Wrong tool, wrong height, wrong speed, not sitting on a solid surface, not bolted down, no tailstock used, and feeding backwards. This was like watching someone drive stick shift without ever having seen a car before. The fact that everything was so loose on the lathe makes me think this thing was abused during shipping because that is not normal. Unless you had already ran it for a while not bolted down, vibrating everything loose.
I also guess that the wrong tool was not on center height either. Check this with a face cut (with the material sled back a lot please) and adjust accordingly. Before killing a machine on TH-cam get acquainted well first with the machine and the trade. Tip; HSS works great on brass and it's cheap and can be sharpened indefinite. Good luck with your journey and all the best, Job
Got mine just yesterday, very same model (MX-S716) First lathe experience in my life (I'm 66) although I like to fiddle with mechanics from time to time. So I spent half a day checking tutorials on YT, learned the basic controls, parts names and understood the weak spots of the machine, then spent half a day more adjusting play, tightening (or loosening in some cases) nuts and bolts and finishing with a good coat of lithium grease on slides, screw, gears, rack and pinion until all travels were smooth enough with the least possible amount of play. And then... time to make some shavings! Put a tool on, set the correct angle and height as seen in the tutorials, clamped on chuck a brass rod about the same size of that shown in the video, and.... got a mirror finish on first try, both shaft and face 😃 Then I stood for quite a while contemplating my debut feature, feeling its satisfying smoothness and pondering over the undeniable fact that you cannot expect to have such a complex tool working flawlessly right out of the box and that, especially when dealing with cheap chinese items, "no pain, no gain", but patience, curiosity and learning can prove rewarding in the end.
Someone does a lathe review. Same person also does a test-run with about 6 times diameter stickout and the cutting tool improperly shimmed. Lathe might be trash but at least try to handle it correctly.
Came here to say this. I have one of these cheap import lathes. Different brand but same thing under a different coat of paint. These can cut brass or aluminium easily when they're used properly and set up correctly. I've turned mild steel on mine, although it's tough and results aren't amazing. Could probably be improved though as I have seen people turn steel on these latches with success
When I learned machining basics, on of my teachers said, when you don´t know what you are doing, you need the best equipment, experienced guys can better handle less good equipment and make it work - this video clearly shows he was right.
When you dont know what your doing its hard to tell if you or the tool. These inexpensive lathes are a learning curve many dont have the patience for. Im no machinist but I bought a used lathe for $200 and Im about $800 into repairs/parts/tooling. Been a fun yet frustrating experience. Im a mechanic by trade and mechanical things interest me and fixing them as well. Sad part is people buying these $400-$1000 lathes most likely dont have resources to dump more money at them.
I have bought the exact same unit and had no problems. Out of the box! If you are going to set a tool you do it either on center height or below never above unless you are boring an inside diameter then the opposite is the case. This is extremely important as you want the cutting edge to make contact with the job and not just rub on a lower part. Being on center also makes sure it will cut the diameter you have applied to the hand wheel. I bought mine due to it having the largest bore through spindle that you can get in a mini lathe. It isn't a power house but with common sense it works just fine. If the unit isnt stopping the stop switch is wired incorrectly, it needs to stay on usually to remain open circuit so just use the E stop button as it will hold down the contact and make it go open circuit. If you must just use the stop button additional relays are needed in the control.
yea this guy set himself up for failure in a lot of cases. The screeching was because he was using it wrong. The thing being so loose does seem odd. Obviously it needs to be bolted on a workbench, but whoever assembled it did a shit job or this thing was shipped on a shaker table.
Did you not see your insert shatter and loose it's tip on your first pass? Apparently not because you continued to try and cut....backwards direction ....with a 1/4 tool in a 1/2 holder. Scary bad. I would suggest watching a vid or two from Open Source Machine Tools lathe vids before turning your lathe on again. Seriously.
Inexperience with one of these machines is truly asking for trouble. I too was suffering watching the tool height massively out and wrong feed direction omg....
I dont understand you guys complain about super cheap mini lathes. It has a reason why they are cheap. There are a lot of videos online saying that you have to improve them on your own. So did i. And i really have to say for that amount of money i’ve spent its a decent lathe.
@@jamesandrew3727I also bought a Micro Mark. They are adjusted properly and will perform right out of the box. You’re talking over double the money. I paid 650. For the Vevor, and about 1500. For the Micro Mark. I’m going to sell the.Vevor once I get done improving and adjusting it.
I assume you are a first time user and have understood by now what you did wrong? (center height, speed, feed direction, tooling, tailstock support). Poor lathe, poor ears, poor knowledge, poor review.. Although the play is quite large, it matters less than you think. Every lathe has play, and you just have to take that into account, regardless of the amount. Anyway, mini lathes as cheap as these need a lot of TLC but mostly will do the job afterwards. Yours is probably abused during shipping. Take some time to clean and adjust everything, and take more time to learn how to use a lathe.
I bought one of their 7x14 models from Amazon and it showed up at my place completely demolished. No exaggeration: it was totally busted up and missing all of the peripheral parts like gears, belts, tools, etc. The busted up wooden crate should have been a dead give-away that the contents of that crate were in bad shape, but they sent it anyway. I contacted Amazon about it, and they sent someone out to pick it up and take it back. Three days later a brand-new replacement was delivered. The wooden crate of the replacement lathe looked a bit more pristine, so I had high hopes that the previous mini lathe was just an unfortunate mistake. When I opened up the crate of the brand-new replacement mini lathe, I found that it too had sustained enough damage to render it non-functional without replacing several major components. It took a little over two weeks for Vevor to send out the replacement parts I needed to install before this "Brand-New" mini lathe would function. I finally got all of the replacement parts installed and ready for its' maiden run. It looked and ran perfectly for about five minutes, then I started hearing some rattling coming from under the gear cover. That rattling turned into a loud clunking sound, so I quickly turned off the machine. I found that one of the little brass studs that hold the smaller 20-teeth gear had sheared off right at its' base. I'm now waiting for the replacement brass stud to be shipped to me. In the meantime, I've been able to modify the studs on which the 20 and 25 teeth gears rotate on by fabricating some replacements out of tool steel. I've modified those studs so as to be able to use bearings in place of the metal-to-metal fit that caused the brass components to shear off at the slightest amount of heat and pressure. The only reason I kept the second lathe they sent out was because they gave me a huge discount if I kept it. I got it running really well now. Right now I'm waiting for some extra gears to show up so I can cut some specific thread. This mini lathe is capable to cutting a fairly large range of imperial threads but the gears that came with it are not the correct ones to cut the thread pitches I'm needing. You're right when you state, "Don't Buy" these Vevor lathes. They can be more trouble than they're worth.
After watching many reviews I put off buying a mini for over 12mths but finally got 1. It has loose joints all over but I hadn't touched a lathe in over 30yrs so expect to learn a lot along the way. Saw many of the same issues as you but the VS not stopping is a concern, hopefully it's just a grub screw in the knob that needs tightening after you adjust to the 0 position.
I bought this same lathe. Although it had a few issues, Vevor has been great with customer service. The only drawback is they were unable to supply some parts, which I had to purchase elsewhere. Vevor actually refunded me 300. For the inconvenience. They responded within 24 hours, every time I contacted them. You have to dial in these Chinese lathes, but after you go thru them, they are pretty good for the price.
My Vevor came without grub screws in the carriage slides. These allow you to tighten the mounting screws, and still maintain the adjustment. I ordered some from Little Machine Shop
I bought a second hand MX 600A that had everything done on it. I would say they are excellent value for the money. You have to remember that if you want perfection it comes at a very high price.
@@Mac-mu9cs No, I actually picked it up for £520 with extras. The lathe was less than twelve months old and like new. The guy was moving house and didn't have room for it.
@@geoffankrett7012 Nice, hard to compare one thats been worked over to OOTB. Im curious though how much money is spent up grading these and can you reach a level up and still be ahead on price point. I would love to see a head to head Get what you pay for review $500 , $1000, $1500 ect and can you reach that price point with less money modifying a less expensive unit? Im not so sure its possible. If I did not pick up my 1220 used for $200 I wouldn’t have been able to afford to fix it up a little. I can see why it’s very discouraging for people when they spend 6 to 800 bucks on a small leave and it doesn’t perform at all.
I got a PM190-V. Same size, same box, double the price. There are differences: I can change speeds electronically and via pulley changes. My lead spindle is dust covered and the bed is ground and hardened in Germany. It also never goes completely to zero. I also have another motor in it. I figured in the end you pay either for those features upfront or by time modifying. I recommend a quick change toolpost. Align tool heigt with center of tail stock. Engage tailstock and bolt it down. Otherwise I would expect all what you mentioned and would see that as normal on a lathe. There is always some play. Anyhow I hope it will work in the end for you.
I didn’t think Precision Mathew’s made this small of lathe. I know their smaller lathes are out of stock right now, but I’d like to have one. I believe they are much Heavier, which would give them much less flex.
1- zanim kupiłeś mogłeś zobaczyć inne filmy o tanich chińskich tokarka , jak pracują jak ustawić i z czym się trzeba mierzyć podczas pracy na niej. 2- z tego co rozumiem wypowiadasz się o niej krytycznie ale jednocześnie nie przygotowałeś jej do pracy i używasz jej jak byś pracował na tokarce po raz pierwszy - uważam że uczciwie było by sprostować ten film po nabraniu wiedzy Mam wiele filmów o przygotowaniu takich tokarek do pracy i jak na nich pracować podpatrz sobie ;) Fakt to nie tokarki przemysłowe ale i ich cena jest adekwatna do jakości i możliwości
I have the exact same lathe, first thing I did was bolt it down solidly checked the ways were level, the went through the whole lathe cleaning and adjusting, set up the tailstock on centre, used the correct sized tooling and shimmed to cut on centre line, and it has proved to be a good reliable lathe which i use nearly everyday on steel, brass and aluminium. Note always stop the lathe with the stop button and not the speed control, and always do your cuts towards the tailstock with minimal stick out of the workpiece, if it's a long bar use a live centre and if it really long a cats head support as well. One last thing don't cheap out on tooling decent tooling will last and give a good surface finish, also use the right tooling for the job dependant on the material and depth of cut. You can expect to spend twice the cost of the lathe on tooling which people tend to forget!
The turning spindle is most likely due to a bad calibrated resistor on the circuit board. (Think is is a resistor?). Basically, it is supposed to feed more power to the motor when under stress, keeping the rotations fairly equal. Regardless of the material or depth of cut you take. I have seen it quite a few times where it is set to high and makes the spindle rotate in the 0 position. The fix is rather easy..when you access the circuit board behind the control panel, you will find one or two resistors with a plastic cross-head screw. Since I have no clue of the controller board used here, and if there are two, I would go with the top one first (just because you have to start somewhere). Make a small marking on the plast screw head and the housing, then turn it a quarter turn anti-clock wise and try again. If you have the right one, the rotations should reduce or become zero. If it is the same and you have two, set it back to original and try the other one. Good luck and thanks for sharing. Gerby.
Welcome to the pain of small lathes. I started out on a 6" Atlas that the previous owners obviously abused and it took a long time to get it into shape. A few things I would recommend is don't have that much stick out without tail support, feed towards the head if you can and use HSS on brass. HSS shears or slices if you will, Carbide works in a different way unless you are using inserts designed for Aluminum which are sharp on the edges like using HSS. Make a shear blade out of HSS, this will give you some really nice finishes on projects. Even the cheap HSS that you get from China or India will do very nice work if you shape it correctly, I have used just about every name brand out there and the cheap stuff holds an edge just about as well if used properly. M2 HSS will work fine with about anything a mini lathe can do, there is no need to get a higher grade like M35 or M42 which is much harder to form.
Also when sharpening your HSS use a double sided 6" diamond honing stone for finishing it. When using a diamond stone don't put water on it as it will rust, wet the stone with Windex window cleaner (or a window cleaner like it) and it won't rust, I wet mine down while sharpening/finishing my HSS and this will float the HSS out of the diamond and not let it build up so you don't have to do as much cleaning to get it out of the hone.
I have the Vevor 9x32 lathe and I can not recommend them. The stuff you describe is pretty standard for all mini lathes, you have to completely (and I mean COMPLETELY) disassemble everything then clean, lube, reassemble, tighten and adjust everything to specification. You will find metal shavings and dust in critical bearings that are contaminated and must be cleaned if you want your lathe to last a few years. It is pretty much the way it is even for import lathes that cost 5 times as much and are much bigger. However the reason I can not recommend Vevor is because my lathe came with critical errors in the machining of the lathe bed that make it inaccurate. The flat ways on the bed top and bottom are not parallel and as such the cross slide carriage can never be adjusted correctly to traverse the length of the bed ways. It is either too tight or too loose in one spot or another because of this. Another major inaccuracy is that there is sag in the main bed in the middle. A precision straight edge placed along the bed shows significant gap in the middle (probably 20 thou). This is verifiable with numerous straight edges so it is definitely the lathe. Luckily this is fixable with a thick steel plate for a table top underneath which I already have and have bolted it to and shimmed it to near enough tolerance. The bed ways out of parallel is correctable with machining the bottom surface to bring it parallel and that is progressing. It could be thought of as a toss up between buying an old used higher quality lathe that will need wear issues corrected or a new one that will need assembly issues corrected. Both will be considerable work to get accurate machining with long term reliability.
@@rebelfabricationllc hm ok I cant find any pictures of it on google. Can you explain how it look ? is it one or more metal gears? would it be easy to upgrade with another motor?
have had one of these for five years and mine is belt drive, it has stood up well for a cheap lathe, haven't used it to cut threads yet, I would go for a good old Atlas or American lathe if I had it to do over, but at the time it was hard to find a small decent American made lathe, miss having my old war production lathe from the 40s
I had a VEVOR 8x14 for more than 2 years. I paid about us$600 and I received a machine that worth a lot more than the 600 that I paid. Of course, it is not a precision tool and not performs like a 3000 or 4000 dollars lathe. Mine had been a little abused during transportation, but nothing important besides the a little bit bend the lathe tray. Maybe the manufactured should improve the crating since the machine it is a little heavy to be by handled for one delivery Amazon guy and they just dropped and not carry with care. Before use the lathe needs to perform some adjustments and tuning. My had the gears misaligned and one gear had missing the key (or maybe I dropped and lost it since they very tiny) Most of the adjustment and tuning are very easy and common sense logic. My lathe had the same problem the one show in the video: did not stop with the knob at the “cero” position. I corrected this adjusting two tiny adjusting pots in the motor drive. I do not recommend to do this if you are not familiar to work with electronics and live wires. I turn wood, plastic, aluminum, brass without problem. Take me a lot to turn iron or steel since don’t have enough power. I don’t have the machine bolted down to the bench. The machine is heavy enough to remains in place during operations and allows me to move the lathe around to clean.
For those below with way more knowledge than i have, what do you recommend at roughly the same price point? Get an older Taige, Craftsmen etc and rebuild it?
I don’t know where you are located, but I’m fine tuning upgrading this same model. I will be selling it for much less than I paid two or so months ago. Im in the San Francisco Bay Area.
Oh dear, oh dear. But we all have to start somewhere. Try reading a few "how to's" before just diving in and condemning the machine. It didn't stand a chance with what you did. :-(
I've seen alot of these lathe videos and this seems to be very standard for a vevor lathe. It will take a bit of time and some modifications to get it working perfectly I think you may have been putting to much pressure on that tool when machining brass
The green button is the "turn it on -make the spindle turn" button. The speed control knob is just that! It makes it go slow or fast, it does NOT turn it on of off! Your tool wont cut because, as you said, it is too high! Any tool has to be shimmed to the center height if you want it to cut. The play in the gears and feed knobs is NORMAL! They can be adjusted but there will AWAYS be play! You are the guy who would buy a guitar and then do a review saying it was crap because it was not tuned "out of the box"! Lathes require setting up, just like guitars do. Tool height and speed matter. AND you can do pression work, even with "all that play" in the feed knobs! Take the time to learn how to drive a lathe before you post a crappy review!
Thanks! I know most of these Chinese made mini lathes need some tweaking, but out of the box, this one seems to be a piece of crap. I watched another video where someone applied like 15 - 20 modifications to bring this lathe up to snuff. After that is was a good machine. But I don't have time and patience or expertise to F*&^K around with a machine to get it where it's supposed to be, so I'll keep looking. I would pay an extra 300-400 Dollars to get one that was usable and precise out of the box.
$400 more most likely wont get you there. Same crap. Might have better looking handles and maybe correct size tool pist. I don’t think you’ll find anything that will be right out of the box ready at least in the under $2000 range
La altura del filo de la herramienta no es correcta, posiblemente las velocidad RPM , tampoco, engranes están mal alineados, algo está mal armado o es defecto de fabrica, hay que verificar también el tipo de herramienta. Saludos
small lathes are cheap for a reason, you haver ot tear them appart when you get the, clean and re-lube all. i even swapped out my headstock bearings to skf from the chepo china ones it came with and custom ordered seals and custom drilled and tapped hiles for grease inserts for the front and rear of the lathe spindle head. the bed will have to be scrapped/filed level, the saddle then lapped to the lathe with sand paper (search for videos), then the cross slide work and so forth. you can figure about 40-50 hours of tinkering to get it right for first good cutting. you probably need to order 3/8 or evne 1/2" butting bit folders as the 1/4" do not properly fit anything. if you put the time in, they can turn into a great lathe, if not, it will jsut produce junk. a named brand would have costed you $3500+ for one that is doen out of the box. so for under $1k you got got out cheap! take it totally appart and elarh how it goes back together and see what you can do to tweak it for better. that's the fun part of these.
It is really bad, but way better than my Einhell BT-ML300 (7x12"), but at least your has the metal gears. Everything can be tuned up and tightened so it works way better. I did it with my Einhell, and it works nice now for last 8 years when I bought it used. Good luck!
Not comfortable with the gears being loose but let’s run it up to 1400 rpm and see how it holds up. Just to be clear, you weren’t “cutting” you were moving metal. Insert was above centerline so you weren’t engaging the part of the tool that cuts. Also confused on why you didn’t just take the carriage off to tighten it up rather than taking the lead screw out to gain clearance. Just because the thrust bearings were dry, doesn’t mean you couldn’t have oiled them using the supplied oil cup on top of the bearing housing. I would refrain from doing reviews before you’ve had a chance to go over everything. Also to address your speed issue, check to see if it’s variable speed from 100-2500. Just because the speed dial sticker says zero, doesn’t mean you start at that unless you ordered it that way with those specs.
The gear system is designed to have play. You can tighten them up, but they will become extremely noisy. You can run plastic gears tighter, with less noise.
It's a cheap Chinese lathe, what did you expect? You can buy it cheap, invest in upgrades and improvements, and have a half-decent machine, or you can spend the same amount on a good machine from the start. You can't pinch pennies then complain about what you got. Spend the money on a good one the first time. Buy once, cry once.
Yes, this guy does not know what he is doing and then blames the lathe, Mate you need to clean and set it up correctly before you do anything it will not work out of the box like that.
Wow! Searching for a beginner metal lathe, Vevor was on my list. Emphasize "was"! Thank you for sharing your experience and sparing me the nightmare. I hope you get it working properly. Personally, I'm going to increase my budget.
You are going to be the same thing from any other Chinese lathe that is at this price point. What do you expect for 650.00. ? Micro-Mark has a better one, that is pre adjusted and tested for proper operation. They then disassemble, and pack separately to avoid all of the damage. It is also built to Micro Marls specs. I have the Vevor, and the Micro mark side by side in my shop, and the build quality is better on the Micro Mark. The advantage of the Vevor, is the larger Chuck, and the ability to run much larger diameters thru the spindle. I think the spindle bore at least double that of the Micro Mark.
Dude...WTF!!! The tool is set too high. Geezuz H. Khrist I could tell that the first second you tried to make a cut. Yeah that lathe looks like a POC but you don't seem to have much lathe experience either. A good machinist can make even a bad machine work.... Maybe try woodworking???
You should delete this video and go watch a few dozen videos on setting up and running a lathe. It's obvious you have zero experience in running a lathe. I know you will not like my comment but it will help you now and in the future.
Man soll nicht etwas kritisieren und schlecht bewerten nur weil man keine Ahnung hat , diese Maschine funktioniert einmal ordentlich eingestellt , ausgezeichnet für den Hobbygebrauch
I'm not any one to talk as i have zero lathe experience but even i could tell you were spinning in the wrong direction . why haven't you updated your edit an let the viewers know you didn't know your self what you were doing? this is such a misleading review its insane.
You do NOT use Greese first mistake, you use Oil on leadscrew bearing. You must tighten up saddle bolts. You must only greese gears . Not a good Lathe especially if, the motor is part of the Spindle. Best of luck:
Wrong tool, wrong height, wrong speed, not sitting on a solid surface, not bolted down, no tailstock used, and feeding backwards. This was like watching someone drive stick shift without ever having seen a car before. The fact that everything was so loose on the lathe makes me think this thing was abused during shipping because that is not normal. Unless you had already ran it for a while not bolted down, vibrating everything loose.
Nah , they come that way. Seen 3 so far and nothing is adjusted correctly. Anyone buy these learn to check your spindle bearing tightness also.
They take some tuning but I have had lesser brands turn out good work
I also guess that the wrong tool was not on center height either. Check this with a face cut (with the material sled back a lot please) and adjust accordingly. Before killing a machine on TH-cam get acquainted well first with the machine and the trade. Tip; HSS works great on brass and it's cheap and can be sharpened indefinite. Good luck with your journey and all the best, Job
Exactly.
First time using a lathe?
Got mine just yesterday, very same model (MX-S716)
First lathe experience in my life (I'm 66) although I like to fiddle with mechanics from time to time.
So I spent half a day checking tutorials on YT, learned the basic controls, parts names and understood the weak spots of the machine, then spent half a day more adjusting play, tightening (or loosening in some cases) nuts and bolts and finishing with a good coat of lithium grease on slides, screw, gears, rack and pinion until all travels were smooth enough with the least possible amount of play.
And then... time to make some shavings! Put a tool on, set the correct angle and height as seen in the tutorials, clamped on chuck a brass rod about the same size of that shown in the video, and.... got a mirror finish on first try, both shaft and face 😃
Then I stood for quite a while contemplating my debut feature, feeling its satisfying smoothness and pondering over the undeniable fact that you cannot expect to have such a complex tool working flawlessly right out of the box and that, especially when dealing with cheap chinese items, "no pain, no gain", but patience, curiosity and learning can prove rewarding in the end.
Someone does a lathe review. Same person also does a test-run with about 6 times diameter stickout and the cutting tool improperly shimmed. Lathe might be trash but at least try to handle it correctly.
Came here to say this. I have one of these cheap import lathes. Different brand but same thing under a different coat of paint. These can cut brass or aluminium easily when they're used properly and set up correctly. I've turned mild steel on mine, although it's tough and results aren't amazing. Could probably be improved though as I have seen people turn steel on these latches with success
When I learned machining basics, on of my teachers said, when you don´t know what you are doing, you need the best equipment, experienced guys can better handle less good equipment and make it work - this video clearly shows he was right.
When you dont know what your doing its hard to tell if you or the tool.
These inexpensive lathes are a learning curve many dont have the patience for. Im no machinist but I bought a used lathe for $200 and Im about $800 into repairs/parts/tooling.
Been a fun yet frustrating experience. Im a mechanic by trade and mechanical things interest me and fixing them as well.
Sad part is people buying these $400-$1000 lathes most likely dont have resources to dump more money at them.
@@Mac-mu9csWhat should a beginner buy? please give me a link
I have bought the exact same unit and had no problems. Out of the box!
If you are going to set a tool you do it either on center height or below never above unless you are boring an inside diameter then the opposite is the case. This is extremely important as you want the cutting edge to make contact with the job and not just rub on a lower part. Being on center also makes sure it will cut the diameter you have applied to the hand wheel.
I bought mine due to it having the largest bore through spindle that you can get in a mini lathe. It isn't a power house but with common sense it works just fine.
If the unit isnt stopping the stop switch is wired incorrectly, it needs to stay on usually to remain open circuit so just use the E stop button as it will hold down the contact and make it go open circuit. If you must just use the stop button additional relays are needed in the control.
yea this guy set himself up for failure in a lot of cases. The screeching was because he was using it wrong. The thing being so loose does seem odd. Obviously it needs to be bolted on a workbench, but whoever assembled it did a shit job or this thing was shipped on a shaker table.
Did you not see your insert shatter and loose it's tip on your first pass? Apparently not because you continued to try and cut....backwards direction ....with a 1/4 tool in a 1/2 holder. Scary bad. I would suggest watching a vid or two from Open Source Machine Tools lathe vids before turning your lathe on again. Seriously.
9:30-11:10 was genuinely hard to watch. Holy shit
Hard to watch is an understatement.
I wanna fast forward 😅 reading comments is making me wanna watch and see what happens.
Inexperience with one of these machines is truly asking for trouble. I too was suffering watching the tool height massively out and wrong feed direction omg....
I dont understand you guys complain about super cheap mini lathes. It has a reason why they are cheap. There are a lot of videos online saying that you have to improve them on your own. So did i. And i really have to say for that amount of money i’ve spent its a decent lathe.
You can spend more on material upgrading these. End use is key to buying inexpensive tools. For a DIY space saving option with out spending $1000s
Question : how much do you think you need to spend to get “use out of box” level. Minus cleaning and proper adjustment checks if course.
From what I've been told by machinists I've asked about these mini lathes it's about 3k to get one good out of the box.
@@jamesandrew3727 how much to get lathe in video up to snuff.
$3000 is a lot for diy hobby , try it types. Then you still need tooling
@@jamesandrew3727I also bought a Micro Mark. They are adjusted properly and will perform right out of the box. You’re talking over double the money. I paid 650. For the Vevor, and about 1500. For the Micro Mark. I’m going to sell the.Vevor once I get done improving and adjusting it.
I assume you are a first time user and have understood by now what you did wrong? (center height, speed, feed direction, tooling, tailstock support). Poor lathe, poor ears, poor knowledge, poor review..
Although the play is quite large, it matters less than you think. Every lathe has play, and you just have to take that into account, regardless of the amount. Anyway, mini lathes as cheap as these need a lot of TLC but mostly will do the job afterwards. Yours is probably abused during shipping.
Take some time to clean and adjust everything, and take more time to learn how to use a lathe.
I bought one of their 7x14 models from Amazon and it showed up at my place completely demolished. No exaggeration: it was totally busted up and missing all of the peripheral parts like gears, belts, tools, etc. The busted up wooden crate should have been a dead give-away that the contents of that crate were in bad shape, but they sent it anyway.
I contacted Amazon about it, and they sent someone out to pick it up and take it back. Three days later a brand-new replacement was delivered. The wooden crate of the replacement lathe looked a bit more pristine, so I had high hopes that the previous mini lathe was just an unfortunate mistake.
When I opened up the crate of the brand-new replacement mini lathe, I found that it too had sustained enough damage to render it non-functional without replacing several major components. It took a little over two weeks for Vevor to send out the replacement parts I needed to install before this "Brand-New" mini lathe would function.
I finally got all of the replacement parts installed and ready for its' maiden run. It looked and ran perfectly for about five minutes, then I started hearing some rattling coming from under the gear cover. That rattling turned into a loud clunking sound, so I quickly turned off the machine. I found that one of the little brass studs that hold the smaller 20-teeth gear had sheared off right at its' base.
I'm now waiting for the replacement brass stud to be shipped to me. In the meantime, I've been able to modify the studs on which the 20 and 25 teeth gears rotate on by fabricating some replacements out of tool steel. I've modified those studs so as to be able to use bearings in place of the metal-to-metal fit that caused the brass components to shear off at the slightest amount of heat and pressure.
The only reason I kept the second lathe they sent out was because they gave me a huge discount if I kept it. I got it running really well now. Right now I'm waiting for some extra gears to show up so I can cut some specific thread. This mini lathe is capable to cutting a fairly large range of imperial threads but the gears that came with it are not the correct ones to cut the thread pitches I'm needing.
You're right when you state, "Don't Buy" these Vevor lathes. They can be more trouble than they're worth.
I don't think your tool height is correct.
After watching many reviews I put off buying a mini for over 12mths but finally got 1. It has loose joints all over but I hadn't touched a lathe in over 30yrs so expect to learn a lot along the way. Saw many of the same issues as you but the VS not stopping is a concern, hopefully it's just a grub screw in the knob that needs tightening after you adjust to the 0 position.
I bought this same lathe. Although it had a few issues, Vevor has been great with customer service. The only drawback is they were unable to supply some parts, which I had to purchase elsewhere. Vevor actually refunded me 300. For the inconvenience. They responded within 24 hours, every time I contacted them. You have to dial in these Chinese lathes, but after you go thru them, they are pretty good for the price.
My Vevor came without grub screws in the carriage slides. These allow you to tighten the mounting screws, and still maintain the adjustment. I ordered some from Little Machine Shop
I bought one of their 8.5" models. tail stock was .083" below the spindle, tail stock screw was bent, gear box was dry, handwheels broken.
I bought a second hand MX 600A that had everything done on it. I would say they are excellent value for the money. You have to remember that if you want perfection it comes at a very high price.
Did you pay more for this “up graded” machine?
@@Mac-mu9cs No, I actually picked it up for £520 with extras. The lathe was less than twelve months old and like new. The guy was moving house and didn't have room for it.
@@geoffankrett7012
Nice, hard to compare one thats been worked over to OOTB. Im curious though how much money is spent up grading these and can you reach a level up and still be ahead on price point.
I would love to see a head to head
Get what you pay for review
$500 , $1000, $1500 ect and can you reach that price point with less money modifying a less expensive unit?
Im not so sure its possible.
If I did not pick up my 1220 used for $200 I wouldn’t have been able to afford to fix it up a little. I can see why it’s very discouraging for people when they spend 6 to 800 bucks on a small leave and it doesn’t perform at all.
@@Mac-mu9cs To be honest, you can make them good for smallish jobs, but when it comes to bigger jobs, you won't beat a big beefy lathe
@@geoffankrett7012 im all for the “right” size .
I got a PM190-V. Same size, same box, double the price. There are differences: I can change speeds electronically and via pulley changes. My lead spindle is dust covered and the bed is ground and hardened in Germany. It also never goes completely to zero. I also have another motor in it. I figured in the end you pay either for those features upfront or by time modifying. I recommend a quick change toolpost. Align tool heigt with center of tail stock. Engage tailstock and bolt it down. Otherwise I would expect all what you mentioned and would see that as normal on a lathe. There is always some play. Anyhow I hope it will work in the end for you.
I didn’t think Precision Mathew’s made this small of lathe. I know their smaller lathes are out of stock right now, but I’d like to have one. I believe they are much Heavier, which would give them much less flex.
1- zanim kupiłeś mogłeś zobaczyć inne filmy o tanich chińskich tokarka , jak pracują jak ustawić i z czym się trzeba mierzyć podczas pracy na niej.
2- z tego co rozumiem wypowiadasz się o niej krytycznie ale jednocześnie nie przygotowałeś jej do pracy i używasz jej jak byś pracował na tokarce po raz pierwszy - uważam że uczciwie było by sprostować ten film po nabraniu wiedzy
Mam wiele filmów o przygotowaniu takich tokarek do pracy i jak na nich pracować podpatrz sobie ;)
Fakt to nie tokarki przemysłowe ale i ich cena jest adekwatna do jakości i możliwości
I have the same one, it is what it is at that price point. But I love it and enjoy improving it and using it.
I have the exact same lathe, first thing I did was bolt it down solidly checked the ways were level, the went through the whole lathe cleaning and adjusting, set up the tailstock on centre, used the correct sized tooling and shimmed to cut on centre line, and it has proved to be a good reliable lathe which i use nearly everyday on steel, brass and aluminium.
Note always stop the lathe with the stop button and not the speed control, and always do your cuts towards the tailstock with minimal stick out of the workpiece, if it's a long bar use a live centre and if it really long a cats head support as well.
One last thing don't cheap out on tooling decent tooling will last and give a good surface finish, also use the right tooling for the job dependant on the material and depth of cut.
You can expect to spend twice the cost of the lathe on tooling which people tend to forget!
The turning spindle is most likely due to a bad calibrated resistor on the circuit board. (Think is is a resistor?). Basically, it is supposed to feed more power to the motor when under stress, keeping the rotations fairly equal. Regardless of the material or depth of cut you take. I have seen it quite a few times where it is set to high and makes the spindle rotate in the 0 position. The fix is rather easy..when you access the circuit board behind the control panel, you will find one or two resistors with a plastic cross-head screw. Since I have no clue of the controller board used here, and if there are two, I would go with the top one first (just because you have to start somewhere). Make a small marking on the plast screw head and the housing, then turn it a quarter turn anti-clock wise and try again. If you have the right one, the rotations should reduce or become zero. If it is the same and you have two, set it back to original and try the other one. Good luck and thanks for sharing.
Gerby.
you mean the potentiometer.
Probably correct. English is not my native language and electronics not really my thing 😃 @@excitedbox5705
There are often adjustments on the circuit boards. BUT theres usually a min and max speed you want zero turn it off.
I wouldn't rely on a pot to consider the spindle stopped and safe to manipulate. Better switch it off altogether.
Welcome to the pain of small lathes. I started out on a 6" Atlas that the previous owners obviously abused and it took a long time to get it into shape.
A few things I would recommend is don't have that much stick out without tail support, feed towards the head if you can and use HSS on brass. HSS shears or slices if you will, Carbide works in a different way unless you are using inserts designed for Aluminum which are sharp on the edges like using HSS.
Make a shear blade out of HSS, this will give you some really nice finishes on projects. Even the cheap HSS that you get from China or India will do very nice work if you shape it correctly, I have used just about every name brand out there and the cheap stuff holds an edge just about as well if used properly. M2 HSS will work fine with about anything a mini lathe can do, there is no need to get a higher grade like M35 or M42 which is much harder to form.
Also when sharpening your HSS use a double sided 6" diamond honing stone for finishing it. When using a diamond stone don't put water on it as it will rust, wet the stone with Windex window cleaner (or a window cleaner like it) and it won't rust, I wet mine down while sharpening/finishing my HSS and this will float the HSS out of the diamond and not let it build up so you don't have to do as much cleaning to get it out of the hone.
I have the Vevor 9x32 lathe and I can not recommend them. The stuff you describe is pretty standard for all mini lathes, you have to completely (and I mean COMPLETELY) disassemble everything then clean, lube, reassemble, tighten and adjust everything to specification. You will find metal shavings and dust in critical bearings that are contaminated and must be cleaned if you want your lathe to last a few years. It is pretty much the way it is even for import lathes that cost 5 times as much and are much bigger.
However the reason I can not recommend Vevor is because my lathe came with critical errors in the machining of the lathe bed that make it inaccurate. The flat ways on the bed top and bottom are not parallel and as such the cross slide carriage can never be adjusted correctly to traverse the length of the bed ways. It is either too tight or too loose in one spot or another because of this.
Another major inaccuracy is that there is sag in the main bed in the middle. A precision straight edge placed along the bed shows significant gap in the middle (probably 20 thou). This is verifiable with numerous straight edges so it is definitely the lathe. Luckily this is fixable with a thick steel plate for a table top underneath which I already have and have bolted it to and shimmed it to near enough tolerance. The bed ways out of parallel is correctable with machining the bottom surface to bring it parallel and that is progressing.
It could be thought of as a toss up between buying an old used higher quality lathe that will need wear issues corrected or a new one that will need assembly issues corrected. Both will be considerable work to get accurate machining with long term reliability.
how is the motor connected ?
Its attached on the backside with gears
@@rebelfabricationllc hm ok I cant find any pictures of it on google.
Can you explain how it look ? is it one or more metal gears? would it be easy to upgrade with another motor?
Those gears are meant to have a little play in them.
Don't be discouraged. With a little bit of work done on it you'll have your own little gem of a lathe. And will come to love it.
have had one of these for five years and mine is belt drive, it has stood up well for a cheap lathe, haven't used it to cut threads yet, I would go for a good old Atlas or American lathe if I had it to do over, but at the time it was hard to find a small decent American made lathe, miss having my old war production lathe from the 40s
Have to agree with others, the tool has the kind of issues cheap machine tools tend to have but you don't really seem to know what you are doing.
I had a VEVOR 8x14 for more than 2 years. I paid about us$600 and I received a machine that worth a lot more than the 600 that I paid. Of course, it is not a precision tool and not performs like a 3000 or 4000 dollars lathe.
Mine had been a little abused during transportation, but nothing important besides the a little bit bend the lathe tray. Maybe the manufactured should improve the crating since the machine it is a little heavy to be by handled for one delivery Amazon guy and they just dropped and not carry with care.
Before use the lathe needs to perform some adjustments and tuning. My had the gears misaligned and one gear had missing the key (or maybe I dropped and lost it since they very tiny)
Most of the adjustment and tuning are very easy and common sense logic.
My lathe had the same problem the one show in the video: did not stop with the knob at the “cero” position. I corrected this adjusting two tiny adjusting pots in the motor drive. I do not recommend to do this if you are not familiar to work with electronics and live wires.
I turn wood, plastic, aluminum, brass without problem. Take me a lot to turn iron or steel since don’t have enough power.
I don’t have the machine bolted down to the bench. The machine is heavy enough to remains in place during operations and allows me to move the lathe around to clean.
For those below with way more knowledge than i have, what do you recommend at roughly the same price point? Get an older Taige, Craftsmen etc and rebuild it?
to je odvaha ! zverejniť takéto video !
If you're cutting tool is to high its not cutting anything but it can cut being to low
You’re filming in square video why?
Square videos matter too
you really have no idea what you are doing.
I say it's a match made in heaven! You can't spend a little and expect much.
Looks like the tool height is wrong so it is just rubbing on the workpiece, not cutting. That’s not the fault of the lathe
Where you located? If you're close enough I might buy it off you. I'd be interested in it to play with.
I don’t know where you are located, but I’m fine tuning upgrading this same model. I will be selling it for much less than I paid two or so months ago. Im in the San Francisco Bay Area.
Oh dear, oh dear. But we all have to start somewhere. Try reading a few "how to's" before just diving in and condemning the machine. It didn't stand a chance with what you did. :-(
Its not the lathe its the lack of knowledge of the user... watch some videos dude
User lathed the lathe correctly, knowledge was lathable
lol@@Bigfluffydoggos
@@Bigfluffydoggos Very relathable. Btw, I have a Puli... that's some fluffy doggo 😁
I've seen alot of these lathe videos and this seems to be very standard for a vevor lathe. It will take a bit of time and some modifications to get it working perfectly
I think you may have been putting to much pressure on that tool when machining brass
Thankfully you didn’t get a chip of carbide between the eyes.
The green button is the "turn it on -make the spindle turn" button.
The speed control knob is just that!
It makes it go slow or fast, it does NOT turn it on of off!
Your tool wont cut because, as you said, it is too high!
Any tool has to be shimmed to the center height if you want it to cut.
The play in the gears and feed knobs is NORMAL!
They can be adjusted but there will AWAYS be play!
You are the guy who would buy a guitar and then do a review saying it was crap because it was not tuned "out of the box"!
Lathes require setting up, just like guitars do.
Tool height and speed matter.
AND you can do pression work, even with "all that play" in the feed knobs!
Take the time to learn how to drive a lathe before you post a crappy review!
Thanks! I know most of these Chinese made mini lathes need some tweaking, but out of the box, this one seems to be a piece of crap. I watched another video where someone applied like 15 - 20 modifications to bring this lathe up to snuff. After that is was a good machine. But I don't have time and patience or expertise to F*&^K around with a machine to get it where it's supposed to be, so I'll keep looking. I would pay an extra 300-400 Dollars to get one that was usable and precise out of the box.
$400 more most likely wont get you there. Same crap. Might have better looking handles and maybe correct size tool pist.
I don’t think you’ll find anything that will be right out of the box ready at least in the under $2000 range
La altura del filo de la herramienta no es correcta, posiblemente las velocidad RPM , tampoco, engranes están mal alineados, algo está mal armado o es defecto de fabrica, hay que verificar también el tipo de herramienta.
Saludos
Oh man, I have now seen 3x20 sec of this video.
The man thinks that you get a lathe ready to go
small lathes are cheap for a reason, you haver ot tear them appart when you get the, clean and re-lube all. i even swapped out my headstock bearings to skf from the chepo china ones it came with and custom ordered seals and custom drilled and tapped hiles for grease inserts for the front and rear of the lathe spindle head. the bed will have to be scrapped/filed level, the saddle then lapped to the lathe with sand paper (search for videos), then the cross slide work and so forth. you can figure about 40-50 hours of tinkering to get it right for first good cutting. you probably need to order 3/8 or evne 1/2" butting bit folders as the 1/4" do not properly fit anything. if you put the time in, they can turn into a great lathe, if not, it will jsut produce junk. a named brand would have costed you $3500+ for one that is doen out of the box. so for under $1k you got got out cheap! take it totally appart and elarh how it goes back together and see what you can do to tweak it for better. that's the fun part of these.
It is really bad, but way better than my Einhell BT-ML300 (7x12"), but at least your has the metal gears. Everything can be tuned up and tightened so it works way better. I did it with my Einhell, and it works nice now for last 8 years when I bought it used. Good luck!
Maybe watch a video first on using a lathe. 😢
Tip of the cutting tool isnt centre to the work piece,why didn’t you check the height of the tool before cutting.
Don’t forget to oil your screws!
The speed dial should be marked 'Slow' - 'Fast', for 'Stop' ALWAYS stop the motor (big RED button).
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice lathe
dude has no idea he could've died using the lathe like that
What did he do that was that dangerous?
Not comfortable with the gears being loose but let’s run it up to 1400 rpm and see how it holds up. Just to be clear, you weren’t “cutting” you were moving metal. Insert was above centerline so you weren’t engaging the part of the tool that cuts. Also confused on why you didn’t just take the carriage off to tighten it up rather than taking the lead screw out to gain clearance. Just because the thrust bearings were dry, doesn’t mean you couldn’t have oiled them using the supplied oil cup on top of the bearing housing. I would refrain from doing reviews before you’ve had a chance to go over everything. Also to address your speed issue, check to see if it’s variable speed from 100-2500. Just because the speed dial sticker says zero, doesn’t mean you start at that unless you ordered it that way with those specs.
The gear system is designed to have play. You can tighten them up, but they will become extremely noisy. You can run plastic gears tighter, with less noise.
@@rodgraff1782 I am aware. Thanks. This was in response to OP
This was painful to watch. Would recommend learning how to use a lathe first before saying it’s trash
Good Load, with this attitude and without the slightest knowledge about this type of lathes you´ll never succeed. "Rebel"...how old are you?
It's a cheap Chinese lathe, what did you expect? You can buy it cheap, invest in upgrades and improvements, and have a half-decent machine, or you can spend the same amount on a good machine from the start. You can't pinch pennies then complain about what you got. Spend the money on a good one the first time. Buy once, cry once.
Yes, this guy does not know what he is doing and then blames the lathe, Mate you need to clean and set it up correctly before you do anything it will not work out of the box like that.
read a book on lathes and watch some videos before you put this out for all to see, but then again its too late isnt it
Well that's a boat anchor
Wow! Searching for a beginner metal lathe, Vevor was on my list. Emphasize "was"! Thank you for sharing your experience and sparing me the nightmare. I hope you get it working properly. Personally, I'm going to increase my budget.
You are going to be the same thing from any other Chinese lathe that is at this price point. What do you expect for 650.00. ? Micro-Mark has a better one, that is pre adjusted and tested for proper operation. They then disassemble, and pack separately to avoid all of the damage. It is also built to Micro Marls specs. I have the Vevor, and the Micro mark side by side in my shop, and the build quality is better on the Micro Mark. The advantage of the Vevor, is the larger Chuck, and the ability to run much larger diameters thru the spindle. I think the spindle bore at least double that of the Micro Mark.
@@rodgraff1782 Thank you for the input. After a little more shopping around I realized I'll have to spend more money 😄
You get what you pay for…all their stuff is budget sub standard…poor mass produced copies
Dude...WTF!!! The tool is set too high. Geezuz H. Khrist I could tell that the first second you tried to make a cut. Yeah that lathe looks like a POC but you don't seem to have much lathe experience either. A good machinist can make even a bad machine work.... Maybe try woodworking???
You should delete this video and go watch a few dozen videos on setting up and running a lathe.
It's obvious you have zero experience in running a lathe. I know you will not like my comment but it will help you now and in the future.
I disagree, you need a baseline, go compare to the apparently similar Grizzly of Clough42
you killing machine
can't understand you mate
You need to learn how to use a lathe before you review it
Your lucky mate mine wouldnt machine Cheese !!!
Man soll nicht etwas kritisieren und schlecht bewerten nur weil man keine Ahnung hat , diese Maschine funktioniert einmal ordentlich eingestellt , ausgezeichnet für den Hobbygebrauch
I'm not any one to talk as i have zero lathe experience but even i could tell you were spinning in the wrong direction . why haven't you updated your edit an let the viewers know you didn't know your self what you were doing? this is such a misleading review its insane.
Too, two, to, tu-tu, whatever.
Try not to mumble so much. Hard to follow.
Tyyyuhhbh
You do NOT use Greese first mistake, you use Oil on leadscrew bearing. You must tighten up saddle bolts. You must only greese gears . Not a good Lathe especially if, the motor is part of the Spindle. Best of luck: