Rich, I wanted to say I've changed numerous fuel pumps in my 38 yrs but this one I had a extremely hard time reinstalling the retaining ring. My dad taught me to use a brass rod to tap the ring on/off this has always worked for me. I tried for a hour to reinstall this ring that way and no go. I watched your video used the largest channel locks I had and ring went on in seconds. Thanks for the help!
Hi Clay, What an AWESOME comment! Thank you SO much for your feedback, and kind words! I'm super thrilled that you had such great results with my idea! My best to you and yours! Peace Rich
Clay.. I put a fuel pump in this past weekend and had the exact same issue as you did. I too used a brass drift to avoid sparks. I just saw this great video today. I ended up using my old gasket in order to be able to lock down the ring. I'll remember the large channel lock trick for the future.
Great video! I'll watch this one again when I get ready to replace my wife's 2000 Suburban fuel pump. Seems like it's pretty much the same setup. Best video on the subject hands down!
Hey. I know you made this video years ago but i was intimidated to replace mine and your video made me ready and confident. By 2022, the connections didn't go as easy as video but still much easier than expected.
Hey! Was driving home from work when my Tahoe started losing engine power and began to stutter. Pulled over for a few minutes, restarted the vehicle and managed to make it home with only minor noticeable problems. The next night I left for work (with the intention of going straight to a mechanic after work the next morning) but didn't make it a mile before the engine died completely; as I was coasting to the side of the road as it started, I noticed the RPMs bobbing up and down pretty much in rhythm with the engine power loss. Anyways, had it towed home and going to make my first-ever attempt at changing a fuel pump. I really appreciate your video. Thanks for taking the time do it. The task is pretty daunting for novices like myself.
Thank You Rich ! My 2002 Z71 Sub has been down for a Year because of the fuel pump going out. I'm self employed and fund's have been tight this year. it is our weekend vehicle. I truly appreciate your advice and help. Sincerely, Doug
+jcnme2020 ooo Hi Doug, I know exactly what you mean...especially when a dealership wants $850.00 or more to replace a fuel pump. Please exercise extreme caution when you tackle the replacement of your pump; and I hope you find the tips in the video helpful! Peace!! Rich
Rich, awesome video! My father inlaw and I changed the feul pump on a 2000 chevy Silverado and it kicked our a##! I might be doing the repair on my wife's suburban, so I was getting a refresher. I was literally dreading the task. However, if I had your video at that time, I would have saved a LOT of pain and fustration. Especially the fuel line removal part. We were the guys scratching our heads. Again, thanks for the video!
Hi William. Thanks for the kind words! When I did this video, I had NO doubt that it would help other guys get the pump out of the tank! Thanks again!!
richwahne Update: The first fuel pump that I purchase ended up being a dead fuel pump. Very very frustrating. After I received the replacement pump shipped to me, I followed your video again and I managed to get my fuel pump installed within 3 hours. Very very nice! Definitely like the tip about reaching over the tank from the passenger side and unplugging the fuel lines save me more time than you can imagine! Unfortunately now I'm quicker at doing the fuel pump on the suburban now my father in law has got me doing the fuel pump on Mustang and Ford pickup truck too bad you don't have videos for those.
Thanks Rich. Very good job. Not sure yet if my fuel pump is gone, but if it is, I feel much better about replacing it, after watching your video. To answer your question: What the manufacturer was thinking about when they put the fuel pump in the tank. Money. Money is always the reason why people do things they know they should not. It's really sad when you think about it. Thanks again Tony
+ALove4Unity LOL...you are probably correct in your assumption on why the pump is in the tank. When you get around to changing your pump, be sure to use extreme caution; and I hope my suggestions make it much easier for you. Peace Rich
Thank you for the kind words! I know what you mean about 2 or 3 times...i'm on my 3rd pump, and it SUCKS. But the extra ground wire makes SO much sense....and I should make a video on how to do that too. Thanks for the idea! Be Safe!! Rich
Hi hotfodin - GREAT input and feedback. Yours, is exactly the type of activity that I was hoping to generate when I put this video up! Your contribution is awesome, and very welcome!! Glad to have you as part of this community.
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. I have an 04 escalade. the body style is the same as suburban you did. some important differences though- on the escalade you need to disconnect all the hose fittings BEFORE you drop the tank. one or more are alittle hard to get to, but they are ridgid plastic lines- if you drop the tank without disconnecting them they'd break off. Also it helps a great deal to remove the spare tire ! now there's lots of room under there. Thanks!
I am about to do this for the second time (third time if I included a chevy conversion van)...I am only halfway done with this video and know by experience that this gentleman has nailed the event obstacle (fuel line disconnect). I can now remember what took me so long before...taking time to un-mount the long fuel lines from the vehicle (completely un necessary). However , when you do this job the first time it is impossible to figure out the rubics cube mystery of those darn disconnect clamps. Thank you sir. I really like your style of explanation as well as saving me time today with this job I have put off for a week.
Hi M Campbell! I feel for you, and every other person that has to deal with the INSANITY of this maintenance item that goes bad ALL THE TIME! Thank you for your kind words, and I wish I could have been more revealing in my description, but I am glad that the video was/is helpful in your fuel pump replacement project. Be safe, and take your time. My best to you! Rich
Hi Rich, I justed wanted to thank you for doing this tutorial video. I have a 2006 suburban and the shop wanted to charge $930.00 for the fuel pump and labor when the pump only costs $311.00 I am going to attempt to replace it tommorow. Wish me luck. Thanks again
This was a very informative video, the job seems worse than it is until you go ahead and just do it. You also have one of the cleanest, most rust-free undercarriage of any suburban/tahoe I've seen. Believe me, when the lines, straps and fuel pump lock ring are rusted, a 2 hour job becomes 2 days
Hello Rob S; Thank you very much for your comment and observation. I think your comment is an EXCELLENT addition to the video, and I hope future DIY pump changers have a chance to read your comment and give your "rusted" situation some thought before they begin. Thanks again, and peace to you and yours!
Thanks for the vid! Have a 2001 Suburban, just changed my fuel pump with a Bosch. I couldn't get those fuel line clips to release near the front of the tank, so I let the rear part of the tank drop to the floor and it allowed me enough room to get to the fuel lines on the pump, those clips were also hard but I was able to twist them and then push with a screw driver to get them to release. Had to move the evaporator to get the tank off, lube that pump gasket too for easier install of ring. A+
Very helpful, thank you. Took me about 3.5 hours and I consider myself mechanically inclined (installed cam, valve springs, supercharger, headers, brake boosters, calipers, etc. myself). Getting the retention ring rotated on took me a good half hour with the channel lock. I would be very impressed if a shade tree me mechanic could knock this out in 2.5 hours their first time.
Nice! I did my Astro a couple of years ago and it was a pain in the backside! I just purchased a 2000 Chevy Tahoe last week with a fuel pump that need changing and this video will help me tons!
+86Chevymontecarlo - WOW...my first "in-tank" fuel pump was also an Astro (1998), and I know exactly what you mean. It WAS a pain! So when I had the wonderful opportunity to replace the fuel pump on the Suburban, I decided we need a video! LOL I'm pleased that it will help. Be safe!!! Peace
+richwahne I had a 2000 AWD. Loved it until the motor finally gave up the ghost. If I had a garage I would have kept it stored and just swapped out the motor. She was in great condition (minus the motor of course) However since I have moved and now in an apartment complex I had to sell... :-(
Hi rich. Like to say great video you made I followed your video step by step and it came out great. Just wanted to say thanks for great video you made I was nervous at first to do it , but by watching your video the task went smooth. You saved me lots of money I thought I was gonna have to take it to a local shop who quoted me 800 and change . I purchased an ac delcol pump thru the Internet for around 200 .Thanks again !!!!!!
Victor j Hi Victor j, Thank you so much for the kind words. The reason I made this video was to share the tricks that I learned, when I had to change the pump, with folks just like you! I'm thrilled that you had such awesome results!!! My best to you! Peace Rich
Thanks for the video I've never replaced a fuel pump before but you give good step to step directions. I'm confident i can do it while watching this video. Going to the junkyard tomorrow to get a gas pedal, rear brake light connector and a fuel pump. I bought a suburban for a really good deal and i took it to a mechanic I trust to diagnose it but I like to do things myself to save money. I always say I'll always try to do it myself first. And usually im able to lol thank goodness for TH-cam it has saved me and my vehicles a lot of money lol junkyards also save me a ton of money🤣
Rich this was a very imformative and outstanding video. I also have a 2004 Chevrolet Suburban 2WD w/ 5.3L V8 (non-flex fuel), and my check engine light is on and has started to blink. It also has a rough idle while in park and when starting off from 0-35 mph it has a sluggish take off. But anything faster or a quick acceleration and it moves with no hesitation or problem. One person suggested maybe its my fuel pump, another said its my injectors. The problem is that it cost alot of money to
Great video. Thanks for uploading, made the job lots easier. The "can do" attitude goes a long way. Some minor differences with the 2000 Suburban but not much. The major difference was that you apparently don't live in the North East. Living in Maine and after traveling thousands of miles on dirt roads for camping makes the 30 second fuel disconnect more like 30 minutes, and one of the strap bolt retaining nuts was so rusted that it just spun, had to drill it out. Thanks for video, it did help.
I believe he forgot to mention the vent line that is attached to the vapor canister near the front of the tank. You have to disconnect that b4 you drop the tank. Fyi
Thanks for the video, Rich. I know it's hard to cover all scenarios but one thing to make mention of the the vapor canister connection that needs to be carefully disconnected prior to dropping the front of that tank. So many people break the bottom nipple off of the canister when they drop the tank, and since the fuel pumps in these trucks are notorious for failing I would imagine a lot more people will. That's a $100 mistake at minimum not to mention the lost time and frustration. I'm speaking from my own experience as well. Keep up the good work!
Micah Howard Thank you SO much for pointing that vapor canister situation Micah! It is additional input like yours that makes this video just that much stronger, and more thorough! My best to you!!! Rich
Hi Benedict, Although not 100% sure, my bet would be that the similarities are very close between the 1999 and the 2003. I don't want to lead you astray with bad info, but using logic, it makes sense that the two vehicles' fuel systems would be very similar in design. Thanks for the kind words, and what ever you do...be safe! Thanks!
Hey Rich, Awsome video. Very helpful. Had an 02 suburban, changed the pump successfully, getting ready to do a 2000 Yukon xl. Thanks for the refresher. Donovan
In doing this repair on a truck with rusted metal hard lines I learned how to do this job with that issue and how NOT to do it. If the quick connects come off the sending unit easy, but don't come off the steel lines near the front of the tank easy, then what you want to do is remove the 2 black nylon fuel lines from the 2 clips holding them to the top of the fuel tank and leave them connected to the rusty steel lines. If the steel lines are rusted to the point the quick connects won't easily let go trying to force the quick connects off will destroy the steel lines...I learned this the hard way, and learned that the steel fuel lines are NLA, so I had to make new ones. Doorman makes a couple of 3/8" fuel steel fuel line parts that with a compression coupler and careful bending make a good substitute for the line between the filter and the nylon line, as well as the quick connect end of the 5/16" return line. The return line is likely to be harder to replace because finding a rust free section to use a compression coupler on may require getting fairly close to the engine. I guess the one benefit of all the extra work screwing up the steel lines caused, is that there's less rusty fuel line to fail in the future.
Had the same black vapor canister on my 02 flex fuel sub...one of the small tubes broke off of the canister so I used super glue on it and it seems to be working fine...probably should take the vapor canister down first to remove the lines before dropping the tank..overall even with that problem took me about three hours and I purchased a new ac deco pump online for $180 shipped..thanks for the video
Great video. I just did this to my 2003 suburban. One thing I would add is to unbolt the drive shaft from the rear of the vehicle. That allowed me to swing it over out of the way and gave me some more room to work with.
Hi Ripe One, Sorry it took me so long to get back to you...I've had some issues at work. What a great suggestion! Although I did not move the drive shaft, I can see how it would make the job easier. Thanks for the kind words, and the feedback. Rich
yep exactly what u said I checked the fuses and the spark they were good took the fuel pump back out had it checked and it was defected brand new out the box I even checked the security and It was fine thank you had the new pump tested before installing came out working perfectly
After all the MILLIONS of in-tank fuel pumps that have been manufactured, you'd think they wouldn't be selling us defective pumps right out of the box. Thank you VERY MUCH for sharing your story. Glad to hear you are up and running again.
Thanks for the video the little plastic clips gave me the most problems while dropping the tank they didn't want to flex in to release so i pushed in the little tabs with a small flathead to release them. the 2 bolts holding the straps in place were a piece of cake with the impact. And thank god i only had 2 gallons in teh tank when the pump went out :D
Thanks for the tip about dropping the back of the tank first, I had spend all day trying to release the lines at the front of the tank, got one off but never could get my hand in where I could release the other, between the way it was orientated, the tight fit and a steel plate in the way I could get to one tab but not the other. I went inside and found your video, then went out and dropped the rear of the tank, detached the lines no problem. I don't think you mentioned but there is a clip holding the lines in place that has to release after disconnecting the lines as well. Great job.
Hi Robert, You described the EXACT reason why I put the video together, and I am thrilled that it helped you get the job done. Thank you for the kind words and feedback! Peace Rich
Great video, I have the 6.0L so the fuel lines are a bit different, but your video was great!!! Thank you for the service! Made the task sooooo much easier!!!
Hi Douglas Brown, Thank you for the kind words, and I'm thrilled to hear that you got some info that made your pump swap a bit easier. Maybe you could share one or two tips that that you found on your 6.0L, that were different? Thanks again!! Peace! Rich
Thanks for the info.... I was looking at having the pump replaced, but like you mention labor cost. You make it look so easy, and I have most of the tooling (don't have a 15mm socket). Going to give a try, and will let you know how it goes. You have a Very Well constructed Video, and detailed very well. thanks for your time and effort.
Hi Rich!!!! Today my fuel pump of my 2003 suburban Brock down .I was looking some videos and I found yours 👍you explain correctly bro nice I liked.take good care God bless you👍🙏 by Georgeg
thanks for the info and replying to my question. My husband said that 13 years of rust and having never replaced the fuel pump (230,000miles) has made the bolts impossible for him to get off. SO.... guess that means it goes to the dealer and I hope a good price is in the cards.
Based on my experience, these in-tank pumps fail no matter how much fuel is in the tank. As a matter of fact, you would not believe the number of pumps are bad right out of the box - before they were ever installed. Some will tell you that the pump will last longer with more fuel in the tank, to keep the pump "cool." Again, I have heard from hundreds of people that had a pump go bad, and there is no common denominator related to the volume of fuel in the tank. They just fail! Here's some good news...the last time my pump failed in my 1998 Astro (368,730 miles as of 12/04/2016), I added an enhanced ground from the pump to the frame rail - and that pump has now lasted almost 100,000 miles. Try enhancing the ground next time, and see if you don't get a MUCH longer-lasting pump. Peace!
Thanks for the kind words MrDaggs1 - believe or not, just from doing. My philosophy is that if somebody is going to fix that "whatever", that somebody will have a body temp of about 98.6....same as our (you and I) body temps. I also have a fairly extensive background in automotive type stuff...but it's my "can do" attitude that takes me forward. Thanks for moving forward with me! Peace Rich
Thanks for the video, it was a good guide. I just replaced the fuel pump in my 2003 avalanche last night and really didn't even have to take the fuel tank out completely. I dropped the rear of the tank until it was on the ground and then raised the drivers side of the truck up in the air quite a ways and set a couple more jack stands under it. Then I had pretty good access to the fuel pump so I took the fuel lines off the front of the tank but it was a lot easier to do that from the drivers side. Then I slide the tank back but it appears the front of the fuel tank is a little difficult to re-position to take it out completely and get it off the cross member it was resting on and a part of the frame that is needs to get around, so I just stopped trying to take it out any further. At that point I had really good access to the fuel pump and got it done. Total time was about an hour and fourty five minutes start to finish.
Hi Rich I have a 03 Yukon Denali. I hear a loud humming sound coming from what appears to be the vapor canister behind the drivers side rear wheel. Do you know what I can do to fix the humming problem?
Thanks this video was really helpful this was my first time replacing the gas pump and you video really help me it takes me about eight hours but i did and i save 800 dls that the mechanic wants to charge me
Hi Jorge, Thank you so much for watching, and I'm SUPER pleased that you found the video helpful! And to save $800.00...AWESOME! Way to go!!! Be safe!! Rich
Thank you for the kind words. When I put this video together, I had NO idea it would have such a positive impact on so many other shade-tree mechanics. Be Safe!! Rich
Rich, Thank you what an informative video. It assisted me greatly in my quest to figure out how to change my 03 Burb fuel pump. Ultimately I discovered a waaaayyyy easier process to do the change. I don't mean to hijack your channel but I feel like people will be very thankful I did. I discovered another old old video a guy had posted, and now I can't find it again, where he showed how to do it without dropping the tank. It was an hour and I was done. So I'm Markie Mark and I'm calling my video "2003-12 GM SUV Fuel Pump Change 1 Hour"
I'm about to do this myself. currently stranded in a parking lot. Wish me luck. This was very informative. This will be the 3rd pump for this truck. Last time it took pep boys 9 hours and $1000 for them to figure it out. Thank you for the video!!
+William Houser It was my pleasure! Side note...if you can figure out a way to enhance the ground from the new pump to the frame of the truck, you might lengthen the life of the pump. I enhanced the ground on a fuel pump replacement on a 1998 Astro, and haven't had a problem with the pump since that last replacement. Be safe!!!!
I need to replace the fuel pump on our 2000 Yukon. Since I only want to do this once! Any recommendations on fuel pump brands? Also hats off on the wheel chocks. The handle will make them easy to store and not get lost.
Hi fatherbob48, I totally agree with your assessment of not wanting to lose a fuel pump while out on the road. I am in the process of finishing my research on the additional ground wire to the fuel pump, and as soon as I am finished, I'll post a video on my site. Thanks for the suggestion, and be sure to stay safe! How-to With Rich
Hi Nicolas. I hope my tricks, along with some of the awesome input and suggestions from other viewers, are all helpful for you. Be super careful! Peace!!
Hi Rich, I just replaced the fuel pump on my 2000 yukon. Now the gas gauge isnt working.. is there some way of rebooting this also the low fuel light is on. I appreciate your help..thanks, Chino
Hi Rich, Great video. Thank you for the help. I am in the process of removing the tank in my '02 Chevy Suburban and I have a problem, one of the front fuel line clips has broken compression tabs. Any ideas on how to release the fitting? Thank you for any help that you may give.
Thank you very much. I owe so much ! You dont know how much this helped me , great video and explanation . The best i have seen on this fuel pump replacement topic . My hat off to you.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
gilberto lopez Thank you very much for the kind words!! I'm thrilled that I was able to share information that was so helpful for you. My best to you!! Peace Rich
Hi Jerry - Thank you! Since the Suburban was the same from 2000 up to 2006, I presume that you will find the fuel pump replacement procedure to be very similar. Be super safe, and be sure to check your fuel pump relay, fuel pump fuse, and fuel filter - just to make sure. Best of luck to you! Peace Rich
Hi Rich! Thanks for this video. Im planning to do this procedure on my next weekend on my Ford Expedition 03. Is there any loop holes or any tricks besides ur this video or is the same proces?
Hi Rich, love your videos. I need your help. I've got an 01 Suburban 2500 4x4. The fuel gauge kept acting funny, dropping to E and back to the fuel level. I was SURE it was the sending unit. I replaced it after the needle finally stuck on E, but that did not fix it. HELP!!!!!!
Hi Jonnyboy Nutcracker, Ah the ole fuel gauge stuck on E issue. In almost every situation where this happens, you are correct, it's the sending unit. Occasionally it's a bad gauge in the dash, and once in a great while it's a bad ground or wiring issue from the tank to the dash. The easiest of those three (at this point) is to disconnect the fuel gauge and check the current at the connections. You'll need to find out what the current should be, and then simply hook the wires that go to the gauge, to a volt/ohm meter and see what the current reading should be (at full for example). If the current it correct, then it's a bad gauge, if the current is non-existent or extremely low, the next step would be to check the wiring to make sure there are no breaks or bad grounds. Here's the bad news, most of the time, its actually a bad sending unit. I KNOW! A brand new pump and sending unit is BAD. Yep, it happens all the time, and you may have gotten a bad one right out of the box. Of the hundreds of comments on this video, I bet 10% are related to bad pumps right out of the box. SO frustrating. Hope these ideas help you locate your issue. Thank you for commenting, and please let us know what you find. Peace!! Rich
Thank you for reaching out to me, but I have to apologize that I don't have any input on that part of the project. I always went to my local Advance Auto Parts for fuel pumps and had great luck...as long as you have the VIN for the rig, they should be able to help. My best to you, and be safe!!
Hi Eugene, Sorry it took me so long to get back to you...I've had some issues at work. LOL...I'm thrilled to hear that you weren't scared. Thanks for the kind words, and the feedback. Rich
Rich I have a Chevy tahoe Z71 2004. looks like the tank is leaking from the top. I think is the fuel pump oring . any idea where i can found the orings clips. please advise i like to heard your ideas . thanks Herberth
Hi Herberth, WOW....my first guess would be from a local auto dismantler or wrecking yard - IF you can't get the parts you need from a local dealer. Another idea might be to purchase a nice used tank from a wrecking yard on eBay? That is a odd one, and I wish I had better advice. Try those two ideas, and use EXTREME caution replacing those parts on the top of the fuel tank! Peace Rich
any help is appreciated. I have an 2002,suburban and when the fuel gauge is at the quarter mark it starts stalling. does this mean the fuel filter is bad????
+Shaun Ranuro - Hi Shaun, My first guess would be a bad fuel pump. If you are at a 1/4 tank or full, if the pump is working properly the fuel filter would not know the difference with the volume in the tank - but the pump certainly would. From my experience, pumps that fail, many times start to go bad (and are many time very noticeable) when the fuel tank has a 1/4 tank or less fuel in it - and lots of people have experienced this too. I'm not a gambling man, but if I were, based on your description I'd bet that the pump is starting to fail. Unless any other reader has another point of view, the only logical starting point is the common denominator - and that would not be the fuel filter (in my humble opinion). I have replaced fuel filters on many rigs were we were HOPING it was the filter and not the pump...and every time I was wrong. Thank you for sharing your situation - let us know what you discover. Ps...don't forget to replace the fuel filter relay and the fuel filter fuse - and yes, there should be one of each in your Sub Peace
I like this how-to. I noticed you said this was for a non-flex suburban. Do you know how different this job would be for a flex-fuel pump? I would guess it's pretty close. I have to do one of these soon as mine is failing.
Hi. I'm in the middle of the thing. gotta put the tank back in place. Here are a few info from my experience. First, you'll need to lift the rear of the truck. place jack under the rear diff and put a pair of jackstand on each side, you have a flat part where the rear shock ends. i've put my jackstand there. I've rised it until i have 2-3 inches of room under the tires. This way it will be very confortable to work under unless you're a body builder kind of mechanic. ;) The hoses coming from the filler neck are really hard to remove. and they are unavailable for sale over the internet or even off line. had to use a big flat screwdriver to pry it and step by step put it out of the metal neck it's on. Since my truck is in the underground parking lot of the building, i've put a plastic bag around the hoses & strapped them with a rubber band so it won't smell gasoline around your truck. Put a jack under the tank, remove the straps and let it go down gently. The hoses I was talking about may not let you lower the tank. Just fold them. Next step is as shown in the video : Crawl under from the passenger side. I had enough headroom to lay on my side. It's easier to see what's waiting for you. You may use a gopro that broadcast movie on your cell phone either. The square plug has a red retainer that willl block you from removing the plug from its socket. Just pull it. Remove both plugs and the fuel lines. Go on the driver side and pull the tank. You may have to remove more wires and hoses. I went out to buy a groove joint pliers to remove the lock ring. it was rusty as hell. I strongly suggest you replace it with a new one, and put a nice amount of grease on it before you got the tank back in place. Don't forget to use a vaccum cleaner to remove all dusty sh.ts and small gravels that lies around your pump. Swap the pump. be aware the old pump still has some gas inside. Pour it back to the tank. Put the new pump in place put the metal ringback and tighten it. That's where I am now. Going down the basement to rise the tank back in place. Wish me luck ! :) EDIT: the new pump have a 4x1 socket instead of the 2x2 socket from factory. My pump was sold with a 4x1 plug and 3-4 inches of wires and I should have my harness cut to solder it instead of the 2x2 OEM plug. Since I'm not in the mood to solder near a tank of gas, I've bought over ebay a small cable with a 2x2 socket at one end that will fit you OEM harness, and a 4x1 plug that will fit the new pump socket at the other end. Works perfectly.
All I can say is...WOW! Awesome input from Tom! Thanks again Tom, and thanks for such an AWESOME contribution to others with this HORRIBLE in-tank pump situation. Peace and Abundant Blessings Rich
Thank you Rich. I just read what I wrote and did not said much more than you already did in your video. To complete from my experience, i'll say the install is reverse of the removal. After putting the new pump in place, you'll be eager to test it. Before you do, put the front end of the tank back on the crossmember and then replug the fuel line and electrical connectors back together. Start your engine. Enjoy its nice sound. If you reconnect your lines before putting the tank back as i said, you'll see the lines are too short to pull the tank back enough so the front part will be in position to go back to the cross member. And disconnecting them can be a pita. The rest is easy : rise the tank, attach both straps, and don't forget to reconnect the filling hoses or you could have a very unpleasant surprise at the gas station next refuelling. ;-) Few tips : The groove joint plier (how do you named it in your video? i did not understand) is a must have. Without it, it will be next to impossible to remove the locking ring. For overseas DIYers like me (I'm from France, this may explain my goofy english), be sure to buy parts before you start working on it : a new locking ring is not a luxury. Also buy a pair of fuel line retainers, those you need to transfer from the old pump to the new one. One of mine was half broken. Thanks Rich for the video and the tips. If this Suburban is still yours, do not hesitate to make new video about it. Best regards.
Hey Rich, great video. I have an 03 Suburban with high mileage and was wondering, instead of dropping the tank, could I cut an access hole through the cargo floor, then pulling the pump out through the hole? This seems like it would knock off about 1.5 to 2 hours. I would just need to know where to cut the hole.
Hi Kevin, You know, that is actually a very interesting idea! And too be honest, I even thought about doing the exact same thing with my son's Suburban; but I decided not to take that route. I don't like the idea of cutting a hole in the floor pan of the truck right above the fuel tank; for all the obvious reasons. And then trying to figure out how to cover the hole with some sort of a "door" that you would be able to seal up tight - I think you might be happier just going the other route. In my humble opinion, IF General Motors (or any other manufacturer for that matter) REALLY cared about ease of service, they would have designed that "door" for us...but NOPE! They chose the more expensive route. Oh well. If you decide to tackle this adventure, PLEASE come back and post your comments on how it went. Be SAFE!!! Thanks & Peace Rich
richwahne Hi Rich, thanks for the great video. Just like Kevin, I am also interested in creating a hatch door above the tank and will take on the adventure. Based on your work, do you think a 15 inch x 15 hole above the tank would be suffice for getting the new pump in and dealing with all connections?
***** Hi Timothy, I'm just shooting from the hip here, but based on your idea - I'd say that a 15" x 15" hole cut in the floor (directly above the fuel pump in the tank) should be large enough. BUT - please keep in mind that the pump doesn't just slide straight into the hole in the tank. Due to the fact that the fuel sensor is hanging off the side of the pump, the pump needs to go in on an angle; and that is where my question would start. IF the pump dropped straight in and came straight out, 15" x 15" would be sufficient - but due to the maneuvering necessary, you may find that it's not a big enough opening. Then comes the question about sealing that hole back up to keep the weather and other unwanted elements out of your rig. I wish I could give you the all-clear signal, but I just don't know if it would work. Thanks for your addition to the thread...and whatever you wind up doing - use EXTREME caution!!! Peace! Rich
Rich, thanks a bunch. You can save some time and effort if you use ramps (easy 8" lift) instead of a jack. Went pretty smooth except on one of the 2 fuel connectors up front, Chevy put one of those QUICK CONNECTs that need that special tool. Thankfully I had one for the fuel filter (too long for the fuel filter but it came in handy nonetheless). Thanks again!
+Mary Tafoya Hi Mary, Thanks for the note. There have been times that those darned ramps get in the way, so I just got used to using the jack stands; but I appreciate the thought and in the right situation ramps are AWESOME!! Glad you liked my video, and I'm super happy you got all your fuel issues handled! Peace to you and yours! Rich
@marcov935 -- Well I must say that your question put a smile on my face. My first thought was, hum along with the tune...lol. (sorry) I would say that one of the baffles in the canister has more than likely broken, and that broken piece is vibrating inside the canister. If I were you, I think I would just pick up another canister, and replace the old one. That should take care of the humming inside...if it doesn't...learn the tune and hum along. (I'm sorry...I had to! lol) Thanks!!! Rich
I did this today and since I am in North Dakota working in the oil fields I did not have a Jack so I just used an ANCRA Motorcycle strap under the back of the tank and slowly dropped the tank. Took my 2 hours and 13 minutes and only drank 11 Coors Lights out of the 20 pack. The electrical connector of course broke but the pump I bought even had an extra connector in the box. Total cost with Beer was $267.12. WHAT A DEAL. Dealer up here cost $1456.00 including the pump, What a joke. Great Video
Great info, only things I would add would be to disconnect the negative battery terminal before you begin, that way you don't need to worry about electrical system or wires (especially near gas fumes). Also, after the pump is installed and you are ready to crank, turn the truck on but not the engine (one click of the key). Then turn it off. Repeat this several times. This will prime the pump before starting the engine and will keep the pump from failing prematurely. Good luck!
Hi James, It certainly sounds like you could have a fuel pump going bad. But you might also have a plugged fuel filter. I always recommend changing the filter first, just to make sure (both time and cost are MUCH less), and if that doesn't take care of the problem, then you can tackle the pump itself. Best of luck to you, and whichever way you proceed...use extreme safety measures! Peace! Rich
Hey Rich. Thanks for the video. I cannot get one of the compression clips on the front lines off. The tabs are broken off. I have spent almost 2 hours wrestling with it trying small screwdrivers, short nails, etc trying to push that tab in. It won't budge. I'm out of ideas and patience. Any ideas for me?
Hi Anna, From what I can tell from your description, the clip(s) that you are trying to release is still under a lot of pressure from the fuel line pulling on it (as if you were trying to pull the fuel line off without releasing the clip). IF you can push the fuel line toward the clip (to release the pressure on the clip), then close the tabs on the clip, that might help. As a back up, I would call your local dealer and see if they sell those clips, pick up a few of them, break the existing clips off (very carefully) and replace them with new clips. I sure hope either of those ideas work? My best to you, and be sure to use EXTREME caution working with those fuel lines!!!! Peace Rich
Actually this was a very good video and I am sure reasonalbly complete for a 2003 Suburb. Rich did a good job as it was very helpful to me to do this job safely. (I like your intro bit too.) I am working on a 2002 Suburb and found some differences as Chris and Eli did. I did encounter the vapor canister and could see the ONE line connection at the front of the tank and summarily disconnected it before lowering (no problem). Also, I had the unhappy fortune to find one of the fuel line connections at the front of the tank was not the easy finger pinch type (as all others were). Instead it was one of those odd types that required the specialslip-over the steel line tool so that a circular extension would slide under the lip of the connector to spread the clip device apart and release the connector. (I am curious if anyone else had this odd ball connector.) So all-in-all I appreciate the information presnted here. In fact, this was the best one out of about a half-dozen videos I reviewed. Thanks again, Rich.
Jack A C --- AWESOME addition!!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to add your findings. It is a real pleasure to have folks like you adding to the info! Peace!! Rich
Hi Rich, I have a 2003 chevy Tahoe. The fuel gauge has started going up and down regardless of the fuel level, even when full. I like your video of the tank removal and pump replacement. Do you think if I replace the whole pump assembly it will solve my problem? Or could it be something else?
Hey Rich, I liked your how to video and am looking into taking on the fuel pump in my 2007 Suburban. It is a 1500 2WD Flex Fuel. Just wondering if you knew of any major changes from the 2003 your video featured and my 2007? Thanks, EJ
Thanks for the video I was wondering what's the best brand fuel pump to replace my current failing fuel pump? Should I do AC Delco or would I would be ok with a cheaper aftermarket pump? My Suburban loses power at 1/4 of a tank an it's starting to stall out at a fuel tank.
If I were you, I would use the AC/Delco due to the brand name and ability to get a replacement if it fails during the warranty period. One other point to consider, be sure to enhance the ground. These in-tank pumps have HORRIBLE grounding, which is a major reason they fail. Find the ground circuit in the wiring (make sure it's the ground circuit) and enhance it by running a separate wire to the frame rail of the rig. Based on my own personal experience, this will make the pump last a LOT longer. Be SUPER careful, and best of luck to you.
Greetings. I am trying to put the plate back on top of the new fuel pump. I'm having a tough time because when I turn it it won't turn and lock so I hammer it and the vibration makes it pop out. Is the channel lock the only two that will work for putting the plate back on securely?
Hi Erick, Yes...the channel lock was the tool that worked best for me. It is a bit of a tussle getting that plate back on the tank, but I can be done. You might try a bit of lubricant on the round seal...that might make the difference. Thanks for the comment! Rich
Hey Rich, Thank you so much for your video. My fuel pump on my 2003 Yukon Denali went out about 1mth. ago so I've been watching many videos on replacing the pump. I've been reading comments that people have had to replace there pumps 2 or 3 times. This I don't need. So when do you think you'll be posting a video on installing additional grounding for the pump?
Hi pquin 77 Sorry it took me so long to get back to you...I've had some issues at work. You know, there was a time that I would have said not to cut a hole...but now that I have cut a hole in the floor of a 1998 Astro (to replace the SIXTH pump), I'd say HECK YES!!! Just be SUPER CAREFUL!! Thanks for shooting the question to me, and again - sorry for the delay in responding. Rich
Just a quick question Im having issues getting the fuel line clips to compress due to rust any suggestions. Got the tank down and ready but the lines wont come loose.
@dcwst1 GREAT question! I highly recommend stopping in to a local auto parts store and purchasing the right sizes of "Fuel Line Wrenches" (probably two different sizes - one for the fixed nut on each end of the filter, and a larger size for the nut on the fuel line). Quite simply they are box wrenches with a slot cut out for the fuel line. They will make this part of the job extremely easy and MUCH safer. Best of luck to you!!
Hi Rich! First off, thank you for making this video. I have a 2002 Avalanche with 100k and I need to change the fuel pressure sender so I might as well change the whole pump since I don't think can sneak the sensor in without removing the tank. My question is, did you have to remove any EVAP lines that connect to the tank or were you able to leave connected? Thanks for any help, Frank
Rich, I have a 2004 chevy suburban,5.3, flex fuel, and it seems that the charcoal filter will be in the way you didn't mention it in your video. Also, the problem isn't the fuel pump, a pack rat got on top of my gas tank and bit the fuel gauge wire through. Any shortcuts to repairin the wire at the fuel pump. Kenny
Hi Kent, OH NO!!! The dreaded pack rat. Sorry, I don't have any shortcuts for that function. When the wire is damaged, I always replace the damaged wire with a new plug that comes with about 7" of wire...and if necessary I replace the damaged wire all the way up to the frame rail. Here's the bad news...either way the tank usually has to come out of the rig. BEST of luck to you, and THANK YOU for your comment! Peace Rich
Hi Brian, Yes this was a 2WD. My research shows the tank comes out the same in either the 2 or 4WD models. If you have the back of the tank down on the ground, you should be able to reach up over the top of the tank, on the driver's side, near the front of the tank and get to the fuel line connections. I know exactly what you mean that they are "basically inaccessible" as I thought the EXACT same thing when I got the tank down. Maybe my arms are longer than yours (LOL...)? My best to you!
Seems pretty straightforward. I ve had some fuel pump issues intermittently. Recently changed the canister and all solenoids. Do you recommend changing the fuel filter along with the pump? Again great video!
Hi Jeff B, - Thank you for the kind words, and you posed a Great question! If I were you, I would change the fuel filter too...just to be sure. However, each time I've gone to the trouble of changing the filter, I was disappointed with the results; as in, no change at all. Every time it turned out to be the darned pump, inside the tank. Whatever you decide, please be SAFE SAFE SAFE!! Peace!! Rich
@kirktowns The filler hose was a bit tricky, but don't let it get the best of you. After you remove the hose clamps from either end of the filler hose, grab hold of it and turn it to break it loose from the tank and the tube coming down from the filler. Once it turns freely, twist and pull (and it might be tough) on the end going into the tank and it will come off. Once you get that end off you are home free. Just pull hard and you will win. Best of luck. Thanks!
Hey man. There is one additional ocnnection that is keeping me from being able to drop the tank out. I think it is thconnecting to the evaporative canister which is a little box mounted directly next to the gas tank toward the front of the car. Any idea of to get this off? I unmounted the box to try and give myself a little extra room but cannot figure out how to remove the connection.
+Joseph Kiloh - Hey Joseph...I know that the connections on the evap canister were the exact same connection as the connections on the fuel lines into and out of the pump. They are very tricky! IF You can push the hose into the connection (to reduce to pressure on the clip tongs) and close those tongs, you should be able to get that evap can out. I'm SO sorry I'm not more help with your question, but those clips are the WORST - especially if you can't push the line towards the canister and squeeze the tongs at the same time, to release the clip. My best to you!
hey rich, i want to know the position of the fuel tank , i mean the filter side will kept upward or downward.. whole pump is in submerged condition ryt..
I'm not sure I understand your question completely. The entire pump assembly with the filter attached, drops in through a hole in the top of the tank, and the filter/pump is submerged when the tank is filled with fuel. I hope that is close to what you are looking for?
HI,Rich. I'm going to change the fuel pump and regulator in my 2003dodge Ram2500 5.7L. What's the best way to do this? Also The reason I'm Replacing the fuel pump and regulator is because I have no horse power when going up a hill,almost like if gas is not being pump as I accelerate.I have check my injentors and found that one of them was bad so I replace it,then I check my Fuel pressure and it was at 50 Psi, even if I accelerate it wouldn't move from 50 Psi. 'm I heading in the right direction?
Rich, I wanted to say I've changed numerous fuel pumps in my 38 yrs but this one I had a extremely hard time reinstalling the retaining ring. My dad taught me to use a brass rod to tap the ring on/off this has always worked for me. I tried for a hour to reinstall this ring that way and no go. I watched your video used the largest channel locks I had and ring went on in seconds. Thanks for the help!
Hi Clay, What an AWESOME comment! Thank you SO much for your feedback, and kind words! I'm super thrilled that you had such great results with my idea! My best to you and yours!
Peace
Rich
Clay.. I put a fuel pump in this past weekend and had the exact same issue as you did. I too used a brass drift to avoid sparks. I just saw this great video today. I ended up using my old gasket in order to be able to lock down the ring. I'll remember the large channel lock trick for the future.
Great video! I'll watch this one again when I get ready to replace my wife's 2000 Suburban fuel pump. Seems like it's pretty much the same setup. Best video on the subject hands down!
Hey. I know you made this video years ago but i was intimidated to replace mine and your video made me ready and confident. By 2022, the connections didn't go as easy as video but still much easier than expected.
Thank you for the kind words!! I thrilled that my video made your pump exchange a bit less stressful! Peace!
Hey! Was driving home from work when my Tahoe started losing engine power and began to stutter. Pulled over for a few minutes, restarted the vehicle and managed to make it home with only minor noticeable problems.
The next night I left for work (with the intention of going straight to a mechanic after work the next morning) but didn't make it a mile before the engine died completely; as I was coasting to the side of the road as it started, I noticed the RPMs bobbing up and down pretty much in rhythm with the engine power loss.
Anyways, had it towed home and going to make my first-ever attempt at changing a fuel pump. I really appreciate your video. Thanks for taking the time do it. The task is pretty daunting for novices like myself.
Thank You Rich !
My 2002 Z71 Sub has been down for a Year because of the fuel pump going out.
I'm self employed and fund's have been tight this year.
it is our weekend vehicle.
I truly appreciate your advice and help. Sincerely, Doug
+jcnme2020 ooo Hi Doug, I know exactly what you mean...especially when a dealership wants $850.00 or more to replace a fuel pump. Please exercise extreme caution when you tackle the replacement of your pump; and I hope you find the tips in the video helpful! Peace!! Rich
Thank You Sir !
My neighbor is a mechanic and he will be helping me out with the swap.
Rich, awesome video! My father inlaw and I changed the feul pump on a 2000 chevy Silverado and it kicked our a##! I might be doing the repair on my wife's suburban, so I was getting a refresher. I was literally dreading the task. However, if I had your video at that time, I would have saved a LOT of pain and fustration. Especially the fuel line removal part. We were the guys scratching our heads. Again, thanks for the video!
Hi William. Thanks for the kind words! When I did this video, I had NO doubt that it would help other guys get the pump out of the tank! Thanks again!!
richwahne
Update: The first fuel pump that I purchase ended up being a dead fuel pump. Very very frustrating. After I received the replacement pump shipped to me, I followed your video again and I managed to get my fuel pump installed within 3 hours. Very very nice! Definitely like the tip about reaching over the tank from the passenger side and unplugging the fuel lines save me more time than you can imagine! Unfortunately now I'm quicker at doing the fuel pump on the suburban now my father in law has got me doing the fuel pump on Mustang and Ford pickup truck too bad you don't have videos for those.
William Dennis Totally my pleasure! Thank you for the kind words! I am thrilled that all turned out well for you.
Peace
Rich
Thanks Rich. Very good job. Not sure yet if my fuel pump is gone, but if it is, I feel much better about replacing it, after watching your video.
To answer your question: What the manufacturer was thinking about when they put the fuel pump in the tank. Money. Money is always the reason why people do things they know they should not. It's really sad when you think about it.
Thanks again
Tony
+ALove4Unity LOL...you are probably correct in your assumption on why the pump is in the tank. When you get around to changing your pump, be sure to use extreme caution; and I hope my suggestions make it much easier for you. Peace
Rich
Thank you for the kind words! I know what you mean about 2 or 3 times...i'm on my 3rd pump, and it SUCKS. But the extra ground wire makes SO much sense....and I should make a video on how to do that too. Thanks for the idea!
Be Safe!!
Rich
Hi hotfodin - GREAT input and feedback. Yours, is exactly the type of activity that I was hoping to generate when I put this video up! Your contribution is awesome, and very welcome!! Glad to have you as part of this community.
It was my pleasure to do that video! I am super pleased to hear that it made a difference for you! Way to go!!!
Rich
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. I have an 04 escalade. the body style is the same as suburban you did. some important differences though- on the escalade you need to disconnect all the hose fittings BEFORE you drop the tank. one or more are alittle hard to get to, but they are ridgid plastic lines- if you drop the tank without disconnecting them they'd break off. Also it helps a great deal to remove the spare tire ! now there's lots of room under there. Thanks!
I am about to do this for the second time (third time if I included a chevy conversion van)...I am only halfway done with this video and know by experience that this gentleman has nailed the event obstacle (fuel line disconnect). I can now remember what took me so long before...taking time to un-mount the long fuel lines from the vehicle (completely un necessary). However , when you do this job the first time it is impossible to figure out the rubics cube mystery of those darn disconnect clamps.
Thank you sir. I really like your style of explanation as well as saving me time today with this job I have put off for a week.
Hi M Campbell! I feel for you, and every other person that has to deal with the INSANITY of this maintenance item that goes bad ALL THE TIME! Thank you for your kind words, and I wish I could have been more revealing in my description, but I am glad that the video was/is helpful in your fuel pump replacement project. Be safe, and take your time. My best to you! Rich
Hi Rich, I justed wanted to thank you for doing this tutorial video. I have a 2006 suburban and the shop wanted to charge $930.00 for the fuel pump and labor when the pump only costs $311.00 I am going to attempt to replace it tommorow. Wish me luck. Thanks again
This was a very informative video, the job seems worse than it is until you go ahead and just do it. You also have one of the cleanest, most rust-free undercarriage of any suburban/tahoe I've seen. Believe me, when the lines, straps and fuel pump lock ring are rusted, a 2 hour job becomes 2 days
Hello Rob S; Thank you very much for your comment and observation. I think your comment is an EXCELLENT addition to the video, and I hope future DIY pump changers have a chance to read your comment and give your "rusted" situation some thought before they begin. Thanks again, and peace to you and yours!
Thanks for the vid! Have a 2001 Suburban, just changed my fuel pump with a Bosch. I couldn't get those fuel line clips to release near the front of the tank, so I let the rear part of the tank drop to the floor and it allowed me enough room to get to the fuel lines on the pump, those clips were also hard but I was able to twist them and then push with a screw driver to get them to release. Had to move the evaporator to get the tank off, lube that pump gasket too for easier install of ring. A+
Very helpful, thank you. Took me about 3.5 hours and I consider myself mechanically inclined (installed cam, valve springs, supercharger, headers, brake boosters, calipers, etc. myself). Getting the retention ring rotated on took me a good half hour with the channel lock. I would be very impressed if a shade tree me mechanic could knock this out in 2.5 hours their first time.
Nice! I did my Astro a couple of years ago and it was a pain in the backside! I just purchased a 2000 Chevy Tahoe last week with a fuel pump that need changing and this video will help me tons!
+86Chevymontecarlo - WOW...my first "in-tank" fuel pump was also an Astro (1998), and I know exactly what you mean. It WAS a pain! So when I had the wonderful opportunity to replace the fuel pump on the Suburban, I decided we need a video! LOL I'm pleased that it will help. Be safe!!! Peace
+richwahne I had a 2000 AWD. Loved it until the motor finally gave up the ghost. If I had a garage I would have kept it stored and just swapped out the motor. She was in great condition (minus the motor of course) However since I have moved and now in an apartment complex I had to sell... :-(
Hi rich. Like to say great video you made I followed your video step by step and it came out great. Just wanted to say thanks for great video you made I was nervous at first to do it , but by watching your video the task went smooth. You saved me lots of money I thought I was gonna have to take it to a local shop who quoted me 800 and change . I purchased an ac delcol pump thru the Internet for around 200 .Thanks again !!!!!!
Victor j Hi Victor j, Thank you so much for the kind words. The reason I made this video was to share the tricks that I learned, when I had to change the pump, with folks just like you! I'm thrilled that you had such awesome results!!!
My best to you!
Peace
Rich
Thanks for the video I've never replaced a fuel pump before but you give good step to step directions. I'm confident i can do it while watching this video. Going to the junkyard tomorrow to get a gas pedal, rear brake light connector and a fuel pump. I bought a suburban for a really good deal and i took it to a mechanic I trust to diagnose it but I like to do things myself to save money. I always say I'll always try to do it myself first. And usually im able to lol thank goodness for TH-cam it has saved me and my vehicles a lot of money lol junkyards also save me a ton of money🤣
Thank you for the kind words! Be safe, and I hope all goes well for you!! Peace
Rich this was a very imformative and outstanding video. I also have a 2004 Chevrolet Suburban 2WD w/ 5.3L V8 (non-flex fuel), and my check engine light is on and has started to blink. It also has a rough idle while in park and when starting off from 0-35 mph it has a sluggish take off. But anything faster or a quick acceleration and it moves with no hesitation or problem. One person suggested maybe its my fuel pump, another said its my injectors. The problem is that it cost alot of money to
Great video. Thanks for uploading, made the job lots easier. The "can do" attitude goes a long way. Some minor differences with the 2000 Suburban but not much. The major difference was that you apparently don't live in the North East. Living in Maine and after traveling thousands of miles on dirt roads for camping makes the 30 second fuel disconnect more like 30 minutes, and one of the strap bolt retaining nuts was so rusted that it just spun, had to drill it out. Thanks for video, it did help.
I believe he forgot to mention the vent line that is attached to the vapor canister near the front of the tank. You have to disconnect that b4 you drop the tank. Fyi
Thank you, I'm stuck there. I'm afraid of breaking the plastic lines
Thanks for the video, Rich. I know it's hard to cover all scenarios but one thing to make mention of the the vapor canister connection that needs to be carefully disconnected prior to dropping the front of that tank. So many people break the bottom nipple off of the canister when they drop the tank, and since the fuel pumps in these trucks are notorious for failing I would imagine a lot more people will. That's a $100 mistake at minimum not to mention the lost time and frustration. I'm speaking from my own experience as well. Keep up the good work!
Micah Howard Thank you SO much for pointing that vapor canister situation Micah! It is additional input like yours that makes this video just that much stronger, and more thorough!
My best to you!!!
Rich
Hi Benedict, Although not 100% sure, my bet would be that the similarities are very close between the 1999 and the 2003. I don't want to lead you astray with bad info, but using logic, it makes sense that the two vehicles' fuel systems would be very similar in design. Thanks for the kind words, and what ever you do...be safe!
Thanks!
Hey Rich,
Awsome video. Very helpful. Had an 02 suburban, changed the pump successfully, getting ready to do a 2000 Yukon xl. Thanks for the refresher.
Donovan
Good video thanks for NOT adding nauseating music.
Hi Thomas, my pleasure! I know exactly what you mean! Thank you for the kind words, and I trust all went well for you and your pump replacement? Peace
In doing this repair on a truck with rusted metal hard lines I learned how to do this job with that issue and how NOT to do it. If the quick connects come off the sending unit easy, but don't come off the steel lines near the front of the tank easy, then what you want to do is remove the 2 black nylon fuel lines from the 2 clips holding them to the top of the fuel tank and leave them connected to the rusty steel lines. If the steel lines are rusted to the point the quick connects won't easily let go trying to force the quick connects off will destroy the steel lines...I learned this the hard way, and learned that the steel fuel lines are NLA, so I had to make new ones. Doorman makes a couple of 3/8" fuel steel fuel line parts that with a compression coupler and careful bending make a good substitute for the line between the filter and the nylon line, as well as the quick connect end of the 5/16" return line. The return line is likely to be harder to replace because finding a rust free section to use a compression coupler on may require getting fairly close to the engine.
I guess the one benefit of all the extra work screwing up the steel lines caused, is that there's less rusty fuel line to fail in the future.
Hi Donovan,
Thanks for the feedback...I am super thrilled that my tips are so useful!
Glad I could help!
Rich
Dude,
Thanks from San Antonio.
You are the man.
adios amigos
I have a 2005 yukon xl
I will attempt this project hopefully this weekend.
Thanks for the video I will let you know how it goes!
Had the same black vapor canister on my 02 flex fuel sub...one of the small tubes broke off of the canister so I used super glue on it and it seems to be working fine...probably should take the vapor canister down first to remove the lines before dropping the tank..overall even with that problem took me about three hours and I purchased a new ac deco pump online for $180 shipped..thanks for the video
Great video. I just did this to my 2003 suburban. One thing I would add is to unbolt the drive shaft from the rear of the vehicle. That allowed me to swing it over out of the way and gave me some more room to work with.
Hi Ripe One,
Sorry it took me so long to get back to you...I've had some issues at work.
What a great suggestion! Although I did not move the drive shaft, I can see how it would make the job easier.
Thanks for the kind words, and the feedback.
Rich
yep exactly what u said I checked the fuses and the spark they were good took the fuel pump back out had it checked and it was defected brand new out the box I even checked the security and It was fine thank you had the new pump tested before installing came out working perfectly
After all the MILLIONS of in-tank fuel pumps that have been manufactured, you'd think they wouldn't be selling us defective pumps right out of the box.
Thank you VERY MUCH for sharing your story. Glad to hear you are up and running again.
Thanks for the video the little plastic clips gave me the most problems while dropping the tank they didn't want to flex in to release so i pushed in the little tabs with a small flathead to release them. the 2 bolts holding the straps in place were a piece of cake with the impact. And thank god i only had 2 gallons in teh tank when the pump went out :D
Thank you so much. Everything went smoothly except for breaking off the nipple to the bottom hose of the vapor canister
That is AWESOME...well except for breaking the nipple on the bottom of the canister. Thank you for the note that all went well!!
Thanks for the tip about dropping the back of the tank first, I had spend all day trying to release the lines at the front of the tank, got one off but never could get my hand in where I could release the other, between the way it was orientated, the tight fit and a steel plate in the way I could get to one tab but not the other. I went inside and found your video, then went out and dropped the rear of the tank, detached the lines no problem. I don't think you mentioned but there is a clip holding the lines in place that has to release after disconnecting the lines as well. Great job.
Hi Robert, You described the EXACT reason why I put the video together, and I am thrilled that it helped you get the job done. Thank you for the kind words and feedback!
Peace
Rich
Great video, I have the 6.0L so the fuel lines are a bit different, but your video was great!!! Thank you for the service! Made the task sooooo much easier!!!
Hi Douglas Brown, Thank you for the kind words, and I'm thrilled to hear that you got some info that made your pump swap a bit easier. Maybe you could share one or two tips that that you found on your 6.0L, that were different? Thanks again!! Peace! Rich
Great vid. Have an '05 escalade. Is it basically the same procedure?
Thanks for the info.... I was looking at having the pump replaced, but like you mention labor cost. You make it look so easy, and I have most of the tooling (don't have a 15mm socket). Going to give a try, and will let you know how it goes. You have a Very Well constructed Video, and detailed very well. thanks for your time and effort.
Thank you for the break down on replacing the fuel pump.
Hi V. MY PLEASURE! I hope some or all of this was useful. And thank you for commenting! Peace!
Hi Rich!!!! Today my fuel pump of my 2003 suburban Brock down .I was looking some videos and I found yours 👍you explain correctly bro nice I liked.take good care God bless you👍🙏 by Georgeg
Thank you so much for the kind words! I'm pleased that you found my video helpful! Peace and Abundant Blessings!!
thanks for the info and replying to my question. My husband said that 13 years of rust and having never replaced the fuel pump (230,000miles) has made the bolts impossible for him to get off. SO.... guess that means it goes to the dealer and I hope a good price is in the cards.
The fuel pumps always fail with a full tank of gas.
+crsp76691 TRUTH!!!
crsp76691 You mean I shouldn't always top out my fuel tank?
Based on my experience, these in-tank pumps fail no matter how much fuel is in the tank. As a matter of fact, you would not believe the number of pumps are bad right out of the box - before they were ever installed.
Some will tell you that the pump will last longer with more fuel in the tank, to keep the pump "cool." Again, I have heard from hundreds of people that had a pump go bad, and there is no common denominator related to the volume of fuel in the tank. They just fail!
Here's some good news...the last time my pump failed in my 1998 Astro (368,730 miles as of 12/04/2016), I added an enhanced ground from the pump to the frame rail - and that pump has now lasted almost 100,000 miles. Try enhancing the ground next time, and see if you don't get a MUCH longer-lasting pump.
Peace!
exactly....
Mine quit with a quarter
Thanks for the kind words MrDaggs1 - believe or not, just from doing. My philosophy is that if somebody is going to fix that "whatever", that somebody will have a body temp of about 98.6....same as our (you and I) body temps. I also have a fairly extensive background in automotive type stuff...but it's my "can do" attitude that takes me forward. Thanks for moving forward with me!
Peace
Rich
Thanks for this input. I have dreaded the day when I had to do this...and it's here
Thanks for the video, it was a good guide. I just replaced the fuel pump in my 2003 avalanche last night and really didn't even have to take the fuel tank out completely. I dropped the rear of the tank until it was on the ground and then raised the drivers side of the truck up in the air quite a ways and set a couple more jack stands under it. Then I had pretty good access to the fuel pump so I took the fuel lines off the front of the tank but it was a lot easier to do that from the drivers side. Then I slide the tank back but it appears the front of the fuel tank is a little difficult to re-position to take it out completely and get it off the cross member it was resting on and a part of the frame that is needs to get around, so I just stopped trying to take it out any further. At that point I had really good access to the fuel pump and got it done. Total time was about an hour and fourty five minutes start to finish.
Hi Erich; GREAT input on the replacement of the pump. I hope others will have an opportunity to learn from your suggestions too.
Thanks!!!
Peace
Rich
Hi Rich
I have a 03 Yukon Denali. I hear a loud humming sound coming from what appears to be the vapor canister behind the drivers side rear wheel. Do you know what I can do to fix the humming problem?
Thanks this video was really helpful this was my first time replacing the gas pump and you video really help me it takes me about eight hours but i did and i save 800 dls that the mechanic wants to charge me
Hi Jorge, Thank you so much for watching, and I'm SUPER pleased that you found the video helpful! And to save $800.00...AWESOME! Way to go!!! Be safe!! Rich
Thank you for the kind words. When I put this video together, I had NO idea it would have such a positive impact on so many other shade-tree mechanics.
Be Safe!!
Rich
Hi joe mo - It was truly my pleasure!
@FtsHard - Thanks for the kind words! I am super pleased that this video has such a positive effect on so many folks!
Peace
Rich
Rich, Thank you what an informative video. It assisted me greatly in my quest to figure out how to change my 03 Burb fuel pump. Ultimately I discovered a waaaayyyy easier process to do the change. I don't mean to hijack your channel but I feel like people will be very thankful I did. I discovered another old old video a guy had posted, and now I can't find it again, where he showed how to do it without dropping the tank. It was an hour and I was done. So I'm Markie Mark and I'm calling my video "2003-12 GM SUV Fuel Pump Change 1 Hour"
I'm about to do this myself. currently stranded in a parking lot. Wish me luck. This was very informative. This will be the 3rd pump for this truck. Last time it took pep boys 9 hours and $1000 for them to figure it out. Thank you for the video!!
+William Houser It was my pleasure! Side note...if you can figure out a way to enhance the ground from the new pump to the frame of the truck, you might lengthen the life of the pump. I enhanced the ground on a fuel pump replacement on a 1998 Astro, and haven't had a problem with the pump since that last replacement. Be safe!!!!
I need to replace the fuel pump on our 2000 Yukon. Since I only want to do this once! Any recommendations on fuel pump brands? Also hats off on the wheel chocks. The handle will make them easy to store and not get lost.
Hi fatherbob48, I totally agree with your assessment of not wanting to lose a fuel pump while out on the road. I am in the process of finishing my research on the additional ground wire to the fuel pump, and as soon as I am finished, I'll post a video on my site. Thanks for the suggestion, and be sure to stay safe!
How-to With Rich
thank you very much.
what about Changea Fuel Pump for Yukon 2008 or up,
Is it likewise.
Thanks for the Video!!! I am about to change my pump and have done it before on a few vehicles. Thanks for the heads up!!!!!
Hi Nicolas. I hope my tricks, along with some of the awesome input and suggestions from other viewers, are all helpful for you. Be super careful! Peace!!
Hi Rich,
I just replaced the fuel pump on my 2000 yukon. Now the gas gauge isnt working.. is there some way of rebooting this also the low fuel light is on. I appreciate your help..thanks, Chino
Hi Rich,
Great video. Thank you for the help. I am in the process of removing the tank in my '02 Chevy Suburban and I have a problem, one of the front fuel line clips has broken compression tabs. Any ideas on how to release the fitting? Thank you for any help that you may give.
Thank you very much. I owe so much ! You dont know how much this helped me , great video and explanation . The best i have seen on this fuel pump replacement topic . My hat off to you.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
gilberto lopez Thank you very much for the kind words!! I'm thrilled that I was able to share information that was so helpful for you. My best to you!!
Peace
Rich
Great video very helpful. I get to do this tomorrow on an 01 Suburban. I'm hoping it's pretty much the same. Thanks!
Hi Jerry - Thank you! Since the Suburban was the same from 2000 up to 2006, I presume that you will find the fuel pump replacement procedure to be very similar. Be super safe, and be sure to check your fuel pump relay, fuel pump fuse, and fuel filter - just to make sure. Best of luck to you!
Peace
Rich
Hi Rich! Thanks for this video. Im planning to do this procedure on my next weekend on my Ford Expedition 03. Is there any loop holes or any tricks besides ur this video or is the same proces?
Hi Rich, love your videos. I need your help. I've got an 01 Suburban 2500 4x4. The fuel gauge kept acting funny, dropping to E and back to the fuel level. I was SURE it was the sending unit. I replaced it after the needle finally stuck on E, but that did not fix it. HELP!!!!!!
Hi Jonnyboy Nutcracker, Ah the ole fuel gauge stuck on E issue. In almost every situation where this happens, you are correct, it's the sending unit. Occasionally it's a bad gauge in the dash, and once in a great while it's a bad ground or wiring issue from the tank to the dash. The easiest of those three (at this point) is to disconnect the fuel gauge and check the current at the connections. You'll need to find out what the current should be, and then simply hook the wires that go to the gauge, to a volt/ohm meter and see what the current reading should be (at full for example). If the current it correct, then it's a bad gauge, if the current is non-existent or extremely low, the next step would be to check the wiring to make sure there are no breaks or bad grounds. Here's the bad news, most of the time, its actually a bad sending unit. I KNOW! A brand new pump and sending unit is BAD. Yep, it happens all the time, and you may have gotten a bad one right out of the box. Of the hundreds of comments on this video, I bet 10% are related to bad pumps right out of the box. SO frustrating. Hope these ideas help you locate your issue. Thank you for commenting, and please let us know what you find. Peace!! Rich
Hi Rich, i am havin a hard time finding the fuel pump. Auto parts keep asking for the stamp number on thr hardness. Any idea? Thanks and great video
Thank you for reaching out to me, but I have to apologize that I don't have any input on that part of the project. I always went to my local Advance Auto Parts for fuel pumps and had great luck...as long as you have the VIN for the rig, they should be able to help. My best to you, and be safe!!
thank you rich. I've always been pretty handy working on cars. but the fuel tank has always been a scary one for me you made it very unscary. LOL
Hi Eugene,
Sorry it took me so long to get back to you...I've had some issues at work.
LOL...I'm thrilled to hear that you weren't scared.
Thanks for the kind words, and the feedback.
Rich
Rich I have a Chevy tahoe Z71 2004. looks like the tank is leaking from the top.
I think is the fuel pump oring . any idea where i can found the orings clips.
please advise i like to heard your ideas .
thanks Herberth
Hi Herberth, WOW....my first guess would be from a local auto dismantler or wrecking yard - IF you can't get the parts you need from a local dealer. Another idea might be to purchase a nice used tank from a wrecking yard on eBay?
That is a odd one, and I wish I had better advice. Try those two ideas, and use EXTREME caution replacing those parts on the top of the fuel tank!
Peace
Rich
any help is appreciated. I have an 2002,suburban and when the fuel gauge is at the quarter mark it starts stalling. does this mean the fuel filter is bad????
+Shaun Ranuro - Hi Shaun, My first guess would be a bad fuel pump. If you are at a 1/4 tank or full, if the pump is working properly the fuel filter would not know the difference with the volume in the tank - but the pump certainly would. From my experience, pumps that fail, many times start to go bad (and are many time very noticeable) when the fuel tank has a 1/4 tank or less fuel in it - and lots of people have experienced this too.
I'm not a gambling man, but if I were, based on your description I'd bet that the pump is starting to fail. Unless any other reader has another point of view, the only logical starting point is the common denominator - and that would not be the fuel filter (in my humble opinion).
I have replaced fuel filters on many rigs were we were HOPING it was the filter and not the pump...and every time I was wrong.
Thank you for sharing your situation - let us know what you discover.
Ps...don't forget to replace the fuel filter relay and the fuel filter fuse - and yes, there should be one of each in your Sub
Peace
I like this how-to. I noticed you said this was for a non-flex suburban. Do you know how different this job would be for a flex-fuel pump? I would guess it's pretty close. I have to do one of these soon as mine is failing.
hello rich love your video. my 2002 suburban starts and then no fuel pressure is there and it shuts off. is this fuel pump related
Hi. I'm in the middle of the thing. gotta put the tank back in place. Here are a few info from my experience. First, you'll need to lift the rear of the truck. place jack under the rear diff and put a pair of jackstand on each side, you have a flat part where the rear shock ends. i've put my jackstand there. I've rised it until i have 2-3 inches of room under the tires. This way it will be very confortable to work under unless you're a body builder kind of mechanic. ;)
The hoses coming from the filler neck are really hard to remove. and they are unavailable for sale over the internet or even off line. had to use a big flat screwdriver to pry it and step by step put it out of the metal neck it's on.
Since my truck is in the underground parking lot of the building, i've put a plastic bag around the hoses & strapped them with a rubber band so it won't smell gasoline around your truck.
Put a jack under the tank, remove the straps and let it go down gently. The hoses I was talking about may not let you lower the tank. Just fold them.
Next step is as shown in the video : Crawl under from the passenger side. I had enough headroom to lay on my side. It's easier to see what's waiting for you. You may use a gopro that broadcast movie on your cell phone either. The square plug has a red retainer that willl block you from removing the plug from its socket. Just pull it. Remove both plugs and the fuel lines.
Go on the driver side and pull the tank. You may have to remove more wires and hoses.
I went out to buy a groove joint pliers to remove the lock ring. it was rusty as hell. I strongly suggest you replace it with a new one, and put a nice amount of grease on it before you got the tank back in place. Don't forget to use a vaccum cleaner to remove all dusty sh.ts and small gravels that lies around your pump.
Swap the pump. be aware the old pump still has some gas inside. Pour it back to the tank. Put the new pump in place put the metal ringback and tighten it.
That's where I am now. Going down the basement to rise the tank back in place. Wish me luck ! :)
EDIT: the new pump have a 4x1 socket instead of the 2x2 socket from factory. My pump was sold with a 4x1 plug and 3-4 inches of wires and I should have my harness cut to solder it instead of the 2x2 OEM plug. Since I'm not in the mood to solder near a tank of gas, I've bought over ebay a small cable with a 2x2 socket at one end that will fit you OEM harness, and a 4x1 plug that will fit the new pump socket at the other end. Works perfectly.
All I can say is...WOW! Awesome input from Tom! Thanks again Tom, and thanks for such an AWESOME contribution to others with this HORRIBLE in-tank pump situation.
Peace and Abundant Blessings
Rich
Thank you Rich. I just read what I wrote and did not said much more than you already did in your video.
To complete from my experience, i'll say the install is reverse of the removal. After putting the new pump in place, you'll be eager to test it. Before you do, put the front end of the tank back on the crossmember and then replug the fuel line and electrical connectors back together. Start your engine. Enjoy its nice sound. If you reconnect your lines before putting the tank back as i said, you'll see the lines are too short to pull the tank back enough so the front part will be in position to go back to the cross member. And disconnecting them can be a pita. The rest is easy : rise the tank, attach both straps, and don't forget to reconnect the filling hoses or you could have a very unpleasant surprise at the gas station next refuelling. ;-)
Few tips : The groove joint plier (how do you named it in your video? i did not understand) is a must have. Without it, it will be next to impossible to remove the locking ring.
For overseas DIYers like me (I'm from France, this may explain my goofy english), be sure to buy parts before you start working on it : a new locking ring is not a luxury. Also buy a pair of fuel line retainers, those you need to transfer from the old pump to the new one. One of mine was half broken.
Thanks Rich for the video and the tips. If this Suburban is still yours, do not hesitate to make new video about it. Best regards.
Hey Rich, great video.
I have an 03 Suburban with high mileage and was wondering, instead of dropping the tank, could I cut an access hole through the cargo floor, then pulling the pump out through the hole? This seems like it would knock off about 1.5 to 2 hours. I would just need to know where to cut the hole.
Hi Kevin, You know, that is actually a very interesting idea! And too be honest, I even thought about doing the exact same thing with my son's Suburban; but I decided not to take that route. I don't like the idea of cutting a hole in the floor pan of the truck right above the fuel tank; for all the obvious reasons. And then trying to figure out how to cover the hole with some sort of a "door" that you would be able to seal up tight - I think you might be happier just going the other route. In my humble opinion, IF General Motors (or any other manufacturer for that matter) REALLY cared about ease of service, they would have designed that "door" for us...but NOPE! They chose the more expensive route. Oh well.
If you decide to tackle this adventure, PLEASE come back and post your comments on how it went.
Be SAFE!!!
Thanks & Peace
Rich
richwahne
Hi Rich, thanks for the great video. Just like Kevin, I am also interested in creating a hatch door above the tank and will take on the adventure. Based on your work, do you think a 15 inch x 15 hole above the tank would be suffice for getting the new pump in and dealing with all connections?
***** Hi Timothy, I'm just shooting from the hip here, but based on your idea - I'd say that a 15" x 15" hole cut in the floor (directly above the fuel pump in the tank) should be large enough. BUT - please keep in mind that the pump doesn't just slide straight into the hole in the tank. Due to the fact that the fuel sensor is hanging off the side of the pump, the pump needs to go in on an angle; and that is where my question would start. IF the pump dropped straight in and came straight out, 15" x 15" would be sufficient - but due to the maneuvering necessary, you may find that it's not a big enough opening. Then comes the question about sealing that hole back up to keep the weather and other unwanted elements out of your rig.
I wish I could give you the all-clear signal, but I just don't know if it would work.
Thanks for your addition to the thread...and whatever you wind up doing - use EXTREME caution!!!
Peace!
Rich
Rich, thanks a bunch. You can save some time and effort if you use ramps (easy 8" lift) instead of a jack. Went pretty smooth except on one of the 2 fuel connectors up front, Chevy put one of those QUICK CONNECTs that need that special tool. Thankfully I had one for the fuel filter (too long for the fuel filter but it came in handy nonetheless). Thanks again!
+Mary Tafoya Hi Mary, Thanks for the note. There have been times that those darned ramps get in the way, so I just got used to using the jack stands; but I appreciate the thought and in the right situation ramps are AWESOME!! Glad you liked my video, and I'm super happy you got all your fuel issues handled!
Peace to you and yours!
Rich
@marcov935 -- Well I must say that your question put a smile on my face. My first thought was, hum along with the tune...lol. (sorry) I would say that one of the baffles in the canister has more than likely broken, and that broken piece is vibrating inside the canister. If I were you, I think I would just pick up another canister, and replace the old one. That should take care of the humming inside...if it doesn't...learn the tune and hum along. (I'm sorry...I had to! lol)
Thanks!!!
Rich
I did this today and since I am in North Dakota working in the oil fields I did not have a Jack so I just used an ANCRA Motorcycle strap under the back of the tank and slowly dropped the tank. Took my 2 hours and 13 minutes and only drank 11 Coors Lights out of the 20 pack. The electrical connector of course broke but the pump I bought even had an extra connector in the box. Total cost with Beer was $267.12. WHAT A DEAL. Dealer up here cost $1456.00 including the pump, What a joke. Great Video
Great info, only things I would add would be to disconnect the negative battery terminal before you begin, that way you don't need to worry about electrical system or wires (especially near gas fumes). Also, after the pump is installed and you are ready to crank, turn the truck on but not the engine (one click of the key). Then turn it off. Repeat this several times. This will prime the pump before starting the engine and will keep the pump from failing prematurely. Good luck!
Hi Gary, GREAT input on the pump replacement project! I'll advise others to take note to your fine addition. Peace!!
Hi James,
It certainly sounds like you could have a fuel pump going bad. But you might also have a plugged fuel filter. I always recommend changing the filter first, just to make sure (both time and cost are MUCH less), and if that doesn't take care of the problem, then you can tackle the pump itself.
Best of luck to you, and whichever way you proceed...use extreme safety measures!
Peace!
Rich
Great tips I have a 05 suburban and im sure the pump will go someday.
Hey Rich. Thanks for the video. I cannot get one of the compression clips on the front lines off. The tabs are broken off. I have spent almost 2 hours wrestling with it trying small screwdrivers, short nails, etc trying to push that tab in. It won't budge. I'm out of ideas and patience. Any ideas for me?
Hi Anna, From what I can tell from your description, the clip(s) that you are trying to release is still under a lot of pressure from the fuel line pulling on it (as if you were trying to pull the fuel line off without releasing the clip).
IF you can push the fuel line toward the clip (to release the pressure on the clip), then close the tabs on the clip, that might help. As a back up, I would call your local dealer and see if they sell those clips, pick up a few of them, break the existing clips off (very carefully) and replace them with new clips. I sure hope either of those ideas work? My best to you, and be sure to use EXTREME caution working with those fuel lines!!!! Peace Rich
Actually this was a very good video and I am sure reasonalbly complete for a 2003 Suburb. Rich did a good job as it was very helpful to me to do this job safely. (I like your intro bit too.)
I am working on a 2002 Suburb and found some differences as Chris and Eli did. I did encounter the vapor canister and could see the ONE line connection at the front of the tank and summarily disconnected it before lowering (no problem). Also, I had the unhappy fortune to find one of the fuel line connections at the front of the tank was not the easy finger pinch type (as all others were). Instead it was one of those odd types that required the specialslip-over the steel line tool so that a circular extension would slide under the lip of the connector to spread the clip device apart and release the connector. (I am curious if anyone else had this odd ball connector.)
So all-in-all I appreciate the information presnted here. In fact, this was the best one out of about a half-dozen videos I reviewed. Thanks again, Rich.
Jack A C --- AWESOME addition!!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to add your findings. It is a real pleasure to have folks like you adding to the info!
Peace!! Rich
Hi Rich, I have a 2003 chevy Tahoe. The fuel gauge has started going up and down regardless of the fuel level, even when full. I like your video of the tank removal and pump replacement. Do you think if I replace the whole pump assembly it will solve my problem? Or could it be something else?
Bort Sampson might be your gauges
Hi Bort - did you ever figure out why your gauge was giving you a false reading (up and down) while the tank was full?
Thanks
Hey Rich, I liked your how to video and am looking into taking on the fuel pump in my 2007 Suburban. It is a 1500 2WD Flex Fuel. Just wondering if you knew of any major changes from the 2003 your video featured and my 2007?
Thanks,
EJ
Thanks for the video I was wondering what's the best brand fuel pump to replace my current failing fuel pump? Should I do AC Delco or would I would be ok with a cheaper aftermarket pump? My Suburban loses power at 1/4 of a tank an it's starting to stall out at a fuel tank.
If I were you, I would use the AC/Delco due to the brand name and ability to get a replacement if it fails during the warranty period. One other point to consider, be sure to enhance the ground. These in-tank pumps have HORRIBLE grounding, which is a major reason they fail. Find the ground circuit in the wiring (make sure it's the ground circuit) and enhance it by running a separate wire to the frame rail of the rig. Based on my own personal experience, this will make the pump last a LOT longer.
Be SUPER careful, and best of luck to you.
Greetings. I am trying to put the plate back on top of the new fuel pump. I'm having a tough time because when I turn it it won't turn and lock so I hammer it and the vibration makes it pop out. Is the channel lock the only two that will work for putting the plate back on securely?
Hi Erick, Yes...the channel lock was the tool that worked best for me. It is a bit of a tussle getting that plate back on the tank, but I can be done. You might try a bit of lubricant on the round seal...that might make the difference. Thanks for the comment!
Rich
@@richwahneEXPERTSmadeEasy thank you Sir. I appreciate it.
This was the most helpful vid i found on utube.. Thanks
Hello Jack Frye...I'm thrilled that you found my video so helpful! Thank you for letting me know, and for the very kind words!! All the best!! Rich
Nice vid. Thanx for takin the time out
Hey Rich,
Thank you so much for your video. My fuel pump on my 2003 Yukon Denali went out about 1mth. ago so I've been watching many videos on replacing the pump. I've been reading comments that people have had to replace there pumps 2 or 3 times.
This I don't need.
So when do you think you'll be posting a video on installing additional grounding for the pump?
Would you recommend cutting an access panel above the fuel pump to bypass the removal of the tank?
Hi pquin 77
Sorry it took me so long to get back to you...I've had some issues at work.
You know, there was a time that I would have said not to cut a hole...but now that I have cut a hole in the floor of a 1998 Astro (to replace the SIXTH pump), I'd say HECK YES!!! Just be SUPER CAREFUL!!
Thanks for shooting the question to me, and again - sorry for the delay in responding.
Rich
Just a quick question Im having issues getting the fuel line clips to compress due to rust any suggestions. Got the tank down and ready but the lines wont come loose.
@dcwst1 GREAT question! I highly recommend stopping in to a local auto parts store and purchasing the right sizes of "Fuel Line Wrenches" (probably two different sizes - one for the fixed nut on each end of the filter, and a larger size for the nut on the fuel line). Quite simply they are box wrenches with a slot cut out for the fuel line. They will make this part of the job extremely easy and MUCH safer. Best of luck to you!!
Hi Rich! First off, thank you for making this video.
I have a 2002 Avalanche with 100k and I need to change the fuel pressure sender so I might as well change the whole pump since I don't think can sneak the sensor in without removing the tank.
My question is, did you have to remove any EVAP lines that connect to the tank or were you able to leave connected?
Thanks for any help,
Frank
Hey Rich thanks for the info, confirms what I thought and gives me a few new tricks, got to do a 200 Yukon and hey I'm bass player also
Hi Rich,
Thank you so much for making this video. Where did you learn all your skills ?
Rich, I have a 2004 chevy suburban,5.3, flex fuel, and it seems that the charcoal filter will be in the way you didn't mention it in your video. Also, the problem isn't the fuel pump, a pack rat got on top of my gas tank and bit the fuel gauge wire through. Any shortcuts to repairin the wire at the fuel pump. Kenny
Hi Kent, OH NO!!! The dreaded pack rat. Sorry, I don't have any shortcuts for that function. When the wire is damaged, I always replace the damaged wire with a new plug that comes with about 7" of wire...and if necessary I replace the damaged wire all the way up to the frame rail. Here's the bad news...either way the tank usually has to come out of the rig.
BEST of luck to you, and THANK YOU for your comment!
Peace
Rich
Hi Brian,
Yes this was a 2WD. My research shows the tank comes out the same in either the 2 or 4WD models. If you have the back of the tank down on the ground, you should be able to reach up over the top of the tank, on the driver's side, near the front of the tank and get to the fuel line connections. I know exactly what you mean that they are "basically inaccessible" as I thought the EXACT same thing when I got the tank down. Maybe my arms are longer than yours (LOL...)?
My best to you!
Seems pretty straightforward. I ve had some fuel pump issues intermittently. Recently changed the canister and all solenoids.
Do you recommend changing the fuel filter along with the pump?
Again great video!
Hi Jeff B, - Thank you for the kind words, and you posed a Great question! If I were you, I would change the fuel filter too...just to be sure. However, each time I've gone to the trouble of changing the filter, I was disappointed with the results; as in, no change at all. Every time it turned out to be the darned pump, inside the tank. Whatever you decide, please be SAFE SAFE SAFE!! Peace!! Rich
do the lines hook up the exact same way as a reg gas tank ..?..
and i watched this video n found it very helpful thank you happy holidays.
@kirktowns The filler hose was a bit tricky, but don't let it get the best of you. After you remove the hose clamps from either end of the filler hose, grab hold of it and turn it to break it loose from the tank and the tube coming down from the filler. Once it turns freely, twist and pull (and it might be tough) on the end going into the tank and it will come off. Once you get that end off you are home free. Just pull hard and you will win. Best of luck. Thanks!
Hey man. There is one additional ocnnection that is keeping me from being able to drop the tank out. I think it is thconnecting to the evaporative canister which is a little box mounted directly next to the gas tank toward the front of the car. Any idea of to get this off? I unmounted the box to try and give myself a little extra room but cannot figure out how to remove the connection.
+Joseph Kiloh - Hey Joseph...I know that the connections on the evap canister were the exact same connection as the connections on the fuel lines into and out of the pump. They are very tricky! IF You can push the hose into the connection (to reduce to pressure on the clip tongs) and close those tongs, you should be able to get that evap can out. I'm SO sorry I'm not more help with your question, but those clips are the WORST - especially if you can't push the line towards the canister and squeeze the tongs at the same time, to release the clip. My best to you!
hey rich,
i want to know the position of the fuel tank , i mean the filter side will kept upward or downward.. whole pump is in submerged condition ryt..
I'm not sure I understand your question completely. The entire pump assembly with the filter attached, drops in through a hole in the top of the tank, and the filter/pump is submerged when the tank is filled with fuel. I hope that is close to what you are looking for?
thank you.
HI,Rich. I'm going to change the fuel pump and regulator in my 2003dodge Ram2500 5.7L. What's the best way to do this? Also The reason I'm Replacing the fuel pump and regulator is because I have no horse power when going up a hill,almost like if gas is not being pump as I accelerate.I have check my injentors and found that one of them was bad so I replace it,then I check my Fuel pressure and it was at 50 Psi, even if I accelerate it wouldn't move from 50 Psi. 'm I heading in the right direction?