I know this video is 5 years old at this time, but you really didn't need to cut any of the "extra" length. I have installed these on the assembly line for many years. You did a great job for guessing. It is sort of an art to put them on. Stretch in some instances, and roll on tight in others. That B-pillar garnish should have been removed and you would have had a perfect fit first try.
I have seen guys use rubber cement to help keep the corners from creeping and making air gaps. Also rubber glue at the end junction helps keep it together and quieter.
Great video! The driver door on my 99 Yukon was rattling at the latch every time I hit a small bump. After getting tired of pushing on the door with my elbow to hold the door tight every time I hit a bump, I came across your video that confirmed my issue was the door seal. The rubber has gotten quite weak even though it still looks pretty good. My first 'fix' was to remove the latch post and file the opening a bit to the inside to tighten it up. It worked but the door now closes too far and when you open the back door it catches on the front door. I ordered a new 'universal' rubber strip for about 25 bucks (that's with tax and free shipping and free returns). The OEM ones are around $70-$90.
Thanks for the walk through, very helpful to know where the clips are on the trim. I removed the seatbelts at the floor, made the job a bit easier. Getting the 1999 Suburban updated in many areas, also replaced the front door pins as well. Thanks for putting this together, it it much easier after watching the how to!
Love that blue interior; looks good. I have grey in my 98 'Burban. Tip: when removing the sill plates on the GMT400s for any reason, it helps to remove the seat belt assembly. You wouldn't have had such a fight at that corner.
Had this same issue with my 1999 suburban on the drivers door. I first replaced the worn hinges but the door still shook while driving. I couldn't figure it out but after coming across this video I replaced the weatherstripping and it worked! Very informative thanks
I bought a 1999 Chevy Tahoe LT with a 5.7 about a year ago it had 163,000 Miles on it and I paid $1,400 and need to do everything you have done and probably more I have been putting parts in ever since I by the truck and stiil have a long way to go I love my Tahoe but it sure takes a lot of time and money to get right so I fell your pain
Hello 1 Road. Seeing all of your videos is like seeing just about all the things wrong with my 95 Chevy Suburban. Enjoying that I can see how to fix issues without the headache with your videos. Great video. Thank you for sharing! Keep up the keep up.
I plan on stripping the inside of my 95 c2500 out. Carpets are nasty. Everything from soda to oil was spilled into it. Will also tackle that dashboard to get to the evaporator and heater core to replace it. Might as well add weather stripping to the list.
Jimmy have u had to replace the rear window not the rear door the big one next to third row I have been looking for a video to find out which weather stop I need and or locking gaskit to order please help
Has anyone noticed that this Suburban looks brand new showroom status great videos Man straight up in America build trucks that are made for men not the new crap they made today out of recycle tin cans and plastic bumpers...
I get all my weather-stripping and molding from LMC. It's worth it to know it'll work. I've done the seals on my 93 'Burban and this past week on my 98 'Burban. I have a video of it on my channel. I need to do the passenger doors now.
My 93 'Burban was the second truck I ever bought and I ran it for 250,000 miles then traded it in on my 98. Had a 2000 Z71 Tahoe, once, too, so my 98 is technically the third GMT400 I've owned.
Jimmy - panel removal tools are your friends. ))))) Also, if yu loosen up some of the dash panels and/or remove some of the plastic components in the car, you'll save yourself a bunch of headaches.
I have to get my '99 suburban done. The rubber is all flat and back doors rattle. Only thing is i dont want to do it, i rather just pay and have it done. Who replaces weather stripping on cars? I asked my repair shop to do it and they were like meh. Do body shops do that stuff?
I’m going to replace my seal in the next couple days. I was told to use adhesive but it looks like you didn’t use adhesive do you think you should’ve used adhesive or do you think it’s unnecessary
Another common area of door rattles is the actual latch assembly. The moving part of the latch is plastic coated and it breaks down and falls off during use over the years. The latches are available from China made non stock but they're junk. Buy actual GM made from eBay or dealerships. They're pricey... but worth it. Mine stopped all door sagging and rattling issues.
that door and that rear door were both dragging on the striker pin/ worn hinge bushings, rattle on the striker pin...the only thing a door can even rattle on. new strip would compensate for it though, for a while anyway!
:40 bad hinge/pin bushings causes that drag and pop when opened. the weight of the door is on the striker pin when shut, should be floating above it and latching around it, only going to get worse and more noisy until fixed or you can be lazy and just lower the striker pin a bit!LOL
You could’ve gotten a suburban with the barn door option because that is the best option on a Suburban, Yukon, Tahoe or the 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
Remember use the utility sink to clean the the door sill don't use the kitchen sink. You will be cleaning that sink for a week afterwards and have to do the dishes for a month. Also don't clean the engine in the bath tub. You will be building a dog house to sleep in if you do that.
I know this video is 5 years old at this time, but you really didn't need to cut any of the "extra" length. I have installed these on the assembly line for many years. You did a great job for guessing. It is sort of an art to put them on. Stretch in some instances, and roll on tight in others. That B-pillar garnish should have been removed and you would have had a perfect fit first try.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience and process. You have saved me so time and solved so many mysteries. I wanted to buy you another beer.
Very gracious of you 🤙
Thankyou for this video! Like others, I did the pins with limited benefit. The seals made the difference. The impact was huge! Thank you!!!!
I have seen guys use rubber cement to help keep the corners from creeping and making air gaps. Also rubber glue at the end junction helps keep it together and quieter.
Great video! The driver door on my 99 Yukon was rattling at the latch every time I hit a small bump. After getting tired of pushing on the door with my elbow to hold the door tight every time I hit a bump, I came across your video that confirmed my issue was the door seal. The rubber has gotten quite weak even though it still looks pretty good.
My first 'fix' was to remove the latch post and file the opening a bit to the inside to tighten it up. It worked but the door now closes too far and when you open the back door it catches on the front door.
I ordered a new 'universal' rubber strip for about 25 bucks (that's with tax and free shipping and free returns). The OEM ones are around $70-$90.
Thanks for the walk through, very helpful to know where the clips are on the trim. I removed the seatbelts at the floor, made the job a bit easier. Getting the 1999 Suburban updated in many areas, also replaced the front door pins as well. Thanks for putting this together, it it much easier after watching the how to!
Great video. That thin piece by the dash is a pain!
Love that blue interior; looks good. I have grey in my 98 'Burban. Tip: when removing the sill plates on the GMT400s for any reason, it helps to remove the seat belt assembly. You wouldn't have had such a fight at that corner.
Had this same issue with my 1999 suburban on the drivers door. I first replaced the worn hinges but the door still shook while driving. I couldn't figure it out but after coming across this video I replaced the weatherstripping and it worked! Very informative thanks
I don't see these on LMC anymore, having a hard time finding these, any idea where else?
I bought a 1999 Chevy Tahoe LT with a 5.7 about a year ago it had 163,000 Miles on it and I paid $1,400 and need to do everything you have done and probably more I have been putting parts in ever since I by the truck and stiil have a long way to go I love my Tahoe but it sure takes a lot of time and money to get right so I fell your pain
Hello 1 Road. Seeing all of your videos is like seeing just about all the things wrong with my 95 Chevy Suburban. Enjoying that I can see how to fix issues without the headache with your videos. Great video. Thank you for sharing! Keep up the keep up.
I plan on stripping the inside of my 95 c2500 out. Carpets are nasty. Everything from soda to oil was spilled into it. Will also tackle that dashboard to get to the evaporator and heater core to replace it. Might as well add weather stripping to the list.
Well done Jimmy. I need to do the same to my 98 Tahoe, and your video has given me the courage and confidence to knock this project out!
7:13 what’s that trim peice called that you have to take off, I broke both of mine and don’t know what there called to order them
Jimmy have u had to replace the rear window not the rear door the big one next to third row I have been looking for a video to find out which weather stop I need and or locking gaskit to order please help
The dent in the rail at 5:20 is from someone slamming the seat belt in the door.
I'm late af, but definitely appreciate you man💯 got a 99 5.7 suburban with little stuff here and there being annoying.
Ordered the same stuff for a 94' Yukon, exact same era truck, good moulding but the door will hardly close. About like you at 14 minutes gudentight
Has anyone noticed that this Suburban looks brand new showroom status great videos Man straight up in America build trucks that are made for men not the new crap they made today out of recycle tin cans and plastic bumpers...
How did you get that troublesome trim cover off on the driver side between the kick panel and the A-pillar? Enquiring minds want to know!
Im not even done with the video and I have to say great job, lots of detail
Thanks for the compliment!!
what is that rubber strip call right above the weather strip at the top of the door? That's what I need because mine is all tore up.
Check LMC's catalog. They sell most everything you'd want and their diagrams are factory diagrams.
I just purchased that upper weatherstrip rail from LMC and am going to install tomorrow on my 93 burb. I'll let you know how it goes.
I get all my weather-stripping and molding from LMC. It's worth it to know it'll work. I've done the seals on my 93 'Burban and this past week on my 98 'Burban. I have a video of it on my channel. I need to do the passenger doors now.
My 93 'Burban was the second truck I ever bought and I ran it for 250,000 miles then traded it in on my 98. Had a 2000 Z71 Tahoe, once, too, so my 98 is technically the third GMT400 I've owned.
Jimmy - panel removal tools are your friends. ))))) Also, if yu loosen up some of the dash panels and/or remove some of the plastic components in the car, you'll save yourself a bunch of headaches.
Have you replaced the rear barn doors weatherstripping?
@1road Did the doors ever get easier to close?
Ok how do i remove that peice off thr gmc envoy i don't see any screws or bolts so i think its a snap on but i dont wanna break it
I have to get my '99 suburban done. The rubber is all flat and back doors rattle. Only thing is i dont want to do it, i rather just pay and have it done. Who replaces weather stripping on cars? I asked my repair shop to do it and they were like meh. Do body shops do that stuff?
Dude, I don’t think it’ll be cost effective to have someone else do it. It’s easy to do but just takes a lot of time
I’m going to replace my seal in the next couple days. I was told to use adhesive but it looks like you didn’t use adhesive do you think you should’ve used adhesive or do you think it’s unnecessary
What is the piece on the actual door at the bottom that runs the length of the door?
I have a 1992 chevy s10 like to find weather stripping for it
Great video. Have 98 Silverado ext cab. Going to order some new weather stripe
i got the upper body mount weatherstripping from lmc truck and it was so thick my doors wouldn't shut. I don't trust their products anymore
Another common area of door rattles is the actual latch assembly. The moving part of the latch is plastic coated and it breaks down and falls off during use over the years. The latches are available from China made non stock but they're junk. Buy actual GM made from eBay or dealerships. They're pricey... but worth it. Mine stopped all door sagging and rattling issues.
that door and that rear door were both dragging on the striker pin/ worn hinge bushings, rattle on the striker pin...the only thing a door can even rattle on. new strip would compensate for it though, for a while anyway!
:40 bad hinge/pin bushings causes that drag and pop when opened. the weight of the door is on the striker pin when shut, should be floating above it and latching around it, only going to get worse and more noisy until fixed or you can be lazy and just lower the striker pin a bit!LOL
if the striker pin is supposed to have a plastic strike collar on it , that could be the only problem if its gone(autozone $10?)
Thanks, this is very helpful. No adhesive needed?
+Christine Anderson No adhesive at all.
Looks like your heater core was leaking into the passenger seat under the weatherstripping
Where do you buy the seal?
You could’ve gotten a suburban with the barn door option because that is the best option on a Suburban, Yukon, Tahoe or the 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
Good video
Outstanding
great video thanks for sharing
I just added a strip of Amazon weather seal to the inside parameter of the door.
Steve Ruedas what type ?
Remember use the utility sink to clean the the door sill don't use the kitchen sink. You will be cleaning that sink for a week afterwards and have to do the dishes for a month.
Also don't clean the engine in the bath tub. You will be building a dog house to sleep in if you do that.
there's no sound.
Wow! No shouting! :) Your new videos are great, just don't shout into the camera mic.
Is it me or does Jimmy seem high as a kite?
True. A bit sedated.
It’s a driver not a drill bud, nice vid thx