Beautiful Yamaha CA-2010 Integrated Amplifier Repair & Restoration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ธ.ค. 2018
- Following on from the stunning Sony PS-8750, this Yamaha CA-2010 must be one of the most beautiful integrated amplifiers ever made. Come with me as I repair and restore this beast.
For the full rundown and detailed article, visit my website:
liquidaudio.com.au/yamaha-ca-2...
Liquid Audio is a specialist hi-fi equipment repairer based in Perth, Western Australia. To book your hi-fi equipment for some TLC or to check out all the latest hi-fi service, repair and restoration content, visit:
► Website: liquidaudio.com.au
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Visit our contact page for service, repair and restoration enquiries:
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CA-2010 is the best amp I've ever heard. My son and I are both lucky to each have one of our own.
Back in the day when the average stereo system was a receiver, a set of speakers and a turntable, stuff like this was what we dreamed of owning. Most folks I knew could only afford lower end stuff from Akai, Kenwood, Pioneer, blah, blah……..they all made a complete line from inexpensive receivers with 25 watts to top of the line battleships like this. Thing was, even the lower end stuff looked good……they all kind of looked the same, truth be told. They’re still a great deal for those willing to look around for decent ones. It brings back a lot of memories.
Wow a really thorough and impressive restoration. You are a true professional!! I’m an audiophile in Canada who collects vintage gear and I wish that you were closer to me because I would love to have my gear rejuvenated by your skilled hands !
Tell me about it. I am in Australia and he is still too far away
I had 1 of these back in 1977. It was part of my first good stereo system.
Happy New Year Liquid Audio! Thanks for your service and repairs in the past! Great workmanship -fantastic service !
Thanks! Not sure what work I did for you you but thanks for the kind words!
About two years ago @@LiquidAudio bringing my JVC Quartz Lock QL F4 back to life! thank you L Audio
You are very welcome, don't hesitate to let me know if there is anything else I can assist with.
I still use a Yamaha CA-710 amp. Have been since 1979!! Upgraded speakers and turntable but the Amp Remains The Same :)
Incredible solder work fixing that board, I thought for sure it was trash. Like your much faster pace compared to others, addicted to late 70's stereo equipment.
Great work on the Yamaha amplifier. Yes there are very well made amplifiers of this error. I have just repaired my own perreaux 9000b power amplifier ( i have 2 ) , 500 watts a side into 8 ohms and a DC rail voltage of + and - 110 volts, DC coupled. Not a cheap fix and getting all of the mosfets was a bit of a challenge. Fan forced cooling as well .These things were hand made in New Zealand . But once again great work.
Definitely one piece of vintage audio equipment I’d love to own, very high quality for its time. The today’s equivalent Yamaha amplifier, the A-S1100 is another beautiful piece of audio gear, which I’m aiming to own one day. Love the classic needle VU meters.
Hi Ben, yes lovely pieces indeed. If you have a chance to read my article linked in the description, you'll find I've compared this beautiful CA-2010 with modern amplifiers. In fact, the AS-1100 isn't in the running next to the 2010. The CA-2010 compares best with the AS-3000 in terms of performance and the AS-2100 is also a better comparison, though it has worse technical specifications. This is surprising to many folks who imagine modern gear must be better, but it's often the other way around. All the more reason to grab one of these or one of the many other amazing pieces of vintage hi-fi equipment that people are rediscovering.
Liquid Audio awesome, I’ll have to check it out. I know some guy in the US has done a similar comparison too.
Such a pretty piece of gear, with lovely specs.
Really enjoy your videos since discovering your channel a week or so ago. Your clear commentary is a welcome change from the usual (including my own in my videos). Thanks. Have subscribed and look forward to more.
Very kind of you, thanks! I'll check out your channel too, always interested to find good new electronics channels. Check out my website for the really in-depth articles - liquidaudio.com.au
Revisit 😆 I got me an CA-810 pics uploaded . You SAVED THIS AMP !
Thanks again for thr video great job
In response to a comment by John Darko (asking about recent amplifiers sporting the apparently back in vogue VU meters) I was drawn to reminiscing about the Yamaha CA-2010 I bought new back in the late 70’s - which, in turn, brought me to your channel. Not, perhaps, particularly unusual insofar as I can imagine Yamaha selling quite a few of them. What caught my eye though was your comment about your previous video concerning the overhaul/repair of a Sony PS-8750 turntable. This was the very combination I used: A Sony PS-8750 turntable, A Yamaha CA-2010 integrated amplifier and a pair of KLH loudspeakers (the model number of which now escapes me). My reason for buying the amp, other than its stunning looks, was the facility to switch between MM and MC phono inputs. I chose MC and initially used an Ortofon MC20, though I later switched to the very smooth Lentek Entre 1. Lentek, as you’ll likely be aware was a British loudspeaker manufacturer, though one keen to expand operations by diversifying into other areas - distributing the Entre 1 and later developing their battleship build integrated amplifier (which I later sold the Yamaha to buy). What some may not be aware of though is that the Lentek integrated was designed by Philip Swift and Derek Scotland, who later went on to form Audiolab - their first offering, the 8000A integrated (which I see you’ve also had a dabble with) effectively being a pared down version of the Lentek. Sorry for the ramble, but in these trying times it’s good to reminisce.
Hi David, please don't apologise for a really useful and informative ramble like this one, thanks for commenting!
Mike , I have that amp, and the look is so gorgeous !!!
Great work. I prefer to use silver solder to fix broken boards as I feel it's a bit stronger than regular solder. But I noticed you used super glue to reinforce it. I'll try that with the cracked boards I have.
Nice work. If you were on the other side of OZ I would get you to go over my vintage Onkyo Amp.
Quality review - well explained - super interesting watch - thanks. Would be interested to know your view on CA510 NS Series
Super video.
Re the cracked PCB, I would have used an epoxy adhesive made less viscous with warm air (a hairdryer?) to bond the board and a single strand of 22 SWG wire across each cracked copper trace. Keep up the good work.
Great video really enjoyed it. I have a phono switch not lined up with the markings on the same amplifier.
Could you please give me some info as to what locking screw type and size, appreciate your advice, thanks.
Just got a nice one of these off Craigslist for 110. It's working real good for the moment after some good cleaning. I was thinking about replacing meter bulbs with blue leads. Is that a fairly easy job? Where's a good place to buy them? Thanks!
Very impressive! You said you put the pcb through a wash. Could you explain or do a video on your wash process? Thank you!
Thank you! I get asked this question a lot. I have to be careful because there are legal considerations around me giving advice about cleaning mains powered electronics. The detailed answer would need several pages worth of notes and explanations due to variables in terms of boards, components etc, plus you need access to a drying oven. Let me consider how best to address this for a future video or article.
@@LiquidAudio Well I definitely wont sue you, so it should be fine to tell us. Just kidding I understand. Thanks for you video. Very informative.
Hola!! Sorprendente restauración!! Estoy viendo de comprar este amplificador , actualmente tengo un CA 810! Me recomiendas este Yamaha o alguno mejor de otra marca ?
Just a note regarding the final 0.002% distortion. I can see on the video (about 22 minutes in) that the Tektronix AA501 distortion analyzer has the "A" weighting filter selected (button pressed in). This is a bit of a trap/gotcha with the AA501 as the filter selection affects all modes i.e. Level, THD+N & IMD (when it should only be applied to noise measurements). If the test frequency is 20KHz, this filter will attenuate the harmonics at 40KHz (2nd), 60KHz (3rd) etc. The displayed distortion on AA501 will be much lower (by 20dB or more) than the actual distortion (plus noise) e.g. it's more likely to be around 0.02% or worse. The best filter to remove out of band noise but retain the harmonics (up to the 4th) for a 20KHz test frequency would have been the 80KHz filter.
I sold mine ~1998. It's held it's value with inflation as a used unit but hasn't gone up. I loved it but wouldn't ever use it unless I needed a second system. 120 watts is way conservative, it's more like 150. Currently running a 2001 Yamaha RX-V1. That thing can cool your beers whereas the CA2010 could cook you eggs. I do miss those extra 40 watts/channel tho.
Brilliant!
I remember in the late seventies and early eighties when you walked into a home and saw a stereo like this you just stopped and went WOW. A setup like this cost as much as a nice two year old car. Don't think we will ever have companies making this stuff again.
boulder89984 you need to watch some of the audiophilliac Steve Guttonbergs TH-cam videos. In those videos he present complete audio systems from just $ 1000 all the way up. And these are good systems. Gone maybe the walnut veneer casing but the electronics are certainly much more advanced then that old Yamaha.
Good explanation
Complimenti.
The big blue caps on the power supply board are "El Cheapo" and one failed on my CA-1010. (open circuit). The hum was quite noticeable. Good that you replaced the others, they affect all kinds of stuff. Protection circuit time constant, sharp cut-off at power down, etc.
Hi, thanks for commenting, but no this is not correct, quite the opposite in fact. There are many myths and misunderstandings about capacitor performance. The light blue caps are actually very good Nichicon parts, used in good consumer gear and even in the most expensive test and measurement equipment like my Tektronix lab equipment where reliability was critical. Capacitors in this series generally last a very long time, despite their 85 degree rating, longer than many others. The particular parts you are referring to measured better than premium new parts. Doesn't mean they can't fail of course, but capacitor replacement should be informed by knowledge, experience and of course testing!
@@LiquidAudio Not talking caps generally. The large light blue colored caps are crap. One failed in my CA-1010. I'm a 40 year audio tech myself and I'm not steering you wrong on this. A lot of the other smaller caps aren't so great either. I'm not a "re-cap" guy but it doesn't hurt on a 40 year old piece. I replaced about 40 caps on my CA-1010, not because I like to automatically re-cap, but because I had THREE cap-related failures within about a fifteen month time frame. It's tempting to skip the large ones if you don't have them in stock - I had to wait on mine. They're 80v rated if I recall and I don't generally stock that high a voltage rating for 220 and 330uF.
I get where you are coming from, but based on my experience and for the reasons I explained, you are wrong about the light blue Nichicon caps. That's not to say your parts didn't need changing, but It's factually incorrect to describe that series as crap. They are actually very good parts and usually measure superbly, so it's important to correct this misinformation. I have these parts in stock, I have to given my business repairing gear like this, but again, these two tested better than premium new parts, so we will have to disagree on this one! Anyway, you'll find lots of technical information and articles at my website, based on the specialist hi-fi repair work I do. I'll probably end the chat here, but thanks again for stopping by and happy New Year!
@@LiquidAudio I wasn't trying to be argumentative. But I stand by what I said.
No problem at all. There is much misinformation out there and I try to correct it with factual, evidence-based responses where I can. Anyway, here's to 2019!
I’m not much into Japanese electronics but more into British and USA. I have a 1984 mission electronics Cyrus one integrated amp. What I’m experiencing is intermittent audio breakup in the left channel.
Very Good, Would you know where I can get a Schematic or service manual for a NEC AV-350E?
Thanks
I would try NEC Japan for this.
beautiful restoration
,
I also made one on my channel you tube
in slide show 7 step my CA2010, very hard work
......
but the work was deserved after 30 years
Hi and thank you! Great to see you have worked on one too, lovely amplifier and very much worth spending the time and money to restore.
I have A-1060 and it is causing me problems since I have got it. It sounds beautiful when it works though
Hi yer lovely video I was surprised you by passed the pre main board would it be hard to design a replacement board and remount the components ?? 👍👍
Hi, thanks for your question, though it's not making sense to me unfortunately. I didn't bypass anything here so perhaps you can clarify your question and I'd be glad to answer it.
@@LiquidAudio hi yer sorry for the confusion during the video I think you said you where un happy with the pre-main circuit board you mentioned that some of the phono sockets and or the plastic holders where cracked/damaged ?? My question was would of it been possible to make either a new circuit board and transfer the components to a new circuit board or would this been 2 difficult the reason is Iam working on a Yamaha CX-1000 around the switch power outlet board by the back power inlet socket which I changed to a Roxburgh filtered EMI/RFI filtered socket Iam always cautious about when working on old vintage hifi about flexing or damaging the connectors on the circuit boards being an electrical engineer most of my life re-wiring houses my soldering can at times be a bit heavy handed at times 2nd question do you work on DAT players I acquired a Victor XD-Z700 but Iam struggling to get the manual the JVC XD-Z707 was the model sold in Europe but I cant find any manual for either machine would you know of anyone who might have a copy, great vids thanks in advance Simon
OK, thanks for clarifying. Yes, a new board could be made or the whole element can simply be removed. Much depends on the unit in question, damage, fault, customer requirements etc. I suggest the usual online and distributor sources for manuals, DAT gear is something I avoid so I don't keep any DAT manuals, sorry I cannot help with that!
Отличный усилитель!👍
Hi, I humbly request some help. I have just acquired a CA-2010 and have followed you video as to what to do (replacing capactitors etc.). I also live in Australia but the unit I have does not have those NEC chips mounted on the heatsink beside the main transistors, rather they are mounted on the PCB. Do you think this is a modification to the original design? Should I also consider moving these chips to the heatsink with the main transistors? Thanks, really appreciate the video.
Hi Jono, glad you enjoyed this one. I can't say without seeing her and looking at various indicators close-up. If you live locally you can get in touch and bring her in. If not you can visit my contact page and submit a request for technical assistance there.
You keep referencing cleaning - what are you using or doing to clean the boards?
Hi! Thanks for posting this. I have this the Japanese version of this amp. The power switch/knob got bent and half broken during shipping to me. I need to take the face plate off to get to the switch/knob to fix it but am not sure how. To get all the obstructive knobs off the face plate, do I just need to pull them off the shafts? I've tried but they're really tight so I'm afraid that I might break something if I pull too hard. The volume knob has the balance ring behind it. Do I also just pull them all out one by one? Please help and show me how! Thanks!
Hi, be careful and don't force anything. Most knobs are held on by grub screws so you need the correct tools, usually Allen types for these. There are extenders for many of the controls and these must be released at the connector, again via grub screws. It's tricky though without the unit in front of me. I suggest getting a specialist to look at an amp like this though, there are many things that need special attention by this age and experience really helps!
@@LiquidAudio Thank you very much for your advise!
Hi there!
I don't know how i found your website, but i was extremely lucky. I own a
Yamaha CA 2010 and i just lead to my trusted hi-fi shop for a deep cleaning
session after 15 years and we are a lil bit in difficult.
We can not find a proper *electrolytic and bi-polar capacitors*. I found
something used on ebay but it seems not right for my model.
Can you give me some suggestions? Anything would be super helpful.
Thank You very much from Italy.
Riccardo
Hi Riccardo, you need to purchase premium parts for an amplifier like this. I suggest the standard commercial vendors such as Mouser, DigiKey, Farnell etc. These vendors are the only way to ensure you are getting quality, genuine parts at sensible prices.
I got a Yamaha CA-510 on my 15th birthday in 1978.
Great job me and a friend just went threw my Onkyo integra M-504 and now it sounds amazing , My friend is my working partner at Montaplast we work in the maintence dept but he use to be manger of emotivas repair department i was getting to nervous have you ever worked on a M504 ? And what do you use to clean internal boards ?
Hi, yes I have owned and worked on an M-504. I use various cleaning processes, depending on the consition of the boards and what contaminants are present. It's a bit involved to get into here, but cleaning excess flux is good and a gentle water-based washing process is helful if boards are excessively dirty and if you have access to a low temperature drying oven. This is unlikely to be needed with something like the M-504. High pressure air is great if the contaminants are mostly dust-based.
@@LiquidAudio yeah we used compressed air and Qtips about 300of them was just dust build up itlooks amazingly clean now after about 2o hours and alot of patients sounds amazing i have a review video uploaded about it
@@LiquidAudio I really like the sound signature of the M504 with my Pioneer elite pre amp has really good synergy. Compared to the P 304 onkyo pre i think the pre needs some love put into it pretty nice nichicon caps
I just recently acquired a CA 2010 that the previous customer had left at a house and the new customer did not want the unit. I took it home and I barely hear any sound coming out of the main amp but if I switch it to preamp out and hook up an external amp I can hear audio just fine do you have a parts list of all the capacitors that need to be replaced so I can purchase them before recapping the amp
Hi Larry, no I don't use or supply parts lists. My advice is to troubleshoot and resolve the issue before even thinking about recapping.
I have 2 to restore for a customer A1 the Yamaha are top amps.
How to clean up sticky knobs and switches if not using contact cleaner?
Careful service of switches and controls is necessary in most cases. Lab-grade contact cleaners are a part of that. Ideally, I suggest taking her to a good technician for service. He or she will know what to do, there's less risk of damage and any adjustments and parts replacements can be done then also. The Cyrus one has semi-fixed bias from memory and the last one I worked on needed some capacitor replacements as part of a thorough service.
Dear sir
I recently owned Yamaha C4 preamp
Can you pls guide that should I recap only power supply electrolatic capacitor or I have to change all the caps in preamp as its working fine
Pls guide me
Hi Gurmeet, I suggest you don't do anything other than take it to a specialist familiar with this model. It will need a range of maintenance I can't get into here, but beyond replacing capacitors.
Hi
I have a yamaha ca 2000 amp and I have a problem with the right channel. You can hear some overvoltages on the right channel. Any idea where this comes from? I will be grateful for your response?
Hi Greg, testing and measurement are always the next steps when anything strange starts happening with an amplifier. Speculation is generally not helpful, so I strongly suggest taking her to an expert for assessment. These are wonderful amplifiers and they need the right care and attention. They also need routine maintenance at this age and they've often not received it in my experience.
Such a MACHINE :-)
Can u give me some advise please I’ve got a technics su v303 amp and it is stuck in stand by and want come on I haven’t got the remote for it as I brought it of eBay last year and at the moment I can’t use any help would be great regards den .i live in France
Hi Denis, very difficult giving remote advice on electronics faults unfortunately. The best advice I can give is to take her to an expert who will be able to sort it out for you, hopefully you have someone nearby you can take her to!
What wax are you using for the cabinet? cheers
Hi, I use a couple of different waxes but mostly a furniture grade Australian beeswax for this sort of job. I can't recall if I mentioned this in the video or not but it will be in the linked article on my site, link in the description!
Most interesting.
Hi! I have an issue with a similar amp, my Yamaha CA 810, please spare a minute if you could give me an advice. Here it is: I hear radio interferences in both speakers, the sound is almost imperceptible but mostly at late hours when the room is very silent it gets annoying. Radio sound is equal in level on both channels and it is not influenced by the master volume level. It stops only when no RCA sources are connected to the back inputs (any input!). I have to say that I use very good interconnect shielded cables, that I just bought in order to clear this lead, so I presume that the issue comes from somewhere in the machine. Other than that, the sound is very warm and natural, I enjoy listening analog tapes, vinyl and CDs. Thank you!
Hi Adrian, there are various possible causes for this type of thing but check any cables for broken shields or lifted grounds as RF signals usually get in this way. You may not live in Perth but if you do, you are welcome to bring her in for testing and diagnosis.
Thanks for your reply! Unfortunately I am based very far from Perth - in Europe - altough I did have some connection in Perth, to a mining engineering company that I used to work for, about twenty years ago (Lycopodium Pty)... :) I was thinking to open the amp and start looking for a broken shield in the block of RCA inputs. That could be the start point of RF, maybe it is something wrong in the whole block, as of any RCA hole I connect to, it starts happening. I am not an electronist, though, so I might ask specialized help in my area, but for the moment I live with it. Cheers, mate!
Not a problem and most importantly, don't use it whilst this is occurring, RF getting in this way can cause oscillation depending on the amplifier design and you really don't want that happening, trust me!
Nice ...
apparently there was lots of contact cleaner and residue - (wish you would have shown how you cleaned such a busy system)
Hi There
Greeting from Poland. I just aquired CA1010 Unfortunaetly someone has been on tha power supply board before me and fitted some cheap caps . What brand are these yellow and Orange bipolar caps ? Really like the look of them . What series of other Panasonics did you use ?
I would like to fit better quality parts than Sinecon that is there now . I think She deserves it. Regards
Hi Adam, most often I use Nichicon Fine Gold and MUSE bipolar, Panasonic FC and FM and Nippon ChemiCon KZE. There are others and it varies according to budget, customer request etc.
Liquid Audio Hi Sir Thank you for reply . Still refurbing this thing , it was so dirty but its start to look a lot better. Just a qucik question if you dont mind helping out . I measure fes of this black nippon chemi con and almost all read higher than rated . There is one 3.3 uf that read nearly 5uf. Is that Ok or should they be replaced ?
Regards
That is a beautiful amplifier!
Hi, I just came across your video and I am wondering if you might know what the problem with my 1010 could be.
I was playing music when I could hear a popping sound inside the amp. The music went silent immediately.
Just seconds before the popping-sound, the left channel started to hum.
I can still switch the amp on and off, the meter lights are on, the main fuse (at the back) is intact.
Only when turning the volume up to level 5 (12 o'clock, actually very loud and never used by me before) I can hear the music softly playing but in an extremely distorted way.
Do you have any idea what the reason for this could be, hence, which part exactly did pop and what could have caused it (I am using 6 Ohm speakers, the volume was very moderately set, Voltage is set to 230 V for Germany). Best wishes from Berlin.
Hi Timo, I'd love to help but questions like this are lot like "my car won't start, what's wrong with it?" if you get me. There are just so many variables, so many unknowns that remote diagnosis is impossible. Hands-on though it will be simple to resole for someone with the right skill-set. I suggest you find a really good local technician to have a look at her for you.
@@LiquidAudio Thank you and totally get what you say.
I actually found 4 popped fuses, located at the bottom of the amp (opened it upside down). They seem to be part of the connection between pre- and main amp.
All 4 blown.
I will replace them and see if the problem is solved. Maybe the amp had overheated?
Anyway, have a nice weekend.
Timo
What do you use or how do you “wash” the boards? Thanks.
Hi Mike, thanks for your question. It's a process I've developed that I keep somewhat in-house for several reasons. It involves water in most cases so extreme care is needed and most folks should not be doing it. Plus there are other considerations based on parts and type of contamination, so a detailed explanation wouldn't be possible here.
Fair enough. I just acquire a lot of old audio equipment and test gear that I like to get working and restore. Always looking for better ways to clean decades of dirt, dust and grime off.
Absolutely understood, I suggest you search out the old documents from Tektronix and HP about cleaning test and measurement equipment. I developed my process from these and changed things as needed. There are some definite ways to go wrong though, like unsealed relays, so just be careful. The trick with cleaning is to use the right solvent.
Awesome content. I recently repaired a CA 610. Wondered in the process about what to use for cleaning the boards. You mentioned isopropyl i guess, but on the picture it looks like soap. Could you recommend a solution? I cant ship it in cause im from germany ;)
Hi and thanks for your comment! I get asked this often, but the answer is beyond the scope of a short reply here and there are many considerations. Because much of my process is water-based and requires drying equipment, it's not suitable for many end-users. For most situations, I suggest hand cleaning with cotton buds and iso. It's a little tedious but works well.
Need to make a correction on the power ratings for Class 'A' which is actually much less than 'A/B' - specs are 30W Class A , @ 8ohms and 120W Class 'A/B' @ 8ohms.
Thanks for the numbers Sky Puppy, I did mention the 120 Watt class-A/B output early in the vid and highlighted the greatly reduced class-A power output. Everything is unscripted though, so my delivery can be a little random at times!
👍👍👍
1:20 - what do you recommend as a 'pot' cleaner?... Not Servisol then?
⁉⁉⁉⁉
I generally use a multi-stage a regimen I've developed. DeoxIt is quite good, I don't use it much these days but as a quick assistant, it's good stuff.
What type thermal pads do you use?
In most cases I use a premium silicone thermal pad. Good commercial vendors have these in bulk.
@@LiquidAudio what I meant was, what's the exact part number. I have a stock of Bergquist insulators that look just like yours, the thermal conductivity is only .9 on mine and I wondered if that is enough... I've heard that only Bergquist K-10 is good enough to replace mica insulators but it's expensive
@@Foozlebop Hi Evan, can't give you a part number right now (I'm out) but yes Bergquist K-10 are excellent. That being said, there's a healthy amount of BS written about silpads vs mica. How thick is the mica? How old is the grease? What is the device Pd under normal operation? There are so many considerations that nobody can correctly state that only K-10 is good enough for example. Mica itself has an outrageously poor thermal resistance, so thin mica and good, fresh paste are critical if going down that route. Good silpads are almost always better than old, thick or delaminated mica and dried up thermal paste. You are right to ask the question in relation to a high Iq amplifier though. I can recommend K-10. Here's a good resource: www.farnell.com/datasheets/99609.pdf
@@LiquidAudio thank you for the elaboration. the person who says only K-10 is as good as mica and paste is Echowars from Audiokarma... his expertise and reputation is beyond reproach, so I will have to side with him on this matter, though you raise good points.
Do you have a bird? I keep hearing one on your video.
No but there are lots of birds where I live, I'm near beautiful bush and parklands and the birds are obviously making their way into my videos!
It would be cooler if you showed the work.
hey where's the sound test?
Hehe... Yeah that's what I wanted to know too, I'm guessing it didn't actually work. 🤣
1980年代!日本山葉牌？調諧器、擴大機!
Yeah I'm going to Yamaha has never been known her being helpful to the service industry anytime you have to service one of those units it's a pain in the butt when you look at a schematic and then you look at the board cuz half the time the schematic doesn't have everything the board you look at the board and this Parts on the board that aren't even on the schematic or this Parts on the schematic that aren't on the board Yamaha was really screwy about that especially on those units made back in the 70s
no running amp ??? no sounds of it ??
anti climax.
That is a very good performer amp. I thought I just scored a sought after amp the Sanyo JA V7-150 but after replacing a fuse and puting it all together, question the reviews and credit given the cheaply made plastic piece of crap. : ( not so with anything made by yamaha.
That's why I won't buy old equipment.
Too much talk, no actual showing of procedures done.
Thanks for your positive comment Jesus! Could you point me to some of your videos? I'd like to assess your contributions to TH-cam.