Nice job. We all make mistakes like that from time to time. No judgment. I really like the motorcycle jack idea. I'm going to need to try that. Thanks for sharing..
Great video! I love sawing lumber. I painted my house white this summer and sawed cedar up and made my shutters and posts for my porch. They turned out really good. Have a Great day and stay safe!
Howdy Jared- now you got me thinking about getting one of those jacks. I’ve been using a hydraulic bottle jack and keeping it at the head of the mill. I always put trip towards your saw head. Thanks for sharing this. Take care and God bless
Jared, you may know this but your log stops are the wrong way, maybe thats why you need the pvc pipe to roll the log? The angled part of the log stop needs to be facing the log! Love the video!
Mornin' Jared, Another good video, I had an old scissor jack that had been laying around for 40 or 50 years that I welded a bolt to and use my impact to raise logs with, it works pretty well. I like your idea of the measurement off of the bunk that you wrote beside the scale. How's the track extension holding up? Looked pretty good in the video. What is the size of the angle iron in the extension? Have a good one and stay warm.....................
Thanks Harry, it’s holding up pretty well but it could use a little adjusting then some cross members welded in to hold it better, I think it’s 4x4 but I’m not sure. Thanks, You too.
I have the same mill but first mode they made hade it maybe 10 years if you have trouble with boards being say inch in a half on one end and inch and 3/8 on the other. The fix is moving your blade tracking on your drive wheels in or out.
I just don't understand the toe board?? If your mill is cutting strait, than the first cut you make will even the log out won't it? Or the first cut on every 4 sides? Can someone explain the purpose of leveling the log up?
Check out “Lumber Jack” TH-camr and his video “why you should use a toe board with tapered logs on a sawmill” He is an engineer and explains in detail why it’s important and shows how you get a larger cant from doing it that way.
Thanks Jared, I have the same mill and get about 3 hours cut per blade before sharpening. I cut mostly SYP and Oak, just wonder if you are getting about the rate. Thanks!
You’re welcome! I got some .055x1.5” blades vs the .044x1 1/4” that are standard so I actually get 4-5 hrs per blade but I’ve heard they break sooner because of the thickness but I haven’t experienced that yet.
It gets tricky with the toe board and all of the things you just have to remember. I was wondering about the motorcycle jack myself. It is almost identical to what Woodland Mills sells.
A good fix for not guessing how high it is might be to screw a cheap metal ruler to the side of the jack, with the 0 on the ruler level with the top of the jack. Then, you could just level the jack to your bunks and make a mark on the jack at the 1" mark of the ruler. Then, if you know you need to bring it up 3/4 or 1", you would just raise the jack until the 1 3/4 or 2" mark of the ruler was next to the line.
Nice job. We all make mistakes like that from time to time. No judgment. I really like the motorcycle jack idea. I'm going to need to try that. Thanks for sharing..
Great video! I love sawing lumber. I painted my house white this summer and sawed cedar up and made my shutters and posts for my porch. They turned out really good. Have a Great day and stay safe!
That is awesome! I like that look. Thanks
Howdy Jared- now you got me thinking about getting one of those jacks. I’ve been using a hydraulic bottle jack and keeping it at the head of the mill. I always put trip towards your saw head. Thanks for sharing this. Take care and God bless
Howdy brother, harbor freight might have something similar if you have a store nearby.
You’re welcome! Have a blessed day!
Great job
Thanks!
Nice boards brother. I see a guy somewhere using a 60 inch farm jack and a strap to turn the logs. Keep the videos coming, thanks
That’s a good idea.
Thanks Terry, Will do!
Great video man! Looking forward to keeping up with your barn build!
Thanks bro. You and me both lol! I cleared some trees and now it’s raining every week and keeping it a mud mess.
Jared, you may know this but your log stops are the wrong way, maybe thats why you need the pvc pipe to roll the log? The angled part of the log stop needs to be facing the log! Love the video!
Good video and job. We all mess up. It's a lot better wood than pine and the bee's will not eat it up. Take care be safe and well.
Thanks John, I did mess up pretty bad.
Great...thank you🇨🇦
Mornin' Jared, Another good video, I had an old scissor jack that had been laying around for 40 or 50 years that I welded a bolt to and use my impact to raise logs with, it works pretty well. I like your idea of the measurement off of the bunk that you wrote beside the scale.
How's the track extension holding up? Looked pretty good in the video. What is the size of the angle iron in the extension?
Have a good one and stay warm.....................
Thanks Harry, it’s holding up pretty well but it could use a little adjusting then some cross members welded in to hold it better, I think it’s 4x4 but I’m not sure.
Thanks, You too.
I have the same mill but first mode they made hade it maybe 10 years if you have trouble with boards being say inch in a half on one end and inch and 3/8 on the other. The fix is moving your blade tracking on your drive wheels in or out.
Weather looks great there. Im uploading new video tomorrow morning first decent weather we have had for me. Its white here in Michigan.
Yeah I can’t complain, we’re supposed have up to 60 degrees this week.
Awesome! And Enjoy your white stuff 😁
I just don't understand the toe board?? If your mill is cutting strait, than the first cut you make will even the log out won't it? Or the first cut on every 4 sides? Can someone explain the purpose of leveling the log up?
Check out “Lumber Jack” TH-camr and his video “why you should use a toe board with tapered logs on a sawmill” He is an engineer and explains in detail why it’s important and shows how you get a larger cant from doing it that way.
Did you make your track extension yourself?
Yes sir, I made a video on it.
I noticed it looks like you have fabricated your own rails to extend your mill? Difficulties at all ? Or smooth transition..?
It wasn’t too bad. Here’s the video I made about it.
th-cam.com/video/aqY8fe-ExYw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Jared, I have the same mill and get about 3 hours cut per blade before sharpening. I cut mostly SYP and Oak, just wonder if you are getting about the rate. Thanks!
You’re welcome! I got some .055x1.5” blades vs the .044x1 1/4” that are standard so I actually get 4-5 hrs per blade but I’ve heard they break sooner because of the thickness but I haven’t experienced that yet.
It gets tricky with the toe board and all of the things you just have to remember. I was wondering about the motorcycle jack myself. It is almost identical to what Woodland Mills sells.
Yeah and I kinda lose my brain when I’m making a video lol.
I thought it looked similar too, Do you have the woodland mills toe board?
A good fix for not guessing how high it is might be to screw a cheap metal ruler to the side of the jack, with the 0 on the ruler level with the top of the jack. Then, you could just level the jack to your bunks and make a mark on the jack at the 1" mark of the ruler. Then, if you know you need to bring it up 3/4 or 1", you would just raise the jack until the 1 3/4 or 2" mark of the ruler was next to the line.
That’s a good idea! I might be able to just make 1” markings on the side of jack with a permanent marker. Thanks for the comment!
I have same saw, but man u really know how to ruin logs
Ouch! I guess I had that coming. Thanks for watching Sergey.