One thing I've noticed when these direct drive washers work correctly is that sometimes at the end of neutral drain, the spin clutch engages either loudly or softly. But other times, it doesn't occur at the end of neutral drain at all until the very beginning of spin, which is when you hear that very loud clunk. Either time is fine, but the part when the spin clutch engages at the beginning of spin rather than at the end of neutral drain leads me to believe that the machine is working at its very best.
@tristangardner3889 I fully agree with all you've said. My 1986 Kenmore 60 series was a PRIME example of a machine that you couldn't _possibly_ cause to go into spin prematurely. Even sitting out in the cold shed for 2 years not being touched, first run-up on the suds-return portion of the timer--only needed about 5 seconds of agitation to reset the mechanism for neutral drain, and it wasn't going anywhere by that point, not a chance. That machine must have NEVER been in a cold environment. Once I even got it to neutral drain on low speed! And now that the neutral drain has been replaced in my 92 machine, it works correctly even being ran for only 6 minute washes on low speed to start out with, which is usually what my dad always does his loads on. I think that's partially why it wore out before.
Very informative video! It is however important to note that if you have a direct drive with a perforated ring around the rim, it is designed to spin during pump-out. These units were manufactured between 1981-1985
Very nicely detailed…For oil I used a 90 weight synthetic gear oil made for marine outboard lower drive units. Cheaper and better than the Whirlpool branded oil.
The transmissions in the belt drives almost never needed to be opened up, only time they would need to be cracked open is if the spring broke which puts pressure on the shifter fork assembly, basically that drops down and meshes with the agitator shaft which is what engages agitation. Believe I explained this 3 years ago explaining on how the Whirlpool belt drive transmission works. Not many parts inside the belt drive transmissions since there’s a total of 7 to 9 parts inside total.
These didn't need it much either. They do now because parts have cheapened up since the discontinuation of them. The belt drives never really had transmission issues to speak of, it usually is the wig-wag that goes first, but that's on top where you can actually get to it right then and there.
@@lizboz the older style of wig wag aka control magnet assembly as quite a bit more substantial than the ones used after 1965/1966. In the one repair manual I have from 1962, it shows you can rebuild those older control magnet assemblies. Even the older 4 port pumps can be disassembled and rebuilt as well.
@@lizboz before consumerism and planned obsolescence began to run amok. This may be slightly off the tracks, but there are some current production vehicles which literally have headlights that cost over $1000+ a piece, it seems as though everything I predicted 10 years ago is slowly but surely coming true. It seems as though people don’t realize until it’s too late.
Unfortunately this is a very common problem with these machines, however it's not very likely to affect either the motor or the transmission as the spin clutch is what slips as the basket picks up speed. The machine certainly will go through clutches like crazy if it's not neutral draining. I always recommend replacing the oil during this process because it can thicken with age which will hinder operation. The spin gear is a crucial component of the mechanism, with the latch grabbing the cam underneath to prevent the spin pawl from engaging. If the button on the gear is worn out, preventing the reset, then it will slip into spin guaranteed.
Thanks! Yeah the _RIGHT way_ to do it would be OEM, but when you're like me, you'll always find other alternatives that work just as well, if not even better than the original factory spec stuff. Luckily I did end up finding a different brand oil that works as well AND doesn't stink anymore when you run it! So that's what's in there now. And yes, this is the 92 Kenmore.
WOW washing Machine drive direct capacity 🎉
@@guillermovielma9203 What a ting!
Unbelievably impressive
My wonderful friends, the direct drive washers. I will always love them 😊
They'll be around.
One thing I've noticed when these direct drive washers work correctly is that sometimes at the end of neutral drain, the spin clutch engages either loudly or softly. But other times, it doesn't occur at the end of neutral drain at all until the very beginning of spin, which is when you hear that very loud clunk. Either time is fine, but the part when the spin clutch engages at the beginning of spin rather than at the end of neutral drain leads me to believe that the machine is working at its very best.
@tristangardner3889 I fully agree with all you've said. My 1986 Kenmore 60 series was a PRIME example of a machine that you couldn't _possibly_ cause to go into spin prematurely. Even sitting out in the cold shed for 2 years not being touched, first run-up on the suds-return portion of the timer--only needed about 5 seconds of agitation to reset the mechanism for neutral drain, and it wasn't going anywhere by that point, not a chance.
That machine must have NEVER been in a cold environment. Once I even got it to neutral drain on low speed!
And now that the neutral drain has been replaced in my 92 machine, it works correctly even being ran for only 6 minute washes on low speed to start out with, which is usually what my dad always does his loads on. I think that's partially why it wore out before.
I would enjoy having an older Kenmore washer (and hopefully, a matching dryer) like that in my own home someday, even one from the early 90s.
Very informative video! It is however important to note that if you have a direct drive with a perforated ring around the rim, it is designed to spin during pump-out. These units were manufactured between 1981-1985
Right, that's a very good point. Not a lot of those left anymore today!
@@lizboz I just found one on Facebook marketplace
@@Makesdonsdonsoney Nice, did you get it?
@@lizboz no not yet but working on it
@@Makesdonsdonsoney If you do, I'd love to see videos on it.
Very nicely detailed…For oil I used a 90 weight synthetic gear oil made for marine outboard lower drive units. Cheaper and better than the Whirlpool branded oil.
Thanks! And for the info on the oil; that's an interesting option I'll have to look into, thanks!
The transmissions in the belt drives almost never needed to be opened up, only time they would need to be cracked open is if the spring broke which puts pressure on the shifter fork assembly, basically that drops down and meshes with the agitator shaft which is what engages agitation. Believe I explained this 3 years ago explaining on how the Whirlpool belt drive transmission works. Not many parts inside the belt drive transmissions since there’s a total of 7 to 9 parts inside total.
These didn't need it much either. They do now because parts have cheapened up since the discontinuation of them.
The belt drives never really had transmission issues to speak of, it usually is the wig-wag that goes first, but that's on top where you can actually get to it right then and there.
@@lizboz the older style of wig wag aka control magnet assembly as quite a bit more substantial than the ones used after 1965/1966. In the one repair manual I have from 1962, it shows you can rebuild those older control magnet assemblies. Even the older 4 port pumps can be disassembled and rebuilt as well.
@seana806 Ahh, before consumerism in society was prominent....
@@lizboz before consumerism and planned obsolescence began to run amok. This may be slightly off the tracks, but there are some current production vehicles which literally have headlights that cost over $1000+ a piece, it seems as though everything I predicted 10 years ago is slowly but surely coming true. It seems as though people don’t realize until it’s too late.
@@seana806 We knew that would be a thing since the turn of the millennia.
Unfortunately this is a very common problem with these machines, however it's not very likely to affect either the motor or the transmission as the spin clutch is what slips as the basket picks up speed. The machine certainly will go through clutches like crazy if it's not neutral draining.
I always recommend replacing the oil during this process because it can thicken with age which will hinder operation. The spin gear is a crucial component of the mechanism, with the latch grabbing the cam underneath to prevent the spin pawl from engaging. If the button on the gear is worn out, preventing the reset, then it will slip into spin guaranteed.
@@andrewg593 All good points, and well put.
Excellent tutorial video. I know its pricey, but this is why I always use the OEM Whirlpool gear oil. You can't go wrong. Was this your 92 Kenmore?
Thanks! Yeah the _RIGHT way_ to do it would be OEM, but when you're like me, you'll always find other alternatives that work just as well, if not even better than the original factory spec stuff. Luckily I did end up finding a different brand oil that works as well AND doesn't stink anymore when you run it! So that's what's in there now.
And yes, this is the 92 Kenmore.