OMG Mr I really appreciate this video cuz I am a 41 woman who does all my car work and I am thankful that you saved me so much work it was done.in 2 hrs thank you so very much
Incredible amount of tips seasoned throughout. Love the tip on jacking one side. Without you I would have wasted time on a transmission fluid draining.
Thanks so much for an extremely well thought out repair with excellent camera work and narration. I was able to do my axles in just under 4 hours (with help from my son). On the driver's side I did have 2 cups of fluid come out (1/2 quart) which I replaced with new fluid. I also found that the brake line impeded access to the lower strut nut, so I had to remove the brake caliper and suspend it in order to complete the repair.
Thanks. I really appreciate the feedback. Not sure on the brake line, I don't recall having that issue but it's been a while, it's possible your brake line got bent a little during a prior repair or maybe it's an aftermarket replacement that doesn't fit quite the same.
I'm a diy guy... the extra tips like the divots is where to put the jack, and also putting the wheel under for extra safety were so awesome.... thank you for taking time to create this video and share. AWESOME info. Much appreciated.
Thanks for your video, I did mine today. Had a lot of trouble banging it out - ended up removing that bracket (the one with the heat shield) pulled out the entire axle. Then belted the cv out, lots of crusty rust. Went back in smooth. My car is RHD. Your vid helped a lot
This video is great. One thing I would add, it doesn’t take much to kink the brake lines. Its good practice to remove the caliper and the abs bolt first before doing the heavy stuff to avoid further damage. The angles in this video are superior to others, explanations were very clear.
Excellent Video. Clear step by step explanation of the procedure. The Camera work was first class with good lighting so that every stage could be clearly observed. Thanks very much and keep up the good work.
I love Matt's videos, well explained and is very clear when he does something. (Explains in Detail) I am surprised the weld is still intact, Mine is rusted right through.
Thx a million for that very nice video! Just did passenger side on our 08 Santa Fe after I realized lately that the outer boot was torn and had puked its grease all over the place. It was really easy, even when doing it in the driveway, at night, in a 31F temp. I would say the hardest part was to remove the 2 f***** of the heat shield. Man, do these are hard to reach!! I did not have to remove the sway bar link or to jack the other side to reconnect the knuckle to the shock strut. Just straightened the wheels and passed a small screwdriver through the holes to align them with one another. Somehow, the nuts on my car were facing forward (to the front). And although it felt wrong to me, I replaced them as they were. Then just watched your clip again to double check that I did everything right and just realized you discussed it. Too bad, too late. That will go to the wheel chance next spring. Thanks again!
That’s great to hear, thank you for the feedback. I can certainly identify with doing stuff in cold weather, no matter how hard I try to plan I end up working on things out in a snow bank every winter lol!
Your videos are the best. I really love the pacing, your thoroughness, attention to detail, and tips. I'm about to do a bunch of work on my 09's suspension. Watching your vids now to see what tools i need & know what to expect. Gonna follow right along with your videos during the work. Many thanks 👍🏻
Just wanted to say a huge thanks Matt, video helped a hell of a lot and was easy to follow. My CV ended up luckily being even easier as it came with the longer shaft so only needed to do the mounting brackets to remove. But a great video nonetheless. Cheers.
Thanks for the video Matt, I change both front axles in my 09 awd Santa fe with no problem, however I lose about 1 liter of oil in the driver side. Should I put new transmission oil or is it transfer case oil?
@lolazubi It should be transmission fluid, but it is best to check and confirm the actual transmission fluid level and fill accordingly. I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Oh, two questions. What grease did you place on the inner splines of the CV axle before sliding it into the differential? Second question, the hub washer, is it flat side in or out? Thanks. Love this video. On my fifth watch. Your walkthrough makes it easy to make my own checklist and notes.
I use Lucas red and tacky general purpose grease. That's not very fussy, any grease or anti-seize will work there just to keep it from seizing up for the next guy who has to take it apart. If you mean the big washer on the end of the axle, it should go with the flat side with the sharp edges facing down or in and the rounded edged smoother side facing out. Thanks, I really appreciate your comments and feedback.
Big THANKS Matt for the great video and detailed instruction. Going to do this repair with my Son on his 2009 Sante Fe tomorrow and You gave us the confidence to get it done. Love your videos and appreciate you taking time to help us out!
Excellent DIY video! Thanks! Doing my 08 Santa Fe in a few days. I always had trouble getting the inner cv to pop out of the tranny, especially on a XC90 4.4l v8. The air chisel will do nicely.
Great video! Where did you purchase your cv axles? I am replacing the passenger cv axle on my 2009 Santa Fe 2.7L FWD automatic. The cv axle from Autozone, O’Reillys, and Napa all slide off as they are metal on metal and won’t connect/seat when pushed in all the way. I put the old cv axle back on and it connects/seats properly. The three I purchased from Autozone, O’Reillys, and Napa have a different flange on the end that makes it hit metal on metal. I saw in your video that the cv axle you installed had the correct flange that I need. I went to the Hyundai dealership and they want $748 including tax for the correct cv axle I need that Autozone, O’Reillys, and Napa don’t have. Thank you for any help. I am currently putting it back together with the old cv axle.
You are slowly turning me into a mechanic. Will you please explain a little more about spray painting the bare metal. Are you talking about the ends of the axles?
Thanks Matt for the awesome video! I just literally changed out both the front cv axles on the wife's 2008 santa fe about 20 mins ago!!! Went very smooth!! Thanks again, A,
@@CarswithNash Hey Matt, quick question...I replaced my oem axles with the Cardone 66-3539 & 66-3540. I took it for a drive and the car seems to vibrate when I accelerate from a complete stop. It goes away amd than comes.back at about 60 km/hr. Did you have any issues after you replaced yours. I looked at the seat on the axles on the splines and everything is engaged and in place. I don't know what else it could be.
@@amrikjaswal76 Mine ran nice and smooth after but I used Auto Shack axles. If the vibration is new to you I would say you got a bad axle, unfortunately it’s not that uncommon when dealing with aftermarket and reman axle.
@@CarswithNash okay thank you....do you happen to have e the part numbers handy.....im looking on the auto shack website and can't seem to find them. Mine is a 2008 3.3. Awd
Great video only took me about 30 min to swap it helps if you can use the old axel as a slide hammer when removing and not having to remove that heat shield
great video! I recently changed both my CV's and after I got a vibration under load, which didn't happen before. that was with duralast branded CVs. changed those out for Import Direct CVs and still get a vibration under load around 50 mph. what brand do you recommend to use
My dad used to have one of these. I like the idea of the new Santa Cruz, they took a Santa Fe and cut the trunk off and made it into a 4 door transverse unibody pickup like a ford maverick.
Yes I noticed the Santa Cruz but the price is pretty healthy on those. I’m a little turned off of Hyundai after owning this one, lots of repairs in a very short time.
@@SteveStoltz Yeah dirt cheap or I guess if you planned on trading it back in before the warranty period was up it would be as good as any other new car with warranty. They just don’t age well! I sold mine off last week, took a bit of a loss but I’m just relieved to be out from under it.
Thank you for this well detailed video on the procedure . Any apprehension I had was completely eliminated by watching you do the swap in real time . Just waiting for the parts to arrive then time to get busy. Thanks again! Steve in Arizona
I need some help my axle slides in nicely but when I wiggle to see if it’s snapped into place. I can still pull it out. What am I doing wrong I have a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe.
@bobbyvenegas9844 Sometimes you gotta slam them in there pretty hard to get it to snap the ring into the groove. I have also had situations where the rings on aftermarket axles aren't well fitted and I have had to stretched them bigger or compress them smaller accordingly, to get them to fit properly.
Thanks for this great video! Would you recommend doing both sides or just one? One of my boots is broken sadly since longer and I did not see it earlier.... but only on the driver side. Do you think just doing one side will be enough first?
I always replace them in pairs, if one side is gone the other is not far behind. However it's totally up to you, I'm just betting you'll have to replace the other side shortly if you don't do it at the same time.
Was this a 3.3l V6? Is a wheel alignment necessary after? I hear that aftermarket axles are not as good as factory and sometimes you get weird vibrations with them. Is this true? I have a ripped outer CV boot. Is it better to just replace the CV boot?
@dwaynepiper3261 This was a 3.5, not sure if there is a difference on that. I have used lots of aftermarket, axles over the years and only once have I had a problem (avoid GSP brand), OEM Is normally the safer bet, but it is certainly not necessary to get a smooth axle. It's normally not worth replacing the boot, Lots of labor and then the axle fails a short time later, because normally there has already been dirt in it by the time you noticed.
@dwaynepiper3261 Not unless somebody has put an aftermarket camber bolt kit in it, it would have smaller bolts than with an offset lobe on them, these are the bolts that go through the strut into the spindle.
I have started changing the cv axels on my 2010 Santa Fe 3.5l v6 with 186,000km. The passenger side took 4 hours with multiple hammers, and an electric jack hammer, to get off. Now the drivers side will not budge. I have applied a ridiculous amount of force to it, rotated the wheels, and it still will not come out of the transmission. Any suggestions? Any idea on why that is?
I ran across this problem years ago on a PT cruiser, I actually made a video on it at the time and gave some tips in the video. I ended up cutting the boot apart and pulling the axle out and cleaning all the grease out of the stub end that goes into the transmission and then I took an angle grinder and cut a slot in the side that I could put a large prybar through so I could get insane leverage, still had to bounce on the end of a 3 foot bar for all I was worth! Good luck! Another thing keep rotating and trying from different angles because that snap ring in there floats around in the groove and it can grab differently in different positions due to the relief slot in it. Also make sure you are pushing the axle back in before each try that way the little bit of slack that is the snap ring groove will give you a bit more force and allow the snap ring to keep floating around and hopefully find a spot where it will release. In my case when I got the axle out it turned out to be an aftermarket axle with an ill fitting snap ring.
Thanks for the video Matt, done the driveshafts on my 2011 Santa Fe today, worked out really well following your instructions. Many thanks Tony from the UK.
Amazon, they are Auto Shack brand. Best to put in your exact year and model to be sure you’re getting the right parts. That’s why I don’t normally include part numbers in my videos because things can change year to year.
5:52 I’m replacing the passenger side axle on my 01 Santa Fe and there seems to be 3 bolts holding on a drip plate. They’re 12mm but really difficult to get any leverage to loosen them. This makes me wonder if they need to come out or if axle is already ready come out
This video was exactly what i was looking for. This is perfect quality and I can see what your doing step by step the camera isnt shaking all around like other peoples. And you really talk us through this. I do have a question so I have this same exact vehicle and im getting a clunking noise from the front passenger side I had this same sound before and I replaced the sway bar link ends and it fixed my problem but that was over a year and a half ago. Now this sound is back I was doing a oil change and noticed a lump of grease right under the cv boot but I cant see any visible tears or cracks and the boot looks fairly decent. My concern is do you think i should replace the cv? And or the sway bar links again? It does not sound like a strut clunk its more like when the car is at lower speeds and I hit a pothole or bump while turning I will get this clunking noise not sure what to do. And again thank you.
CV axles don’t normally clunk, they normally vibrate especially when you’re accelerating or going around a corner. If they are really bad you can hear them click a little when you change direction. Doesn’t sound like that is your issue. I would try jacking it up and pulling and pushing on things to see if you can get any movement anywhere. Are the struts original? If the struts are original and the sway bar end links wore out already I would think the struts are probably your problem.
@@CarswithNash Thanks for the reply thats what i thought was strange i didn't think that a cv would make a clunking sound but I wasnt sure. The struts are definitely original should i go ahead and replace both of them or is it okay just to do the one thats causing an issue?
@@nathantrotter6188 You definitely wanna replace the struts in pairs. I mean if you bought really cheap sway bar end links before it’s possible they wore out again already, but otherwise it’s likely the struts. I replaced the struts on mine around 97K miles.
@@CarswithNash alrighty ill give that a try i found your strut video my car is exactly the same and its at 130,000 miles so im gonna assume its the struts as well from what I've seen thanks again for the help.
I have santa fe ‘12 and am thinking about changing them myself but i am worried i might mess up something 😭 I’ve noises when driving on un even surface
Sounds like it’s pretty progressed or maybe you have a secondary issue. Either way you should get in there ASAP and deal with it, these things only get worse if you ignore them.
It shouldn’t unless it had a camber alignment kit installed, one of the spindle to strut bolts would have a cambed section on the head and also an alignment mark and special washer. If you do run across that, you can just scribe a line on it to get it back in the same spot.
You shouldn’t. If you do have camber bolts in your strut you may need to however but from new that is a fixed adjustment, sometimes people will put a camber adjustment kit in.
So sorry about that, but thank you for waiting! It is actually on my shortlist now, I’m thinking this winter I might put it in the bay and dig into it. I’m trying to be responsible and finish up projects I have already made a good start on. Plus keeping on top of daily driver maintenance and breakdowns. This silly Hyundai was supposed to give me more time to work on my projects by having a newer car in the fleet that wasn’t supposed to break down… but that didn’t work out so it got sold last week and I’m driving my custom Mercedes every day now.👌
I have had the issue before, the snap ring can jam up and I actually made an entire video on my struggle with one and my eventual success. Make sure you keep spinning the axle and trying from different sides, because the snap ring grabs better from one side than the other. th-cam.com/video/xsix3xo_xSo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jAmjaY2h1ZYxScbq
Great video, thanks Brother! Some videos alllow donoations. Does yours? And if so, I would like to make a donation to show my apprecation. Your video not only gave me the confidence to do the job, but also saved me both time and finance. Your efforts are sincerly appreciated!
@@CarswithNash Thanks. My 2008 is clunking very loudly when putting into D or R with foot on brake. Tranny shop says transfer case is worn out but there is a TSB from Hyundai regarding a washer needing to be put between shaft and hub to take up freeplay there.
@@notsofast5495 I know the drive couplers commonly fail on the transfer case but that would be something you would only notice when going into all wheel drive, just putting it in drive or reverse shouldn’t cause that to clunk. I can’t see what difference putting a washer in there would make, it torques up tight as it is, there isn’t any free play there.
@@CarswithNash since talking here with you I found a vid on YT showing this washer when a guy changes a hub on a Santa Fe. I wondered about it being tightened up anyways also but apparently the factory had a plastic washer there and later upgraded to a metal one. The TSB says to use the washer to address the Park to D or R clunk. Thanks
@@kool6975 There's a fill plug, on the front side of the transmission, there's a plastic cover, it sticks out from the front of the transmission, and it's in the top of that cover.
Be careful with your hands at 4:23 I lost a pinky because my finger was in the hole when the two pieces of metal separated. Spent the rest of the day in the hospital and on the road to recovery now with one less finger.
@@CarswithNashyep worst part is that it’s such a dumb easy little job but I was on vacation without my tools and unfamiliar environment and freak accidents are just part of life
Yeah and the torque spec is also for clean dry threads with factory plating in good condition and wheels that aren’t corroded in the mating surface… If I was torquing wheels on a brand new car I might consider doing it dry, otherwise they get some lube to make sure they actually get tight and the wheel doesn’t fall off.
@@deez4287 Read my above statement, don’t act so ignorant. This is common sense stuff, if you really think I’m wrong you shouldn’t be working on a car.
Great video! Where did you purchase your cv axles? I am replacing the passenger cv axle on my 2009 Santa Fe 2.7L FWD automatic. The cv axle from Autozone, O’Reillys, and Napa all slide off as they are metal on metal and won’t connect/seat when pushed in all the way. I put the old cv axle back on and it connects/seats properly. The three I purchased from Autozone, O’Reillys, and Napa have a different flange on the end that makes it hit metal on metal. I saw in your video that the cv axle you installed had the correct flange that I need. I went to the Hyundai dealership and they want $748 including tax for the correct cv axle I need that Autozone, O’Reillys, and Napa don’t have. Thank you for any help. I am currently putting it back together with the old cv axle.
OMG Mr I really appreciate this video cuz I am a 41 woman who does all my car work and I am thankful that you saved me so much work it was done.in 2 hrs thank you so very much
Thank you for taking the time to give feedback, it really means a lot. So happy to hear the video was helpful to you.
Thanks, brother. The turning the wheel to get out the axle is genius. Saved a ton of hassle disassembling everything like I saw in other videos.
Thanks. I really appreciate your feedback.
Incredible amount of tips seasoned throughout. Love the tip on jacking one side. Without you I would have wasted time on a transmission fluid draining.
Thanks so much for an extremely well thought out repair with excellent camera work and narration.
I was able to do my axles in just under 4 hours (with help from my son).
On the driver's side I did have 2 cups of fluid come out (1/2 quart) which I replaced with new fluid.
I also found that the brake line impeded access to the lower strut nut, so I had to remove the brake caliper and suspend it in order to complete the repair.
Thanks. I really appreciate the feedback. Not sure on the brake line, I don't recall having that issue but it's been a while, it's possible your brake line got bent a little during a prior repair or maybe it's an aftermarket replacement that doesn't fit quite the same.
You saved me a ton of guess work on several of your videos. Thank you for doing what you do. Huge appreciation.
Thanks. I appreciate your feedback.
I'm a diy guy... the extra tips like the divots is where to put the jack, and also putting the wheel under for extra safety were so awesome.... thank you for taking time to create this video and share. AWESOME info. Much appreciated.
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for your video, I did mine today. Had a lot of trouble banging it out - ended up removing that bracket (the one with the heat shield) pulled out the entire axle. Then belted the cv out, lots of crusty rust. Went back in smooth. My car is RHD. Your vid helped a lot
Great to hear. Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback.
This video is great. One thing I would add, it doesn’t take much to kink the brake lines. Its good practice to remove the caliper and the abs bolt first before doing the heavy stuff to avoid further damage. The angles in this video are superior to others, explanations were very clear.
Excellent Video. Clear step by step explanation of the procedure. The Camera work was first class with good lighting so that every stage could be clearly observed. Thanks very much and keep up the good work.
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback.
Super helpful video, very appreciated! Saved a bunch of headache doing it the second time around!
Thank you. I appreciate you taking the time to leave feedback.
I love Matt's videos, well explained and is very clear when he does something. (Explains in Detail) I am surprised the weld is still intact, Mine is rusted right through.
I always aim to make it so that even a beginner could follow the video and do the repair successfully. Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Thx a million for that very nice video! Just did passenger side on our 08 Santa Fe after I realized lately that the outer boot was torn and had puked its grease all over the place. It was really easy, even when doing it in the driveway, at night, in a 31F temp. I would say the hardest part was to remove the 2 f***** of the heat shield. Man, do these are hard to reach!! I did not have to remove the sway bar link or to jack the other side to reconnect the knuckle to the shock strut. Just straightened the wheels and passed a small screwdriver through the holes to align them with one another. Somehow, the nuts on my car were facing forward (to the front). And although it felt wrong to me, I replaced them as they were. Then just watched your clip again to double check that I did everything right and just realized you discussed it. Too bad, too late. That will go to the wheel chance next spring. Thanks again!
That’s great to hear, thank you for the feedback. I can certainly identify with doing stuff in cold weather, no matter how hard I try to plan I end up working on things out in a snow bank every winter lol!
Thanks for the video lol so easy i did it with the camera in my hand dudes a legend 😮
Your videos are the best. I really love the pacing, your thoroughness, attention to detail, and tips. I'm about to do a bunch of work on my 09's suspension. Watching your vids now to see what tools i need & know what to expect. Gonna follow right along with your videos during the work. Many thanks 👍🏻
So happy to hear that! Good luck with your repairs.
Just wanted to say a huge thanks Matt, video helped a hell of a lot and was easy to follow.
My CV ended up luckily being even easier as it came with the longer shaft so only needed to do the mounting brackets to remove.
But a great video nonetheless.
Cheers.
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for the video Matt, I change both front axles in my 09 awd Santa fe with no problem, however I lose about 1 liter of oil in the driver side. Should I put new transmission oil or is it transfer case oil?
@lolazubi It should be transmission fluid, but it is best to check and confirm the actual transmission fluid level and fill accordingly. I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Really appreciate your though row explanations and details such as torque specs and tool sizes are needed.....THANKS A BUNCH!!!!
Thank u so much for explaining better , I have a question though: how do you remove a seazed lower control bolt
Seized bolts I normally heat up with a MAPP gas torch and then put some penetrating oil on the threads and the heat will pull it in.
Oh, two questions. What grease did you place on the inner splines of the CV axle before sliding it into the differential? Second question, the hub washer, is it flat side in or out? Thanks. Love this video. On my fifth watch. Your walkthrough makes it easy to make my own checklist and notes.
I use Lucas red and tacky general purpose grease. That's not very fussy, any grease or anti-seize will work there just to keep it from seizing up for the next guy who has to take it apart. If you mean the big washer on the end of the axle, it should go with the flat side with the sharp edges facing down or in and the rounded edged smoother side facing out. Thanks, I really appreciate your comments and feedback.
Thank you Sir, best video I found! Watching you in Cleveland, Texas by the way!
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback.
@@CarswithNash New subscriber as well, keep up the good content.
Calm spirit while teach. GOD BLESS U!
Thank you!
Big THANKS Matt for the great video and detailed instruction. Going to do this repair with my Son on his 2009 Sante Fe tomorrow and You gave us the confidence to get it done. Love your videos and appreciate you taking time to help us out!
Thanks for the kind words, I hope the repair goes smoothly for you.
Great step by step good job...question the camber adjustment bolt is it not in the strut?
Excellent DIY video! Thanks! Doing my 08 Santa Fe in a few days. I always had trouble getting the inner cv to pop out of the tranny, especially on a XC90 4.4l v8. The air chisel will do nicely.
Yes, I can recall having a battle with one in a PT Cruiser once… Luckily these came out easy. Thanks for the kind words.
Great video! Where did you purchase your cv axles? I am replacing the passenger cv axle on my 2009 Santa Fe 2.7L FWD automatic. The cv axle from Autozone, O’Reillys, and Napa all slide off as they are metal on metal and won’t connect/seat when pushed in all the way. I put the old cv axle back on and it connects/seats properly. The three I purchased from Autozone, O’Reillys, and Napa have a different flange on the end that makes it hit metal on metal. I saw in your video that the cv axle you installed had the correct flange that I need. I went to the Hyundai dealership and they want $748 including tax for the correct cv axle I need that Autozone, O’Reillys, and Napa don’t have. Thank you for any help. I am currently putting it back together with the old cv axle.
Those were Autoshack brand axles I bought from Amazon. They fit and worked well for me.
That's a great, easy to understand video. Thank you!
Yes I'm having trouble with my cv axle so thank you for this video AWESOME!!!👍
Hope you were able to get it figured out. Thanks for the feedback.
You are slowly turning me into a mechanic. Will you please explain a little more about spray painting the bare metal. Are you talking about the ends of the axles?
Where ever they have bare metal, not the splines and stuff as that could cause an issue but just where it's exposed to the elements.
Awesome video, very well done. You explain everything perfectly. I don't expect to have any issues(haha) doing my daughters Santa Fe CV axle's
Thanks Matt for the awesome video!
I just literally changed out both the front cv axles on the wife's 2008 santa fe about 20 mins ago!!!
Went very smooth!!
Thanks again,
A,
That’s great to hear, thanks for the feedback.
@@CarswithNash Hey Matt, quick question...I replaced my oem axles with the Cardone 66-3539 & 66-3540. I took it for a drive and the car seems to vibrate when I accelerate from a complete stop. It goes away amd than comes.back at about 60 km/hr.
Did you have any issues after you replaced yours. I looked at the seat on the axles on the splines and everything is engaged and in place.
I don't know what else it could be.
@@amrikjaswal76 Mine ran nice and smooth after but I used Auto Shack axles. If the vibration is new to you I would say you got a bad axle, unfortunately it’s not that uncommon when dealing with aftermarket and reman axle.
@@CarswithNash okay thank you....do you happen to have e the part numbers handy.....im looking on the auto shack website and can't seem to find them. Mine is a 2008 3.3. Awd
It takes 3 bushings 2 inner one outer that made a big difference on mine and the ecs stop coming on so I would change those
Great video only took me about 30 min to swap it helps if you can use the old axel as a slide hammer when removing and not having to remove that heat shield
Great to hear you found the video helpful.
great video! I recently changed both my CV's and after I got a vibration under load, which didn't happen before. that was with duralast branded CVs. changed those out for Import Direct CVs and still get a vibration under load around 50 mph. what brand do you recommend to use
I've always had good luck with Trakmotive or of course Hyundai ones if you care to spend that much.
My dad used to have one of these. I like the idea of the new Santa Cruz, they took a Santa Fe and cut the trunk off and made it into a 4 door transverse unibody pickup like a ford maverick.
Yes I noticed the Santa Cruz but the price is pretty healthy on those. I’m a little turned off of Hyundai after owning this one, lots of repairs in a very short time.
@@CarswithNash yeah my dads had weird coil packs and only 3 plug wires even though it was a v6 , but it developed a misfire from spark leak
@@CarswithNash I hear you with Hyundai. I don't think I'll ever buy another one, unless its dirt cheap.
@@SteveStoltz Yeah dirt cheap or I guess if you planned on trading it back in before the warranty period was up it would be as good as any other new car with warranty. They just don’t age well! I sold mine off last week, took a bit of a loss but I’m just relieved to be out from under it.
Thank you for this well detailed video on the procedure . Any apprehension I had was completely eliminated by watching you do the swap in real time .
Just waiting for the parts to arrive then time to get busy.
Thanks again!
Steve in Arizona
Thanks, appreciate the feedback! Should be super easy for you in Arizona, likely you don’t have any rust at all to fight.
absolutely right ! if jacked up from the right side, it wont leak. Left , i had minimal leak.
I need some help my axle slides in nicely but when I wiggle to see if it’s snapped into place. I can still pull it out. What am I doing wrong I have a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe.
@bobbyvenegas9844 Sometimes you gotta slam them in there pretty hard to get it to snap the ring into the groove. I have also had situations where the rings on aftermarket axles aren't well fitted and I have had to stretched them bigger or compress them smaller accordingly, to get them to fit properly.
Hey Matt. Do these have a seal on the transmission side? I didn't hear you talk about it and I'm wondering if I should grab a new one or not
Yes they do, mine weren't leaking so I left them alone.
Hi! Well done on the movie !👍🏻What year santa fe is it you are worling on in the clip?
2011
Thanks for this great video! Would you recommend doing both sides or just one? One of my boots is broken sadly since longer and I did not see it earlier.... but only on the driver side. Do you think just doing one side will be enough first?
I always replace them in pairs, if one side is gone the other is not far behind. However it's totally up to you, I'm just betting you'll have to replace the other side shortly if you don't do it at the same time.
@@CarswithNash That's what I thought as well, but have found video were they only replace one side. Thanks Matt! Parts are ordered :)
Was this a 3.3l V6? Is a wheel alignment necessary after? I hear that aftermarket axles are not as good as factory and sometimes you get weird vibrations with them. Is this true? I have a ripped outer CV boot. Is it better to just replace the CV boot?
@dwaynepiper3261 This was a 3.5, not sure if there is a difference on that. I have used lots of aftermarket, axles over the years and only once have I had a problem (avoid GSP brand), OEM Is normally the safer bet, but it is certainly not necessary to get a smooth axle. It's normally not worth replacing the boot, Lots of labor and then the axle fails a short time later, because normally there has already been dirt in it by the time you noticed.
@@CarswithNashThank you for the quick response. Does a front end alignment need to be done after?
@dwaynepiper3261 Not unless somebody has put an aftermarket camber bolt kit in it, it would have smaller bolts than with an offset lobe on them, these are the bolts that go through the strut into the spindle.
I have started changing the cv axels on my 2010 Santa Fe 3.5l v6 with 186,000km. The passenger side took 4 hours with multiple hammers, and an electric jack hammer, to get off. Now the drivers side will not budge. I have applied a ridiculous amount of force to it, rotated the wheels, and it still will not come out of the transmission. Any suggestions? Any idea on why that is?
I ran across this problem years ago on a PT cruiser, I actually made a video on it at the time and gave some tips in the video. I ended up cutting the boot apart and pulling the axle out and cleaning all the grease out of the stub end that goes into the transmission and then I took an angle grinder and cut a slot in the side that I could put a large prybar through so I could get insane leverage, still had to bounce on the end of a 3 foot bar for all I was worth! Good luck! Another thing keep rotating and trying from different angles because that snap ring in there floats around in the groove and it can grab differently in different positions due to the relief slot in it. Also make sure you are pushing the axle back in before each try that way the little bit of slack that is the snap ring groove will give you a bit more force and allow the snap ring to keep floating around and hopefully find a spot where it will release. In my case when I got the axle out it turned out to be an aftermarket axle with an ill fitting snap ring.
Hey Matt! Great video! is there a rolling bearing there where the axle shaft was removed (left side)? 12:46
There’s a bearing internally within the transmission that the axle slides through and rides in.
Thank you very much. Is it automatic or manual transmission? I have heard the driveshaft gear side is more complicated with automatic transmission ?
This is an automatic, it’s a pretty easy replacement actually.
Thank you so much for the details Video.
No problem and thank you for the feedback, I always appreciate that.
Thanks for the video Matt, done the driveshafts on my 2011 Santa Fe today, worked out really well following your instructions.
Many thanks Tony from the UK.
Great to hear, thanks for the feedback!
Great video, where did you get your parts from? Part numbers?
Amazon, they are Auto Shack brand. Best to put in your exact year and model to be sure you’re getting the right parts. That’s why I don’t normally include part numbers in my videos because things can change year to year.
Good job on the video. Thanks for the tip on tilting the car so trans fluid doesn't leak from drivers side.
5:52 I’m replacing the passenger side axle on my 01 Santa Fe and there seems to be 3 bolts holding on a drip plate. They’re 12mm but really difficult to get any leverage to loosen them. This makes me wonder if they need to come out or if axle is already ready come out
Sorry I couldn't tell you, that's a different generation of Santa Fe and probably has quite a few differences from this one in the video.
@@CarswithNash no worries, thanks for responding. I decided to just go out and yank the axle without removing any other bolts. It popped off!
What about getting the strut aligned in the knuckle correctly to keep front end aligned?
Unless it has a camber bolt kit, there is no adjustment there.
This video was exactly what i was looking for. This is perfect quality and I can see what your doing step by step the camera isnt shaking all around like other peoples. And you really talk us through this. I do have a question so I have this same exact vehicle and im getting a clunking noise from the front passenger side I had this same sound before and I replaced the sway bar link ends and it fixed my problem but that was over a year and a half ago. Now this sound is back I was doing a oil change and noticed a lump of grease right under the cv boot but I cant see any visible tears or cracks and the boot looks fairly decent. My concern is do you think i should replace the cv? And or the sway bar links again? It does not sound like a strut clunk its more like when the car is at lower speeds and I hit a pothole or bump while turning I will get this clunking noise not sure what to do. And again thank you.
CV axles don’t normally clunk, they normally vibrate especially when you’re accelerating or going around a corner. If they are really bad you can hear them click a little when you change direction. Doesn’t sound like that is your issue. I would try jacking it up and pulling and pushing on things to see if you can get any movement anywhere. Are the struts original? If the struts are original and the sway bar end links wore out already I would think the struts are probably your problem.
@@CarswithNash Thanks for the reply thats what i thought was strange i didn't think that a cv would make a clunking sound but I wasnt sure. The struts are definitely original should i go ahead and replace both of them or is it okay just to do the one thats causing an issue?
@@nathantrotter6188 You definitely wanna replace the struts in pairs. I mean if you bought really cheap sway bar end links before it’s possible they wore out again already, but otherwise it’s likely the struts. I replaced the struts on mine around 97K miles.
@@CarswithNash alrighty ill give that a try i found your strut video my car is exactly the same and its at 130,000 miles so im gonna assume its the struts as well from what I've seen thanks again for the help.
I have santa fe ‘12 and am thinking about changing them myself but i am worried i might mess up something 😭 I’ve noises when driving on un even surface
Sounds like it’s pretty progressed or maybe you have a secondary issue. Either way you should get in there ASAP and deal with it, these things only get worse if you ignore them.
Thank you very much Matt. Definitely help a lot. 👍
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback.
Mate you help too much just thank you 💪🏻👌🏻
Good, I see you got this done....yeah!
Editing the video turned out to be the hard part since my computer crashed and lost the entire video and I had to re-edit the whole thing!🤦♂️
What type of grease? Any high temp grease?
Yeah I normally use the Lucas red and sticky, but almost any quality grease will work.
Fantastic job, thank you for sharing!
Thank you for commenting.
Thanks so much Matt really helpful
Great to hear. I appreciate the feedback.
Thank you a lot .very educative
Does it need alignment now
It shouldn’t unless it had a camber alignment kit installed, one of the spindle to strut bolts would have a cambed section on the head and also an alignment mark and special washer. If you do run across that, you can just scribe a line on it to get it back in the same spot.
A very informative video!
@@bvirgin123456 Thanks!
Do I need an alignment after this
You shouldn’t. If you do have camber bolts in your strut you may need to however but from new that is a fixed adjustment, sometimes people will put a camber adjustment kit in.
you must start doing something to that model T and Petter engine. I have been wafting so long.
So sorry about that, but thank you for waiting! It is actually on my shortlist now, I’m thinking this winter I might put it in the bay and dig into it. I’m trying to be responsible and finish up projects I have already made a good start on. Plus keeping on top of daily driver maintenance and breakdowns. This silly Hyundai was supposed to give me more time to work on my projects by having a newer car in the fleet that wasn’t supposed to break down… but that didn’t work out so it got sold last week and I’m driving my custom Mercedes every day now.👌
Nicely done!
Thanks!(-:
Still struggling to get mine out trying pressure from ratchet strap and air hammer and. Nothing
I have had the issue before, the snap ring can jam up and I actually made an entire video on my struggle with one and my eventual success. Make sure you keep spinning the axle and trying from different sides, because the snap ring grabs better from one side than the other. th-cam.com/video/xsix3xo_xSo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jAmjaY2h1ZYxScbq
Thanks for another informative video
Thanks for commenting!(-:
Great video. Thankyou
Thanks for the video 👏
Thank you for the feedback.
Great video, thanks Brother! Some videos alllow donoations. Does yours? And if so, I would like to make a donation to show my apprecation. Your video not only gave me the confidence to do the job, but also saved me both time and finance. Your efforts are sincerly appreciated!
@jr675 You're welcome to buy a super thanks, I definitely appreciate that.
no washer between axle shaft and back of hub?
Nope, I have never seen that on any application actually. The end of the axle is machined to fit perfectly against the back of the hub.
@@CarswithNash
Thanks. My 2008 is clunking very loudly when putting into D or R with foot on brake. Tranny shop says transfer case is worn out but there is a TSB from Hyundai regarding a washer needing to be put between shaft and hub to take up freeplay there.
@@notsofast5495 I know the drive couplers commonly fail on the transfer case but that would be something you would only notice when going into all wheel drive, just putting it in drive or reverse shouldn’t cause that to clunk. I can’t see what difference putting a washer in there would make, it torques up tight as it is, there isn’t any free play there.
@@CarswithNash since talking here with you I found a vid on YT showing this washer when a guy changes a hub on a Santa Fe.
I wondered about it being tightened up anyways also but apparently the factory had a plastic washer there and later upgraded to a metal one. The TSB says to use the washer to address the Park to D or R clunk.
Thanks
@@CarswithNash maybe the excess freeplay is actually in the joints themselves. When you add the washer it compresses the shaft slightly when tight
If you lose fluid where is the fill point?
@@kool6975 There's a fill plug, on the front side of the transmission, there's a plastic cover, it sticks out from the front of the transmission, and it's in the top of that cover.
Thank you so much!
Well done 💯🙏
Mine vibrates qhile acceleration
U know why?
That is a common symptom of CV axle failure.
@Matt's Garage
Both sides are brand new
Before didn't vibrate
@@salblancas Sounds like you got faulty parts. What brand did you buy?
Thanks for sharing 👍
thanks mate
well explained !
Thanks, that’s what I like to hear.
TY
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Be careful with your hands at 4:23 I lost a pinky because my finger was in the hole when the two pieces of metal separated. Spent the rest of the day in the hospital and on the road to recovery now with one less finger.
So sorry to hear that. I will try to be more careful next time. Thanks for the tip.
@@CarswithNashyep worst part is that it’s such a dumb easy little job but I was on vacation without my tools and unfamiliar environment and freak accidents are just part of life
Mine was so seized it wouldn't even budge, gonna take it to a mechanic now 😢
@hashaam250 Yeah everything was always rusted on mine too. Sorry to here.
You aren't supposed to lube your lug nuts. The torque spec is for dry clean threads.
Yeah and the torque spec is also for clean dry threads with factory plating in good condition and wheels that aren’t corroded in the mating surface… If I was torquing wheels on a brand new car I might consider doing it dry, otherwise they get some lube to make sure they actually get tight and the wheel doesn’t fall off.
I thought the same thing. Dude must not have shit for experience.
@@deez4287 Read my above statement, don’t act so ignorant. This is common sense stuff, if you really think I’m wrong you shouldn’t be working on a car.
200k + on mine lol 😂
Well done!👍
Matt you don't show you removing passenger hub end of axle
Great video! Where did you purchase your cv axles? I am replacing the passenger cv axle on my 2009 Santa Fe 2.7L FWD automatic. The cv axle from Autozone, O’Reillys, and Napa all slide off as they are metal on metal and won’t connect/seat when pushed in all the way. I put the old cv axle back on and it connects/seats properly. The three I purchased from Autozone, O’Reillys, and Napa have a different flange on the end that makes it hit metal on metal. I saw in your video that the cv axle you installed had the correct flange that I need. I went to the Hyundai dealership and they want $748 including tax for the correct cv axle I need that Autozone, O’Reillys, and Napa don’t have. Thank you for any help. I am currently putting it back together with the old cv axle.