OK so I have an update on this situation. I battled with this problem with this car for a couple of months before I made this video. Since then this problem has slowly started to return and has gotten quite a bit worse over the last couple of days. Previously I probably had at least a half a dozen different coils, three different sets of spark plug wires and two different sets of spark plugs installed in this car and the symptom would not go away. I also changed the crankshaft position sensor. I do not have an explanation for why the problem seemed to subside after I insulated the high voltage terminal on the coil. So fast forward to today where I installed a brand new NGK coil in the distributor. When I opened it up there was no evidence of any spark tracking whatsoever inside the distributor cap yet the car was misfiring badly. Just a few weeks ago I Purchased a 1997 Corolla CE with the 1.6 and an automatic in it. This car was a one owner and only had 118,000 miles on it. The engine is knocking. This afternoon I decided to rob the entire distributor along with the original spark plug wires that were still on the car and install them on my car. This solved the problem completely. 🤔 The only component of the other distributor and ignition system that I never replaced was the hall effect pick up inside the distributor. Either that pick up is bad or the wires coming from it are broken inside the insulation. I plan to do some more investigating on that later when I get ready to fix the other car.
In my 1987 Toyota Corolla I have just fitted the third 3rd coil at 85 000 miles, this again fixed a dead engine. I see thgat on later cars the coil has been moved out of the distributer ???
So did you ever determine if the new NGK coil was faulty? I just ordered that same part for my 91 camry but have not installed yet. I’m having engine vibrations and rough idle.
Dude! Literally just started having these problems and did all the same work, with the exception of the insulator; you may have just saved my butt! I'm gonna take a look at my distributor and cap to see if there's a similarity here; thanks a bunch! 😎
Great video and great explanation! Had the same problem ain’t went with your idea and bought an exact oem coil and everything runs perfect now. Thanks!
I will have to tell you I did the same thing you did diagnose the car couldn't figure out why I was getting this real bad mess couldn't find anything so at that point TH-cam is all I had the very first video I saw was yours I did exactly what you told me to do and the car runs fine now I really appreciate your video I really did not know where to go but your video fix my car thank you again I couldn't even drive the car it was running so bad thank you
This is super amazing and thorough. I just purchased a new distributor becouse of Same issue. (1996 geo prizm 1.8 5spd) already did fuel pump , spark plugs, cap, rotor. And still no fix.
HOLY CRAP IT WORKS!!! 1997 Geo prizm 171k miles same problem, I replaced all the tuneup parts, fuel system, ignition system, and still no fix. driving me nuts. I made an insulater out of some dense black foam as per your video and smushed it in there. test drove. Can't get it to misfire - I have some very steep hills where I live, pressed down the gas pedal as hard this little motor can go. didnt miss a beat . nonetheless its a temporary fix, as per your comments. new (aftermarket cheapo) distributor on order. THANK YOU! update: 2nd drive, I REALLY PUSHED IT HARD and got it to misfire. but i think I can daily drive with it until i get my replacement distributor
@@VitalityMassage my problem ended up being the new ignition coil in the distributor went and picked up a junkyard one and it runs great again, the new coil was to strong as it was hoping the gap and causing misfires
Looking at all the other videos on "coil problems " one showed a simillar distributer cap BUT which had a sunken spring loaded pick up in the cap together with a ridge running between the the two plug wire connections which you mentioned , I E you have identified the problem ! I;m sory but I can not again find this video, I do note that it was by a lady who had bought the car from her mother,
I did a little math so that I could expand on my theory about why the spark is tracking to the #4 terminal with the coil terminal un-insulated instead of firing the #3 when the rotor button is pointed at it. The distance between the high voltage terminal on the coil and either the #3 or the #4 plug wire terminal is approximately 1.25". That is a little more than 31 times the plug gap (.040"). At light loads the cylinder pressure in a running, typical non-boosted gasoline engine runs around 300 psi at the moment just before ignition occurs. That's about 20 atmospheres. That's "11 times" less resistance than the 1.25" gap between the coil terminal and the plug wire terminals at 1 atmosphere. However, under peak load the cylinder pressure will be upwards of 1,000 psi or 68+ atmospheres. At this point the resistance offered by the .040" plug gap becomes greater (more than twice, actually) than that offered by the 1.25" gap at 1 atmosphere.
@@TheShamwari you are correct. The coil remained in the distributor through the 1997 model year. Starting in 1998 I believe they went to a coil on plug arrangement and eliminated the distributor all together.
Ok sou Fernando/Inocoop/Guarulhos SP/Brasil to com esse problema meu amigo achou e o. Rotor essa peça vermelha ela quebrou e esta oca dentro ja o de vcs tem então vou comprar e depois te falo. Mas amei a sua explicação parabéns. O meu é o Toyota Corolla Brasil 1.6 DX 1995 MECÂNICO. I LOVE MY CAR❤❤❤
so yeah I did all that and it fixed the problem ......for just one short ride. then I got a distributor complete assembly. though aha! its fixed! nope! got 15 minutes down the road and its still doing it. starts right up when cold, runs great for about 10 min, then under load it starts to sputter, and it gets worse, then it stalled out on me. its worse going up hills and i have a lot of hills. so now its broken down about 2 miles from my home. so it mimicks all the problems in your video, but when i replaced the distributor it made zero change. so now I am thinking the ICM? I already have one, a cheapo generic, already tried it and the car would not even start. this was on the old distributor. so now what?
My toyota corolla 1998 4afe engine is weak and sounds sufecating like spark plugs are bad which are new so its not the case.... Can it be main harness damage???
I can't see anywhere in your video(s) where you've put the insulation into the coil, or demonstrate the misfire. I think you're ideas are good tho, I'm going to try insulate my 4afe coil today as per your recommendation but I'd like to see more content on the topic. Eg do you need to do this on replacement coil
I have a Corolla with the same motor and it just will not start...sitting 3 years now😑 Getting engine fault code 12 - RPM sensor any idea what I could do? Btw my engine doesn't have a crank sensor so it uses the pickup coil signals inside the distributor.
More than likely it is a problem with one of the two sensors inside the distributor. I am not sure if those can be purchased separately or not but you can buy a complete distributor on eBay for relatively cheap.
I used this stuff initially as a test, it did not prove to be 100% effective. Ultimately I ended up using orange high temp RTV, you can get it at any auto parts store. Just put a bead of it around the high voltage terminal on the coil and then put the dist cap back on.
@@76629online man thanks gonna try it tomorrow morning car starts okay mostly acts like it hit on two cylinders with no power , got a used coil identical to original 94 Corolla 1.8 DX just like yours , I think this is the problem for sure , tested alternator and coil okay , 👍✌️💪🙏🤔
@@76629onlinecan you make another video showing us exactly what you did to fix it i have a celica with 1.8l and I have also experienced misfires plus I always buy aftermarket coils i should get oem
I had same issue with original coil and it spider tracked distributor and coil replaced , ran okay for a while , heat in the desert brings the issues of this occurrence... Fixing the girl tomorrow , thanks to the man , I was getting ready to dump her...✌️👍💪🙏🤔☯️🎯
OK so I have an update on this situation. I battled with this problem with this car for a couple of months before I made this video. Since then this problem has slowly started to return and has gotten quite a bit worse over the last couple of days. Previously I probably had at least a half a dozen different coils, three different sets of spark plug wires and two different sets of spark plugs installed in this car and the symptom would not go away. I also changed the crankshaft position sensor. I do not have an explanation for why the problem seemed to subside after I insulated the high voltage terminal on the coil.
So fast forward to today where I installed a brand new NGK coil in the distributor. When I opened it up there was no evidence of any spark tracking whatsoever inside the distributor cap yet the car was misfiring badly. Just a few weeks ago I Purchased a 1997 Corolla CE with the 1.6 and an automatic in it. This car was a one owner and only had 118,000 miles on it. The engine is knocking. This afternoon I decided to rob the entire distributor along with the original spark plug wires that were still on the car and install them on my car. This solved the problem completely. 🤔
The only component of the other distributor and ignition system that I never replaced was the hall effect pick up inside the distributor. Either that pick up is bad or the wires coming from it are broken inside the insulation. I plan to do some more investigating on that later when I get ready to fix the other car.
Keep us updated! i just ordered a new cap and distributor pick up thing that youre talking about
In my 1987 Toyota Corolla I have just fitted the third 3rd coil at 85 000 miles, this again fixed a dead engine. I see thgat on later cars the coil has been moved out of the distributer ???
Hellllooooo
So did you ever determine if the new NGK coil was faulty? I just ordered that same part for my 91 camry but have not installed yet. I’m having engine vibrations and rough idle.
This guy's a gentleman genius 🎉😢
Dude! Literally just started having these problems and did all the same work, with the exception of the insulator; you may have just saved my butt! I'm gonna take a look at my distributor and cap to see if there's a similarity here; thanks a bunch! 😎
Great video and great explanation! Had the same problem ain’t went with your idea and bought an exact oem coil and everything runs perfect now. Thanks!
I will have to tell you I did the same thing you did diagnose the car couldn't figure out why I was getting this real bad mess couldn't find anything so at that point TH-cam is all I had the very first video I saw was yours I did exactly what you told me to do and the car runs fine now I really appreciate your video I really did not know where to go but your video fix my car thank you again I couldn't even drive the car it was running so bad thank you
I am facing same issue with my corolla. Definatly will try this solution.
This is super amazing and thorough. I just purchased a new distributor becouse of Same issue. (1996 geo prizm 1.8 5spd) already did fuel pump , spark plugs, cap, rotor. And still no fix.
Have you found a fix?
Did the new distributor fix your issue?
HOLY CRAP IT WORKS!!!
1997 Geo prizm 171k miles
same problem, I replaced all the tuneup parts, fuel system, ignition system, and still no fix. driving me nuts.
I made an insulater out of some dense black foam as per your video and smushed it in there. test drove. Can't get it to misfire - I have some very steep hills where I live, pressed down the gas pedal as hard this little motor can go. didnt miss a beat . nonetheless its a temporary fix, as per your comments. new (aftermarket cheapo) distributor on order.
THANK YOU!
update: 2nd drive, I REALLY PUSHED IT HARD and got it to misfire. but i think I can daily drive with it until i get my replacement distributor
Did the distributor fix your problem?
Do NOT buy the cheapo $100 distributors! They're horrible!
@@VitalityMassage my problem ended up being the new ignition coil in the distributor went and picked up a junkyard one and it runs great again, the new coil was to strong as it was hoping the gap and causing misfires
@@VitalityMassage so what do we buy link please oem is freaking expensive toyota still trying to make $ of old cars😅
Wow this was extremely helpful it's giving something to start with before I start buying any electronic parts. Coils an stuff 💯👌👍
Will most definitely try out this solution first thing in da morning thank you so much 👍👌
My man! I guess you solved my problem too. Thanks a lot. Just watched your video from far far far land called Bangladesh. Thanks again. ❤
Great video, just wish you showed where you put your rubber insulators at
Did you watch the entire video? Go back and start paying attention @5:20
Thanks I am going to try this to fix my similar problem. I thought I had a loose spark plug wire connection but I still have a miss fire.
Looking at all the other videos on "coil problems " one showed a simillar distributer cap BUT which had a sunken spring loaded pick up in the cap together with a ridge running between the the two plug wire connections which you mentioned , I E you have identified the problem ! I;m sory but I can not again find this video, I do note that it was by a lady who had bought the car from her mother,
One check I like is open the hood when it's dark. Even better if it's rainy and damp. You should see no sparks or arcing under the hood at night.
You might have just solved my problem
I did a little math so that I could expand on my theory about why the spark is tracking to the #4 terminal with the coil terminal un-insulated instead of firing the #3 when the rotor button is pointed at it. The distance between the high voltage terminal on the coil and either the #3 or the #4 plug wire terminal is approximately 1.25". That is a little more than 31 times the plug gap (.040"). At light loads the cylinder pressure in a running, typical non-boosted gasoline engine runs around 300 psi at the moment just before ignition occurs. That's about 20 atmospheres. That's "11 times" less resistance than the 1.25" gap between the coil terminal and the plug wire terminals at 1 atmosphere. However, under peak load the cylinder pressure will be upwards of 1,000 psi or 68+ atmospheres. At this point the resistance offered by the .040" plug gap becomes greater (more than twice, actually) than that offered by the 1.25" gap at 1 atmosphere.
So what is the answer ?
@@TheShamwari you are correct. The coil remained in the distributor through the 1997 model year. Starting in 1998 I believe they went to a coil on plug arrangement and eliminated the distributor all together.
Same problem... thanks you so much ❤❤❤
thanks for
the idea , i have the same problem, also my distributor cap is corroded
Voy a intentar esto hoy, gracias por el video
Ok sou Fernando/Inocoop/Guarulhos SP/Brasil to com esse problema meu amigo achou e o. Rotor essa peça vermelha ela quebrou e esta oca dentro ja o de vcs tem então vou comprar e depois te falo.
Mas amei a sua explicação parabéns.
O meu é o Toyota Corolla Brasil 1.6 DX 1995 MECÂNICO.
I LOVE MY CAR❤❤❤
No comprende
@@76629online
Google tradutor
What's the resistance between the two carbon pins? Have they any continuity? Thank you for sharing your discovery and knowledge!
It has been too long since I worked on it now, I don’t remember but there was continuity.
شكرا ❤
Sir please reveal All Sensor And His Location 🙏
so yeah I did all that and it fixed the problem ......for just one short ride. then I got a distributor complete assembly. though aha! its fixed! nope! got 15 minutes down the road and its still doing it. starts right up when cold, runs great for about 10 min, then under load it starts to sputter, and it gets worse, then it stalled out on me. its worse going up hills and i have a lot of hills. so now its broken down about 2 miles from my home. so it mimicks all the problems in your video, but when i replaced the distributor it made zero change. so now I am thinking the ICM? I already have one, a cheapo generic, already tried it and the car would not even start. this was on the old distributor. so now what?
Did you ever get it figured out. My corolla is doing the same
Can u send me a piece of this rubber. Or where I can get it?? I'm going thru same shit brother
@@adventureteam67 any piece of heavy rubber or silicone will work
@76629online thanks 😊
My toyota corolla 1998 4afe engine is weak and sounds sufecating like spark plugs are bad which are new so its not the case.... Can it be main harness damage???
Sounds to me like its just wore tf out.
@@76629online engine had an overhaul before 170k kilometers
Seem like it need a new main harness assembly
Explanation of the evaporator in the engine Corolla 94
I can't see anywhere in your video(s) where you've put the insulation into the coil, or demonstrate the misfire.
I think you're ideas are good tho, I'm going to try insulate my 4afe coil today as per your recommendation but I'd like to see more content on the topic. Eg do you need to do this on replacement coil
I no longer have any of these cars, so there likely won’t be anymore content on this subject. Good luck with yours.
@@76629online ok so you basically put in a new coil in the end and that fixed it?
How effective was putting that wee rubber piece in ?
@@76629online hi sir! Where do I put this rubber insulator? On the coil terminal or on the cap?
Can u send me a piece of this insulation for my corolla
@@adventureteam67 sorry, don't have anymore handy. I also no longer have this car.
Needs distributor 7afe oem 93-95
Thank you for this!
Let me know if you have some success with this. I ended up just using orange high temperature silicone to isolate the coil post. Works great.
I have a Corolla with the same motor and it just will not start...sitting 3 years now😑
Getting engine fault code 12 - RPM sensor any idea what I could do? Btw my engine doesn't have a crank sensor so it uses the pickup coil signals inside the distributor.
More than likely it is a problem with one of the two sensors inside the distributor. I am not sure if those can be purchased separately or not but you can buy a complete distributor on eBay for relatively cheap.
Can anyone help me what to do if my car doesn't have a spark wen I test it what mast I do
Hi everyone one here my corrola silinder 2n3 not working but the cable hade spark n plugs they are working fine help
@@Dummisanemossan-zp8ow you have a bad fuel injector, possibly or a mechanical problem with that cylinder. Do a compression test.
Thank you.
Where would you find or buy some of this stuff
I used this stuff initially as a test, it did not prove to be 100% effective. Ultimately I ended up using orange high temp RTV, you can get it at any auto parts store. Just put a bead of it around the high voltage terminal on the coil and then put the dist cap back on.
@@76629online man thanks gonna try it tomorrow morning car starts okay mostly acts like it hit on two cylinders with no power , got a used coil identical to original 94 Corolla 1.8 DX just like yours , I think this is the problem for sure , tested alternator and coil okay , 👍✌️💪🙏🤔
@@76629onlinecan you make another video showing us exactly what you did to fix it i have a celica with 1.8l and I have also experienced misfires plus I always buy aftermarket coils i should get oem
what's the name of that insulator??
kindly say about the name
was it put on the cap or the ignition coil?
I put it on the top of the coil around the terminal, then put the cap on.
@@76629online thank you.
I had same issue with original coil and it spider tracked distributor and coil replaced , ran okay for a while , heat in the desert brings the issues of this occurrence... Fixing the girl tomorrow , thanks to the man , I was getting ready to dump her...✌️👍💪🙏🤔☯️🎯
My engine is 16valve toyota corolla
Muito bom 👍👏👏👏👏👏
No way
Way. 👍
Didn’t help 😢
Hmmm
check your pcv valve ended up being my problem
magkanu