For anyone who scoffs when Bear mentions composites will last decades note what he says @ 15:20. There is maintenance and light repair. I have a 1997 Bell blackgold, and a 2004 kevlight that are still going strong.
Thank-you for discussing the mechanical characteristics of your various composites. I recently got frustrated with Swift because all Bill Swift does is talk about how they look and how beautiful the different cloths are. *eyeroll* Also a BIG thank-you for being honest about the limitations of 303. I am an auto detailer, and 303 is big with us as well, but for interiors. It just doesn't last very long when subjected to the elements, but so many boaters are given the impression that it is a lasting coating. As an auto detailer, I have access to some amazing ceramic coatings that I apply to my canoe which literally do last for years (assuming it isn't abraded off by rocks/sand, and that is the YMMV part of anything you put on a canoe). I don't expect everyone to go that crazy, but even polymer paint sealants from my industry may be a better solution than 303 for people who want something that isn't quite as short-lived so that they can feel a little better about forgetting to reapply protection as often as they should.
I enjoy your videos and am fixing to order my first solo. I am curious as to your mention that blacklight is “notably more durable”. More durable in what way? My limited research suggests that carbon fiber is less scratch/abrasion resistant than Aramid.
Carbon as an outer layer combined with aramid inner layers creates a more durable lamination than either of them alone in the same number of layers. In other words, BlackLite has notably better impact resistance than StarLite. Carbon does have less abrasion resistance than aramid, however BlackLite has more layers and therefore greater overall abrasion resistance. BlackLite does show scratches more than StarLite - all composites scratch white.
@@jimeagling7508 We use a lot a strategic reinforcements and have sophisticated lamination schedules. That is to say the number of layers varies dramatically based on what part of the canoe you're looking at. Having a lot of layers right below the gunwales would add a lot of unnecessary weight, lots of layers on the bottom is critical to durability.
@@northstarcanoes2404 since I would like to understand let me ask it this way; how many layers of which material on the bottom and is there less layers on a StarLite layup as apposed to BlackLite.
@@jimeagling7508 Layers on the bottom vary too. Stems require more reinforcement than the area covered by the foam core. Your question about BL vs SL is easy - BL has more layers.
The idea of not using gelcoat sounds like a great idea, based on my experience doing gelcoat repairs. I've have been curious why something like automotive paint, which seems to be much more abuse-resistant, has never been used on canoes. Is it incompatible, or an extra step, or what?
We checked into automotive paint years ago. It is not compatible with our resin. It also poses couple other building challenges that would notably increase the cost of the canoes. And more than all that, even if we changed our resin, it would increase the weights of the canoes.
Thanks for doing these videos👍 I have a Blacklite B17 and a Northwind Solo IXP enjoying them both
For anyone who scoffs when Bear mentions composites will last decades note what he says @ 15:20. There is maintenance and light repair. I have a 1997 Bell blackgold, and a 2004 kevlight that are still going strong.
Thank-you for discussing the mechanical characteristics of your various composites. I recently got frustrated with Swift because all Bill Swift does is talk about how they look and how beautiful the different cloths are. *eyeroll*
Also a BIG thank-you for being honest about the limitations of 303. I am an auto detailer, and 303 is big with us as well, but for interiors. It just doesn't last very long when subjected to the elements, but so many boaters are given the impression that it is a lasting coating. As an auto detailer, I have access to some amazing ceramic coatings that I apply to my canoe which literally do last for years (assuming it isn't abraded off by rocks/sand, and that is the YMMV part of anything you put on a canoe). I don't expect everyone to go that crazy, but even polymer paint sealants from my industry may be a better solution than 303 for people who want something that isn't quite as short-lived so that they can feel a little better about forgetting to reapply protection as often as they should.
You are welcome.
Very good information here on maintenance and repair, thank you.
great information loved it.
Consider adding a link to your website in the description...? 🤔
Why would a photographer prefer a red boat? And what is the benefit to getting a white/gold vs a starlite besides cost savings? Durability?
Excellent
Do you use vinyl ester resin rather than epoxy resin for UV protection? Or other reasons? Thanks for these informative videos.
Yes, UV. Also, healthier to work with.
I enjoy your videos and am fixing to order my first solo. I am curious as to your mention that blacklight is “notably more durable”. More durable in what way? My limited research suggests that carbon fiber is less scratch/abrasion resistant than Aramid.
Carbon as an outer layer combined with aramid inner layers creates a more durable lamination than either of them alone in the same number of layers. In other words, BlackLite has notably better impact resistance than StarLite. Carbon does have less abrasion resistance than aramid, however BlackLite has more layers and therefore greater overall abrasion resistance. BlackLite does show scratches more than StarLite - all composites scratch white.
@@northstarcanoes2404 so then how many layers does StarLite have and how many layers for BlackLite?
@@jimeagling7508 We use a lot a strategic reinforcements and have sophisticated lamination schedules. That is to say the number of layers varies dramatically based on what part of the canoe you're looking at. Having a lot of layers right below the gunwales would add a lot of unnecessary weight, lots of layers on the bottom is critical to durability.
@@northstarcanoes2404 since I would like to understand let me ask it this way; how many layers of which material on the bottom and is there less layers on a StarLite layup as apposed to BlackLite.
@@jimeagling7508 Layers on the bottom vary too. Stems require more reinforcement than the area covered by the foam core. Your question about BL vs SL is easy - BL has more layers.
The idea of not using gelcoat sounds like a great idea, based on my experience doing gelcoat repairs. I've have been curious why something like automotive paint, which seems to be much more abuse-resistant, has never been used on canoes. Is it incompatible, or an extra step, or what?
We checked into automotive paint years ago. It is not compatible with our resin. It also poses couple other building challenges that would notably increase the cost of the canoes. And more than all that, even if we changed our resin, it would increase the weights of the canoes.
When you say resin coat do you mean you're coating the mold in resin and letting it harden, then laying up a boat?
The mold is coated with resin, then we immediately put in the first layer of cloth.
What is the name of the boat’s sunscreen?
Artur from Brazil here
303 Aerospace Protectant