Good info and its good to see a mechanic actually do diagnosis. It is crazy how much money is wasted by consumers who have repair shops just guess. If you are a consumer and read this...BE CAREFUL. I think consumers need to have the shop sign a contract that says this is to repair problem X. If X is not repaired no money is owed. And I doubt they even replaced or rebuilt the transmission. As they knew it was good. They changed the fluid and filter in case she took to another shop the fluid would be fresh. On this code you want to look at the Short and long term fuel trims first and write them down. Look at them at idle and hold RMP at 2000. I am dealing with this on a 2011 Sonata, 2.4 no turbo, good maintenance history with records, 170,000 miles. I just bought the car a few months ago. I am inclined to agree with you that it is a problem with air, not the fuel injectors. For me the ST LT fuel trims are at + or - 5 at 2000 RPM. I have power at speed, and no hesitation or misfires. Replaced - Air filter, was dirty; replaced both O2 sensors with Walker from rockauto - current ones were over 70k miles on them, vehicle ran way better. Replaced MAP sensor - again was old and is a wear item. PCV value - probably didn't need replacing, but did not cost much and easy to replace. So LT fuel trim better, but still around -15 to -25, way out of spec. Gas cap does not click, so might look into that. Will clean throttle body, should have done that first. Will remove vacuum hose from purge valve and cap it. If purge valve is leaking and gas cap is leaking that would add un-metered air into system. So if LT trim is normal with capped purge valve then will replace purge valve. Also going to carefully inspect all vacuum hoses and air intake hose. Maybe a bit picky, but I would not put a screwdriver in to clean the throttle body. The risk is a scratch on the TB so the plate does not seal. If used lightly probably not an issue, but a copper brush or piece of plastic is less risky. Ok thanks, I will provide and update.
GOOD DIAG,,, ONE THING, WHEN I GET FUEL CODES I ALWAYS REST THE FUEL TRIMS AFTER THE REPAIRS IT HELPS THE PCM RE-GEN CONTROL OF FUEL TRIM CONTROL QUICKER . I REALLY LIKE YOUR CASE STUDIES , PLEASE KEEP THE GREAT VIDEOS COMING THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR TIME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 👍👍👍
Good info and its good to see a mechanic actually do diagnosis. It is crazy how much money is wasted by consumers who have repair shops just guess. If you are a consumer and read this...BE CAREFUL. I think consumers need to have the shop sign a contract that says this is to repair problem X. If X is not repaired no money is owed. And I doubt they even replaced or rebuilt the transmission. As they knew it was good. They changed the fluid and filter in case she took to another shop the fluid would be fresh.
On this code you want to look at the Short and long term fuel trims first and write them down. Look at them at idle and hold RMP at 2000. I am dealing with this on a 2011 Sonata, 2.4 no turbo, good maintenance history with records, 170,000 miles.
I just bought the car a few months ago. I am inclined to agree with you that it is a problem with air, not the fuel injectors.
For me the ST LT fuel trims are at + or - 5 at 2000 RPM. I have power at speed, and no hesitation or misfires.
Replaced - Air filter, was dirty; replaced both O2 sensors with Walker from rockauto - current ones were over 70k miles on them, vehicle ran way better. Replaced MAP sensor - again was old and is a wear item. PCV value - probably didn't need replacing, but did not cost much and easy to replace. So LT fuel trim better, but still around -15 to -25, way out of spec.
Gas cap does not click, so might look into that. Will clean throttle body, should have done that first.
Will remove vacuum hose from purge valve and cap it. If purge valve is leaking and gas cap is leaking that would add un-metered air into system. So if LT trim is normal with capped purge valve then will replace purge valve. Also going to carefully inspect all vacuum hoses and air intake hose.
Maybe a bit picky, but I would not put a screwdriver in to clean the throttle body. The risk is a scratch on the TB so the plate does not seal. If used lightly probably not an issue, but a copper brush or piece of plastic is less risky.
Ok thanks, I will provide and update.
Appreciate it. Let me know if you and when you get through
GOOD DIAG,,, ONE THING, WHEN I GET FUEL CODES I ALWAYS REST THE FUEL TRIMS AFTER THE REPAIRS IT HELPS THE PCM RE-GEN CONTROL OF FUEL TRIM CONTROL QUICKER . I REALLY LIKE YOUR CASE STUDIES , PLEASE KEEP THE GREAT VIDEOS COMING THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR TIME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 👍👍👍
Good tip! I do retest my FT but was in a rush to get the car back to the customer. Thanks for the support