My Trane XV80 didn't blow hot air a month ago, I called one of our local AC companies, a technician came to my home and spent two hours to figure out AC blow motor was dead. He asked me to replace the whole system or replace the blow motor. After I paid $380 for AC checking only, the company quoted me $2,000 to replace AC blow motor the following day, AND they told me they couldn't guaranteed AC will work after replacement. That is a really nonsense! Thanks for God I found this video, I spent around $10.0 to purchase the exactly the same chip ($10 for two pieces) and replaced it by myself, my AC is working right now! Many thanks for the gentleman to publish this video, that is really save me a lot of money! The most important is I have confidence to do it myself in the future!!!
Thanks for the video, Ty! You really got my hopes up for a cheap repair to one of my son's rental HVACs. His Trane XV80 was giving 4 blinking light error code. The system would shut down a couple of minutes after the burners came on (the blower would not do anything). Tenants had complained that there was a burning smell for a while, and the fan stopped working. I took a look at it yesterday afternoon and couldn't figure out anything definitive. Came home and saw your video and got very excited - was so sure that might be the problem I ordered the 2-pack of NTC thermistors. Alas, I went back this morning, planning to short the NTC connection until the new thermistors arrived, but the thermistor looked pristine, and when I removed the board it was very apparent that a MOSFET had blown. There was charring on top of one MOSFET and soot on the bottom of the PCB in the same area. Ended up having to buy a whole ECM/motor assembly and the technician installed it. We were lucky to find one in town and the problem was fixed same day for $1,200 total. Oh well, it was a great video anyway. Kudos for taking the time to make it - you've helped many people!
Thank you for the video! Same thing happened to me. Ordered two thermistors off Amazon prime. Put the new one on and the blower motor started working. Saved me a ton of money.
Thanks for video, my unit failed during heat wave, 107 deg on labor day . Did temporary fix by soldering new leads to side original thermistor , and hope it will hold til I get new ones from Amazon. Saved me going to a hotel.
Lifesaver! Tore mine apart and the thermistor was totally cracked into pieces. One thing that I really wish I knew before going into it is that you only need to remove the 1/4 bolts on the very top. I was being dumb and dropped a wrench into the fan housing and had to take the whole thing out to get the wrench back.
Thanks for the video, saved me on a hot day in AZ. I always keep capacitors on hand because they seem to go out at least once a year but when the fan working I knew it was something different. Saw this video, pulled out the blower fan and sure enough it was blown. I didn't have a thermistor so I shorted it for now and its working. I ordered them from Amazon and they will be here this week. Great video. Thanks again.
Thanks for posting this video. I didn't change my filters frequently enough, evaporator coils froze, fan stopped working. Compressor/condenser outside fine, and no error code on the air-handler board, which led me to your video. The thermistor on my 2.3 ECM (exact same as yours) doesn't look burnt, though. I still went ahead and tried jumping the terminals but now the fan barrel keeps trying to start like an old car -- just goes around for a couple seconds, gives up, goes around for a couple more, gives up, ad infinitum. Here's the kicker -- I removed the jumper, and now get the same result, whereas before the barrel drum did nothing. Weird. I'm dreading the bill from the AC guys unless there's a solution out there I haven't found.
@@MaMa-qh4dy Yeah, I bought another ECM. They don't make these anymore, so I got an old one that was supposedly programmed for my Trane XV80. Either it wasn't or was just too old. Rather than running at variable speeds, the fan barrel would hunt. The A/C system was end-of-life, so I bit the bullet and replaced it last summer. Still paying for that. :(
@@JP-hz5zb Yikes! There is a device called Quick Swap that is a board you use with a new PSC motor in place of the ECM motor. This device accommodates multiple fan speeds too. You can check out that company for your reference. A much cheaper alternative than replacing the entire ECM motor/module.
Heck yes thanks so much for making this video brotha. My furnace just went out. I pulled the module and the capacitor was fried just like in your video. I was able to solder in a new one from Amazon and it's working better than before💪. Thank you thank you thank you
This same exact thing happened to me 2 summers ago. I wish this video was created at the time. I was about to spend $500 on a bee module until I seen that blown resistor and ordered 2 from Amazon.
What also saves you is the cause of why it broke. Change your filter every month if you have a 1 inch filter. No higher then a 8 merv rating. You the Homeowners are 90% of the time are responsible for the thermistor that pop. Furances need to be maintained every other year, again homeowners lack of doing their part is why they have issues majority of the time. BTW all of your warranties require you the owners to have records of preventive maintenance being done at least ever few years or your manufacturer will deny your warranty claims after they inspect the parts we are required to return back to them.
I ordered the same thermistor you had but should have also looked at my thermistor. Mine is a SL22 1Ro20. I get continuity when I tested it but I’m willing to gamble $10 to see if it fixes it.
The whole reason those blow is because people don't do basic maintenance and don't change their nasty filters enough. As a hvac tech I see it daily. If you have a 1 inch filter change it every month and STOP BUYING those expensive filters that have a merv rating higher then a 8, you are breaking your own equipment using them. Also no such thing as a 90 day 1 inch filter. If you have a 4 Inch media filter don't go higher then a 11 merv rating and change on average ever 6 months. The motors are not at fault, these ECM motors are mandatory by federal law under the EPA. They are very efficient but can't take the same abuse from homeowners as the psc motors could. Change your filters with the correct ones every month and stop blocking your supplys and returns. Maintenance on your equipment is part of your warranty requirements, homeowners damage their equipment and blame the manufacturers. It is also highly advised to have surge protection on a furance that has these motors which can damage them as well. I see this daily and makes my blood boil everyone wants to blame the manufacturers but it's not their fault 90% of the time, it's the homeowners. Also stop lying to us techs that you change your filters like you are required to do basic maintenance, we can tell. Don't mean to come off as a ass, but we techs are tired of being lied to and customer getting pissed at us when it's the homeowners fault for the failure. If people don't want the 300-1200 dollar bill. Change your 10 dollar filter every month.
@@greenfreshflorals Yes power off the furance and wait 30 seconds and try to reset the board. The control boards will hold fault codes if it doesn't fix it by resetting it.
I got a replacement control module for my Trane air handler ECM blower. My unit was wired for 240V and the replacement control module was an identical part number however it had a label from Trane (separate from the GE manufacturer label with the model number) which said “wired for 120V”. My thinking is that the module was pulled from a Trane air handler that used a 120V supply and probably had the jumper wire on the high voltage power input plug (5 pin) to provide 120V to both circuits in the control module. My unit is 240V and the 5 pin is not jumpered but directly wired with both sides of the 240V power. Would it be OK to use the replacement? Is this type of labeling by Trane commonplace? Aren’t these ECM modules all dual voltage, just depending on how input power is wired at 5 pin?
I have the same hvac unit and it started making a plastic burning smell tonight. And now the fan won't kick on. Hopefully this is the issue. Did you get any burning smell?
Yes, ours produced a burning smell a few hours before it stopped working. When I pulled mine out the thermistor was cracked in three! Thanks to Ty’s video I was able to fix it in less than 15 minutes and for all of $10!
Had the burning plastic smell a few days ago and followed this video to get this ECM out, however mine is different - it has black rubber covering the bare PCB all the way to the sides of the housing, effectively locking it in place. I don't know if digging through it would be OK, I certainly wouldn't want to make it worse. For anyone else: mine is silver instead of green and has fins on the side of it that make it look a bit like a heat sink. Still came out with two bolts though, just not sure how to proceed from here.
Gotta love it when a manufacturer makes easy cheap repairs almost impossible. Oh, but I'm sure that rubber is for the safety of the customer. I vote start cutting away at the rubber and see where you end up. Or, I'm sure an AC company would be more than happy to send over a quote for a new, more efficient unit.
@@tywoodruff7533 they wanted $1300 to replace the whole motor with ECM, they either couldn’t or wouldn’t sell me the ECM or replace only that. I could not secure a new ECM from the manufacturer because they only sell them to businesses. I found a used one on eBay for $93 and so far it’s working just fine. I kept the ECM though, to remind myself of poor design, business practices and planned obsolescence.
@@tywoodruff7533 It is ment to protect the components from vibration, it is easly removed with proper chemicals and the fix for the sacrificial thermistor is only about 1.50. The reason they blow is to protect your motor because people are not changing their damn filters and burning them up. See it daily, change your filters on time with the proper merv rating and this will not happen, 1 inch filters must be done every month and no higher then a 8 merv. 4-6 inch media filters last 6 to 9 months. Dirty filters will take years off your furances life cycle.
@@joshhayes3433 They are a good design and are reliable, goes back to the homeowners not doing their part in maintaining their investment. Change your filters as required every month with the proper merv rating and the motors won't go bad on you. As a hvac tech 90% of the failures are because the homeowners are not doing their part. The reason they are so expensive is the new end bells are not normally compatible with the older motor and it is required to change both, otherwise it won't work at all. Simplly they have updated the design of them. Also the end bell (the part in the video) has to come from the manufacturer because it needs programming done for your particular model furance. Don't get mad at us for the 1300 dollar bills, it's completely preventable. Back on you the Homeowners 90% of the time. Power surges are the second most common reason for failure.
@@tywoodruff7533 Awesome. Once I got it apart, mine was totally burned up in the same spot as yours. Found my soldering gun and ordered the same 2 pack of thermistors on Amazon. Hoping to have the AC fixed Sunday.
@@tywoodruff7533 actually all the rubber in that area burned away I just made contact with both the wires and now its works until I get my thermistor today
Thanks for this video. Had the burnt smell, dead blower, and sure enough it was that thermistor. One item to note for others reading this, is that you can temporarily short between the bad thermistor legs to get the unit to run, while you're awaiting your replacement one. We were in a heat wave and I was afraid that we'd be sweating it out for a few days ... but then I saw another video (grayfurnaceman : th-cam.com/video/XfGHC1O9ryk/w-d-xo.html) where he - HVAC tech - said that this is what they do for the customer while awaiting the part to arrive.
Change your filter every month if you have a 1 inch filter. No higher then a 8 merv rating. The Homeowners are 90% of the time are responsible for the thermistor that pop. Furances need to be maintained every other year, again homeowners lack of doing their part is why they have issues majority of the time. They blow because the motor has to work harder and harder because the homeowners are NOT changing their filters or they are using way too restrictive of a filter which we warn against and homeowners ignore what we tell them. I see this daily and comes down to maintenance. This honestly makes my blood boil, customer blame the manufacturers when in reality its the owners fault completely for the failure.
@@zack9912000 I'm just happy to learn that the thermistor is there to keep the whole motor from burning up and now I know it's such an easy and cheap fix. Also, if it helps your blood pressure any, I'm now using a merv 8 filter.
@@tywoodruff7533 I just wish more people didn't believe the filter companies bs. Good luck with the repair. Sorry about last post, alot of drinking was.done prior to that
Sonuva…AC died a week ago, I finally pulled the ECM, sure enough that thermistor is burnt and cracked!
$9 on the ‘zon, be here tmrw! Thanks man!
My Trane XV80 didn't blow hot air a month ago, I called one of our local AC companies, a technician came to my home and spent two hours to figure out AC blow motor was dead. He asked me to replace the whole system or replace the blow motor. After I paid $380 for AC checking only, the company quoted me $2,000 to replace AC blow motor the following day, AND they told me they couldn't guaranteed AC will work after replacement. That is a really nonsense!
Thanks for God I found this video, I spent around $10.0 to purchase the exactly the same chip ($10 for two pieces) and replaced it by myself, my AC is working right now!
Many thanks for the gentleman to publish this video, that is really save me a lot of money! The most important is I have confidence to do it myself in the future!!!
Thanks for the video, Ty! You really got my hopes up for a cheap repair to one of my son's rental HVACs. His Trane XV80 was giving 4 blinking light error code. The system would shut down a couple of minutes after the burners came on (the blower would not do anything). Tenants had complained that there was a burning smell for a while, and the fan stopped working. I took a look at it yesterday afternoon and couldn't figure out anything definitive. Came home and saw your video and got very excited - was so sure that might be the problem I ordered the 2-pack of NTC thermistors. Alas, I went back this morning, planning to short the NTC connection until the new thermistors arrived, but the thermistor looked pristine, and when I removed the board it was very apparent that a MOSFET had blown. There was charring on top of one MOSFET and soot on the bottom of the PCB in the same area. Ended up having to buy a whole ECM/motor assembly and the technician installed it. We were lucky to find one in town and the problem was fixed same day for $1,200 total.
Oh well, it was a great video anyway. Kudos for taking the time to make it - you've helped many people!
Thank you for the video! Same thing happened to me. Ordered two thermistors off Amazon prime. Put the new one on and the blower motor started working. Saved me a ton of money.
Thanks for video, my unit failed during heat wave, 107 deg on labor day . Did temporary fix by soldering new leads to side original thermistor , and hope it will hold til I get new ones from Amazon. Saved me going to a hotel.
Lifesaver! Tore mine apart and the thermistor was totally cracked into pieces. One thing that I really wish I knew before going into it is that you only need to remove the 1/4 bolts on the very top. I was being dumb and dropped a wrench into the fan housing and had to take the whole thing out to get the wrench back.
Thanks for the video, saved me on a hot day in AZ. I always keep capacitors on hand because they seem to go out at least once a year but when the fan working I knew it was something different. Saw this video, pulled out the blower fan and sure enough it was blown. I didn't have a thermistor so I shorted it for now and its working. I ordered them from Amazon and they will be here this week. Great video. Thanks again.
Thanks for posting this video.
I didn't change my filters frequently enough, evaporator coils froze, fan stopped working. Compressor/condenser outside fine, and no error code on the air-handler board, which led me to your video. The thermistor on my 2.3 ECM (exact same as yours) doesn't look burnt, though. I still went ahead and tried jumping the terminals but now the fan barrel keeps trying to start like an old car -- just goes around for a couple seconds, gives up, goes around for a couple more, gives up, ad infinitum. Here's the kicker -- I removed the jumper, and now get the same result, whereas before the barrel drum did nothing. Weird.
I'm dreading the bill from the AC guys unless there's a solution out there I haven't found.
Got to change out the entire module
@@MaMa-qh4dy Yeah, I bought another ECM. They don't make these anymore, so I got an old one that was supposedly programmed for my Trane XV80. Either it wasn't or was just too old. Rather than running at variable speeds, the fan barrel would hunt. The A/C system was end-of-life, so I bit the bullet and replaced it last summer. Still paying for that. :(
@@JP-hz5zb Yikes! There is a device called Quick Swap that is a board you use with a new PSC motor in place of the ECM motor. This device accommodates multiple fan speeds too. You can check out that company for your reference. A much cheaper alternative than replacing the entire ECM motor/module.
@@MaMa-qh4dy Crap, wish I'd known. I have another XV80, though. If that ECM craps out, I'll know where to go. Thx.
Thank you for the video, I fixed my fan motor module with this video as a guide!
Heck yes thanks so much for making this video brotha. My furnace just went out. I pulled the module and the capacitor was fried just like in your video. I was able to solder in a new one from Amazon and it's working better than before💪. Thank you thank you thank you
Same issue on my XV80 as well. Thank you very much for posting this!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This worked like a charm on my Trane XV80.
OMG!!! thank you for saving me several hundred dollars (maybe thousands, I was considering a whole new HVAC when this thing quit)
This same exact thing happened to me 2 summers ago. I wish this video was created at the time. I was about to spend $500 on a bee module until I seen that blown resistor and ordered 2 from Amazon.
Hey thanks for the video! I'm enjoying cool AC again because of you. I appreciate it!
Thanks for posting this! You just saved me like $300! 😃
Awesome! Glad I could help.
What also saves you is the cause of why it broke. Change your filter every month if you have a 1 inch filter. No higher then a 8 merv rating. You the Homeowners are 90% of the time are responsible for the thermistor that pop. Furances need to be maintained every other year, again homeowners lack of doing their part is why they have issues majority of the time. BTW all of your warranties require you the owners to have records of preventive maintenance being done at least ever few years or your manufacturer will deny your warranty claims after they inspect the parts we are required to return back to them.
I ordered the same thermistor you had but should have also looked at my thermistor. Mine is a SL22 1Ro20. I get continuity when I tested it but I’m willing to gamble $10 to see if it fixes it.
Thanks! Just had the same issue on an XV80
It worked .....THANK YOU
Great info, well done!
The whole reason those blow is because people don't do basic maintenance and don't change their nasty filters enough. As a hvac tech I see it daily. If you have a 1 inch filter change it every month and STOP BUYING those expensive filters that have a merv rating higher then a 8, you are breaking your own equipment using them. Also no such thing as a 90 day 1 inch filter. If you have a 4 Inch media filter don't go higher then a 11 merv rating and change on average ever 6 months. The motors are not at fault, these ECM motors are mandatory by federal law under the EPA. They are very efficient but can't take the same abuse from homeowners as the psc motors could.
Change your filters with the correct ones every month and stop blocking your supplys and returns. Maintenance on your equipment is part of your warranty requirements, homeowners damage their equipment and blame the manufacturers. It is also highly advised to have surge protection on a furance that has these motors which can damage them as well.
I see this daily and makes my blood boil everyone wants to blame the manufacturers but it's not their fault 90% of the time, it's the homeowners. Also stop lying to us techs that you change your filters like you are required to do basic maintenance, we can tell. Don't mean to come off as a ass, but we techs are tired of being lied to and customer getting pissed at us when it's the homeowners fault for the failure. If people don't want the 300-1200 dollar bill. Change your 10 dollar filter every month.
I'm one of those homeowners that have not been changing my air filter. I think it has caused my system to shut off. Can I try a resent first?
@@greenfreshflorals Yes power off the furance and wait 30 seconds and try to reset the board. The control boards will hold fault codes if it doesn't fix it by resetting it.
Can you snip off the old thermistor and solder to the legs without soldering into the board?
Yes
Thanks a bunch man!
Will a bad thermistor cause a blower to work intermittently or just not work at all? Just wondering
I got a replacement control module for my Trane air handler ECM blower. My unit was wired for 240V and the replacement control module was an identical part number however it had a label from Trane (separate from the GE manufacturer label with the model number) which said “wired for 120V”. My thinking is that the module was pulled from a Trane air handler that used a 120V supply and probably had the jumper wire on the high voltage power input plug (5 pin) to provide 120V to both circuits in the control module. My unit is 240V and the 5 pin is not jumpered but directly wired with both sides of the 240V power. Would it be OK to use the replacement? Is this type of labeling by Trane commonplace? Aren’t these ECM modules all dual voltage, just depending on how input power is wired at 5 pin?
Man, that’s way above my head. I’d suggest asking on Reddit in r/hvacadvice if you haven’t already.
I have the same hvac unit and it started making a plastic burning smell tonight. And now the fan won't kick on. Hopefully this is the issue. Did you get any burning smell?
I didn't notice a smell. But I didn't crawl into the attic to take it apart until probably 10 hours after it happened.
Yes, ours produced a burning smell a few hours before it stopped working. When I pulled mine out the thermistor was cracked in three! Thanks to Ty’s video I was able to fix it in less than 15 minutes and for all of $10!
Had the burning plastic smell a few days ago and followed this video to get this ECM out, however mine is different - it has black rubber covering the bare PCB all the way to the sides of the housing, effectively locking it in place. I don't know if digging through it would be OK, I certainly wouldn't want to make it worse. For anyone else: mine is silver instead of green and has fins on the side of it that make it look a bit like a heat sink. Still came out with two bolts though, just not sure how to proceed from here.
Gotta love it when a manufacturer makes easy cheap repairs almost impossible. Oh, but I'm sure that rubber is for the safety of the customer.
I vote start cutting away at the rubber and see where you end up.
Or, I'm sure an AC company would be more than happy to send over a quote for a new, more efficient unit.
@@tywoodruff7533 they wanted $1300 to replace the whole motor with ECM, they either couldn’t or wouldn’t sell me the ECM or replace only that. I could not secure a new ECM from the manufacturer because they only sell them to businesses. I found a used one on eBay for $93 and so far it’s working just fine. I kept the ECM though, to remind myself of poor design, business practices and planned obsolescence.
You may hope to find one on ebay
@@tywoodruff7533 It is ment to protect the components from vibration, it is easly removed with proper chemicals and the fix for the sacrificial thermistor is only about 1.50. The reason they blow is to protect your motor because people are not changing their damn filters and burning them up. See it daily, change your filters on time with the proper merv rating and this will not happen, 1 inch filters must be done every month and no higher then a 8 merv. 4-6 inch media filters last 6 to 9 months. Dirty filters will take years off your furances life cycle.
@@joshhayes3433 They are a good design and are reliable, goes back to the homeowners not doing their part in maintaining their investment. Change your filters as required every month with the proper merv rating and the motors won't go bad on you. As a hvac tech 90% of the failures are because the homeowners are not doing their part. The reason they are so expensive is the new end bells are not normally compatible with the older motor and it is required to change both, otherwise it won't work at all. Simplly they have updated the design of them.
Also the end bell (the part in the video) has to come from the manufacturer because it needs programming done for your particular model furance. Don't get mad at us for the 1300 dollar bills, it's completely preventable. Back on you the Homeowners 90% of the time. Power surges are the second most common reason for failure.
I have a 6205E motor that wont turn off unless you flip the breaker and the HVAC guy says he thinks its a bad motor. Any idea if there is an easy fix?
How did you take off the ecm? I removed all 4 screws I could see on the module but it's still on there very tightly. Any tips?
Actually I was just able to get it off after prying a bit with a screwdriver. Mine looks the same inside. How long did the repair last you?
Still going strong two years later.
@@tywoodruff7533 Awesome. Once I got it apart, mine was totally burned up in the same spot as yours. Found my soldering gun and ordered the same 2 pack of thermistors on Amazon. Hoping to have the AC fixed Sunday.
@@tywoodruff7533 AC works again. Thank you so much for this video. Saved me a ton.
Thanks buddy. Is the resister have to be the same number? Because my is different number.
I was able to solder a new thermistor onto the blower board for $10. I was quoted $2400
I have the same part but mine is covered in black silicone and I dont think I can fix it any ideas greatly appreciated thanks
Yeah, I was worried mine would have that black rubber. I don’t know what to tell you. I guess find a sharp knife and start cutting away at it.
@@tywoodruff7533 actually all the rubber in that area burned away I just made contact with both the wires and now its works until I get my thermistor today
How did you know what to buy? Or where? I can’t read what it says on the package.
My old one said "SG379" on it. I just searched for that on Amazon.
Thanks for this video. Had the burnt smell, dead blower, and sure enough it was that thermistor.
One item to note for others reading this, is that you can temporarily short between the bad thermistor legs to get the unit to run, while you're awaiting your replacement one. We were in a heat wave and I was afraid that we'd be sweating it out for a few days ... but then I saw another video (grayfurnaceman : th-cam.com/video/XfGHC1O9ryk/w-d-xo.html) where he - HVAC tech - said that this is what they do for the customer while awaiting the part to arrive.
Just had a burnt Thermistor today TM9V York
you’re hella smart if you’re really not an ac guy
Haha I did a looot of Googling that weekend.
Hope it lasts.
Change your filter every month if you have a 1 inch filter. No higher then a 8 merv rating. The Homeowners are 90% of the time are responsible for the thermistor that pop. Furances need to be maintained every other year, again homeowners lack of doing their part is why they have issues majority of the time. They blow because the motor has to work harder and harder because the homeowners are NOT changing their filters or they are using way too restrictive of a filter which we warn against and homeowners ignore what we tell them. I see this daily and comes down to maintenance. This honestly makes my blood boil, customer blame the manufacturers when in reality its the owners fault completely for the failure.
@@zack9912000 I'm just happy to learn that the thermistor is there to keep the whole motor from burning up and now I know it's such an easy and cheap fix. Also, if it helps your blood pressure any, I'm now using a merv 8 filter.
@@tywoodruff7533 I just wish more people didn't believe the filter companies bs. Good luck with the repair. Sorry about last post, alot of drinking was.done prior to that
It’s a diode
Oh, ok.
No, it's an NTC thermistor used to limit inrush current. If it was a diode, it would matter which way it was installed.
Junk motor