Watched practically every video you have on BP. I did this too, as you recommended, after I bought my 1851 Navy in 36 cal. After months of going to your Black Powder College Classes, I think I am ready to try out BP for the first time this week. Olympic National Forest.
I purchased a Makarov (full of grease). I used dawn dish washer liquid. It cleaned up the oil (but left it dry). I then used a lubircant to clean the gun. Dawn works very well to cut grease.
When i bought my first black powder revolver many years ago there weren't resources like this. You tube didnt exist. Thank you for great videos to help others out. I didn't do this to my pietta 1858 Remington bison pistol out of ignorance back then.
Great thing about Ballistol is that it's safe for all surfaces so I use it to clean my grips and holster of fouling. It's also non-toxic so it's not like Hoppes where you'll get sick from inhaling the fumes, but as noted, it's not a very aggressive cleaner due to not having any strong solvents. The bad side of Ballistol is that it stinks to me. It smells like clorinated bacon.
People should do this for all the guns they buy regardless of whether or not it’s black powder. In my experience the factory lube has mostly evaporated from the internals by the time you buy it.
Lube doesn't evaporate. Many lubricants are dissolved in a solvent which does evaporate over time, but the heavier oils that do the job of lubrication and moisture / corrosion protection will not evaporate.
I spent a number of years selling chemicals including degreasers, caution must be used with most of them, its a really good idea to use some kind of chemical resistant gloves (like the blue disposable gloves) as many degreasers contain chemicals that can be absorbed through the skin. Also do not let any degreaser sit on a surface too long as they can etch metal surfaces, if they are cleaned off no problem. Personally I like to use Ballistol to clean the oil off, straight Ballistol will never harm a metal surface and its pretty safe to use. BTW latex gloves are no good since petroleum products attack latex.
Actually, Ballistol is a CLP product that is primarily based on a petroleum oil. This oil is pharmaceutical-grade "white" mineral oil, but it does come from petroleum--it is neither a synthetic oil nor some kind of biological oil. In addition, Ballistol contains a fair amount of alcohol of various types to help it serve as a solvent for cleaning. And the reason it seems to mix with water is that it contains emulsifiers to create a suspension, which is what the "moose milk" is. There are other additives that help with rust-prevention, so it works alright for that, although it's not the best because it doesn't repel water entirely. Don't get me wrong, I think Ballistol is good stuff, both as a CLP for modern firearms and especially as a cleaner for black powder as a component of "moose milk". I'm just pointing out, for edification, that it's not a unique substance unto itself, as many seem to believe, but a mixture of very basic ingredients, including petroleum-derived oil. Personally, I use Weapon Shield for my modern firearms because it's a superior lube and preservative, but I use Ballistol for black powder firearms just like you.
It's just choji oil with an alcohol-based solvent. It's that solvent that allows it to emulsify in water. Choji oil is a 1:100 blend of mineral oil with clove oil and used as a protectant for Japanese swords.
@@DeezyP I'm glad it's back, too, as I use Weapon Shield for multiple purposes, such as door hinges. It doesn't take much, though, because a drop or two stops squeaks for several years, in my experience (any oil should work, but for some reason this one does the job longer for me). I wonder why I didn't get notifications for the other replies. 🤷🏻♂️
A little tip for guys with big hands and aren't afraid to take their guns apart. Many Colt revolvers (and clones) have many interchangeable parts. The longer trigger guard, backstrap and grip panels of the 1860 Army will fit the 1851 Navy, the 1861 Navy and the 1873 Single Action Army.
JUST GOT INTO BLACK POWDER. BOUGHT A USED NAVY COLT 44 CAL. THEN I FOUND A USED 1968 WHITE MOUNTAIN 50 CAL CARBINE. BOTH GUNS NEEDED ALOT OF TLC. THANK YOU FOR SOME POINTERS. BOTH OF MY BP GUNS LOOK AND SHOOT LIKE NEW. HAPPY WITH NEW HOBBY IN RETIREMENT. 🇺🇸
black powder residue + heat+ pressure + petroleum product = TAR. If it is not of animal or vegetable origin it most likely will not work with black powder. I cannot speak for substitutes, except APP, i do not use them. A dab of a anti size compound on nipple threads is a good idea. Ballistol is the trick for BP guns and you will come to love the smell. I have found some interesting things inside the frame that do not belong there so I do clean there when new and once a year after.
After cleaning real good and drying the gun as well as you can I take my parts out side and leave them in the Arizona sun for some time and they dry real well. In side and out. Be cair full when you go to pick the parts up you may find a imprint of the pistol parts on your hand.. YES it gets that hot here. Wipe down with oil reassemble and go shoot the pistol again. I LOVE IT.
Good advice. Young's "303" oil is great too..... mixes with water a treat. It's actually made for corrosive primed .303 British rifles to remove the primer residue, but works wonderfully on black powder guns. Works out cheaper than Ballistol too, which is expensive here (NZ). Some new guns are so 'sticky' that I have resorted to gasoline to get the preservative off (wear gloves and do it outdoors though!). What surprises me is that many people do NOT strip and clean a new gun before using it. BP or smokeless makes no difference. Often there is factory gunk, dirt and even metal chips in them...... Great Vid... tks...
Very good tutorial, thanks for sharing. My own experience with Ballistol , especially for storage, is not so good on rust protection, as I got some superficial rust spots that developped on a Remington new army 1858, although it had been cleaned first with hot water and soap, dried, and covered in Ballistol oil. I'm now trying pure mineral oil, especially the medical USP version that is non toxic (you can actually eat it), has no smell (unlike Ballistol that stinks), does not go rancid, and has proven to be a much better rust protector than any other product (in fact pure mineral oïl is the base component of any other oïl based product).So far so good, after a few months storage without use, I still have no rust spot developing. Just sharing my experience.
We used mineral oil as a rust preventative in the machine shops I worked in. Even in coastal areas, no rusted beds or bedways. I live in Florida now, and use it on my tools that are kept in a non-climate conditioned shop with no real issues. In a really harsh environment, such as marine use, or super high humidity areas like the bayou, you can add a little lanolin to it to really give it a boost. You can make a 50/50 mix of mineral oil and mineral spirits, add some liquid lanolin, and put it in a plastic spray bottle for tools and large surfaces like a table saw bed. (Obviously not for anything contacting food for that one, porbably not best for guns either) Straight food grade mineral oil is also excellent for knives, iron cutlery, and any surface for eating or food prep, like a cutting board or wooden bowl. I've also found that 3-in-1 oil works very well for rust prevention, and does a great job of lubricating the internals that don't require grease as well. I have had guns stored for years in my gun safe with 3-in-1 that have no signs of rust even in Florida. You don't really need to lather either of them on, so a little goes a long way. For guns, I prefer 3-in-1 personally, due to it's dual purpose. Ballistol is supposedly mineral oil based, but contains additives that allow it to mix with water. I think it should work OK at full strength, but as "Moose Milk" the coating left behind by the water evaporating would end up being rather thin, and likely easily be wiped away, losing it's protective properties. Given it's expense vs other oils such as mineral oil and 3-in-1, and the difficulty of obtaining it in my area, I've never tried it. BTW 3-in-1 in the internals of black powder revolvers over the years has never given me an issue, it takes both heat and pressure to cause the fouling to "tar up" and since I use Dawn dish washing liquid to clean, it washes right out with any fouling that gets down in there, ready to be renewed for storage and lubrication. I also have used it in the bore for rust prevention with no issue, just making sure to run a dry patch through to remove it before loading/firing if using black powder. There is so little in the bore that if I forget, I still don't get much of an issue with hard fouling, especially none that requires more than a good brushing afterwards to remove, but why give Murphy his chance. :)
Hey man, I know this is a bit older video, and I’m sorry I did not come across this sooner, but I need to definitely say, THANK YOU! I started on black power when I was 7, with my uncle, building a traditions 50 cal. I liked to “think” I knew a “reasonable” amount about BP firearms, but finding your videos has been awesome, and an eye opener! There are many things you have touched on that I had otherwise not thought of, be it maintenance, proper prepping of a new gun, or just overall usage and cleaning. I was always taught to use boiling water, and then oil. Your recommendation of using ballistol is something I will be using from this point on. Unfortunately, for myself and my time expenditure, I see myself going on a binge watching of your videos now. Haha! Again, Thank you so very much for your time and effort in putting out these videos! You have definitely gained another subscriber!
Ryan Zanow Thanks very much, Ryan! Feel free to enjoy the channel and ask questions any time. TH-cam doesn’t always notify me when a new comment comes in, but I do my best to get to them. Thanks for watching!
I can't thank you enough for answering the questions I've already asked. My Uberti 1860 .44 just arrived. Because I followed your tip to clean the shipping oil off I have more questions. During the delousing I encountered purple dye, dykem I believe. It was washing out from the back of the chambers. 1. Is that normal? I also had one of the nipples completely clogged up with some foreign matter. It took some effort to remove it. 2. Is that normal? When operating the loading lever it seems to get "stuck" in the middle of the stroke. 3. Is that normal? Is the cut out for the nipples supposed to be slightly larger than the hammer alley? Because the cut out in the cylinder is slightly larger is the cylinder supposed to line up even with the left of the hammer alley or is it supposed to be centered?
I was thinking of taking it down and setting the grip panels aside then blasting it and wiping it down a few times with Gun Scrubber or a mild Brake Cleaner. Then heating it up with a hair dryer and frog lubing it. Would that be overkill?
I just got Disk brake clean and degrease it that way. Use Nitrile gloves outside. Does a great job. Oh, don't smoke while using disk brake clean. If you do, your eyebrows will grow back in about 4 months.
I just recieved my pietta .44 navy tank sheriff today, haven't had the opportunity to disassemble it yet for cleaning and preparation, the question I do have is what size jag will I use for the chambers? Thanks for any info you can give me, great video keep em coming
You can use brake cleaner which is also known as Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber for half the price. It will degrease the gun and evaporate immediately to a dry, clean, oil free gun.
Very useful vid. Thanks for the hint to use ballistol. One silly question though: Some BP-shooters claim that they 'soften' the brand-new springs by boling them in water to prevent breakage. Any thoughts on that?
Just a quick question, when using the Krud Kutter, are there any concerns about it migrating into the trigger works? I assume the degreaser is ok on the wood grip finish?? Thanks!
Sir, another great video. I only wish I had these to watch when I started in black powder. I would like to add: I am a fan of Simple Green, also I would advocate complete disassembly and using anti-sieze on all the bolts and nipples. Don't forget to shoot an empty cylinder of caps before live fire. Love black powder. Thanks for advocating and educating. ;)
Have you tried Renaissance Wax as a rust preventative? It was developed for use in preserving arms in the Royal Armory at the Tower of London. Curious how it would react with the black powder fouling, as it really is very good at protecting steel from corrosion.
Renaissance Wax is for swords on display, not actual use. Most sword users utilize mineral oil or gun oil to protect blades. If you use Renaissance Wax on a sword used for actual cutting practice, it scuffs up the wax and makes it unsightly. Renaissance Wax is meant to give you long-term maintenance-free protection for sword blades on display.
@@BogeyTheBear it might look unsightly but you can touch it up, its not like its automotive clear coat I have since posting that question discovered it actually is an excellent long-term rust prevention for firearms in storage. The question is really about if it reacts badly to powder fouling.
Great video! Now do you ever have to do any work on a new black powder gun to make it work more smoothly? I have watched some videos and some people say that the new guns don’t work smoothly and will need some polishing up, have you found this to be true also?
I’ve actually never bought one that was so bad that I had to do that. Sometimes, they need a little break-period to get just right, but I’ve been pretty fortunate with the quality.
I just do it after each cleaning. I now prefer the aerosol version because the included little tube attachment makes it easy to get all the areas and rub it around without much waste. Here’s a link to the aerosol: gunsoftheweststore.com/products/ballistol-6-oz-aerosol
Do you apply any type of anti-seize to the nipple threads, or on the threads of breach plugs on rifle barrels? My modern in-line uses an anti-seize on the breach plug and I can remove that basically by hand without a wrench, but my brother has an old Hawken cap rifle, that breach plug was never treated and will need to be removed with an acetylene torch, lol
blackpowdershooter 44, I'm already having lots of fun with it! I'm working on a video of it right now and it will be posted Saturday morning. Thanks for watching and for your continued support of the channel!
The last rag for the final wipe down was clean and dry, no Ballistol on it, correct? Even after letting the gun soak in moose milk for 10 minutes, I'm worried about wiping too much protective coating away.
I know this videos old but do you have a cleaning kit, on your website im new to this. I just got my gun but like a little kid I I don’t want to wait b ur not rly trying to deal with it being harder later
Dustin, only just saw this. I am wondering about using Dawn dishwashing liquid to degrease instead of the Crud Cutter. The parts would have to be rinsed and dried before using the Ballistol, but I was thinking my old toaster oven set at 200 to 250 would dry the metal. If you see this anytime soon I'd like to know what you think.
Do you recommend Thompson center bore cleaner? I use that on my flintlock along with bore butter. Should I put bore butter on the in side of the barrel of a 1858?
I now just put all the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner with water and a little Dawn dish soap. It gets the factory oil right off. For general cleaning tools, I like this kit: th-cam.com/video/oX83dgd8ZH4/w-d-xo.html
I'd like to know how much the cost new,.....because there's a used one for $600.00 and do you fill out a 7734 form. I suspect that its just like everything else you can't buy primers or powder.
Be careful using Ballistol on brass/copper & chromed or electroplated pieces, as it is very mild copper solvent. It can cause corrosion, pitting or chipping/seperation of electroplated metals on items that have copper in them, or use copper as a substrate.
@Puppy Puppington yes, steel and aluminum are fine. Only copper, and alloys of copper (like brass) are a concern. One way I check for remaining copper fouling in my barrels is to put a patch with ballistol on it (after I have cleaned them) and leave it over night to a few days. Then after that period of time, I run a dry patch down the barrel. If it comes out green/blue, I know I still have fouling in the barrel.
@Puppy Puppington the reason the patch comes out green/blue is because the ballistol has started dissolving the copper in the barrel, which turns it green/blue, as that is what color copper based metals turn when they oxidize/corrode.
Dustin, so you have storefront? It would be fun to come up and talk black powder guns with you. I live in that little college town just south of you. I do like your videos.
For the 1858 when you clean it do you have to do a complete disassembly I've had an 1858 for about 3 years now and have not shot it because I'm afraid of this assembling it
OK, What about the inner workings of the gun? I think we all know that BP is corrosive. What, how often, and what product should be used to keep all of those small, fine tolerance parts from corroding and functioning properly? I am blessed in I am very mechanical. but most folks are not that lucky. Is there a product that can just be sprayed down all of those little nooks and crannies that will work for that?
First thing to do: replace the trigger/bolt spring with a Wolff spring. Just got my Pietta 1861 Navy. Beautiful piece. However, the aforementioned spring shattered the same day it arrived after pulling the hammer back about 2 dozen times. Not impressed. Research of forums makes this seem like an all to common occurrence with these guns. Guess I'll have to wait another week or more for the spring to arrive to take it to the range.
Carb cleaner or brake cleaner spray would roll all the oil out in a hurry. I'd use rubber gloves so no finger prints, harder to get stuff like Balistol to penetrate if has fingerprint.
Prepare it? You mean scrubbing bubbles or dawn and hot water? Don’t need that expensive balistol, dawn and hot water do a fine job. For really stubborn dirt scrubbing bubbles (nonchlorinated) and again hot water to rinse. Cold water can be used but you have to manually dry and will use more patches doing that.
I'm having an exceptionally difficult time finding percussion caps #10. I live in PA and all the gun shops around me are bust. I've looked online but the sites I found have minimum orders and what seem to be "shady" payment methods; no options for normal credit cards or Paypal. Could you possibly point me in the right direction? The caps are the last item I need to get shooting but I don't want to get scammed buying some.
Hi there, I’m just about to buy my first revolver. Some you tube shooters put their revolvers in a dish washer to clean them, what are your thoughts about this please? Cheers, Chris from the UK.
Hi, Chris! Personally, I would not put a gun in the dishwasher. I’ve seen people do that and end up with rust on their guns. Also, it can leave potentially-serious toxins, such as lead, in the place where food dishes are washed. It’s best to stick to the more traditional methods of gun cleaning, which I have several videos on. Thanks for watching!
I tried that once and ran it though the whole cycle. wash, rinse and dry cycle it had rust growing already. no real reason to do that but if you must do that pull it out as soon as the rinse cycle is done. never though about the lead getting in the washer. I heat mine with a hair drier after washing, it doesn't get too hot and clears the water out.
I've been to at least half a dozen sport and gun shops in my area and I can never find Ballistol at any of them. Who knows an online store that I can order it from?
I have used non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean the factory grease and oil off of new firearms and it has done quite well and is pretty inexpensive. Is there a problem using this? Of course I don't get it on the grips and lubricate appropriately after? Just looking for a knowledgeable opinion as this is all new to me.
Great video. but i seem to fail in understanding two aspects of your cleaning technique. 1) I been using petroleum oil (car oil, 10W 40, 10W 30, 5W 30) for all of my shooting life as a protection to metal parts and as a lubricating oil. I find that extensive shooting with a gun that uses Silicon based oil or light oil, doesn't hold up against the black powder fouling. AKA it makes the fouling sticky, clumpy or thick. Which makes the cylinder not function smoothly. This is especially true for the 1858 Remington (once you fire 24rds or more). The colts dont have this problem as bad or at all. 2) you were using a jag to clean the chambers, now i dont know how your cleaning your BP revolvers other than spaying it with your moose milk and using a jag to get the bulk out of the barrel and chambers is my understanding. I find that with the jag the cleaning rag cleans out the contact surfaces of the chamber but also pushes fouling to the rear of the chamber and into your threads of the cylinder itself. using a q-tip in there will leave lint that will rust the threads. My solution is to use a cleaning tool that i can put a rag through (like in my video) and fold over the rag forward as i put it into the cylinder then turn it left and right several turns. this seems to get it all out. to actually clean the threads i use a surgery clamp and a smaller thin piece of cleaning rag and thread it into the hole, it gets it all out. i just wanted to share that with you.
First, thank you very much for watching and taking the time to leave your thoughts! I really do appreciate it! To answer your questions, I’m actually not sure how all non-petroleum oils will hold up, but the Ballistol that I use has done very well on my percussion revolvers and also on my 1873 Single Action cartridge gun, which I also use black powder in. Regarding the chambers, I’ve never had any fouling get stuck in the rear of the chambers, but I start by running the whole cylinder under hot water, so most of the fouling is gone before the first patch goes in. I just finished a percussion revolver cleaning video last night, which I’ll be posting on the Saturday after Christmas. It will show the method that I use. Thanks again for watching!
Understood, I use hot water. Hot water is great because if you get the gun parts hot it will self dry. Only problem is you must get the fouling out before it cools or it will surface rust a tad bit. Currently, i picked up a "Navy Arms" brand 1858 Remington made in 1968 (Uberty). I am working on improving the accuracy. It's a little worn as rifling goes and its been neglected in a few minor ways. That will be the next video i make.
Check out the Guns of the West store here: gunsoftheweststore.com
Thank you for pronouncing Ballistol correctly. You have restored my faith in humanity
From the German way of saying bullet lube
Thank you. I am just getting started in black powder firearms, so the more I can learn the better off I am.
Watched practically every video you have on BP. I did this too, as you recommended, after I bought my 1851 Navy in 36 cal. After months of going to your Black Powder College Classes, I think I am ready to try out BP for the first time this week. Olympic National Forest.
Awesome! Have fun!
I just received my first bp pistol in mail. 1851 navy sheriff 5.5" barrel. I will now clean it exactly like you just showed us. Ty
I purchased a Makarov (full of grease). I used dawn dish washer liquid. It cleaned up the oil (but left it dry). I then used a lubircant to clean the gun. Dawn works very well to cut grease.
When i bought my first black powder revolver many years ago there weren't resources like this. You tube didnt exist. Thank you for great videos to help others out. I didn't do this to my pietta 1858 Remington bison pistol out of ignorance back then.
Excellent info. That's 2 people that I know who recommend Ballistol. Will have to try it.
I don't use it on modern guns because I like something a little more aggressive for those (though it will work), but I love it for black powder guns.
I use Ballistol on all my pistols. Works great.
Great thing about Ballistol is that it's safe for all surfaces so I use it to clean my grips and holster of fouling. It's also non-toxic so it's not like Hoppes where you'll get sick from inhaling the fumes, but as noted, it's not a very aggressive cleaner due to not having any strong solvents. The bad side of Ballistol is that it stinks to me. It smells like clorinated bacon.
AND,THERE'S ASO THE SYNTHETIC CLP GUN OIL.''THE-G96 BRAND
Ballistol works and has a rich history
Ballistol, man's best friend! Merry Christmas to you and yours!
People should do this for all the guns they buy regardless of whether or not it’s black powder. In my experience the factory lube has mostly evaporated from the internals by the time you buy it.
Lube doesn't evaporate. Many lubricants are dissolved in a solvent which does evaporate over time, but the heavier oils that do the job of lubrication and moisture / corrosion protection will not evaporate.
Correct @@MrItsthething
I spent a number of years selling chemicals including degreasers, caution must be used with most of them, its a really good idea to use some kind of chemical resistant gloves (like the blue disposable gloves) as many degreasers contain chemicals that can be absorbed through the skin. Also do not let any degreaser sit on a surface too long as they can etch metal surfaces, if they are cleaned off no problem. Personally I like to use Ballistol to clean the oil off, straight Ballistol will never harm a metal surface and its pretty safe to use. BTW latex gloves are no good since petroleum products attack latex.
I also use canned air to blow out any oil or water caught in tight places.
That's what she said
Actually, Ballistol is a CLP product that is primarily based on a petroleum oil. This oil is pharmaceutical-grade "white" mineral oil, but it does come from petroleum--it is neither a synthetic oil nor some kind of biological oil. In addition, Ballistol contains a fair amount of alcohol of various types to help it serve as a solvent for cleaning. And the reason it seems to mix with water is that it contains emulsifiers to create a suspension, which is what the "moose milk" is. There are other additives that help with rust-prevention, so it works alright for that, although it's not the best because it doesn't repel water entirely.
Don't get me wrong, I think Ballistol is good stuff, both as a CLP for modern firearms and especially as a cleaner for black powder as a component of "moose milk". I'm just pointing out, for edification, that it's not a unique substance unto itself, as many seem to believe, but a mixture of very basic ingredients, including petroleum-derived oil. Personally, I use Weapon Shield for my modern firearms because it's a superior lube and preservative, but I use Ballistol for black powder firearms just like you.
Thanks, I was wondering what was in ballistol all through the video. My next move was going to be google, but you seem believable....lol
Well said - thanks 👍
It's just choji oil with an alcohol-based solvent. It's that solvent that allows it to emulsify in water.
Choji oil is a 1:100 blend of mineral oil with clove oil and used as a protectant for Japanese swords.
I know this comment is 6 years old, but seeing it reminds me how happy I am that weapon shield is coming back!
@@DeezyP I'm glad it's back, too, as I use Weapon Shield for multiple purposes, such as door hinges. It doesn't take much, though, because a drop or two stops squeaks for several years, in my experience (any oil should work, but for some reason this one does the job longer for me).
I wonder why I didn't get notifications for the other replies. 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks. I knew to wipe and clean my gun before loading/shooting, but the use of Ballistol is a good tip. Thumb up for that.
I didn’t know that about oil on the gun. I am new to black powder revolvers. Thanks for the video!
Greetings from Ireland. Looking good. I can't wait to see it in action. It'll come in handy should the High Fructose Gang show up.
It sure will! I've got 'em runnin' scared now! LOL!!
A little tip for guys with big hands and aren't afraid to take their guns apart. Many Colt revolvers (and clones) have many interchangeable parts. The longer trigger guard, backstrap and grip panels of the 1860 Army will fit the 1851 Navy, the 1861 Navy and the 1873 Single Action Army.
Just ask tuco the rat. In the classic film “the good the bad and the ugly”
Balistol is great for cleaning all my firearms. It leaves a seasoning like a on a cast iron skillet and makes subsequent cleanings easier.
JUST GOT INTO BLACK POWDER. BOUGHT A USED NAVY COLT 44 CAL. THEN I FOUND A USED 1968 WHITE MOUNTAIN 50 CAL CARBINE. BOTH GUNS NEEDED ALOT OF TLC. THANK YOU FOR SOME POINTERS. BOTH OF MY BP GUNS LOOK AND SHOOT LIKE NEW. HAPPY WITH NEW HOBBY IN RETIREMENT. 🇺🇸
Thank you. Was going to shoot 2 newly acquired pistols TODAY; glad I watched this 1st
black powder residue + heat+ pressure + petroleum product = TAR. If it is not of animal or vegetable origin it most likely will not work with black powder. I cannot speak for substitutes, except APP, i do not use them.
A dab of a anti size compound on nipple threads is a good idea. Ballistol is the trick for BP guns and you will come to love the smell.
I have found some interesting things inside the frame that do not belong there so I do clean there when new and once a year after.
The shark steamer wand works really well at releasing all the oil without making a giant mess. It’s also nice and warm so you can apply dry lubricant.
After cleaning real good and drying the gun as well as you can I take my parts out side and leave them in the Arizona sun for some time and they dry real well. In side and out. Be cair full when you go to pick the parts up you may find a imprint of the pistol parts on your hand.. YES it gets that hot here. Wipe down with oil reassemble and go shoot the pistol again. I LOVE IT.
Good advice.
Young's "303" oil is great too..... mixes with water a treat. It's actually made for corrosive primed .303 British rifles to remove the primer residue, but works wonderfully on black powder guns. Works out cheaper than Ballistol too, which is expensive here (NZ).
Some new guns are so 'sticky' that I have resorted to gasoline to get the preservative off (wear gloves and do it outdoors though!).
What surprises me is that many people do NOT strip and clean a new gun before using it. BP or smokeless makes no difference. Often there is factory gunk, dirt and even metal chips in them......
Great Vid... tks...
Thanks for watching! I’ll have to see if I can find some of that Young’s 303 oil.
It smells nicer than Ballistol too.... LOL
303 oil is a bit pricy in the states. $15 for 4oz (125ml) plus shipping. It is good though and will emulsify in water like Ballistol.
This, too, is my method for cleaning new percussion shooters. Good for you and thank you for this spot-on video, sir!
Very good tutorial, thanks for sharing. My own experience with Ballistol , especially for storage, is not so good on rust protection, as I got some superficial rust spots that developped on a Remington new army 1858, although it had been cleaned first with hot water and soap, dried, and covered in Ballistol oil. I'm now trying pure mineral oil, especially the medical USP version that is non toxic (you can actually eat it), has no smell (unlike Ballistol that stinks), does not go rancid, and has proven to be a much better rust protector than any other product (in fact pure mineral oïl is the base component of any other oïl based product).So far so good, after a few months storage without use, I still have no rust spot developing. Just sharing my experience.
Thanks for watching!
We used mineral oil as a rust preventative in the machine shops I worked in. Even in coastal areas, no rusted beds or bedways. I live in Florida now, and use it on my tools that are kept in a non-climate conditioned shop with no real issues. In a really harsh environment, such as marine use, or super high humidity areas like the bayou, you can add a little lanolin to it to really give it a boost. You can make a 50/50 mix of mineral oil and mineral spirits, add some liquid lanolin, and put it in a plastic spray bottle for tools and large surfaces like a table saw bed. (Obviously not for anything contacting food for that one, porbably not best for guns either) Straight food grade mineral oil is also excellent for knives, iron cutlery, and any surface for eating or food prep, like a cutting board or wooden bowl.
I've also found that 3-in-1 oil works very well for rust prevention, and does a great job of lubricating the internals that don't require grease as well. I have had guns stored for years in my gun safe with 3-in-1 that have no signs of rust even in Florida. You don't really need to lather either of them on, so a little goes a long way. For guns, I prefer 3-in-1 personally, due to it's dual purpose.
Ballistol is supposedly mineral oil based, but contains additives that allow it to mix with water. I think it should work OK at full strength, but as "Moose Milk" the coating left behind by the water evaporating would end up being rather thin, and likely easily be wiped away, losing it's protective properties. Given it's expense vs other oils such as mineral oil and 3-in-1, and the difficulty of obtaining it in my area, I've never tried it.
BTW 3-in-1 in the internals of black powder revolvers over the years has never given me an issue, it takes both heat and pressure to cause the fouling to "tar up" and since I use Dawn dish washing liquid to clean, it washes right out with any fouling that gets down in there, ready to be renewed for storage and lubrication. I also have used it in the bore for rust prevention with no issue, just making sure to run a dry patch through to remove it before loading/firing if using black powder. There is so little in the bore that if I forget, I still don't get much of an issue with hard fouling, especially none that requires more than a good brushing afterwards to remove, but why give Murphy his chance. :)
Welll. Now idk what to trust or use lol
Hey man, I know this is a bit older video, and I’m sorry I did not come across this sooner, but I need to definitely say, THANK YOU! I started on black power when I was 7, with my uncle, building a traditions 50 cal. I liked to “think” I knew a “reasonable” amount about BP firearms, but finding your videos has been awesome, and an eye opener! There are many things you have touched on that I had otherwise not thought of, be it maintenance, proper prepping of a new gun, or just overall usage and cleaning. I was always taught to use boiling water, and then oil. Your recommendation of using ballistol is something I will be using from this point on. Unfortunately, for myself and my time expenditure, I see myself going on a binge watching of your videos now. Haha! Again, Thank you so very much for your time and effort in putting out these videos! You have definitely gained another subscriber!
Ryan Zanow Thanks very much, Ryan! Feel free to enjoy the channel and ask questions any time. TH-cam doesn’t always notify me when a new comment comes in, but I do my best to get to them. Thanks for watching!
I can't thank you enough for answering the questions I've already asked. My Uberti 1860 .44 just arrived. Because I followed your tip to clean the shipping oil off I have more questions. During the delousing I encountered purple dye, dykem I believe. It was washing out from the back of the chambers. 1. Is that normal? I also had one of the nipples completely clogged up with some foreign matter. It took some effort to remove it. 2. Is that normal? When operating the loading lever it seems to get "stuck" in the middle of the stroke. 3. Is that normal? Is the cut out for the nipples supposed to be slightly larger than the hammer alley? Because the cut out in the cylinder is slightly larger is the cylinder supposed to line up even with the left of the hammer alley or is it supposed to be centered?
I like oil eater. It really works well
Great info! I am going to try this on my new Uberti.
Im going to get into black powder. Im going to buy a hawken rifle and a 1851 navy to start. i cant wait. love your videos, Thank You.
Hows the hawken?
I was thinking of taking it down and setting the grip panels aside then blasting it and wiping it down a few times with Gun Scrubber or a mild Brake Cleaner. Then heating it up with a hair dryer and frog lubing it. Would that be overkill?
I've actually purchased a1851 navy in 36 as my first BP revolver. haven't received it yet but should have got the dragoon 1st or second model
159 likes and 0 dis! That Ballistol is great stuff!
I just got Disk brake clean and degrease it that way. Use Nitrile gloves outside. Does a great job. Oh, don't smoke while using disk brake clean. If you do, your eyebrows will grow back in about 4 months.
Very enjoyable video Dustin, thanks for sharing. I use Ballistol as well
Thanks for watching!
I just recieved my pietta .44 navy tank sheriff today, haven't had the opportunity to disassemble it yet for cleaning and preparation, the question I do have is what size jag will I use for the chambers? Thanks for any info you can give me, great video keep em coming
I use the same .44 jag for both the bore and the chambers.
@@GunsOfTheWest awesome, thank you for the info
You can use brake cleaner which is also known as Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber for half the price. It will degrease the gun and evaporate immediately to a dry, clean, oil free gun.
I was thinking you could save a lot of time using a solvent that evaporates quickly lol
Mineral spirits, too. I'd soak the disassembled firearm in it (minus the grips) and it will be degreased.
Very useful vid. Thanks for the hint to use ballistol. One silly question though: Some BP-shooters claim that they 'soften' the brand-new springs by boling them in water to prevent breakage. Any thoughts on that?
I’ve actually never tried that, but I haven’t had any trouble with my springs. Thanks for watching!
Just a quick question, when using the Krud Kutter, are there any concerns about it migrating into the trigger works? I assume the degreaser is ok on the wood grip finish?? Thanks!
Sir, another great video. I only wish I had these to watch when I started in black powder.
I would like to add: I am a fan of Simple Green, also I would advocate complete disassembly and using anti-sieze on all the bolts and nipples. Don't forget to shoot an empty cylinder of caps before live fire.
Love black powder. Thanks for advocating and educating. ;)
Thanks for watching!
Im new to black powder, why would you shoot an empty cylinder of caps before live fire?
@@jmwsr474 to burn out any excess oils
Have you tried Renaissance Wax as a rust preventative? It was developed for use in preserving arms in the Royal Armory at the Tower of London.
Curious how it would react with the black powder fouling, as it really is very good at protecting steel from corrosion.
I haven’t tried that.
Renaissance Wax is for swords on display, not actual use. Most sword users utilize mineral oil or gun oil to protect blades. If you use Renaissance Wax on a sword used for actual cutting practice, it scuffs up the wax and makes it unsightly. Renaissance Wax is meant to give you long-term maintenance-free protection for sword blades on display.
@@BogeyTheBear it might look unsightly but you can touch it up, its not like its automotive clear coat
I have since posting that question discovered it actually is an excellent long-term rust prevention for firearms in storage. The question is really about if it reacts badly to powder fouling.
I would have liked to have seen how u did the disassembly and reassembly of the gun.
Here’s a link to my video on disassembly.
th-cam.com/video/5tCdfnoIbSQ/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching!
Do you do any deburring or parts polishing on a new revolver? Thanks
I’ve never bothered with that, but I’ve never really had one that was very bad to begin with.
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Now do you ever have to do any work on a new black powder gun to make it work more smoothly? I have watched some videos and some people say that the new guns don’t work smoothly and will need some polishing up, have you found this to be true also?
I’ve actually never bought one that was so bad that I had to do that. Sometimes, they need a little break-period to get just right, but I’ve been pretty fortunate with the quality.
What’s the tool your using to push into the cylinder?
Can you use dish soap and hot water ? Thanks.
Yes, a lot of dish soaps are degreasers also.
@@GunsOfTheWest Thank you very much.
After the initial cleaning, how many accurate shots can you get before cleaning again?
You can go out and shoot it accurately quite a bit in a day, but it needs to be cleaned soon after each range session.
How often do you apply a new coat of ballistol ?
I just do it after each cleaning. I now prefer the aerosol version because the included little tube attachment makes it easy to get all the areas and rub it around without much waste. Here’s a link to the aerosol: gunsoftheweststore.com/products/ballistol-6-oz-aerosol
I noticed your jag has a nice long spike to get into the nipple holes.
Your videos are pretty awesome.
There’s a screw on my uberti 1861 navy colt above the wedge pin should I loosen it or leave it in?
I always just leave that one in.
Do you apply any type of anti-seize to the nipple threads, or on the threads of breach plugs on rifle barrels? My modern in-line uses an anti-seize on the breach plug and I can remove that basically by hand without a wrench, but my brother has an old Hawken cap rifle, that breach plug was never treated and will need to be removed with an acetylene torch, lol
I use an anti-seize grease from Thompson Center. Choke tube lube also works.
So is the holster style in the intro just for the flare?
You're going to like that walker! Great video
blackpowdershooter 44, I'm already having lots of fun with it! I'm working on a video of it right now and it will be posted Saturday morning. Thanks for watching and for your continued support of the channel!
The last rag for the final wipe down was clean and dry, no Ballistol on it, correct? Even after letting the gun soak in moose milk for 10 minutes, I'm worried about wiping too much protective coating away.
I know this videos old but do you have a cleaning kit, on your website im new to this. I just got my gun but like a little kid I I don’t want to wait b ur not rly trying to deal with it being harder later
Thank you for this.
Dustin, only just saw this. I am wondering about using Dawn dishwashing liquid to degrease instead of the Crud Cutter. The parts would have to be rinsed and dried before using the Ballistol, but I was thinking my old toaster oven set at 200 to 250 would dry the metal. If you see this anytime soon I'd like to know what you think.
That also works well.
How do you tighten the arbor on a black powder pistol😢
Nice video, Dustin.
Do you recommend Thompson center bore cleaner? I use that on my flintlock along with bore butter. Should I put bore butter on the in side of the barrel of a 1858?
Yes
What cleaning kit do you use?
I now just put all the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner with water and a little Dawn dish soap. It gets the factory oil right off. For general cleaning tools, I like this kit: th-cam.com/video/oX83dgd8ZH4/w-d-xo.html
@@GunsOfTheWest no more simple green in the ultrasonic?
@@GunsOfTheWest no lore simple green in the ultrasonic?
Could you use dish soap to cut the oil and grease?🤔
Yes.
What size and kind of jag was that one? Need one for my pietta new army.
Wish I had done this with my first BP revolver. When I did clean it after shooting it was one big black soupy mess hahaha!
Would you be able to put the ballistol in a spray bottle instead and wipe after.
Check out Ballistol. The history behind that stuff alone is cool already!
I used it in this video and many others on the channel.
Hello from Sweden 🇸🇪
Beautiful cowboy revolver 😀👍👍👍
Does it also apply to inox versions of these guns?
It’s actually a good thing to do with any new gun. Thanks for watching!
Tell the new bees why you clean the barrel from the breech end. Love the video, have a new Walker that I need to watch this again in 3 weeks...
Thank you
Good info. Thank you for video.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great video.
Thank you!
Great video. Thanks for the info
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
I'd like to know how much the cost new,.....because there's a used one for $600.00 and do you fill out a 7734 form.
I suspect that its just like everything else you can't buy primers or powder.
That’s too expensive for the Uberti Walker. A new one can be found for about $150 less than that at stores like Cabela’s.
Be careful using Ballistol on brass/copper & chromed or electroplated pieces, as it is very mild copper solvent. It can cause corrosion, pitting or chipping/seperation of electroplated metals on items that have copper in them, or use copper as a substrate.
So it’s good on steel frames? But as soon as any copper or brass mixes are involved don’t over use?
@Puppy Puppington yes, steel and aluminum are fine. Only copper, and alloys of copper (like brass) are a concern. One way I check for remaining copper fouling in my barrels is to put a patch with ballistol on it (after I have cleaned them) and leave it over night to a few days. Then after that period of time, I run a dry patch down the barrel. If it comes out green/blue, I know I still have fouling in the barrel.
@Puppy Puppington the reason the patch comes out green/blue is because the ballistol has started dissolving the copper in the barrel, which turns it green/blue, as that is what color copper based metals turn when they oxidize/corrode.
Dustin, so you have storefront? It would be fun to come up and talk black powder guns with you. I live in that little college town just south of you. I do like your videos.
Unfortunately, I don’t. It’s all just online.
Where do you get the proper screw drivers for disassembly and assembly of the black powder revolvers?🤔
To be honest, I use a $10 multi-bit set that I bought at the local grocery store. Just make sure to use one that fits the screws perfectly.
Where did you find the cleaning jag? I’ve been having a hard time locating a good one...
It’s been a long time, but I believe I bought it at Cabela’s as a part of a set.
For the 1858 when you clean it do you have to do a complete disassembly I've had an 1858 for about 3 years now and have not shot it because I'm afraid of this assembling it
I just remove the grips and soak them for a few hours in WD-40 . And then give them a good wipe down then lube all the internals components.
Excellent !! H.
OK, What about the inner workings of the gun? I think we all know that BP is corrosive. What, how often, and what product should be used to keep all of those small, fine tolerance parts from corroding and functioning properly? I am blessed in I am very mechanical. but most folks are not that lucky. Is there a product that can just be sprayed down all of those little nooks and crannies that will work for that?
I use brake cleaner to remove the oil and grease from a spray can. Probably trichloroathane!
Great LARP video!
I didn't do any of this and loaded my brand new 1858 Pietta already, help me duelist1954! Will it be ok to fire out of the box new and loaded?
2 months since this post. Curious if your 1858 fired?
First thing to do: replace the trigger/bolt spring with a Wolff spring. Just got my Pietta 1861 Navy. Beautiful piece. However, the aforementioned spring shattered the same day it arrived after pulling the hammer back about 2 dozen times. Not impressed. Research of forums makes this seem like an all to common occurrence with these guns. Guess I'll have to wait another week or more for the spring to arrive to take it to the range.
Carb cleaner or brake cleaner spray would roll all the oil out in a hurry. I'd use rubber gloves so no finger prints, harder to get stuff like Balistol to penetrate if has fingerprint.
Prepare it? You mean scrubbing bubbles or dawn and hot water? Don’t need that expensive balistol, dawn and hot water do a fine job. For really stubborn dirt scrubbing bubbles (nonchlorinated) and again hot water to rinse. Cold water can be used but you have to manually dry and will use more patches doing that.
I'm having an exceptionally difficult time finding percussion caps #10. I live in PA and all the gun shops around me are bust. I've looked online but the sites I found have minimum orders and what seem to be "shady" payment methods; no options for normal credit cards or Paypal. Could you possibly point me in the right direction? The caps are the last item I need to get shooting but I don't want to get scammed buying some.
Gunbroker, overpriced but legit
Simplesmente lindas.
Hi there, I’m just about to buy my first revolver. Some you tube shooters put their revolvers in a dish washer to clean them, what are your thoughts about this please? Cheers, Chris from the UK.
Hi, Chris! Personally, I would not put a gun in the dishwasher. I’ve seen people do that and end up with rust on their guns. Also, it can leave potentially-serious toxins, such as lead, in the place where food dishes are washed. It’s best to stick to the more traditional methods of gun cleaning, which I have several videos on. Thanks for watching!
I tried that once and ran it though the whole cycle. wash, rinse and dry cycle it had rust growing already. no real reason to do that but if you must do that pull it out as soon as the rinse cycle is done. never though about the lead getting in the washer. I heat mine with a hair drier after washing, it doesn't get too hot and clears the water out.
Question, I have a cap and ball 1858, for cleaning after every use,do you need to remove the nipples and if so how tight do you re-tighten? Thank you.
I've been to at least half a dozen sport and gun shops in my area and I can never find Ballistol at any of them. Who knows an online store that I can order it from?
ebay that is where I got mine.
Amazon.
Well sir,You left out how to remove degreaser from the small pistons ("nipples You call them) and apply Ballistol. Too difficult?
Same process as every other piece of the gun.
I have used non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean the factory grease and oil off of new firearms and it has done quite well and is pretty inexpensive. Is there a problem using this? Of course I don't get it on the grips and lubricate appropriately after? Just looking for a knowledgeable opinion as this is all new to me.
Great video. but i seem to fail in understanding two aspects of your cleaning technique.
1) I been using petroleum oil (car oil, 10W 40, 10W 30, 5W 30) for all of my shooting life as a protection to metal parts and as a lubricating oil. I find that extensive shooting with a gun that uses Silicon based oil or light oil, doesn't hold up against the black powder fouling. AKA it makes the fouling sticky, clumpy or thick. Which makes the cylinder not function smoothly. This is especially true for the 1858 Remington (once you fire 24rds or more). The colts dont have this problem as bad or at all.
2) you were using a jag to clean the chambers, now i dont know how your cleaning your BP revolvers other than spaying it with your moose milk and using a jag to get the bulk out of the barrel and chambers is my understanding. I find that with the jag the cleaning rag cleans out the contact surfaces of the chamber but also pushes fouling to the rear of the chamber and into your threads of the cylinder itself. using a q-tip in there will leave lint that will rust the threads. My solution is to use a cleaning tool that i can put a rag through (like in my video) and fold over the rag forward as i put it into the cylinder then turn it left and right several turns. this seems to get it all out. to actually clean the threads i use a surgery clamp and a smaller thin piece of cleaning rag and thread it into the hole, it gets it all out. i just wanted to share that with you.
First, thank you very much for watching and taking the time to leave your thoughts! I really do appreciate it!
To answer your questions, I’m actually not sure how all non-petroleum oils will hold up, but the Ballistol that I use has done very well on my percussion revolvers and also on my 1873 Single Action cartridge gun, which I also use black powder in.
Regarding the chambers, I’ve never had any fouling get stuck in the rear of the chambers, but I start by running the whole cylinder under hot water, so most of the fouling is gone before the first patch goes in. I just finished a percussion revolver cleaning video last night, which I’ll be posting on the Saturday after Christmas. It will show the method that I use.
Thanks again for watching!
Understood, I use hot water. Hot water is great because if you get the gun parts hot it will self dry. Only problem is you must get the fouling out before it cools or it will surface rust a tad bit.
Currently, i picked up a "Navy Arms" brand 1858 Remington made in 1968 (Uberty). I am working on improving the accuracy. It's a little worn as rifling goes and its been neglected in a few minor ways. That will be the next video i make.
Yeah, I’ve had that surface rust too. Comes off pretty easy though. By the way, I just subscribed to your channel. Looks like good stuff!
Thanks for subscribing...
Why can't you use 100% ballisttor?
After the gun is degreased, I do use 100% Ballistol to oil it.
I'm from jersey.