better way to get them to lay down flat? Seems like this is a vital step to get each cell taped down to prevent the resin from flowing in front of them.
Just curious, since I'm learning all this for the first time... What is the purpose/benefit of encapsulating the cells rather than just using a thin board, for example, to hold the cells in the frame? I mean, the cells seemed to work in your earlier video when you tested them, so it can't be about functionality. Or can it?
When you are soldering, the solder should flow. You are making pasty solder connections that may have higher resistance or possibly fail.
your channel is awesome!!!!
So.. how do I know how to select the best schottke diode? Lets say I'm using a different size panel.. what's the formula? Thanks for the awesome videos.
Hey Dan, thanks for the tip, I'll add a layer of fiberglass cloth to the mix to make it stronger yet flexible. So far so good, I made a 3 x 13 solar panel wich is producing 20.9V and 5.5Amps. I tought about using EVA, but it is costly to have it ordered because I live in the Dominican Republic. So I will experiment by completely covering the cells with transparent tape, then I will add a layer of fiberglass. What do you think of this approach? is it worth trying?
Hey Dan, I'm about to do this kind of encapsulation with my solar cells, but I will be using regular fiberglass resin in order to lower the cost. I have waterproofed my wood frame and painted it white. I'm gonna use RTV silicon as an additional sealant. Do you think fiberglass resin could do the trick?
I was wondering if you have a video that shows how to connect to like the main power supply to my home
I tried this idea, but it failed. I live in Arizona where we have extreme sunshine and heat. In my opinion, it failed because a small pocket of air between the glass and solar cell is trapped inside when the tape prevents epoxy from front encapsulating cells. This air will expand when heated by sunshine, creating very high pressures inside, and eventually forces the epoxy to crack and detach from the glass.
Excellent is all I can say!!!
Thanks bro,
RFT
im sorry dan if its a stupid qustion but why not just use 2 glass panel one rear one front seal in between withe silicon and maybe even vacum air between glass for an air tight seal? resin is expensive and messy to use...
best channel ever!
Putting down some cross supports on top of the cells inside the frame and applying a small force on them and then casting the void areas would prevent the cells from lifting. You could just cast the supports in place. It would add weight but also rigidity. Just an idea. Your the guy getting it done. I'm just an observer.
what if you used eva on the negative side against glass then used epoxy on the back to eliminate air gaps under cells?
Tie knot to the wire while its inside the frame before soldering. That way wire wont stretch as knot wont let that happen.
Now that it has been a year, have you remeasured output? How does it look one year later?
If you use a magnifying lens you can cut down on the number of solar panels and boost wattage. For your health.
how many watts is that and are those dimensions in meters or feet? Thanks
How to thin encapsuiant; lower and increas viscoty; what type of thiner to use??
How much watts volts and amps is each cell there?
how did u connected the cells with each other and how did the whole shhets are soldered with the connection wiere? thanks
+dekhi Well if you noticed this is part 4. There are 3 other parts where he shows this.
You guys are awesome!! TY!!
instead of using zip tie and screws, just make a knot on the inside end of the cable. It won't go through the hole
hi dan
where I can buy these cells can you help me???
I think most residental users are paying top retail rates. IN my state the utility bill makes it'sdifficult for the residental user to figure out his bill /KILLOW WATT HOUR RATE. My utility company will not send me a brake down of my bill. why?Each KWH you produce is one less KWH you payfor at full retail rate.
I want to have a house so I can put solar panels EVERYWHERE! :-D
first off thanks for all your hard work, but I do see alot of stuff you didnt do. 1. you didnt seal the wood. in a few months there going to turn green and brown and then fall apart. 2. you want the resin to go in front of the cells to seal it and make it air tight. but over all nice panel. thanks
the blocking diode reduces one cell
Good video.
You need to prevent oxygen from degrading the solar cells. If you don't seal the cells from the elements by encapsulating or other means, they will not work well for long.
this is pretty awesome o_o
Sillicone for a buck? try 8$ for waterproof sillicone tube. you may have only squeezed a buck but that tube's more than a buck. also to solve the snagging problem you can make a knot in the wire on the inside. your way might be better to not compromise the seal.
@electrodacus most people watching this MIGHT be able to afford a project, over a couple of years, that runs 50 thousand dollars, most people watching this will NOT be able to afford a 150 thousand dollar project at 3$ per watt to service a full up and up non enhanced houses power requirements....this does NOT include the price for batteries if those are chosen to be gone with. It's about making the technology ACCESSIBLE.
I make my panels out of aluminum and tempered glass sealing the cells in with liquid silicone. My panels should last longer than 30 years. Check out my channel I show you everything.
DON'T PULL THE FRIGGING TAPE.
gerai varai seni ;)
Lucky
First will be last. Last will be first. Bible said.
second!
ah shit! :P
first
You need to do a little research on how to solder correctly.