I love that you have your dad there, and that you're asking him why he built it the way he did. I wish my dad was still around. What a blessing dads are to us.
Pop's is a testament of the greatest generation. Set a goal, plan and plan some more and get to work and sort through the trouble spots that arise. You are a blessed man for having a father like him. Great outcome gentlemen.
Thank you I agree. He has instilled in me his work ethic and "can do attitude". I'm very thankful to have him and enjoy working on projects together with him.
I've watched lots of videos and rarely comment but just had to say thanks for this one. I really learned a lot and look forward to seeing this mill in action. I was impressed by two major items; your humility and candid corrections without just editing them out and the second thing was the respect and compliments you gave 'pops' he really deserves them. I plan to start milling soon with a woodmiser LT-15 and feel good about being part his community of sawers. And if you could go a little more in depth about blade tension and tracking I would appreciate it. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for posting. I myself like videos where people are themselves and just simply correct verbal miscues. It seems more genuine to me, and yeah I give Pop all the credit. He is super intelligent. I will try to put together a video on tracking and how tension affects it.
This is one of the cleanest builds i've seen. Very well thought out. I been plannin a build for better part of 10years. So thinkin to start a build next year once i get moved into new state/property. Awesome job. Thanks for sharing.
I had to back up once, saw a couple sparks from metal and pulled back. So, You need wedges to pry open the cut just a little and you can probably back out. I used a chain saw to cut off the partial slab and locate the piece of metal to pull it out.
Great mill build gentlemen. The part that touches me most is the father- son time together. Cherish that time. It's as the Bible days... "like a vapor that appears for a little while then vanishes away". Having lost my Dad back in 2020, I'll just say again... cherish the time! Blessings to you
Just stumbled on to your channel ! Liked & Subed I know you already know this but Pop's is one of a kind ! No si'gogglin with that mill !! Cherish your time with him !!!! May God bless y'all !!!
Loved this video - just getting into milling and saw mills in general. Don't even know the beginning of how they work, I Just know I love carpentry and one day the dream is to have a piece of land where I can put my own mill
Very nice, well done! I will have to watch this a few more times. Considering how quickly that thing can cut a man in half safety is a necessity! I believer the "rubber" part is called a "tire", first time I heard it I thought "no I want a rubber thing for my bandsaw!"
Thanks. It's still a work in progress. We are always looking to improve and/or upgrade. Pop is pretty clever. 😎 You should go for it and build one if you have the means, something safe and basic then upgrade from there.
That's a pretty complex system with movement and geared carriage.. I've seen much simplier designs, but you have the adventage of automation and spare your energy to run it.. =) Hats down, excelent build.
Nice job on the fabrication. Your Dad's got skills. You may have already done so but have your Dad look into some bent sheet metal guarding for the sprockets and chain runs. As menitioned, you have a lot of torque on that gearbox and motor.
That is a nice build! I built a similar one that I have been using for 30 years. The one thing I'd recommend is a direct reading blade tensioner. I have a hydraulic one with a hydraulic gauge so I can see the tension and make adjustments as needed on the go. Also the gauge will give you a good indication when to blade gets dull.
I like your scrubber for your round bar. I will be adding a set on my mill oil soaked to keep my rails lubricated. I used an aluminum ruler with magnets for my scale. It is handy to be able to zero the scale for cutting a specific thickness board. Its fun to see similarities and differences between other homemade mills.
@@redstemorchard For sure I built my mill having never seen on in real life just by watching videos on youtube. I have a bunch of videos on my channel about my mill check it out for possible inspiration.
That is a awesome build!!! I am planning on building a new one this year because the one I built isn't rigid and stiff when running but saws really well. I wasn't really sure if my mill would work but it does but needs improved. I have been studying Cooks sawmills for a while because they build good mills. Your Pops mill is really nice and a great build!!!! Really enjoy and appreciate both of you making the video and sharing your craftsmanship!!! Look forward to seeing more videos!!!!!
You are a lucky man to have a pops that is smart enough to build a rig like this from scratch and it is way better than anything on the market for a who lot less $ .my dad was the same way build anything out of nothing. Great job guys keep building.
Thanks. Pop wanted to have a cover over the sawmill before he finished it and moved it out of the garage, so we built an extension of the shed roof coming off of the shop. It worked out nice.
There are actually ideas from a couple of different manufacturers and individuals. Pop originally looked at buying a Cooks mill, as they are very well made, but..... Pop being Pop decided why not build one myself and incorporate the things I like into it.
Thanks for solving a problem for me .I have built a five foot X 10 foot router sled for flattening slabs table tops and mantels . Originally it was a manual machine that is now powered by a wheel chair motor like the one you are using . Problem was the carriage racking on start and stop .Bingo dual drive and proximity switches for end of cut stopping . I am also in North Georgia (Rome) would love to visit and look at your mill .
Thanks for the thorough overview. Very well thought out and built machine. Was your father an engineer or a technician for a machine tool company? This sawmill is truly on another level.
Good, solid design. I've been building one too for a while and got a few ideas from this video to help me. Mine is about a foot wider which I'm sure is a mistake somehow, but it is what it is so I hope it works.
Thanks. Surplus center. H bush, 18.75" single groove pulley. Part# 1-bkh190 the H Bush is determined by the shaft diameter you are running. You'll have to pick up a B size belt for the pulley I believe it's a B56....... But don't quote me on that.
Wow what an impressive mill! Pop did an outstanding job building this. I built a homemade sawmill about 3 years ago and had the exact same problem with the blade tracking from the adjustable blade pulley. I will try your solution using a bolt and torque wrench for tightening the blade. repeatability is what I need. also a quick question. How often do you have to re-tension the blade as the blade heats up while cutting? I also use soapy water for blade cooling
When I built my own mills ..... I used the quarter inch to the full turn for raising and lowering. It surely does have advantages on the auto adjust and stops so that it will only drop as far as you want it to. The biggest advantage of it is when the blade clears the cut, you can just bump the blade up a bit so when dragging the saw back for the next cut, you don't drag the blade off of the saw by hitting the log. I ain't got too much of a vocabulary.... I'm seventy three now and wishing I was thirty seven. Depending on what I cut was why I always had the circular saw around to just make cants. I am still trying to remember how I made my tool for the auto adjust for lap siding. The lap siding will give you so much more out of a cant or whole tree for that matter. I experimented with doing a resaw for making lap siding and its hard to go from say six inch lap to twelve inch lap or any size that your going for. If I was standing in my shop again, I could make one pronto. Meaning one side of the lap is quarter inch and the other being a three quarter inch so that when you saw a one inch thick board, you had enough wood to get both boards the same and not lose it in saw curf. (advantages of a bandsaw mill) I was in northwest corner of washington state then. After I moved to alaska in 1970, I built a circle saw mill right away and must of cut two hundred cabins of lumber the first year. I couldn't cut enough to keep up with people moving in on the southwest islands (Prince of Wales) so when I got back down to washington state again in the late seventies, I bought a bunch of old saws that were used for sawing shakes for roofs. After fighting with other designs, decided the time had come to just build my own. I don't know how many I made but I know that there was not any two mills the same as I just would get ideas to try on the next one. I went to alaska to work as a mechanic but no job is just doing "that job only". I enjoyed working for the small companies the most as the smiles make all the difference. Guys who had braved winter months in a army tent now living in a cabin with a wood stove were some mighty happy campers.
Consider putting a couple of shutoff switches at the ends to keep it from breaking the chain. Only shuts off in the original direction of travel. So you can still back it out.
We have considered that, it does have adjustable stops which are magnetic pickup, but only stops the carriage not shut everything down like an emergency stop from an overrun.
That is an interesting machine. I’m going through all your videos and they’re knowledgeable with vast information. Where are you and Pops home based out of like state ?
I too would like to see the electronic design. I am building a sawmill myself from a project mill that never got finished. I wish you had a blueprint for the sled as that is the weak part of my saw. Do you think you will ever put a set of plans together for the whole saw. I would be willing to pay for them and I am sure many others would too. Thx.
Nice work. I built a sawmill using mostly junk I found. it's nowhere as pretty and solid as yours but it does the job 😂 Id say it took at least 350 hours to build and I can tell yours would be WAY more. Yours is seriously nice and far less likely to kill you than mine 🤠 Great work! Serious talent and skill at work.
Thanks for the compliment. I admire anyone who does things themselves. 👍 Pop is pretty amazing at making things. We are working on upgrades to it now. I don't know that it will ever be totally finished. 😉
You wouldn’t happen to know the info on the scooter motor so I can get the same one? POP’s is a Valuable Resource in a World of Few. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🫡
Great job! I know you've been asked this question before, but do you have any plans?? I want to build one and would like some dimensions on the saw apparatus or the part that rolls on the rail. Thanks so much!
I do not. Pop didn't make any formal plans. The band wheels are 20" and the blade is an off the shelf 113"long Wood mizer brand. The guides will clear a 32"wide log. Hope that helps.
Your guy's mill is quite a machine, looks well-built and some serious country engineering was put to use. I have a couple questions if you have a minute to answer. Where did the blade wheels come from? They look like a large belt pulley. It's hard to tell or see in the video, but the blade wheels look like they have some sort of filler in the belt groove if they are that type of pulley. What was the feet per minute you guys targeted the blade to run? Very nice looking and well-built sawmill.
18.75" V belt pulleys from Surplus Center.Com. The belt that we use is a B56. With the belt it works out to almost 59" circumference. You have to use an H bushing for the diameter shaft you run. Our target speed is between 4,000-4500 fpm. That works out roughly to 3200-3600 engine rpm the way we have ours geared. Hope that helps.
@@redstemorchard So the blade runs on the b section pulley without any type of filler in the belt groove? The blade is wide enough to cover the groove up, yet the pulley can drive the blade as it is metal on metal. I have a vertical metal (or wood, determined by blade being used) cutting band saw that has metal wheels, but there is a rubber ring around the wheels. And these wheels are metal and flat all the way across the face where the rubber goes. Maybe I'm not asking correctly, and this could help. If you were between the blade wheels looking at either wheel, you will see an open belt groove. There are others built in such a way that the drive belt drives the blade with the belt from the engine. Thanks for your help.
@@wadehearn6230 there is a belt on each pulley filling the groove. The B56 Belt is the size that fits the groove and stands proud. The blade rides on the belt not the pulley. No steel on steel contact. If that makes sense.
Nice video, I built my mill also, was wondering where you got the weatherproof control box. As I only have an ammo can with my controls in it. I am working on getting cameras to do my own videos, will hopefully be uploading them pretty soon. Thanks
Super cool. Pop said he salvaged the control box off of a piece of equipment years ago and just repurposed it. Might try an equipment salvage yard if there is one near you.
How does your Chain drive work, Chain on each side, fwd and Reverse, does the chains come up both sides to a sprocket, I started building a mill last year, Got real sick, almost wasn't here any more, at 65 and still building things like this, with know help. Thanks for any help you can give
What's the model number for the hoveround gearmotor you used for the travel? Awesome build by the way. Look forward to more videos. I am in the process of building one 52" wide bed x 24ft long with tandem axles. I am finally at the stage of doing something for the travel and for lifting the head.
Pop said they didn't have part numbers, but he got them on eBay(advertised for electric chair/scooter) , and also Surpluscenter.com carries motors just like them(power chair) the sell left and right hand drive. He paid $100 a pc. for them. They may come with a metric shaft. We have three of them and two of them are spur gears and the one on the mill is a worm drive with neutral lever to disengage the gears. I recommend the later for a drive setup. Hope this helps. Congrats on your build! 👍
The reason you put the small in of the log facing the head is because limbs grow up hill and it keeps the blade from trying to slide over the limb causing wavy cuts.
Thanks. Didn't think of that before. Always tried to lead with the small end, easier to see how much clean wood could be cut. Of course with the laser on the machine, it's kind of a moot point other than your idea. I'll pay attention to that next log.
@@redstemorchard A circular mill cuts down on a knot and has a lot of mass but a band mill has to cut through the knot and will try to deflect the blade so its better to have the knot facing the blade.
@@redstemorchard I found them and bookmarked it for now. My mill lives outside once it gets a permanent home and under cover I would like to add more electronics. Keeping it simple for now.
There is a 24 tooth sprocket on the drive motor which pulls a 48 tooth sprocket on the drive shaft which has a 12 tooth sprocket on each end as the final drive which is what actually pulls the carriage along. We are however about to speed up the drive, since we can max out the forward speed and still need more when cutting through smaller cants and most pine.
So far that hasn't been a problem. We do have an airline run which we periodically blow everything off. The drive chain stays clear for the most part though.
Not lazy but used to. Inch and mm are really completely different ways of measuring and counting, right? I'm used to mm and to me inches and feet are almost like the Greek language. Nice movie, thanks a lot.
25hp, but Pop found a deal on the 27hp Kohler. Trees in our area don't typically get much over that diameter, so Pop figured it would be enough. Also, it should be able to cut a larger diameter log with some well thought out planning and cutting.
I don't have a material list breakdown unfortunately I wasn't around for a lot of the build. Pop said he spent around $2,500 in steel alone.... But that was before inflation got bad. Total spent was around $8500 or so. I wanna say the motor cost $2300 pre inflation. Some of the parts he already had, so I can't give a more accurate cost. Sorry I hope this helps in some way.
I just stumbled across your video. Great mill you have there. We built a mill and so many similarities. Funny to see on others also. Great job. If you have a second look at our video too. Thanks for the video. Awesome!
I love that you have your dad there, and that you're asking him why he built it the way he did. I wish my dad was still around. What a blessing dads are to us.
Gentlemen, that's a seriously impressive build. Thanks for sharing.
Pop's is a testament of the greatest generation. Set a goal, plan and plan some more and get to work and sort through the trouble spots that arise. You are a blessed man for having a father like him. Great outcome gentlemen.
Thank you I agree. He has instilled in me his work ethic and "can do attitude". I'm very thankful to have him and enjoy working on projects together with him.
@@redstemorchard I am in 100% agreement with Todd Wheeler 15. The greatest generation is behind us. May God bless all of them. 🇨🇦✌️
Your DAD is a supper intelligent man: love the way he thinks on putting things together.
Well thought out! Thank goodness we have men who think things through and I’m talking about dad.
No doubt. Thanks for your compliment.
just plain AWESOME! Great job! You can not purchase one made this good!! EAT YOUR HEART OUT WOODMIZER!
Truly enjoyed this, thank you and I hope pops keeps going and creating great machinery. thank you both.
Thank you.
WOW one of the best-engendered homemade mills I have ever seen and believe me I have watched a lot of videos well done .
That’s a serious self build mill 👏👏
I've watched lots of videos and rarely comment but just had to say thanks for this one. I really learned a lot and look forward to seeing this mill in action. I was impressed by two major items; your humility and candid corrections without just editing them out and the second thing was the respect and compliments you gave 'pops' he really deserves them. I plan to start milling soon with a woodmiser LT-15 and feel good about being part his community of sawers. And if you could go a little more in depth about blade tension and tracking I would appreciate it. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for posting. I myself like videos where people are themselves and just simply correct verbal miscues. It seems more genuine to me, and yeah I give Pop all the credit. He is super intelligent. I will try to put together a video on
tracking and how tension affects it.
This is one of the cleanest builds i've seen. Very well thought out. I been plannin a build for better part of 10years. So thinkin to start a build next year once i get moved into new state/property.
Awesome job. Thanks for sharing.
Very nice Work! Greatings from Germany.
Danke
I had to back up once, saw a couple sparks from metal and pulled back. So, You need wedges to pry open the cut just a little and you can probably back out. I used a chain saw to cut off the partial slab and locate the piece of metal to pull it out.
Great mill build gentlemen. The part that touches me most is the father- son time together. Cherish that time. It's as the Bible days... "like a vapor that appears for a little while then vanishes away". Having lost my Dad back in 2020, I'll just say again... cherish the time! Blessings to you
I'm very thankful for my time with Pop. I'm blessed and I know it. Thank you for sharing.
Just stumbled on to your channel ! Liked & Subed
I know you already know this but
Pop's is one of a kind !
No si'gogglin with that mill !!
Cherish your time with him !!!!
May God bless y'all !!!
Thanks for the sub!
You and Pop Built One Mean Saw!
Pop's Wood Slicer 9000 is probably the best diy mill I've seen on you tube
Thanks! Working on upgrades now.
Loved this video - just getting into milling and saw mills in general. Don't even know the beginning of how they work, I Just know I love carpentry and one day the dream is to have a piece of land where I can put my own mill
Thanks, and that is a great dream to have. I thoroughly love carpentry as well. 👊
Very nice, well done!
I will have to watch this a few more times.
Considering how quickly that thing can cut a man in half safety is a necessity!
I believer the "rubber" part is called a "tire", first time I heard it I thought "no I want a rubber thing for my bandsaw!"
Wow, really impressed with your build. Hats off to your pops! I’m contemplating building one myself and y’all have set the bar for sure!!
Thanks. It's still a work in progress. We are always looking to improve and/or upgrade. Pop is pretty clever. 😎 You should go for it and build one if you have the means, something safe and basic then upgrade from there.
Your father and you did a great job building your mill nice
Thanks. It's a work in progress as we are always looking for ways to improve it. We have some upgrades in the works right now.
That's a pretty complex system with movement and geared carriage.. I've seen much simplier designs, but you have the adventage of automation and spare your energy to run it.. =) Hats down, excelent build.
Thanks, yeah Pop didn't want to over work himself.😁 He watched a lot of people using push mills and said yeah I'm too old for that.
Really enjoyed this, I respect anyone from pop's generation and the relationship you two share is priceless, thanks for sharing!👊
Thanks for watching. 👊
Very good.
If I were to build I would use acme thread rod for elevation with a winch motor for screw drive.
I love your chain drive.
Totaling awesome build . Did it right ! The only way .
Thanks. It's not perfect but it works well.
The only thing I found missing is the coffee cup holder, otherwise an excellent build.
Nice job on the fabrication. Your Dad's got skills.
You may have already done so but have your Dad look into some bent sheet metal guarding for the sprockets and chain runs. As menitioned, you have a lot of torque on that gearbox and motor.
That is a nice build! I built a similar one that I have been using for 30 years. The one thing I'd recommend is a direct reading blade tensioner. I have a hydraulic one with a hydraulic gauge so I can see the tension and make adjustments as needed on the go. Also the gauge will give you a good indication when to blade gets dull.
Thank you for the advice. We are looking into improving the tensioning setup, I agree with you 100%.
Nice build. Looks well engineered
Thank you. Pop did the engineer part he deserves all the credit.😉
That was very nice thank you so much
You bet. Thanks for watching!
Great sawmill Pop
He says thanks. 👍
I like your scrubber for your round bar. I will be adding a set on my mill oil soaked to keep my rails lubricated. I used an aluminum ruler with magnets for my scale. It is handy to be able to zero the scale for cutting a specific thickness board. Its fun to see similarities and differences between other homemade mills.
Thanks. That's a good idea for the scale. We look at other setups to see what works and doesn't. There are a lot of creative people out there.
@@redstemorchard For sure I built my mill having never seen on in real life just by watching videos on youtube. I have a bunch of videos on my channel about my mill check it out for possible inspiration.
@@thedelcodave Will do.👍
this is a very nice home built mill I'm building one very similar and thanks for sharing your build.
Thank you. Pop gets all the credit. If you have questions about anything feel free to ask. Glad to help.
Very clever system.
Nice! I’d love to see it in action.
Thanks, I have a video coming soon
I miss, how you put the heavy log on the Sawmill nice video with a lot of detail 👍👍
Thanks. We have rails that drop in between the sawmill and the stand the logs sit on.
th-cam.com/video/8FEb5mcN7KI/w-d-xo.html
You can see it in this video
Great job
Thank you.
That is a awesome build!!! I am planning on building a new one this year because the one I built isn't rigid and stiff when running but saws really well. I wasn't really sure if my mill would work but it does but needs improved. I have been studying Cooks sawmills for a while because they build good mills. Your Pops mill is really nice and a great build!!!! Really enjoy and appreciate both of you making the video and sharing your craftsmanship!!! Look forward to seeing more videos!!!!!
You bet. There are more upgrades and changes in the works to improve functionality.Thanks for commenting and good luck on your build.
You are a lucky man to have a pops that is smart enough to build a rig like this from scratch and it is way better than anything on the market for a who lot less $ .my dad was the same way build anything out of nothing.
Great job guys keep building.
Thank you. Pop is super smart and I'm glad to have him.
Just found your channel. Really nice Mill you built and the enclosure around it. Thanks for the videos !
Thanks. Pop wanted to have a cover over the sawmill before he finished it and moved it out of the garage, so we built an extension of the shed roof coming off of the shop. It worked out nice.
Brilliant
a lot of it is built like a cooks saw mill I think which are great
There are actually ideas from a couple of different manufacturers and individuals. Pop originally looked at buying a Cooks mill, as they are very well made, but..... Pop being Pop decided why not build one myself and incorporate the things I like into it.
Pretty decent piece of work.
Thank you.
BAD ASS your Dad is a BEAST
I know..... right. 😁
Thanks for solving a problem for me .I have built a five foot X 10 foot router sled for flattening slabs table tops and mantels . Originally it was a manual machine that is now powered by a wheel chair motor like the one you are using . Problem was the carriage racking on start and stop .Bingo dual drive and proximity switches for end of cut stopping . I am also in North Georgia (Rome) would love to visit and look at your mill .
Great sawmill build, a lot of great features....how big is your drive pulley.
Nice built🙂
Thank you.
That is one awesome build. Much respect.
Thanks, I will share the compliment with Pop. I do believe there are going to be some upgrades coming soon😉
This is awesome! Great job!!! Do you happen to sell plans to make this sawmill!
We do not unfortunately. Sorry.
Good job 👏
Thanks
Thanks for the thorough overview. Very well thought out and built machine. Was your father an engineer or a technician for a machine tool company? This sawmill is truly on another level.
Good, solid design. I've been building one too for a while and got a few ideas from this video to help me. Mine is about a foot wider which I'm sure is a mistake somehow, but it is what it is so I hope it works.
Cool man. Stick with it. Nothing wrong with a wider mill. More room to upgrade later.👍
Very nice build! One of the better ones on TH-cam. Can you tell me where you bought your band wheels from? What diameter? 19 inch? thank you.
Thanks. Surplus center. H bush, 18.75" single groove pulley. Part# 1-bkh190 the H Bush is determined by the shaft diameter you are running. You'll have to pick up a B size belt for the pulley I believe it's a B56....... But don't quote me on that.
Wow what an impressive mill! Pop did an outstanding job building this. I built a homemade sawmill about 3 years ago and had the exact same problem with the blade tracking from the adjustable blade pulley. I will try your solution using a bolt and torque wrench for tightening the blade. repeatability is what I need. also a quick question. How often do you have to re-tension the blade as the blade heats up while cutting? I also use soapy water for blade cooling
Can you tell me what layer did you use? And if it works good! Thanks love the engineering your Dad configured! Smart man!
When I built my own mills ..... I used the quarter inch to the full turn for raising and lowering. It surely does have advantages on the auto adjust and stops so that it will only drop as far as you want it to. The biggest advantage of it is when the blade clears the cut, you can just bump the blade up a bit so when dragging the saw back for the next cut, you don't drag the blade off of the saw by hitting the log. I ain't got too much of a vocabulary.... I'm seventy three now and wishing I was thirty seven. Depending on what I cut was why I always had the circular saw around to just make cants. I am still trying to remember how I made my tool for the auto adjust for lap siding. The lap siding will give you so much more out of a cant or whole tree for that matter. I experimented with doing a resaw for making lap siding and its hard to go from say six inch lap to twelve inch lap or any size that your going for. If I was standing in my shop again, I could make one pronto. Meaning one side of the lap is quarter inch and the other being a three quarter inch so that when you saw a one inch thick board, you had enough wood to get both boards the same and not lose it in saw curf. (advantages of a bandsaw mill) I was in northwest corner of washington state then. After I moved to alaska in 1970, I built a circle saw mill right away and must of cut two hundred cabins of lumber the first year. I couldn't cut enough to keep up with people moving in on the southwest islands (Prince of Wales) so when I got back down to washington state again in the late seventies, I bought a bunch of old saws that were used for sawing shakes for roofs. After fighting with other designs, decided the time had come to just build my own. I don't know how many I made but I know that there was not any two mills the same as I just would get ideas to try on the next one. I went to alaska to work as a mechanic but no job is just doing "that job only". I enjoyed working for the small companies the most as the smiles make all the difference. Guys who had braved winter months in a army tent now living in a cabin with a wood stove were some mighty happy campers.
Thank you for sharing. While the mill does operate fairly well, we are looking to redesign a few things to make it even better.
Ur dad is a genius....💖💝💝💖💖
I agree.
Absolutely love the design. Do u have pans and would you want to sell a copy.
Thanks
Consider putting a couple of shutoff switches at the ends to keep it from breaking the chain. Only shuts off in the original direction of travel. So you can still back it out.
We have considered that, it does have adjustable stops which are magnetic pickup, but only stops the carriage not shut everything down like an emergency stop from an overrun.
That is an interesting machine. I’m going through all your videos and they’re knowledgeable with vast information. Where are you and Pops home based out of like state ?
North Georgia
I would love to see the speed control electronics design since it is basically what I have planning for my mill build
I'll work on breaking that down in a video. I do believe Pop made a wiring diagram for it so I will get that together.
I too would like to see the electronic design. I am building a sawmill myself from a project mill that never got finished. I wish you had a blueprint for the sled as that is the weak part of my saw. Do you think you will ever put a set of plans together for the whole saw. I would be willing to pay for them and I am sure many others would too. Thx.
Great build… one question, the drive motor, is it ran on 12v, or 24v?… Thanks
It would have been nice to see and hear your mill run.
Oh that's coming in the next sawmill video. I didn't have a log ready due to weather, but that has changed😉
Nice work. I built a sawmill using mostly junk I found. it's nowhere as pretty and solid as yours but it does the job 😂
Id say it took at least 350 hours to build and I can tell yours would be WAY more. Yours is seriously nice and far less likely to kill you than mine 🤠
Great work! Serious talent and skill at work.
Thanks for the compliment. I admire anyone who does things themselves. 👍 Pop is pretty amazing at making things. We are working on upgrades to it now. I don't know that it will ever be totally finished. 😉
You wouldn’t happen to know the info on the scooter motor so I can get the same one? POP’s is a Valuable Resource in a World of Few. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🫡
Awesome build! Do you remember where your blade lube parts came from? I like how yours are on both sides of the blade.
Pop actually machined those out of nylon blocks and just used felt pads to apply lube. The brackets are all made by him.
Great job! I know you've been asked this question before, but do you have any plans?? I want to build one and would like some dimensions on the saw apparatus or the part that rolls on the rail. Thanks so much!
I do not. Pop didn't make any formal plans. The band wheels are 20" and the blade is an off the shelf 113"long Wood mizer brand. The guides will clear a 32"wide log. Hope that helps.
Are you using a two wire normally closed proximity sensor on the carriage stop or what are you using??
can you tell me how many fbm the blade must run to cut softwood and hardwood using the blades you showed. thanks. great looking machine
@@BobstuartChirrey We try to run it around 4,000 fpm regardless of species
Your guy's mill is quite a machine, looks well-built and some serious country engineering was put to use. I have a couple questions if you have a minute to answer.
Where did the blade wheels come from? They look like a large belt pulley. It's hard to tell or see in the video, but the blade wheels look like they have some sort of filler in the belt groove if they are that type of pulley.
What was the feet per minute you guys targeted the blade to run?
Very nice looking and well-built sawmill.
18.75" V belt pulleys from Surplus Center.Com. The belt that we use is a B56. With the belt it works out to almost 59" circumference. You have to use an H bushing for the diameter shaft you run. Our target speed is between 4,000-4500 fpm. That works out roughly to 3200-3600 engine rpm the way we have ours geared. Hope that helps.
@@redstemorchard So the blade runs on the b section pulley without any type of filler in the belt groove? The blade is wide enough to cover the groove up, yet the pulley can drive the blade as it is metal on metal. I have a vertical metal (or wood, determined by blade being used) cutting band saw that has metal wheels, but there is a rubber ring around the wheels. And these wheels are metal and flat all the way across the face where the rubber goes. Maybe I'm not asking correctly, and this could help. If you were between the blade wheels looking at either wheel, you will see an open belt groove. There are others built in such a way that the drive belt drives the blade with the belt from the engine. Thanks for your help.
@@wadehearn6230 there is a belt on each pulley filling the groove. The B56 Belt is the size that fits the groove and stands proud. The blade rides on the belt not the pulley. No steel on steel contact. If that makes sense.
DUDEZILLA!!!!! Make it a drinking game... You have to drink everytime you say 'ALRIGHT'!!! Everyone will be plastered before they know it!!!!!
Wouldn't take long! I don't even realize it until after I go back and edit. I say it a lot. Got to work on that😎
Great video!!! What length blade are you using? I want to use a common length blade on my build. Thank you.
158" long Woodmizer blade. It's a standard length. Hope that helps!
I wish your dad could build me one he’s amazing
Nice video, I built my mill also, was wondering where you got the weatherproof control box. As I only have an ammo can with my controls in it. I am working on getting cameras to do my own videos, will hopefully be uploading them pretty soon. Thanks
Super cool. Pop said he salvaged the control box off of a piece of equipment years ago and just repurposed it. Might try an equipment salvage yard if there is one near you.
How does your Chain drive work, Chain on each side, fwd and Reverse, does the chains come up both sides to a sprocket, I started building a mill last year, Got real sick, almost wasn't here any more, at 65 and still building things like this, with know help. Thanks for any help you can give
Very nice Job. Any build plans available?
Pop did most of it in his head. He does have a few sketches, and a wiring diagram for the electrical.
Great design! You dad knows his sht!
What kind of proximity sensor are you using on the carriage stop????
MPJA.com
Proximity sensor
Part # 30306hd
👍👍
Thanks.
Very nice build, how much time did it take.
Pop said about 9 months in total, but he didn't work on it full time.
What's the model number for the hoveround gearmotor you used for the travel? Awesome build by the way. Look forward to more videos. I am in the process of building one 52" wide bed x 24ft long with tandem axles. I am finally at the stage of doing something for the travel and for lifting the head.
Pop said they didn't have part numbers, but he got them on eBay(advertised for electric chair/scooter) , and also Surpluscenter.com carries motors just like them(power chair) the sell left and right hand drive. He paid $100 a pc. for them. They may come with a metric shaft. We have three of them and two of them are spur gears and the one on the mill is a worm drive with neutral lever to disengage the gears. I recommend the later for a drive setup. Hope this helps. Congrats on your build! 👍
The reason you put the small in of the log facing the head is because limbs grow up hill and it keeps the blade from trying to slide over the limb causing wavy cuts.
Thanks. Didn't think of that before. Always tried to lead with the small end, easier to see how much clean wood could be cut. Of course with the laser on the machine, it's kind of a moot point other than your idea. I'll pay attention to that next log.
@@redstemorchard A circular mill cuts down on a knot and has a lot of mass but a band mill has to cut through the knot and will try to deflect the blade so its better to have the knot facing the blade.
Where do you buy that laser that is a neat feature.
Pop bought the laser on Ebay. There is a company called Apinex that sells them. It's cheaper on eBay though. Search. "line laser module".
@@redstemorchard awesome tell pop I say thanks for the info.
@@thedelcodave You bet. He looked it up to make sure. His came as a set. He said your welcome
@@redstemorchard I found them and bookmarked it for now. My mill lives outside once it gets a permanent home and under cover I would like to add more electronics. Keeping it simple for now.
@@thedelcodave Cool, simple definitely works. Sometimes that means less problems 😉
Hello my friend from where I can buy the tork
I'm not sure what you mean?
Is there anything you guys would do different or have done to improve it in anyway?
When are we going to see it running??
I have an upcoming video on making rough sawn for my porch. Also you can check out this other video th-cam.com/video/8FEb5mcN7KI/w-d-xo.html
From where can I buy the motor wich Engadget forward and back
Surplus Center sells those motors. Check out their website.
How about a tooth count on the drive wheels?
A well engineered saw!
I'm very interested in making one....Thanks.
There is a 24 tooth sprocket on the drive motor which pulls a 48 tooth sprocket on the drive shaft which has a 12 tooth sprocket on each end as the final drive which is what actually pulls the carriage along. We are however about to speed up the drive, since we can max out the forward speed and still need more when cutting through smaller cants and most pine.
@@redstemorchard Thank you!
How about sawdust getting into the drive chain
So far that hasn't been a problem. We do have an airline run which we periodically blow everything off. The drive chain stays clear for the most part though.
😁👍
Thanks
Your dad must be an engineer
My dad went to school for electronics way back in the day, and everything else is self taught. He's a very intelligent person.
Not lazy but used to. Inch and mm are really completely different ways of measuring and counting, right? I'm used to mm and to me inches and feet are almost like the Greek language.
Nice movie, thanks a lot.
Great point!
So many hp for 32 inch?why didnt go wider
25hp, but Pop found a deal on the 27hp Kohler. Trees in our area don't typically get much over that diameter, so Pop figured it would be enough. Also, it should be able to cut a larger diameter log with some well thought out planning and cutting.
How much money did you spend on it without engine and hands? (short quick material breakdown). And pieces short-quick specs..
I don't have a material list breakdown unfortunately I wasn't around for a lot of the build. Pop said he spent around $2,500 in steel alone.... But that was before inflation got bad. Total spent was around $8500 or so. I wanna say the motor cost $2300 pre inflation. Some of the parts he already had, so I can't give a more accurate cost. Sorry I hope this helps in some way.
Wooow . That’s f had the money I’d pay u to build me one
There y. You could build a much simpler capable mill for less money.
25mm to the inch roughly
I just stumbled across your video. Great mill you have there. We built a mill and so many similarities. Funny to see on others also. Great job. If you have a second look at our video too. Thanks for the video. Awesome!
You bet, I certainly will.
@@redstemorchard thanks. Tell your dad he did an amazing job.
@@PaulWhitedWoodStoneIron I will pass that along. 👍
Dude you need to just be the cameraman and let your Dad do the talking.
That's an idea, unfortunately Pop doesn't speak loud and he's not to keen on talking to the camera. It would be easier though.
Lazer ! Not layer sorry
Great work checkout Mike Festiva - (823) Homemade sawmill tips on how to building one - TH-cam Very good height adjustment system
Thanks, will do. We have ordered parts to upgrade the blade height adjustment, going for automation. 😎
I love tuning in. You could get more fans with Promo-SM!!
Thanks.