DEBOSS GARAGE make sure you cover custom fuel economy builds and what transmissions can be used in engine swaps... Can you still use Chevy pre-Duramax/Allison transmissions from the old 6.5L Detroit for a 5.9? And vise-versa?
DEBOSS. quick question. Doing a bearing roll on my 6bt. Many say to buy new crank and rod bolts. Spoke with two Cummins techs and they say its ok to reuse them. Only thing for power adder is my home made AFC in cab control. Thank you.
I have a 5.9 24v in an 06 3500. Driving home to GA from NC, it developed a knock (noticeable at interstate speed). Immediately pulled over and had it towed to the nearest Walmart. After looking at what I could (it was around midnight, so very dark), I decided that I would just get it to the nearest Dodge Dealership (1/4 mile away), drive home, call them in the morning and have them diagnose / fix it. By the time I drove the truck out of the parking lot, it started thrashing (badly) and died. It would crank, but would thrash the motor / cab badly, so I turned it off and had it towed that 1/4 mile to the dealership. Tech cranked it, turned it off, said the bottom end was out and wanted to charge me $10,000 to $15,000 to put a "new" (rebuilt) Jasper engine into it. I believe - firmly - that an injector failed, chewed a valve seat, and it is - in fact - the top end that is out. I'll know shortly because .... I struggled for a week on what to do. After googling and watching videos (specifically, this one), I decided to tow it home and pull / rebuild it myself. Shop crane arrived 2 weeks ago and the engine stand came in last week. While I haven't had time to get it out just yet, this video series has given me the confidence to attempt the work. I intend to reference the *&^% out of this series (along with other, similar videos). Thank you. Thank you, so much. I intend to video the work and upload to TH-cam during the process. I just wanted you to know how much I appreciate your videos. I am not a mechanic, I learn as I go, and people like you make all the difference.
@@razor3003 Around 180k. I have the engine out and on a stand. Piston #1 and #3 look ... not like new. The other 4 look good. Metal shavings on piston #1 and #3. Lots of metal shavings in the oil pan. Thing it chewed up a bearing. Trying to get to that today, only got it flipped over and the pan off yesterday. Ran outta time =P
@@razor3003 Well, I bought it used. No idea how it was taken care of. And, to be perfectly honest, I could have done a better job myself. Lesson learned. The silver lining is that, without that having happened, I don't know that I ever would have jumped into a project like this. Learning a lot, so ... something positive will come out of it. Also, DebossGarage gained a sub :)
@@razor3003 Now that I have it completely apart, I found the problem and the cause. The oil pan gasket had completely blown out in a couple of places. It had not been burning oil before the trip, so ... I assume this happened at some point during the 8 hour drive there or on the way back before it broke down. Lack of oil... The rod bearing on rod #1 has eroded considerable (the cause of the metal in the oil pan) and has fused to the rod. The rod is simple enough to replace, but there's quite a bit of damage to the crank shaft where that bearing was at. I'm not sure it can be machined or not.
Chilton's manuals were good guidelines and included specs for experienced mechanics. They were in no way textbooks. Deboss videos are more like tech school training sessions.
You are the only video mechanic that has made a point of including the torque readings even for minor attachment bolts. I was trained as an aircraft mechanic and torque was the holy grail of engine assembly and all the control surfaces. Very professional presentation.
Rich reminds me of the old timer that taught me how to wrench. No frills, no wasting money and great information that is conveyed the best I’ve seen. Rich thank you for taking the time and forgive me for buying a 2019 eco diesel last week. If it’s any consolation I am keeping the 7.3 PS but the 2nd gens are getting expensive or are hammered here in Cali.
There are like a thousand of rebuild video's out there but what I like about this one is the "to-the-point" naration and focusing & highlighting on all the really important points without bulshit. Well done!
@@jasonneels3760 This whole channel is about preserving machinery from being scrapped as long as it doesn't show signs of irreparable damage - not throwing equipment away just because it's easier to buy yourself a solution.
i just did this to my 24 valve. i spent 1800.00 with full machining, over sized pistons, and such. took me 7 months from start to finish and the machining took about 3 and a half months for the machine shop to finish the block/head. they didnt do any disassembly or reassembly, just machining.
Glad too finally see someone who does it right!! Yet does it as a normal mechanic would do!! Lotta these others do it by the book and every step?? Really! This guy does and knows the critical things yet still does it as we normally would!! Good job! Love a real video down too earth!!
My dad bought a 1995 12 valve 5 speed 4x4 brand new at the end 1994 and all it has ever seen for oil is chevron delo 400 and sometimes it has had the Lucas oil stabilizer. It is only at 215,000 miles now but it has never had an issue at all when it comes to the engine
Ex mechanic here from way back. Looks like a nice job. You can put straight edge on the head and check for any warping. An old trick is to put two head gaskets on if the head has been ground more than once.
I Armando Rabino Academia student. I still focus watching the video. I'm very full knowledge. To watch a video, how to engine rebuild. To engine overhaul. Or engine assemble This time I additional my personal experience. To engine overhaul. Step by step. Install all parts, and all acce ssories
another trick for pulling injectors is a piece of PVC piping that fits over the injector body, a washer that fits over the pvc and allows the injector end to go through and a nut that fits the threads on the injector. worked well for me, love how simple these engines are.
I Armando Rabino Academia student I watch the video very focus in my eyes. My knowledge is additional in this time. My personal experience is add today. And I thank you.
Hi had 5.7 gm diesel junk big time put 350 olds gas engine worked good. Had a couple 6.5s blew one 94 dually and 95 3/4 2wd not bad but low on power. Also started having numerous issues with 05 duramax traded on 04 Yukon with 5.3 and 05 Silverado 5.3 z71 simple to repair and affordable to run. Tim
Great video. I would like to add a few things which I was taught. One is to clean the cylinder bores with ATF on white paper towels. Do this until the towels come out pink with no dirt. Another is to test the ring gaps deeper in the bore where the piston is pushing sideways or at least check the bore diameter down there. Lastly, I haven't seen the Cummins spec but it seemed that the honing angle was a bit much. When I went to high school we got to tear down, measure, and re-assemble Ford inline 6s. It was great! If a student acted up too much they got to bore a cylinder oversized. Great video, just food for thought.
I hate working on cars period,i guess cause i drove piles as a young man and had alot of bad experiences workin on em,and this was when u could change a fuel pump in 5 mins.i have a 12 v and wondered how much it cost to have it overhauled,which led me to these video.iv become addicted to em now.very well done.i could sit and watch him work on the cummin all day,as long as i dont get greezy.ha ha
A 2nd gen dodge ram lug nut is the same thread pitch as the injector lines. You can use a cut socket and a lug nut to pop them out, plus the lug is likely tapered making it even easier
I love watching you work on diesels, I spent many years on gas engines, there isn't a whole lot different when putting them together. BTW my torque wrench is built into my arm.
Rick! Good trick for the kdp is to drive it in and center punch it and the case around the hole. That way it's free and no extra metal to ever possibly fall through the gears
I have done that on my own truck. I don't want to risk telling people to hit their timing cover and telling me they cracked it. I'm glad I'm not the only one though. There is some footage of this dowel almost all the way out when I first opened it up
I first started watching without even realizing it was 30 mins long, then all of the sudden it’s over and I just watched a entire 30 minute video without clicking off lol
picking up an ex library council bus to convert only reason why i got was cos engine is mint,the engine you have here.. actually its solid so I wont scrap the shell anyway good video. I`m in England and do everything on my own im 55
Basic first generation Chevy small block rebuilding techniques; simple procedures with no drama! Your teaching method is straight forward and easy to follow and understand! Thanks
I appreciate these videos. I know a lot about gasoline engines but I’ve never took the time to do the same about diesels. I’m interested in seeing the differences between the two no matter how minor they are.
20:54 get a set of pass through wrenches for that. Not needed, but for things like this and intercooler clamps or anything with a lot of threads and a nut to drive out those pass though's can work wonders.
Great video really like your channel. I am definitely a Cummins guy. I have had my mechanic shop for 25 years this year. Not saying it's wrong but I never pull the head removing or replacing the engine. Take radiator and condenser out side it in. It's wild seeing how different people do same thing different ways again really like your channel thank you and have a blessed day
Great vid! I’m new to Diesel engines and this vid really answered a bunch of questions I had. Good work young man. This vid will be saved and watched over and over again. I will be watching your other vids as well.
Another excellent vid Rich. I love the simplicity of the B series Cummins. Next time you are near a Car Quest, stop in and check out Klondike Brake cleaner. A case can be had cheap, always on sale.
Crows foot and Torque Wrench can get to the bolts. But then again test a few with wrench and Torque values. Then know how much to use. Enjoyed the video, wish my VP44 had a P pump.
I buy 20 litre pails of brake clean from bumper to bumper for around 80$ in Alberta. Use a pump sprayer and save a ton compared to aerosal. Worth looking into
To help with quickly forming surface rust, you can use a can of canned air. It's not actually air and doesn't have oxygen and will stop a good bit of rust from forming while the water evaporates away. You can also spray it with acetone which will help evaporate the water away.
You can buy a pack of those small rare earth magnets and use them to hold your lifters in place so you can flip the engine over and don't have to worry about installing the cam just to hold your lifters in place.
There is actually a manual that is available the tell you the torque of I was to say any bolt by using the shank measuerment and threads pitch and the threads per inch.its been a minute since i used it but i'm thinking im close on the variables.
J.W. Hunt Volvo has that type of "torque by diameter" table, I found it in Alldata and have actually applied it to other makes when I can't find a specific torque spec.
also thanks for the videos. i know its a pain in the ass to make a video as you're trying to do a job but it's really cool to see a cummins tear down and rebuild. or anything for that matter.
What I would do to torque the turbo flange studs to the correct torque is to take a crows foot on a torque wrench. I’d then calculate the length of the crows foot off the total length of the torque wrench and reduce torque setting accordingly. I can start on Monday Rich 😁
If you look up the procedure to calibrate a torque wrench then use a cross foot adapter and recalculate for the increased length you can adjust your torque settings on the wrench to get the 32 ft. Pounds needed on the turbo to manifold bolts. You can verify your torque calculations by installing the manifold bolts using the crows foot set up and verifying torque with a separate torque wrench. (If you feel the absolute need to have the exact measurement) On the plus side by learning how to calibrate your torque wrench you ensure the wrench is working correctly. Calibrating the torque wrench can be done with a hand held aircraft luggage scale, a tape measure, pencil and scratch paper. It takes about 5 minutes.
DEBOSS GARAGE , haha. the mighty powerstroke! I love my diesels. I enjoy my duramax, that being said, I respect the 5.9. The simplicity of them makes me want to throw one in a old crew cab, square body, 2500 chev I bought off of kijiji. This video series is much appreciated, and is very helpful and indispensable to d.i.y.ers like myself and others who watch. Keep up the good work sir! One day I'll see if you have some time for a lml duramax egr delete/dpf removal show. (50k more to go before warranty is off!)
on those hard to reach bolts like the turbo i make a cut down wrench and weld a socket to the opposite end and then use a little math to adjust for the torque with the extended arm.
Engineer 1: what should the main torques be? Engineer 2: hmm maybe one as 18 and the other 32. Engineer 1: why those? Engineer 2: I don't know. Engineer 1:👌
@POV Adventures I've never been called dumb but being referred to as weird and arrogant is not unusual for non-engineers who don't understand our thought processes or our twisted brand of humor.
I didnt really pay attention but im assuming this is for the same bolt type or cover. Theres a few things that would change the torque requirement of a fastener mostly having to do with the structure of the mating surfaces, surrounding features, and proximity to other bolts. Its also possible for manufacturers to experience quality issues (very small percentage) when assembling these components, so their practical solution may end up just by bumping up the torque specs of a few bolts to fix the problem, as opposed to spending way more money on new tooling to accommodate the issue. This is more likely with thinner aluminum covers and lower torques.
@POV Adventures You appear to be well versed in all the constraints engineers have to deal with. You certainly have a strong grasp of the written language. Try spending a day free of engineering, or even five minutes. Roof over your head... engineered. The computer or phone you are using, electrical, mechanical, and software engineers. Television..... silly engineers managed to not only get those satellites into space, but keep them there.
You may consider using mobil1 (or other synhthetic) oil for main bearing fitment. Do not use it for your break in oil, but you'll have a better feel for how the crank rides in the main bearings and hopefully find any issues before going too far.
in my opinion, the weight of the crank has no influence on the bearing cap considering the tons of pressure from the two cap bolts....think about it. Besides that, your craftsmanship is good.
A good way to get the oil through the engine is fill the sump and crank the engine over until you see oil at the top of the motor, obviously before starting.
I always lap the valves by hand even if they look good, so much easier to do now than have to do it later and possibly have to cut the seats and grind the valves.
I buy brake clean by the 55 gallon drum. $350 and it last my shop a little over a year. The cans we use $100+ a month in cans. If y’all can buy it that way it’s way cheaper.
Just a fyi rings spin as the engine runs so positioning does not matter as long as there assembled with gaps opposite of each other its fine it doesnt matter if gap is pointed towards intake or exhaust
If you can bypass the distributor system in a diesel engine and just run the glow plugs all the time you can get a greater efficiency. Try it and verify on the tester.
Im gona be rebuilding my engine in a year or so (bmw v8) Its pretty cool to see what you can do by yourself. Im pretty good with cars tho but i havent ever built an engine
A 440 thermostat is the same diameter as the 12v and its a 195° did it to my 12v and it has run much nicer in the winter. Didnt notice a difference this summer.
i didnt plasti gage mine when i built it. i trusted the machine shop to mic things and tell me what i needed to order when they were doing the boring and decking. im 2500 miles into my rebuild now so i guess that means i assembled it correctly and the machine shop was right? pushing 250hp injectors with compound turbos
Nice video. Please note that the many chemicals in oil and grease can pass through your skin pores and enter your bloodstream (Dermal absorption). Rubber gloves are essential.
Hi Boss love your videos you are a great mechanic I have a 12 valve that runs good pulling 5 or 6 tons in level ground but in hills seems to loose power the motor has about375k I do see blow by what do you think is my problem
Next time you put pistons in, Instead of hammering them through the ring compressor with the hammer handle, Poke youre hand in through the crank case and grab the big end and pull it through while you are rocking it from side to side a little. You get more feel that way and less chance of breaking a ring.
Where the hell are all of these engines? Been around decades in cabs that are just itching to rot away, yet sill haven't seen a single unit in the wreckers that I regularly go, nor a Kijiji part out ad within 500 miles. Dream project (well .. perhaps aside a diesel/nitrous hybrid rocket on the back of a coke bottle mopar, lol) is to stuff a 5.9 into a '69 or '70 Kingswood or something similar - stylin' service wagon that I could still afford to drive at $5/gal. Great vid though.
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Check Protrusion: www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-5-3810-307-24-2-2.pdf
DEBOSS GARAGE make sure you cover custom fuel economy builds and what transmissions can be used in engine swaps... Can you still use Chevy pre-Duramax/Allison transmissions from the old 6.5L Detroit for a 5.9? And vise-versa?
DEBOSS GARAGE is that oil pan painted on the inside?
Is Engine oil good and is the same weight as what will be put in the engine during routine maintenance
Crows foot on torque wrench.
DEBOSS. quick question. Doing a bearing roll on my 6bt. Many say to buy new crank and rod bolts. Spoke with two Cummins techs and they say its ok to reuse them. Only thing for power adder is my home made AFC in cab control. Thank you.
I have a 5.9 24v in an 06 3500. Driving home to GA from NC, it developed a knock (noticeable at interstate speed). Immediately pulled over and had it towed to the nearest Walmart. After looking at what I could (it was around midnight, so very dark), I decided that I would just get it to the nearest Dodge Dealership (1/4 mile away), drive home, call them in the morning and have them diagnose / fix it. By the time I drove the truck out of the parking lot, it started thrashing (badly) and died. It would crank, but would thrash the motor / cab badly, so I turned it off and had it towed that 1/4 mile to the dealership.
Tech cranked it, turned it off, said the bottom end was out and wanted to charge me $10,000 to $15,000 to put a "new" (rebuilt) Jasper engine into it. I believe - firmly - that an injector failed, chewed a valve seat, and it is - in fact - the top end that is out. I'll know shortly because ....
I struggled for a week on what to do. After googling and watching videos (specifically, this one), I decided to tow it home and pull / rebuild it myself.
Shop crane arrived 2 weeks ago and the engine stand came in last week. While I haven't had time to get it out just yet, this video series has given me the confidence to attempt the work. I intend to reference the *&^% out of this series (along with other, similar videos).
Thank you. Thank you, so much.
I intend to video the work and upload to TH-cam during the process. I just wanted you to know how much I appreciate your videos. I am not a mechanic, I learn as I go, and people like you make all the difference.
Just wondering...how many miles on the truck?
@@razor3003 Around 180k.
I have the engine out and on a stand. Piston #1 and #3 look ... not like new. The other 4 look good.
Metal shavings on piston #1 and #3. Lots of metal shavings in the oil pan. Thing it chewed up a bearing. Trying to get to that today, only got it flipped over and the pan off yesterday. Ran outta time =P
Thanks. I guess that's unusual for a Cummins.
@@razor3003 Well, I bought it used. No idea how it was taken care of. And, to be perfectly honest, I could have done a better job myself.
Lesson learned. The silver lining is that, without that having happened, I don't know that I ever would have jumped into a project like this. Learning a lot, so ... something positive will come out of it. Also, DebossGarage gained a sub :)
@@razor3003 Now that I have it completely apart, I found the problem and the cause.
The oil pan gasket had completely blown out in a couple of places. It had not been burning oil before the trip, so ... I assume this happened at some point during the 8 hour drive there or on the way back before it broke down.
Lack of oil... The rod bearing on rod #1 has eroded considerable (the cause of the metal in the oil pan) and has fused to the rod. The rod is simple enough to replace, but there's quite a bit of damage to the crank shaft where that bearing was at. I'm not sure it can be machined or not.
Most informative 12 valve rebuild video on TH-cam! Really enjoyed watching it. Learned a lot! Thanks heaps
Thanks for a stock engine rebuild. I’m tired of all these high horsepower rebuilds.
These types of videos are replacing the old Chilton manuals. We are officially in the future. :)
Chiltons was never realistic anyway
I have rebuilt a few with the Chilton manuals and videos are much more helpful
Chilton's manuals were good guidelines and included specs for experienced mechanics. They were in no way textbooks. Deboss videos are more like tech school training sessions.
Yo i opened comments to like this comment and to my delight i already liked it last time i watched this video, lol.
@@toomanyhobbies2011 Good way to look at it I always thought well of Chiltons.
Your the first mechanic I have seen that videos the cleaning of surfaces on the bolt threads before applying locktite. Good job
You are the only video mechanic that has made a point of including the torque readings even for minor attachment bolts. I was trained as an aircraft mechanic and torque was the holy grail of engine assembly and all the control surfaces. Very professional presentation.
Rich reminds me of the old timer that taught me how to wrench. No frills, no wasting money and great information that is conveyed the best I’ve seen. Rich thank you for taking the time and forgive me for buying a 2019 eco diesel last week. If it’s any consolation I am keeping the 7.3 PS but the 2nd gens are getting expensive or are hammered here in Cali.
There are like a thousand of rebuild video's out there but what I like about this one is the "to-the-point" naration and focusing & highlighting on all the really important points without bulshit. Well done!
I don’t know why but I have no need to know how to rebuild a Cummings right now but I just love watch Deboss videos
wow, make me want to give this a try! Thanks for taking the time to do this, this will help so many people!
Please I will love to come to you to learn more from you so please help me
I love this dude. Keeping it old school af 🤙🏼
I'm a mechanic and I know mechanic's can be very critical of other mechanic's work. But you are spot on. Great work man!!
This guy is probably one of the best mechanics in Canada. This channel is one of the best on youtube. Highly recommended.
Man 6bt is waaaay more simple than a dmax, I can see why so many people fall in love with these things. Great video!
Not worth it. It's a $4000 truck scrap it and buy another one that runs.
@@jasonneels3760
^ 🤣
@@jasonneels3760 This whole channel is about preserving machinery from being scrapped as long as it doesn't show signs of irreparable damage - not throwing equipment away just because it's easier to buy yourself a solution.
From what I know the B series were made for over 40 years.
i just did this to my 24 valve. i spent 1800.00 with full machining, over sized pistons, and such. took me 7 months from start to finish and the machining took about 3 and a half months for the machine shop to finish the block/head. they didnt do any disassembly or reassembly, just machining.
Glad too finally see someone who does it right!! Yet does it as a normal mechanic would do!! Lotta these others do it by the book and every step?? Really! This guy does and knows the critical things yet still does it as we normally would!! Good job! Love a real video down too earth!!
My dad bought a 1995 12 valve 5 speed 4x4 brand new at the end 1994 and all it has ever seen for oil is chevron delo 400 and sometimes it has had the Lucas oil stabilizer. It is only at 215,000 miles now but it has never had an issue at all when it comes to the engine
One of the most detailed quality videos on engine rebuilding, reminds me of my college engine class
This repository of information will allow 12 valves engines to outlast the pyramids
Bro that was coolest line ever
For some reason I have the numbers 18 and 32 stuck in my head... Great video, Thank you Rich.
Ex mechanic here from way back. Looks like a nice job. You can put straight edge on the head and check for any warping. An old trick is to put two head gaskets on if the head has been ground more than once.
My friend just got a 91' Cummings and it needs some TLC. This video is indispensable. Thank you for sharing!
I Armando Rabino
Academia student.
I still focus watching the video. I'm very full knowledge. To watch a video, how to engine rebuild. To engine overhaul. Or engine assemble
This time I additional my personal experience. To engine overhaul. Step by step. Install all parts, and all acce
ssories
I love how you do everything by hand and dont use a impact like alot of other TH-camrs i see doing now. Its crazy.
another trick for pulling injectors is a piece of PVC piping that fits over the injector body, a washer that fits over the pvc and allows the injector end to go through and a nut that fits the threads on the injector. worked well for me, love how simple these engines are.
I Armando Rabino
Academia student
I watch the video very focus in my
eyes. My knowledge is additional in this time. My personal experience is add today. And I thank you.
That's a brilliant move bolting the engine to the stand by the side for extra clearance and work room. Never seen any one do it that way before.
"The Piston says Front on it, so unless you're Illiterate or a Moron, you can't get that wrong"
Haha, Genius.
Can’t wait till this spring, built my dream garage last summer now I gotta build my dream Cummins swapped truck.
The knowledge this guy has is impressive and would take me a lifetime to learn.
Never worked on a diesel but I love every vid you make on the builds.You do a fantastic job walking us through each phase.Cant thank you enough.
Buy some torque adapters. Or make your own by cutting off a box wrench and welding the drive side of a socket to it.
Dude I have never wrenched on an engine before and I really have half an idea what I am doing but somehow you are still so entertaining.
Hi had 5.7 gm diesel junk big time put 350 olds gas engine worked good. Had a couple 6.5s blew one 94 dually and 95 3/4 2wd not bad but low on power. Also started having numerous issues with 05 duramax traded on 04 Yukon with 5.3 and 05 Silverado 5.3 z71 simple to repair and affordable to run. Tim
I am looking at getting a 03-06 Ram 2500 Cummins and rebuiliding it. This will be my go to video when I start.
Great video. I would like to add a few things which I was taught. One is to clean the cylinder bores with ATF on white paper towels. Do this until the towels come out pink with no dirt. Another is to test the ring gaps deeper in the bore where the piston is pushing sideways or at least check the bore diameter down there. Lastly, I haven't seen the Cummins spec but it seemed that the honing angle was a bit much. When I went to high school we got to tear down, measure, and re-assemble Ford inline 6s. It was great! If a student acted up too much they got to bore a cylinder oversized. Great video, just food for thought.
I hate working on cars period,i guess cause i drove piles as a young man and had alot of bad experiences workin on em,and this was when u could change a fuel pump in 5 mins.i have a 12 v and wondered how much it cost to have it overhauled,which led me to these video.iv become addicted to em now.very well done.i could sit and watch him work on the cummin all day,as long as i dont get greezy.ha ha
A 2nd gen dodge ram lug nut is the same thread pitch as the injector lines. You can use a cut socket and a lug nut to pop them out, plus the lug is likely tapered making it even easier
I love watching you work on diesels, I spent many years on gas engines, there isn't a whole lot different when putting them together.
BTW my torque wrench is built into my arm.
Rick! Good trick for the kdp is to drive it in and center punch it and the case around the hole. That way it's free and no extra metal to ever possibly fall through the gears
I have done that on my own truck. I don't want to risk telling people to hit their timing cover and telling me they cracked it. I'm glad I'm not the only one though. There is some footage of this dowel almost all the way out when I first opened it up
I first started watching without even realizing it was 30 mins long, then all of the sudden it’s over and I just watched a entire 30 minute video without clicking off lol
Lol me too!
I am totally amazed at your knowlege and skill...if i had a cummins engine I know who I would want to work on it....
My go too Assembly lube is definitely k y personal lubricant you can even get it scented if you want &it’s cheap great for budget builds
Master at work here, thanks for the vids good sir and god bless!
Nice work... that ring opening location tip is smart for any engine. A little detail work makes the finished job look so much better as well.
picking up an ex library council bus to convert only reason why i got was cos engine is mint,the engine you have here.. actually its solid so I wont scrap the shell anyway good video. I`m in England and do everything on my own im 55
The best thing dodge ever decided to do was put a tractor engine in their trucks. I don't know why manufacturers don't do this regularly.
Koshunae EPA mandates and the state of California
My 1991 Mitsubishi Fuso FG is basically a tractor engine, they just last forever, like this Cummins.
Don't forget the VW ALH varients. They used them as industrial engines (AFD). Last long after the rest of the VW falls apart.
The 6.9 idi and 7.3 of the Ford that were built by IH would also last until way after the rest of the truck rotted.
@ Koshunae; Very true, I have a 7.3 in an old Ford that is still kicking, has almost 200K on the ticker...
Love your videos I’m an old Cummins engine mechanic on highway truck engines from way back
Your editing was awesome. Straight to the point! Bam... Not even click bait.
Thanks pal.
Why i love my Gear Wrench ratchet Wrenches but taking stuff out old school is always fun
Basic first generation Chevy small block rebuilding techniques; simple procedures with no drama! Your teaching method is straight forward and easy to follow and understand!
Thanks
I appreciate these videos. I know a lot about gasoline engines but I’ve never took the time to do the same about diesels. I’m interested in seeing the differences between the two no matter how minor they are.
20:54 get a set of pass through wrenches for that. Not needed, but for things like this and intercooler clamps or anything with a lot of threads and a nut to drive out those pass though's can work wonders.
Great video really like your channel. I am definitely a Cummins guy. I have had my mechanic shop for 25 years this year. Not saying it's wrong but I never pull the head removing or replacing the engine. Take radiator and condenser out side it in. It's wild seeing how different people do same thing different ways again really like your channel thank you and have a blessed day
Man this is a very good informative how to video I dont even own a cummins engine.
Great vid! I’m new to Diesel engines and this vid really answered a bunch of questions I had. Good work young man. This vid will be saved and watched over and over again. I will be watching your other vids as well.
Your in canada and already working outside!!! We lucky folks in minnesota are still getting pelted with snow! 😄😄
an inch of snow here today!
Another excellent vid Rich. I love the simplicity of the B series Cummins. Next time you are near a Car Quest, stop in and check out Klondike Brake cleaner. A case can be had cheap, always on sale.
I have never seen a car quest here in Canuckland
DEBOSS GARAGE Caledonia or Grimsby. I saw a 6 pack in the Bradford Carquest when I stopped in for some parts.
3M 8880 from Amazon, 24 cans, $80 USD
Best Engine Rebuilder.
Crows foot and Torque Wrench can get to the bolts. But then again test a few with wrench and Torque values. Then know how much to use.
Enjoyed the video, wish my VP44 had a P pump.
Best pedagogy on TH-cam. Nice.
I buy 20 litre pails of brake clean from bumper to bumper for around 80$ in Alberta. Use a pump sprayer and save a ton compared to aerosal. Worth looking into
i really like the detail you make things very easy to understand
Canadian rear neck-beard FTW. Never a bad video from this guy.
To help with quickly forming surface rust, you can use a can of canned air. It's not actually air and doesn't have oxygen and will stop a good bit of rust from forming while the water evaporates away.
You can also spray it with acetone which will help evaporate the water away.
You can buy a pack of those small rare earth magnets and use them to hold your lifters in place so you can flip the engine over and don't have to worry about installing the cam just to hold your lifters in place.
Bias plies sent me here and im not disappointed!
best injector puller i have seen on youtube. also great video!!!
And that's why you're DeBoss!
When in doubt 18ft.-lb
There is actually a manual that is available the tell you the torque of I was to say any bolt by using the shank measuerment and threads pitch and the threads per inch.its been a minute since i used it but i'm thinking im close on the variables.
J.W. Hunt Volvo has that type of "torque by diameter" table, I found it in Alldata and have actually applied it to other makes when I can't find a specific torque spec.
Don Olypopper You sure that's not just cause it's a powerstroke?
also thanks for the videos. i know its a pain in the ass to make a video as you're trying to do a job but it's really cool to see a cummins tear down and rebuild. or anything for that matter.
What I would do to torque the turbo flange studs to the correct torque is to take a crows foot on a torque wrench. I’d then calculate the length of the crows foot off the total length of the torque wrench and reduce torque setting accordingly. I can start on Monday Rich 😁
I’ve watched a few of your videos, you’re a master mechanic. Great videos
If you look up the procedure to calibrate a torque wrench then use a cross foot adapter and recalculate for the increased length you can adjust your torque settings on the wrench to get the 32 ft. Pounds needed on the turbo to manifold bolts.
You can verify your torque calculations by installing the manifold bolts using the crows foot set up and verifying torque with a separate torque wrench. (If you feel the absolute need to have the exact measurement)
On the plus side by learning how to calibrate your torque wrench you ensure the wrench is working correctly.
Calibrating the torque wrench can be done with a hand held aircraft luggage scale, a tape measure, pencil and scratch paper. It takes about 5 minutes.
The few people who gave this a thumbs down, need to be dropped in the middle of the Atlantic.
Powerstroke owners who already know how to build engines due to having to rebuild their PS evey 100 000km.
DEBOSS GARAGE ,
haha. the mighty powerstroke!
I love my diesels. I enjoy my duramax, that being said, I respect the 5.9.
The simplicity of them makes me want to throw one in a old crew cab, square body, 2500 chev I bought off of kijiji.
This video series is much appreciated, and is very helpful and indispensable to d.i.y.ers like myself and others who watch.
Keep up the good work sir! One day I'll see if you have some time for a lml duramax egr delete/dpf removal show. (50k more to go before warranty is off!)
Shouldn't that be 'P of S'??
Said it Perfect brother....
DEBOSS GARAGE ahahahah I know too many people like this 😭😭
gawd damn i’m so thankful for this channel. so much content
Nice to see somebody else baptism the pistons in a bucket of oil
on those hard to reach bolts like the turbo i make a cut down wrench and weld a socket to the opposite end and then use a little math to adjust for the torque with the extended arm.
Engineer 1: what should the main torques be?
Engineer 2: hmm maybe one as 18 and the other 32.
Engineer 1: why those?
Engineer 2: I don't know.
Engineer 1:👌
We actually have charts for all of these torque specs.
@POV Adventures I've never been called dumb but being referred to as weird and arrogant is not unusual for non-engineers who don't understand our thought processes or our twisted brand of humor.
@POV Adventures hell yeah!
I didnt really pay attention but im assuming this is for the same bolt type or cover. Theres a few things that would change the torque requirement of a fastener mostly having to do with the structure of the mating surfaces, surrounding features, and proximity to other bolts. Its also possible for manufacturers to experience quality issues (very small percentage) when assembling these components, so their practical solution may end up just by bumping up the torque specs of a few bolts to fix the problem, as opposed to spending way more money on new tooling to accommodate the issue. This is more likely with thinner aluminum covers and lower torques.
@POV Adventures You appear to be well versed in all the constraints engineers have to deal with. You certainly have a strong grasp of the written language. Try spending a day free of engineering, or even five minutes. Roof over your head... engineered. The computer or phone you are using, electrical, mechanical, and software engineers. Television..... silly engineers managed to not only get those satellites into space, but keep them there.
You may consider using mobil1 (or other synhthetic) oil for main bearing fitment. Do not use it for your break in oil, but you'll have a better feel for how the crank rides in the main bearings and hopefully find any issues before going too far.
I've been rebuilding marine diesels for 25 yrs. clevite bearing guard is my only choice for ass'y lube. It stays put! Just my 2c
in my opinion, the weight of the crank has no influence on the bearing cap considering the tons of pressure from the two cap bolts....think about it. Besides that, your craftsmanship is good.
Greatly needed bro!! Keep em comin.
A good way to get the oil through the engine is fill the sump and crank the engine over until you see oil at the top of the motor, obviously before starting.
I love watching your videos Rich. Informational and funny. Keep up the great work!
I always lap the valves by hand even if they look good, so much easier to do now than have to do it later and possibly have to cut the seats and grind the valves.
I buy brake clean by the 55 gallon drum. $350 and it last my shop a little over a year. The cans we use $100+ a month in cans. If y’all can buy it that way it’s way cheaper.
Just a fyi rings spin as the engine runs so positioning does not matter as long as there assembled with gaps opposite of each other its fine it doesnt matter if gap is pointed towards intake or exhaust
If you can bypass the distributor system in a diesel engine and just run the glow plugs all the time you can get a greater efficiency. Try it and verify on the tester.
Dude really cool watching you work, you obviesly know what your doing. Love you videos man keep it up.
Im gona be rebuilding my engine in a year or so (bmw v8)
Its pretty cool to see what you can do by yourself. Im pretty good with cars tho but i havent ever built an engine
A 440 thermostat is the same diameter as the 12v and its a 195° did it to my 12v and it has run much nicer in the winter. Didnt notice a difference this summer.
White Lithium Grease will also pull in moisture. If you're not gonna run it right away you'll get surface rust from moisture and acidity.
i didnt plasti gage mine when i built it. i trusted the machine shop to mic things and tell me what i needed to order when they were doing the boring and decking. im 2500 miles into my rebuild now so i guess that means i assembled it correctly and the machine shop was right? pushing 250hp injectors with compound turbos
Nice video.
Please note that the many chemicals in oil and grease can pass through your skin pores and enter your bloodstream (Dermal absorption).
Rubber gloves are essential.
Stick a couple pieces of rubber hose over the rod studs so it doesn't score if they bump the crank on assembly.
Hi Boss love your videos you are a great mechanic I have a 12 valve that runs good pulling 5 or 6 tons in level ground but in hills seems to loose power the motor has about375k I do see blow by what do you think is my problem
Es la bola de anos que tienes con tu troka
Next time you put pistons in, Instead of hammering them through the ring compressor with the hammer handle,
Poke youre hand in through the crank case and grab the big end and pull it through while you are rocking it from side to side a little.
You get more feel that way and less chance of breaking a ring.
Where the hell are all of these engines? Been around decades in cabs that are just itching to rot away, yet sill haven't seen a single unit in the wreckers that I regularly go, nor a Kijiji part out ad within 500 miles.
Dream project (well .. perhaps aside a diesel/nitrous hybrid rocket on the back of a coke bottle mopar, lol) is to stuff a 5.9 into a '69 or '70 Kingswood or something similar - stylin' service wagon that I could still afford to drive at $5/gal.
Great vid though.