Go for the bike, which fits you - heart might say something else. But not all riders can sit in a slammed position. 😁 Besides, many womens bib shorts tend to have a giant annoying chamois or are bulky in the VERY wrong places - Yikes to get chafing on very delicate private parts or having to wear a diaper!!! I always buy mens bib shorts for that reason. Manufacturers are getting better however. But there is still a long way to go for women's bib shorts.
Si's comment on "buying/riding the bike you like" and "cycling is emotional": spot on! And, in my opinion, Assos makes the most comfy bibs but the crotch area (at least on male versions) still looks silly and keeps me always ON the saddle and NEVER venturing off it. Haha... it's a bit embarrassing and draws needed attention from non-cyclists and spectators throughout a day.
It's all got to come down to enjoyment at the end of the day 🙌 Finding the bike, kit or clothing that fits you well is the key to unlocking cycling success!
Unless you're a pro, you can't really believe that you ride fast enough to make aero make the slightest difference? Yes you can descend faster, but so what? I find that ascending is so slow that going over a hill ends up about the same time as riding the same distance on the flats.
Assos are amazing. They are the absolute best for the "pirate" style bibs as well the full length (tights) My most comfortable bib short I own is from CHPT3 (David Millar). Hands down best!!!
I just repaired my tpu tube yesterday (piece of glass through the tyre) with the GP2 patches from parktools light rub with the sandpaper stick the self adhesive patch on no problems done over 100km now still doing fine. (Pirelli p zero tpu)
I've been using Assos bibs for the past three years and even between their Mille entry bibs and their S9 racing line, I notice a difference in the little things such as how efficiently the fabric wicks moisture and the smooth fit from the compression in the race version. Long story longer, I stay cooler in race bibs on a hot day and the choice of kit is good for an additional 15 to 20 watts on my NP over a two hour ride because I can hold higher power for longer without soaking through my kit and becoming uncomfortable. The downside is that I ended up shelling out north of 400 pounds for two new pairs of bibs this year and their winter bibs, while comfortable, were 400 quid for a single pair.
I agree. I had a similar exoerience with Assos. I used Castelli for a while but never felt the padding was confortable enough especially in their winter bibs, it lacked enought fabric on the crotch aere. I made the switch to Assos and Wow!! I'm never going back to Castelli again. Assos is super expensive but it works. I may have to remortage my house though kkkk.
I've bought Assos and it's my fav over Castelli. Never paid more than 139 for RSR S9. I get Werksteam S9 for 99 and RS Targa S9 for 129. Have 3 Castelli RC Pro for 79-99 dollars. They're more fragile, but feel fast. Assos chamois is superior though
Mixing components is what bike manufacturers do all the time, especially with trekking and MTB. Often the build may be called Ultegra and have only the rear mech that level, the rest one tier below or non-group specific (most often cranks)
Bib shorts; I used cheap amazon shorts for the first years of cycling, since that is what I could afford. Worked fine, but I also have a fairly padded (albeit not soft foam) saddle on my commuters. Now that I have a performance bike with a much less padded saddle, I started investing and testing various brands of name brand kit, as I catch them on sale. Based on yesterday's ride, Pactimo is currently the winner for comfort, especially given they are thermal shorts, and our summer sucked last year (you had more sun, if that tells you anything). I still use the cheap amazon ones for trainer workouts, and casual rides underneath normal clothing.
"...go for whatever your heart tells you to buy..." And therein lies the problem. It's not "your heart" telling you to "buy this and you'll be happy". It's the brain worms of industry marketing departments. Your heart doesn't care what bike you're perched on, it doesn't care about disk brakes, e shifters, aero tube profiles or wide tubeless tyres, it's happy just riding. Listen to your heart.
Finally got a few expensive bib shorts this year, and I won't go back. My favourites are the Castelli Free Aero and Free Unlimited shorts. For long days on multi day tours, the Unlimited were great - consistently . The pockets were a good size and I could easily hold my passport and wallet securely in the back pockets up under my jersey. The Free Aero are a bit lighter for longer day rides around town where pockets aren't as important. The Progetto 2 pad is simply amazing for long days in the saddle. Rab, the mountaineering manufacturer has made a good start for cargo bibs, but the pockets aren't as useful in the back as the Castelli, and the bottom of the legs are too loose with essentially no compression. The pad is quite good for long days, but not quite as good as the Castelli premium pad. Endura has a cargo bib, but the pockets are just plain silly and not useful at all. The pad is ok for shorter day rides, but I didn't even pack the Endura's for a 3 week touring trip with 100 km plus days every day. The true test of the Castelli and Rab pads was the fact that I never needed chamois cream at all on long days, even though the Castelli's were that little bit more comfortable. I'm sure there's lots of other good bib shorts out there, but these are the ones that I have experienced.
I use Endura, le col and Castelli bibs all excellent.. my endura fs260 I train in all the time and they’ve lasted a couple of years and still going strong excellent 😊 Pete
As far as bib shorts go it depends what you do if you are only riding for 1-2 hours you can get away with a mid range bib which are still really decent but if you do long rides you got to pony up for the good stuff good news is if you aren't bothered about having the current season colours you can just wait for sales and get the top end stuff for sometimes up to 50% off.
Very true, On those long rides a good pair of bib shorts is invaluable 👀 If only someone was having a Black Friday sale soon... cough cough https... ://gcn.eu/9Z ... cough cough 😉
True. Twice a year I do 10-12 hour rides. Generally in Bontrager clothing (I'm a Trek fan through and through) and their products stand the test. I do however have a couple of brands that although comfortable for 2-4 hour rides when I get up to 4 hours that is really their limit. I definitely do not mind paying more for quality for bib shorts
I have used everything from $25 Amazon bibs to $180 rapha and I won’t go back to the cheap ones. Once you find a good brand and style that fits well it is money well spent.
Haha why? He works for GMBN so he gets to ride the nicest stuff. However, his personal self bought things are probably more conservative. He's not rich but I wouldn't doubt he gets perks from time time
@@liquidSpinseveral weeks ago, Alex did a video about cheap upgrades. He pulled a Dura Ace crank out of a bin he had and counted it as basically free, if I recall. He rightly caught some flak for it, because we don’t all have bins of Dura Ace parts lying around. The OP here was just giving him a hard time. It’s funny. :)
#askgcntech The manufacturers say not to mix sealants, but I know lots of folks do, seemingly without problems. How about a tech video of mixing, matching, and testing results? Will a hole really open in the time-space continuum if we top off Stan's with Silca?
I bought a really nice Castelli bibshort (Aero Race 4) with their best chamois insert a couple of years ago... and it's the short I use the less, because the legs are *too long*, and I have to turn up the gripper on each leg for the short to "fit" properly. But man that chamois is soooo confortable... So I'm with Si on this one, buy the shorts that fit the best. You'll have less buyer's regret. I reall,y wish companies would stop making bib "shorts" with long legs!!!
They are great shorts, it just goes to show how important fit is! 👀 Their is trend for shorts to be getting longer, what is your go to big short? Have you looked at anything else in the Castelli range?
@@gcntech my favorite bibshort is an old model of Nalini bibs, a couple of which I've had forever. The fit is perfect, they're super comfortable, but they're getting a bit thin from so much wear :) Their new stuff looks really long too now though. Shame. Anyone has recommendations for shorter bibshorts?
To the bib short question: You will notice a huge difference between 50 euro bibshorts and 150 euro one's, but everything above that isn't noticeable for me and most of my cycling friends. And I totally agree with GCNs opinion on fit. Thats the most important thing.
For bibs, as almost anything else, the idea of buying the next best gets you the best quality/money ratio. The best always cost double and only give you 10-20% more. Try to squeze the inserts in any cheap bib with two fingers and you can flatten it totally, then imagine the force of your body on top of that. I found that Assos has the best inserts for riding although not so good for touring. If you are all sweaty and get off the bike at a site and walk for half an hour, the wet, salty insert wears the skin on your buttocks. So for touring and less strenous rides, I harden my nethers and use tri bibs with insert but no foam. They dry quickly and dont gnaw on your skin.
I got bib tights from Aldi for £5.00 and I wear shorts over the top. They are super warm and comfortable for a 3 hour ride. They take longer to dry on the line, so I'm not sure I'd want them to get wet on a ride. I can't afford big bucks for clothing.
Awesome! A prime example of finding the kit that works for you, you don't need to spend loads of money - it's all about getting out and enjoying the ride 🙌
#askgcntech Additionally to the question of @Craweats: What are the criteria for a good sealant and how do sealants work? Is it a glue losing the solvent or does it stick when in contact with air? Why doesn't it harden inside the wheel? (I'm in Germany using tpu and don't know if tubeless is worth the mess.)
Regarding patching TPU tubes: It will be most successful if the patch is pressed firm and flat with pressure on it, for a few hours, ideally. Also, regular "super glue" works fine. Result: You don't need to buy TPU patch kits... just cut an appropriate patch from the old tube, clean the mating surfaces with isopropyl alcohol, apply super glue, and flatten the glued assembly with some pressure for a few hours. Pro Tip: You can buy a small multi-pack of tiny tubes of super glue, sized for single use applications. Available at hardware stores and online, and great to have around the house for other uses of course.
Don't you get problems from the super glue drying flat and very brittle and then cracking with the expansion and curvature of the tube when inflated in the tire?
#askgcntech Hi there. Is there a Sealant that is actually capable of sealing in the wet? I had my first recognized punctured two days ago on a 35 mm wide Conti Gravel tyre and the Milkit stuff did not really seal. It was only pretty wet roads, not raining cats and dogs at all
Last year I got a pair of cheap eBay bike shorts. While they have been okish I would never recommend them to anyone. I have recently gotten a pair of the fdx ones. They are far superior to what I used to have. I would definitely get more of them. As for my budget they work well.
#askgcntech How Clean should a chain be (before reapplying lube, separate answers for both wet lube and wax)? I ask because I switched from the Park tool cleaner to a cheap ultrasonic cleaner, and however many cycles I run the liquid isn't coming off clean. Granted, I know the chain is sooo much cleaner even so.
GCN bibshorts waist measurments are sized unworn because the material is "so stretchy". How does that help anyone select the appropriate size? Also, no information or pictures are given of the chamois. Can't buy if I don't know what I'm buying or what size to buy.
Can you repair TPU tubes? I haven't tried this, and it would need a certain amount of care but there is a clue in the name. They are thermo-plastic. That means you can heat them and remold them so it should be possible to "smear over" the hole with a temperature controlled soldering iron, set I would suggest to just a little hotter than the melting temperature. It should become soft and mouldable at the softening temperature but for welding the melting temperature would be required, but it might need a careful touch. Something to experiment with, perhaps on a spare patch or the wrapping band that comes arround it.
I use as BIB shorts the YWYbike ones they are really cheap for bibs and they are so comfy even 2 or 3 hours on my Trainer no problems.:D i have also AGU shorts they are more expensive but there is not a big different that the price bump is legit:D
Zero Friction Cycling literally pours sand on the chains when he does lubricant testing to figure out which lubricants handle contamination well and which ones don't. So trust them! Wax is king! I've come home with my entire drive train caked with mud. All I did was hose the bike off and re-waxed the chain and the bike looked like it hadn't seen any mud at all.
It's different for women (obvious statement), and Assos bibs are the only ones for me. I used to get such pain but that has all gone now. I wait until they go on sale because they are very pricey but it's worth it.
I have Elite Diretto Xr turbo trainer. When using front wheel riser block , front wheel axle is actually about an inch higher from the ground comparing to rear wheel axle. Always had a back pain while on turbo and was wondering if this cannot be a reason …. Shouldn’t be wheels same height from the ground - bike levelled while on turbo trainer ? #askgcntech
#askgcntech : Hi guys, Deda handlebars and stems are all announced at 31.7 mm diameter. Can I fit a 31.7 mm Deda handlebar in a standard 31.8 mm stem ? What about a standard 31.8 mm handlebar on a 31.7 mm Deda stem ? Thanks for the great content, hopefully I'll hear the answer during my next Zwift training... Cheers
#askgcntech what is the best way to clean your bike after a wet, slushy / muddy ride that used the least amount of water? I don’t have access to outside water during winter because outside water taps are turned off to avoid frozen pipes.
Hi guys great show. My question is I've had a 2007 tarmac that failed on the stearer tube so reluctant to buy another carbon bike. Has carbon bikes changed enough that they will have a very long life span or am I better off buying a steel or titanium bike that would last the test of time? Also I've been looking at getting a frame bag which all vary in width. What width is the optimal size that doesn't impeach on riding? Thanks in advance Tim in devon
What a great question! We are big fans of carbon bikes here at GCN ( to be honest we love all bikes 😂) Modern carbon bikes are build amazingly well, that said a steel and titanium bike can become a bike for life. If you're struggling to choose a frame material we've got a great video on just this issue 👉 th-cam.com/video/vcOKfTnRIII/w-d-xo.html
I love GCN ty. My question is: I recently bought an Orbea Avant To use has a winter/training bike and it has Sora kit on it. I have a Sensa Aquilia all carbon and all Ultegra 8000 kit on it. Why is it that the Orbea seems to be a better bike? I'm thinking of swapping my 8000 Ultegra kit on to it and using the all carbon bike for training on, with the Sora kit on it. There is of course a weight difference That is quite noticeable. But am I being stupid thinking of this idea? Cheers People:)
#askgcntech Dear tech gurus! I'm considering getting power meter pedals and am wondering whether I need the double sided ones or if one sided is good enough. I'm absolutely no athlete but enjoy steep climbs and long endurance rides, and want to use power to pace my rides and monitor my progress (if any can be had after 43). Thanks in advance!
I wax, every cyclocross season eats a chain for me. I have resorted to taking my oldest chain off of my other bikes and put it on the cx bike, rather than buy cheap chains.
I think kit retailers are taking the piss. I recently bought a jersey shirt (Jakroo) for my local bike club ride with their name on it etc. and just the shirt alone was $120USD. It was made in China - barely any difference than a $25 knock-off jersey I previously bought online. Retailers like Rapha, Pedal Mafia, MAPP, etc have all their stuff made in China by the same dudes. Just slapping their names on it and marking it up $100+... Saw some $300+ bibs --- no thank you very much.
I wasn't aware SRAM chains used larger rollers. My SRAM chains look just like my Shimano chains. Either way, they're all "inch" chains. Pitch is 0.5 inches.
@larrylem3582 the 12 speed flat top chains use larger rollers. Only a fraction of a millimetre but I think will affect the way a wear gauge measures the chain stretch.
#askgcntech I bought an older carbon wheel set, but I don't think it is tubeless ready, can I use it anyway? And it is for rim breaks. Is there a way to make sure I don't destroy it from breaking?
if you happen to get a tyre which is a bit hard but not too hard to fit and doesn't pop off the bead seat back into the well when you deflate it, you must be good. There is a thing called tolerances and tubeless and non-tubelss rims are made to different ones, but custom fit overwrites these limitations.
#askgcntech Hi, guys, love your videos. I am now thinking about upgrading my bike from an 11 years old external cable routing rim brake bike to a full internal cable routing disc brake bike and I am aware of the complexity to servicing the headset of the new bike. I have seen many internal cable routing systems introduced by many companies, which one is the easiest to service? I can service my current bike by myself mostly with basic tools, but not sure how much more complicate is that going to be. Advice, please.
#askgcntech Will a modern aluminium rim brake road bike wheel be strong enough for gravel? I recently got my hands on an old touring frame that was saved from a scrapyard and I'm trying to turn it into a fun gravel bike for as cheap as possible. Unfortunately, gravel-specific rim brake wheels are hardly a thing and when you do find one, they can be pricey since they're so niche. A decent set of lightly used road wheels, however, are abundant and fairly affordable, and I have a friend willing to sell me his DT Swiss R460s for cheap.
Error correction - the new 12 speed Ultegra and Dura Ace Di2 groupsets are NOT perfectly compatible with the new 12 speed 105 Di2 or old 11 speed Di2 or other mechanical systems. The tooth design on new Ultegra/ Dura Ace Di2 is call Hyperglide Plus + and provides superior shifting performance, efficiency, and durability - and it's quieter too. As such, the chain, cassette and chain rings are all different. You can however swap between the new Ultegra and new Dura Ace if you want to save money, and in a pinch you could run the other components to get you home, but you lose performance and increase wear...with the latter negating any cost savings. I know it's confusing, but this an important piece of information that should be corrected. Thx in advance
Ollie, I bought a second hand TT bike, it came with an older disc wheel, I can't find an XDR free hub body for it so I'm running a 12speed Shimano cassette, chain and chainring but using SRAM derailleurs for electronic shifting with the blips to remove all cables. I know its not advised to mix component brands however it shifts perfectly, is there any massive downside to this apart from maybe a little faster wear? #askgcntech
Sorry but most of the recent Q&A it seems that they just want to rush through with answering all the questions. Lol. Aero frame or aero wheels? - just buy whatever you like How much money should I spend on bib shorts? - as long as it fits 😂
#askgchtech I'm considering a belt drive gravel bike with a Ti frame and internal gearing (rear hub). Other than the obvious ease of maintenance, how would a setup such as the Priority Apollo compare to a chain drive version for the price point of $4,000 USD?
Cycling about has a few videos with great explanations. Hub drives are more expensive, heavier and a tiny bit less efficient but might be cheaper on the long run since you don’t replace chain and gears. You can have wider gear range, perfect gear spacing, ability to shift at stand still and many more advantages.
Remember that you can't shift under load with internal gearing. So depending on what terrain you plan to ride in, it might be less than ideal. For commuting and touring, belts are great. For racing not so much.
@@mikedittsche This is definitely NOT a race bike. With all the drive train malfunctions at Unbound this year, I'm curious if a belt drive with internal gears in the back would've been more reliable, thus save time over the traditional chain/cassette system.
@@wspmjw I've been running a Gates carbon drive with an Shimano Alfine 11 internal hub gearing as a commuter bike for 2 years. The Alfine had to be serviced after half a year but Shimano covered the cost under warranty and the gates carbon drive had a defect after one and a half years, the plastic rear sprocket got damaged and the belt started to lose more and more teeth. The repair was quite expensive. But I heard that gates has revised the system and they don't use plastic rear sprockets anymore. I did enjoy the "no servicing" no waxing or lubing aspect of the system, however I am back to chain drivetrains again. And I have no idea how the belt would have fared off road as I was riding mine in the city. Can't imagine a pebble between the belt and the plastic sprocket would be good for the system but, as mentioned earlier, luckily they have done away with the plastic part.
We want to read your tech questions in the comments using #askgcntech 🛠
how can I convince my cat to stay in my bike's front basket while I ride?
Go for the bike, which fits you - heart might say something else. But not all riders can sit in a slammed position. 😁 Besides, many womens bib shorts tend to have a giant annoying chamois or are bulky in the VERY wrong places - Yikes to get chafing on very delicate private parts or having to wear a diaper!!! I always buy mens bib shorts for that reason. Manufacturers are getting better however. But there is still a long way to go for women's bib shorts.
Si's comment on "buying/riding the bike you like" and "cycling is emotional": spot on! And, in my opinion, Assos makes the most comfy bibs but the crotch area (at least on male versions) still looks silly and keeps me always ON the saddle and NEVER venturing off it. Haha... it's a bit embarrassing and draws needed attention from non-cyclists and spectators throughout a day.
It's all got to come down to enjoyment at the end of the day 🙌 Finding the bike, kit or clothing that fits you well is the key to unlocking cycling success!
Unless you're a pro, you can't really believe that you ride fast enough to make aero make the slightest difference? Yes you can descend faster, but so what? I find that ascending is so slow that going over a hill ends up about the same time as riding the same distance on the flats.
Assos are amazing. They are the absolute best for the "pirate" style bibs as well the full length (tights)
My most comfortable bib short I own is from CHPT3 (David Millar). Hands down best!!!
Si, is totally right. You need to love your bike both how it feels and how it looks.
Super important! Loving the look and ride will make you want to get out - it's that simple 🙌
I just repaired my tpu tube yesterday (piece of glass through the tyre) with the GP2 patches from parktools light rub with the sandpaper stick the self adhesive patch on no problems done over 100km now still doing fine. (Pirelli p zero tpu)
I've been using Assos bibs for the past three years and even between their Mille entry bibs and their S9 racing line, I notice a difference in the little things such as how efficiently the fabric wicks moisture and the smooth fit from the compression in the race version. Long story longer, I stay cooler in race bibs on a hot day and the choice of kit is good for an additional 15 to 20 watts on my NP over a two hour ride because I can hold higher power for longer without soaking through my kit and becoming uncomfortable. The downside is that I ended up shelling out north of 400 pounds for two new pairs of bibs this year and their winter bibs, while comfortable, were 400 quid for a single pair.
I agree. I had a similar exoerience with Assos. I used Castelli for a while but never felt the padding was confortable enough especially in their winter bibs, it lacked enought fabric on the crotch aere. I made the switch to Assos and Wow!! I'm never going back to Castelli again. Assos is super expensive but it works. I may have to remortage my house though kkkk.
I've bought Assos and it's my fav over Castelli. Never paid more than 139 for RSR S9. I get Werksteam S9 for 99 and RS Targa S9 for 129. Have 3 Castelli RC Pro for 79-99 dollars. They're more fragile, but feel fast. Assos chamois is superior though
Love Si's comment "Cycling is Emotional" Spot On!!
Mixing components is what bike manufacturers do all the time, especially with trekking and MTB. Often the build may be called Ultegra and have only the rear mech that level, the rest one tier below or non-group specific (most often cranks)
It's easy enough to do, match the speeds and it should be all good 🙌
@@gcntech _whispering_ you don't even need to match the speed in some cases.
Bib shorts; I used cheap amazon shorts for the first years of cycling, since that is what I could afford. Worked fine, but I also have a fairly padded (albeit not soft foam) saddle on my commuters.
Now that I have a performance bike with a much less padded saddle, I started investing and testing various brands of name brand kit, as I catch them on sale. Based on yesterday's ride, Pactimo is currently the winner for comfort, especially given they are thermal shorts, and our summer sucked last year (you had more sun, if that tells you anything).
I still use the cheap amazon ones for trainer workouts, and casual rides underneath normal clothing.
"...go for whatever your heart tells you to buy..."
And therein lies the problem.
It's not "your heart" telling you to "buy this and you'll be happy". It's the brain worms of industry marketing departments.
Your heart doesn't care what bike you're perched on, it doesn't care about disk brakes, e shifters, aero tube profiles or wide tubeless tyres, it's happy just riding.
Listen to your heart.
Finally got a few expensive bib shorts this year, and I won't go back. My favourites are the Castelli Free Aero and Free Unlimited shorts. For long days on multi day tours, the Unlimited were great - consistently . The pockets were a good size and I could easily hold my passport and wallet securely in the back pockets up under my jersey. The Free Aero are a bit lighter for longer day rides around town where pockets aren't as important. The Progetto 2 pad is simply amazing for long days in the saddle. Rab, the mountaineering manufacturer has made a good start for cargo bibs, but the pockets aren't as useful in the back as the Castelli, and the bottom of the legs are too loose with essentially no compression. The pad is quite good for long days, but not quite as good as the Castelli premium pad. Endura has a cargo bib, but the pockets are just plain silly and not useful at all. The pad is ok for shorter day rides, but I didn't even pack the Endura's for a 3 week touring trip with 100 km plus days every day. The true test of the Castelli and Rab pads was the fact that I never needed chamois cream at all on long days, even though the Castelli's were that little bit more comfortable. I'm sure there's lots of other good bib shorts out there, but these are the ones that I have experienced.
Yesss! First Grinding Paste I've heard in ages! ❤
I use Endura, le col and Castelli bibs all excellent.. my endura fs260 I train in all the time and they’ve lasted a couple of years and still going strong excellent 😊 Pete
It's great when you find the bib that fit you best 🙌
TPU punctures - I repaired several with a simple instant patch with no problems.
As far as bib shorts go it depends what you do if you are only riding for 1-2 hours you can get away with a mid range bib which are still really decent but if you do long rides you got to pony up for the good stuff good news is if you aren't bothered about having the current season colours you can just wait for sales and get the top end stuff for sometimes up to 50% off.
Very true, On those long rides a good pair of bib shorts is invaluable 👀 If only someone was having a Black Friday sale soon... cough cough https... ://gcn.eu/9Z ... cough cough 😉
Current season colours....you mean black?
True. Twice a year I do 10-12 hour rides. Generally in Bontrager clothing (I'm a Trek fan through and through) and their products stand the test. I do however have a couple of brands that although comfortable for 2-4 hour rides when I get up to 4 hours that is really their limit. I definitely do not mind paying more for quality for bib shorts
@@brannmacfinnchad9056 castelli do like 5 colour's of bib tights.
Que buen duo que tiene este programa
I have used everything from $25 Amazon bibs to $180 rapha and I won’t go back to the cheap ones. Once you find a good brand and style that fits well it is money well spent.
Schwalbe inner tube patches work and work damn well on TPU.
Alex saying Dura-Ace parts are expensive, interesting 🤔
Statement of the obvious?
Haha he's never going to live it down.
Haha why? He works for GMBN so he gets to ride the nicest stuff. However, his personal self bought things are probably more conservative. He's not rich but I wouldn't doubt he gets perks from time time
@@GilbertTangNever.😅
@@liquidSpinseveral weeks ago, Alex did a video about cheap upgrades. He pulled a Dura Ace crank out of a bin he had and counted it as basically free, if I recall. He rightly caught some flak for it, because we don’t all have bins of Dura Ace parts lying around.
The OP here was just giving him a hard time. It’s funny. :)
I ride dry gravel with a waxed chain. It does get a little noisy after about 50 miles, but it holds less grit and doesn’t create the grinding paste
Do you apply drip on wax on the go? ⚙️
Un video más del fabuloso mundo del ciclismo
#askgcntech The manufacturers say not to mix sealants, but I know lots of folks do, seemingly without problems. How about a tech video of mixing, matching, and testing results? Will a hole really open in the time-space continuum if we top off Stan's with Silca?
Re the patches. I’ve tested this recently and Park Tool self adhesive patches stick to TPU tubes better than anything else.
Yep! Absolutely worked for me on RideNow TPU tubes.
Me gusta dinámica y muy confortable para una pasion diferente y perfecta
Excelente explicación
Excelente video genial 😁 👍
I’ve had Assos and cheap performance bibs . I’ve always had good luck with gioradano less expensive bibs .
I bought a really nice Castelli bibshort (Aero Race 4) with their best chamois insert a couple of years ago... and it's the short I use the less, because the legs are *too long*, and I have to turn up the gripper on each leg for the short to "fit" properly. But man that chamois is soooo confortable...
So I'm with Si on this one, buy the shorts that fit the best. You'll have less buyer's regret.
I reall,y wish companies would stop making bib "shorts" with long legs!!!
They are great shorts, it just goes to show how important fit is! 👀 Their is trend for shorts to be getting longer, what is your go to big short? Have you looked at anything else in the Castelli range?
Unfortunately guys, my GCN Castelli bib shorts I bought are not often brought out of the wardrobe, and absolutely not for long rides. Sorry!
@@gcntech my favorite bibshort is an old model of Nalini bibs, a couple of which I've had forever. The fit is perfect, they're super comfortable, but they're getting a bit thin from so much wear :) Their new stuff looks really long too now though. Shame. Anyone has recommendations for shorter bibshorts?
Tubolito do a patch kit. I have bought one for the Tubolito tubes I've recently put in the tyres on my hyrbrid.
Una excelente entrevista
Bravo👏 good content
Excelente presentación
To the bib short question: You will notice a huge difference between 50 euro bibshorts and 150 euro one's, but everything above that isn't noticeable for me and most of my cycling friends. And I totally agree with GCNs opinion on fit. Thats the most important thing.
Fit first and everything else will fall into place! Have you found the shorts that fit you best?
@@gcntech Yes! And it's from a Local distributor! GTS-Sports.
For bibs, as almost anything else, the idea of buying the next best gets you the best quality/money ratio. The best always cost double and only give you 10-20% more.
Try to squeze the inserts in any cheap bib with two fingers and you can flatten it totally, then imagine the force of your body on top of that.
I found that Assos has the best inserts for riding although not so good for touring. If you are all sweaty and get off the bike at a site and walk for half an hour, the wet, salty insert wears the skin on your buttocks.
So for touring and less strenous rides, I harden my nethers and use tri bibs with insert but no foam. They dry quickly and dont gnaw on your skin.
I got bib tights from Aldi for £5.00 and I wear shorts over the top. They are super warm and comfortable for a 3 hour ride. They take longer to dry on the line, so I'm not sure I'd want them to get wet on a ride. I can't afford big bucks for clothing.
Awesome! A prime example of finding the kit that works for you, you don't need to spend loads of money - it's all about getting out and enjoying the ride 🙌
Halfords self adhesive patches work with ride now tpu
The Stunt Person - is that Hank's new job title?
#askgcntech Additionally to the question of @Craweats: What are the criteria for a good sealant and how do sealants work? Is it a glue losing the solvent or does it stick when in contact with air? Why doesn't it harden inside the wheel? (I'm in Germany using tpu and don't know if tubeless is worth the mess.)
Regarding patching TPU tubes: It will be most successful if the patch is pressed firm and flat with pressure on it, for a few hours, ideally. Also, regular "super glue" works fine.
Result: You don't need to buy TPU patch kits... just cut an appropriate patch from the old tube, clean the mating surfaces with isopropyl alcohol, apply super glue, and flatten the glued assembly with some pressure for a few hours.
Pro Tip: You can buy a small multi-pack of tiny tubes of super glue, sized for single use applications. Available at hardware stores and online, and great to have around the house for other uses of course.
Don't you get problems from the super glue drying flat and very brittle and then cracking with the expansion and curvature of the tube when inflated in the tire?
@@estelja Not so far. It seems to have enough pliability.
Muy buena presentación
Wax or lubricant, which is better in an everyday riding routine. I have a mountain bike, which I use for grocery getting, and etc.
#askgcntech Hi there. Is there a Sealant that is actually capable of sealing in the wet? I had my first recognized punctured two days ago on a 35 mm wide Conti Gravel tyre and the Milkit stuff did not really seal. It was only pretty wet roads, not raining cats and dogs at all
Last year I got a pair of cheap eBay bike shorts. While they have been okish I would never recommend them to anyone. I have recently gotten a pair of the fdx ones. They are far superior to what I used to have. I would definitely get more of them. As for my budget they work well.
Nice tech
#askgcntech
How Clean should a chain be (before reapplying lube, separate answers for both wet lube and wax)?
I ask because I switched from the Park tool cleaner to a cheap ultrasonic cleaner, and however many cycles I run the liquid isn't coming off clean. Granted, I know the chain is sooo much cleaner even so.
Muy buen comentario para las nuevas bicicletas
GCN bibshorts waist measurments are sized unworn because the material is "so stretchy". How does that help anyone select the appropriate size? Also, no information or pictures are given of the chamois. Can't buy if I don't know what I'm buying or what size to buy.
Excelente bicicleta ❤
Tubolito do a glue and patch option for TPU tubes now, and it's more reliable than the self adhesive types.
El increible mundo del ciclismo .
Can you repair TPU tubes? I haven't tried this, and it would need a certain amount of care but there is a clue in the name. They are thermo-plastic. That means you can heat them and remold them so it should be possible to "smear over" the hole with a temperature controlled soldering iron, set I would suggest to just a little hotter than the melting temperature. It should become soft and mouldable at the softening temperature but for welding the melting temperature would be required, but it might need a careful touch. Something to experiment with, perhaps on a spare patch or the wrapping band that comes arround it.
I use as BIB shorts the YWYbike ones they are really cheap for bibs and they are so comfy even 2 or 3 hours on my Trainer no problems.:D i have also AGU shorts they are more expensive but there is not a big different that the price bump is legit:D
Zero Friction Cycling literally pours sand on the chains when he does lubricant testing to figure out which lubricants handle contamination well and which ones don't. So trust them! Wax is king! I've come home with my entire drive train caked with mud. All I did was hose the bike off and re-waxed the chain and the bike looked like it hadn't seen any mud at all.
But he doesn't smear clay or black earth and nobody does as far as I know. So muddy conditions are still an open question
How about if Si buys the cheapest pair of bibs from Amazon and does a 100k ride on Amazon's cheapest bike?
It's different for women (obvious statement), and Assos bibs are the only ones for me. I used to get such pain but that has all gone now. I wait until they go on sale because they are very pricey but it's worth it.
I've used adhesive patches on TPU's and it's worked fine, to get home. But i wouldn't use them as a regular inner tube.
Any vinyl beach ball/kid pool patch kit works on TPU tubes, and they cost $1 or so.
I have Elite Diretto Xr turbo trainer. When using front wheel riser block , front wheel axle is actually about an inch higher from the ground comparing to rear wheel axle. Always had a back pain while on turbo and was wondering if this cannot be a reason …. Shouldn’t be wheels same height from the ground - bike levelled while on turbo trainer ? #askgcntech
Buen trabajo
#askgcntech : Hi guys, Deda handlebars and stems are all announced at 31.7 mm diameter. Can I fit a 31.7 mm Deda handlebar in a standard 31.8 mm stem ? What about a standard 31.8 mm handlebar on a 31.7 mm Deda stem ? Thanks for the great content, hopefully I'll hear the answer during my next Zwift training... Cheers
Wow i see🙌
#askgcntech what is the best way to clean your bike after a wet, slushy / muddy ride that used the least amount of water? I don’t have access to outside water during winter because outside water taps are turned off to avoid frozen pipes.
A garden sprayer with Luke warm water is what I used to use without outdoor hose.
Hi guys great show. My question is I've had a 2007 tarmac that failed on the stearer tube so reluctant to buy another carbon bike. Has carbon bikes changed enough that they will have a very long life span or am I better off buying a steel or titanium bike that would last the test of time? Also I've been looking at getting a frame bag which all vary in width. What width is the optimal size that doesn't impeach on riding? Thanks in advance Tim in devon
What a great question! We are big fans of carbon bikes here at GCN ( to be honest we love all bikes 😂) Modern carbon bikes are build amazingly well, that said a steel and titanium bike can become a bike for life. If you're struggling to choose a frame material we've got a great video on just this issue 👉 th-cam.com/video/vcOKfTnRIII/w-d-xo.html
Muy bien 👍
Impresionante 😲
I love GCN ty.
My question is: I recently bought an Orbea Avant To use has a winter/training bike and it has Sora kit on it. I have a Sensa Aquilia all carbon and all Ultegra 8000 kit on it. Why is it that the Orbea seems to be a better bike? I'm thinking of swapping my 8000 Ultegra kit on to it and using the all carbon bike for training on, with the Sora kit on it. There is of course a weight difference That is quite noticeable. But am I being stupid thinking of this idea?
Cheers People:)
Good 👍
#askgcntech Dear tech gurus! I'm considering getting power meter pedals and am wondering whether I need the double sided ones or if one sided is good enough. I'm absolutely no athlete but enjoy steep climbs and long endurance rides, and want to use power to pace my rides and monitor my progress (if any can be had after 43). Thanks in advance!
Cool 👍
Excelente
I wax, every cyclocross season eats a chain for me. I have resorted to taking my oldest chain off of my other bikes and put it on the cx bike, rather than buy cheap chains.
I think kit retailers are taking the piss. I recently bought a jersey shirt (Jakroo) for my local bike club ride with their name on it etc. and just the shirt alone was $120USD. It was made in China - barely any difference than a $25 knock-off jersey I previously bought online. Retailers like Rapha, Pedal Mafia, MAPP, etc have all their stuff made in China by the same dudes. Just slapping their names on it and marking it up $100+... Saw some $300+ bibs --- no thank you very much.
Yea it's a mark up, similar to home brand vs named brand items at the grocery store, same factory.
Is a chain "stretch " measurement device valid for a SRAM chain with larger rollers? If not, by how much is it out?
I wasn't aware SRAM chains used larger rollers. My SRAM chains look just like my Shimano chains. Either way, they're all "inch" chains. Pitch is 0.5 inches.
@larrylem3582 the 12 speed flat top chains use larger rollers. Only a fraction of a millimetre but I think will affect the way a wear gauge measures the chain stretch.
@@larrylem3582 you are correct that the 1/2 inch pitch is just the same as other chains like Shimano.
#askgcntech I bought an older carbon wheel set, but I don't think it is tubeless ready, can I use it anyway? And it is for rim breaks. Is there a way to make sure I don't destroy it from breaking?
Do #askgcntech before
if you happen to get a tyre which is a bit hard but not too hard to fit and doesn't pop off the bead seat back into the well when you deflate it, you must be good.
There is a thing called tolerances and tubeless and non-tubelss rims are made to different ones, but custom fit overwrites these limitations.
Buen video
Yes, perfec
#askgcntech Hi, guys, love your videos. I am now thinking about upgrading my bike from an 11 years old external cable routing rim brake bike to a full internal cable routing disc brake bike and I am aware of the complexity to servicing the headset of the new bike. I have seen many internal cable routing systems introduced by many companies, which one is the easiest to service? I can service my current bike by myself mostly with basic tools, but not sure how much more complicate is that going to be. Advice, please.
#askgcntech Will a modern aluminium rim brake road bike wheel be strong enough for gravel? I recently got my hands on an old touring frame that was saved from a scrapyard and I'm trying to turn it into a fun gravel bike for as cheap as possible. Unfortunately, gravel-specific rim brake wheels are hardly a thing and when you do find one, they can be pricey since they're so niche. A decent set of lightly used road wheels, however, are abundant and fairly affordable, and I have a friend willing to sell me his DT Swiss R460s for cheap.
Genial 👍🏽👌🏼
It also depends it you can get the shorts over your ankles.
Perfecto
Genial 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Fascinante
Error correction - the new 12 speed Ultegra and Dura Ace Di2 groupsets are NOT perfectly compatible with the new 12 speed 105 Di2 or old 11 speed Di2 or other mechanical systems. The tooth design on new Ultegra/ Dura Ace Di2 is call Hyperglide Plus + and provides superior shifting performance, efficiency, and durability - and it's quieter too. As such, the chain, cassette and chain rings are all different. You can however swap between the new Ultegra and new Dura Ace if you want to save money, and in a pinch you could run the other components to get you home, but you lose performance and increase wear...with the latter negating any cost savings. I know it's confusing, but this an important piece of information that should be corrected. Thx in advance
GCNs website never has any sizing info on it so how anyones supposed to order is beyond me
Genial 😁
PARK self adhesive patches fix TPU punctures easily.
Bueno 👍👍👍
Ollie, I bought a second hand TT bike, it came with an older disc wheel, I can't find an XDR free hub body for it so I'm running a 12speed Shimano cassette, chain and chainring but using SRAM derailleurs for electronic shifting with the blips to remove all cables. I know its not advised to mix component brands however it shifts perfectly, is there any massive downside to this apart from maybe a little faster wear? #askgcntech
SRAM and Shimano are cross compatable.
Sorry but most of the recent Q&A it seems that they just want to rush through with answering all the questions. Lol.
Aero frame or aero wheels? - just buy whatever you like
How much money should I spend on bib shorts? - as long as it fits
😂
Que bueno
Im thinking of upgrading from my road bike I bought on ebay
Do you have any suggestions for bikes or maybe just a price range?
#askgcntech
Get the blue one that cost $2900 with 105 mechanical.
I miss Si. He should be on more
👍🏻👍🏻
Muy buena
💪💪
Oh
#askgchtech I'm considering a belt drive gravel bike with a Ti frame and internal gearing (rear hub). Other than the obvious ease of maintenance, how would a setup such as the Priority Apollo compare to a chain drive version for the price point of $4,000 USD?
Cycling about has a few videos with great explanations. Hub drives are more expensive, heavier and a tiny bit less efficient but might be cheaper on the long run since you don’t replace chain and gears. You can have wider gear range, perfect gear spacing, ability to shift at stand still and many more advantages.
Remember that you can't shift under load with internal gearing. So depending on what terrain you plan to ride in, it might be less than ideal.
For commuting and touring, belts are great. For racing not so much.
@@mikedittsche This is definitely NOT a race bike. With all the drive train malfunctions at Unbound this year, I'm curious if a belt drive with internal gears in the back would've been more reliable, thus save time over the traditional chain/cassette system.
@@wspmjw I've been running a Gates carbon drive with an Shimano Alfine 11 internal hub gearing as a commuter bike for 2 years. The Alfine had to be serviced after half a year but Shimano covered the cost under warranty and the gates carbon drive had a defect after one and a half years, the plastic rear sprocket got damaged and the belt started to lose more and more teeth.
The repair was quite expensive.
But I heard that gates has revised the system and they don't use plastic rear sprockets anymore.
I did enjoy the "no servicing" no waxing or lubing aspect of the system, however I am back to chain drivetrains again.
And I have no idea how the belt would have fared off road as I was riding mine in the city.
Can't imagine a pebble between the belt and the plastic sprocket would be good for the system but, as mentioned earlier, luckily they have done away with the plastic part.
♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️
Bien
❤❤❤❤