The best thing to use on getting the pots and switch through the holes is to use a 1/4th inside diameter and a 5/16th outside diameter clear plastic tubing, it fits over the pot shafts and switch shaft very well, and will fit through pot and switch holes to pull them through without scuffing up the guitar.
Wow excellent job what was a cheap Guitar is now a one of a kind Classic 50s style beautiful piece of work and so much fiddling around talk about patience I’m sure that your pop will love it credit where credits due kudos to you
Always leave a bit of insulation, for ID, if possible Use two clove hitches, and a dab of CA glue when fishing wires... Buy a 100 watt soldering iron at the chinese tool store for ground, and other, heavier applications If ya can't tie a knot, tie alot? A piece of shrink tubing would be helpful, shrunk over the string and wire, and won't be as likely to catch on the way through... Love the video! I've been building parts caster basses, and just picked up 3 Glarry kid's basses to mod, including one fretless conversion. I source everything from eBay, Amazon, Guitar Fetish, AliExpress, And Harbor freight
Great review bro, B.C.P. guitars originate from the Shandong province of China as do most of the budget knockoffs. I bought the tobacco burst ES-335 just for an exercise guitar that I could leave on a stand 24/7 so you're more inclined to play or just noodle around to keep from getting rusted up. I was lucky with the finish, not a bit of orange peel or fish eye. The head stock was actually a melamine wrap with B.C.P. in very small print. you are absolutely correct about everything in your review. I've seen some reviews of this guitar saying it's playable right out the box. What a load of B.S. They're not even tunable out of the box. The ABS nut was cut so high you couldn't play an open chord. So I replaced it with a bone nut and filed the string slots, got rid of the jankey Tune O matic bridge and replaced it with a nice roller bridge. The fret were so high it would just go out of tune if you chorded it so there was a lot of fret filing to get intonation correct. Also I raised the stop tail piece so there is very little bend in the strings. that brought intonation to a perfect point. The cheap machine heads didn't slip so I just left them. The 3 way toggle was wired wrong so I didn't have volume separation from neck to bridge pickups. all that being said I now have a good playing exercise guitar for a little over $200.00. You did a great job on the head stock. How did you not damage the water slides with the sand paper? Thanks again for the detailed review, you've inspired me to replace the pickups with P90s and replace the pods and switch.. Oh your thoughts on how that composite fretboard feels to you...
Thank you for watching! I will definitely try raising the tailpiece on some of my guitars that I'm having intonation issues with. I wish I had swapped the nut for a bone nut. I had a couple laying around from other projects that never came to fruition. Unfortunately, I couldn't find them when I was working on it. Will probably have him bring it back to swap it out. As far as the decals go, you just have to bury them in several coats of lacquer. TBH I didn't realize it was a synthetic fretboard. I will make it a point to check that out when I swap the nut out. I learned a lot about this project just now from reading your comment! It really means a lot to me that you found inspiration in my video! Makes me want to make more! It's a much better world when we're inspiring each other. Keep on rocking 😎
@@ROCKNROLLMODS Thanks for your reply bro. I'm absolutely sure you know to cut around the nut before tapping it off and tap it toward the head stock. I used Gibson lemon oil on the composite fret board to hydrate it. But, it still has that Formica feel to me. I've just gotten spoiled from playing on rose wood. It's really a shame what Obama did with the importation ban on rosewood. Yet the Hollywood elite will bull dose down a whole red wood forest so they can build their 10,000 square foot mini vacation homes in Aspen. Thanks for listening to my rant. I'll be sure to subscribe to your cast.
@@misterghee1 yea buddy, I did. I've actually had the guitar for almost two years. After a few modifications the intonation is finally perfect. The finish on the guitar was surprisingly good, even the F-Holes are bound. No orange peel or fish eye not even bleed over on the binding. However a ton of fret filing, replaced the abs nut with a bone nut there was a lot of bridge rattle and you could not get the intonation right so I replaced it with a Strew Mac roller bridge. I left the janky humbuckers and pods. The composite fret board still feels like Formica to me. I don't recommend this guitar or any other knock off unless you have Luthier skills. Definitely not for a beginner. All said I've got $200.00 in it total. And I don't care if my dog or company knocks it off the stand. My 1973 Gibson ES-335 dot doesn't come out of the case unless I'm home alone. Thanks for question.
Definitely! I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better deal for a 335 type guitar. Just have to be willing to put a little time into it. Thanks a ton for watching.
Turned out pretty slick!!!! Love the p90 how did it sound prior to the build? I bought the grote version came all dialed in humbuckers unpotted sounds real nice clean super clean and a little reverb but it turns to mud quick, I’m waiting for all my replacement parts!!!!! Rock n roll!!!!
Thanks so much for watching! I know that this video ran long! The original pickups were pretty decent. They sound good at low levels. I didn't actually try them in a "band setting" with amps cranked, but in my experience, these less expensive pickups squeal pretty bad when cranked. I am building this guitar for my father, who will never use them at high volumes, And they would have been fine, but these P90's are a little more detailed than the stock humbuckers would be for clean tones.
Rocky, you had me cringing watching soldering and splatter of flux and solder on the top after you spent time buffing it up with McGuires. If you're going to solder on the top of the guitar like that you should put some protection there at least like a rag of some kind to work on to prevent that solder splatter and scratching. The other thing you can do is to tape up the edge of your F holes with masking tape also to prevent the scratching trying to get those parts through there. As far as the whole video goes it's a bit long. I noticed you sped up your voice to make it go faster but here's a trick. Break long work like this down into 15 to 20 minutes segments and you'll get more people to watch more of the segment without clicking through or just feeding it up and missing a lot of the work. Being the nerd that I am and I show a lot of this on my channel as well I learned to make my videos shorter. This increases the click Through Time that the video gets so people watch more minutes of it. Also breaking it down into more segments gives you more content on the channel and makes them want to come back to see what happens in the next segment. The headstock looks way better with your mods to it.
I appreciate it. This is a make-shift work shop that I am filming in, so things are a bit improvised. And i am trying to find good ways to film so that the process is visible. If you check out the next series on "modding the iyv les paul copy," which is a super in-depth video on making an inexpensive guitar, an absolute shredding machine. Including installation of Zakk Wylde EMG 81/85 set, fret leveling, crowning, rolling the fretboard, etc. Even doing a complete refinish. This series will be broken up into several parts so that there are no videos longer than 20 minutes, and they will all be packed with information. My apologies for the cringe 😬. Generally, I will tell the good people of TH-cam-land, sort of a disclaimer of sorts, things like "shield it from spatter," etc. Luckily, there's not going to be much soldering on this series because the EMGs, pots, etc. are mostly all quick connect. The first 3 modules are already uploaded! Thank you so much for watching and commenting ❤️. That's a pretty huge deal for me, as I'm just getting started on TH-cam.
I thought the same thing when I saw the solder splash. in all fairness he did a great job on that ES-335. It took me twice as long because the pods were wired wrong and all the wire insulation was clear. Then the fret filing and crowning. all said a good player but, I hate the composite fret board.
Pardon me, What brand/gauge strings did you put on that baby ? Not to sound like a putz, mate. When you blew on the pots as your were soldering, that was called a cold solder. Most cold solders then to get weak after some period of time in intricate soldering jobs and cause some problems. You did an absolutely great job ! KUDOS !
I'm not very experienced when it comes to customizing guitar. However, I'd like to try my hand at making this guitar closer to a es-330. Do you believe it's possible to add a trapeze tailpiece to this area and remove the bottom bridge without an excess of rewiring or anything? I'm aware I'll have to drill and fill holes, but anything beyond that I'm unsure.
Absolutely great Idea! I actually considered it on this one. Shouldn't be much to it. I do believe the electronics are grounded to the bridge portion, so no rewiring should be necessary. Since the bridge will remain in place.
@ROCKNROLLMODS sweet thanks! I also just remembered I may change the neck as well to be more accurate. Does that bolt out easy, or is that glued in? Thanks for your videos and help. It's made me way more confident in my approach!
@@Azraels_Envy Very Glad to hear that the video helped! As far as this guitar goes, It is a "Set neck" meaning it is glued in. It could be removed, however that is just about the most difficult job there is. I can tell you that with a little bit of work the neck can be made to play very well. I am just about to start production on another video, where I will be modding a Les Paul style guitar. This video ended up running way too long so I will be releasing the next video in shorter, but more in depth episodes. I will be sure to do an in depth video on the neck. While the les paul style guitars look a lot different than the 335 semi-hollow, the necks are very similar. We'll be filming today, Hopefully we'll have a new video out by the new year! Hope your holidays are going great! Thank you so much for asking questions. It really helps me to figure out what video to make next!
Not worth it bro. I have one of the BCP ES-335s and it's a ton of work. I think you will have a hard time with intonation partially because you are increasing the string length. I also have a 1973 Gibson ES-335 DOT with a trap tail piece and there are big issues even with Gibson trap tail pieces staying in tune. Don't get me wrong I love Gibson Guitars there are none better. Please refer to Gibson ES-335 forum Trap vs stop tail pieces. it will give you great advise.
My question is, how much time and labor in total did you put into upgrading this guitar, and what was the final cost ($129 + what you put into it in time + parts)?
Thank you for commenting! Roughly $250 in purchases. At least a dozen hours in labor. At 50/hr=$600, so $850 essentially. It's definitely not for everyone, lol. But all and all, (in my opinion) it was well worth it. I would definitely put it up against an $850 guitar in an apples to apples comparison. Not sure if they make many p90 equipped 335's but.....
@@ROCKNROLLMODS Gibson has a new ES 335 DOT with a maple body painted wine red and a maple neck with a rosewood fret board. and yes it does come with the legendary P-90s...VERY VERSITILE guitar.
I agree with RocknRollMODS, I paid $189.00 for mine from Amazon, After the upgrades I have about $250.00 in mine. However, I had twice the hours of labor in mine. I was ready to take a cup grinder to it. Joking of course. There's no doubt you'll need luthier skills on this fugazi. But, this guy did a great job on his.
Love the information you have provided on parts. I have to tell you, this was hard to watch. I can't believe you didn't put something under the pots while soldering to protect the finish. I'm sure it all came out ok, but my OCD levels were sky high. We need the canid videos so we get a good feel what the job is going to be like, the good, the bad and the ugly. Thanks for not editing the video to the point that it would have looked like this little operation was a piece of cake. I understand that this is your first semi-hollow body pickup swap out. Rock on my friend. Love what you did to the headstock.
Yeah, if it were a guitar I cared much about, I obviously would have taken precautions. Luckily, the junk poly finish is very durable. But I don't really deal with uppity guitars much, and the ones I own are case queens. I personally am not a fan of perfect anything, yet not really into "relic-ing" guitars either. I just like to mod cheap guitars and mildly damage everything I touch, but still leave it somehow objectively better. There's a few weird fellows out there that get me, but not many. That's why I haven't made any videos in the last couple of years. Anyway, if you're still reading, thanks for watching! 👀 God bless!
Well, you ended w/a minor relicing on the top due to solder splash & scratches from all the maneuvering of components & tools.( Just kidding') Not a big concern. Why did you not replace the plastic nut? Tinning yr. wires was missed, but considering the intricate wiring & detail of the job, I'll give you a B+ overall. Sound & playability is the important thing & likely yr. dad will be pleased.
I only have one question, why buy a cheap guitar just to rebuild it and spend as much money as you would on the real thing without having to do all of that work? Thank you. Buddy.
I only had $230 or so into it after all the parts. It plays and sounds like a million bucks now! I enjoy modding guitars very much! Thanks for watching!
Sorry it wasn't up to your standards. I'm not a professional guitar builder. I just take inexpensive guitars and make them playable. If you hated this video, you'll probably really hate some of the others! But seriously, I would love to work on $10,000 guitars. I would most certainly take the precautions you're missing. But I can't afford guitars like that, and if I could, I probably wouldn't have to do all of this work. If you really love the classic "Best Choice Products" guitars. I apologize as sincerely as possible 🙏
If you missed the first video!
th-cam.com/video/ZpKt_ZP2qjY/w-d-xo.html
The best thing to use on getting the pots and switch through the holes is to use a 1/4th inside diameter and a 5/16th outside diameter clear plastic tubing, it fits over the pot shafts and switch shaft very well, and will fit through pot and switch holes to pull them through without scuffing up the guitar.
Yep, not a bad way!
Wow excellent job what was a cheap Guitar is now a one of a kind Classic 50s style beautiful piece of work and so much fiddling around talk about patience I’m sure that your pop will love it credit where credits due kudos to you
Thanks for the kind words! He definitely likes it!
I got one on the way, but going to try it first before I rip it apart.
I hope it goes well. Mine wasn't really very good out of the box.
Very nice job! 👍👍👍
Thank you very much for the time and kind words!
Always leave a bit of insulation, for ID, if possible
Use two clove hitches, and a dab of CA glue when fishing wires...
Buy a 100 watt soldering iron at the chinese tool store for ground, and other, heavier applications
If ya can't tie a knot, tie alot?
A piece of shrink tubing would be helpful, shrunk over the string and wire, and won't be as likely to catch on the way through...
Love the video!
I've been building parts caster basses, and just picked up 3 Glarry kid's basses to mod, including one fretless conversion.
I source everything from eBay, Amazon, Guitar Fetish, AliExpress, And Harbor freight
Great review bro, B.C.P. guitars originate from the Shandong province of China as do most of the budget knockoffs. I bought the tobacco burst ES-335 just for an exercise guitar that I could leave on a stand 24/7 so you're more inclined to play or just noodle around to keep from getting rusted up. I was lucky with the finish, not a bit of orange peel or fish eye. The head stock was actually a melamine wrap with B.C.P. in very small print. you are absolutely correct about everything in your review. I've seen some reviews of this guitar saying it's playable right out the box. What a load of B.S. They're not even tunable out of the box. The ABS nut was cut so high you couldn't play an open chord. So I replaced it with a bone nut and filed the string slots, got rid of the jankey Tune O matic bridge and replaced it with a nice roller bridge. The fret were so high it would just go out of tune if you chorded it so there was a lot of fret filing to get intonation correct. Also I raised the stop tail piece so there is very little bend in the strings. that brought intonation to a perfect point. The cheap machine heads didn't slip so I just left them. The 3 way toggle was wired wrong so I didn't have volume separation from neck to bridge pickups. all that being said I now have a good playing exercise guitar for a little over $200.00. You did a great job on the head stock. How did you not damage the water slides with the sand paper? Thanks again for the detailed review, you've inspired me to replace the pickups with P90s and replace the pods and switch.. Oh your thoughts on how that composite fretboard feels to you...
Thank you for watching! I will definitely try raising the tailpiece on some of my guitars that I'm having intonation issues with. I wish I had swapped the nut for a bone nut. I had a couple laying around from other projects that never came to fruition. Unfortunately, I couldn't find them when I was working on it. Will probably have him bring it back to swap it out. As far as the decals go, you just have to bury them in several coats of lacquer. TBH I didn't realize it was a synthetic fretboard. I will make it a point to check that out when I swap the nut out. I learned a lot about this project just now from reading your comment! It really means a lot to me that you found inspiration in my video! Makes me want to make more! It's a much better world when we're inspiring each other. Keep on rocking 😎
@@ROCKNROLLMODS Thanks for your reply bro. I'm absolutely sure you know to cut around the nut before tapping it off and tap it toward the head stock. I used Gibson lemon oil on the composite fret board to hydrate it. But, it still has that Formica feel to me. I've just gotten spoiled from playing on rose wood. It's really a shame what Obama did with the importation ban on rosewood. Yet the Hollywood elite will bull dose down a whole red wood forest so they can build their 10,000 square foot mini vacation homes in Aspen. Thanks for listening to my rant. I'll be sure to subscribe to your cast.
Heya Gino did you finish yr 335😁👍
@@misterghee1 yea buddy, I did. I've actually had the guitar for almost two years. After a few modifications the intonation is finally perfect. The finish on the guitar was surprisingly good, even the F-Holes are bound. No orange peel or fish eye not even bleed over on the binding. However a ton of fret filing, replaced the abs nut with a bone nut there was a lot of bridge rattle and you could not get the intonation right so I replaced it with a Strew Mac roller bridge. I left the janky humbuckers and pods. The composite fret board still feels like Formica to me. I don't recommend this guitar or any other knock off unless you have Luthier skills. Definitely not for a beginner. All said I've got $200.00 in it total. And I don't care if my dog or company knocks it off the stand. My 1973 Gibson ES-335 dot doesn't come out of the case unless I'm home alone. Thanks for question.
For the price, it seems like a pretty good deal.
Definitely! I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better deal for a 335 type guitar. Just have to be willing to put a little time into it. Thanks a ton for watching.
Turned out pretty slick!!!! Love the p90 how did it sound prior to the build? I bought the grote version came all dialed in humbuckers unpotted sounds real nice clean super clean and a little reverb but it turns to mud quick, I’m waiting for all my replacement parts!!!!! Rock n roll!!!!
Thanks so much for watching! I know that this video ran long! The original pickups were pretty decent. They sound good at low levels. I didn't actually try them in a "band setting" with amps cranked, but in my experience, these less expensive pickups squeal pretty bad when cranked. I am building this guitar for my father, who will never use them at high volumes, And they would have been fine, but these P90's are a little more detailed than the stock humbuckers would be for clean tones.
I use a straw or a piece of hose,when replacing controls.Its easier than trying to the a string to them.
Rocky, you had me cringing watching soldering and splatter of flux and solder on the top after you spent time buffing it up with McGuires. If you're going to solder on the top of the guitar like that you should put some protection there at least like a rag of some kind to work on to prevent that solder splatter and scratching. The other thing you can do is to tape up the edge of your F holes with masking tape also to prevent the scratching trying to get those parts through there. As far as the whole video goes it's a bit long. I noticed you sped up your voice to make it go faster but here's a trick. Break long work like this down into 15 to 20 minutes segments and you'll get more people to watch more of the segment without clicking through or just feeding it up and missing a lot of the work. Being the nerd that I am and I show a lot of this on my channel as well I learned to make my videos shorter. This increases the click Through Time that the video gets so people watch more minutes of it. Also breaking it down into more segments gives you more content on the channel and makes them want to come back to see what happens in the next segment. The headstock looks way better with your mods to it.
I appreciate it. This is a make-shift work shop that I am filming in, so things are a bit improvised. And i am trying to find good ways to film so that the process is visible. If you check out the next series on "modding the iyv les paul copy," which is a super in-depth video on making an inexpensive guitar, an absolute shredding machine. Including installation of Zakk Wylde EMG 81/85 set, fret leveling, crowning, rolling the fretboard, etc. Even doing a complete refinish. This series will be broken up into several parts so that there are no videos longer than 20 minutes, and they will all be packed with information. My apologies for the cringe 😬. Generally, I will tell the good people of TH-cam-land, sort of a disclaimer of sorts, things like "shield it from spatter," etc. Luckily, there's not going to be much soldering on this series because the EMGs, pots, etc. are mostly all quick connect. The first 3 modules are already uploaded! Thank you so much for watching and commenting ❤️. That's a pretty huge deal for me, as I'm just getting started on TH-cam.
I thought the same thing when I saw the solder splash. in all fairness he did a great job on that ES-335. It took me twice as long because the pods were wired wrong and all the wire insulation was clear. Then the fret filing and crowning. all said a good player but, I hate the composite fret board.
Thanks for nice video!
You're quite welcome! Glad you enjoyed!
Good job!
Thanks!
I wonder if you could use tie-wire to route the pots?
Pardon me, What brand/gauge strings did you put on that baby ? Not to sound like a putz, mate. When you blew on the pots as your were soldering, that was called a cold solder. Most cold solders then to get weak after some period of time in intricate soldering jobs and cause some problems. You did an absolutely great job ! KUDOS !
No cold solder here.
I wonder if those pots made any scratches on the finish.
I'm not very experienced when it comes to customizing guitar. However, I'd like to try my hand at making this guitar closer to a es-330. Do you believe it's possible to add a trapeze tailpiece to this area and remove the bottom bridge without an excess of rewiring or anything? I'm aware I'll have to drill and fill holes, but anything beyond that I'm unsure.
Absolutely great Idea! I actually considered it on this one. Shouldn't be much to it. I do believe the electronics are grounded to the bridge portion, so no rewiring should be necessary. Since the bridge will remain in place.
@ROCKNROLLMODS sweet thanks! I also just remembered I may change the neck as well to be more accurate. Does that bolt out easy, or is that glued in? Thanks for your videos and help. It's made me way more confident in my approach!
@@Azraels_Envy Very Glad to hear that the video helped! As far as this guitar goes, It is a "Set neck" meaning it is glued in. It could be removed, however that is just about the most difficult job there is. I can tell you that with a little bit of work the neck can be made to play very well. I am just about to start production on another video, where I will be modding a Les Paul style guitar. This video ended up running way too long so I will be releasing the next video in shorter, but more in depth episodes. I will be sure to do an in depth video on the neck. While the les paul style guitars look a lot different than the 335 semi-hollow, the necks are very similar. We'll be filming today, Hopefully we'll have a new video out by the new year! Hope your holidays are going great! Thank you so much for asking questions. It really helps me to figure out what video to make next!
@@ROCKNROLLMODS Awsome I look forward to checking it out!
Not worth it bro. I have one of the BCP ES-335s and it's a ton of work. I think you will have a hard time with intonation partially because you are increasing the string length. I also have a 1973 Gibson ES-335 DOT with a trap tail piece and there are big issues even with Gibson trap tail pieces staying in tune. Don't get me wrong I love Gibson Guitars there are none better. Please refer to Gibson ES-335 forum Trap vs stop tail pieces. it will give you great advise.
My question is, how much time and labor in total did you put into upgrading this guitar, and what was the final cost ($129 + what you put into it in time + parts)?
Thank you for commenting! Roughly $250 in purchases. At least a dozen hours in labor. At 50/hr=$600, so $850 essentially. It's definitely not for everyone, lol. But all and all, (in my opinion) it was well worth it. I would definitely put it up against an $850 guitar in an apples to apples comparison. Not sure if they make many p90 equipped 335's but.....
@@ROCKNROLLMODS Gibson has a new ES 335 DOT with a maple body painted wine red and a maple neck with a rosewood fret board. and yes it does come with the legendary P-90s...VERY VERSITILE guitar.
I agree with RocknRollMODS, I paid $189.00 for mine from Amazon, After the upgrades I have about $250.00 in mine. However, I had twice the hours of labor in mine. I was ready to take a cup grinder to it. Joking of course. There's no doubt you'll need luthier skills on this fugazi. But, this guy did a great job on his.
Very good job ! 👍
Thank you ❤️
were you using the screwdriver as a heat sink?
Not sure what you're referring to, but not purposely?
Love the information you have provided on parts. I have to tell you, this was hard to watch. I can't believe you didn't put something under the pots while soldering to protect the finish. I'm sure it all came out ok, but my OCD levels were sky high. We need the canid videos so we get a good feel what the job is going to be like, the good, the bad and the ugly. Thanks for not editing the video to the point that it would have looked like this little operation was a piece of cake. I understand that this is your first semi-hollow body pickup swap out. Rock on my friend. Love what you did to the headstock.
Yeah, if it were a guitar I cared much about, I obviously would have taken precautions. Luckily, the junk poly finish is very durable. But I don't really deal with uppity guitars much, and the ones I own are case queens. I personally am not a fan of perfect anything, yet not really into "relic-ing" guitars either. I just like to mod cheap guitars and mildly damage everything I touch, but still leave it somehow objectively better. There's a few weird fellows out there that get me, but not many. That's why I haven't made any videos in the last couple of years. Anyway, if you're still reading, thanks for watching! 👀 God bless!
What was the final cost.
Sorry I missed this message. I believe final cost including the guitar was around 240 USD
Well, you ended w/a minor relicing on the top due to solder splash & scratches from all the maneuvering of components & tools.( Just kidding') Not a big concern. Why did you not replace the plastic nut? Tinning yr. wires was missed, but considering the intricate wiring & detail of the job, I'll give you a B+ overall. Sound & playability is the important thing & likely yr. dad will be pleased.
& the final verdict is.....success!
I only have one question, why buy a cheap guitar just to rebuild it and spend as much money as you would on the real thing without having to do all of that work? Thank you. Buddy.
I only had $230 or so into it after all the parts. It plays and sounds like a million bucks now! I enjoy modding guitars very much! Thanks for watching!
You're still using your hands to buff. No machine (not the drill). Soon, A.I. They replace you.
You spent the time and money to polish the finish,than bugger it up replacing components. I can't watch anymore.
Sorry it wasn't up to your standards. I'm not a professional guitar builder. I just take inexpensive guitars and make them playable. If you hated this video, you'll probably really hate some of the others! But seriously, I would love to work on $10,000 guitars. I would most certainly take the precautions you're missing. But I can't afford guitars like that, and if I could, I probably wouldn't have to do all of this work. If you really love the classic "Best Choice Products" guitars. I apologize as sincerely as possible 🙏
It's your guitar dude, really?
Again, I'm not sure what you're referring to.