The engineering that goes into this car is very impressive. To me, it's fun to drive, sort of like a game (at least once the engine warms up). The most efficient traveling 'mode' is to be truly coasting, with your foot resting very lightly on the accelerator to prevent regen. That eliminates energy transfer, which is more efficient than regening the energy into the battery. You can do this a lot in city driving, such as coasting up to a red light that is 2 blocks away, if you are on a slight downhill which allows you to hold the speed of traffic in that 45mph or under speed. It's called pulse and glide. You use the engine power to get up to speed, then glide(coast). Driving with no foot on the accelerator will cause a small regen load (like engine braking in a normal car). This is fine if you need to get your battery charge back up. Many people think that driving in electric mode if best. But that is only true when the load is very low - such as in parking lots and steady speeds under 20mph typically. You only have a very small range in electric mode. The car is not designed for that. The ICE is most efficient under heavier load and at higher speed. The car's computers do most of this for the average driver, switching between modes without you thinking about it. But you can improve efficiency by minimizing time that either the ICE or electric motors are doing anything. Avoid drawing prolonged full EV power when above 15mph. It's really all about anticipating the next 5-20 seconds of driving up the road. No reason to go full speed up to a red light when you have to stop anyway. Often times you can time a light to the point where you can avoid stopping altogether. Truckers do this, because it reduces wear, less shifting and saves fuel. There is of course limits to this, you don't want to crawl at low speed with traffic behind you.
That's right and way back, I heard that Audi was trying a system where the car would know what the traffic lights are going to do and would time itself to sail through them.
@@b43xoitas if there Is any rhyme or reason to when the lights change 😭. Lol the city where I live the lights are timed so horribly. They need ai to control them its so bad.
I find it amusing that my fellow Prius drivers frequently preach about not going to a faster speed than needed and coasting all the time to improve efficiency- while all this is true, why I find it funny is that the entire point of owning a hybrid vehicle is to mitigate these inefficiencies. All the advice we apply to hybrid vehicles are actually much more true for conventional ICE vehicles- since there is no regenerative braking, you better not be punching it in between stoplights. In a hybrid, while yes it is more efficient to use less power, it actually makes far less of a difference. Unnecessary acceleration and stopping will take you from like 50 to 45 instead of 30 to 15. The main difference is you want to make sure you brake very early so it's low torque and you don't engage the hydraulic brakes. You didn't buy a hybrid vehicle to use friction to stop like a caveman. Granted, the motors are more efficient at lower torques. But this mostly matters for braking, not so much accelerating, because when you accelerate it's primarily using the engine anyway, with the motors just helping out. You can see this if you install Dr. Prius and observe the battery charging/discharging current (directly proportional to power). Regen braking charges at up to 100 something amps (depending on battery health- mine's pretty old so it only gets up to about 80) before hydraulics kick in, stealth mode driving discharges up to a similar rate, but when you're accelerating with the engine it drops to more like 10A.
THANK YOU, I've been scouring the Internet trying to figure out what's actually going on under the hood of these things, and this is a great teaching tool!
Excellent video, Thank you. All my cars are conventional and as such I have not yet had to learn about hybrids, The day will come when I do have to own or work on one though and your video made the Prius at least, much easier to understand. I was trained in the early 90's and of course we didn't cover anything like this.
Hi, you're a genuine lecturer who're able to explain those very complex mechanical stuff in a very understandable laymen non-mechanic people like me... Thank you very much Sir. I have some questions base on your explanation; 1. The MG1 gets the power from 12v battery only. Not from HV battery. And MG1 would be the one which kick off the ICE using the 12v power. So in case the 12v battery is drained, we can do jump-start from another vehicle to kick off the ICE, right? Am I correct? 2. What if the HV battery is totally drained too, for eg. if we put the Gear at N for very long time and all the electricals are ON too, which end up both HV battery & 12v battery drain. If we just do jump start the 12v battery, will the ICE kick off back? (while the HV battery drains too...) Thank you very much Sir.
The "Power split device" is actually a differential gear set. The hydraulic CVTs that agricultural tractors have use the same layout ,except they use hydraulic pumps/motors instead of electric motors
It transmits rotations like a differential, but the power split device uses spur gears (cylindrical) and a differential uses conical gears, so that the input and outputs can be at 90 degrees. A power split device could be made with a differential too, but those tiny internal gears would experience 1000x more rotations than they were ever intended for.
@@robertoguerra5375 It is a differential. A differential is any gear set that gives two differential output speeds for one input speed depending on the loads on the output shaft. That is why it is called a "differential" and not a pumpkin or a blowfish.The differential on my ride-on mower has no bevel gears it uses only an epicyclic gear set. The nature of the gears used to achieve this or the angles of the input shaft or output shaft is entirely irrelevant. The differential on my ride-on mower has no bevel gears it uses only an epicyclic gear set. It is analogous to a differential amplifier in electronics
I may have to watch this again incase I miss something. Trying to learn a little about my Prius. I’m old school and graduated from automotive school in 1981. Front wheel drive was barely out then! Lol
Fantastic video! What a great simulator you've created. I have a Prius and now understand and really appreciate its internal workings and all it does to create great MPG in it.
I own a 2013 Prius and another Gen 3 CVT that I invested in with the goal to make a 3-phase generator (alternator technically first and foremost) using a Briggs & Stratton 18HP opposed twin somewhat sentimental since was there hybrid car engine and I want to limit what power I can output in the initial design. Your video showing the demonstrator is excellent as well as your detail regarding how the engine, MG1 and MG2 function. I look forward to testing to see what the voltage and current profiles look like (Hz mainly) at the range of RPM's. Appears using the CVT without any custom fabricated MG casing (including with cooling unless I invest in another Prius-C CVT). My brake pads in the front are at ~260K miles and the rear most likely would have made as far though the passenger side lower caliper pin siezed and cause the pad to wear uneven so I replaced the pads... with amazement how the runout and thickness of the rotors were at worse 1/2 worn and at best 1/10th worn. That was at I think ~190K miles. I notice you say "stator" when I think as "rotor." Is that correct? Finally, do you happen to know what the frequency of the MG1 and/or MG2 (either one) is output? I'm guessing seeing the RPM and being 3-phase I can determine once I find out the number of windings... though I still need to study more since is I think an asynchronous alternator design being brushless. So will have those funky output variables without a load/resistance. I also want to make an AC/DC welder and seems a plasma cutter can be made from as well. These are the neatest to me and I am amazed the pricing since they last so long... that's nuts to me! Anyways, those specs for the MG1 or MG2 would be awesome to know since I'm wondering what the utility of the outputs will be as-is and then what all else will need to be made or used from the inverter/converter (I also invested in 3 more of those to have the parts since pricing was crazy on the half off self serve salvage yard days) to be more practical 3-phase (or single) 220 or 120VAC or maybe even 480-600VAC. If you know or have any reference, please share! Thanks again and awesome man! Very inspirational to learn to work on and seems like a great career.
Yes, thanks for checking, I appreciate ya. I've posted on there under my FB James Analytic where seems I think I have a handle on the needs, though would be great to see others inspired to do the same or similar. I even did a little work editing the Wiki on the related to references I think this video as well if I recall correctly. Haven't been active working on since moved in to this last house, though I don't plan to drop the project either. Literally, was looking to pick parts again maybe. A challenge to see the parts go to the shredder or crusher when such high quality already made. @@906MediaProductions
Very informative. I was under the impression that there was still a mechanical connection between the engine and driveline, and that there also was a transmission. So to an extent MG1 acts somewhat as a torque converter/transmission (OD as you say) when under acceleration-something I never realized.
Yeah same here and that was surprising/deceptive at first because the engine is running of course while they zip up to speed... I too did not expect *all* the power to go thru wiring before hitting the wheels. I'm assuming this is the "synergy" part of it... complete management of the energy
ThankI am Prius owner and my DC to DC Inverter failed and Dealer replaced free because of my warranty. Nice to know how everything works. I get 50 MPG and can go over 600 miles between gas fills :)
Very good video, one of the only videos i've really found that can explain hybrid in detail without making my brain hurt lol. Just one question, I was a little lost when the control panel "opposite rotation" does that mean that MG1 and MG2 are turning in opposite directions?
Yes, notice that whenever the vehicle is moving forward, MG2 is showing "opposite rotation." But at the end, in reverse, the light is out for MG2. MG2 is directly connected to the drive train and will rotation 'opposite rotation' when the car is moving forward and 'normal direction' when in reverse, always. However, since MG1 works in tandem at times with the ICE, it can run in both directions. If the ICE is off and the car is moving forward, it more or less freewheels and rotates in 'opposite direction' is tandem with MG2. All bets are off so to say once the ICE is started because now MG1 has to have a relative speed to the ICE to control the ICE's rpms as well as starting the ICE. Coming out of stealth mode we see MG1 has to rotate in the normal direction to start the ICE.
Hey Ken Great video. Awesome cutaway. Go! Snap-on Life long technician with Ryder first time owner of this power train. Just started researching and your video was the first one I clicked on. This is a great design. I was gifted a 2011 with 165k and I love it so far.
@@guydamico85 I’ve seen all these issues at various miles, a few at the 80k range and I haven’t seen many make it to 200k miles without at least one happen.
Great video! Explains a lot. I have a question for you. I have a 2005 prius hybrid that I had to replace the brake accumulator. We had to disconnect the inverter and move it to the side to get it out. The accumulator was bad but the inverter wasn't. After the job was done when you go to put the car in drive it bangs really bad for a second and then the triangle of death comes on.we are waiting for a scanner to bleed the brakes but we did bleed them manually and got a lot of air out. There is other lights on also. The cil,brake light, abs,and maintenance light,and the one with the explanation mark in it. It ran fine before the work was done? Are they on bc it needs to be bleed properly and could we have accidentally hooked up a wire wrong? Also the car doesn't want to go into gear.
Seeing how simple this design is, i don't see there is much that could get damaged, if something can get damaged at all, if someone does not change the transaxle fluid, and go as far as 200,000 miles [which as happened a lot]
Agreed, to a point. There isn't much to fail in a differential on a RWD car, which has a much more durable fluid. We change the fluid in those. I'm not really sure what the correct answer is. I will say I have not seen a transmission failure yet that isn't an electrical problem. Thanks for watching!
Is that to mean the transmission fluid is still original? I'm curious because I just purchased a 2nd gen with124k, I'm a little nervous because the tranny fluid was apparently never changed.
@@QuincyStick no transmission fluid changes?? I just bought two 08 second gens, one with 98k and one with 160k don't know if anyone's ever changed it or not but I suspect it will be one of the first projects.
I had a 2013 Prius and the first long trip I ever took with was through some rolling hills for a lot of miles. When I got to the 3-way stop in Coudersport I spent a long time at a stop sign and that car kept turning the gas engine and stopping. Did it like 7 times to discharge the traction battery to a safer level. I'd never experienced that before and was concerned... "Shit! I owe a lot of money on this car... is it broken?" I drove another 60k trouble-free miles with it before a long legged woods rat leapt in front of me. Side note: That car's traction control system was all-the-bad! The slightest bit of slip and snow made the whole car give up on life.
Agree with the stability control. I came from a Jetta GLI to my CT200h and the stability control and ABS is poop on these cars comparatively. Thanks for watching!
What is energy circulation all about? Why would you put that extra resistance on the shaft? You said around 23:45 "MG2 is both generating power and giving power out". How is that possible and what does that mean? And how does that make it overdrive?
I think his explanation is confusing. And I think "energy recirculation" is a method to get the effect of a higher gear without changeable gears. In a conventional transmission, a high gear allows high wheel speed while maintaining low engine speed. To do that with the Prius drivetrain, the control system has to shift energy via the electrical pathways. MG2 is connected to the wheels through a fixed-ratio geartrain. MG1 is on a differential between the engine and the wheels. Assume the battery is neither taking nor giving energy. What has to happen with the two motors? Talk about speed first, and from that try to infer the directions of flow of energy. MG1 has to add speed. Therefore, it also has to add power on the mechanical side. Therefore, it has to take up power from the electrical side. If we are not drawing from the battery, this power has to come from MG2. Therefore MG2 has to take up mechanical energy. It takes it from the ring gears, which are driven by the engine and MG1.
Thorough! I hear caliper piston alignment on the brake pad is a concern when installing new brake pads to avoid uneven wear. How would you recommend that?
Great video! That's just a flywheel/damper between the ICE and MG1, right? (not an auto-clutch or anything) Too bad the trainer doesn't split open MG1 and MG2 stators - could be useful to see what the MG rotors are doing in various modes!
I also grabbed a few other parts to have on those half off sale days; inverter pump and washer fluid pump as well as an AC compressor. Do you know what the electrical specs are for the AC compressor? 12VAC, 120VAC, etc.? Voltage, Current and Frequency would be awesome to know from the expert. Thanks again for sharing!
Gen 1 compressors are mechanical. Gen 2 are AC, Gen 3 and 4 are DC. The voltages come directly from the traction battery but vary by control module regulation compared to cooling need.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Interesting! Amazing the price of the Gen 2 parts that seem to never need to be replaced. I really want to invest in a 1.5L hybrid system and am debating making something like the demonstrator to study with. Seems like, other than the battery, the whole system can be had for ~$500-$1000 and maybe better if found on a half off sale. Amazing even the pricing most likely under $1000 if not a pick your parts find. So, the Gen 3 can operate from 220VDC on down? Guessing some form of pulse modulation vs continuous DC? Seems I read 120V somewhere, though forget offhand. Will be interesting to be able to very carefully measure V as well as clamp on with a current clamp to see the waveforms on an oscilloscope. Just brought home two Tektronics portable carts since I'm still working on the cost effective acquisition and where needed restoration of the lab test equipment to measure everything safely.
LKQ used to have 50% off or other % off sale days seems pre-COVID. After that two of my local yards stopped until recently. Basically, have to call around to your local yards and see if they're having 50% or other percent off sale days and when. My two you usually have to bring like $25 worth of the item they want to donate to a local charity for the discount to start. So, like spending more than $50 in the yard starts saving money. @@whatsit2ya247
@@AutoScholarwithMrBmy 2002 gen1 will shut its engine off when I stop at a traffic light, but the air conditioner keeps blowing ice-cold for a solid minute. The air then will progressively get warmer and once the engine restarts automatically (about 15-20 seconds later) it cools off again. I'm SURE this thing has some sort of thermal storage evaporator core, because I don't hear an electric compressor running.
Just found. Your channel and going through some videos. Highly underrated channel and excellent presentation. Wish you did more Prius and Volvo stuff. My two cars. :)
Just wanted to thank you for this masterclass you have provided. It is clear that the whole package created by Toyota is a masterpiece of the automotive engineering and it is far away from rest of OEMs in terms of hybridation technology. I am owner of a 2023 Corolla with 5th gen of hybrid system and sure the function is the same. However I just wanted to ask you for a question. If driving with my car (with 140 HP) through a hill and the battery starts to drop down to that lower limit of 20% but I push the throttle as I need to overpass another car, is the system capable of providing the full power of the engine? Can the MG2 recharge the battery an provide power at the same time to make available those 140 HP or the power is lower?
Thanka you for the knowledgeable video I have little doubt. What is the current generation by the MG1 motor and what is the current made by the MD2 while brakeing Plz answer this question if anyone know about this
It is more reliable honestly. I've never heard of one with a bad transmission (and I peruse prius chat forums quite a lot), and mine has 240k on the clock without ever having a transmission/diff fluid change and still drives like a dream.
Nope. The car manages the battery through software. If it needs charging, the engine runs to do so. As long as the car hasn't sat undriven for weeks, the battery shouldn't be critically low.
So instead of being the main propellant,the engine here in this system only assists the motors, at 100mph it only revs as high as 3k rpm with the help of MG1 as an overdrive.that’s why the Prius is slow as a snail
Hello there! Thank you very much for the useful video! I'm not very familiar with the hybrid cars and honestly wasn't really interested in them until recently. I have fully committed myself to EVs, and began to think about converting retro (and not so old) ICE cars. However after watching your video and a few others I began to think whether it makes sense to include in this group for conversion hybrid and plug in hybrid cars too!? They are after all half electric to put it this way. For example Toyota/Lexus have some models which have powerful enough electric motors to move the car on electricity only, in this case is it possible to remove the ICE from the car and use it as electric only? Of Course battery capacity has to be increased and few other changes to be made. My question is if this conversion makes sense, could you please point which models are the best candidates? Regards, Thanks!
Unfortunately I don’t think removing the engine would make a road worthy car. This drivetrain needs the ICE to manipulate the power split device to exceed 45 miles per hour. Thanks for watching!
Huh. I have a 2nd gen Prius and I thought that when you let go of the gas, coast and not touch the brake that MG1 and the engine were applying that slight braking force, and MG2 only started regenerative braking when the brake was applied. I assumed this because when I had my catalytic converter stolen, I could hear the engine being spun by the engine any time I let go of the throttle. Basically a lighter version of B mode at higher speeds. And it would change again when touched the brake (though I’m 100% sure on that last one)
Hi, this is an old post but perhaps I can get some technical questions answered. I swapped engines and transmissions as well as the inverter on top of the engine. I’m getting a red triangle as well as the lights as if I was out of fuel. My gas gauge works intermittently. My questions are this: is it possible that there is a ROM pack in the transmission or inverter that prevents vehicle from starting or is it due to the hybrid battery getting so low as to not go into “Ready” mode and start the gas engine?! My educated belief is that the Hybrid battery is too low since it sat for two months all winter in Canada. Other question is, if this is the case what is the easiest way to charge the Hybrid battery? Do I take it apart and charge individual cell packs with NiMh charger? Is there an easier way to bypass it and charge with something else? I have the old transmission and could build a until to spin the transmission and thus create a charger unit.
If it has been sitting for a long time, you may have to pull the battery and rebalance every cell. There are videos on TH-cam of people do this with hobby chargers, but I don’t have one unfortunately.
How does the gasoline engine deliver power directly to the wheels when we need high speeds? Through MG1 or MG2? Hondas have a separate clutch gear for high speeds and the engine is directly connected to it. But I could not understand this situation in Toyotas..
Pretty much everything about it is drive by wire or computer controlled. Even the stick returns to center when you put it in D. A thing that was missed in Gran Turismo. If you do that while driving, it does not do anything. Simple as that. Foolproof, in any way.
So if the air conditioning compressor is not running off of the engine, does this mean that it will consume the battery like an electric car? Is it more efficient than a traditional car?
@@shiriajin yes, the ac depletes the battery. They are much more efficient because they can turn at the needed speed, not whatever rpm the engine is at.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I used to have a town car, every time I turned on the air con while I’m driving, it broke the compressor. Now I have developed the habit of turning the AC on or off when I’m stationary. I don’t have to do this with this kind of car right? I’m trying to get as much information as possible about these engines because I’m thinking about buying a hybrid corolla.
You're fucking awesome mate. Thanks for sharing ur knowledge and expertise.u have my subscription. Keep up the good work. No waffling n all that bollocks.just straight concise delivery of information. Thank you very much
What I want to know is the starting process. How does it turn the engine? I am working on a BMW X6 hybrid and I hear activity like turning as I press start button and transmission seem to be spinning but engjne is not being turned. It stay stationary, thus the car engine won’t start and car throws hybrid power train code
The engine is directly connected to the planetary carrier. To put any torque on the engine, it's necessary to hold the ring gear still and torque the sun gear. And what's the sun gear connected to? MG1, right? But that's the Prius. The BMV could be a wholly different story.
Hey Mr B, i do have a question for you. I have a 2010 Highlander hybrid v6 Limited 162000 miles. The motor and transmission mounts are all recently replaced with factory parts. When the gas motor takes over for the electric motor, it's not always smooth. Sometimes i dont notice. other times it's rather jarring. feels like a dull thud or shake. It could happen at idle or under acceleration from a stop. Any ideas where this could be coming from? this is my first hybrid and i bought it used so not sure if this is normal behavior. Thanks!
If I wanted to connect a solar panel to battery while it's running how many volts I have to apply to prevent overcharging? Since it's 7.2 v per unit so 28 of them will be 201.6 v. So if I apply 201.6 volts from solar panel will the battery be safe?
I have a yaris hybrid 2013. Sometimes the car does not turn on the engine even when The RPM is above the point where Ev should break and engine should turn on, it accelerates silently and display shows power going from battery to the engine. 2) sometimes when battery is on 2 cells, when Ev breaks, car jerks out of it. The transition is not smooth. Feels like car laggs first, then turns on engine. Other than that it works fine. What could be the problem?
Came to this video to see if I can discover wether or not the 10,000 miles worth of oil life is actually more than that based on the % of mileage that was allegedly electric, but based on the trainer is seemed that the engine still is running most of the times above 30mph because it doesn’t know when it will be needed 🤔 If anyone smarter than me knows the actual answer that would be cool. In trying to learn if the recommended 10,000 miles for oil and filter change is actually overly conservative due to the hybrid nature of these cars. I run a Prius prime that claims ~75% of my drive was electric usage, so theoretically it would mean my engine is only getting “2,500 miles” of use if I understood correctly, but I’m way too sheepish to actually attempt to milk the full theoretical ~40,000 miles before an engine oil change would theoretically need to be done (assuming 75% electric usages and miles being done before time degrades oil integrity) Thoughts? Can a Rideshare driver get away with milking 20,000 miles before doing the oil and filter changes due to electric use and the engine being used less than what the odometer reads, or is the engine in fact being used for the full 10,000 miles as per the odometer and thus the oil change is in fact perfectly timed?
I change the oil in mine every 5,000 but that’s probably overkill. If you really want to get to the bottom of it, you could send your used oil off to get it analyzed. I’m thinking about doing this to compare oil quality.
My 2013 Prius with 200 k miles have a hard time to accelerate it’s slow hybrid battery charging fine shows normal , no warning lights ANY idea please advise
My original hybrid battery indicate some issues on dashboard from time to time by one strange cycle when it is charged up to 100 instead of 80% like used to be. What should I do before I get code?
Is the battery balanced? I would check voltage with each battery block and make sure they are close to each other in voltage. Do this while the battery is under load, like when the car is under heavy acceleration. This can be done with most scan tools. If a cell is weak you have a few options, depending on your skill set and time/money you want to invest. “Refurbished” batteries are popular, with many people selecting companies like Green Bean to come and replace your battery and offer a warranty. You can also remove the battery, replace the cells with new ones, and reinstall. I hope this helps, and good luck with your car!
I had a Toyota Aqua rental car that did this after leaving the lights on, Just charge the 12v battery or jump start it. In some models the 12v battery is under the rear seat.
Gen 4 when you slowing down shuts engine off in any speed, unless battery overcharged. Even on flat road I can go in EV at high speed for a little. At least this how work with lithium battery, not sure if it’s same with old style battery. Gen 3 will drive in EV only under 45 mph, even if you go downhill, engine never shuts off, very little power. But I found if battery depleted, to recharge it, your average mpg will go down. Look like it better to keep battery not less then 70% charged. Needs to much energy to recharge. Gen 4 actually benefits if I using as much as possible battery power, much less energy to recharge it.
Hi Sir . please can you tell me again how can i find pin 1 and pin 3 on INVERTER HYBRID TOYOTA GEN4 P610 ON Inverter its 2 connecters one (24pin ) another connector (13 pin ) pleas if you tel me hwo can I connect power 12 volt to run InverterI will be very grateful to you
Sir I have problem with my prius 2011. When air conditioner is on and driving on 20 30 mph local street. I got battery problem sign. When I drive 50 60 mph then air condition doing fine and battery doing fine. Can you suggest me what's wrong with it
@@AutoScholarwithMrB but did not get battery cell weak code yet. I want to change battery, But totoya dealership said they checked battery , Battery is fine. It might be some thing wrong with inverter converter. AC attached with inverter converter
Great video, but if you turn the car off, it’s not just gonna start up at anytime. You have to have it on, and that requires the key inserted, (or near car if smart key) and foot on brake while pressing the start button. They don’t just start Willy nilly.
I agree, I am not sure I see the need to disconnect the 12v Aux battery, unless you are disconnecting wires / risking a short circuit. There is still a lot of short-circuit current available from even a small AGM battery!
I am not a mechanic, but am a Prius owner. How my car actually works has always been a mystery, till now. Thanks!
Thanks for watching Ken!
Just got a hybrid mini-suv. I absolutely love it.
So now I'm trying to figure out how it all works.
It ' s Like knowing the anatomy of your own body
I have question. Do you have courses with certification?@AutoScholarwithMrB
@oscarvanegas63 we are a college, so we do. Personally I do not offer anything through this channel. We are located in Augusta, Georgia.
2018 Prius owner here my brake pads are 50% at 120k miles amazing!
Same here, I’m at 170k
I got 126k
The engineering that goes into this car is very impressive. To me, it's fun to drive, sort of like a game (at least once the engine warms up). The most efficient traveling 'mode' is to be truly coasting, with your foot resting very lightly on the accelerator to prevent regen. That eliminates energy transfer, which is more efficient than regening the energy into the battery. You can do this a lot in city driving, such as coasting up to a red light that is 2 blocks away, if you are on a slight downhill which allows you to hold the speed of traffic in that 45mph or under speed. It's called pulse and glide. You use the engine power to get up to speed, then glide(coast). Driving with no foot on the accelerator will cause a small regen load (like engine braking in a normal car). This is fine if you need to get your battery charge back up. Many people think that driving in electric mode if best. But that is only true when the load is very low - such as in parking lots and steady speeds under 20mph typically. You only have a very small range in electric mode. The car is not designed for that. The ICE is most efficient under heavier load and at higher speed. The car's computers do most of this for the average driver, switching between modes without you thinking about it. But you can improve efficiency by minimizing time that either the ICE or electric motors are doing anything. Avoid drawing prolonged full EV power when above 15mph. It's really all about anticipating the next 5-20 seconds of driving up the road. No reason to go full speed up to a red light when you have to stop anyway. Often times you can time a light to the point where you can avoid stopping altogether. Truckers do this, because it reduces wear, less shifting and saves fuel. There is of course limits to this, you don't want to crawl at low speed with traffic behind you.
You put it together and explained so nicely, I could never do explain it better even though I am a Prius owner and a former mechanic 🙂👍
That's right and way back, I heard that Audi was trying a system where the car would know what the traffic lights are going to do and would time itself to sail through them.
@@b43xoitas if there Is any rhyme or reason to when the lights change 😭. Lol the city where I live the lights are timed so horribly. They need ai to control them its so bad.
Traffic lights owned by the oil companies 😅
I find it amusing that my fellow Prius drivers frequently preach about not going to a faster speed than needed and coasting all the time to improve efficiency- while all this is true, why I find it funny is that the entire point of owning a hybrid vehicle is to mitigate these inefficiencies. All the advice we apply to hybrid vehicles are actually much more true for conventional ICE vehicles- since there is no regenerative braking, you better not be punching it in between stoplights. In a hybrid, while yes it is more efficient to use less power, it actually makes far less of a difference. Unnecessary acceleration and stopping will take you from like 50 to 45 instead of 30 to 15. The main difference is you want to make sure you brake very early so it's low torque and you don't engage the hydraulic brakes. You didn't buy a hybrid vehicle to use friction to stop like a caveman.
Granted, the motors are more efficient at lower torques. But this mostly matters for braking, not so much accelerating, because when you accelerate it's primarily using the engine anyway, with the motors just helping out. You can see this if you install Dr. Prius and observe the battery charging/discharging current (directly proportional to power). Regen braking charges at up to 100 something amps (depending on battery health- mine's pretty old so it only gets up to about 80) before hydraulics kick in, stealth mode driving discharges up to a similar rate, but when you're accelerating with the engine it drops to more like 10A.
THANK YOU, I've been scouring the Internet trying to figure out what's actually going on under the hood of these things, and this is a great teaching tool!
Excellent video, Thank you. All my cars are conventional and as such I have not yet had to learn about hybrids, The day will come when I do have to own or work on one though and your video made the Prius at least, much easier to understand. I was trained in the early 90's and of course we didn't cover anything like this.
Hi, you're a genuine lecturer who're able to explain those very complex mechanical stuff in a very understandable laymen non-mechanic people like me...
Thank you very much Sir.
I have some questions base on your explanation;
1. The MG1 gets the power from 12v battery only. Not from HV battery. And MG1 would be the one which kick off the ICE using the 12v power. So in case the 12v battery is drained, we can do jump-start from another vehicle to kick off the ICE, right? Am I correct?
2. What if the HV battery is totally drained too, for eg. if we put the Gear at N for very long time and all the electricals are ON too, which end up both HV battery & 12v battery drain. If we just do jump start the 12v battery, will the ICE kick off back? (while the HV battery drains too...)
Thank you very much Sir.
The "Power split device" is actually a differential gear set.
The hydraulic CVTs that agricultural tractors have use the same layout ,except they use hydraulic pumps/motors instead of electric motors
It transmits rotations like a differential, but the power split device uses spur gears (cylindrical) and a differential uses conical gears, so that the input and outputs can be at 90 degrees.
A power split device could be made with a differential too, but those tiny internal gears would experience 1000x more rotations than they were ever intended for.
@@robertoguerra5375 It is a differential.
A differential is any gear set that gives two differential output speeds for one input speed depending on the loads on the output shaft.
That is why it is called a "differential" and not a pumpkin or a blowfish.The differential on my ride-on mower has no bevel gears it uses only an epicyclic gear set.
The nature of the gears used to achieve this or the angles of the input shaft or output shaft is entirely irrelevant.
The differential on my ride-on mower has no bevel gears it uses only an epicyclic gear set.
It is analogous to a differential amplifier in electronics
I like to call them planetary gear sets
I may have to watch this again incase I miss something. Trying to learn a little about my Prius. I’m old school and graduated from automotive school in 1981. Front wheel drive was barely out then! Lol
Yep, things have changed a bit! Thanks for watching Gary.
mindblowing engineering - efficient and reliable.
would have helped a lot if this simulator also showed the dashboard regen/power dial
love my 2015 prius......hybrid battery just replaced (under warranty) at 140k miles...ready for another 9 yrs.!!!
Nice! Thanks for watching.
Great demo - I think as much work has gone into this as designing it in the first place. Thank you !
Fantastic video! What a great simulator you've created. I have a Prius and now understand and really appreciate its internal workings and all it does to create great MPG in it.
I own a 2013 Prius and another Gen 3 CVT that I invested in with the goal to make a 3-phase generator (alternator technically first and foremost) using a Briggs & Stratton 18HP opposed twin somewhat sentimental since was there hybrid car engine and I want to limit what power I can output in the initial design. Your video showing the demonstrator is excellent as well as your detail regarding how the engine, MG1 and MG2 function.
I look forward to testing to see what the voltage and current profiles look like (Hz mainly) at the range of RPM's. Appears using the CVT without any custom fabricated MG casing (including with cooling unless I invest in another Prius-C CVT).
My brake pads in the front are at ~260K miles and the rear most likely would have made as far though the passenger side lower caliper pin siezed and cause the pad to wear uneven so I replaced the pads... with amazement how the runout and thickness of the rotors were at worse 1/2 worn and at best 1/10th worn. That was at I think ~190K miles.
I notice you say "stator" when I think as "rotor." Is that correct?
Finally, do you happen to know what the frequency of the MG1 and/or MG2 (either one) is output? I'm guessing seeing the RPM and being 3-phase I can determine once I find out the number of windings... though I still need to study more since is I think an asynchronous alternator design being brushless. So will have those funky output variables without a load/resistance.
I also want to make an AC/DC welder and seems a plasma cutter can be made from as well. These are the neatest to me and I am amazed the pricing since they last so long... that's nuts to me!
Anyways, those specs for the MG1 or MG2 would be awesome to know since I'm wondering what the utility of the outputs will be as-is and then what all else will need to be made or used from the inverter/converter (I also invested in 3 more of those to have the parts since pricing was crazy on the half off self serve salvage yard days) to be more practical 3-phase (or single) 220 or 120VAC or maybe even 480-600VAC. If you know or have any reference, please share! Thanks again and awesome man! Very inspirational to learn to work on and seems like a great career.
I know this was a year ago but have you looked into the openinverter project? I've seen some talk there about doing exactly what you want.
Yes, thanks for checking, I appreciate ya. I've posted on there under my FB James Analytic where seems I think I have a handle on the needs, though would be great to see others inspired to do the same or similar. I even did a little work editing the Wiki on the related to references I think this video as well if I recall correctly. Haven't been active working on since moved in to this last house, though I don't plan to drop the project either. Literally, was looking to pick parts again maybe. A challenge to see the parts go to the shredder or crusher when such high quality already made. @@906MediaProductions
Nice presentation. It’s plain to see why this powertrain is so reliable; no gearbox (just planetary gear set), no turbo and looks quite simple.
It’s rare for issues to happen with the transmission in these, which for a modern car, is pretty impressive.
Very informative. I was under the impression that there was still a mechanical connection between the engine and driveline, and that there also was a transmission. So to an extent MG1 acts somewhat as a torque converter/transmission (OD as you say) when under acceleration-something I never realized.
Yeah same here and that was surprising/deceptive at first because the engine is running of course while they zip up to speed... I too did not expect *all* the power to go thru wiring before hitting the wheels. I'm assuming this is the "synergy" part of it... complete management of the energy
Yup. Definitely have that feeling of wanting to stick my fingers in those amazing looking gears…
Thanks a lot for simplifying the mechanism of action. Thumbs up 👍👍👍 you are awesome 👌
ThankI am Prius owner and my DC to DC Inverter failed and Dealer replaced free because of my warranty. Nice to know how everything works. I get 50 MPG and can go over 600 miles between gas fills :)
That’s pretty good! I have a CT200h and can almost get 500, but I do a lot of highway miles unfortunately. Thanks for watching!
50 mpg/4.7 liters per 100 is awesome
Why does the cutaway show the ice on the left and on the diagram it's on the right, what sort of a trainer does that unless they want people confused.
This system has some great potential in the hands of a great engineer one can do more
Very good video, one of the only videos i've really found that can explain hybrid in detail without making my brain hurt lol. Just one question, I was a little lost when the control panel "opposite rotation" does that mean that MG1 and MG2 are turning in opposite directions?
Would love to hear a reply for this as well...
Yes, notice that whenever the vehicle is moving forward, MG2 is showing "opposite rotation." But at the end, in reverse, the light is out for MG2. MG2 is directly connected to the drive train and will rotation 'opposite rotation' when the car is moving forward and 'normal direction' when in reverse, always. However, since MG1 works in tandem at times with the ICE, it can run in both directions. If the ICE is off and the car is moving forward, it more or less freewheels and rotates in 'opposite direction' is tandem with MG2. All bets are off so to say once the ICE is started because now MG1 has to have a relative speed to the ICE to control the ICE's rpms as well as starting the ICE. Coming out of stealth mode we see MG1 has to rotate in the normal direction to start the ICE.
Hey Ken
Great video. Awesome cutaway. Go! Snap-on
Life long technician with Ryder first time owner of this power train. Just started researching and your video was the first one I clicked on. This is a great design.
I was gifted a 2011 with 165k and I love it so far.
Gen 3 is a good platform but it does have some things to look out for. Thanks for watching!
What do you need to watch out for?
Head gasket, brake actuator, water pump failure, EGR clogging, and HV battery failure.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB is there any information on the frequency of these issues?
@@guydamico85 I’ve seen all these issues at various miles, a few at the 80k range and I haven’t seen many make it to 200k miles without at least one happen.
Great video!! Well made and explain 😎
Great video! Explains a lot. I have a question for you. I have a 2005 prius hybrid that I had to replace the brake accumulator. We had to disconnect the inverter and move it to the side to get it out. The accumulator was bad but the inverter wasn't. After the job was done when you go to put the car in drive it bangs really bad for a second and then the triangle of death comes on.we are waiting for a scanner to bleed the brakes but we did bleed them manually and got a lot of air out. There is other lights on also. The cil,brake light, abs,and maintenance light,and the one with the explanation mark in it. It ran fine before the work was done? Are they on bc it needs to be bleed properly and could we have accidentally hooked up a wire wrong? Also the car doesn't want to go into gear.
This is awesome, thank you!
Love your name, thanks for watching!
What a detailed explanation! Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Excellent tutorial!
Thanks for watching!
I wish your video will go global bcox, it worth it's time spend
Thanks so much for watching!
Seeing how simple this design is, i don't see there is much that could get damaged, if something can get damaged at all, if someone does not change the transaxle fluid, and go as far as 200,000 miles [which as happened a lot]
Agreed, to a point. There isn't much to fail in a differential on a RWD car, which has a much more durable fluid. We change the fluid in those. I'm not really sure what the correct answer is. I will say I have not seen a transmission failure yet that isn't an electrical problem. Thanks for watching!
mine has 240k on the clock with only oil changes and still drives perfectly fine
Is that to mean the transmission fluid is still original? I'm curious because I just purchased a 2nd gen with124k, I'm a little nervous because the tranny fluid was apparently never changed.
@@matthewschrock8947 My 2012 Prius C has 138,000 miles and it still has the original transaxle fluid.
@@QuincyStick no transmission fluid changes??
I just bought two 08 second gens, one with 98k and one with 160k don't know if anyone's ever changed it or not but I suspect it will be one of the first projects.
Great job Toyota, thank you
I had a 2013 Prius and the first long trip I ever took with was through some rolling hills for a lot of miles. When I got to the 3-way stop in Coudersport I spent a long time at a stop sign and that car kept turning the gas engine and stopping. Did it like 7 times to discharge the traction battery to a safer level. I'd never experienced that before and was concerned... "Shit! I owe a lot of money on this car... is it broken?"
I drove another 60k trouble-free miles with it before a long legged woods rat leapt in front of me.
Side note: That car's traction control system was all-the-bad! The slightest bit of slip and snow made the whole car give up on life.
Agree with the stability control. I came from a Jetta GLI to my CT200h and the stability control and ABS is poop on these cars comparatively. Thanks for watching!
What is energy circulation all about? Why would you put that extra resistance on the shaft?
You said around 23:45 "MG2 is both generating power and giving power out". How is that possible and what does that mean? And how does that make it overdrive?
I think his explanation is confusing. And I think "energy recirculation" is a method to get the effect of a higher gear without changeable gears. In a conventional transmission, a high gear allows high wheel speed while maintaining low engine speed. To do that with the Prius drivetrain, the control system has to shift energy via the electrical pathways. MG2 is connected to the wheels through a fixed-ratio geartrain. MG1 is on a differential between the engine and the wheels. Assume the battery is neither taking nor giving energy. What has to happen with the two motors? Talk about speed first, and from that try to infer the directions of flow of energy. MG1 has to add speed. Therefore, it also has to add power on the mechanical side. Therefore, it has to take up power from the electrical side. If we are not drawing from the battery, this power has to come from MG2. Therefore MG2 has to take up mechanical energy. It takes it from the ring gears, which are driven by the engine and MG1.
Thorough! I hear caliper piston alignment on the brake pad is a concern when installing new brake pads to avoid uneven wear. How would you recommend that?
Great video! That's just a flywheel/damper between the ICE and MG1, right? (not an auto-clutch or anything)
Too bad the trainer doesn't split open MG1 and MG2 stators - could be useful to see what the MG rotors are doing in various modes!
Yes, it just softens the shock of the engine. It looks much like a clutch disc and pressure plate from a manual transmission.
I also grabbed a few other parts to have on those half off sale days; inverter pump and washer fluid pump as well as an AC compressor. Do you know what the electrical specs are for the AC compressor? 12VAC, 120VAC, etc.? Voltage, Current and Frequency would be awesome to know from the expert. Thanks again for sharing!
Gen 1 compressors are mechanical. Gen 2 are AC, Gen 3 and 4 are DC. The voltages come directly from the traction battery but vary by control module regulation compared to cooling need.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Interesting! Amazing the price of the Gen 2 parts that seem to never need to be replaced. I really want to invest in a 1.5L hybrid system and am debating making something like the demonstrator to study with. Seems like, other than the battery, the whole system can be had for ~$500-$1000 and maybe better if found on a half off sale. Amazing even the pricing most likely under $1000 if not a pick your parts find.
So, the Gen 3 can operate from 220VDC on down? Guessing some form of pulse modulation vs continuous DC? Seems I read 120V somewhere, though forget offhand. Will be interesting to be able to very carefully measure V as well as clamp on with a current clamp to see the waveforms on an oscilloscope. Just brought home two Tektronics portable carts since I'm still working on the cost effective acquisition and where needed restoration of the lab test equipment to measure everything safely.
@@jafinch78 tell me more about this half price deal you speak of 🤔
LKQ used to have 50% off or other % off sale days seems pre-COVID. After that two of my local yards stopped until recently. Basically, have to call around to your local yards and see if they're having 50% or other percent off sale days and when. My two you usually have to bring like $25 worth of the item they want to donate to a local charity for the discount to start. So, like spending more than $50 in the yard starts saving money. @@whatsit2ya247
@@AutoScholarwithMrBmy 2002 gen1 will shut its engine off when I stop at a traffic light, but the air conditioner keeps blowing ice-cold for a solid minute. The air then will progressively get warmer and once the engine restarts automatically (about 15-20 seconds later) it cools off again. I'm SURE this thing has some sort of thermal storage evaporator core, because I don't hear an electric compressor running.
Engineering marvel. Getting 60mpg with my 2021 Eco with a 1.5" suspension lift.
That is pretty strong
Just found. Your channel and going through some videos. Highly underrated channel and excellent presentation. Wish you did more Prius and Volvo stuff. My two cars. :)
I have a ton of Prius stuff and more coming, glad you are enjoying it!
Just wanted to thank you for this masterclass you have provided. It is clear that the whole package created by Toyota is a masterpiece of the automotive engineering and it is far away from rest of OEMs in terms of hybridation technology.
I am owner of a 2023 Corolla with 5th gen of hybrid system and sure the function is the same.
However I just wanted to ask you for a question. If driving with my car (with 140 HP) through a hill and the battery starts to drop down to that lower limit of 20% but I push the throttle as I need to overpass another car, is the system capable of providing the full power of the engine? Can the MG2 recharge the battery an provide power at the same time to make available those 140 HP or the power is lower?
Thanka you for the knowledgeable video
I have little doubt. What is the current generation by the MG1 motor and what is the current made by the MD2 while brakeing
Plz answer this question if anyone know about this
Thanks to 💯 time you making this unique video... thanks again
Thanks for watching!
VERY informative video!!! Helps with my driving technique's also! Thank u! 👍
No problem! Thanks for watching. I should have more content like this coming.
My 2015 has 218,000 still seeing 48-49 mpg with over 550 miles per fill up. Replaced the NiMH battery with the NexPower lithium system.
That’s pretty strong! My CT is getting around 45 with 130k on it on the original battery.
Hybrid sync drive blows my mind. How is this not more reliable by margins than a traditional transmission with a torque converter ? HSD seems superior
It is more reliable honestly. I've never heard of one with a bad transmission (and I peruse prius chat forums quite a lot), and mine has 240k on the clock without ever having a transmission/diff fluid change and still drives like a dream.
@@QuincyStickI have the same case but mine is over 300k miles. Only issue I'm having with it right now is electrical lol
@@shkkrimp7344 general electrical, or hybrid battery problems?
Very nice. I still have one question, how Prius engine and transaxle work in “N” position?
Thank you very much
So with the “n” position, MG1 is deactivated and is not generating electricity.
Excellent video, thanks!
Great Video!
@@layton3503 thanks for watching!
Thank you Mr. B
Thanks for the explanation of the drivetrain Mr. Bean
I need your advice, thank you very much for what you are doing
Very helpful, even for someone very experienced with ICE vehicles
Thanks a lot!
Hello . In hybrid vehicles, will using the battery at less than 20 percent damage the battery?
Nope. The car manages the battery through software. If it needs charging, the engine runs to do so. As long as the car hasn't sat undriven for weeks, the battery shouldn't be critically low.
Only 20k subscribers? that's crazy!
I’m trying my best!
So instead of being the main propellant,the engine here in this system only assists the motors, at 100mph it only revs as high as 3k rpm with the help of MG1 as an overdrive.that’s why the Prius is slow as a snail
Amazing video ☝😎☝😎
Thanks for watching!
You won't believe how many hybrids there are on the road, Start counting you will be amazed
Great job teacher thanks
I’m glad to find you all
because there’s no…”manual “
for a Toyota Prius
Very educational ty!
Thanks for watching Samuel!
Hello there!
Thank you very much for the useful video! I'm not very familiar with the hybrid cars and honestly wasn't really interested in them until recently. I have fully committed myself to EVs, and began to think about converting retro (and not so old) ICE cars.
However after watching your video and a few others I began to think whether it makes sense to include in this group for conversion hybrid and plug in hybrid cars too!? They are after all half electric to put it this way. For example Toyota/Lexus have some models which have powerful enough electric motors to move the car on electricity only, in this case is it possible to remove the ICE from the car and use it as electric only? Of Course battery capacity has to be increased and few other changes to be made.
My question is if this conversion makes sense, could you please point which models are the best candidates?
Regards,
Thanks!
Unfortunately I don’t think removing the engine would make a road worthy car. This drivetrain needs the ICE to manipulate the power split device to exceed 45 miles per hour. Thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thank you very much for the answer! Will adding an extra electric motor instead of ICE solve the problem?
Huh. I have a 2nd gen Prius and I thought that when you let go of the gas, coast and not touch the brake that MG1 and the engine were applying that slight braking force, and MG2 only started regenerative braking when the brake was applied.
I assumed this because when I had my catalytic converter stolen, I could hear the engine being spun by the engine any time I let go of the throttle. Basically a lighter version of B mode at higher speeds. And it would change again when touched the brake (though I’m 100% sure on that last one)
Thanks Great Video
Hi, this is an old post but perhaps I can get some technical questions answered. I swapped engines and transmissions as well as the inverter on top of the engine. I’m getting a red triangle as well as the lights as if I was out of fuel. My gas gauge works intermittently.
My questions are this: is it possible that there is a ROM pack in the transmission or inverter that prevents vehicle from starting or is it due to the hybrid battery getting so low as to not go into “Ready” mode and start the gas engine?! My educated belief is that the Hybrid battery is too low since it sat for two months all winter in Canada. Other question is, if this is the case what is the easiest way to charge the Hybrid battery? Do I take it apart and charge individual cell packs with NiMh charger? Is there an easier way to bypass it and charge with something else? I have the old transmission and could build a until to spin the transmission and thus create a charger unit.
If it has been sitting for a long time, you may have to pull the battery and rebalance every cell. There are videos on TH-cam of people do this with hobby chargers, but I don’t have one unfortunately.
How does the gasoline engine deliver power directly to the wheels when we need high speeds? Through MG1 or MG2? Hondas have a separate clutch gear for high speeds and the engine is directly connected to it. But I could not understand this situation in Toyotas..
Could you please explain how you made this setup ?
This is a trainer built by Consulab
I have a 2018 plug in ,im wanting to put rear brakes on other then the 12volt battery is there anything else I should unhook
What happens if you put it in drive, full throttle, and then put it in reverse still full throttle. What will it burn out?
Can’t say I’ve ever tried it, and I doubt the car would let you do that.
Pretty much everything about it is drive by wire or computer controlled.
Even the stick returns to center when you put it in D. A thing that was missed in Gran Turismo.
If you do that while driving, it does not do anything. Simple as that. Foolproof, in any way.
Amazing, pls always use a mic 🙏
Where did you get the money to make the trainer? Very informative. I have have a higher mileage GS 450h I'm trying to get the most life out of
So if the air conditioning compressor is not running off of the engine, does this mean that it will consume the battery like an electric car? Is it more efficient than a traditional car?
@@shiriajin yes, the ac depletes the battery. They are much more efficient because they can turn at the needed speed, not whatever rpm the engine is at.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I used to have a town car, every time I turned on the air con while I’m driving, it broke the compressor. Now I have developed the habit of turning the AC on or off when I’m stationary. I don’t have to do this with this kind of car right? I’m trying to get as much information as possible about these engines because I’m thinking about buying a hybrid corolla.
@@shiriajin no you can run it however you like, thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thanks for the information.
I hope the content is translated, thank you very much
Thank you❤
What do you mean by 80%. How does it figure out battery capacity,based on voltage?
Yes, and this is controlled by the battery control module.
Thank you
You're fucking awesome mate. Thanks for sharing ur knowledge and expertise.u have my subscription. Keep up the good work. No waffling n all that bollocks.just straight concise delivery of information. Thank you very much
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it!
What I want to know is the starting process. How does it turn the engine? I am working on a BMW X6 hybrid and I hear activity like turning as I press start button and transmission seem to be spinning but engjne is not being turned. It stay stationary, thus the car engine won’t start and car throws hybrid power train code
The engine is directly connected to the planetary carrier. To put any torque on the engine, it's necessary to hold the ring gear still and torque the sun gear. And what's the sun gear connected to? MG1, right? But that's the Prius. The BMV could be a wholly different story.
What’s the motor operating voltage?
Motor input voltage?
Where do you teach your students at?
Hey Mr B, i do have a question for you. I have a 2010 Highlander hybrid v6 Limited 162000 miles. The motor and transmission mounts are all recently replaced with factory parts. When the gas motor takes over for the electric motor, it's not always smooth. Sometimes i dont notice. other times it's rather jarring. feels like a dull thud or shake. It could happen at idle or under acceleration from a stop. Any ideas where this could be coming from? this is my first hybrid and i bought it used so not sure if this is normal behavior. Thanks!
actually, i think its the flywheel damper. right where the ICE mates with the electric motor. that would probably be hard to replace. lol
Toyota japan 😮
4:54 disconnect both batteries to do an oil change ?
If I wanted to connect a solar panel to battery while it's running how many volts I have to apply to prevent overcharging? Since it's 7.2 v per unit so 28 of them will be 201.6 v. So if I apply 201.6 volts from solar panel will the battery be safe?
I am unsure of how to properly do this. I would check fórums like Prius Chat to see if anyone has done this before.
I have a yaris hybrid 2013. Sometimes the car does not turn on the engine even when The RPM is above the point where Ev should break and engine should turn on, it accelerates silently and display shows power going from battery to the engine. 2) sometimes when battery is on 2 cells, when Ev breaks, car jerks out of it. The transition is not smooth. Feels like car laggs first, then turns on engine. Other than that it works fine. What could be the problem?
Came to this video to see if I can discover wether or not the 10,000 miles worth of oil life is actually more than that based on the % of mileage that was allegedly electric, but based on the trainer is seemed that the engine still is running most of the times above 30mph because it doesn’t know when it will be needed 🤔
If anyone smarter than me knows the actual answer that would be cool.
In trying to learn if the recommended 10,000 miles for oil and filter change is actually overly conservative due to the hybrid nature of these cars.
I run a Prius prime that claims ~75% of my drive was electric usage, so theoretically it would mean my engine is only getting “2,500 miles” of use if I understood correctly, but I’m way too sheepish to actually attempt to milk the full theoretical ~40,000 miles before an engine oil change would theoretically need to be done (assuming 75% electric usages and miles being done before time degrades oil integrity)
Thoughts? Can a Rideshare driver get away with milking 20,000 miles before doing the oil and filter changes due to electric use and the engine being used less than what the odometer reads, or is the engine in fact being used for the full 10,000 miles as per the odometer and thus the oil change is in fact perfectly timed?
I change the oil in mine every 5,000 but that’s probably overkill. If you really want to get to the bottom of it, you could send your used oil off to get it analyzed. I’m thinking about doing this to compare oil quality.
How applicable is this to the 2nd gen Prius?
This trainer is the Gen 3 but shares the same technology. MG 1 and 2 will work the same.
I want to convert my car
To a plug in without adding battery’s any advice ?
My 2013 Prius with 200 k miles have a hard time to accelerate it’s slow hybrid battery charging fine shows normal , no warning lights ANY idea please advise
Brilhante!
My original hybrid battery indicate some issues on dashboard from time to time by one strange cycle when it is charged up to 100 instead of 80% like used to be. What should I do before I get code?
Is the battery balanced? I would check voltage with each battery block and make sure they are close to each other in voltage. Do this while the battery is under load, like when the car is under heavy acceleration. This can be done with most scan tools. If a cell is weak you have a few options, depending on your skill set and time/money you want to invest. “Refurbished” batteries are popular, with many people selecting companies like Green Bean to come and replace your battery and offer a warranty. You can also remove the battery, replace the cells with new ones, and reinstall. I hope this helps, and good luck with your car!
I cleaned copper bus bars by sea salt and vinegar which helped eliminate the problem
Thanks for the F shack - Dirty Mike n the boys.
hello, do the MG1 and MG2 engines work in oil?
They are both submerged in transmission fluid for lubrication and cooling.
THANKS MY PEOPLE
Thank you for watching!
I got a 2016 toyota prius... what happened to my car is... wont star and no light on a dush....... need help thanks
Have you checked the 12 volt battery?
I had a Toyota Aqua rental car that did this after leaving the lights on, Just charge the 12v battery or jump start it. In some models the 12v battery is under the rear seat.
I assume that MG-1 spins at 46,800, since it says: "X10"?
No way! Maybe 4,680rpm, 46,800rpm is getting into jet engine speeds, way too fast for anything mechanical
Oh wow. Didn’t recognize the engine without the blown head gasket
Gen 4 when you slowing down shuts engine off in any speed, unless battery overcharged. Even on flat road I can go in EV at high speed for a little. At least this how work with lithium battery, not sure if it’s same with old style battery. Gen 3 will drive in EV only under 45 mph, even if you go downhill, engine never shuts off, very little power. But I found if battery depleted, to recharge it, your average mpg will go down. Look like it better to keep battery not less then 70% charged. Needs to much energy to recharge. Gen 4 actually benefits if I using as much as possible battery power, much less energy to recharge it.
Why do I get a clunk when accelerating from a stop and when the engine starts ?
@@streamtards966 check your engine mounts, they are a failure point.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thanks !
What is that chain drives.
The chains are part of the trainer and are not found on the drivetrain. Thanks for watching!
Hi Sir . please can you tell me again how can i find pin 1 and pin 3 on INVERTER HYBRID TOYOTA GEN4 P610 ON Inverter its 2 connecters one (24pin ) another connector (13 pin )
pleas if you tel me hwo can I connect power 12 volt to run InverterI will be very grateful to you
Sir
I have problem with my prius 2011.
When air conditioner is on and driving on 20 30 mph local street.
I got battery problem sign.
When I drive 50 60 mph then air condition doing fine and battery doing fine.
Can you suggest me what's wrong with it
Could be a battery cell weak
@@AutoScholarwithMrB but did not get battery cell weak code yet.
I want to change battery,
But totoya dealership said they checked battery ,
Battery is fine.
It might be some thing wrong with inverter converter.
AC attached with inverter converter
Great video, but if you turn the car off, it’s not just gonna start up at anytime. You have to have it on, and that requires the key inserted, (or near car if smart key) and foot on brake while pressing the start button. They don’t just start Willy nilly.
I agree, I am not sure I see the need to disconnect the 12v Aux battery, unless you are disconnecting wires / risking a short circuit. There is still a lot of short-circuit current available from even a small AGM battery!