I have same. One of those pieces that makes you feel like a king. I've replaced zebras and case is glued and taped together all over the place. It's quick and accurate. I'll have it with me when I am cremated. I find RP7 a good switch contact cleaner. Has worked when WD40 did not. Recovered many a switch without opening. Thanks for sharing and hope it works another 30 years for you.
In Canada, Fluke meters have always been super expensive. The first DMM I bought was a Fluke 77 back in 1989 when in college. At that time, it cost me $320. It still looks and functions like new. I bought a Fluke 12 in 1994 and a few years ago two of the plastic screw standoffs broke off just unscrewing the back screws to change the battery. Now it has intermittent connection and won't turn on unless I put screws in with just the right pressure. The battery contacts seem to be very thin and bend too easily. I rarely used this meter, so I guess the plastic is breaking down over time. About 10 years ago I bought the Fluke 87, and it is still working well. Fluke has always been my favourite brand of DMM.
I have a new fluke that I have never used. Bought it off Facebook a few months ago. Looks like it was never used by the previous owner either. Came from the seller's dad's estate. He was an old tv tech and when he died his son put all his stuff up for sale. Scope meter tv anylist. I grabbed the meter, but didn't need another scope so I left that.
I have a Fluke 73 I got new in about 1988. Great little meter but the plastic case is getting brittle. Last time I changed the battery three of the plastic posts for the screws broke off. I had to modify it with machine screws to hold it together.
Smashing, well done dave, it just needed a service, thats fine :-D I was given a fluke 111 meter, not a high spec meter and i suspect it was not designed for electronic use, electrician use maybe. Amazingly my old micronta meter was so close to it, i calibrated the micronta by changing the reference resistors ten years back with a bag of 1% resistors. Quite close considering my gut feeling. That micronta was made in 1983. Oddly the single chip was made by sieko, i didnt know they made anything other than watches.
I don't think Fluke meters are expensive. OK, they cost good money when you buy them, but they stay reliable for decades. I've got two of them, a 73 updated with the 75 knob so I could have range selection. It's over 40 years old and going strong. The other is a 87-4, about 20 years old since I bought it and also still reliable. I think they are awesome!
The Fluke meters are a work horse; I got a demo unit that lasted well over 20 years, finally the selector switch wore out, Later picked up a second hand one that works great, supper accurate.
You just watched a repair video of a yamaha synth you made years ago, great work on that repair. My synth worked perfectly until i used a new 12 volt ac power cord. AC works from the power supply but suddenly the batteries dont do anything my multimeter is reading 8v from the 6 (1.5v) c batteries. Any idea whats going on? Did the new AC power supply break the dc power switch or something? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Good thing you got it fixed. It seems to have pretty good capasitance measurement also, which most cheaper multimeters do not. My Mastech multimeter has a capacity measuring, but is only up to 10uF, and i dont really trust it
I had a Chinese cheap model multimeter that was broken after one year. The continuity started to beep on and off at irregular times all by itself. Now I have a Hioki (Japanese brand) multimeter for a decent/fair price. And no, I'm not from Japan😉 But my girlfriend is. Fluke is just too expensive for what you get.
What brand is that bench PSU? Been looking to buy one and currently looking at a Siglent linear one because all the cheap switching ones seem to have complaints regarding output spikes.
Fluke test gear has never been cheap, but compared to the cheaper brands they last far longer. If you can find a used one that has not been abused, it will last many years even if you have to clean the switch a few times. The made in China ones are ok for a hobbyist, but just don't last with daily use.
Fluke is the standard. Military spec made in the USA. Fluke, tektrobix and hp. You pay the price for quality. I bought this meter for 12.00 at one of the first ham swap meets i attended. Early 90s, perhaps 93. I used it at the shop because the a55hole shop owner didn't want me using his fluke 77. I had a micronta as well and it wasn't very good. So i brought this one in. The guy I worked for was a miserable little pr1ck that didn't want anyone using his tools even though he was making money off us.
@@12voltvids Having worked in test equipment repair and calibration, i can only agree with you. Re shop owners, they are all only interested in making a profit, and are as mean as possible when it comes to buying good tools and test gear, i had one hell of a row with my boss when he took on the local Pioneer repair centre roll, it took Pioneer themselves to insist he bought the right gear and test discs to enable us to do the repairs and alignments correctly, i still have that gear, but he made me pay something for it when the shop closed. There are no friends in business, as long as you work for someone else you won't make much money, i just wish that i had gone self employed before i was forced into it, i paid my mortgage off in 5 years instead of 25 years.
Great! I assumed they have a timer to shut them off after a period of non-use, and I was thinking it was the timing circuit , but I don't have that meter, and the symptoms must not point to that. Most people it seems will toss a malfunctioning meter and get another. To be able to restore an old one is great.
@@12voltvids The evaporating sweat (and breadth!) actually releases sulphur as hydrogen sulphide gas. So it gets to anywhere along with other gases, air included. In the old days, when "silverware" was indeed silver (not the present stainless steel), cleaning the tarnish was a repeating task, even on spoons, forks and knives stored in drawers and possibly even wrapped in fine paper. My childhood dedicated spoon was in daily use and was scoured after every meal, but occasionally needed heavier cleaning. Other, inherited antique silver was hopefully stored away from daily handling, but tarnished the same, or even more.
@@worroSfOretsevraH Because it is tuned to have an "optimal" amount of abrasiveness. It used to have calcium carbonate. Then the famous Swedish weapons manufacturer Bofors ran a large number of tests and found evidence about its destructive effect to tooth enamel. That was used in their campaign to launch a new tooth paste witch softer plastic balls as the milder abrasive. Actually Bofors ran their tests against acrylic sheets. But anyway, now presumably all the toothpastes contain plastic microballs. Clean your teeth and whiten them. Also clean silver from the tarnish, while damaging silver less than the old calcium carbonate was doing, and still effective enough. Also fill the oceans with those plastic microballs...
![[Sub Thai] APT. - ROSÉ & Bruno Mars](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bYjhzP8x_uc/mqdefault.jpg)
I have same. One of those pieces that makes you feel like a king. I've replaced zebras and case is glued and taped together all over the place. It's quick and accurate. I'll have it with me when I am cremated. I find RP7 a good switch contact cleaner. Has worked when WD40 did not. Recovered many a switch without opening. Thanks for sharing and hope it works another 30 years for you.
Haven't watched this channel in ages.👍🇮🇪💚🙏🏻
Welcome back
In Canada, Fluke meters have always been super expensive. The first DMM I bought was a Fluke 77 back in 1989 when in college. At that time, it cost me $320. It still looks and functions like new. I bought a Fluke 12 in 1994 and a few years ago two of the plastic screw standoffs broke off just unscrewing the back screws to change the battery. Now it has intermittent connection and won't turn on unless I put screws in with just the right pressure. The battery contacts seem to be very thin and bend too easily. I rarely used this meter, so I guess the plastic is breaking down over time. About 10 years ago I bought the Fluke 87, and it is still working well. Fluke has always been my favourite brand of DMM.
I have a new fluke that I have never used. Bought it off Facebook a few months ago. Looks like it was never used by the previous owner either. Came from the seller's dad's estate. He was an old tv tech and when he died his son put all his stuff up for sale. Scope meter tv anylist. I grabbed the meter, but didn't need another scope so I left that.
✋ Take the batteries out...
Interesting vid... That Fluke 20 may just last forever 👍
Nice compact meter, wish they still made them
I have a Fluke 73 I got new in about 1988. Great little meter but the plastic case is getting brittle. Last time I changed the battery three of the plastic posts for the screws broke off. I had to modify it with machine screws to hold it together.
Smashing, well done dave, it just needed a service, thats fine :-D
I was given a fluke 111 meter, not a high spec meter and i suspect it was not designed for electronic use, electrician use maybe.
Amazingly my old micronta meter was so close to it, i calibrated the micronta by changing the reference resistors ten years back with a bag of 1% resistors.
Quite close considering my gut feeling.
That micronta was made in 1983.
Oddly the single chip was made by sieko, i didnt know they made anything other than watches.
Really banging them out tonight huh? Great content I kinda figured watching your previous videos from today the meter was next lol
That should do it till next tuesday. Perhaps sunday if I have time.
I don't think Fluke meters are expensive. OK, they cost good money when you buy them, but they stay reliable for decades. I've got two of them, a 73 updated with the 75 knob so I could have range selection. It's over 40 years old and going strong. The other is a 87-4, about 20 years old since I bought it and also still reliable. I think they are awesome!
The Fluke meters are a work horse; I got a demo unit that lasted well over 20 years, finally the selector switch wore out, Later picked up a second hand one that works great, supper accurate.
You just watched a repair video of a yamaha synth you made years ago, great work on that repair. My synth worked perfectly until i used a new 12 volt ac power cord. AC works from the power supply but suddenly the batteries dont do anything my multimeter is reading 8v from the 6 (1.5v) c batteries. Any idea whats going on? Did the new AC power supply break the dc power switch or something? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Good thing you got it fixed. It seems to have pretty good capasitance measurement also, which most cheaper multimeters do not. My Mastech multimeter has a capacity measuring, but is only up to 10uF, and i dont really trust it
I have a Fluke still new in the box from RP Electronics. I have been using the Circuit Test DMR-6500 all the time.
👍Fluke for the win!
I had a Chinese cheap model multimeter that was broken after one year. The continuity started to beep on and off at irregular times all by itself. Now I have a Hioki (Japanese brand) multimeter for a decent/fair price. And no, I'm not from Japan😉 But my girlfriend is. Fluke is just too expensive for what you get.
What brand is that bench PSU? Been looking to buy one and currently looking at a Siglent linear one because all the cheap switching ones seem to have complaints regarding output spikes.
This one is s switching supply and it has been good b
@@12voltvids what brand is it?
i was waiting for a DMM repair video ;)
Great video fixed like new
Fluke test gear has never been cheap, but compared to the cheaper brands they last far longer.
If you can find a used one that has not been abused, it will last many years even if you have to clean
the switch a few times.
The made in China ones are ok for a hobbyist, but just don't last with daily use.
Fluke is the standard. Military spec made in the USA. Fluke, tektrobix and hp. You pay the price for quality. I bought this meter for 12.00 at one of the first ham swap meets i attended. Early 90s, perhaps 93. I used it at the shop because the a55hole shop owner didn't want me using his fluke 77. I had a micronta as well and it wasn't very good. So i brought this one in. The guy I worked for was a miserable little pr1ck that didn't want anyone using his tools even though he was making money off us.
@@12voltvids Having worked in test equipment repair and calibration, i can only agree with you.
Re shop owners, they are all only interested in making a profit, and are as mean as possible when it comes
to buying good tools and test gear, i had one hell of a row with my boss when he took on the local Pioneer
repair centre roll, it took Pioneer themselves to insist he bought the right gear and test discs to enable us to
do the repairs and alignments correctly, i still have that gear, but he made me pay something for it when
the shop closed.
There are no friends in business, as long as you work for someone else you won't make much money,
i just wish that i had gone self employed before i was forced into it, i paid my mortgage off in 5 years
instead of 25 years.
Great! I assumed they have a timer to shut them off after a period of non-use, and I was thinking it was the timing circuit , but I don't have that meter, and the symptoms must not point to that.
Most people it seems will toss a malfunctioning meter and get another.
To be able to restore an old one is great.
Take the battery out of the newer meter before storing it.
Hi sir..need your help, i want to know why my radio cassette motor not running? Motor is new..no power at cable link to motor..
Switch, fusable resistor?
@@12voltvids canot find any problem on resistor..
The tarnish on silver is due to sulphur, contained in small amounts in your sweat...
And how would that get inside a switch?
@@12voltvids The evaporating sweat (and breadth!) actually releases sulphur as hydrogen sulphide gas. So it gets to anywhere along with other gases, air included. In the old days, when "silverware" was indeed silver (not the present stainless steel), cleaning the tarnish was a repeating task, even on spoons, forks and knives stored in drawers and possibly even wrapped in fine paper. My childhood dedicated spoon was in daily use and was scoured after every meal, but occasionally needed heavier cleaning. Other, inherited antique silver was hopefully stored away from daily handling, but tarnished the same, or even more.
@@InssiAjaton And why is toothpaste so efficient in cleaning silver?
@@worroSfOretsevraH Because it is tuned to have an "optimal" amount of abrasiveness. It used to have calcium carbonate. Then the famous Swedish weapons manufacturer Bofors ran a large number of tests and found evidence about its destructive effect to tooth enamel. That was used in their campaign to launch a new tooth paste witch softer plastic balls as the milder abrasive. Actually Bofors ran their tests against acrylic sheets. But anyway, now presumably all the toothpastes contain plastic microballs. Clean your teeth and whiten them. Also clean silver from the tarnish, while damaging silver less than the old calcium carbonate was doing, and still effective enough. Also fill the oceans with those plastic microballs...
I have one, buttons packed in so i added some tact switches, would like to return to original, anyone got a supplier for spares? UK?
U encouraged me to get the 12 lol
The 12 is a great meter.
👍👍
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