Mate, you're a bloody legend! This is exactly what was wrong with my Samsung Waterwall here in New Zealand. I've had to repair this dishwasher half a dozen times and I wouldn't touch Samsung again with a ten-foot-pole, but I also don't want to buy another dishwasher. That motor in NZ was priced at $160! and all your fix cost me was a bit of time. One thing I'd recommend to people is that they mark the magnetic coils before they pull them out of the case. I put one back in upside down the first time around and the motor made a hell of a noise when I'd reassembled everything. Started again, turned the coil over, reassembled, and the dishwasher is back to being it's quite old self. Cheers Matt!
Great Video! Exactly what was wrong on my dishwasher. It looks like that plastic shrinks over time and breaks. One note about the motor disassembly: You actually don't need to pull out the magnetic coils. Pull out that metal retainer with a tiny screwdriver instead of turning the motor over and dumping everything out. That way you run less chance of putting the coils in backwards when reassembling.
I had the same exact problem. Same broken piece. You saved me hundreds of dollars and days/weeks of pain. I had this removed, epoxied, and back together in a few hours. Thank you!!!!
Matt, you're a gentleman and a scholar...just found this and it worked like a charm! Thank you! The only thing we (my dad and I) did differently was we uninstalled the dishwasher, put down a bunch of towels and flipped it completely over on it's top, to make it easier to work on the bottom. We also just pulled only the motor itself out and didn't need to uninstall anything else really, except the 3 black rubber hoses and some of the cover plates, to better get at the motor. The motor shaft is keyed (has a flat spot) that you'll just need to line up when it goes back in, by pushing the waterwall back and forth to get the flat spots lined up (shaft on motor, slot in waterwall track assembly), all from underneath, on the outside of the dishwasher. Anyway, like everyone else has said; thank you so much!!! A free tutorial for a free repair.
Adding my name to the collection of happy campers who now have a working waterwall thanks to this video. My story, in case someone stumbles on this thread and needs more details. I moved into a house 2 years ago that has a dw80j7550us/aa (I believe this was the initial version). s/w version 7136 (which is odd, since 7134 is supposed to be initial). The dw never washed well, and one day I noticed a magnet in the bottom. I put my phone in a waterproof pouch and recorded what was going on inside. Found the waterwall never moved. Found all the posts about magnets, and realized the magnet I found was supposed to be attached to the vane. I positioned it there, and the water wall started working. It would move when starting the dw, but made a loud grinding sound when the waterwall cycle was running. I observed the waterwall cycle would run for one minute out of a 60 minute express wash cycle, which was not good. I tried blocking the waterwall motion with my hand and realized it was really easy to prevent it from moving. So, the waterwall will move when there is no spray hitting it (which happens at the start of the cycle, when the dw is testing it), but when spray is hitting it, it gets stuck, and the dw realizes it is not functional. So that's why I got only one minute of waterwall use out of the 60 minute wash cycle. I got a used motor on ebay, and tested it when it arrived. It too was easy to stop the motor when running (just held the shaft with my fingers while it was running -- I connected AC to the white plug connections). So, it was not going to be any better than the motor in my dw. I followed this video, but just used gorilla super glue (cyanoacrylate) to glue the white plastic disk to the white plastic drum) (instead of epoxy). Worked great! The motor could no longer be stopped with my fingers holding the shaft when running. I put the new motor in my dw and life is now grand. I now get 3 minutes of waterwall, alternating with 3 minutes of top wash. (I could probably have made the same repair to my original motor, rather than getting a new used one, but having an extra made things easier). Thanks so much!
Ok Matt, I looked through all the comments and couldn't see where I posted anything before. I thought I got on here and said thanks before but I guess not. When I got my dishwasher there was no sticker on it saying what the model number was and I found out that they take the stickers off when the repairmen basically condemn the machines. I looked up your video and that's exactly what my problem was. The lady I bought it from wanted almost new price for it. (not really new price but expensive for not knowing what I was getting in to.) I talked her down some to a price we were both happy with and now I'm really happy that a 6 dollar tube of epoxy and a little bit of my time got it fixed. Thank you Thank you Thank you!!! I picked up another used one for my son and it's been awhile since I got around to looking at it but I am today and I hope its this simple.
This was a great video. Much appreciated! If anyone made the mistake of flipping the magnet (like me), the black and white wires on the left of the wire harness connector need to be swapped and the red and black wires on the right side of the connector need to be swapped. If you have never taken a connectorized wire out of a harness you just need a really small flat head screwdriver and you need to work it between the metal wire lug and the internal plastic hook. It can take a while and some wiggling but you shouldn't need to force anything out... It'll work itself out eventually. If you get too forceful the plastic hook may snap and your wire won't snap back in any longer.
Great Video! Just save my dishwasher, Samsung DW80M9550US. I also add some grease to it. After the whole things were done, the dishwasher still not working. I could not figure it out why until I poured a gallon of water into it. It suddenly works as before. Thank you so much; you are a genius!
This was very helpful. I had a motor exactly like this and after this video I pulled it apart, it was broken in exactly the same manner as demonstrated in this video. I tried fixing it but had a hard time getting the plastic rotor hub epoxied where I was comfortable with the result so I end up replacing the motor. However this video gives you a good chance of fixing your dishwasher for free. I was also impressed with just how flimsy and fragile this plastic part was. Samsung should use better parts.
Lots of thankful comments on here but I wanted to add mine to the many thanks you have already received. This is exactly what was wrong with my 3 yr old machine, I put a camera inside to watch and it did not move at all. Model DW80M9960US, little newer than the one in your video, but same ridiculous motor. No error code on mine, only problem I noticed was that the bottom dishes were still dirty! Thanks to you and your excellent video, not any more. Followed your instructions and fixed it, so a big THANK YOU Matt ! A few $ worth of epoxy instead of $100+ for a new motor that would most likely fail in the same way in a couple years. It is sad that Samsung has decided that the way to fix this was to ignore the error code instead of installing a better motor. Bad design, bad engineering changes, bad customer service, shame on Samsung for this. After all these years and still the same crappy little motor failing in the same way.
It is a shame that the little motor is such a piece of junk. I do believe that Samsung chooses to keep it though because it lasts long enough. If they made a dishwasher to last for ever people wouldn’t need to buy a new one! I find most things are this way, unfortunately our economy is still geared to consuming disposable equipment, I hope one day things will swing toward higher quality.
Thank you for putting this video out. I stumbled onto it trying to find a way to diagnose the motor, mine never threw any codes, just wouldn't clean the bottom rack and arm would never return "home". Video made it easy to see what was wrong, and I actually trust the epoxy to last longer than a new motor would. Thank you again!
Great tutorial! Thank you very much for doing that. I just fixed mine using your instructions. And l have no technical knowledge or experience, really. I felt totally empowered to do and learn new things. Great stuff!
Matt, thank you! Your video saved me money and time, plus it made me look good in front of my wife. Our problem was exactly the same as yours. Your fix of using epoxy will guarantee that this problem will never happen again. Thanks Again!
Yet another fix thanks to this video. We picked our unit up from a curb a while back since I do my own appliance work, and I was expecting far worse until I found your video. Same exact break for me though I went about it a little bit differently. If you have fine enough vise grips, you can open those tabs enough for disassembly. All it takes to close them back down is a flat head screwdriver and a hammer. As said in other comments, you can also do the whole thing just by pulling that topmost stator plate and the rotor can be extracted from there. I also opted for a ca glue instead of epoxy given the surfaces I was dealing with. And a note from hindsight: definitely add proper grease to the gear train, it'll need it.
Thanks for making this video... I replaced the motor last year and now the new one is dead. My next step is to follow your video and hopefully that fixes it for good.
Holy smack, it actually worked! You’re kind of a genius for figuring this out, and for sharing it with all of us SamSuckers. So glad to be able add some more years to our dishwasher. I had to replace a convection fan motor in our Samsung oven, and the idler arm pulley in a friend’s Samsung dryer. We’re going with Whirlpool brands for our next appliances. Ps. I put my GoPro in the dishwasher, and watched how the WaterWall arm battled (and lost) to the water jets. That’s when I knew for sure that it was the same motor-slip issue you were having. Fascinating!
1 addition: use sealant (kit or whatever) after reassembly to seal the lid of the motor. In case you get a water leak, it will at least not run into the motor. Kudos Matt! Thanks a lot for your video. my story ( hope it will help someone ): my waterwall dishwasher ( DW60H9970 EU/GER Model) had a humming noise. At first I suspected the drying fan (because it sounded like something hitting fan blades) but after running the dishwasher program it almost immediately started to humm which rules out the drying fan... So disconnected the pump motor connection, ran another program, close the lid, and humm still there... Last motor left is the waterwall actuator (thanks Murphey...) and indeed when running a program with this motor disconnected the humm was gone. Be aware there are 2 connectors; 1 for the motor (4p) and 1 for the magnetic switch (3p). In my particular case the rubber seal around the motor leaked (after 4 years) causing water and diswash salt to corrode the motor, scraping the core against the coils. I was able to disassemble according to your video and refurbished the motor + Gearbox )use plenty grease:-) ). Unfortunately the bottom coil was coroded into the housing pretty bad so my wires broke from the motor coil windings upon disassembly. Take good care of which color is located on what side of the coil! After full disassembly I was able to scrape off some lacr from the copper leads and resolder the wires. Carefully cleaned the seal surfaces of the part, rubber seal and inside the dishwasher, they all showed quite some salt deposition. Take care not to use any sharp objects, perpendicular scratches will cause leaks! I used a dishwash sponge and only clean / scrub the direction of the seal. Applied some vaseline on the seal and closed her up again. runs like a charm again. be aware to power down before doing any actions!
You sir, are a hero for making this video. Had this exact problem and the fix went smoothly. Never would have figured this out on my own. The world needs more people like you. Thank you.
Hi Matt, I fixed mine, it had the exact issue you described and your fix solved it, I don't know how long it will last for but I really appreciate this video.
Thank you for making this video, it was EXACTLY what I needed to see to fix the very same problem with my Samsung Waterwall dishwasher. My unit is 4 years old and the warranty is expired, so spending $120+ on a new motor seemed excessive, but this fix cost me $5 in epoxy and a few hours of my time. And now it works like new! I like to consider myself an avid TH-cam DIYer, but without this video, I wouldn’t have been able to figure out that tiny crappy piece of plastic in the motor was the culprit. I typically don’t comment on videos, but when one helps me as much as this one did, I couldn’t not say so. Thanks again!
Thanks a lot Matt, you have also saved us a fortune on only a 3 year old dishwasher. It would have cost us a spare kidney to repair this in New Zealand with a service call. I love the spot welds to fix it shut! One way trip.
Very helpful video. Fixed my 7E error on my DW80H9930US Samsung dishwasher. Thank you. Saved significant money. Really only the cost of 5min epoxy and time.
Thanks for the instructions Matt.. Yeah exactly same thing happened to our Samsung .. They are so low quality. Its like the 4th thing I have at to repair on it in the last 3 years.
Great video, fixed my problem! For the recent comments, I couldn't find a disassembly video but I had no issues removing the motor. The real pain was opening the motor, good luck with that.
I pried it open at the pinch points with a small screwdriver. I welded it back together bc it would not close by pinching the tabs back. Sorry, this wasn't helpful but rest assured it does fix the problem.
Matt, thank you for an informative, detailed video. I wish the quality was a bit better, but I was still able to fix my sister's machine for the cost of epoxy and my time. Well worth it!!!
I got exactly the same problem with my motor. Your video enabled me to perform the motor repair otherwise, I would have just ordered a 150$ replacement motor. thanks a lot to have takes times to do your video!!
Matt your video was really helpful!!! I had problems with the water wall arm... first was moving without stopping and afterwards stopped working at all... With your video I got the courage to fix the motor... (great video!!). Now the arm moves a bit... makes a lot of noices but I think is not working properly... in any case I want to congratulate you on this wonderful help you shared with all!!
Excellent video, many thanks. By showing how it goes back in at the end, you’ve also shown how to take it out. I epoxied the magnet in place and it works perfectly... no more grinding noises and 7E. Greetings from New Zealand
Awesome info, thank you. You make this world a better place. My unit does not clean the bottom rack. I thought this may be the problem, but the arm seems to move ok. The magnet story? Mine did not have a magnet installed. Possibly an assembly issue. I put one in, still no joy. I think this unit is basically junk, and it was not cheap, so I feel bad chucking it.
Matt your video was really helpful. My dishwasher is a couple years older than yours and has a slightly different waterwall spray arm assembly but looks like the exact same motor. The 7E errors started happening recently so I put a GoPro inside to see what was happening and found that the arm was actually moving back and forth but wasn't able to return all the way to "base" so after a couple of tries, the 7E would come up. Since the arm was moving, I didn't think the motor was broken at first but guessed that it was going bad maybe and the water pressure was too great for the arm to come all the way back to base... so I tried reducing the water flow out of the jets and that did help a little bit but eventually still got the 7E. I realize now how silly this design is to have a crappy plastic arm just moving back and forth just to deflect water upwards. Anyway, I pulled the motor out and found that the same problem you had so I did the epoxy trick and put it all back together but think I may have reversed something inside the motor because now the arm moves forward from base and doesn't stop when it reaches the front door. Instead I can hear clicking which I assume is the drive belt skipping or something similar. Pretty sure I put all the motor parts back together but I didn't pay attention to the magnet and I'm wondering if I had put it in upside down might cause this problem? I'm going to try switching the plug pins like you suggested to see if that fixes it.
Actually it was my bad. Wasn’t a problem with the motor going in reverse. It was because I had to patch a break in the belt and put that belt assembly that carries the waterwall back in wrong. It’s working good now fortunately 🙂
Hi Matt, Thanks so much for posting this video and the clear explanation of the root issue. I had a similar model and the same problem and this really helped. I was really happy to be able to avoid an out-of-warrrenty service call but even more satisfied that this issue shouldn't occur again. I also replaced the magnet on the waterwall arm for good measure.
Thanks! This was the issue with mine....did similar repair but with less 5 min expoxy.....The purpose is to act like a "shear pin" Not sure how long it will last but just be mindful that anything hanging below or poking through the bottom rack may jam the water wall, causing the coupler to fail. Test running it right now
Just bought one of these used for $50 displaying this same error. Gonna give it a nice cleaning and give this a go. I'll report back, I hope its successful. Thanks for the video!
Hey guys, this is how I got the front of the water wall out of the washer. By this time you have disconnected the water and electric, and have the machine out in the room. Follow Matt's instructions to remove the rear portion of the water wall. Lay the machine on its back with the door facing up. There is an "L" shaped panel at the bottom of the machine held in place by 4 screws, remove them and the panel. It might have resistance as some of the insulation has adhered to the spray sound dampening material. Gently wiggle and pry the panel out. This will reveal a rubber plug with a center tethered by a loop. Pry the center out. What this piece does is solidify the plug so that the water wall (on the inside of the machine) will not come out. Once this little center plug is out, turn the machine upright and open the door. If you haven't removed the baskets and the top drawer, do so now. In the top basket, there is a small plastic clip retaining the basket. Using two small tools, gently press down on the top of the clip, while from the inside of the basket push the clip out. The top basket can now be slipped back and out of the ball bearing rails that allow it to slide in and out. Next you will want to remove the water pipe that runs up the back and to the roof of the washer. this is held in place by clips welded to the washer pry them open enough to allow the pipe to pop free. This pipe is fitted with an O ring at the base of the water wall assembly. If you can twist it and pull up it may separate. If not pull the pipe forward to where you can get the rear WW (water wall) assembly up and out of its 4 holes, and then pull the entire unit forward to snap the front of the WW off of the rubber mount freeing the entire assembly. Hope this helps! Hats off to Matt for the video. This was exactly what was wrong with my dishwasher!
Thanks for taking the time to post up this video. I can confirm it worked on my Samsung Waterwall Model Number DW60H9950FW which we have had for around 4 or so years. This is the first problem it's given us with near daily use from a family of 5. I noticed when I first looked inside the dishwasher after the 7E error came up, and applied light pressure to the reflector bar, that I could move it back and forth manually quite easily. After following your fix, I can't move the reflector arm back and forth manually and it is working correctly again. Thanks again, saved us a few hundred bucks for a repair guy, happy wife, happy life :)
This is amazing! I knew nothing of dishwashers. But following this video I was able to take it apart, remove the motor, disassemble the motor, fix it and put it all back together. And it worked! Thank you so, so much! P.S. Samsung is awful. Never again.
another problem I have found which triggers the same code is when the belt has worn some of the cogs off and it slips which will not allow the MOTION ASSEMBLY to move back and forth. You cant buy the belt separate. Great video. I wish they would start to build dishwashers with some real motors again. These motors they use now days are like what we used to have in our toy race cars and trains but with more plastic gears.
Good point, that would cause the same problem. I feel you on the quality of stuff these days. Back in the day %80 of what we paid went to the making of the product, now %70 goes to the marketing department. Sad how cheaply stuff is made.
Thanks from me also.....worked like a charm I knew it had to be the motor but was stuck because it was under warranty. . of course parts not labor....samsung needed a tech to diagnose ...it's 120 just for that guy to show up....the repair company will take that off the fee to change the motor but can't tell me how much...So I washed dishes by hand for a cuple months until I found your fix... Looks like you got 1 dislike must be the repair company I called ..lol Thanks agian
Well done mate. I actually just replaced the motor and it I was $300 Canadian. The dishwasher it self was 8 or 9.hundred. It’s 5 years old. If I had to pay a repair man it would have been $500 +. Samsung should be Ashamed to charged this much for a $20 part. I have 5 Samsung appliances in my kitchen that I spent a ton of cash on. Luckily I bought extended warranty on the fridge because I’ve used it twice. Microwave is doing goofing things now. Beeping in the middle of the night. Sensor cook doesn’t work. Stove is ok right now but I did have get the board replaced in warranty because of a bad display. So if I were to do a multi thousand dollar purchase. I would stay away from Samsung. Thankfully my phone is not Samsung. I wish apple made appliances.
Thanks again didn’t know that it was in the comments how to remove the water wall just want to add few things before u remove the thing arm front and back if u feel it’s not smooth that’s because the moter is broken. To remove the moter take the back plastic off, unclip left and middle hose and a long screwdriver from the bottom will take the two screws of then pull out the moter (I hope this will help someone) thanks again for the great video.😀
Thank you so much for making this video! For future references, my dishwasher model# is DW80M9550US. The problem symptoms: the dishwasher would make 3 beeps and the lights on the handle would flash 3 times within the first 30sec-50sec of the cycle. And when I open the door, the time left display would keep flashing, but it doesn't show any error code. However, after reading the service manual, I discovered that I have to enter the service mode to pull the codes,and found out the error code is 7C I followed the diagnosis procedure in the service manual, the vane motor ohmed out just fine, the vane sensor voltage is correct, however was not able to figure out how to activate the vane motor. Then I found this video, took the motor apart, found the same plastic piece broke off.
Hi Richard, how did you get into the "service mode" to pull the codes? I can't find instructions on how to do that and I have the same model as you do. Thanks in advance
@@rubiconphoto I can't remember exactly how I did it, but here is the link to the service manual I used. It has all the info you need to make the repair. www.manualslib.com/manual/1597233/Samsung-Dw80m9-Series.html#product-DW80M9550US/AA
FYI - you can remove the motor without removing the water-wall assembly by accessing the motor through the rear panel, and the right-side panel (looking at the front of the dishwasher). You remove the hose clamp to push the hose out of the way, and then you have access via a short Philips #2 screwdriver to the two screws that hold the motor on. Place a paper towel down so that if you drop the screws they don't fall into the crevasses in the plastic bottom, as they are hard to fish out - especially as they are stainless = non-magnetic. And sadly, the cost of the motor is still roughly the same as the complete waterwall arm assembly :(
Hi, there are 2 holes under the dishwasher , they are in line with the motor screws and it is very easy to take off the motor without unmount nothing inside the dishwasher, Chad
Good job Samsung! I’m taking mine back to lowes on Saturday and get a refund. Then I’m buying another Bosch. My last one worked for 13 years. Yours lasted 9 days🤣
This is a 120vac motor with forward and reverse windings and a permanent magnet rotor. The part that you are gluing together is a clutch intended to prevent the magnet from becoming demagnetized if the water wall is jammed and the rotor cannot spin. That is why there are indentations on the magnet and bumps on the plastic bits top and bottom. This fix will work but just be aware that if the water wall is unable to move, either the motor will overwhelm the gear train somewhere along the line from the internal gears to the toothed belt and something will break or the motor will be jammed and the AC will demagnetize the rotor ending its life. There may be a software error generated that will stop this from happening but if Samsung designed it with a clutched motor then why would they have a software solution? My DW80H series did not throw any error code at any time. That said unless Samsung has changed the design of the motor, you will be changing it again in the future when the same underdesigned 1 cent part picked by the accountant (not an engineer) fails. Lawyers, accountants and "businessmen" are the only thing between you and a well engineered product. Jus sayin'.
Very much correct regarding the clutch. It would appear to me that it just gets weak over time, to the point where it just slips. Gluing it just buys us some time. Obviously, the clutch wasn't designed to be as rugged as what it's subjected to.
Thank you so much for this video, my Samsung dishwasher broke exactly the same spot. Almost seems intentionally made to break with that part being made from plastic. Anyways thank you for this video!!
Hi Matt, When I put it back together, and tested, it moved fine. But when I run it through a cycle, water only seems to come out one side of the jets and the flapper doesn't seems to be moving the bottom tray of dishes were still dirty. When testing to see if it moves again, it did, the cycle and one side of the jets don't seem to work, same as the first attempt.
Just fixed this issue today. I had the dreaded 7E code. Washer would run for about 15 minutes and then stop. I replaced the motor assembly (about $115 from www.samsungparts.com/Default.aspx) and placed a rare earth magnet underneath the water wall carriage (the thing that translates the deflector back and forth). The magnetic force is strong enough to keep it in place during a wash cycle. I just completed a successful cycle. Tip 1) To remove the lock ring, use a soft blow hammer and flat head screw driver. Lightly tap the screwdriver against one of the ridges on the lockring and it will effortlessly rotate. From a bird's eye view, rotate it clockwise to loosen and counter clockwise to tighten. Tip 2) The tab to remove the middle tray is very easy to uninstall. Take a butter knife, press down lightly on the upper lip of the tab and push it outwards. Installing it is just as easy. Only light pressure is needed in both scenarios. I took 3 hours to do this job. Would have been 2 hours if I figured out how to remove the lock ring with the hammer/flathead sooner. Lastly, I noticed that my waterwall deflector is significantly harder to manually move back and forth with the new motor installed. With the old one, I could move it back and forth pretty easily. Just proof that the motor was is culprit. Thank you Matt Rampone for putting this video together.
Great video! Thank you! Good God though, I hate my Samsung WaterWall dishwasher. What a POS. Finally giving up today though after the last straw. Gonna take advantage of President's Day sales. NO SAMSUNGS EVER AGAIN!!! Sheesh they suck. Super impressed you figured out your issues though! Good work.
Thank you Matt! We have a DW80 model (2015) and it was having waterwall issue...finally the 7E error that can not be resolved (machine will run for 10-15 minutes then stop with the waterwall piece stops near the door). One note is the cover of the motor is not easy to remove..I ended up using a Dremel like tool to cut the metal flops (while trying to pry it open I cut my finger..ouch)...then used epoxy glue to keep the lid closed. Great instructions...dishwasher is now working again..hopefully for the next 3 or 4 years. During the repair/research I found out Sears.com is selling this part at discount .. www.sears.com/samsung-dd97-00216a-dishwasher-waterwall-spray-arm/p-A035049322 check it out!!
This happened to me as well came to the same conclusion as you these are a designed failure point!. mine broke in exactly the same way as this when I took it apart.
@@mattrampone8457 glad to say that after sticking to the plan exactly and recovering from the hangover, my dishwasher is working again. We were supposed to drink all the beer first right?
I dont have an error code but the motor doesn't move through the wash cycle. It will seat home, start, and not move for about 10 minutes. It goes all the way to end and also stops and doesnt return for the duration of the cycle. Such a pain. Maintenance guy said I need a new rail but the rail seems fine. He actually didnt even out it back together. Heard it may be the magnet in the waterwall. Who knows...
It is possible that it needs a new rail, im not certain where the magnet is located on your model. Im assuming that there may be slightly different models, and that some may have slight hardware differences, if it looks like it is physically failing but the controller isnt seeing a problem to display a code, then you may need to determine why that is. I would take a close look. It is possible that the magnet (wich is probabbly molded inside some plastic) may be inside the track, and the trolly part be be broken away from it? Seems strange that there is no error indication from the dishwasher. Is it a different model that maybe just beeps a fault or blinks a light? Im not certain. Can you poke something into the door clip and try cycling on the power, then try to physically hold the water wall? You may be able to get a better feel if its a broken part in the track of if it feels like the motor is slipping. Give it a try.
Very interesting. I've got a dw80r9950. Not getting a code and the lower basket does seem to be getting clean, but I've found the water reflector laying loose several times. How tight is it supposed to snap onto the shuttle? Also, how did you get the bar to move with the door open to check movement? I see a screwdriver stuck in what I assume is an interlock switch. Hope you are still monitoring comments on this!
In the door there is a button behind the latch that is pressed when the door is closed. The water wall does seem a bit floppy, but remains clipped to a he shuttle. I’m not certain for sure how it works, but when the machine washes, it does the top and bottom independently. Maybe a valve or something. I would look at that
I went through all the steps, and I think I accidentally put in that coils upside down back into the motor. It feels much better when I turn the rod and you can feel the gears moving but I still get the error code now and also the additional problem is it won't fill up with water now.
Inside of the machine at the back there are two gray square plastic covers on the water wall track. Pop out the covers with a small flathead screwdriver, then remove two #2 Phillips head screws. The water wall track slides forward (toward the door) and can be removed. The tube for the top drawer wash is removed by lightly prying back metal clips on the top and back of the inside of the washer. From there, pull out the washer after removing the screws at the top of the door securing the machine to the kitchen counter. The electrical connections are under the door on the right in a small junction box. If you go to the end of this video, it shows the installation of the motor and water connections. Reverse of that is removal of those connections. The molex connectors for the sensor and motor are made in a way that cannot be mixed up or reversed, so don't worry about that. Keep in mind the assembly line people throw these together with little training or expertise, so it has to be "dummy proof" (no offense to anyone implied).
The end of his video shows how everything was put back together... just a few lock rings it looks like. There are two screws to take off the water wall moving assembly itself, covered by two plastic plugs. Slide it forward, and remove the track
Mate, you're a bloody legend! This is exactly what was wrong with my Samsung Waterwall here in New Zealand. I've had to repair this dishwasher half a dozen times and I wouldn't touch Samsung again with a ten-foot-pole, but I also don't want to buy another dishwasher. That motor in NZ was priced at $160! and all your fix cost me was a bit of time. One thing I'd recommend to people is that they mark the magnetic coils before they pull them out of the case. I put one back in upside down the first time around and the motor made a hell of a noise when I'd reassembled everything. Started again, turned the coil over, reassembled, and the dishwasher is back to being it's quite old self. Cheers Matt!
Don't remove the coils. Generally the center magnet can be pulled out with small needle nose pliers or tweezers.
@@scarnbeardoI left the coil in as well🙌🏽
Great Video!
Exactly what was wrong on my dishwasher.
It looks like that plastic shrinks over time and breaks.
One note about the motor disassembly:
You actually don't need to pull out the magnetic coils. Pull out that metal retainer with a tiny screwdriver instead of turning the motor over and dumping everything out. That way you run less chance of putting the coils in backwards when reassembling.
The magnet core cannot go wrong because notches at the bottom of the core are supposed to mesh the plastic bushing.
I had the same exact problem. Same broken piece. You saved me hundreds of dollars and days/weeks of pain. I had this removed, epoxied, and back together in a few hours. Thank you!!!!
Just did this repair about half an hour ago. The water wall is working again and our dishwasher is so much quieter. Thank you!
Matt, you're a gentleman and a scholar...just found this and it worked like a charm! Thank you!
The only thing we (my dad and I) did differently was we uninstalled the dishwasher, put down a bunch of towels and flipped it completely over on it's top, to make it easier to work on the bottom. We also just pulled only the motor itself out and didn't need to uninstall anything else really, except the 3 black rubber hoses and some of the cover plates, to better get at the motor. The motor shaft is keyed (has a flat spot) that you'll just need to line up when it goes back in, by pushing the waterwall back and forth to get the flat spots lined up (shaft on motor, slot in waterwall track assembly), all from underneath, on the outside of the dishwasher.
Anyway, like everyone else has said; thank you so much!!! A free tutorial for a free repair.
That’s a fantastic idea! Kudos for finding a shortcut. Good technicians make short work by removing only what is necessary!
Adding my name to the collection of happy campers who now have a working waterwall thanks to this video. My story, in case someone stumbles on this thread and needs more details. I moved into a house 2 years ago that has a dw80j7550us/aa (I believe this was the initial version). s/w version 7136 (which is odd, since 7134 is supposed to be initial). The dw never washed well, and one day I noticed a magnet in the bottom. I put my phone in a waterproof pouch and recorded what was going on inside. Found the waterwall never moved. Found all the posts about magnets, and realized the magnet I found was supposed to be attached to the vane. I positioned it there, and the water wall started working. It would move when starting the dw, but made a loud grinding sound when the waterwall cycle was running. I observed the waterwall cycle would run for one minute out of a 60 minute express wash cycle, which was not good. I tried blocking the waterwall motion with my hand and realized it was really easy to prevent it from moving. So, the waterwall will move when there is no spray hitting it (which happens at the start of the cycle, when the dw is testing it), but when spray is hitting it, it gets stuck, and the dw realizes it is not functional. So that's why I got only one minute of waterwall use out of the 60 minute wash cycle. I got a used motor on ebay, and tested it when it arrived. It too was easy to stop the motor when running (just held the shaft with my fingers while it was running -- I connected AC to the white plug connections). So, it was not going to be any better than the motor in my dw. I followed this video, but just used gorilla super glue (cyanoacrylate) to glue the white plastic disk to the white plastic drum) (instead of epoxy). Worked great! The motor could no longer be stopped with my fingers holding the shaft when running. I put the new motor in my dw and life is now grand. I now get 3 minutes of waterwall, alternating with 3 minutes of top wash. (I could probably have made the same repair to my original motor, rather than getting a new used one, but having an extra made things easier). Thanks so much!
Ok Matt,
I looked through all the comments and couldn't see where I posted anything before. I thought I got on here and said thanks before but I guess not. When I got my dishwasher there was no sticker on it saying what the model number was and I found out that they take the stickers off when the repairmen basically condemn the machines. I looked up your video and that's exactly what my problem was. The lady I bought it from wanted almost new price for it. (not really new price but expensive for not knowing what I was getting in to.) I talked her down some to a price we were both happy with and now I'm really happy that a 6 dollar tube of epoxy and a little bit of my time got it fixed. Thank you Thank you Thank you!!! I picked up another used one for my son and it's been awhile since I got around to looking at it but I am today and I hope its this simple.
Awesome! I’m glad this tip was able to help so many people
Dishwasher has been broken for a year, in the process of repairing it now. Watching your video over and over, let's pray this fixes it!
SRSpears I hope so! Good luck , let me know if it works!
This was a great video. Much appreciated! If anyone made the mistake of flipping the magnet (like me), the black and white wires on the left of the wire harness connector need to be swapped and the red and black wires on the right side of the connector need to be swapped. If you have never taken a connectorized wire out of a harness you just need a really small flat head screwdriver and you need to work it between the metal wire lug and the internal plastic hook. It can take a while and some wiggling but you shouldn't need to force anything out... It'll work itself out eventually. If you get too forceful the plastic hook may snap and your wire won't snap back in any longer.
Great Video! Just save my dishwasher, Samsung DW80M9550US. I also add some grease to it. After the whole things were done, the dishwasher still not working. I could not figure it out why until I poured a gallon of water into it. It suddenly works as before. Thank you so much; you are a genius!
This was very helpful. I had a motor exactly like this and after this video I pulled it apart, it was broken in exactly the same manner as demonstrated in this video. I tried fixing it but had a hard time getting the plastic rotor hub epoxied where I was comfortable with the result so I end up replacing the motor. However this video gives you a good chance of fixing your dishwasher for free. I was also impressed with just how flimsy and fragile this plastic part was. Samsung should use better parts.
Lots of thankful comments on here but I wanted to add mine to the many thanks you have already received. This is exactly what was wrong with my 3 yr old machine, I put a camera inside to watch and it did not move at all. Model DW80M9960US, little newer than the one in your video, but same ridiculous motor. No error code on mine, only problem I noticed was that the bottom dishes were still dirty! Thanks to you and your excellent video, not any more. Followed your instructions and fixed it, so a big THANK YOU Matt ! A few $ worth of epoxy instead of $100+ for a new motor that would most likely fail in the same way in a couple years.
It is sad that Samsung has decided that the way to fix this was to ignore the error code instead of installing a better motor. Bad design, bad engineering changes, bad customer service, shame on Samsung for this. After all these years and still the same crappy little motor failing in the same way.
It is a shame that the little motor is such a piece of junk. I do believe that Samsung chooses to keep it though because it lasts long enough. If they made a dishwasher to last for ever people wouldn’t need to buy a new one! I find most things are this way, unfortunately our economy is still geared to consuming disposable equipment, I hope one day things will swing toward higher quality.
Thank you for putting this video out. I stumbled onto it trying to find a way to diagnose the motor, mine never threw any codes, just wouldn't clean the bottom rack and arm would never return "home". Video made it easy to see what was wrong, and I actually trust the epoxy to last longer than a new motor would. Thank you again!
Great tutorial! Thank you very much for doing that. I just fixed mine using your instructions. And l have no technical knowledge or experience, really. I felt totally empowered to do and learn new things. Great stuff!
Matt, thank you! Your video saved me money and time, plus it made me look good in front of my wife. Our problem was exactly the same as yours. Your fix of using epoxy will guarantee that this problem will never happen again. Thanks Again!
Yet another fix thanks to this video. We picked our unit up from a curb a while back since I do my own appliance work, and I was expecting far worse until I found your video. Same exact break for me though I went about it a little bit differently. If you have fine enough vise grips, you can open those tabs enough for disassembly. All it takes to close them back down is a flat head screwdriver and a hammer. As said in other comments, you can also do the whole thing just by pulling that topmost stator plate and the rotor can be extracted from there. I also opted for a ca glue instead of epoxy given the surfaces I was dealing with. And a note from hindsight: definitely add proper grease to the gear train, it'll need it.
Thanks for making this video... I replaced the motor last year and now the new one is dead. My next step is to follow your video and hopefully that fixes it for good.
Holy smack, it actually worked! You’re kind of a genius for figuring this out, and for sharing it with all of us SamSuckers. So glad to be able add some more years to our dishwasher. I had to replace a convection fan motor in our Samsung oven, and the idler arm pulley in a friend’s Samsung dryer. We’re going with Whirlpool brands for our next appliances.
Ps. I put my GoPro in the dishwasher, and watched how the WaterWall arm battled (and lost) to the water jets. That’s when I knew for sure that it was the same motor-slip issue you were having. Fascinating!
Corey TrogMan good to hear!
1 addition: use sealant (kit or whatever) after reassembly to seal the lid of the motor. In case you get a water leak, it will at least not run into the motor.
Kudos Matt! Thanks a lot for your video.
my story ( hope it will help someone ):
my waterwall dishwasher ( DW60H9970 EU/GER Model) had a humming noise.
At first I suspected the drying fan (because it sounded like something hitting fan blades) but after running the dishwasher program it almost immediately started to humm which rules out the drying fan...
So disconnected the pump motor connection, ran another program, close the lid, and humm still there...
Last motor left is the waterwall actuator (thanks Murphey...) and indeed when running a program with this motor disconnected the humm was gone. Be aware there are 2 connectors; 1 for the motor (4p) and 1 for the magnetic switch (3p).
In my particular case the rubber seal around the motor leaked (after 4 years) causing water and diswash salt to corrode the motor, scraping the core against the coils.
I was able to disassemble according to your video and refurbished the motor + Gearbox )use plenty grease:-) ). Unfortunately the bottom coil was coroded into the housing pretty bad so my wires broke from the motor coil windings upon disassembly. Take good care of which color is located on what side of the coil!
After full disassembly I was able to scrape off some lacr from the copper leads and resolder the wires.
Carefully cleaned the seal surfaces of the part, rubber seal and inside the dishwasher, they all showed quite some salt deposition. Take care not to use any sharp objects, perpendicular scratches will cause leaks! I used a dishwash sponge and only clean / scrub the direction of the seal. Applied some vaseline on the seal and closed her up again. runs like a charm again.
be aware to power down before doing any actions!
You sir, are a hero for making this video. Had this exact problem and the fix went smoothly. Never would have figured this out on my own. The world needs more people like you. Thank you.
Anthony Chapman wow thank you! I’m glad this helped you!
Thank you very much Matt ,you made me save a lot of money and protect the environment because you save my dishwash from garbage ...
Mario St-gelais I’m so glad for you!
Hi Matt, I fixed mine, it had the exact issue you described and your fix solved it, I don't know how long it will last for but I really appreciate this video.
Thank you for making this video, it was EXACTLY what I needed to see to fix the very same problem with my Samsung Waterwall dishwasher. My unit is 4 years old and the warranty is expired, so spending $120+ on a new motor seemed excessive, but this fix cost me $5 in epoxy and a few hours of my time. And now it works like new! I like to consider myself an avid TH-cam DIYer, but without this video, I wouldn’t have been able to figure out that tiny crappy piece of plastic in the motor was the culprit. I typically don’t comment on videos, but when one helps me as much as this one did, I couldn’t not say so. Thanks again!
I'm so happy this helped you! Thanks for the reply! Cheers
Thanks a lot Matt, you have also saved us a fortune on only a 3 year old dishwasher. It would have cost us a spare kidney to repair this in New Zealand with a service call. I love the spot welds to fix it shut! One way trip.
Very helpful video. Fixed my 7E error on my DW80H9930US Samsung dishwasher. Thank you. Saved significant money. Really only the cost of 5min epoxy and time.
Thanks for the instructions Matt.. Yeah exactly same thing happened to our Samsung .. They are so low quality. Its like the 4th thing I have at to repair on it in the last 3 years.
Great video, fixed my problem! For the recent comments, I couldn't find a disassembly video but I had no issues removing the motor. The real pain was opening the motor, good luck with that.
Any suggestions on opening the motor?
I pried it open at the pinch points with a small screwdriver. I welded it back together bc it would not close by pinching the tabs back. Sorry, this wasn't helpful but rest assured it does fix the problem.
Thank you Matt! This worked perfectly and saved me a lot of money. Just finished repairing mine and works smoothly and quiet now.
Thank you Matt for this video. Your willingness to share is awesome! Saved me $120.
Getting to the motor is a pain ,but your were spot on with this fix.THANKS FOR POSTING👍
Great video Matt!!!, you sound like a very nice polite guy as well, worked perfect for me as well!!...Cheers!!!
Matt, thank you for an informative, detailed video. I wish the quality was a bit better, but I was still able to fix my sister's machine for the cost of epoxy and my time. Well worth it!!!
I got exactly the same problem with my motor. Your video enabled me to perform the motor repair otherwise, I would have just ordered a 150$ replacement motor. thanks a lot to have takes times to do your video!!
Thank you! I’m glad it helped
You are a legend. I had the exact same error 7E and it’s now resolved thanks to you!
Matt your video was really helpful!!! I had problems with the water wall arm... first was moving without stopping and afterwards stopped working at all... With your video I got the courage to fix the motor... (great video!!). Now the arm moves a bit... makes a lot of noices but I think is not working properly... in any case I want to congratulate you on this wonderful help you shared with all!!
Excellent video, many thanks. By showing how it goes back in at the end, you’ve also shown how to take it out. I epoxied the magnet in place and it works perfectly... no more grinding noises and 7E. Greetings from New Zealand
Awesome info, thank you. You make this world a better place. My unit does not clean the bottom rack. I thought this may be the problem, but the arm seems to move ok. The magnet story? Mine did not have a magnet installed. Possibly an assembly issue. I put one in, still no joy. I think this unit is basically junk, and it was not cheap, so I feel bad chucking it.
Thank you!!! repaired it and has lasted longer than any motor that was changed on the warranty.
Thank you so much for posting this. It worked like a charm and saved me hundreds of dollars. Only the cost of a new motor.
Matt your video was really helpful. My dishwasher is a couple years older than yours and has a slightly different waterwall spray arm assembly but looks like the exact same motor. The 7E errors started happening recently so I put a GoPro inside to see what was happening and found that the arm was actually moving back and forth but wasn't able to return all the way to "base" so after a couple of tries, the 7E would come up. Since the arm was moving, I didn't think the motor was broken at first but guessed that it was going bad maybe and the water pressure was too great for the arm to come all the way back to base... so I tried reducing the water flow out of the jets and that did help a little bit but eventually still got the 7E. I realize now how silly this design is to have a crappy plastic arm just moving back and forth just to deflect water upwards. Anyway, I pulled the motor out and found that the same problem you had so I did the epoxy trick and put it all back together but think I may have reversed something inside the motor because now the arm moves forward from base and doesn't stop when it reaches the front door. Instead I can hear clicking which I assume is the drive belt skipping or something similar. Pretty sure I put all the motor parts back together but I didn't pay attention to the magnet and I'm wondering if I had put it in upside down might cause this problem? I'm going to try switching the plug pins like you suggested to see if that fixes it.
Scott Simmons oh wow, that’s the first I heard it went backwards! For sure try swapping the polarity. Let me know if it works!
Actually it was my bad. Wasn’t a problem with the motor going in reverse. It was because I had to patch a break in the belt and put that belt assembly that carries the waterwall back in wrong. It’s working good now fortunately 🙂
This was the exact same problem with our Samsung DW80H9930US (2014). Me and my wife thank you for posting this video.
Hi Matt,
Thanks so much for posting this video and the clear explanation of the root issue. I had a similar model and the same problem and this really helped. I was really happy to be able to avoid an out-of-warrrenty service call but even more satisfied that this issue shouldn't occur again. I also replaced the magnet on the waterwall arm for good measure.
Another very satisfied viewer here Matt. Thanks heaps for your diagnosis and clear repair instructions. Worked a treat!
I’m glad to hear!
Thanks for the video, this fixed my dishwasher. You're a saint for walking us all through this. Cheers
Thank you Matt. You saved my to buy another dishwasher. Thank you and God bless you!!!
Thanks! This was the issue with mine....did similar repair but with less 5 min expoxy.....The purpose is to act like a "shear pin" Not sure how long it will last but just be mindful that anything hanging below or poking through the bottom rack may jam the water wall, causing the coupler to fail. Test running it right now
Very well done, you have the hands of a surgeon and the patients of Job. BRAVO
Just bought one of these used for $50 displaying this same error. Gonna give it a nice cleaning and give this a go. I'll report back, I hope its successful. Thanks for the video!
Hey guys, this is how I got the front of the water wall out of the washer. By this time you have disconnected the water and electric, and have the machine out in the room. Follow Matt's instructions to remove the rear portion of the water wall. Lay the machine on its back with the door facing up. There is an "L" shaped panel at the bottom of the machine held in place by 4 screws, remove them and the panel. It might have resistance as some of the insulation has adhered to the spray sound dampening material. Gently wiggle and pry the panel out. This will reveal a rubber plug with a center tethered by a loop. Pry the center out. What this piece does is solidify the plug so that the water wall (on the inside of the machine) will not come out. Once this little center plug is out, turn the machine upright and open the door. If you haven't removed the baskets and the top drawer, do so now. In the top basket, there is a small plastic clip retaining the basket. Using two small tools, gently press down on the top of the clip, while from the inside of the basket push the clip out. The top basket can now be slipped back and out of the ball bearing rails that allow it to slide in and out. Next you will want to remove the water pipe that runs up the back and to the roof of the washer. this is held in place by clips welded to the washer pry them open enough to allow the pipe to pop free. This pipe is fitted with an O ring at the base of the water wall assembly. If you can twist it and pull up it may separate. If not pull the pipe forward to where you can get the rear WW (water wall) assembly up and out of its 4 holes, and then pull the entire unit forward to snap the front of the WW off of the rubber mount freeing the entire assembly. Hope this helps! Hats off to Matt for the video. This was exactly what was wrong with my dishwasher!
Thanks for taking the time to post up this video.
I can confirm it worked on my Samsung Waterwall Model Number DW60H9950FW which we have had for around 4 or so years. This is the first problem it's given us with near daily use from a family of 5. I noticed when I first looked inside the dishwasher after the 7E error came up, and applied light pressure to the reflector bar, that I could move it back and forth manually quite easily. After following your fix, I can't move the reflector arm back and forth manually and it is working correctly again.
Thanks again, saved us a few hundred bucks for a repair guy, happy wife, happy life :)
This is amazing!
I knew nothing of dishwashers.
But following this video I was able to take it apart, remove the motor, disassemble the motor, fix it and put it all back together. And it worked!
Thank you so, so much!
P.S. Samsung is awful. Never again.
another problem I have found which triggers the same code is when the belt has worn some of the cogs off and it slips which will not allow the MOTION ASSEMBLY to move back and forth. You cant buy the belt separate. Great video. I wish they would start to build dishwashers with some real motors again. These motors they use now days are like what we used to have in our toy race cars and trains but with more plastic gears.
Good point, that would cause the same problem. I feel you on the quality of stuff these days. Back in the day %80 of what we paid went to the making of the product, now %70 goes to the marketing department. Sad how cheaply stuff is made.
Fixed mine right up. Was able to pull the magnet without disturbing the coils.
Can you share how you took the assembly out? Thanks
Thanks so much, Matt! Your video is fantastic. It was key to saving me from buying a whole new machine.
My also
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you. Really appreciate this video. You saved me and the Hubs from buying a new dishwasher.
Thanks from me also.....worked like a charm
I knew it had to be the motor but was stuck because it was under warranty. . of course parts not labor....samsung needed a tech to diagnose ...it's 120 just for that guy to show up....the repair company will take that off the fee to change the motor but can't tell me how much...So I washed dishes by hand for a cuple months until I found your fix...
Looks like you got 1 dislike must be the repair company I called ..lol
Thanks agian
Well done mate. I actually just replaced the motor and it I was $300 Canadian. The dishwasher it self was 8 or 9.hundred.
It’s 5 years old. If I had to pay a repair man it would have been $500 +.
Samsung should be Ashamed to charged this much for a $20 part.
I have 5 Samsung appliances in my kitchen that I spent a ton of cash on.
Luckily I bought extended warranty on the fridge because I’ve used it twice.
Microwave is doing goofing things now. Beeping in the middle of the night.
Sensor cook doesn’t work.
Stove is ok right now but I did have get the board replaced in warranty because of a bad display.
So if I were to do a multi thousand dollar purchase. I would stay away from Samsung.
Thankfully my phone is not Samsung.
I wish apple made appliances.
Thanks again didn’t know that it was in the comments how to remove the water wall just want to add few things before u remove the thing arm front and back if u feel it’s not smooth that’s because the moter is broken. To remove the moter take the back plastic off, unclip left and middle hose and a long screwdriver from the bottom will take the two screws of then pull out the moter (I hope this will help someone) thanks again for the great video.😀
Thank you so much for making this video!
For future references, my dishwasher model# is DW80M9550US.
The problem symptoms: the dishwasher would make 3 beeps and the lights on the handle would flash 3 times within the first 30sec-50sec of the cycle. And when I open the door, the time left display would keep flashing, but it doesn't show any error code.
However, after reading the service manual, I discovered that I have to enter the service mode to pull the codes,and found out the error code is 7C
I followed the diagnosis procedure in the service manual, the vane motor ohmed out just fine, the vane sensor voltage is correct, however was not able to figure out how to activate the vane motor.
Then I found this video, took the motor apart, found the same plastic piece broke off.
Nice work! I like to see people dig in and find solutions not problems!
Hi Richard, how did you get into the "service mode" to pull the codes? I can't find instructions on how to do that and I have the same model as you do. Thanks in advance
@@rubiconphoto I can't remember exactly how I did it, but here is the link to the service manual I used. It has all the info you need to make the repair.
www.manualslib.com/manual/1597233/Samsung-Dw80m9-Series.html#product-DW80M9550US/AA
Another satisfied customer. Thanks!
FYI - you can remove the motor without removing the water-wall assembly by accessing the motor through the rear panel, and the right-side panel (looking at the front of the dishwasher). You remove the hose clamp to push the hose out of the way, and then you have access via a short Philips #2 screwdriver to the two screws that hold the motor on. Place a paper towel down so that if you drop the screws they don't fall into the crevasses in the plastic bottom, as they are hard to fish out - especially as they are stainless = non-magnetic. And sadly, the cost of the motor is still roughly the same as the complete waterwall arm assembly :(
You saved me $120 on a new motor thank you......
Can’t thank you enough! This worked and saved me a bunch of money👍🏻
I fixed my Samsung DW60M9550US/EG this Sunday. Exactly the same issue. Thanks from Germany.
Hi, there are 2 holes under the dishwasher , they are in line with the motor screws and it is very easy to take off the motor without unmount nothing inside the dishwasher,
Chad
Great thanks, I just fixed my dishwasher by following your instructions.👍🙏
Good job Samsung! I’m taking mine back to lowes on Saturday and get a refund. Then I’m buying another Bosch. My last one worked for 13 years. Yours lasted 9 days🤣
Wow. That is crap
Thank you for your time and work to making this video-you saved me &250 minimum
This is a 120vac motor with forward and reverse windings and a permanent magnet rotor. The part that you are gluing together is a clutch intended to prevent the magnet from becoming demagnetized if the water wall is jammed and the rotor cannot spin. That is why there are indentations on the magnet and bumps on the plastic bits top and bottom.
This fix will work but just be aware that if the water wall is unable to move, either the motor will overwhelm the gear train somewhere along the line from the internal gears to the toothed belt and something will break or the motor will be jammed and the AC will demagnetize the rotor ending its life. There may be a software error generated that will stop this from happening but if Samsung designed it with a clutched motor then why would they have a software solution? My DW80H series did not throw any error code at any time.
That said unless Samsung has changed the design of the motor, you will be changing it again in the future when the same underdesigned 1 cent part picked by the accountant (not an engineer) fails.
Lawyers, accountants and "businessmen" are the only thing between you and a well engineered product. Jus sayin'.
Very much correct regarding the clutch. It would appear to me that it just gets weak over time, to the point where it just slips. Gluing it just buys us some time. Obviously, the clutch wasn't designed to be as rugged as what it's subjected to.
Hmmm, this is an interesting theory! Thank you for sharing it. I’ll post a comment when the dishwasher stops working.
It'll just skip teeth on the belt if that happens. Far easier repair than removing the motor.
Thanks a lot Matt! I had the exact same problem, and was able to resolve it by following the steps in your video.
Perfect assessment and resolution. This was exactly my issue. Thank you for posting.
Thanks Matt. I would love to see how you removed the water vane and it’s attached parts. Thanks
Thank you so much for this video, my Samsung dishwasher broke exactly the same spot. Almost seems intentionally made to break with that part being made from plastic. Anyways thank you for this video!!
Im so glad it helped you out!
excellent video! youtube needs more people like you!
You will also have to remove the little electrical box and feed the wires out of it. (two more screws)
Yep, same issue. Yep same fix. Thanks very much mate!
I did this. It worked perfectly. Thank you !!!
Hi Matt, When I put it back together, and tested, it moved fine. But when I run it through a cycle, water only seems to come out one side of the jets and the flapper doesn't seems to be moving the bottom tray of dishes were still dirty. When testing to see if it moves again, it did, the cycle and one side of the jets don't seem to work, same as the first attempt.
Matt can you post a video or even some tips on how to get the motor off? Did you remove the dishwasher out and invert it to get to the motor
You are the best!!!! Thank you thank you thank you!!!🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
please tell me what keys you input to do test direction testing after you fully assembled it. Thanks,
Awesome . Thanks for sharing. Just did the same repair to mine after watching your video
Just fixed this issue today. I had the dreaded 7E code. Washer would run for about 15 minutes and then stop. I replaced the motor assembly (about $115 from www.samsungparts.com/Default.aspx) and placed a rare earth magnet underneath the water wall carriage (the thing that translates the deflector back and forth). The magnetic force is strong enough to keep it in place during a wash cycle. I just completed a successful cycle.
Tip 1) To remove the lock ring, use a soft blow hammer and flat head screw driver. Lightly tap the screwdriver against one of the ridges on the lockring and it will effortlessly rotate. From a bird's eye view, rotate it clockwise to loosen and counter clockwise to tighten.
Tip 2) The tab to remove the middle tray is very easy to uninstall. Take a butter knife, press down lightly on the upper lip of the tab and push it outwards. Installing it is just as easy. Only light pressure is needed in both scenarios.
I took 3 hours to do this job. Would have been 2 hours if I figured out how to remove the lock ring with the hammer/flathead sooner.
Lastly, I noticed that my waterwall deflector is significantly harder to manually move back and forth with the new motor installed. With the old one, I could move it back and forth pretty easily. Just proof that the motor was is culprit.
Thank you Matt Rampone for putting this video together.
Hi. Ty! I had exactly the same issue. Working on fixing the motor same way you did. Ty for the video!
Great video! Thank you! Good God though, I hate my Samsung WaterWall dishwasher. What a POS. Finally giving up today though after the last straw. Gonna take advantage of President's Day sales. NO SAMSUNGS EVER AGAIN!!! Sheesh they suck. Super impressed you figured out your issues though! Good work.
Thanks my friend, this is actually working!! Well done!!
Thank you Matt! We have a DW80 model (2015) and it was having waterwall issue...finally the 7E error that can not be resolved (machine will run for 10-15 minutes then stop with the waterwall piece stops near the door). One note is the cover of the motor is not easy to remove..I ended up using a Dremel like tool to cut the metal flops (while trying to pry it open I cut my finger..ouch)...then used epoxy glue to keep the lid closed. Great instructions...dishwasher is now working again..hopefully for the next 3 or 4 years. During the repair/research I found out Sears.com is selling this part at discount .. www.sears.com/samsung-dd97-00216a-dishwasher-waterwall-spray-arm/p-A035049322 check it out!!
kai cheng wow that part from sears is a killer good price!
Unfortunately the price is at $139.00 now. Can find it for 100 on Amazon. What was the killer price??
Does the direction of the magnet matter when reinstalling during the motor rebuild?
This happened to me as well came to the same conclusion as you these are a designed failure point!. mine broke in exactly the same way as this when I took it apart.
How important is it to use a kokanee box for the Epoxy?
Ian Chernencoff, Very, you need it to get the right mind set!
@@mattrampone8457 glad to say that after sticking to the plan exactly and recovering from the hangover, my dishwasher is working again. We were supposed to drink all the beer first right?
Thank you so much! This worked perfectly.
Just did mine, thank you so much Matt
High quality content
I dont have an error code but the motor doesn't move through the wash cycle. It will seat home, start, and not move for about 10 minutes. It goes all the way to end and also stops and doesnt return for the duration of the cycle. Such a pain. Maintenance guy said I need a new rail but the rail seems fine. He actually didnt even out it back together. Heard it may be the magnet in the waterwall. Who knows...
It is possible that it needs a new rail, im not certain where the magnet is located on your model. Im assuming that there may be slightly different models, and that some may have slight hardware differences, if it looks like it is physically failing but the controller isnt seeing a problem to display a code, then you may need to determine why that is. I would take a close look. It is possible that the magnet (wich is probabbly molded inside some plastic) may be inside the track, and the trolly part be be broken away from it? Seems strange that there is no error indication from the dishwasher. Is it a different model that maybe just beeps a fault or blinks a light? Im not certain. Can you poke something into the door clip and try cycling on the power, then try to physically hold the water wall? You may be able to get a better feel if its a broken part in the track of if it feels like the motor is slipping. Give it a try.
Very interesting. I've got a dw80r9950. Not getting a code and the lower basket does seem to be getting clean, but I've found the water reflector laying loose several times. How tight is it supposed to snap onto the shuttle? Also, how did you get the bar to move with the door open to check movement? I see a screwdriver stuck in what I assume is an interlock switch. Hope you are still monitoring comments on this!
In the door there is a button behind the latch that is pressed when the door is closed. The water wall does seem a bit floppy, but remains clipped to a he shuttle. I’m not certain for sure how it works, but when the machine washes, it does the top and bottom independently. Maybe a valve or something. I would look at that
I went through all the steps, and I think I accidentally put in that coils upside down back into the motor. It feels much better when I turn the rod and you can feel the gears moving but I still get the error code now and also the additional problem is it won't fill up with water now.
This was super helpful, thanks a lot!
Do you happen to have a link to the video that has instructions on how to remove the motor? I cannot seem to find one
Inside of the machine at the back there are two gray square plastic covers on the water wall track. Pop out the covers with a small flathead screwdriver, then remove two #2 Phillips head screws. The water wall track slides forward (toward the door) and can be removed. The tube for the top drawer wash is removed by lightly prying back metal clips on the top and back of the inside of the washer. From there, pull out the washer after removing the screws at the top of the door securing the machine to the kitchen counter. The electrical connections are under the door on the right in a small junction box. If you go to the end of this video, it shows the installation of the motor and water connections. Reverse of that is removal of those connections. The molex connectors for the sensor and motor are made in a way that cannot be mixed up or reversed, so don't worry about that. Keep in mind the assembly line people throw these together with little training or expertise, so it has to be "dummy proof" (no offense to anyone implied).
Great video, mine had exactly the same problem and now fixed with the same solution :-) Thank you very much and Happy New year
Thank you! Happy new year to you too!
Thanks for doing this video. Very helpful.
Can you send me the link to that video showing how to take it out couldn't find it
The end of his video shows how everything was put back together... just a few lock rings it looks like. There are two screws to take off the water wall moving assembly itself, covered by two plastic plugs. Slide it forward, and remove the track