Why Use an MDF Workbench Top?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2022
- Chris Marshall discusses his hybrid workbench and some of the features that he's included. He speaks in-depth about the MDF workbench top, why he included it and what benefits having an MDF worksurface could bring to your workshop.
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retired furniture maker here. my bench top is a 1800mm x 1200mm x18mm mdf sheet, screwed down to a 25mm thick wooden base. its screwed down so it can be removed and replace easily if it gets to damaged. 20 years later i still haven't replaced it. its covered in stains now but still flat and i just scrape glue, finish off it to keep it flat. i pound on it to do chisel work and have never had a problem with bounce. though i usually keep the workpiece over a leg when doing that. as the top is so big its a work table, assembly table, finishing table etc. helps to keep things small with a limited space. benches like tools, can have a snob factor about them. when simply a bench is a tool. as long as it meets the needs of what you do who cares what it looks like or cost.
It's sunday night. After a hard weekend labour, I've just finish to build my workbench, and I'm looking videos about top surfaces.
Yours was very helpful, and you convinced me with your experience. Tomorrow, I will buy MDF to make the top surface.
Thank you !!!
Greetings from Patagonia, Argentina ! 🇦🇷
Finishing MDF: When I built my router table the top was made from 2 layers of 3/4" MDF that sits on a cabinet of 1/2" Baltic birch, built in 2021 before BB became scarce. To finish the top I rounded over the outside corners with a 1/8" radius bit and brushed on oil based gloss Varathane polyurethane diluted 50/50 with mineral spirits and continued adding that mixture until no more would soak in on the flat surfaces or edges. At that point I cut the thinner to 25% and sanded with 220 grit between coats, brushing on and sanding until a gloss developed, reducing the amount of thinner with each additional coat. After I got an even gloss i sanded again and sprayed on two coats of spray can oil based gloss Varathane. The oil based poly created a very hard, durable and slick router table top.
My very first bench, when I was a broke college student used super cheap particle board and 2x4s (and had a homemade vice), and it survived a surprising number of years, though eventually got demoted to an assembly bench. MDF would be much better. While my current work bench has a solid wood top, I think I might go this route if I ever make another bench. Just the stability of the dead flat MDF would be great. But I think I would screw the top layer to the bottom glued up layers so I could just replace it when and if needed.
Thanks for laying out the considerations for using MDF. You may get a few views from my clients who want to hear from someone other than me as to why they might want an MDF top for the workbench I build for them.
Thank you so much. As a complete beginner, it is absolutely intimidating to build a first completely straight, flat and thick benchtop. So many videos are against MDF tops. They even show you how to build a proper workbench and they build it... with their own perfectly crafted, fully equipped and sturdy 800lbs+ workbench. For a beginner like me, I am wasting so much time out of fear of building such workbench. I will just put a MDF benchtop on my empty workbench frame that's been sitting in my shed for the past 8 months.
Hi from an Australian Woodworker - One Handed Maker.
I had a 32mm MDF benchtop back in the 1980s and it was great to use.
Every time I had excess Shellac I gave it a coat which sealed it up over time.
Dead flay and inexpensive to replace.
Good video and advice thanks.
James
This is really wonderful and so inspiring! I will take this on this spring, cheers!
My first workbench and my outfeed table both use mdf layers as a top and it works great. It is a great option if you simply want build a bench so you can build furniture. For some the workbench is the furniture and the time and care it takes to build a traditional workbench is what makes it fun and it does look awesome after.
Its like you made this video specifically for me. I just finished building the frame and legs of my workbench and have been considering two layers of 3/4" MDF with a Formica laminate for the top. Plywood is so expensive right now especially BB so it seemed like the only real options but I was worried about the dog holes and water resistance. Will take a page out of your playbook and be sure to seal the bottom. Thanks for the content.
Good video and a nice looking bench. I am fortunate enough to have two benches in my shop. The first one I built was based on the New Yankee Workshop torsion box design and it’s made of 3/4” plywood with an mdf top. I could park my truck on it with no problem. It’s 20+ years old and still works and looks great. I also have a traditional woodworkers bench made of ash and a maple top that is 18+ years old. I use them both depending on the project. The mdf topped bench has a 2” overhang on 2 sides for easy clamping with bar clamps. I think most people would be happy with either style, MDF or Solid wood. And given todays lumber prices I would probably make the same decision you did!
Ron
Sir, much enjoyment hearing your presentation! You have my attention. Semper Fi
My work table top leaves something to be desired after many years of use and I have enough mdf to put 2 pieces of 3/4 inch directly on top of the old one after I do some serious sanding and I think you helped me to make the decision to do so with this video.
Thanks for the video Chris, your advise convinced me to built my workbench top with MDF though I added a laminate on top for durability.
Great info and insight, Chris.
Bill
Thanks for this. Really useful and very comprehensive.
Built mine twenty years ago very much like yours, I used two layers of mdf and a top sheet of 1/4 hard board still like new 😊. I just put lifting casters on this year.
Great video Chris, the points you make are 100% on point. I have used MDF with a 50/50 glue water mix for years for all kinds of jigs, it works a treat in humid tropic regions and temperate climates also. MDF may not be the best for our hobby, but is sure is good for flat surfaces you need to remain flat.
Cheers, Tony
Hello where can I get the plans and video for the MDF Workbench ?
Solid wood tops were traditional because there wasn't anything else to use. Now there is. Nuff said.
Bingo. Did Chris the presenter ever indicate where plans can be found?
30 years ago I made a 20 ft long work bench using laid flat 2x6s with 2x6 flat cross pieces underneath every 2ft. after the 2x6 top was made, I belt sanded the 2x6 top with rough 60 or 80 grit just to get the ridges off and make it all flat, then I glued 1/4" MDF over the top. The bench legs were simple 2x4 construction with diagonal cross bracing set 4 ft apart. It had shelving underneath. It was set against the wall of my shop, no wheels. That bench was rigid and flat and easy to clean. I didn't even put a finish on it. My ex wife inherited that one in the divorce. But, I never forgot it. It was strong cheap and easy to make and I could bolt down a vice and a grinder or whatever to it and not worry about it breaking. It was great for glue ups and making assembly jigs on. My shop floor wasn't exactly flat and level but I just simply shimmed the bottom of the bench legs to get it all on one level plain. It might be time to make another one.
Thanks for the video.. I like this solution. I'm going with it. How do you apply the poplar edge?
Nice video thanks, however if you have just one surface sealed the board will warp with changes in humidity. MDF does expand and contract with moisture.
Hold fasts will destroy those dog holes. I would think lateral clamping pressure against bench dogs would also damage the dog holes. Looks like a great bench with the weak spot being the dog holes.
Another option, specially if you use hammer set hold downs, is to just make the top layer of MDF and use a lesser grade of construction grade lumber underneath - if you are lucky enough to have a lumber mill that processes hardwoods nearby you should be able to get rough sawn hardwood that is not good enough for appearance grade for a lot less than retail. When the MDF top gets too beaten up you can just use a router to remove the MDF back to the glue line if you use a waterproof glue or soak the last bit off if you use Hide glue.
Great video.
I'm a complete novice at woodworking and purchased a workbench to have in the garage before realising I wanted to start woodworking.
The bench is made up of 4 x 3 inch lengths so is plenty strong, but.... the top isn't exactly level so unless I have the planed completely level it's not ideal as a base for putting projects together.
I'm wondering if adding a new layer on top of the planks would work and after watching this video, if gluing a half inch layer of MDF would be ok?
My benchtop is MDF as well for many of the reasons you stated.
I built the bench you designed and absolutely love it. I covered the MDF in several layers of clear shellac and have had no problems with any swelling or sticky glue. I reckon the bench will probably outlast me.
Similar story - 3 sheet MDF torsion box assembly table framed in maple, going on 25 years of heavy use. Zero regrets. If ever necessary, I will repeat. Be advised, at 4x6 it is one heavy beast, but exceedingly stable.
I tried benchdog holes through MDF, and it worked fine for a couple of months. But after that, my holdfasts stopped holding. MDF crushes in a way that hardwoods don't.
I'd never use MDF on a top I'd intended to use holdfasts.
I've always felt that it is more important to build beautiful things in your shop, rather than that you build things in a beautiful shop.
Great video and just what I was looking for! Except!...you never explained how you attached the sides? How did you frame it out?
Hi very well presented like always. I love your clips. How did you install the Vice to MDF. I understand you can not screw into MDF. Please advice Thanks.
Is there some kind of plastic or metal bushing we could use to secure the dog holes?
I'm a beginner and thought I'll make this as the first project. I subscribed to the mag and downloaded the article. My assumption was that since this is to build a workbench, most experienced folks would have one already and this would be written for a beginner. But the article definitely assumes some serious woodworking knowledge to follow, plus I don't have a planer! Also, for a beginner, it would have been great to know what to buy (length of 4x6 or 4x4 etc) and how to cut it for optimal cost. Would it be fair to assume that I have to buy 4x6's and not 4x4s and rip them as the width of everything seems to be 4"?
I've been looking for ideas for a new workbench. I want to make this. Unfortunately I can't find the plans or the July/August 2022 back issue at either Woodworker's Journal or Rockler. Would be happy to buy either.
It makes total sense. Maple and birch are very costly.
Love it
I am really interested by mdf top. I un my opinion they look great. But what about holdfast? Do the holes stand to it? I mean traditional holdfast not the veritas kind with a screw
In my tropical maritime climate MDF eventually swells up even if thoroughly painted and not directly exposed to water. I have special ordered some MR MDF to test.
My previous experience with Melamine faced MR MDF is a bit mixed, it doesn't seem to swell just from humidity like the starch bonded crap, but it will swell if actually wet at joins.
In the next few weeks I intend to make some MFT (Festool clone) type bench tops. I have Form ply, HMR Melamine faced chipboard (weetbix) and MR MDF in stock.
I intend on trying the weetbix I have already laminated for an outfeed table and most likely formply for the Radial Arm table refurbishment ( was originally MDF which swelled, sagged and warped despite thorough painting. If I give MR MDF a try it will be on an assembly bench, but I am still dubious.
In short standard starch glued weetbix and MDF are Northern Hemisphere products that fail miserably when the heat and humidity is around all year. MDF seems to be even worse than weetbix, it not only swells but is also sags, needing even more support than weetbix.
To me it is glorified blotting paper.
Mike Newman. I would use Medex over mr MDF. And Valchromat is another great choice it's a lot stiffer and resistant to sagging. Plus it has excellent moisture resistant. Not as good as Medex though. I'm currently working on a torsion box Paulk style bench top with black Valchromat as the top.
I like the mdf top. My current bench is laminated and post-tensioned pine stud material, but i think mdf would be more stable.
Legs are welded steel tube, with diagonal braces, and i have ballasted it via adding as many bricks as i can fit onto a low shelf. Stable and rigid as solid rock, great for chiselling joints, no holes in the floor for anchors, and easily moved when required.
All the fluffing around and cost with fancy joinery in timber legs makes no sense when steel and welders are both cheap and readily available. A bench is a tool. Fitness for purpose and cost are the benchmarks. Steel frames are quick, easy, rigid, stable with changes in humidity, and light in weight for moving....
Can you share what oil based varnish you used on the top and dog holes?
Just curious; can you chisel mortises into mdf to accept tenons from legs? And can the holes you drill into the mdf take hold fasts?
I'm a newbie to woodworking. Can you laminate layers of MDF and plywood to make a composite material that is both flat and strong (and less expensive than plywood alone)?
I'm headed to Harbor Freight to buy one.
Well done video discussion great idea using MDF you could even laminate real wood on top of that if you want that real wood look workbench! Quarter inch layer wouldn't hurt anything that you didn't even use flooring! Your bench should reflect your needs in the style of woodworking that you do. Doesn't have to be anything more than that!
Hi where can I find the instructions and plans for this work bench please?
I would apply a coat of WEST epoxy or similar to those dog holes. Should last a considerable amount of time. I am going to build my Roubo style bench from 2x4 and 2x6 with two layers of MDF on top.
Thin cyanoacrylate glue absorbs into all types of wood and hardens the material. I have used that to my Festool MFT/3 table where some holes see a lot of usage over the years and also use it to harden the edge of plywood like on my hand plane shooting board where the plane runs against the plywood edge.
We're can I buy the plane's for this
Does anybody use epoxy finish on MDF worktops?
I did similar but my very top layer is melamine. I don't ever cover and glue comes right off.
How did you attach the top to the base? You mentioned fasteners don't like mdf too much
Looks like he used lag bolts.
Do you think 4 sheets of 3/4 are stronger than 2 sheets of 1.5”? I see benefits to using both and the weight savings of the 3/4 would make the handling easier. But 2 of the 1.5 would be less glue up….
Couldnt you also repair any holes with a solid dowel and then re-drill them?
What about those big hold downs? I’m guessing you’d want to avoid those with MDF
I prefer to spend my budget and effort on the projects ON the bench not the bench itself. MDF is a great work surface, my bench gets a new top once in a while, takes me all of 45 minutes to swap out.
Rob Cosman is no longer recommending MDF. He has switched to Baltic Birch tops. Baltic Birch has skyrocketed here, and is very difficult to find. I wonder if 3 layers of MDF and a top layer of BB would suffice ?
He still uses MDF. It's what the Bench Brigade uses to make benches for the disabled veterans that come through his classes
MDF is the unsung hearo of the shop. Treated right, with some sort of varnish, paint or shellac make it more than tough enough for a daily driver. If you abuse your benches any top will wear badly. On mine I used 2 sheets but not glued. I use 1/2 screw inserts in 3/4 MDF spaced at 6x6 square from underneath. You don 't have to torque it hard, just enough to hold it down. Then, if the bad thing happens, out come the screws and a new top goes on.
Here is a thought experiment, as in I haven't done it myself, but think it might work and would like to hear what other think.
If the durability of the MDF around the bench dog holes, especially at the very surface of the benchtop where bending forces on the bench dogs would tend to put maximum stress on the edge of the holes and so potentially spall off bits of the MDF over time, I wonder if you could line the bench dog holes with something more durable.
One way would be to use a steel, aluminum or brass pipe/tubing with a 3/4" *ID* (standard for US bench dogs or 20 mm for the rest of the world). Drill the holes in the bench top equal to the *OD* of the pipe. Cut the pipe into lengths equal to the thickness of the bench top. Sand the top end of each piece of pipe to very smooth with a slight relief on the outer edge and a somewhat larger relief on the inner edge so there are no burrs or sharp edges to scratch the wood of projects. Then coat the pipe with glue and drive into the dog holes until flush. Then to make sure that the end of the pipe never marrs the wood of any project, I would tap it in just a little more so it is slightly recessed.
Then bench dogs will always be contacting the metal of the pipe, which will then spread any bending force from clamping against a dog across the entire thickness of the MDF top. This might be strong enough that you could use classic hold-downs that operate by put a lot of bending force on the dog hole to jam the stem of the hold-down. Of course the metal liner might not have enough friction with the stem of the hold-down to hold it in place.
I looked online and there are aluminum and steel pipes that have exactly 0.75" ID, but it might be a special order. Big Box Stores like Home Despot and Lowes have pipes that have a 3/4-ish ID. But maybe what they have is close enough. And searchers did pop up premade bench dog hole liners if you didn't want to go to the effort to make your own.
Good idea/bad idea?
When he mentioned that I had the exact same idea. Great minds think alike. I'm curious if anyone has tried that and if it worked well. Seems the best of both worlds to me.
Seems like it would work great. But by the time you buy all that and do all that, maybe one is just better off making a traditional wood top.
The only problem I see..... there's no sacrificial surface that can easily be removed and replaced through wear, slips, and "heavy use." I love this bench though. Engineered products will absolutely be more precise if well maintained.
52$ for 3/4 mdf. 72$ for 3/4 plywood. I think I’m going to do 2 layers of MDF .
Why don't you use some epoxy on top?
Mdf doesn't get the love it deserves.
'Does not expand or contract with changes in humidity'- sorry, just plain wrong. Not only does it do exactly that, but it does not fully return after drying out. There is clear documentation on this, look it up. What you do not get is differential expansion- there is no grain. Greater stability, however, comes from quality ply. My Baltic ply MDF style workbench is measurably more stable than my previous MDF one.
This is correct. MDF absolutely reacts to humidity changes.
that aint going nowhere
I subscribed to Woodworker‘s journal in good faith that I would be able to get premium access to plans and videos, unfortunately after paying my premium I noticed I was not able to get access to any of the content online. I have written to your customer satisfaction department on numerous occasions and the only response I get is an automated response to write to the customer service department. Extremely frustrating and I feel ripped off.
Hi Jeff,
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Will
Do